lip;
V N
:
M'M:
A WEDDING BREAKFAST TABLE.
THE
ENCYCLOPAEDIA
OF
A Complete Dictionary of ill pertainins to the Art of
Cookery and Table Seryice.
ILLUSTRATED with COLOURED PLATES and ENGRAVINGS, by HAROLD FURNISS,
GEORGE CRUIKSHANK, IV. MUNN ANDREW , and others.
EDITED BY
THEODORE FRANCIS GARRETT,
Author of “ The Chef's Memoranda ,” “ Plain and Artistic Cookery! “ Little-known Foods," “ Ice and Ice-Making ,” “ The
Manufacture of British Wines, tFc.f “ Ball Suppers and their Service," “ Wine Adulteration ,” “ Savoury Suppers
'‘'‘Muffins and Crumpets ,” “ Sandwiches ,” “ American Drinks ,” “ Confectionery! “ Notes on Curries
“ Loving-Cups “ Antiquity of Cheese ,” “ Good Coffee ,” “ Lives of Famous Cooks," and numerous
other Serial and Special Papers in Technical and Domestic Publications.
Assisted by WILLIAM A. RAWSON (Cook and Confectioner to Messrs. Ring and Brymer, Caterers for City of London
and other Banquets ; Sec. of the Original U.F. Society of Cooks and Confectioners) ;
And , in Special Departments, by the following and other distinguished CHEFS DE CUISINE
and CONFECTIONERS:
C. J. Corblet, Chef de Cuisine, Bute House, W. ; Grand
Diploma of Honour; ist Grand Prize, 1887; 1st Gold
Medal of ist Class, 1885.
J. Detraz, Chef de Cuisine, Hotel Metropole, London.
J. Fiorillo, Chef de Cuisine, late of Hotel Victoria,
London ; Grand Prix d’Honneur, Paris, 1889 , ist
Prize, Gold Medal, 1885 ; Champion Silver Medal,
1885 ; ist Prize, Gold Medal, 1888 ; ist Prize, Gold
Medal, 1889.
G. Heywood, Chef de Cuisine, and President of the
Original U.F. Society of Cooks and Confectioners.
C. Norwak, Confectioner, Gold and Silver Medallist in
Sugar-Flowers and Piping, London, 1889.
L. Lecomte, Chef de Cuisine to Lord Harewood ; Silver
Medal, Exposition Culinaire Internationale, London, 1885 ;
Diploma of Honour, Grand Prize, and Gold Medal, Expo-
sition Culinaire Internationale, London, 1887.
C. Reichert, Confectioner to Messrs. W. and G. Buszard.
A. Thoumire, Chef de Cuisme to Sir Julian Goldsmid ;
Silver Medal for Turtle Dinner of 13 Dishes, Universal
Cookery and Food Exhibition, 1889 ; Bronze Medal
for Menu Design, 1889; and Vermillion Medal, Expo-
sition Culinaire, 1887.
T. Wallace, Chef de Cuisine, Great Eastern Hotel, London.
C. WlLLlN, Chef de Cuisme, late of the Grand Hotel
Bristol ; ist Prize in Open Turtle Competition.
Division V. — Mus to Pin.
LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL.
Sole Agent: A. W. COWAN, 30 and 31, NEW BRIDGE STREET, LONDON, E.C.
LONDON :
A. BRADLEY, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, DRURY LANE, W.C.
L.HVr KiifY
LIBRARY
LEEDS
L-X
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
961
Mushrooms— continued.
the pan on the fire and cook the contents, stirring con-
tinually to prevent it getting lumpy; add the yolks of
two eggs to thicken, and mix in toz. of butter. When
thoroughly mixed and of the required consistence, put it
in a dish, and serve hot.
Mushrooms in Cases. — Peel and chop about two dozen
large Mushrooms, mix with them 1 table-spoonful of
chopped parsley and a small quantity of finely-chopped
shallot (the latter ingredient may be omitted if not desired),
and season to taste with salt and pepper. Butter the
interior of ten or twelve small paper cases, till them with
the Mushroom mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. When
cooked, stand the cases on a hot dish over which has
been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper,
garnish with a few sprigs of parsley, and serve very hot.
Mushroom Cream Soup. — Carefully wash and peel lqt. of
fresh Mushrooms, put them into lqt. of boiling water, and
boil until tender enough to nib through a sieve ; stir
them into 2qts. of cream soup made as follows : Put into a
large saucepan 2 table-spoonfuls each of butter and Hour,
and mix together until they begin to bubble ; then gradu-
ally stir in lqt. each of hot milk and boiling water, a
teacupful at a time, and mixing the one quantity in
smoothly before adding more. When all the milk and
water have been used, season the soup to taste with salt,
pepper, and grated nutmeg, stir into it the puree or pulp
of Mushrooms, let it boil once, and then serve.
Mushrooms with Eggs.^(l) Break four eggs into a sauce-
pan, and add 2 iz. of warmed butter, 1 table-spoonful of
chopped Mushrooms, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and b salt-
spoonful of pepper. Put the pan over a clear fire and stir
continually until quite thick. Have ready some pieces of
hot buttered toast, put them on a dish, pour over the
mixture, and serve very hot.
(2) Peel lib. of Mushrooms, and put them into a sauce-
pan with 2 table- spoonfuls of Mushroom ketchup, 3oz. of
butter, one onion chopped small, a little grated nutmeg, 1
table spoonful of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. •
Put the pan over the fire, cover it, stew the contents gently 1
for twenty minutes, and add the yolks of two eggs to
thicken, taking care not to let the mixture boil after they
are added or it will curdle and spoil. Put a border of
mashed potatoes round a dish, pour some of the sauce in the
centre, pile the Mushrooms up in a heap, and decorate them
with two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Pour over the re-
mainder of the sauce, and serve.
Mushroom Garnishing. — Mince finely twelve Mushrooms 1
and place them in a saucepan with b pint of Madeira
sauce. Cook for five minutes, and it is ready for use.
Mushroom Ketchup. — (1) Break up the required quantity of
Mushrooms, put them in a tub, strew salt (allowing |lb.
for every 71b. of Mushrooms) over them, and leave for two
or three days. Afterwards press the Mushrooms to extract
all their juice, which strain into a large saucepan; for
every pint put in loz. of salt, h teaspoonful of pepper-
corns, six cloves, and ;\oz. of ginger. When boiling, move
the ketchup to the side of the fire and let it simmer gently
for an-hour-and-a-half. When ready, strain through a fine
sieve, leave it until cold, then pour it into bottles ; cork
tightly, and stow them away in a dry store-cupboard.
(2) Procure freshly-gathered Mushrooms, pick them over
carefully to see that they are clean, but do not wash them,
and put them in layers in a deep pan with plenty of salt
between each layer. Stand the pan in a warm place or
over a rather cool stove, and keep it covered. Leave the
Mushrooms for three or four days, pressing and mashing
them well every day with a wooden spoon. When quite
soft and well mashed, place the Mushrooms and juice into
a large stone or earthenware jar, and put in for each 2qts.,
loz. each of allspice and whole pepper. Cover the jar closely,
put it into a saucepan with boiling water to reach almost
up to the top of the jar, and boil for two-hours-and-a-half,
adding more boiling water as the quantity becomes dimin-
ished. At the end of that time, take the jar out of the
water, and strain the juice through a fine hair sieve, being
very careful not to disturb the sediment. Pour the ketchup
Mushrooms — continued.
into a clean stewpan, and boil it slowly for an hour,
removing all the scum as it rises. Next pour it into a
jug, cover, stand it in a cool place, and leave for twenty -
four hours. Strain the ketchup through flannel, return it
to the jug, and for every quart mix in b table-spoonful of
brandy. Let the ketchup stand to see if any more sedi-
ment settles, then strain it again, pour it into small bottles,
and keep them tightly corked.
(3) The Mushrooms are always best when gathered first
thing in the morning before the sun is on them ; pick over
carefully to see that they are clean, as they must not be
washed, break them into pieces, and lay them on a dish ;
strew over plenty of salt and leave for three or four days
in a warm temperature, turning often, and occasionally
adding a small quantity of salt. At the end of that time,
turn the Mushrooms on to a fine silk sieve with a basin
underneath, and leave them until all the juice has inn
through. Pour this juice into a stewpan with plenty of
spices, and place it over a slow fire. Beat the whites of
tivo eggs, and when the juice boils stir them in. Boil it
for a minute, then strain it through muslin into a basin.
When quite cold, pour the ketchup into small bottles, cork
tightly, and keep them for use in a dry store-cupboard.
(4) Break the Mushrooms into small pieces, put them in
a large earthenware jar, strew over plenty of salt, and leave
for a week or ten days, stirring well every day ; after-
wards leave them without stirring until a thick scum
rises to the top, when strain oft' the liquor into a sauce-
pan. Tie up in a muslin bag a moderate quantity of
ginger, mace, cloves, peppercorns, and mustard-seed, put
it in the liquor, and boil until well flavoured with the
spices. When cold, put the ketchup into a bottle with
the muslin bag containing the splices, cork it, and leave
for tvro months. At the end of that time, boil it up
again with the spices, then strain through muslin, and
bottle it for use.
(5) Take some large full-grown Mushrooms. Put a layer
of them at the bottom of a deep earthenware pan,
sprinkle with salt, then add another layer of Mushrooms
and a sprinkling of salt, and so on till all the Mush-
rooms are in the pan. Let them stand for three hours, by
which time the salt ought to have made the Mushrooms
easy to break, then pound them in a mortar or mash
them well with the hands, and leave for two days (not
longer), mashing and stirring well each day ; pour
them into a large stone jar, measure by lifting them out
of the jar, with a pint or quart measure, and to each
quart add ^oz. of allspice and l^oz. of whole black pepipier ;
cover the jar very closely, set it in a pan of boiling water,
and keep) the water boiling for over two hours. Then
let the juice drain through a hair sieve into a clean
stewpan, without squeezing or pressing the Mushrooms,
and boil very slowly, skimming well, till reduced to one half;
then pour it into a clean dry jug, cover closely, and let it
stand all night in a cool pflace. Next day pour it oil' as
gently as possible so as not to disturb the sediment, strain
it through a thick flannel bag till perfectly clear, and
add for every pint 1 table-spoonful of good brandy ; put
it again into a clean dry jug and leave all night closely
covered. Next day a sediment will again have settled,
and the ketchup must then be very gently poured off
so as not to disturb it. Bottle in pint or half-pint bottles
which have been rinsed with brandy or other spirit, being
very careful to cork well and seal them air-tight. If
badly corked or kept in a damp place the ketchup will
soon spioil, but if properly kepit it improves. It should be
examined from time to time, pflacing a strong light behind
the neck of the bottle ; if there is any appearance of film
forming in it boil it again with some more whole black
pepipier.
Mushroom Omelet. — (1) Either fresh or canned Mushrooms
may lie used for this. Heat 1 table-spoonful of chopped
canned Mushrooms in enough white sauce to moisten
them ; or clean three fresh Mushrooms of medium size
and fry them in jrst enough butter to prevent burning,
seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. While the Mush-
rooms are being heated beat three whole eggs for half
a minute together with 1 teaspoonful of salt and very little
4 A
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, < be., referred to, see under their special heads.
962
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mushrooms — continued.
pepper. Put a frying-pan over the fire, with 1 teaspoonful
of butter; when the butter begins to brown pour in the
beaten eggs, and as soon as they set upon the bottom of
the pan break the omelet a little with a fork occasion-
ally to allow the uncooked portion of the egg to reach
the-pan, but do pot break the outer edge of the omelet,
and do not stir it all together like scrambled eggs. When
the omelet is cooked' to the desired degree, put the Mush-
rooms on one half, and fold the other half over by lifting
with a broad, flexible knife; then loosen the omelet fiom
the pan, turn it out without breaking on to a dish, and
serve at once. See Fig. 1206.
(2) Trim and wash some button-Mushrooms, cut them
into slices, put them in a stewpan, dust over with salt,
pepper, and a small quantity of flour, squeeze over the
juice of half a lemon, and moisten with a little water.
Stew them until tender and the liquor has reduced ; break
four eggs in a basin, season with salt, pepper, and a
moderate quantity each of finely-chopped thyme, parsley,
and shallots, add the Mushrooms, and beat the whole well
together. Melt a good-sized lump of butter in an omelet-
pan, pour in the above mixture, and stir it with a wooden
spoon ; turn the edges of the omelet up all round with
the spoon, and as soon as it is lightly browned underneath
turn it over on to a hot dish and serve immediately, or it
will not be nice.
Mushroom Patties. — Butter and line some small patty-
pans with good paste, till them with uncooked rice, and
bake. Trim and wash a sufficient quantity of button-
Mushrooms, drain perfectly, and chop them ; next put
them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and tcss about
over the fire until they are nicely fried. Thicken about 1
teacupful of water with a small quantity of flour, pour it
over the Mushrooms, add 1 table-spoonful of thick cream
and a few drops of clear broth! season to taste with salt,
pepper, and a small quantity of cayenne, and squeeze in
a few drops of lemon-juice. Stir the mixture over the
fire with a wooden spoon, and boil very gently for a few
minutes. When cooked, turn the rice out of the patties,
and fill them with the above mixture. Serve on a hot
dish nicely garnished with parsley.
Mushroom Pie. — (1) Select about twelve or fourteen large
flat Mushrooms, peel, and cut them in quarters, also peel
and slice some large potatoes ; butter a pie-dish, put in a
layer of potatoes, then a layer of Mushrooms, another of
potatoes, and so on until all are used, seasoning between
each layer with salt and pepper, and putting pieces of
butter here and there. Cover the pie with a nice crust,
trimming otf neatly round the edges, and bake in a
moderate oven. Put the trimmings of the Mushrooms in
a small quantity of clear gravy and boil them for several
minutes, then strain the liquor and season to taste with
salt and pepper. When the pie is cooked, make a. slight
incision in the top and pour in the gravy, which should
have been kept hot. Serve the pie hot.
(2) Select a quantity of large Mushrooms, remove the
stalks and skin, and cut them in halves ; put them into a
frying-pan with a little oil or butter, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and fry quickly for a few minutes, then remove
them from the fire. Put a few slices of raw ham at the
bottom of a pie-dish, next a layer of the Mushrooms, then
one of minced parsley, onion, and fennel ; squeeze down
tightly, place another layer of ham on top, and pour over
2 table-spoonfuls of light brown sauce. Cover the pie-dish
Mushrooms — continued.
with short-paste, put it on a baking sheet in a moderate
oven, bake for an hour, and serve hot.
Mushroom Powder. — (1) Wipe h peck of fresh Mushrooms
with a cloth to remove any dirt or grit, and cut off the
uneatable parts ; put them into a saucepan with a few
onions, cloves, a little mace, and a good supply of pepper,
do not add any liquor, but toss them over the fire until
all the moisture from the Mushrooms and onions has dried
up, taking care that they do not burn. Now lay the
Mushrooms on sieves, set them in a hot oven, and leave
until they are so dry that they will easily beat into
powder. Put this" powder into small bottles, cork, fasten
down closely, and keep in a cool dry place.
(2) Select the largest and thickest button-Mushrooms,
lay them out on dishes, and place them in a rather cool
oven. When the Mushrooms are very dry, put them in a
mortar, and pound to a fine powder ; mix with it a moderate
quantity each of powdered mace and cayenne pepper, and
sift it through a fine hair sieve. Keep the powder dry in
well-stoppered glass bottles.
Mushroom Puree. — (1) Remove the stalks and skins from
lib. of Mushrooms, chop them up, put them in a sauce-
pan with a little broth or milk, and simmer gently for
ten minutes. Add the crumb of a French roll, and stir
vigorously until all the moisture has evaporated. Add
loz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and rub the whole
through a fine strainer. Put the puree in a pan to keep
warm until wanted, and if too thick a little milk or
cream may be added whilst it is being passed through the
sieve.
(2) Cut off the stalks from some Mushrooms, wash them
well, chop them up very fine, put them into a lined sauce-
pan with a little butter and salt, cover the pan, and
reduce the moisture quickly over a brisk fire. Turn them
out into a mortar, put hi a little butter and meat glaze,
pound them well, and add a little bechamel sauce ; when
the mixture is quite thick, pass it through a sieve, and
it is ready for use.
(3) To make a white puree of Mushrooms, put them
(when they are peeled and washed) into some water and
lemon-juice ; chop them up small and put them into a
saucepan with a little butter, and when the Mushrooms
are softened add a few table-spoonfuls of good sauce, such
as veloute or bechamel, boil for a few minutes, rub them
through a fine sieve, and the puree is then ready for use.
(4) To make brown Mushroom puree, put the Mushrooms
into a saucepan with a little Spanish sauce, and boil for
a few minutes, skimming once or twice ; add a little sugar,
and pass it through a fine sieve.
(5) Wash IJlb. of Mushrooms, cut them up small, and
put them into a saucepan with 1 table-spoonful each of
water and lemon-juice and a small quantity of salt. Place
the pan on the fire, boil the contents gently for two
minutes, then remove the pan and let the Mushrooms cool
in their liquor. Take them out, drain, wipe on a cloth,
and pound them in a mortar together with loz. of butter,
and pass the whole through a fine sieve. Have ready 1
pint of bechamel sauce, put it in a saucepan with the
Mushroom liquor, reduce it, and add the puree to it. Boil
up, add loz. of butter, mix -well in, and serve very hot.
Mushroom Sauce. — (1) Put lib. of Mushrooms into a sauce-
pan with three shallots, finely chopped, and a small bunch
of parsley. Pour in sufficient clear gravy stock to cover
the Mushrooms well, season to taste with salt and pepper,
and let them stew gently at the side of the fire for a
couple of hours, keeping the lid on the saucepan. At the
end of that time, pass the sauce through a fine hair sieve,
rubbing the Mushrooms through with a wooden spoon.
Put loz. of butter into a small saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until well mixed,
then pour in the sauce, and stir the whole until boiling.
It is then ready for use.
(2) Clean lqt. of Mushrooms, and boil them gently in a
small quantity of water until tender. Put 2oz. of butter
and 1 table-spoonful of flour into a stewpan, stirring them
over the fire until well mixed ; then pour in 1 breakfast-
cupful of cream and a small quantity of the cooking-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dc., referred to, see under their special heads.
963
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mushrooms — continued.
liquor of the Mushrooms, continue stirring until boiling,
then strain the Mushrooms and put them in. Season the
sauce to taste with salt and cayenne pepper, and let it
simmer at the side of the fire until ready to serve.
Mushroom Brown Sauce.— (1) Pare lqt. of Mushrooms and
chop off the roots ; wash them well, cut them in halves,
and put them into a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful
of brown gravy and the peel of half a lemon, adding salt
and pepper to taste. Cook gently for thirty minutes, and
if the liquor has evaporated too much add a little more
gravy and a small piece of butter rolled1 in flour. Remove
the lemon-peel, add the juice of half a lemon, and it is
then ready for use.
(2) Peel the Mushrooms, cut them into small pieces, put
them in a saucepan with about loz. of butter, and fry
until lightly browned. Pour in \ pint of clear broth,
season it with lemon -juice and salt, and boil for a few
minutes. Serve the sauce hot.
(3) Pick carefully over 1 pint of Mushrooms, and when
they are quite clean put them iii a stewpan with three
finely-chopped shallots and a few sprigs of parsley. Pour
in sufficient clear gravy to cover them well, season to
taste with salt and pepper, boil gently for two hours, and
at the end of that time pass the Mushrooms with the
sauce through a fine hair sieve. Mix loz. of butter
and 1 table-spoonful of flour in a stewpan over the fire,
pour in the sauce, and stir until it boils. Keep it hot in
the bain-marie until ready to serve.
Mushroom White Sauce. — (1) Chop off the stems from lqt. of
Mushrooms, peel and wash them well, cut them in halves,
and put them into a saucepan with 1 gill of water. Add
half a blade of beaten mace, a little lemon-peel and
grated nutmeg, cover over the pan, and stew gently for
thirty minutes, taking care not to let them burn. Beat
up the yolks of two eggs with 1 breakfast-cupful of
cream, and add a little butter rolled in flour and salt to
taste. Stir the Mushroom mixture until it is quite smooth ;
pour in the cream mixture, and stir well until the whole
boils. Take out the lemon-peel, add the juice of half a
lemon, and it is ready for use, being served separately or
poured over the fowls, &c.
(2) Peel and trim off all the dark parts from the Mush-
rooms, cut them into small pieces, and put them in a
saucepan with 1 teacupful of cream, 2oz. of butter, and a
small quantity of white pepper ; put the lid on the sauce-
pan, and let the Mushrooms simmer gently at the side of
the fire until soft. Put h pint of clear broth into a sauce-
pan with sufficient flour to bring it to the thickness of
cream, stir it over the fire until cooked, then pour in
with the Mushrooms. Season the sauce to taste with salt
and grated nutmeg, boil it for two or three minutes
longer, then serve.
(3) Cut about 1 pint of button-Mushrooms into halves.
Melt 2oz. of butter in a saucepan, and mix in 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour. When smooth, pour in gradually about
1 pint of clear veal stock, and stir until boiling. Put in
the button-Mushrooms, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and boil for ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two
eggs together with the juice of a small lemon, ai d strain
and stir them into the sauce, first moving the saucepan
to the side of the fire. When the eggs have thickened,
the sauce will be ready for serving. It must not boil
after the eggs are added, or they will curdle.
Mushrooms Saute3. — (1) Pick and thoroughly cleanse some
large Mushrooms, and put them into a basin of cold water
with the juice of a lemon or a small quantity of vinegar.
Take them out, and dry them on a cloth ; melt a lump of
butter in a saute-pan, put in the Mushrooms, with salt
and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, and toss them over the fire until nicely cooked.
When ready, turn the Mushrooms on to a hot dish,
and serve.
(2) Peel and trim some middling-sized Mushrooms, chop
up the trimmings with one shallot and 1 teaspoonful of
parsley, and when they are minced very fine put them
into a sautApan with loz. of butter, a little brown sauce, 1
table-spoonful of breadcrumbs, and salt and pepper to taste.
Mushrooms — continued.
Saute them until done, stuff the Mushrooms with the
mixture, put them on a baking-sheet, and bake in a
moderate oven for about ten minutes. Have ready some
croft tons of fried bread cut the size of the Mushrooms,
put them on a dish with a Mushroom on the top of each
(see Fig. 1207), and serve quickly.
Mushrooms Sautes a la Bordelaise. — Select lib. of the
largest, driest, thickest, and firmest Mushrooms procurable ;
pare them neatly, wash well, drain, and cut them into
lozenge shape. Place them in an earthenware dish,
sprinkle over them 1 table-spoonful of oil, 1 pinch of salt,
and twelve whole peppers, and leave them in the marinade
for two hours. Take them out, stew them for six minutes,
and when done place them on a dish. Put 3 table-
spoonfuls of oil in a saute-pan together with 1 teaspoonful
each of well -chopped parsley, anchovies, and a clove of
crushed garlic, heat for five minutes, add to the Mush-
rooms, and serve.
Mushrooms Sautes a la Creme. — Prepare lib. of fine,
fresh Mushrooms by neatly paring off the ends ; then
clean and wash them well, and if very large cut into halves.
Drain, and place them in a saute-pan with loz. of butter.
Season with 1 pinch of salt and \ pinch of pepper, put
on the lid, and cook over a moderate fire for six minutes.
Add 2 table-spoonfuls of veloute sauce and l breakfast-
cupful of sweet cream, cook for four minutes longer, and
serve in a hot dish with six heart-shaped bread croft tons
for garnish.
Mushrooms Sautes on Toast. — Prepare lib. of fine, large,
fresh Mushrooms, as for Mushrooms Sautes a la Creme,
and place them in a saute -pan with loz. of butter. Season
with 1 pinch of salt and 7 pinch of pepper, cover the
pan, and cook for ten minutes, tossing them well. Squeeze
in the juice of half a medium-sized lemon and add 1 pinch
of chopped parsley, well sprinkled over. Place six pieces of
toasted bread on a hot dish, dress the Mushrooms over
them, and serve.
Mushroom Soup. — (1) Peel about two dozen nice large
Mushrooms, put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter
and fry them ; and then pound them finely in a mortar.
Mix U pints of good stock with the Mushrooms, and
pass the whole through a fine hair sieve. Pour the soup
into a stewpan, and mix with it 1 pint of cream and some
stewed button-Mushrooms ; season to taste with salt and
pepper, and boil it up. Serve in a soup-tureen with a
plate of sippets of toast or erofttons of fried bread.
(2) Put a good quantity of chopped Mushrooms and a
sliced onion into 3 pints of boiling water in a saucepan
on the fire and thicken with a little flour fried hi butter.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, strain into a tureen,
and serve with small pieces of fried bread, macaroni, or
vermicelli floating on the top.
Pickled Mushrooms. — (1) Procure sufficient young button-
Mushrooms (the best for pickling), cut the stalks off short,
and remove the skins with a piece of flannel dipped in
salt. Put them into a stewpan together with 1 teaspoon-
ful of pounded mace and h teaspoonful of ground pepper
for each pint, dredge with salt, and toss them over a
moderate fire. When the juice runs from them and has
all dried up again, pour in a sufficient quantity of
vinegar to cover ; boil for about three minutes, then turn
all into jars or wide-mouthed bottles. On the following
day, cover the jars or bottles with parchment, tie down
securely, seeing that they are perfectly air-tight, and stow
them away in a diy store-cupboard for use.
(2) Procure a sufficient quantity of small button-Mush-
rooms, and rah clean with a flannel dipped in vinegar.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
4 A 2
964
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mushrooms — continued.
Lay them on a deep dish, strew a moderate quantity of
salt over, and let them macerate for several hours, until
the juice has well run from them. Next, put them with
their juice into a saucepan and boil gently for fifteen
minutes; then turn on to a sieve, and drain until cold.
Put them again into the saucepan with a blade of mace,
a moderate quantity of ginger, cloves, peppercorns, and salt,
pour in sufficient strong sour beer to cover, and boil gently
until they have shrunk to about half their original size.
When cold, put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles and
pour the beer over them ; put the stoppers in the bottles, tie
parchment over the top, and keep in a dry store-cupboard.
(3) Wash well, but do not peel, some small button-Mush-
rooms, and drain. For 9qts. of Mushrooms allow 2 table-
spoonfuls of finely-powdered mace, 1 table-spoonful of
finely- powdered cloves, two or three pieces of garlic,
cayenne pepper to taste, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. When
the Mushrooms are drained, put them into jars or bottles,
sprinkling the spices, well mixed, among them as they are
put in, and fill up with boiling vinegar. When cold tie
down air-tight, and in a few weeks the pickle will be
ready for use.
(4) Clean some small button-Mushrooms, and cut off the
stalks ; put them in a jar, cover with vinegar, and add 1 tea-
spoonful of salt, a few white peppercorns, and 1 blade of
mace to every pint of Mushrooms. Cover the jars securely,
and let the pickle remain for a day or so, when it will
be quite ready for use.
(5) Procure the requisite quantity of small button-Mush-
rooms, and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel dipped
in salt ; throw them into milk and water, then drain and
dry them on a cloth. Boil a sufficient quantity of white
vinegar to cover the Mushrooms, adding moderate quan-
tities of salt, bruised ginger, mace, cayenne pepper, and
nutmeg. Put the Mushrooms into wide-mouthed bottles,
pour the boiling vinegar over, and when cold cork the
bottles, cover them with bladder, and tie down.
Pickled Mushroom Sauce. — Pour 1 breakfast-cupful of
brown or Spanish sauce into a saucepan and mix in 1
table-spoonful of Mushroom ketchup, a little butter rolled
in flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 table-spoonful of the
liquor from some pickled Mushrooms, and lastly 1 teacupful
of pickled Mushrooms. Put the pan on the fire and continue
to stir until quite smooth arid thick, when it is ready for
use ; it is very good poured over roasted fowls.
Potted Mushrooms. -Large button-Mushrooms without any
brown inside them should be used, and about 2qts. will
be sufficient. Peel and remove the fur from the larger
ones, put them all into a saucepan with l drachm of
powdered mace, 2 drachms of white pepper, and six or eight
powdered cloves ; place the pan on the fire and shake and
toss it until the liquor from the Mushrooms has dried up.
Now add 2oz. of butter and cook until the Mushrooms
are quite done, then drain off the butter and leave until
quite cold. Pack the Mushrooms closely in an earthenware
pot, pour some warmed flutter over, cover the pot
with white paper, over this pour clarified beef -suet to
exclude the air, and set away in a cool diy place until
wanted.
Preserved Mushrooms.— (1) Select the largest button-Mush-
rooms and wash them in vinegar ; lay them on a fine sieve,
sprinkle with a small quantity of salt, and leave them to
drain. Next place them in a deep dish in a cool oven
and in about an hour’s time drain them again. Pour all
the juice that ran from them into a lined stewpan, mix
with it a blade or two of mace, and boil until reduced to
half the original quantity ; then move it from the fire and
let it get cold. Put the Mushrooms into large earthenware
jars, and pour the cold liquor over them. Melt some suet
in a stewpan, and pour a layer of it in each jar ; when
cold and hardened, cover the jars with bladder, tie them
down, and keep in a diy store-cupboard.
(2) Clean the Mushrooms, cut off the heads, wash them
in a basin of clean water, drain, turn, and peel them ;
put them into a stewpan with loz. of butter, the strained
juice of half a lemon, 1 pinch of salt, and 1 teacupful
of cold water ; set the stewpan over a quick fire and
Mushrooms — continued.
boil the Mushrooms for five or six minutes, then turn
them into a jar, without the liquor, and keep them for
use. Peel and finely chop the stalks, put them into
the stewpan with 3 table-spoonfuls of the liquor in which
the Mushrooms were cooked, and let them boil gently for
three or four minutes. Turn the Mushroom-stalks into
another jar and use as wanted.
Stewed Mushrooms.— (1) Peel and remove the stalks from
some large Mushrooms, wash, and cut them into halves.
Put 2oz. of butter into a small lined saucepan with 2
table-spoonfuls of flour and mix them over the fire ; stir in
gradually about I ?, breakfast-cupfuls of milk, and when
boiling and thickened put in the Mushrooms. Season to
taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of powdered
mace, and stew them gently at the side of the fire until
tender. When cooked, turn the Mushrooms on to a hot
dish, garnish with some small croutons of bread that have
been fried a nice brown in butter, and serve.
(2) Peel the required quantity of Mushrooms, turn the
stalks, put them in a pan with a little butter, and half
cook them. Dust them over with pepper and salt, cover
with new milk or cream, and stew gently for fifteen
minutes longer. Serve hot with sippets of toast placed
round the dish for garnish.
(3) Thoroughly clean some button-Mushrooms, and cut
the largest into halves or quarters ; have ready a basin of
cold water made slightly acid with lemon-juice or vinegar,
and throw the Mushrooms into it. When all are done,
drain and dry them on a cloth. Melt 2oz. of butter in a
stewpan, add a small quantity of water, put in the Mush-
rooms, season to taste with salt, pepper, and moderate
quantities of grated nutmeg and finely-powdered sweet
herbs, and stew gently at the side of the fire for ten
minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs together- with the
juice of a lemon, strain, and stir in with the Mushrooms,
then turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(4) Peel or pare 1 pint of button-Mushrooms, throwing
them as they are pared into a basin of water with a little
lemon-juice in it. When all are done take them from
the water without disturbing the sediment, put them over
the fire in a stewpan with a sprinkling of salt, the strained
juice of half a lemon, and sufficient fresh butter to stew
them. Fit on the lid of the pan, and let the Mushrooms
stew slowly till they are tender ; they may require nearly
half-an-hour. Thicken the butter with 1 teaspoonful of
flour mixed smooth with a little cream or milk and
flavoured with mace. Serve all together very hot.
(5) Pare some Mushrooms and put them into a saucepan
with a little milk and water ; add a little veal gravy,
mace, and salt, and stew them until done. Thicken the
liquor with a little cream or the yolks of eggs, and it is
ready for use.
(6) Melt 2oz. of butter in a saucepan, and put in some
Mushrooms (without their stalks or skins) with the rounded
side downwards; dust them over with salt and pepper,
put the pan on the fire, and let them simmer gently for
fifteen minutes or so, according to the thickness. When
quite tender, cover them with white sauce and simmer
gently for thirty minutes longer. They will then be quite
ready for use, and can be either served as a sauce or
eaten with fried cr. nitons of bread.
Stewed Mushrooms with Cream Sauce. — Put 2oz. of
butter into a saucepan, and when it is dissolved mix in
the yolks of two eggs lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon,
and a little salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until it
thickens. Have ready h pint of plain butter sauce, pour
it in gradually, stirring all the time. Skin and trim 41b.
of Mushrooms, and stew them gently in a saucepan with
a little milk or broth. Pour them with their liquor into
the sauce and let them remain for a few minutes. Have
ready some pieces of toast, spread the Mushroom mixture
over them, and serve. The sauce must be of such a con-
sistence that it will not inn when put on the pieces of
toast, and care must be taken not to let the butter oil or
the sauce get lumpy in cooking, or it will be spoilt.
Stewed Mushrooms in Cups.— Cut off the stalks of 1 pint
of Mushrooms, remove the peel, chop them up small, and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
965
Mushrooms — continued.
put them into a saucepan with a little gravy and chopped
parsley ; sprinkle them over with salt and pepper, and
stew gently over a moderate lire for forty minutes. The
gravy can he made by boiling the parings and stalks in
water and when done straining and using instead of gravy.
Beat six eggs up in a basin, add them to the mixture,
pour the whole into buttered cups or moulds, bake in a
quick oven, turn out on to a hot dish, and serve with a
little white sauce.
Stewed Mushrooms with Egg's. — (1) Peel about ljlb. of
Mushrooms, and peel and chop a moderate-sized onion.
Melt Jib. of butter in a lined stewpan, and put in the
Mushrooms and onion with 2 table-spoonfuls of Mushroom
ketchup, 1 table-spoonful of vinegar, and a small quantity
of grated nutmeg ; season to taste with salt and pepper.
Put the lid on the stewpan, and stew the contents gently
for twenty minutes. Beat three eggs well and stir them
Fig. 1208. Stewed Mushrooms with Eggs.
in with the Mushrooms, but do not boil or they will
curdle. Put a border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish,
pile the Mushrooms in the centre, garnish with slices of
hard-boiled eggs (see Fig. 1208), and serve.
(2) Peel and trim some Mushrooms ; put them into a
saucepan with a little butter, sprinkle them over with
salt and pepper, and stew gently till quite tender. When
quite done, put them into a shallow dish, with sufficient
eggs to cover them — without breaking the yolks. Cover
the top with fried breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper,
and put them into a quick oven for live minutes or so,
until the eggs are set but not quite hard. Put some
crofttons of fried bread round the dish, and serve.
Stewed Mushrooms for Garnish. — Clean aftd wash Jgall.
of Mushrooms, and cut them with their stalks into slices
about Jin. thick. Put Jib. of butter into a frying-pan on
the fire, and when the butter is quite hot, without being
coloured, add the Mushrooms, with a little salt and pepper,
and toss them -for four minutes. Then sprinkle with loz.
of flour, and toss them again for one minute longer ; add
1 teacupful of broth, 1 table-spoonful each of minced parsley
and shallot, and when they are of a light brown colour
they are done and ready for use.
Stewed Mushroom Stems. — Cut into rather small pieces
the stems of Mushrooms which have been used either for
baking or broiling ; put them in a pan over the fire with
1 piled table-spoonful of butter to 1 pint of stems, together
with a seasoning of salt and pepper, and stew gently until
tender. Have ready a slice of toast, and serve the Mush-
room stems on it ; or mince them, and scallop them with
an equal quantity of breadcrumbs, a seasoning of salt and
pepper, and brown them in a hot oven.
Stewed Mushrooms with White Sauce. — (1) Choose small
Mushrooms just opening from the button. Pick, trim, and
clean them well, then rinse them in cold water with a
little salt in it ; pour this water off, and rinse them in
fresh, drain them, and spread them out to dry. When
the Mushrooms are dry, put them into a stewpan with
about 2oz. of butter and a bunch of sweet herbs, and shake
them a few times over the fire. Then take out the herbs,
dredge the Mushrooms with flour, add a seasoning of
pepper and salt and just enough gravy to moisten them,
and let them simmer till they are sufficiently cooked. Beat
up the yolks of four eggs with J pint of cream, add a
little grated nutmeg, and stir this mixture of cream and
Mushrooms — continued.
eggs in with the Mushrooms. Put some pieces of toasted
bread into a hot dish, pour the Mushrooms hot over them,
and serve at once.
(2) Pick and clean the Mushrooms, and if large cut each
into four pieces, throwing them into a bowl of slightly-
acidulated water. When all are done, diy them on a
cloth. Put 2oz. or 3oz. of butter into a stewpan, and when
melted put hi the Mushrooms with a small quantity of
white stock, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity
each of powdered sweet herbs and grated nutmeg. Boil
the Mushrooms gently for about ten minutes, then move
the stewpan to the edge of the fire and stir in quickly
the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten with the
juice of a lemon, and strained. Turn the Mushrooms on
to a hot dish, and serve.
Tinned Mushrooms with Brown Sauce. — For a tin of
Mushrooms, put into a saucepan 1 piled table-spoonful
each of butter and flour. Stir them together over the fire
until they begin to brown, then gradually mix in the
liquor from the tin, together with water if any be needed
to make the sauce of the proper consistency ; add the
Mushrooms, and season with salt, pepper, and a very little
grated nutmeg. When the Mushrooms are hot stir in
1 wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, and serve as a vege-
table. Toast may be served under the Mushrooms, or the
sauce and Mushrooms may be poured on a dish with
broiled beef-steak or broiled chicken, or with a baked or
roasted tender loin of beef.
Tinned Mushrooms with Cream Sauce. — After opening
the tin, carefully drain the liquor or essence from the
Mushrooms, saving it «to add to the sauce. Put into a
saucepan over the fire 1 table-spoonful each of butter and
flour, and stir them until they are smoothly blended, then
gradually stir in the Mushroom essence or liquor from the
tin, and add sufficient cream to make a sauce of the con-
sistency of gravy. Put the Mushrooms into the sauce,
season with salt and pepper, and when hot serve them as
a vegetable. Toast may be served under them if desired.
Tinned Mushrooms used in Sauce for Steaks. — Take
about half a tin of Mushrooms (which will be quite suffi-
cient for two large steaks), drain off the liquor, and fry
them in a little butter, adding salt and pepper to taste.
When done, put them on one side of the pan and add
1 teaspoonful of flour to the butter ; rub it to a smooth
paste, and when it is well browned add gradually the
Mushroom-liquor, and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of water.
Shake in the Mushrooms, boil up, pour in the juice of a
quarter of a lemon, and turn over the meat on a dish, and
serve.
MUSK.— What is known to confectioners under this
name is an essence prepared from the contents of the
Musk-bag of the Musk-deer. It yields a powerful, pleasing
scent and a warm aromatic flavour.
Musk Cakes (Turkish Receipt).— Mix lib. of wheat-
starch to a thin batter with sufficient water ; put Jib. of
butter in a saucepan with 1 pint of boiling syrup, then
mix in gradually the flatter, 4oz. of blanched and skinned
almonds, and a small quantity of rose-water and Musk.
Stir the mixture gently over a moderate fire until it begins
to crumble, then turn it into a deep square dish, and
smooth the surface with the back of a spoon or a spatula;
leave it for a few minutes, then cut it into diamonds, dust
over with caster sugar, and serve.
Musk-flavoured Cream. — Put 6oz. of caster sugar into a
basin, pour in 3 wineglassfuls of maraschino, and stir
until dissolved, then mix in 3 table-spoonfuls of rose-water, a
small quantity of Musk, and 1 Joz. of dissolved isinglass ;
stir the ingredients till well mixed, pour in 1 pint of
whipped cream, and continue stirring for a few minutes
longer. Turn the cream into a mould and pack it in ice,
or leave it in a cool place until firm. Dip the mould in
tepid water, turn the cream out on to a fancy dish, and
serve.
Musk Drops. — Take 21b. of sifted crushed loaf sugar, re-
jecting any powder, as it will spoil the appearance of the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i be., referred to, see under their special heads.
966
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Musk — continued.
drops, and using only the very small lumps; put it into a
sugar-pan with a lip to it, and add gradually, stirring all
the time, sufficient water to form a paste that will drop
from the spoon without sticking to it. Set the pan on
the stove and stir the contents with a spatula until the
suga ' is dissolved and upon the point of boiling, remove
it, add essence of Musk to flavour, and with the pan in
the left hand and a piece of bent wire in the right, let
the drops fall, cutting them off from the pan with the
wire on to cartridge-paper or a smooth tin, and set them
away to dry for two hours. Remove them carefully from
the paper or tin and pack in boxes or bottles.
Musk Flavouring- for Liqueurs. — Pound in a mortar two
grains of Musk with Jib. of sugar ; mix them thoroughly
together, put this powder into a bottle, and keep it air-
tight. A pinch of this is enough for 4 cits, or 5qts. of
liqueur.
MUSK MELONS.- See Melons.
MUSKELLUNGE.— The name of a large American
pike ( Esox nobilior ) caught in the great lakes and esteemed
as food.
MUSSELS [Ft. Moules ; Ger. Muscheln). — These are
the oysters of the poor (said Grimod de la Reyniere), and
they ought to be favoured also by the rich, for there is
scarcely a shell-fish which surpasses them in flavour. By
Continental cooks they are largely used, and so too would
they be by British cooks if it were not for that disparaging
Fig. 1209. Mussels.
fact that they are cheap and common. The Mussel
(Mytilus edulis ) (see Pig. 1209) is found in vast numbers
along the coasts of almost every sea, some, termed horse-
Mussels, being especially large ; both kinds are edible, and
largely consumed, especially in Prance, where cases of
poisoning from eating them are unknown. In this country
some few cases of so-called poisoning have been attributed
to eating Mussels, but most authorities are agreed that
such cases are exceedingly rare in comparison with the
number of Mussels consumed as food. It is just possible
that something of their wholesomeness would he due to
their freshness and the purity of the water from which
they were taken. Mussels feeding in the neighbourhood
of a sewer’s outlet would scarcely be expected to be whole-
some. Prepared according to the following receipts,
Mussels are exceedingly delicious :
Boiled Stuffed Mussels.— Put the Mussels into water,
brush them with a stiff brush or scrape them to clean
them thoroughly, and wash them. Open the shells with
a knife, but without separating them entirely. Put 1
Mussels — continued.
breakfast-cupful of olive oil in a saucepan with three
finely-chopped onions, and stir them about over the fire
with a wooden spoon until nicely browned. Wash 1
break fast-cupful of rice, put it in with the onions, also
1 table-spoonful of washed currants, and 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of blanched pistachio-kernels. Season the mixture
with salt and pepper, and stir it over the fire until the
rice begins to take colour, then pour in 1 teacupful of
water, and continue stirring it over the fire until the
moisture is reduced. Leave the mixture until cold, then
stuff the Mussels with it, close the shells, and lay them
in a stewpan ; moisten to height with water, put a plate
over to keep them down, and boil quickly. When the
moisture has evaporated, take the Mussels out of the stew-
pan, and place them on a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
They may be served cold if preferred.
Fried Mussels.— (1) Pick some Mussels out of their shells,
remove their beards, dip them in milk, cover with bread-
crumbs well seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in a
frying-pan until they are of a light brown colour. Put
them on a dish in a warm place, pour a little of their
liquor in the pan, add a little pepper and salt (if required),
sprinkle in a few breadcrumbs, and add a little butter.
When it is quite hot, pour it over the Mussels, and serve
at once. The Mussels may be previously pickled if
desired, but it is not necessary.
(2) Open and take the Mussels out of their shells, dip
them in Hour, then in beaten eggs, and then in flour
again, and fry till nicely browned in boiling olive oil or
butter. Drain the Mussels, pile them in a group upon an
ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, dust them with salt
and pepper, and serve.
Bustled Mussels. — Wash well some Mussels in several
waters, and put them in a basin with only just enough
water to cover, and let them remain for twelve hours or
so. Put them in a saucepan without any water, cover
over, and place the pan on a brisk fire. As soon as they
begin to get warm those at the bottom will throw out
sufficient water to keep the pan from burning, and they
will require to be hustled or tossed to the top so that all
of them will have felt the heat. As soon as they open
they are done; put them on a dish, pour their liquor over,
and serve.
Mussels en Brochette. — Thoroughly clean the required
number of Mussels, removing the beards and all uneatable
parts ; fasten six at a time on small skewers and roast
them in front of the fire, or dip them into fritter-batter
| and fty in boiling fat.
Mussels en Coquilles. — Procure some small Mussels, they
being the most delicate, scrape the shells, and wash them
in several waters to remove all the grit. Put the Mussels
in a, stewpan with one sliced onion, a small bunch of
parsley, and 1 pint of French white wine; season with
pepper and salt. Stand the pan over the fire till the
shells open, when the Mussels will he done. Take them
out of their shells, clean thoroughly, and cut them into
halves. Strain the cooking-liquor of the Mussels into
another saucepan, mix with it an equal quantity of veloute
sauce, and boil till reduced to about half its original
quantity. Thicken the sauce with a lump of butter or a
liaison of two yolks of eggs, stirring by the side of the
fire and not allowing it to boil after the eggs are added:
put the Mussels in the sauce with 1 table-spoonful of
chopped parsley. Fill some silver shells with the above
mixture, cover with finely-grated breadcrumb, put a small
bit of butter on the top of each, and brown under a sala-
mander or in the oven. When cooked, arrange the coquilles
on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin that has
been placed on a hot dish, garnish with neat sprigs of
fried parsley, arranging it here and there between the
shells, and serve.
Mussels a la Matelote. — Wash and clean some Mussels,
put them into a saucepan over a clear fire, and toss or
hustle them until the shells open. Turn the Mussels into
a colander placed over a pan, so as to save all their liquor,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
967
Mussels — continued.
and remove tlie half shells, beards, &c. Put 2 table-spoon-
fuls of chopped shallots and a clove of garlic into a sauce-
pan with a little butter, and fry without letting them
take colour ; put in the Mussels, pour over 1 wineglassful
of wine and the Mussel-liquor, place the pan over the fire,
boil for a few minutes, thicken with a pfiece of butter
kneaded with finely-minced breadcrumb, parsley, and a
little cayenne, and toss the pan for a little while longer
Fig. 1210. Mussels 1 la Matelote.
until all the butter is melted. Put them in a metal dish,
pour over the liquor, stand in another dish, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve very hot. See Fig. 1210.
Mussels a la Poulette. — (1) Take some Mussels that have
been hustled or plain cooked, remove the half shell that
does not contain the fish, take off the beard and weed,
remove any young crabs there may be, and put them on a
dish either piled up or packed closely together. In the
meantime, prepare a little melted butter, made with the
Mussel-liquor instead of water and a good quantity of
butter, and sprinkle over a little pepper and sufficient
vinegar to give it a sharp taste ; make this mixture hot,
pour it over the Mussels, and serve at once. Nutmeg,
mace, or chopped parsley and chives may be added to the
sauce if desired to heighten the flavour.
(2) Wash and clean the shells of some Mussels, put
them in a pan with a little wine, and cook them over a
slow fire until they are done, which will lie seen by the
shells opening. Take away half of the shells, or all of
them if preferred, and put them in a saucepan with a
little butter, chopped parsley and chives, and grated nutmeg
and black pepper. Toss the pan over a clear fire, mix in a
little more butter, and pour in a little of the strained Mussel-
liquor and stock ; after it has boiled for a few seconds
add the yolks of one or two eggs to thicken the liquor,
pour it all out on a dish, and serve hot.
(3) Put three dozen large Mussels into a saucepan and
steam them for ten minutes. Remove half the shells, put
them into a saucepan with some of their liquor, and add
lo_z. of butter, a little salt, and pepper; warm them in
this, pour in 1 teacupful of hollandaise sauce, stew well
for a couple of minutes longer, but without letting the
liquor boil, add 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley and the
juice of half a lemon, stir gently, arrange the Mussels on
a dish, pour over the remainder, and serve.
Mussels a la Villeroy. — Wash and thoroughly cleanse some
Mussels, changing the water five or six times if necessary,
and remove the sinewy strings that are to be found
inside. Put them into a saucepan, pour over 1 wineglass -
ful of wine, toss them over the fire until the shells open,
then turn them into a colander over a pan and let them
drain. Pull them out of their shells, and when they are
cool dip them into a little villeroy sauce ; arrange on a
baking-sheet, and when the sauce has cooled sprinkle them
over with breadcrumbs, repeating it to have them thoroughly
covered. Plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling fat,
fry to a light brown colour, then take them out, drain,
put them on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a garnish
of fried parsley.
Mussel Ketchup. — (1) Open lqt. of Mussels, saving the
liquor; put them in a mortar with four Bordeaux anchovies,
pound to a smooth paste, season with i table-spoonful each
of powdered cloves, ground mace, and cayenne pepper, and
h table-spoonful of salt. Pound again to thoroughly in-
corporate the seasoning, then put the mixture in a stew-
Mussels — continued.
pan with their liquor, 1 pint of white wine, and 2 urine-
glassfuls of cognac. Place it over a slow fire until boiling,
then strain the ketchup through a fine hair sieve. When
cold, pour the ketchup into small bottles, cork them
tightly, and keep in a store-cupboard for use. The above
makes an excellent relish for either boiled or fried fish.
(2) Put 1 breakfast-cupful of Mussels beaten to a pulp
into a lined saucepan, pour over J pint of sherry wine or
very strong old ale, and add Joz. of salt, Joz. of mace, and
a small quantity of black pepper ; set the saucepan at the
side of the fire, simmer for fully ten minutes, strain the
ketchup through a cloth, let it cool, pour it into bottles,
add a little brandy to each, cork up, and set them in a
cool place until wanted.
Mussel Filau. — Wash and open 2qts. of Mussels. Peel and
chop three moderate-sized onions, put. them in a saucepan
with 1 breakfast-cupful of olive oil, and stir over the fire
until nicely browned ; then put in the Mussels with
3 table-spoonfuls of tomato sauce, or, if preferred, two
tomatoes, cut crosswise into four, pour in pints of water,
season with salt, and place the pan over the fire until the
contents boil. Wash lib. of the best rice in plenty of
water, then put it in the saucepan with the other ingre-
dients. Put the lid on, move it to the side of the fire,
and let the contents simmer until all the moisture is
absorbed, then move it right to the back of the stove and
leave it for fifteen minutes. Arrange the pilau tastefully
on a hot dish, and serve.
Mussel Salad. — Wash the Mussels and boil them till the
shells open. When cooked, drain them, remove the shells,
and put them on a hot dish. Melt ^lb. of butter, season
with pepper, salt, lemon- juice, and a small quantity of
Worcestershire sauce, and pour it over the Mussels. They
should be eaten hot, with some thin slices of brown bread
and butter.
Mussel Sauce. — (1) Open the required quantity of Mussels,
remove the dark spots found in the body parts, wash
them well, and stew in Avater for about half-an-hour,
seasoning Avith a blade of mace. Strain the liquor, return
the Mussels to it, bring it gently to the boil, remove from
the fire, thicken Avith a liaison of flour and butter, add a
small quantity each of cream and milk, and it is then ready
for use.
(2) Wash and clean about fifty Mussels, steam (or hustle)
them, take them out of their shells, and remove the
beards and any Aveeds that may be in them. Put 3oz. of
blitter into a saucepan Avith 2oz. of flour, mix them
thoroughly, and add the Mussel-liquor, H pints of milk,
tAvo eloA'es, six peppercorns, half a blade of mace, 1 tea-
spoonful of salt, and half the quantity of cayenne. Put
tlie pan over the fire, boil it for ten minutes, stirring
continually, and add 1 table-spoonful each of Harvey sauce
and essence of anchovies. Pass it through a fine sieve into
a saucepan containing the Mussels, make it quite hot, but
Avithout boiling, and serve.
Mussel Soup. — (1) Clean thoroughly tgall. of Mussels and
toss them in a saucepan OArer a clear fire until the shells
open. Take out the fish, remove the Aveed, &c., put them
into a saucepan Avith loz. each of butter and flour, and add
a little chopped parsley and SAveet herbs. Put the pan on
the fire, pour in 3 pints of rich gravy, boil up, remove the
pan to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer
until the liquor is reduced to half its original quantity.
Pour it out on to a dish, garnish Avith pieces of fried
bread, and serve very hot.
(2) Put some fish or veal stock (see Stock) into a sauce-
pan, pour in its equal bulk of Mussel-liquor, and make
it hot. In the meantime prepare a roux by rolling butter
and flour together in equal proportions and warming them
in a saucepan over the fire for three minutes ; add the
stock, &c., to this, mix thoroughly, put the pan back
again on the fire, and Ai’hen it boils remove it to the side
and simmer gently for thirty minutes or so. Pour it into
a tureen over some Mussels, Avork in a liaison of lemon-
juice and yolk of egg, and serve at once.
(3) Open and clean sufficient Mussels to fill a quart
measure, steiv them, put them into a mortar Avith the
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
968
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mussels — continued.
yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, beat them to a pulp, put
it into a saucepan containing {gall, of hot fish stock, add
1 table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and simmer for
an hour. Remove from the fire, add 1 breakfast-cupful of
cream, and serve in a tureen.
Pickled Mussels. — (1) Take any quantity of cooked Mussels,
pick them out of their shells, remove the beards, put them
into jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and sprinkle over with
salt and pepper. Strain some of their liquor (that is what
comes from them when being cooked) and add to it an
equal quantity of vinegar ; fill up the bottles with the
liquor, tie them down, let them remain for a day or so,
when the Mussels will be ready for use. They -may be
eaten hot by pouring a little of the liquor into a saucepan,
uitli some minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and
thickening with a little butter well rolled in flour. Add
the Mussels, let them remain in it until thoroughly warmed
through, and serve.
(2) Take some hustled Mussels, remove the piece of weed,
if any, that is attached to them, and take out any small
crabs that may be found in them. Pull the fish out of
the shells with a fork and put them in an earthenware
jar, sprinkling them over frequently with pepper. When
their liquor is settled and clear, take some of it, and vinegar
in equal proportions, pour it over the Mussels, tie them
down tightly, and they will keep good for several days.
(3) Take the Mussels out of their shells and beard them,
put them into a saucepan with their liquor, moderate
quantities each of whole, black, and Jamaica pepper, mace,
ginger, and salt, and boil them for five minutes. When
cold, turn the pickle into jars, pour in each a little vinegar,
cover them with stout paper, and tie down securely.
Scalloped Mussels. — (1) Put some Mussels hr a saucepan
and hustle them over a quick fire for a few minutes
until the meat will come away easily from the shells.
Remove the beards, weeds, &c., take out the fish from
their shells, squeeze all the liquor out of them, aird add
it to that which came from them while being cooked ;
strain it into a saucepan, put hi the Mussels, and warm
them up, adding a little flour, butter, grated nutmeg, and
pepper. Care must be taken not to let them boil, and
not to use any salt, as they generally contain sufficient.
Have ready cleaned some scallop shells, cover them with
breadcrumbs, put a layer of the Mussels over it, then
breadcrumbs again, and another layer of Mussels ; moisten
them with a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor, put a layer
of crumbs on the top, with a few pieces of butter placed
here and there, sprinkle over a little dried parsley, and
put them in an oven to cook until they are a bright
brown. They may be browned with a salamander instead
of in the oven if desired, and must be served hot.
(2) Wash the shells several times till they are quite
clean, but do not let them soak in water or lie in it.
Plunge them into just sufficient boiling water to cover,
and keep the water boiling till the shells open. While
they are boiling, shake the saucepan frequently, and keep
it closely covered. When the Mussels are done (that is
when the shells open), remove their beards, pick them out
of then- shells, and save the liquor that runs from them.
If there are 1 pint of Mussels when they are shelled, add
to them { pint of the liquor that ran from them, and
put them over the fire hr it, adding a bit of butter rolled
in flour and a blade of mace. Let them stew gently for
a few minutes. Have some clean scallop shells ready and
well heated, pour the Mussels into them, cover with fine
breadcrumbs, stick little bits of butter over them, brown
before the fire, and serve hot. When boiling Mussels it is
as well to boil a silver spoon with them, and if it turns
black consider the Mussels unfit to be eaten, and throw
them away.
(3) Wash the Mussels in plenty of water, then drain them,
and steep them in milk for a few hours. Put the Mussels
in a saucepan without any water, and place them over
the fire until the shells open. Pour the liquor from the
Mussels into a basin, and leave it until it settles. Remove
the beards, tongues, and any weeds from the Mussels.
Pour the liquor of the Mussels slowly into a saucepan,
taking care not to disturb the sediment that will have
Mussels — continued.
settled at the bottom, place it over the fire until hot,
then put in about loz. of butter and sufficient bread-
crumbs to absorb the liquor ; season it with salt, pepper,
and a small quantity of grated nutmeg or mace. Put the
Mussels in with the above ingredients, and stir the whole
over the fire until quite hot, but without letting it boil.
Fill scallop shells with the stewed Mussels, baste each
with a small quantity of warmed butter, and brown them
lightly under a salamander. Arrange the shells on a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, squeeze the
juice of a lemon over them, and serve while very hot.
Stewed Mussels. — (1) Have some cooked or hustled (Mussels,
take them from their shells, and remove their beards and
any weeds there may be. In the meantime prepare a
stew by mixing 1 breakfast-cupful of boiling milk with
an equal quantity of the hot Mussel-liquor, and adding a
little butter and salt and pepper to taste. Put the
Mussels in a dish, pour the liquor over, and serve hot.
(2) Take some strained or hustled Mussels, remove their
beards and any weeds, and pull them out of their shells.
In the meantime put a little bacon in a saucepan with a
few button -mushrooms, warm them, and stir in a little
Hour mixed with some reduced stock and seasoned with
mixed herbs and pepper. When they are done, pour off
all the grease, put hi the Mussels with a little of their
liquor, and when quite hot pour it into a dish and serve
with small pieces of toasted bread.
(3) Open some Mussels, remove the beards, put them
with their liquor into a saucepan with a little vinegar, a
large onion or two, and a small quantity of parsley. Place
the pan over a moderate fire and stew them, then remove
from the fire, add a beaten egg or two, thicken with
butter rolled in flour, warm up again, and serve.
Stewed Mussels a la Mariniere. — Put' three dozen Mussels
into a saucepan without any water and steam them for
about ten minutes ; take them out, remove half of their
shells, put them into a saucepan with 2oz. of fresh butter,
1 pinch each of chives and finely-chopped chervil, { pinch
of pepper, and 1 teacupful of finely-sifted breadcrumbs ;
pour over { breakfast-cupful of water and boil for two
minutes longer. Turn the whole out on to a dish, and
Fig. 1211. Stewed Mussels k la Mariniere.
serve with the juice of half a lemon squeezed over. The
Mussels should lie arranged on the dish with the half-
shells downwards. Garnish with parsley and quarters of
lemons (see Fig. 1211).
MUST.— The juice of the grape before fermentation.
MUSTACCUIOLI.— Sometimes spelled Mustacciole
or Mustascioli. A sort of gingerbread or spice-cake,
prepared extensively in Italy. It is of a flat lozenge shape,
! stuffed with a mince of fruit slightly sugared, and glazed
j with plain chocolate without sugar.
MUSTARD (Fr. Moutarde ; _ Ger. _ Senf ; Ital. Mos-
tarda; Sp. Mostaza). — Kettner, in his "Book of the
Table,” informs us that Mustard, in the form which
at present prevails in England, was not known before 1/29.
Its Old English name was senvy, from sinapis The
seeds, either whole or coarsely pounded, were boiled in
vinegar or must — whence the name, meaning a kind of
pickle. The French to this day adhere very much to the
old form ; they grind the seeds to a fine flour, mix them
with tarragon vinegar, and present them for use thus
moistened. English Mustard as we now have it was the
invention of an old lady, Mrs. Clements, of Durham.
She ground the seeds in a mill exactly like wheat, and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads .
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
969
Mustard— continued.
sold it as a very fine flour. She kept her secret, and
made a little fortune out of it, trotting about from town
to town on a pack-horse for orders, and contriving to
secure the patronage of George I. It came to be called
Durham Mustard through being manufactured in Durham ;
though in fact it was no longer Mustard — that is some-
thing steeped in must.
The Mustard of America is the flour or finely-ground
seeds of Sinapis nigra, a small plant with a yellow
flower (see Fig. 1212) or 8. alba. Both are similar in
external appearance ; the flour, however, obtained from the
former is darker than that obtained from the latter.
Blyth tells us that whit e Mustard-seeds are of a yellow
colour, elliptical, smooth, a little larger than those of
black Mustard, and of a sharp biting taste. The seeds
of black Mustard are dark brown in colour, very
small, inodorous, and sometimes covered with a whitish
coating. The Mustard powder sold by grocers is fre-
quently a mixture of both.
Mustard is prepared for culinary use by first crushing
the seeds between rollers, and then pounding the meal
in large mortars. The powder is then passed through
sieves — that in the first sieve is called the dressings,
that which passes through is the impure flour of Mustard.
This impure flour on being passed through a second sieve
yields the pure flour of Mustard and a second quantity
of dressings. The dressings yield an oil upon pressure
that is much valued as a cure for rheumatism.
Ground Mustard is very frequently adulterated — the
commoner additions being wheat-flour, turmeric, cayenne
pepper, gamboge, ginger, potato-starch, pea-flour, radish
and rape-seeds, linseed-meal, yellow ochre, chromate of
lead, plaster of Paris, and clay. With such a record it
is quite evident that consumers will do well to purchase
of such manufactm’ers as Keen and Colman, and others
of equal repute, and with good reasons for retaining it.
From the following receipts it will be seen that there
are several modes of mixing and using Mustard :
Caster Mustard. — (1) Mix 2oz. of Mustard with 1 salt-
spoonful of sugar, adding sufficient water to make it of
the required consistence and perfectly smooth. The sugar
may be omitted and milk used.
(2) If required for keeping, mix 4oz. of Mustard with J
teaspoonful of salt, and when it is quite smooth add
gradually 1 teacupful of horseradish vinegar and 2 table-
spoonfuls of chilli vinegar. Put it into bottles (wide-
mouthed for preference), cork it down, and it will remain
good for some time.
Mustard — continued.
(3) Put 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of salt in a basin, pour
1 pint of boiling water on it, and leave it until cold. Stir
in with the above water sufficient Mustard to make it
thick, put the Mustard in a jar, cover it with parch-
ment, and tie it down. Mustard mixed in this way
will not discolour, and will keep for three or four
months.
French. Mustard. — (1) Put 1 pint of brown Mustard-seed
in a basin with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls each of parsley,
burnet, chervil, and tarragon, and about J teaspoonful each
of celery-seeds, cloves, mace, and garlic. Pour over these
ingredients a sufficient quantity of white wine vinegar to
cover them, put a plate on the basin, and let them steep
for twenty-four hours. Afterwards pound the mixture in
a mortar, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. Moisten
the Mustard with more vinegar to bring it to the desired
consistency, pack it into small wide-mouthed glass bottles,
and cork them tightly.
(2) Put a moderate quantity of mixed spices into a
saucepan with about J pint of vinegar, boil it until
nicely flavoured, then strain it from the spices. Mix some
Mustard to a stiff paste with cold vinegar, then with a
red-hot Italian iron-heater stir in quickly the boiling
spiced vinegar. Turn the Mustard into a bottle, and cork
it well. The Mustard will keep for several years.
(3) Imitation. — Mix together a little each of salt and
Hour, dilute with salad-oil so as to form a thick paste, and
then mix in a sufficient quantity of vinegar, such as horse-
radish, tarragon, or chilli, to suit the taste.
Imperial Mustard. — Finely chop \ teacupful of capers, and
put them into a saucepan with 1 table-spoonful each of
shallots and sardines both finely chopped, and a clove of
garlic also chopped small ; pour \ pint of water over and
boil for ten minutes. At the end of that time, strain the
liquor, return it to the saucepan with an equal quantity
of tarragon vinegar and 1 wineglassful of common vinegar,
and boil the whole together. Mix Jib. each of brown and
yellow Mustard with the boiling liquor until very smooth,
then stir in 1 table-spoonful of salad-oil, J table-spoonful
of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Put the Mustard
mixture into small pots, tie bladder over them, and keep
them in a dry store-cupboard for sixteen days. At the
end of that time the Mustard will be ready for use.
Mustard mixed with Eggs. —Rub the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs through a fine wire sieve, then mix with them
2 table-spoonfuls of Mustard, J table-spoonful of salt, and
1 table-spoonful of Florence oil. Work these together,
pouring in gradually at the same time sufficient tarragon
vinegar to make a smooth paste. Keep the Mustard
tightly corked in a jar until wanted.
Mustard Sauce. — (1) Put 2oz. of butter in a saucepan over
the fire and warm it without letting it brown. Mix in
well 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, pour in gradually 1 pint of
hot stock or water, and stir until it thickens and is per-
fectly smooth. Add 2oz. more of butter pulled in small
pieces, stir well, and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper.
Mix in 3 table-spoonfuls of made Mustard and a little
cayenne, and it is ready for use, being generally used for
devilled turkey, salt fish, &c.
(2) Put 2oz. of butter into a saucepan, and when it is
melted add 1 teaspoonful each of vinegar and flour, half
the quantity of English and 2J teaspoonfuls of French
Mustard, 1 saltspoonful of sugar, the yolks of two eggs,
and a little salt. Put the pan on the side of the fire,
stirring gently until it is done and of the consistence of
cream and very smooth. A little water or vinegar (in
addition), may be added if it is too thick.
(3) Thicken 1 pint of milk with flour, put in 2oz. of
butter, and stir it over the fire until boiling ; next mix
with it 1 table-spoonful of Mustard, a few drops of vinegar,
and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Keep the sauce
hot until ready to serve.
(4) Dilute in a saucepan 1 table-spoonful of ground
English Mustard with 1 table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar
and half the quantity of Worcestershire sauce ; strain
into this 1 pint of Spanish sauce, and place the pan on
I the hot stove. Beat continually until thoroughly heated,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
970
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mustard — continued.
then add 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. This sauce
must not be allowed to boil.
(5) Mustard sauce made as follows is served with beef :
After the beef has been boiling for two hours, take 1 pint
of the broth from it to use for the sauce. Peel and chop
a bunch of chives, a shallot, or two or three small green
onions, and put them over the lire in 1 pint of broth to
boil for an hour ; then add 1 table-spoonful of diy Mustard,
1 gill of vinegar, and a high seasoning of salt and pepper.
Stir the sauce until it is thoroughly incorporated, and
keep it hot until required for use.
(6) Put about 2oz. of butter into a stewpan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour, and mix them over the fire; pour in
1 breakfast-cupful of hot water, season to taste with salt
and pepper, and mix in 1 teaspoonful of Mustard pre-
viously moistened with a small quantity of vinegar. Stir
the sauce over the fire, and when it begins to boil it is
ready for serving. A few chopped capers or pickles may
be added if liked.
(7) Melt ‘2oz. of butter in a saucepan over the fire, then
dredge in 1 table-spoonful of flour and stir it until browned.
Mix 3 table-spoonfuls of brown Mustard to a smooth paste
with a small quantity of water, stir it into the flour and
butter, and add 1 breakfast-cupful of brown gravy, 1
wineglassful of vinegar, and a small quantity of salt and
sugar. Stir the sauce over the fire, and when it boils and
is smooth and of a creamy thickness it is ready for
serving. Two or 3 table-spoonfuls of finely-minced shallots
may be added to the sauce if liked.
Piquant Mustard. — Peel and slice an onion, put it in a
saucepan with two or three thinly-sliced cloves of garlic,
two bay-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of crushed peppercorns, a
few cloves, a sprig of tarragon, and 1 pmt of the best
vinegar; season with salt, and boil the whole together
for ten or fifteen minutes. Leave the vinegar until cold,
keeping the lid on the saucepan ; then stir in sufficient
Mustard to make a stiff paste, and pour the mixture into
small jars, which should be tightly corked and tied down
with paper. Mustard prepared as above may be kept
for a considerable time.
Spiced or Aromatic Mustard. — (1) Mix 2 table spoonfuls
of powdered Mustard with 1 teaspoonful each of flour and
sugar, and half the quantity each of salt, pepper, cloves,
and cinnamon, and stir them into a smooth paste with
boiling vinegar. Add a little salad-oil, and in a few
hours it will be ready for use.
(2) Peel two moderate-sized onions and cut them into
thin slices ; put them in a jar with four bay -leaves and
a few thin slices of garlic, pour over them 1 pint of
tarragon vinegar, and keep the jar closely covered for two
days. At the end of that time, turn all the above ingredients
into a saucepan, and boil them; strain the vinegar, return
it to the saucepan, mix in 2oz. of coarsely-crushed loaf
sugar, and boil it up again. Mix 1 teacupful each of
brown and yellow Mustard, i table-spoonful of salt, 1
teaspoonful of Jamaica pepper, and | teaspoonful of finely-
powdered cinnamon, and add the boiling vinegar, stirring
well with a wooden spoon until quite smooth. If too thick,
add more vinegar. Put the Mustard mixture into small
jars, over which pieces of bladder should be securely tied,
and keep in a cool place. In a fortnight’s time the
Mustard will be ready for use.
(3) Put 1 pint of vinegar in a saucepan with an onion,
a clove of garlic, h dessert-spoonful of crushed cloves, 1
table-spoonful of sugar, J table-spoonful of salt, two or
three bay-leaves, and a very small quantity each of
powdered cinnamon and black pepper. Boil the above
ingredients slowly for ten or fifteen minutes, then strain
the vinegar and mix it with sufficient Mustard to make a
smooth, creamy paste. Put the mixture into small jars
and keep it for a fortnight in a cool place before using.
MUSTARD and CHESS. — The first sprouting from
the seeds of the Mustard, combined with those of the
cress-seed, or by themselves, make a valuable addition to
our salads, especially those prepared for breakfast
service.
MUSTARD PICKLES. — See Pickles.
MUTTON ( Fr . Mouton; Ger. Hammelfleisch ; Ital.
Castrato; Sp. Carnero). — The term itself is derived from
the French mouton, having been introduced to us by
the Norman conquerors. Second only in importance to
beef is the flesh of the sheep. During the first few
months of its existence the flesh is known as lamb, and
some years ago Mutton was not considered to be in its
prime until it was four or five years old ; but a four-
year-old wether is now rarely heard of, for the cost of
keep for so long would render the meat too expensive,
considering that the quality would be so little superior
to that which was killed two or three years earlier. By
successful breeding farmers are now able to produce
sheep which reach maturity in foiu-teen months. Welsh
Mutton differs in this particular because these sheep are
of such a roving disposition as rarely to accumulate fat ;
but when fattened in the uplands of Herefordshire,
Worcestershire, and Shropshire they gain flesh rapidly,
and are then prime for killing. Southdown Mutton is very
famous for quality, and next to it come Leicestershire,
Lincolnshire, Cotswold, and Shropshire Mutton. These
are large sheep and are second to the Southdown in
quality. The flesh tastes rather strong of the wool, a
peculiarity of long-woolled sheep, especially at certain
times of the year when the wool is longest. Mutton
imported from Germany and Spain are sometimes palmed
off upon unwary cooks as first-quality Mutton, but in
reality the flesh of these foreigners is inferior to our
second qualities.
No flesh differs so much as Mutton, and this depends
not only upon the breed, but also upon the sex, age,
and pasture. Ewe-Mutton, in the autumn, when not
more than two years old, is often nearly as good as
wether-Mutton under similar conditions. Ewes that
have had two lambs are more often killed than those
which have only had one. They are therefore more
aged, and if it were possible to get a glimpse of the
teeth the jaws would be found to hold eight, each fully
developed. In the younger sheep the eight are not all
developed. Ram-Mutton is sometimes sold to the unini-
tiated, but it will always prove coarse, woolly-flavoured,
and tough. The colour of the flesh is deep bluish-red, and
the fat is spongy. The udder on the belly between the
legs is the distinguishing characteristic of ewe-Mutton,
the wether having a similar lump of marrowy fat. Good
Fig. 1213. Sheep Divided into Joints.
Mutton is in season all the year round, although at its
lowest ebb in autumn, the meat then partaking some-
times of the woolly taste before described.
The carcase is cut up by the butcher (see Fig. 1213)
first into quarters (1, 2) and a head (5) ; this latter
is usually included amongst the offal. Then we have
two fore-quarters and two hind-quarters or haunches.
The haunch is again cut up into leg (6) and loin (7), the
double loin without the legs forming a saddle (see Fig.
1215). The fore-quarter is cut up into shoulder (4) and
breast (3), and the neck and scrag end (8). The various
qualities and values of these parts are fully described in
the following receipts. See Boning, Carving, &c.
Baked Breast of Mutton. — Sew up a breast of Mutton in
a very thin cloth, put it into a stewpan, pour over sufficient
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <l-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
971
Mutton — continued.
cold water to nearly cover it, and let it stew very gently,
allowing ten minutes to each pound, counting from the
time the water begins to simmer. Then take it out of the
saucepan and out of the cloth, put it in a baking-dish,
rub it over with warm dripping or butter, sprinkle some
flour over, and bake it for half-an-liour, basting frequently
with its own broth. Five minutes before taking it out of
Fig. 1214. Baked Breast of Mutton.
the oven strew fine dry breadcrumbs thickly over it, put
little bits of butter here and there, and let it brown.
Put it on a hot dish, garnish with slices of beetroot (see
Fig. 1214), and serve.
Baked Minced Mutton Kebobs. Trim off all the skin and
most of the fat from 31b. or 41b. of raw Mutton, and finely
chop the lean part. Slice and chop two large onions, put
them in a stewpan with 2oz. or 3oz. of fresh butter, and toss
them about over a brisk fire for a few minutes, then put
in the minced Mutton, 4 teacupful each of well-washed
currants and skinned pi .tachios, and a dust of salt, pepper,
and powdered cinnamon. Stir the mixture over the fire till
the meat is partly fried. Cut a piece of caul-fat into
rather small squares, and put an equal quantity of the
mince on each ; wrap them up to any shape fancied, and
lav them on a baking-dish. Put them into a quick oven
till nicely coloured, then place on a hot dish and serve
without delay.
Baked Mutton Cutlets. -Procure the required quantity of
cutlets from the best end of a neck of Mutton, trim off
nearly all the fat, chop the bones off to within lin. of the
meat, and scrape the remaining pieces clean. Dust the
cutlets over on both sides with salt and pepper, lay them
in a pie-dish, pour some nicely-flavoured beef gravy over,
cover with a flat dish, and bake in a slow oven. In about
two-hours-and-a half, or when the chops are tender, boil
a sufficient quantity of potatoes, and when done drain
and mash them with butter, seasoning with salt. Put the
potatoes in a heap in the centre of a hot dish, smooth
them over with the prongs of a fork, and brown them under
a salamander. When cooked, arrange the chops in a circle
round the potatoes, mix 4 wineglassful of vinegar and a
small quantity of mushroom ketchup with their cooking-
liquor, strain it round the cutlets, and serve.
Baked Mutton Cutlets with Apples. — Prepare the cutlets
taken from a neck of Mutton by trimming off the fat
and ragged pieces, season with sait and pepper, lay them
in a pie-dish with some thinly-sliced apples and one or
two finely-chopped onions, pour in sufficient clear gravy
to cover them, place a flat dish over, put it in a moderate
oven, and bake the cutlets until tender ; they will require
about three-quarters-of-an-hour’s cooking. When done, serve
all together. A tureen made of fire-clay answers capitally
for this dish.
Baked Ribs of Mutton a la Mallorquina (Spanish). — Put
a lump of butter into a mortar with a few boned anchovies
and any dried sweet herbs, pound them well together, and
work in a little lemon-juice. Take a piece of ribs of Mutton,
separate the ribs without actually parting them at one end,
put them into a baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven,
basting with butter as required. When well done, take
them out, open the ribs, put a piece of the anchovy butter
between the ribs, and serve. This is an excellent dish for
those that like the fishy flavour.
Baked Saddle of Mutton. — Cut off all the fat and skin
from a saddle of Mutton, chop oft' the ends of the ribs,
and remove the cord -and veins along the back. Wipe it
dry with a cloth, and nib well inside with salt. Roll the
Mutton — continued.
flank under on each side, tie it three or four times across
the middle (see Fig. 1215), sprinkle well with flour, salt, and
pepper, and put it hi a baking-dish with the inside
upwards so that the fat will be thoroughly cooked. Cover it
Fig. 1215. Saddle of Mutton prepared for Baking.
over with a piece of well-buttered paper and cook until
the fat is brown and crisp and the meat quite done. Put
it on a dish, and serve.
Boiled Boned Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. — Select
a shoulder of Mutton that has been hung until tender,
put it in salt for a couple of days, bone it, and sprinkle
over with mace and pepper. Place one-dozen-and-a-half of
oysters over the inside of the joint, roll it up, tie tightly,
and put it into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover ;
add an onion and a few peppercorns, put the lid on the
pan, and cook until thoroughly done. Put six oysters into
a saucepan with 1 pint of gravy, cook them gently until
done, then thicken the liquor with a little butter rolled in
flour. When done, put the meat on a dish, remove the
string, pour over the sauce, and serve.
Boiled Breast of Mutton. — Put a breast of Mutton into
a saucepan with water, place the pan over the fire, and
boil until the meat is quite tender. Take it out when
done, remove all the bones, and cover with a mixture of
chopped parsley and thyme, breadcrumbs, and salt and
pepper to taste. Put it on a dish in front of a clear fire
to brown, pour round a good gravy with capers in it, and
serve.
Boiled Breast of Mutton with Caper Sauce. — Trim off
the fat from a breast of Mutton and bone the joint. Chop
fine 3 table-spoonfuls of sweet herbs and a couple of sprigs
of parsley, mix them up with 4 table-spoonfuls of bread-
crumbs, and sprinkle over sufficient salt and pepper to
taste. Put a layer of this mixture over the boned meat,
roll it round, and tie with string. Place it in a saucepan
of water over a moderate lire and boil very slowly for two
hours or so until the meat is done ; put it on a dish,
remove the string, pour over a little caper sauce, and serve
with more of the sauce in a sauceboat.
Boiled Leg of Mutton. — Put a leg of Mutton into a sauce-
pan with sufficient water to cover, and to every gallon of
water add 2 table-spoonfuls of salt and l teaspoonful of
pepper. Put the pan on the fire, boil quickly for ten
minutes, skim well, and then remove it to the side of the
fire where it will cook just at boiling-point (fifteen
minutes for every pound weight is sufficient, but if it is a
large leg weighing 81b. or more it will not require quite
so long). Put it when done on a dish and serve with some
mashed turnips in a separate dish, or a little caper sauce
may be either poured over it or served separately. It may
also be boiled with a little rice if desired, and garnished
with parsley. Currant jelly should also be served with it.
Boiled Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce. — Prepare a leg
of Mutton by cutting oft the shank-bone, trimming and
making an incision at the first joint ; put it on to boil in a
stockpot filled with slightly-salted cold water, and add a
bouquet garni and one carrot cut up. Boil for an-hour-
and-a-quarter, and serve with 1 pint of hot caper sauce,
made by putting 1 pint of hot liollandaise sauce into a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
972
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
saucepan with 1 handful of capers, and heating thoroughly
for five minutes without boiling.
Boiled Leg of Mutton with Oyster Stuffing. — Remove
the beards and uneatable parts from a dozen or so large
oysters, parboil them, chop them up with boiled parsley,
onion, and sweet herbs, and add the yolks of two or three
hard-boiled eggs. Make five or six incisions in the fleshy
part of a leg of Mutton, put in the stuffing, tie it up in a
cloth, and boil in a saucepan with plenty of water for
from two-hours-and-a-lialf, according to the size. When
done remove the cloth, put the leg on a dish, and serve
at once.
Boiled Mutton Chops. — Cut off some chops from the neck
end of Mutton and put them into a pan with a little salt
and pepper dusted over them and sufficient water to cover.
Place the pan over the fire, cover it, and let the con-
tents simmer until done, then take them out, drain, and
wipe them dry on a cloth ; put a small piece of butter, salt,
and pepper over them, and lastly cover with egg beaten
quite stiff. Sprinkle with pounded crackers, and put them
in a pan in the oven to brown.
Boiled Mutton Ham. —Take a cured Mutton ham, wash it
in cold water, and soak overnight. The next day drain it,
put it over the fire in enough cold water to cover, let the
water heat to the boiling-point, and then boil the ham
gently, allowing twenty minutes for each pound. Half-an-
liour before the ham is done, boil with it half-a-dozen
peeled turnips or a head of cabbage first washed in cold
water ; or serve it simply with a dish of plain boiled
potatoes.
Boiled Neck of Mutton. — Saw down the chine-bone of a
neck of Mutton, strip the ribs half-way down, take out
the end bones, and turn the llap under ; this will give the
neck a good appearance when cooked. Put it into a
saucepan of water, and boil ; when done, take it out, drain,
cover it thickly with well-seasoned breadcrumbs made into
a mass with warmed butter and yolk of egg, place the
Mutton in a Dutch oven, and roast in front of a clear fire
until well browned. Serve hot.
Boiled Shoulder of Mutton. — Rub a shoulder of Mutton
well with salt and pepper, and stuff it with a forcemeat
of herbs made without eggs ; roll it up into an oval form,
and tie into shape. Put it into a saucepan with a
little broth or water, and add two sliced carrots and
onions, a little fine herbs, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper
to taste. Put the pan over a slow fire or in a slack oven
and cook gently, basting frequently. When it is nearly
done remove the lid, if it is being cooked in the oven, and
let it brown on the top. Take it out, put it on a dish,
cut the bindings off, and keep it hot. Remove the fat
from the gravy, boil it down to a strong glaze, pour it
over the meat, and serve with tomato sauce poured round
it or a cucumber sauce in a sauceboat.
Boiled Stuffed Breast of Mutton. — Put a knife in between
the bones and flesh of a breast of Mutton, open it, dust over
inside with salt and pepper, and stuff it with a mixture
of fresh pork, breadcrumbs, parsley, onion, and mushrooms
all finely chopped and seasoned with salt and pepper to
taste. Sew up the cut, put it into a saucepan with some
broth, and boil it gently until done. Take out, put it on
a dish, and serve with a little Robert sauce.
Braised Boned Haunch, of Mutton. — Bone the leg to the
first joint and the loin of a haunch of Mutton cut to the
height of the first ribs, sprinkle the inside with salt, and
fasten it with string in a long shape. Cover the bottom
of a long saucepan with sliced vegetables and trimmings
of bacon, sprinkle slightly with salt, and pour over about
1 h pints of broth. Put the pan over a quick fire, reduce
the liquor to a glaze, then pour in more broth to cover it ;
boil up quickly, remove the pan to the side of the fire, put
hot ashes on the lid, and leave it where its contents can
simmer gently for about five hours or so according to the
age of the animal from which it was cut. When the
meat is done, put it on a baking-sheet, add 1 wineglassful
of white vine to the liquor, boil it up, take off all the
Mutton — continued.
fat, pass it through a fine sieve into another saucepan,
reduce it quickly to half-glaze, and add a little brown or
tomato sauce to thicken it. Put the haunch of Mutton
on a dish, take away the string, cut the Mutton along
the top into slices, but without removing them, put a
ruffle on the bone, and serve with a garnish of small
glazed onions put in heaps. Pour a little of the sauce
round the dish, and send up the rest of it in a sauceboat.
Mushrooms may be used instead of the onions if preferred.
Braised Boned Leg of Mutton. — Bone a leg of Mutton
on the cushion side only, sprinkle it over with salt and
pepper, tie it up with thin string, and saw the bone off
short. Put it into a saucepan with a little lard or melted
bacon, place the pan over a slow fire, and fry it to a
delicate colour, turning frequently ; take it out and put it
on a dish. Cover the bottom of the pan with some onions
and carrots chopped small, sprinkle the leg over with salt
and pepper, cook for twenty minutes longer, and then add
sufficient broth to moisten it to half its height. Put the
pan over a slow fire, and when the liquor is well reduced
add a little more (so that the Mutton can boil short of
liquor). When the meat is cooked, take it out, put it on
a dish, and reduce the liquor to half-glaze. Remove all
the fat, add a little wine, and thicken with kneaded
butter ; mix all thoroughly, pour it over the leg through a
strainer, and serve.
Braised Boned Leg of Mutton a la Milanaise. — The
following receipt is a favourite dish of the M ilanese, but the
Italians of Rome and Naples are not so fond of it, as they
consider it has a woolly flavour. Remove the knuckle
from a leg of Mutton, and bone it as follows, from the
thick end down to the first joint : Chop it off at the first
joint, push in a knife near the joint to loosen the flesh,
leaving the tendons and gristle on the bone ; then commence
at the small or tail end and scrape away the fat from the
backbone and follow the bone up until the joint is arrived
at, continuing in this way until all the bone is out.
The cavity may be stuffed and sewn up at the thin end.
Then bring the edges together at the upper end, pushing
all the flesh inside, and sew the skin tightly together, which
will give a rectangular form of solid meat and stuffing.
To cut it straight down to the bone to take it out would
spoil it and a lot of the juice or liquor would escape, and
if sewn up it would be very unsightly, but by this way
the juice is preserved and when the meat is cold it does
not become dry or hard. Fill the cavity with a mixture
of ham, bacon, mushrooms, garlic, egg, pepper, and bread-
crumbs soaked in broth and squeezed quite dry. Sew up
the place where it was cut so that the stuffing will not
fall out, and put it in an earthenware stewpan with some
fat bacon cut up and melted. Put the pan over the fire and
fry the contents gently until it is of a light colour, turning
frequently. Sprinkle over salt and pepper, add a few vege-
tables cut in slices, and pour in 1 wineglassful each of
white wine and broth. Cover with a round of paper, put
some hot ashes on the lid, and braise for four hours or so,
adding a little more broth every now and then, and "when
done put it on a dish and keep hot. Add a little gravy
or broth to the liquorin which it was cooked, boil it up,
strain it, remove all the fat, and reduce quickly to half
glaze, thickening it with a few table-spoonfuls of tomato
Tig. 1216. Braised Boned Leg of Mutton A la Milanaise.
sauce, keeping it quite light. Pour a little of the sauce over
the leg, put the remainder in a sauceboat, garnish with
potato croquettes and Brussels sprouts in piles (see Fig.
1216), and serve very hot.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
973
Mutton — continued.
Braised Boned Shoulder of Mutton. — Take out the hone
from a shoulder of Mutton (see Boning), letting the stump
remain for a handle. Lard it with strips of fat hacon, and
sprinkle over chopped herbs, salt, and pepper. Roll it up,
and sew together with a trassing-needle. Place a few slices
of bacon at the bottom of a braising-pan, put in the
shoulder of Mutton, and add the shoulder-bone, a few carrots
and onions, a little thyme and laurel-leaves, two heads of
celery, and a little stock. Cover with slices of bacon and
then with paper, put the pan over a slow lire, and simmer
gently until done. Take it out, remove the string, put the
Mutton on a dish, and serve with a garnish of glazed onions.
Braised Breast of Mutton. — (1) This should he partly boiled
the day before wanted, in order to more readily free it of
its superfluous fat; cut it into pieces, put them into a
saucepan, dust over with salt and pepper, and lay over
them three onions cut in slices. Place the pan over
a slow fire and let the meat cook slowly for about three
hours, when it should be done ; its own juices and fat
will be quite sufficient moisture. Put the meat on a dish,
and serve ; the fat may be poured into a basin for further
use.
(2) Put a few slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a
saucepan, and add a few tarragon-leaves, young onions, a
little mixed spice, and salt and pepper to taste. Put a
breast of Mutton, not too fat, on the top, place the pan
over the lire, and when it begins to cook pour over 1 pint
of stock ; remove the pan to the side of the fire (or over
a very slow one), and cook very gently until done. Put
the breast of Mutton on a dish, pour over the strained
liquor, and serve very hot.
(3) Put a breast of Mutton into a braising-pan with a
few carrots and onions cut in slices, sprinkle over salt and
pepper, and add a little mixed spice. Place the pan over
the lire with hot ashes on the lid, and cook the contents until
thoroughly done. Take the Mutton out, remove all the bones,
and put the meat in between two plates or pieces of hoard
with a weight on the top ; let it remain until cold and
flat. Cut it up into various shapes, brush them over with
yolk of egg, dip them into breadcrumbs, then into clarified
butter, and then into breadcrumbs again. Put them on a
baking-sheet in a quick oven to brown, place them on a
dish, and serve with Italian or brown haricot sauce.
Braised Haunch of Mutton.— The haunch should be cut
to the height of the first ribs ; bone the loin and the
leg to the first joint, and season the meat inwardly with
salt and pepper. Put some slices of vegetables and trim-
mings of lard in an oblong stewpan, put in the meat, dust
a little salt over it, and pour in I i pints of broth. Put
the stewpan over the fire, and boil the liquor till reduced
to a glaze; then pour in some more broth to the height
of the Mutton, and let it boil up. Place the stewpan by
the side of the fire, put some live embers on the lid, and
cook the Mutton for five hours, or more if it is not very
young. When the haunch is cooked, take it out of the
stewpan, mix 1 tumblerful of white wine with the cooking-
liquor, boil it up, skim well, then strain it through a fine
hair sieve into a smaller stewpan; boil it quickly till
reduced to half-glaze, then thicken with a small quantity
of brown sauce. Remove the string from the Mutton, and
cut it in slices across the top, leaving them in their places.
Fix a paper raffle round the bone, place the Mutton on a
hot dish, brush it over with a paste-brush dipped in melted
glaze, and garnish with groups of glazed button-onions.
Pour part of the sauce in the dish round the meat and
serve with the remainder in a sauceboat.
Braised Leg of Mutton.-(l) Put a leg of Mutton into a
braismg-pan with some slices of fat bacon on the top and
underneath it, and add a bay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs,
four carrots, two onions, a few meat-bones, and 3 gills of
gravy. Put the pan over a wood fire with hot ashes on
the cover, and cook the contents slowly until done. Take
out the leg, put it on a dish, and glaze ; remove the fat
from the gravy, strain it, pour it over, and serve.
(2) Put a very tender leg of Mutton into a braising-pan,
and when it is nearly done take it out and cut it into
very thick slices without taking them off the bone. In
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, .
Mutton — continued.
the meantime prepare a stuffing of chopped parsley, shallots,
chives, powdered ginger, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, and a
large quantity of butter ; spread this between the slices,
and put the leg in a saucepan. Pour in 1 wineglassful of
champagne, and some of the stock in which it was cooked.
Put the pan at the side of the fire, cover the lid with
hot ashes, and simmer gently for thirty minutes or so.
When done, put it on a dish, skim off the fat from the
liquor, add a little orange-juicc, pour it over, and serve hot.
(3) Prepare a stuffing of bread and pork, chopped fine,
seasoned highly with pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, and
pounded cloves. Bone a leg of Mutton and stuff it with
the forcemeat. Place some skewers at the bottom of a
saucepan, lay the Mutton on them to keep it from burn-
ing, put in two sliced onions, turnips, and carrots, and a
little chopped celery, and sprinkle a large quantity of salt
on the whole, with a little powdered cloves, mace, and
pepper. Put enough water in the pan to cook the contents
slowly for four or five hours, without burning. When done
take out the meat, and put it in a covered dish by the fire.
Skim off all the fat from the liquor, add 1 tumblerful of
port wine thickened with flour, also a little currant jelly ;
bring it to the boil, pour over the meat, and serve.
Braised Leg of Mutton in Polish Style. — Cut oft' the
thin end bone of a leg of Mutton that has been hung until
quite tender, and put it into an earthenware pan that is
just deep and large enough to hold it. In the meantime
fry three chopped onions, the same of celery roots and
carrots in a frying-pan with some fat, and pour in 3 wine-
glassfuls each of water and vinegar and boil gently ; then
add a little parsley, thyme, basil, bay-leaf, sweet herb-, two
cloves of garlic, and a few peppercorns and cloves, and
continue to boil for twenty minutes longer. lake the pan
off the fire, and when the mixture is nearly cold pour it
over the leg of Mutton and let it remain for twenty-four
hours or so, turning frequently. Take out the leg, drain
well, wipe it dry, and put it into a moderate oven for
thirty minutes on a roasting-pan with a large piece of
butter. Pour over 1 pint of sour cream and half the quan-
tity of the stock (marinade stock). Put the pan back
again to complete the cooking, basting the leg frequently.
When done put it on a dish; strain the liquor with which
it was basted and reduce it over a quick fire until thick.
Pour it over the leg of Mutton, put a ruffle of paper on
the end of the hone, and serve.
Braised Legs of Welsh Mutton a la Jardiniere.— Cut off
four small legs of Welsh Mutton, remove the hone, and
lard them on the inside with large strips of fat bacon and
lean ham. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and tie them
round into shape. Put them in a braising-pan with 1 tea-
cupful of brandy, pour over sufficient mirepoix to cover,
place the pan in the oven, and let the contents simmer
gently until the meat is done. In the meantime, have ready
a large socle of rice on a dish, put the legs on it, glaze
them, and garnish around the base with cauliflowers,
asparagus, peas, carrots, &c. Strain the gravy, remove all
Fig. 1217. Braised Legs of Welsh Mutton 1 la Jardiniere.
the fat, reduce it quickly with some Spanish sauce, and
serve it separately in a sauceboat. The base of the socle
should also be garnished with the vegetables so as to hide
it completely from view. See Fig. 1217.
Braised Mutton under a Basin. — Cut some Mutton into
small pieces about the size of an egg, rinse them in plenty
of cold water, and dry on a towel ; rub each piece over
well until finely-chopped onions, pepper, salt, and mixed
ces, c ice., referred to, see under their special heads.
974
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton— continued.
spices, put them in a basin, cover with a cloth, and
leave them for a few hours. Turn the basin containing
the meat upside down on to a strong baking-dish, place
the dish on a trivet over a charcoal fire, and cook the
meat for an-hour-and-a-lialf. When the gravy has run out,
put in the baking-dish, around the basin, 1| breakfast-
cupfuls of well-washed rice, and pour in 1| pints of clear
stock broth. When the rice is diy, baste it with more
broth till it is tender. When cooked, take the baking-tin
off the fire, lift the basin off the meat, pin a paper ruff
round the tin, and serve while very hot.
Braised Mutton Chops. — (1) Cut the chops off a neck of
Mutton without flattening them, and remove a little of the
flat bone at the end, also a little of their fat. Put them
into a stewpan with the pieces cut off them and the
parings of three onions, a bunch of parsley, a few carrots
and green onions, a little spice and salt, and 4 or 5 table-
spoonfuls of good broth to braise them. When they are
quite done take them out, put them on a strainer to drain,
and cool. Pass the liquor through a fine sieve, and reduce
it to a glaze ; place the chops in this and dish in a
mirotin way with the onion sauce poured into the centre.
(2) Take a piece of neck of Mutton and cut off some
chops, making them a little larger than for broiling ; pare
them and put them into a stewpan where they can lie
quite flat. Put one or two onions, a few carrots, a small
bunch of parsley, a few green onions, sweet herbs, 4 or 5
table-spoonfuls of stock, and a little salt into a stewpan,
place it on the fire, and let the ingredients steam until
done. Remove the roots, add a little glaze, and put it
over a good fire to reduce. When it has become a glaze,
put in tlie cutlets and let them settle in it ; turn them
over, take off the grease, and let them drain. Serve hot.
Braised Mutton Cutlets. — Take about 311). of cutlets, trim,
and put them into a pan to braise. When done, take
them out and put them on a board with a weight on top
to keep them in shape while they are getting cold. Trim
them again, mask on one side with 6oz. of quenelle force-
meat, and then dip them into a mixture of finely-minced
tongue and truffles. Place them in a saucepan with 3
gills of brown sauce, cover with buttered paper, and cook
very slowly for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Put a border of
mashed potatoes on a dish, place the cutlets on it, garnish
the centre with strips of tongue and gherkin, and the
white of egg mixed with them, pour the sauce round, and
serve.
Braised Mutton Cutlets with Onions. — Trim the cutlets
and lard them with thin strips of ham and fat bacon. Put
the trimmings of the ham, bacon, and cutlets into a stew-
pan with a sliced onion and carrot and a few sprigs of
parsley ; season the cutlets with salt and pepper, put them
in the stewpan, moisten to height with stock, and cover
with a few slices of bacon and a sheet of buttered paper.
Put the lid on the stewpan and let the contents simmer
at the side of the fire. When the cutlets are tender, take
them out, pass their cooking-liquor through a fine hair
sieve into a smaller saucepan, and boil it quickly until
thickly reduced. Peel and boil a sufficient quantity of
young onions in salted water until tender, then drain them
well. Put loz. of butter in a saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire until mixed, then
pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of cream and nearly 1 breakfast-
cupful of milk ; stir the sauce until boiling, season to taste
with salt and pepper, add the onions, and move it to the
side of the fire. Coat the cutlets thickly with the reduced
liquor, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the
onion sauce in the centre, and serve.
Braised Mutton Cutlets with Onion Sauce. — Trim the
cutlets taken from a neck of Mutton, and chop off some of
the fiat bone at the ends. Put the trimmings in a stew-
pan with one sliced onion, two carrots, a bunch of parsley,
and a small bunch of green onions ; put in the cutlets,
dust them over with salt and pepper and a small quantity
of spice, moisten to a third of their height with white stock,
and braise them. When nice and tender take the cutlets out
of the stewpan, drain well, and lay them on a dish to cool.
Strain their cooking-liquor through a fine hair sieve into a
Mutton — continued.
small saucepan and boil it until reduced to a glaze. Mask
the cutlets on both sides with the glaze, placing them in
the saucepan to get hot again ; arrange them on a hot
dish, and serve with an onion sauce.
Braised Mutton Cutlets with Vegetable Puree.— Cut
some cutlets off' a neck of Mutton ra tlier thicker than is
usual for broiling, trim them neatly, and lay them flat
in a stewpan, together with two onions, two or three small
carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small bunch of
green onions ; season with salt and pepper, and moisten to
about a third of their height with white stock. Braise the
cutlets gently at the side of the fire until tender, then take
them out, strain the cooking-liquor, and boil it quickly until
reduced to a glaze. Turn the cutlets over in the glaze,
masking them well, then arrange in a circle on a hot
dish ; fill the centre with a puree of any kind of vegetables
preferred and serve while very hot. The fat should be
skimmed off the liquor as much as possible before it is
reduced to a glaze.
Braised Rumps of Mutton. — Put half a dozen Mutton
rumps into a saucepan with a little water and stew them
gently for an hour. Take them out, cut in halves, and
put them into a small braising-pan with 1 breakfast-cupful
of gravy and add 1 wineglassful of Madeira or any other
white wine, an onion stuck with six cloves, a little cayenne,
and salt. Put the pan over the fire, cover it closely, and
co >k until they are quite done and tender. Take out the
meat and onions, thicken the gravy with butter rolled
in flour, and add the juice of half a lemon and 1 table-
spoonful of browning. Boil this up until it is perfectly
smooth and rather thick, then put in the rumps ; boil up
again, lay them on a dish, and serve hot with scraped
horseradish for garnish, and pour the sauce over the meat.
Braised Saddle of Mutton. — (1) Take out the kidneys
from a saddle of Mutton, remove the skin covering the
fat of both fillets, and cut off the flaps or skirts and roll
them up underneath. Tie the meat round with twine and
put it into a braising-pan over slices of fat bacon laid at
the bottom and add an onion and carrot cut into slices.
Sprinkle over salt, pour in 1 pint of broth, and reduce
over a clear fire ; then pour in water to half its height
and braise slowly. When nearly done, take it out, drain
it, pass the liquor through a conical sieve, add a little
white wine, skim off the fat, put it with the Mutton into
a saucepan, and complete the cooking at the entrance of
the oven, basting frequently and letting it get a good
colour. Take it out when done, put it on a dish, garnish
with mashed vegetables, and serve with the strained liquor
in a sauceboat.
(2) Remove the skin and fat from a saddle of Mutton
without ribs, but recovering the two fillets ; cut the flaps
straight on both sides, take nut the kidney and nearly all
the fat, break the backbone at various places, and roll
the flap underneath, keeping it in position with string.
Put some vegetables cut in slices and a little minced trim-
ings of bacon at the bottrm of a braising-pan, put in the
meat, sprinkle it over with salt and pepper, and pour in
sufficient broth to nearly cover it. Put the pan over a
quick fire and cook until it is about three-parts done, then
pour in £ pint of white wine, remove the pan to the side
of the fire, or put it in the entrance of the oven with hot
ashes on the lid, and braise. It must be basted frequently,
adding more stock as the liquor evaporates. Skim well,
and when the meat is quite done (it will take about three
hours or so), take it out, drain on a baking-sheet, remove
the string, glaze it, and put it at the entrance of the oven
to keep hot. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, add
a little brown sauce and a few table-spoonfv.ls of Madeira
wine, boil it up, and carefully skim. Take out the two
fillets of the saddle, cut them transversely into rather
thin slices, and put them back into their places. Put the
saddle on a dish, garnish it on both sides with some
onion pirree, and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Braised Stuffed Leg of Mutton.— Remove the bone from
a leg of Mutton, carefully cut out all the meat, leaving the
skin° intact ; reject the fat and mince the lean together
with lib. of fat bacon, and season with chopped parsley
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
975
Mutton— continued.
and shallot, also salt and pepper to taste. Replace this
mince in the skin, sew it up on the under-side, put it into
a braising-pan with a little gravy made from the hones
and trimmings, add also two or three large slices of veal,
sliced carrots and onions, a few slices of fat bacon, a
bunch of parsley, and braise slowly from three to four
hours. When done put the leg on a dish, strain the liquor
into another pan, reduce it to a glaze, brush over the
Mutton with this, and serve with plenty of French beans
separately.
Broiled Briskets of Mutton. — Soak a couple of briskets of
Mutton in cold water for a few hours, take them out,
drain them dry, trim neatly, and remove the bone adhering
to the sinews as well as the skin at the end of the
ribs. Fasten both together with string, put them into a
saucepan of salted water, add a few mixed vegetables, and
partly boil. Take the briskets out, remove all hones, put
them between two boards with a weight on top, and let
them remain until quite cold, so as to have them perfectly
flat. Trim and dust them over with salt and pepper, roll
them in warmed butter, sprinkle with cooked parsley and
fine lieibs, and cover with breadcrumbs. Broil them slowly
on a gridiron over a clear fire for twenty minutes, turning
them frequently. When done, put them on a dish and
serve with piquant sauce in a sauceboat.
Broiled Mutton Chops. — (1) Cut the chops from the loin
or best end of the neck and remove some of the fat if
necessary. Dust over with a little pepper, put them on a
gridiron over a good clear fire, turning two or three times,
and cook evenly. When done, put them on a hot dish,
sprinkle with a little salt, put a small lump of butter on
each, and serve very hot. They may be garnished with
sliced okras and stuffed egg-plants.
(2) Cut the chops from a loin of Mutton, trim them
neatly, and remove all the fat. Lay them on a dish with
some sliced onions, a few cloves, peppercorns, and sweet
herbs, a small quantity of salt, and sufficient oil and
vinegar in equal quantities to cover; put another dish
over, and let them marinade for ten hours, turning occa-
sionally. Afterwards broil the chops on a gridiron over
a clear fire, and when cooked lay them on a hot dish on
an ornamental dish-paper; finely mince three or four
shallots, fry them in butter until a light brown, spread
over the chops, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with
a sharp sauce in a sauceboat.
(3) Cut off some selected chops, and broil them (see i
Broiling) on a gridiron over a clear fire ; put them into
a pan, cover tightly, and simmer for a-quarter-of-an-hour ■
at the side of the lire. Take the chops out, and put them
on a dish with a piece of butter and a little salt and
pepper on each. In the meantime, peel and finely chop
some tomatoes, season them with a small piece of butter,
salt, pepper, and sugar, and with a spoon place a little on
the top of each chop. Sift a little pounded biscuit or
breadcrumbs over, and serve hot.
(4) Brewers’ Style — The chops should be cut from
the end of a saddle of Mutton, using the whole breadth
of it ; beat them lightly with a cutlet-bat, and dust them
over on both sides with salt and a small quantity of
cayenne pepper. Brush the chops over with a paste-brush
dipped in melted lard, lay them on a gridiron over a clear
but not too brisk fire, and broil them, turning them I
occasionally. Work well in with about 2oz. of butter 1
table spoonful of finely- chopped parsley and 1 table-spoonful
of chopped shallot, and when cooked arrange the chops on
a hot dish, spread the butter over them, flavour with the
juice of a lemon, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Chops a la Bretonne. — Pare six Mutton
chops, season with 1 table-spoonful of salt and pepper, and
pour a few drops of oil over each. Broil four minutes on
each side, arrange them on a dish, and serve with £ pint
of puree of white beans, mixed with 2 table-spoonfuls of
hot meat glaze.
Broiled Mutton Chops a la, Provencal. — Flatten and pare
neatly six fine, thick Mutton chops, and season them
with 1 pinch of salt and £ pinch of pepper ; oil them
slightly with sweet-oil, and then either boil or cook them
Mutton — continued.
in a saute -pan for two minutes, on one side only, and lay
them aside to get cold. Spread over them the garnishing il
la Provencal to about Jin. in thickness, and sprinkle with
breadcrumbs mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese.
Carefully place the chops in a well -buttered pan, pour a
little clarified butter over, and put them into a very hot
oven for five minutes, or until of a good colour. Serve
with l pint of hot veloute sauce in a sauceboat.
Broiled Mutton Chops a la Soyer.— Take 51b. of saddle
of Mutton, cut and saw it crosswise into six pieces, flatten,
pare, and trim them ; season with 1 table-spoonful of salt
and 1 teaspoonful of pepper. Broil them for six minutes
on each side, then place them on a hot dish, and serve
with a garnishing of 1 pint of fried potatoes placed round
the dish.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets.— (1) Season some cutlets, dip them
first into melted butter, then roll them in breadcrumbs.
Broil them over the fire for about eight minutes, and place
them on a dish round a heap of potato balls piled up in
the centre.
(2) Cut off the required number of chops from a loin of
Mutton, and form them into cutlets by cutting off the
thickest end of each bone, and about lin. off the top of
the bone. Put them into a stewpan in which a little
butter has been previously melted, season with salt, and
stew for a short time, but not until they are brown.
Chop some parsley very fine, add a little thyme, and mix
together with sufficient yolk of egg to coat the cutlets
when cool, then sprinkle them with breadcrumbs seasoned
with 1 pinch of cayenne pepper. Broil over a clear but
not brisk fire. When brown, dish them, squeeze a little
lemon- juice over, or the dish in which they are served
may lie garnished with thin slices of lemon cut into
halves or quarters.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with French Beans. — Procure
the best end of a neck of Mutton, and cut it into slices
tin. thick ; remove a greater part of the fat, trim them to
a nice shape, and* beat lightly with the cutlet-bat. String
the required quantity of French beans, put them whole
into a saucepan with plenty of boiling salted water, and
boil until tender. When cooked, drain off the water, put
in a large piece of butter, a moderate quantity of finely -
minced parsley, the juice of half a lemon, a dust of pepper,
and let them remain at the side of the fire until the
cutlets are ready. Lay the cutlets on a gridiron, and
Fig. 1218. Broiled Mutton Cutlets with French Beans.
broil them over a clear, brisk fire, turning them when
done on one side. When cooked, arrange them in a circle
on a hot dish, on which the beans have been piled in the
centre (see Fig 1218), and serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with a Macedoine of Vege-
tables.— Take twelve cutlets of equal size, trim off some of
the fat, dust them over with salt and pepper, and dip
them into warmed butter. Broil them in front of a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
976
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
moderate 'ire, frequently turning, and when they are done
put some paper frills on the bones, and place them in a
circle on a dish on which a macedoine of vegetables of
different kinds and shades thickened with bechamel sauce
and reduced with a little glaze has been piled in the
centre. Serve with a boatful of half-glaze separately.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Mushroom Sauce. — Take
the cutlets from the best end of a neck of Mutton, saw
the bones off short, trim them to a nice shape, removing
the gristle and fat, and beat them flat with a cutlet-bat.
Mix with the beaten yolk of an egg, in small quantities,
some finely-chopped parsley, thyme, and marjoram, also
some grated breadcrumb, and season to taste with salt,
pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Cover
the cutlets with the mixture, and wrap each one sepa-
rately in a sheet of buttered paper. Trim off the stalks
from J pint of mushrooms, wash and chain them, and put
them into a stewpan with -1 pint of nicely-flavoured gravy,
and boil gently until tender. Put loz. of butter into
a saucepan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir it over
the fire until brown, then strain in the gravy from
the mushrooms, and continue stirring until it boils. Put
the cutlets on a gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire,
turning them when done on one side. When cooked,
remove the paper and arrange the cutlets in a circle on a
hot dish, put the mushrooms in the centre, pour the sauce
round, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with New Carrots a la Maitre
d’Hotel. — Trim some rather thick cutlets from the best
end of a neck of Mutton to a nice shape, leaving very
little fat on them. Peel some new carrots and cut them
into halves, unless they are very small ; boil them in salted
water until tender, drain, and put them into a stewpan
with a large piece of butter and some finely-minced parsley ;
dust them over with pepper and a small quantity of caster
sugar, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon ; toss them
about over the fire until nicely glazed, then move them to
the side and keep hot. Broil the outlets over a clear
but not too fierce fire, turning them when done on one
side. When the cutlets are cooked, dredge them over with
salt, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, each cutlet
overlapping the other, pile the carrots in the centre, and
serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. — Trim the
cutlets to a nice shape, and roll them in butter which has
been slightly warmed ; dust over with salt and pepper
on both sides, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire,
and broil, turning them when done on one side. When
cooked, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour some
thick tomato sauce in the centre, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Steak. — Cut a leg of Mutton in halves,
sawing through the bone, and take a slice off each about
fin. thick ; sprinkle them on both sides with salt and
pepper, and put them on a gridiron over a clear fire to
broil. When done, put them on a dish, pour over a little
mushroom ketchup or Harvey’s or Worcestershire sauce, and
serve very hot.
Broiled Mutton flteak with Tomato Sauce.— Cut off a
slice about Hin. thick from the thickest part of a leg of
Mutton, sawing through the bone. Beat it a little with a
cutlet-bat to make it flat and even, put in a deep dish,
sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, cover it well with
oil and parsley-leaves, and let it remain for several
hours to macerate, so as to make the meat quite tender.
Put it on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil gently
for twenty-five minutes, basting and turning it frequently.
When quite done, put it on a dish, pour tomato sauce
round it, and serve.
Broiled Neck of Mutton. — Put a neck of Mutton into a
saucepan with a little water and boil it slowly until it is
nearly done. Take it out, cover it with breadcrumbs and
sweet herbs, moisten with beaten egg, and brown it in
a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Put it on a dish, pour
brown gravy round, and serve.
Broiled Neck-of-Mutton Cutlets.— Saw off the chine-bone
from a neck of Mutton and cut off the chops, together
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces,
Mutton — continued.
with about lin. of meat from the long bone ; remove
the fat and gristle, and flatten the chops a little with a
cutlet-bat. Put them into a basin with a little milk, and
cover vdth breadcrumbs pressed on as thickly as possible;
then dip them into warmed butter and again into bread-
crumbs, dust them over with salt and pepper, and broil
over a clear fire until done. Put a pile of mashed potatoes
on a dish, lay the cutlets round it, and serve.
Carbonnadoed Mutton. -The name carbonnades, from this
dish, is given to that part of a neck of Mutton from the
point where the cutlets end and the loin commences. Select
four carbonnades, chop them in halves, remove the bone
from between the. larger fillet and the smaller one with-
out taking out the minion fillet, trim off all the fat, and
re-cover the loins. Lard the loins with strips of fat bacon,
fold the skirt underneath, tying it round with string, put
them into a saucepan covered at the bottom with vege-
tables cut into slices, a few cloves and peppercorns, and a
small bunch of sweet herbs ; sprinkle them over with salt,
and pour in 1 wineglassful of good broth. Reduce the.
moisture over a brisk fire to half-glaze, and then pour
in sufficient broth and white wine to nearly cover. Boil
quickly for six minutes, then remove the pan to the side
of the fire, cover it, and braise the loins, basting fre-
quently with the liquor. When done, take them out,
glaze them, remove the string, put them on a dish, pom-
over the liquor mixed with a little tomato sauce, and serve
very hot.
Carbonnadoed Mutton with Cream.— Saw off the spine-
bone from three carbonnades of Mutton, cut off the skin
and fat from the minion fillet, double the skirt part under-
neath, keeping it in its place with wooden skewers. Put
some vegetables cut in slices at the bottom of a sauce-
pan, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs and a few
peppercorns and cloves ; put in the meat, and pour over
sufficient broth to cover it. Place the pan over a sharp
fire, boil quickly for eight minutes or so, then remove
it to the side, cover the meat with paper, put the lid on
the pan, place hot ashes on it, and complete the cooking-
very gently, basting and turning it frequently. When
done, take the carbonnades out, drain them, remove the
bone between the loin and minion fillet, and put them
between two dishes to cool and flatten. Cut them in
halves, trim them square, cutting away all the fat from
the larger fillet, and dip them into some good bechamel
sauce reduced with a little of the stock. Place them on
a baking-sheet to cool, and let them remain for thirty
minutes; then dip them into a mixture of well-beaten eggs
and clarified butter, roll them in breadcrumbs, and put
them into a moderate oven in a well -buttered sautd-pan,
to give them a good colour, basting them frequently with
a brush dipped in clarified butter. When done, and quite
hot, put them on a dish and serve with mashed turnips
for a garnish.
Casseroles of Mutton.— Put some large boiled potatoes
into a saucepan and beat them well up with loz. of
butter, the yolks of three eggs, and a little grated nutmeg ;
sprinkle over a little salt and pepper. Work this mass
vigorously over the fire for a few minutes and then rub
it ° through a sieve ; lay it in a deep flattened heap on
a buttered baking-sheet, and when cold, cut it into shapes
the size of a patty-pan with a round biscuit-cutter. Brush
these over with egg and cover them with breadcrumbs;
cut down into the top surface a little way with a smaller
round cutter to form the lid of the patty. Plunge them
into boiling lard and fry till light brown; take them
&c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
977
Mutton — continued.
out of the fat, drain them, lift out the centre, scoop out
the inside, and fill them up with cooked minced Mutton
moistened with a little gravy. Replace each small round
to form a lid, put them again in the oven for a few
minutes, and serve very hot on an ornamental dish-paper
laid on a dish. See Fig. 1219.
Chaudfroid of Mutton Cutlets.— Trim some cutlets from a
neck of Mutton, having a hone to each one, and put them
in the oven for an hour to braise, until the meat is quite
tender. Take them out, put them on a hoard with a
small weight on the top and leave them to get cold.
Trim them neatly, and dip them in 1 pint of good
glaze until they assume a smooth, glazed appearance
Take 1 pint of aspic jelly, cut off a few croutons from it
to put round the cutlets, and chop up the remnants and
put them on a dish ; arrange the cutlets in a circle and
fill up the cavity in the centre with a macedoine of carrots,
potatoes, peas, cauliflower, green haricot beans, French
beans, cucumber, and beetroot. Cut up the vegetables into
small pieces of equal size, boil them in separate saucepans,
take them out, plunge them into cold water to preserve
their colour, and mix well (with the exception of the beetroot)
with £ pint of mayonnaise sauce. Put the beetroot in the
dish last, as it is liable to discolour all the other vegetables
if mixed with them. Decorate the end of each bone with
small frills of paper, and serve.
China Ckilo. — Finely mince about 2ilb. of loin or neck of
Mutton without much fat ; peel and chop a moderate-sized
onion ; wash a lettuce, trimming off the outside leaves, and
shred it finely. Melt 6oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in
the above ingredients with 1 h pints of green peas, season
with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper,
and moisten with 3 breakfast-cupfuls of weak stock or
water. Leave the stewpan over the fire until the contents
are on the point of boiling, then move it to the side, cover
with the lid, and simmer gently for two-hours-and-a-half.
At the end of that time have ready prepared on a hot dish
a border of boiled rice, turn the Mutton, &c., into the
centre, and serve.
Cold Boiled Mutton served with Tinned Tomato Sauce.
— Trim off the fat from about 111), of cold boiled Mutton,
and cut the lean into slices ; season with salt, pepper, and
a small quantity of cayenne, lay them on a dish, and
baste with loz. of warmed butter. Put loz. of butter into
a stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir it over the
fire until well mixed, then put in i breakfast-cupful of
stock, and continue stirring until it boils. Mix 1 pint of
tinned tomatoes with the boiling stock, season to taste
with salt and pepper, add 1 teaspoonful of moist sugar,
and boil the whole for three or four minutes longer. Drop
the slices of Mutton in the sauce just before serving so as to
make them hot.
Cold Mutton Cutlets. — (1) Cut part of a neck of Mutton
into cutlets, trim them to a neat shape, removing all the
fat and cutting the hone quite short, and lard them with
thin strips of bacon. Cover the bottom of a braising-pan I
with a slice or two of fat bacon; put in the cutlets with
a few slices of carrots and turnips, one sliced onion, and
a bunch of sweet herbs. Pour in 1 wineglassful of white
wine and a small quantity of rich gravy, and season to
taste with salt and pepper. Braise the cutlets gently until
tender, then drain them, put them on a dish with another
pressed over them, and leave until cold. Strain the cook-
ing-liquor through a fine hair sieve into a small sauce-
pan, and boil it until reduced to a glaze. When the
cutlets are quite cold, trim them again and coat them
with the glaze. Arrange them on a dish over which has
been spread a fancy-edged dish-paper or a folded table-
napkin, garnish with a few neat sprigs of well-washed
parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of cold tomato sauce.
(2) Trim some neck-of-Mutton cutlets, free them almost
entirely from fat, cut the bones off short, and lard with
fdlets of bacon. Line a braising-pan with a slice of fat
bacon, a few slices of carrots, onions, and turnips, put in
the cutlets with a hunch of sweet herbs, salt and pepper
to taste, ami moisten with a small quantity of gravy, also
1 wineglassful of white wine. Stew them gently until
Mutton — continued.
tender, then drain and press them between two plates until
cold. Strain the cooking-liquor and boil it until reduced
to a glaze. When quite cold, trim the cutlets again, and
brush them over with it ; lay them on a dish over which
has been spread a fancy dish-paper, garnish with crofttons
of aspic jelly and sprigs of chervil, and serve.
(3) Remove the spine-hone anil rib-bones from some neck-
of-Mutton cutlets, leaving them 3in. long. Beat them
lightly with a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and sprinkle on both
sides with salt and pepper ; put them into a frying-pan
with some clarified butter, and fry on both sides. When
nicely browned, strain off' most of the fat from the cutlets,
and pour over them about & teacupful of gravy, having a
small piece of glaze about the size of a walnut and a few
drops of lemon-juice added. Leave the cutlets over the
fire for two or three minutes, then take them out of the
pan and boil the gravy until reduced to a glaze ; coat the
cutlets on both sides with it, and let them get cold. Well
wash 31b. or 4lb. of fresh spinach, and boil it ; when tender,
turn it into a colander, pour some cold water over, and
press firmly to squeeze dry. Chop the spinach finely, put
it into a stewpan with about J teacupful of white sauce
and toz. of butter, season it with salt, a small quantity
of grated nutmeg and caster sugar, and stir it over the
lire for a few minutes. Next pass the spinach through a
fine hair sieve, and make a border of it on a round dish.
Reel an equal quantity of carrots and turnips, slice them
rather thickly, and cut them into small squares. Boil the
carrots and turnips separately in salted water, and when
tender turn them into a basin of water where they may
remain until cold. When ready, drain the vegetables well and
turn them into the centre of the border of spinach, arrange
the cutlets round the dish against the spinach, and serve.
Cold Mutton Sliced and Fried with Bacon. — Cut some
slices of cold Mutton, dredge them with flour, and season
each slice with pepper, salt, and a few drops of mush-
room ketchup. First fry some rashers of bacon, then fry
the slices of cold Mutton in the fat, and arrange them on
a hot dish, laying a rasher of bacon next to each slice of
Mutton.
Collared Breast of Mutton.— (1) Take out the bone from a
breast of Mutton, rub it well over with yolk of egg,
sprinkle with grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, salt, and pepper,
and over this again a mixture of chopped capers, bread-
crumbs, parsley, and sweet herbs. Roll up the breast as
tightly as possible, and boil it gently in a saucepan of
Fig. 1220. Collared Breast of Mutton.
water for two hours ; then put it into a pickle composed
of the liquor in which it was boiled, vinegar and salt, and
leave it for several days. Take it out, drain, place it
on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve. See Fig. 1220.
(2) Remove the skin from a breast of Mutton and take
out all the hones and gristle; lay it flat on a board
or table, sprinkle it over with ground mace and cloves,
and season with salt and pepper to taste. Put 1 handful
of breadcrumbs into a basin, and mix hi five washed and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
4 B
978
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — con tinned.
boned anchovies, the grated peel of half a lemon, and the
bruised yolks of three hard-boiled eggs. Cover the meat with
this mixture, roll it up, and tie with very wide tape.
It is then ready to cook, and may be boiled, roasted, or
baked, according to taste.
Collops of Cold Mutton.— Cut some very thin collops
from a loin of Mutton near the leg, and remove the sinew ;
sprinkle them over with mace, salt, pepper, chopped
parsley, thyme, and shallots, and put them into a saucepan
with 1 breakfast-cupful of gravy, a little lemon-juice, and
a little butter rolled in Hour. Simmer gently on the lire
for live minutes. Put them on a dish, and serve at once.
Comettes of Mutton. — Mince the cold Mutton and mix
with it some oysters or mushrooms also finely minced.
Put loz. of butter into a stewpan with 2 table-spoonfuls of
flour and mix well over the fire ; then pour in gradually a
sufficient quantity of highly-seasoned stock, and reduce it
to a thick sauce. Add the minced ingredients to the sauce,
and when hot turn all into a dish and leave until cold.
Make some puli paste and roll it out as thinly as possible;
divide it into rather small pieces, putting a lump of the
mince, about the size of a walnut, on each, and roll them
iuto small triangular patties. Brash the patties over
with a paste-brush dipped in beateli yolk of egg, and dip
them in uncooked vermicelli. Put them into the oven and
bake until of a pale golden colour. When cooked, arrange
the comettes on a hot dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, and serve.
Curried Mutton. — (1) Chop a large onion into small pieces
and fry it in a pan with 1 table-spoonful of butter. Mix
1 table-spoonful each of curry powder and Hour in a basin
together with I teaspoonful of salt, and when thoroughly
incorporated add to the onion in the pan and pour in
gradually 1 pint of water or stock. Chop 21b. of lean
Mutton into small pieces, put them into a frying-pan with
a little fat, fry till of a light brown, add to the curry,
and simmer gently until tender. Put the meat on to a
dish with a border of rice roun I it, an I serve hot.
(2) Cut l|lh. or 21b. of Mutton into small pieces, put them
into a frying-pan with a little fat, and fry till light brown.
Chop up two onions, fry and stir them in with the meat,
add 3 table-spoonfuls of curry powder and 2 table-spoonfuls
of curry paste, pour over _ a little gravy made from the
bones and trimmings, thicken with a little butter rolled in
flour, and cook gently over a moderate lire until done. Turn
it out on a dish, and serve with a border of boiled rice.
(3) Indian Style. — Cut 21b. of fat Mutton into pieces
about ljin. square. Put 5oz. of fat into a stewpan,
make it hot, add twelve onions cut up into thin slices,
fry them until they are brown, and take them out. Put
into the stewpan 4 teaspoonfuls of ground onions, 1
teaspoonful each of ground chillies and coriander-seeds,
h teaspoonful of ground ginger, j teaspoonful of ground
garlic, ten ground peppercorns, five ground cloves, and
live or six ground cardamoms. Fry them, stirring con-
tinuously, until they are quite brown, add 1 breakfast-
cupful of milk thickening, two or three blades each of
bay-leaves and lemon-grass, £ teacupful of water, then the
cooked onions, after being finely chopped, and the meat.
Cover the pot, simmer for from an hour-and-a-half to two
hours, take out the blades of lemon-grass, turn the curry
out on to a dish, and serve.
Curried Mutton Forcemeat Balls. — Put 21b. of Mutton
cut from the leg into a mortar and pound it to a pulp,
then mix in 1 teaspoonful each of pepper, salt, and chopped
sweet herbs, 2 table-spoonfuls of fine breadcrumbs, a well-
beaten egg, and sufficient gravy made from the bones and
trimmings of the Mutton to form the whole into a mass.
Make it into halls about the size of a large walnut, and
roll them well in breadcrumbs. Put 4oz. of fat into a
frying-pan, make it hot, and add 1 table-spoonful of ground
onions, \ table-spoonful each of ground turmeric and
chillies, h teaspoonful each of ground ginger and pepper-
corns, and | teaspoonful of ground garlic. Fry these until
they colour, sprinkling over about 1 table-spoonful of water.
Put in the forcemeat balls, sprinkle over 1 dessert-spoonful
of salt or sufficient to taste, and fry them until they are
Mutton — continued.
- brown ; pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of Mutton broth, cover
the pan, and simmer gently over a clear but slow fire
Fig. 1221. Curried Mutton Forcemeat Balls.
for about two hours. Turn the curry out on to a dish,
and serve with a border of boiled rice. See Fig. 1221.
Devilled Mutton. — Cut some cold Mutton into thick slices,
trimming off' most of the fat, then gash it across in several
places with a sharp knife ; mix 1 teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper with 2 table-spoonfuls of black pepper, and rub the
mixture well over the slices of Mutton ; lay them on a
gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning when done
on one side. Put teacupful of roast-meat gravy into
a small saucepan with an equal quantity of port wine,
£ table-spoonful each of Worcestershire, Reading, and
anchovy sauce, or the strained juice of half a lemon and a
small quantity of finely-shred lemon-peel. Place the sauce
over the fire until boiling, arrange the pieces of broiled
meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve. It will be found an improvement
if the gravy can be slightly flavoured with onion.
Devonshire Squab Pie. — Cut about 21b. of the neck of
Mutton into chops, shorten the bone, and remove a little
of the fat. Take 21b. of sour apples, remove the core,
peel, cut them up into slices, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a pie-dish. Sprinkle a little sugar and
ground allspice over, then put a layer of chops seasoned
with a little finely-minced onion, salt, and pepper, and so
on, in layers, until all the meat is used up. Place an
ordinary pie-crust on the top of the dish, pour in 1 pint
of water or gravy, and bake it in the oven for an-hour-
and-a-half.
Fillets of Mutton a la Compiegne. — Bone two fillets of
Mutton and raise the skin ; lay them in a deep dish, and
pour over a marinade made with warmed butter, olive
oil, and red wine, seasoned with salt and pepper. Let
the meat marinade for three or four hours, turning occa-
sionally, so that it may be seasoned equally. Afterwards
put it in a stewpan with the marinade, brown over a
slow fire, moisten with a small quantity of stock, and
keep simmering gently. In about two hours’ time, or when
the meat is tender, strain the sauce into a smaller pan
in which some flour should have been browned in butter,
add a small piece of sugar about the size of a pea, and
stir it over the fire until thickened and boiling. Place
the fillets on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish
with sliced truffles that have been stewed in wine, and
serve.
Fillets of Mutton ft la Minute. — Put some good strong
stock into a saucepan, reduce it quickly to a glaze,
and add a slice of fat bacon and as many fillets of Mutton as
required. Cover over with a piece of well buttered paper,
put the pan over a slow fire, and simmer gently for from
ten to twelve minutes, when they will be done and well
glazed, but care must be taken to prevent the bacon burn-
ing. Put the meat on a dish, add a little stock to the
liquor in the pan, warm it up, pour it over the fillets,
and serve hot.
Fricasseed Mutton. — Cut 21b. of the breast of Mutton into
large squares, sprinkle them over with flour and salt, put
them into a frying-pan with a little fat or butter, and
fry till brown. Then put them into a saucepan with an
onion cut in slices, cover with water, and simmer gently
until the bones can be easily removed. Skim off the fat
from the liquor after it has been strained, put it back in
the saucepan, and when boiling put in the boned meat
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
979
Mutton — continued.
and salt and pepper to taste. Add 1 pint of peas,
simmer gently for a-quarter-of-an-liour, turn out on a dish,
and serve. Macaroni cut into Jin. pieces, or the tops of
asparagus, may be used instead of the peas.
Fricasseed Mutton with Egg-Plant Fruit.— (1) Cut the
required quantity of Mutton into small pieces, place them
in a stew pan, and dust them over with salt and pepper ;
toss the pan about over the fire until it begins to make a
slight hissing noise, then put in Jib. of butter, and fry
until the meat is nicely browned. Trim and slice four
egg-plant fruit, rub them with salt, and leave them for
a few minutes to extract the bitter juice ; take the pieces
of meat out of the frying-pan, keep them hot, then drain
the slices of egg-plant fruit and fry them in the remain-
ing fat till well browned. Place the pieces of meat on a
hot dish, put the fried slices of egg-plant fruit in a circle
round it, and serve while very hot.
(2) Cut some loin of Mutton into small pieces and lay
them in a deep frying-pan, season with salt and pepper,
toss them about over the lire until their moisture has
evaporated, then put in a small lump of butter ami fry
them until nicely browned. Bake four good-sized egg-
plant fruit till tender, peel them, cut them into slices,
and lay them in a saucepan ; then put in the pieces of
meat and the remainder of the frying-fat, pour in 1 break-
fast-cupful of clear broth, put the lid on, and simmer at the
side of the lire for twenty minutes. When cooked, turn
the fricassee on to a hot dish, dust it over with salt and
pepper, and serve.
Fried Breast of Mutton with. Green Peas. -Cut a
breast of Mutton into small pieces of equal size, sprinkle
them over with flour, put them into a frying-pan with a
little butter, and fry until they are light brown. Add
a bunch of sweet herbs and one onion cut in thin slices,
pour in sufficient water to cover, and cook slowly over
a clear fire until the Mutton is tender. Put the meat
on a dish to keep warm, remove all the fat from the
liquor, strain it into a saucepan, and boil it ; add lqt.
of boiled green peas, and when they are quite hot and done
pour them with the liquor over the meat, and serve quickly.
Fried Fillets of Mutton. — (1) Cut off 21b. of cutlets from
the middle of a loin of Mutton, remove all the fat and
skin, and cut each one up into slices about Jin. thick ;
flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and dip them first into
beaten egg and then into sifted breadcrumbs. Dust them
over with pepper and salt, and let them remain for an hour
or so. Put some butter into a frying-pan, and when it is 1
hot put in the fillets and fry them first on one side and
then on the other until they are quite done and of a nice
brown colour. Place them on a dish, garnish with aspar-
agus, sea-kale, or cauliflower, and serve.
(2) Remove the fat from the inside lillets taken from
under a sirloin of Mutton, flatten them a little with a
cutlet-bat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with
yolk of egg, and dip them first into breadcrumbs and
then into warmed butter, and smooth over with a knife, j
Put them into a frying-pan with a very little butter and
fry them till a light brown colour; take them out when
done, place them on a sheet of paper to drain away the fat, i
and arrange them on a dish. Boil down quickly a little tarra- I
gon vinegar in a saucepan, add 4 table-spoonfuls of Spanish (
sauce and a little cayenne, pour over the meat, and serve.
Fried Loin-of-Mutton Cutlets. —Trim off nearly all the
fat from two cutlets (a chop will do, if cut from the bone
and split down the middle with a knife) ; dip first in a
Mutton — continued.
little egg and then in some highly-seasoned breadcrumbs,
put them into a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry
them first on one side and then on the other. Boil three
or four onions until they are tender, pass them through a
sieve, and replace them in# the saucepan in which they
were boiled, adding a small piece of butter and a little salt
and pepper. Mash this puree with a spoon until it becomes
quite thick, then put it on a dish with the cutlets over
it (see Fig. 1222), and serve.
Fried Marinaded Inside Fillets of Mutton. — Cut off
the inside fillets from four saddles of Mutton, lard them,
and put them in a basin with a marinade of vinegar,
onions, bay-leaves, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper, and
let them remain for about three hours. Take them out,
put them in a frying-pan over a few slices of fat bacon,
and fry them to a light brown. Take out when done,
glaze, and put them on a dish ; pour round a little sharp
brown sauce, and serve very hot.
Fried Minced Mutton. — Chop 2lb. of raw Mutton and
three peeled onions quite tine, then put them into a
mortar with an equal quantity of cooked rice and pound
them well. Season with salt and pepper and 1 table-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, stir in sufficient beaten
eggs to make a stiffish paste, work the mixture thoroughly,
then cover it with a cloth and leave it for an hour. Divide
into small, equal-sized portions, roll them round, and fry
them in butter till nicely browned. When cooked, drain
the balls, arrange them in a group in the centre of a dish,
and serve.
Fried Mutton Chops. — Prepare the same as for Broiled
Mutton Chops. Put them in a stewpan and cook ; when
done, the hot fat must be poured away and a few table-
spoonfuls of good stock, or water slightly warmed, and
1 table-spoonful of ketchup or any other flavouring added.
Boil this stock up after removing the chops, and either
pour it over them or serve separately.
Fried Mutton Collops. — Cut 21b. or 311'. of Mutton from the
leg into pieces about the size of an egg, make two or
three incisions on each piece, and beat them ; dust them
over with salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon, and rub a
small quantity of finely-minced onion over them. Leave
the pieces of Mutton for about an hour so that they may
be well incorporated with the flavouring. When ready to
cook them, put sufficient butter into a frying-pan, and
when it has melted place in the pieces of meat and fry
them, turning them over when browned on one side and
finishing the other. When cooked, drain the pieces of
Mutton, arrange them tastefully on a folded napkin or
fancy-edged dish- paper on a hot dish, garnish here and
there with a few neat sprigs of fried parsley, and serve.
Fried Mutton Cutlets. — (1) Put a carrot cut into strips
in a saucepan with water to cook. Take four mushrooms
and the same number of gherkins and truffles, cut them
into strips likewise, and put them in a stewpan. Place the
pan in the bain-marie to keep warm. Take some cutlets from
a neck of Mutton, and trim them. Mince finely two or
three slices of lean ham, and mix with some breadcrumbs.
Dust the cutlets over with pepper and salt, brush them
over with egg, and then dip them in the breadcrumbs.
Put them in a frying-pan with Jib. of butter, fry them to
a nice brown, put them in a circle on a dish with the
vegetables in the centre, and a little Spanish sauce
poured round, and serve.
(2) Take Jib. of fat bacon, cut it up, and fry it in a pan
for five minutes with Jib. of calf's or pig’s liver, one carrot,
one onion, a bunch of parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme tied
up in a muslin bag, one clove of garlic, one shallot, a
small blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. When the
liver is done take it out, pound it in a mortar, season with
salt and pepper, and pass it through a sieve. Take six or
seven cutlets, trim them, and fry them in a little butter
till done; take them out, put them under a weight until
cold, then place them on a flat dish and spread the liver
mixture and a piece of pig’s caul over them. Make them
hot in the oven, glaze, place them on a dish in a circle
on a border of cooked spinach or mashed potatoes, put
4 b 2
For details respecting Culinary Croces es, Utensils, Sauces, efcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
980
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
some of the macedoine in the centre, pour round a little
half-glaze, and serve.
(3) Take some cutlets from a neck of Mutton, trim them,
and beat them flat. Dip the cutlets into a thin batter
made of flour, a little salt, and cold water ; sprinkle them
with fine browned breadcrumbs, and fry quickly in boiling-
hot lard or clarified fat. Drain them on paper and serve
as hot as possible.
(4) Trim some cutlets taken from a neck of Mutton and
beat them flat. Shake a little salt and pepper over them,
dip them in well -beaten egg, roll them in a paper of fine
breadcrumbs till they are well covered, and fry in boiling
luff lard or clarified fat. Drain them on paper, arrange
upright and touching one another round a mound of mashed
potatoes, and serve hot.
(5) Take the cutlets from the best end of a neck of
Mutton, trim off a little of the fat, and shorten the hones.
Put a lump of butter into a flat stewpan, place it over a
brisk fire, and when melted put in the cutlets, previously
dusting them over with salt and pepper, and fry them
nicely on both sides. When tender, drain a little of the
fat oft', pour over the cutlets \ teacupful of Spanish sauce
and the strained juice of a small lemon, add a small piece
of glaze, and stir the whole at the side of the fire until
the glaze has dissolved, but do not let the sauce boil. Lay
the cutlets on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
(6) Cut off some cutlets, trim them into equal shapes, and
season them with salt and pepper. Put them first into
some well-beaten egg, then into breadcrumbs, and throw
them into a frying-pan with boiling fat ; they will take from
eight to ten minutes to fry. Put them in a circle on a
dish, pour some rich tomato sauce round them, and serve.
(7) Hindustani. — Cut off the required number of chops
from a neck of Mutton, trim oft' all the fat, and scrape the
ends of the bones ; wrap them singly in mashed potatoes,
Fm. 1223. Fried Mutton Cutlets (Hindustani Style).
brush them over with egg, or dip them in hatter, and fry.
Serve hot with tomato sauce. See Fig. 1223.
(8) Italian. — Trim some Mutton cutlets taken from the
neck end, dip them in egg first and then breadcrumbs,
put them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry. Put
a border of mashed potatoes round a dish, and place the
cutlets on them. Have ready some thin strips of tongue,
truffles, and macaroni, in equal quantities, and add to them
1 teacupful of white sauce. Mix well together, place them
in the centre of the dish, and pour 1 teacupful of good
brown sauce round, and serve.
Fried Mutton Cutlets a la Proven$ale.— Cut off about
31b. of cutlets from a neck of Mutton, trim, and fry them
in a little butter. When done, take them out of the
frying-pan, put them on a board with a weight on the
top, and let them get cold. Trim them again to an
equal size and shape. Put \ pint of white Soubise sauce
into a saute-pan, and add six mushrooms, one onion, one
shallot, half a clove of garlic, and salt and pepper to
taste. Place the pan on the fire and cook them for ten
minutes, remove the garlic, mix in the yolks of four
eggs and 1 table spoonful of parsley, and cook them well
until it becomes a thick paste. Spread this over the cutlets
when arranged on a dish on one side only, dust some
browned breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over,
and heat through in the oven. Put some gocd brown
sauce in a tureen, and serve.
Fried Mutton Cutlets a la Soubise. — Saw off the upper
rib-bones from the best end of a neck of Mutton, leaving
the cutlet-bones about 3iu. long. Saw off the spine-bone,
Mutton — continued.
cut off the cutlets, trim them, and with a knife remove
the meat from the end of the bone by scraping it, leaving
about tin. of bone showing. Arrange the cutlets in a
saute-pan, dust salt and pepper over them, put in loz. of
butter, and fry them to a good brown colour on each
side. Put the cutlets on a dish in a circle, pour some
Soubise sauce in the centre, and serve.
Fried Mutton Cutlets garnished with Haricot Beans. —
Take some cutlets from the best end of a neck of Mutton
and dip them first in egg and then in breadcrumbs.
Put them into a frying-pan with hot fat or melted butter
and fry them. Take 1 breakfast-cupful of haricot beans
and four onions (both well cooked) and put them in a
stewpan with loz. of butter, add pepper and salt to taste,
and put them over the fire, stirring well ; when quite hot
pass through a fine sieve, and add 1 teacupful of bechamel
sauce. Put the cutlets on a dish, place the beans, onions,
&c., in the centre, pour a little brown sauce or half-glaze
round them, and serve.
Fried Mutton Cutlets with Mushroom Puree. — Trim off
a little of the fat from twelve cutlets, brush them over with
a paste-brush dipped in beaten yolk of egg, and roll in
breadcrumbs ; brush them over again with the beaten egg,
breadcrumb them, and dip them in warmed butter and
more breadcrumbs. Melt a lump of butter in a frying-pan
or a flat stewpan, put in the cutlets, and fry them over a
brisk fire, turning when done on one side. When cooked
the cutlets should he well drained on a sheet of kitchen-
paper. Blanch lib. of mushrooms in water with a little lemon-
juice in it, drain, and chop them. Melt loz. of butter in
a stewpan on the fire, put in the mushrooms, and toss them
about for a few minutes. Pour \\ teacupfuls of bechamel
or veloute sauce over them, and boil gently for a few
minutes. When sufficiently cooked, rub the mushrooms
through a fine wire sieve. Pour the puree of mushrooms
in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets round, and
serve.
Fried Mutton Steaks (French). — Cut a neck of Mutton
into moderately thick slices, and trim them neatly ; put
them into a saucepan with a hunch of sweet herbs, two or
three small onions, a few peppercorns, and cold water to
cover them. Boil them for five minutes, then take the
steaks out and in their place stew the trimmings ; stew
until the liquor is well flavoured with them. Next strain
the gravy and skim off all the fat. Beat up the yolks
of one or two eggs, season some finely-grated breadcrumbs
with chopped sweet herbs, and roll the steaks first in
the egg and then in the breadcrumbs, coating them well
on both sides ; put them into a stewpan of boiling lard,
and fry until nicely browned. Put loz. of butter in a
stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir over the fire
until well browned, then mix in the strained gravy with
1 table-spoonful of vinegar and continue stirring over the
fire until boiling and thickened. Drain the steaks as free
from fat as possible, lay them on a hot dish, pour the
gravy round, and serve.
Fried Neck-of-Mutton Cutlets. — Take some cutlets, saw
away the chine-bone, and take away about lin. of meat
from the long bone. Cut off all the fat and gristle and
flatten them with the cutlet-bat. Take each one separately,
dip it first into egg and then into breadcrumbs, the latter
being highly seasoned with salt and pepper, put them
into a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry for six or
seven minutes. Boil some potatoes, mash them with a
little cream, add salt and pepper, form them into the
shape of a mound in the centre of a dish, arrange the
cutlets round, and serve.
Fried Shoulder-of-Mutton Cutlets. — Take two thin slices
from the lean under-cut of a shoulder of Mutton, and dust
them over with salt and pepper. Place a small piece
(about 4<>z.) of butter in a frying-pan, and when it is hot
put in the cutlets. Cook them slowly, turning them often,
and when done put them on a hot dish, pour over a
little thickened gravy, and serve.
Glazed Boiled Breast of Mutton. — Put a breast of Mutton
into a saucepan with some stock and boil it until thoroughly
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
the encyclopaedia of practical cookery.
981
Mutton — continued.
tender ; take it out, remove all the bones, sprinkle with
salt, put it between two plates or boards with a weight
on the top, and when cold cut it into pear-shaped pieces
about 3in. in length. Put them in a saute-pan with some
veal stock, warm thoroughly, and glaze ; place them on
a dish, and serve with half-glaze poured over.
Grilled Breast of Mutton. — Put a breast of Mutton into
a saucepan of water and boil it. When it is about half
done take it out, score it, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and rub it well over with yolk of egg ; then cover it
with minced fine herbs and breadcrumbs. Place it on a
gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until light brown and
cooked through. Put an onion, a little chopped parsley,
1 table-spoonful of capers, and four pickled cucumbers into
a saucepan with 1 pint of gravy, boil them quickly for
about live minutes, and add a little butter kneeded with
flour to thicken it. Put the breast of Mutton on a dish,
pour over the sauce, and serve hot.
Haricot Breast of Mutton. — Put a breast of Mutton into
a braising-pan with a few slices of onions, carrots, &c.,
and cook until done. Take it out, remove all the bones,
and when cold cut it up into shapes like hearts ; warm
each one separately in a little of the liquor, put them on
a dish, pour over brown haricot sauce, and serve hot.
Haricot Mutton. — (1) Remove the fat from the chops of a
loin of Mutton, put them into a frying-pan with two
onions cut into slices, and fry until the meat is a light
brown. Put a little flour into a breakfast-cupful of gravy
to thicken it, pour it over the meat, and cook slowly for
about forty-five minutes. In the meantime, put two
carrots, two turnips, and a small head of celery into a
saucepan of water and partly boil them. Cut the vegetables
into slices, put them into the pan with the meat, and
stew gently for twenty minutes longer. Add 2 table-
spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and 1 wineglassful of port
wine, boil up quickly, pour it on to a dish, and serve.
(2) Cut some pieces from a breast of Mutton, put them
in a saucepan with a little butter, and toss gently until
they are slightly coloured ; take out the meat, add a
little Hour to thicken the butter, replace the meat, and
add a little stock, one or two onions, a little thyme and
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, a bay-leaf, a little grated
nutmeg, and a few peeled potatoes. Put the pan on the
side of the fire, and cook gently until done ; skim carefully,
pour the whole on to a dish, and serve.
(3) Cut a neck or loin of Mutton into thin chops, trim
off a good part of the fat and flour them ; melt about
Joz. of butter in a stewpan over the fire, shake in a little
pepper and salt, and fry the chops in it, turning them
once till they are slightly browned. Then put into the
stewpan an onion or two, a small quantity of celery, and
some slices of boiled turnips and carrots fried. Cover the
bottom of the pan with the fried Mutt( n, over the Mutton
put a layer of the fried turnip and carrot, and if there is
more Mutton than will cover the bottom of the pan lay
another layer over the carrots and turnips, and cover it
with more fried slices of turnip and carrot. When all is
in, pour hi sufficient water to cover the meat, and let it
stew very gently for three hours. Just before serving
season the haricot with a small quantity of ketchup or
W orcestershire sauce.
(4) Cut some thin cutlets from the middle cf a loin or
neck of Mutton, hour them, put them into a stewpan,
and fry brown in a little butter ; pour off the butter, add
lqt. of boiling water, an anchovy, pepper and salt to
taste, a few slices of carrots and turnips, and let it simmer
gently for two-hours-and-a-half. Fifteen minutes before
serving, thicken it with flour and butter.
(5) Cut off eight or ten cutlets from a neck of Mutton,
leaving the bones short and removing a part of the fat,
and fry them in a small quantity of butter ; when well
browned, add 1 table-spoonful of flour, mix it well in, and
pour in lqt. of water. Cnt one or two turnips and carrots
into rather small pieces, put them with a few spring
onions into a frying-pan in which a little sugar and
butter have been melted, add a little parsley and two
bay-leaves, toss them over the lire for a few minutes, put
Mutton — continued.
them into the stewpan with the cutlets, and simmer
gently until all are done, taking care to remove the scum
as it rises. Arrange the cutlets in a circle on a dish, put
the vegetables in the centre, pour over the liquor, and
serve.
(6) Cut off' some of the end bones, trim the cutlets
neatly, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter,
and brown slightly on both sides ; take the cutlets out,
put in the same stewpan 1 table-spoonful of flour and
loz. of butter, and stir them over the fire until mixed
and browned, then pour in sufficient veal gravy to cover
the cutlets, season it highly, and stir until boiling. Put
the cutlets into the sauce with a few turned turnips, a
bunch of parsley and green onions, and stew them gently
until nearly tender. When cooked, place the cutlets in the
centre of a hot dish, garnish round with the turnips,
strain the sauce over them, and serve.
(7) Trim the cutlets from a neck of Mutton to a nice
shape, put their trimmings in a stewpan with a few slices
of carrots and onions, a bunch of green onions, and a bunch
of sweet herbs ; put in the cutlets, moisten to about half
their height with white stock, place the lid on the stew-
pan, and stew them gently at the side of the fire, or over
a very slow fire. Cut about a dozen small peeled turnips
into the shape of olives, blanch and drain them, put them
in a stewpan with 4 teacupful of white stock and 1 tea-
spoonful of sugar, and place over a very brisk fire until
all the moisture has reduced and the turnips are nicely
glazed ; they should be constantly tossed about. Move
the stewpan to the side of the fire, pour over the turnips
1 teacupful of bechamel sauce and \ teacupful of thick
cream, season with a small quantity of salt, and let them
simmer gently. When the cutlets are tender, take them
out of the pan, strain their cooking-liquor through a fine
sieve, and boil quickly until reduced to a glaze, then put
in the cutlets, and cover them with the glaze on both
sides. Arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the
sauce of turnips in the centre, and serve while very hot.
Hashed Mutton.— (1) Chop an onion, put it in a stewpan
with a lump of butter and fry until nicely browned, then
mix in 1 heaped table spoonful of flour and stir in about
£ pint of clear stock, 1 table-spoonful of vinegar, salt and
pepper to taste, and a small quantity of mixed spices. Stir
the sauce over the fire until boiling, then strain it through
a gravy-strainer and leave until cold. Cut some cold
Mutton into thin slices, trimming off' the skin and not
leaving too much fat ; put them into a stewpan with a
few sliced pickled gherkins, pour in the sauce, and leave
it to heat gradually at the edge of the fire. When ready,
turn the hash on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets
Fig. 1224. Hashed Muiton.
of toast or croutons of bread fried a golden brown in
butter (see Fig. 1224), and serve with a dish of mashed
potatoes.
(2) Cut the remains of some cold roast Mutton into neat
thin slices without much fat ; peel and slice two or three
onions, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and
fry until nicely browned. Drain the butter off the onions,
pour over them about 1 breakfast -cupful of clear gravy
freed of fat, and boil gently for a few minutes. Next put
in the meat with some lemon pickle and a moderate quan-
tity of walnut ketchup : colour the gravy with browning,
season to taste with salt and a small quantity of cayenne
pepper, and let the whole* simmer at the side of the lire
for five minutes. When ready, turn the hash on to a hot
dish, garnish with red cabbage, and serve.
(3) Peel and slice two moderate-sized onions, put them
in a stewpan with two or three thin rashers of bacon,
and fry until well browned. Dredge in some flour, mix in
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, < be., referred to, see under their special heads,
982
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
gradually about l pint of cold water, and stir it over the
lire until boiling and thickened. Strain the liquor into a
clean stewpan, put in the pieces of Mutton, which should
have been prepared, pour in a small quantity of Harvey’s
sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and let it
simmer at the side of the fire. Serve the hash on a hot
dish garnished with sippets of toast.
(4) Cut some slices of the lean of roast Mutton, trim off
all the skin and fat, season with pepper and salt, and
lay them in a pie-dish, scattering among them 4oz. of
sifted breadcrumbs and a small quantity of chopped parsley
and onion. Pour over them 1 table-spoonful of walnut
liquor or ketchup and 4 table-spoonfuls of good gravy ;
cut loz. of butter into small bits and scatter them over it,
cover with sifted breadcrumbs, and place more little bits
of butter over the top. Brown it in front of the lire or
in the oven, and serve hot.
(5) Cut some thin slices of Mutton, trim them nicely,
put them into a saucepan with 1 pint of broth or less
according to the quantity of meat, let it barely simmer
for a-quarter-of-an-hour, and then skim off' the fat. Add a
seasoning of pepper, salt, and mushroom ketchup, also a
small quantity of vinegar or strained lemon-juice, thicken
it with butter and flour, and serve hot.
(6) Cut some cold cooked Mutton into nice slices, trim off"
all the fat and skin, ami flour each slice on both sides.
Select some nice large mushrooms, trim and cut each one
into four pieces ; melt 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in
the mushrooms with a little stock, season to taste with
salt and pepper, and stew them gently. When the mush-
rooms are cooked, put in the pieces of meat and stir them
at the side of the tire until well heated, but do not boil
them. Turn the hash on to a hot dish, garnish with
sippets of toast, and serve.
Hashed Mutton au Gratin. — Proceed as for Hashed
Mutton a la Zingara, omitting the tomatoes and garlic.
Place the hash on a baking-dish, sprinkle with a few
breadcrumbs, spread a very little butter on top, and put
in the oven until of a good golden colour (it will take
from eight to ten minutes).
Hashed Mutton a la Zingara.- — Chop up two onions, and
fry them in a saucepan with loz. of butter for three
minutes, adding Hlb. of cooked and hashed Mutton, also
one fourth the quantity of chopped cooked potatoes. Season
with 1 table-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and h
saltspoonful of nutmeg. Also put in two raw tomatoes
cut up, 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a crushed
clove of garlic. Add 1 gill each of Spanish sauce and
broth ; mix all together, and cook for twenty minutes ;
then serve with 1 pinch of chopped parsley sprinkled over
the whole.
Hashed Mutton and Fried Eggs. — Cut some cold remains
of Mutton into nice-shaped pieces, trimming off the fat and
brown skin ; put them in a stewpan with a little well-
seasoned gravy, and warm. When very hot, stir some
tinned tomatoes in with them, turn the hash on to a hot
dish, garnish round with fried eggs and small crofitons of
bread that have been fried in butter, and serve.
Hashed Mutton with Poached Eggs. — Cut lib. or so of
meat from a cooked leg or loin of Mutton, trim off the
fat, and chop it into small pieces ; put them into a sauce-
pan with one dozen cooked mushrooms cut into dice,
sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to taste, cover over the
pan, and cook gently at the side of the fire. Put two or
three chopped shallots into a saucepan with l wineglassful
of Madeira, and add a bunch of parsley and fine herbs
and a few peppercorns. Put the pan on the lire, cover it,
and reduce the liquor to half its original bulk. Mix
in double its quantity of brown sauce and reduce again,
then add a little melted glaze, and pass the whole through
a very fine sieve. Pour it over the meat, warm the hash
up without letting it boil, turn it out on to a dish, and
garnish with eight or nine poached eggs, putting a piece
of fried bread cut in the form of a crescent between the
eggs.
Hung Mutton. — Place a leg of Mutton with the knuckle
end downwards, and cover the thick end with coarse brown
Mutton — continued.
sugar. Rub it well in and repeat it every day. so long as
it is required to hang, taking care to have it always well
covered with the sugar. If well hung it will last for
several days and can be roasted in the usual way.
Leg of Mutton a la Frovenqale. — Cut about twelve cloves
of garlic and twelve anchovies into fillets and lard a leg
of Mutton with them ; roast the Mutton in front of a
clear lire, keeping it well basted. Boil several cloves of
garlic, changing the water constantly, and when nearly
done, drain, and refresh them with cold water. Drain the
garlic again, put it into a stewpan with 1 breakfast-cupful
each of stock, gravy, and cullis, and boil until reduced to
a thick creamy consistency. When cooked, place the
Mutton on a hot dish, pour the sauce round it, garnish
with vegetables (see Fig. 1225), and serve.
Loin of Mutton en Papillote. — Saw the chine-bone off
the neck end of a loin of Mutton, trim it to a nice shape,
removing all the gristle and superfluous fat ; lay it in a
deep dish with plenty of finely-sliced carrots and onions,
some peppercorns, cloves, sweet herbs, and two or three
bay-leaves ; season with salt and chopped parsley, moisten
well with the best olive oil, and leave the meat in the
marinade for one day. Afterwards spread the marinading
vegetables and oil over a large sheet of paper, lay the
meat on them, and wrap the paper well round, binding it
in position with tape. Roast the meat in front of a rather
slow fire ; when nearly cooked, remove the paper and vege-
tables, and brown the meat. Peel some potatoes and cut
them into slices ; put a good-sized lump of butter in a
saute-pan, melt it, then put in the pot;] toes with some
finely-chopped parsley, and toss them over the fire until
lightly and equally browned. When cooked, place the
Mutton on a hot dish, and serve it with the potatoes.
Malayan Curried Mutton. — Wash a cauliflower, and pull it
into small branches. Put 2oz. of butter into a stewpan
with 1 heaped table-spoonful of curry powder, and stir
them over the fire until mixed, then put in two peeled and
chopped onions and one chopped sour apple. Fry them until
tender, then pui in the pieces of cauliflower with 1 pint of
fresh picked boiled shrimps, and stew them gently at the side
the fire for an-hour-and-a-half, shaking the saucepan con-
stantly and adding more butter if necessary. Put in some
slices of Mutton, allowing time for them to get hot through.
When ready, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, arrange the
slices in a circle on a hot dish, turn the cauliflower and
other ingredients in the middle, and serve very hot with
boiled rice on a separate dish.
Marinaded Leg of Mutton. — It is usual on the Continent
to cook Ardennes Mutton in the following manner, the
joints being small, and the flesh fine, delicate, dark, and
fragrant : Remove the sinew from a leg of Mutton by pulling
it, and put the leg into a deep oval dish. Pour over 1 pint
of cold, cooked marinade, and let it remain for six hours to
macerate, turning frequently. Take it out, drain, put it
into a roasting-pan with some lard, and place it in a
moderate oven to give a good colour to its surface. Remove
all the fat from the marinade stock, strain it, and pour
it over; cover the leg with paper and complete the cook-
ing, basting frequently. When it is quite done, take out
the leg, drain it, put a ruffle on the end, and place it on
a dish. Strain the stock into a saucepan, remove all the
fat, reduce it quickly to half-glaze, and thicken with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OE PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — co ntinued.
brown sauce. Let it remain on the fire for a few minutes,
add 1 table-spoonful of red-currant jelly, and when it lias
dissolved remove it from the fire, pour it over the leg of
Mutton, and serve.
Minced Mutton.— (1) Remove all the fat, skin, and gristle
from some cold cooked Mutton, chop it up very line, and
pour over Italian sauce, in the proportion of 1 pint to
every pound of meat. Put the saucepan containing this
over a clear fire, and warm up thoroughly without boiling.
Turn it out on to a dish, and garnish with poached eggs
or pieces of fried bread. It should he served very hot.
(2) Remove the fat and hard parts from a piece of cooked
leg, cut it into slices, and put them into a small saucepan.
In the meantime, put a little vinegar in a saucepan with
a few peppercorns and cloves and a hunch of sweet herbs,
place the pan over the lire, and reduce the liquor quickly
to one-third its original hulk, then add 1 teacupful of
gravy, boil for two minutes longer, thicken with a piece
of butter rolled in flour, pass it through a fine sieve into
the saucepan with the slices of Mutton, warm them
thoroughly without boiling, and turn the whole out on to
a dish.
(3) Trim off all the skin, fat, and gristle from about
lib. of cold Mutton, and mince the meat finely; put 2oz.
of butter into a stewpan with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour,
and stir them over the fire until browned ; next pour in
gradually 1 pint of stock, and add the meat with powdered
sweet herbs, salt, and pepper to taste. Stir the mixture
over the fire until boiling, then move it to the side and
stir in quickly the beaten yolks of two eggs, the strained
juice of half a lemon, and 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of finely-
minced parsley. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes on
a hot dish, turn the mince into the centre, anil serve.
(4) Cut some slices off a cold roasted leg of Mutton, and
mince them finely. Put loz. of butter into a stewpan
with 1 heaped table -spoonful of Hour, and stir them over the
fire until mixed and browned ; then put in the mince with
about 1 breakfast-cupful of good stock, season with salt
and pepper, and let it simmer gently for lifteen minutes,
stirring at the same time. Next put in a few sliced
pickled gherkins and a lump of butter. When cooked,
turn the mince on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets
of toast or crofttons of fried bread, and serve.
(5) Skin and chop very fine 6oz. of suet ; cut lib. of
meat from a cold roasted leg of Mutton, mince it very
fine, and add it to the chopped suet. Mix with this 1
breakfast-cupful of fine breadcrumbs, one chopped anchovy,
the beaten yolks of four eggs, a little pepper and salt, and
l pint of port wine ; when mixed, put the mixture into a
caul of veal, place it in a quick oven, and bake. When
done, turn it out of the caul on to a dish, pour brown
gravy over, and serve venison sauce with it.
(6) Put lib. or more of finely-minced Mutton in a sauce-
pan with 4oz. of butter, and stir it over the fire until
nicely browned ; then put in lib. of well-washed rice,
season with salt and pepper, pour in about lqt. of hot
water, put the lid on the saucepan, and let the contents
simmer until all the moisture is absorbed. Move the sauce-
pan to the side of the fire, and leave it for twenty minutes
or more with the lid on. Turn the pilau in the shape of
a dome on to a hot dish, and serve.
(7) Chop fine some slices of lean of a roast leg of Mutton,
add 1 breakfast -cupful of sifted breadcrumbs, 1 dessert-spoon-
ful of chopped parsley, a small quantity of chopped onion
and pepper, and salt to taste; mix all well together and
moisten with \ pint of good gravy and 1 table-spoonful of
vinegar. Put the mince into a baking-disli, cut loz. of butter
up small and scatter it over the top, add a layer of
sifted breadcrumbs, stick little bits of butter all over them,
and brown in front of the fire or in the oven.
Minced Mutton with Egg-Plant Fruit. — Cut about 21b.
of raw Mutton into small pieces, and finely mince them.
Peel and chop three onions very small, put them in a
frying-pan with 2oz. of butter, and fry for a few minutes ;
then put in the minced meat, season with salt, and con-
tinue the frying until the mixture is nicely browned,
stirring it occasionally. When almost done, add 2 table-
Mutton — continued.
spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley. Slice four egg-plant
fruit lengthwise, dust salt over them, and leave them for
ten minutes, or until the bitter juice is extiacted, then
put a layer of them at the bottom of a stewpan ; next
put in a layer of the mince, then a layer of egg-plant
fruit, and so on until all are used. Pour in about 2 In-
break fast-cupfuls of clear broth, put the lid on the saucepan,
and place it over the fire till the liquor boils ; then move
it to the side and let it simmer till the egg-plant fruit are
tender. When cooked, turn the mince over on to a hot
dish, being careful not to disturb the order in which it is
placed, and serve while very hot.
Minced Mutton Patties.— Line some buttered patty pans
with thin paste; fill them up with Hour or rice, put them
in a moderate oven, and bake. \\ hen done take them out,
remove the flour or rice, turn them out of the pans, and fill
up with minced cooked lean Mutton ; moisten with a little
gravy, warm them up in the oven, and when hot put
them on a napkin on a dish and serve with a garnish of
parsley.
Minced-Mutton Pies (Turkish Style).— Mince finely lib.
or 2lb. of raw Mutton, flavour it with salt, pepper, and
powdered cinnamon, or any other kind of spice, and if
liked with some finely-minced onions. Place a lump of
butter in a frying-pan, put in the minced meat when the
butter has melted, and fry it. When nicely browned,
keep it hot at the side of the fire. Put 21b. of Hour on a
table, make a well in the centre, put in a small quantity
of salt, then work in gradually sufficient water to make a
smooth paste, kneading it well with the hands. Divide the
paste into small portions, and roll them out very thin,
making them evenly round. Rutter a baking-sheet, lay the
pieces of paste on it, and bake them soft over a hot stove ;
brush half of the pieces over with a paste brush dipped in
warm butter, and sprinkle them with egg that has been
beaten up together with a small quantity of clear broth ;
spread the fried minced meat all over these rounds, cover
with the remaining pieces of paste, brush them over with
Fig. 1226. Minced-Mutton Pies (Turkish Style).
warmed butter, sprinkle with more beaten egg, and bake in
a quick oven till nicely browned. When done, arrange the
pastry on a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish with
parsley (see Fig. 1226), and serve.
Minced Mutton with Poached Eggs. — Trim off all the fat
and skin from some rather underdone Mutton, mince it
finely, put it in a stewpan with some strong clear gravy
perfectly free from fat, and season to taste with salt and
pepper and a moderate quantity of sweet herbs and spices.
Put the mince over a gentle fire, stirring it occasionally until
boiling, then move it to the side and stir in loz. of butter
that has been kneaded with a small quantity of Hour.
Poach the required quantity of eggs in boiling salted water,
and trim them neatly. Turn the mince on to a hot dish,
lay the eggs on the top, garnish with sippets of toast or
small crofttons of fried bread, and serve.
Mutton Balls (Turkish). — (1) Trim off the fat and skin
from some of the best parts of raw Mutton ; mince the
lean finely, mix with it a small quantity of powdered
cinnamon, salt, pepper, and onion-juice, work the mixture
with the hands until quite smooth, then divide and roll
it into small balls. Place 4oz. of fresh butter in a basin,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Sic., referred to, see tinder their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
984
Mutton — continued.
put in the balls, and baste them with 1 teacupful of
water. Stand the basin in a saucepan, pour round it some
hot water, taking care that it does not enter the basin,
put the lid on the saucepan, solder round the edges with
paste to keep it air-tight, and place it over a smothered
lire. In about two or three hours’ time the balls will be
ready, then turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(2) Finely mince about 21b. or 31b. of leg of Mutton, peel
and chop four onions, put them in a mortar, and pound
them to extract their juice. Mix the onion-juice and 1
teacupful of ground rice with the minced meat, knead it
well, season with salt and pepper, and divide it into
small portions, which roll into balls. Cover well with
finely-chopped parsley, and lay them side by side in a
saucepan. Moisten with 1 teacupful of clear broth and
the juice of a lemon, place the lid on, and cook slowly
at the side of the fire. When the moisture has some-
what evaporated, more broth should be added. When
the balls are cooked, arrange them tastefully on a hot
dish, and serve with as little delay as possible.
Mutton en Brochettes.— Cut a leg or some loin of Mutton
into small equal-sized pieces, rub them over with finely-
chopped onion, salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon, lay
them on a plate, placing another one on the top, and
leave them for a few hours. Cut lib. of tomatoes into
halves, put them in a mortar, and press them to extract
their juice, which pass through a fine hair sieve. Place
the pieces of meat on skewers, put them in front of a
brisk fire, and turn them often so as to brown equally,
basting them with the tomato-juice. When they are
cooked, put them on a hot dish, and serve while very hot.
If fresh tomatoes are not in season, take about 1 tea-
cupful of the liquor of preserved ones, strain it through a
fine hair sieve to free it of all pips, and mix it with 1
breakfast-cupful of water.
Mutton en Masquerade. — Take a half roasted shoulder of
Mutton, cut the skin off, and mince the meat, adding to it
a seasoning of pepper and salt and a few chopped oysters.
Mix a little good gravy with it, and put it back on the
bone in its original shape. Cover with sifted breadcrumbs
and brown well.
Mutton a la Prince of Wales. — Bone a shoulder of
Mutton, lay it on a deep dish, and sprinkle over 1 teaspoon-
ful each of bruised cloves, cardamoms, allspice, coriander-
seeds, and long peppers; baste it with 1 breakfast-cupful
of common claret and 4 breakfast-cupful of white wine
vinegar, and 2 or 3 table spoonfuls of salad-oil. Leave
the shoulder in the pickle for twenty-four hours. Put the
bones and trimmings in a saucepan with 2qts. of white
stock, and stew gently at the edge of the fire for several
hours until all the goodness is extracted, then strain the
stock, which should have been reduced to about half its
former quantity, into a basin, and when cold skim off all the
fat. When sufficiently pickled, drain the meat, roll it, fasten
with a skewer, put it into a saucepan with a few pieces of
carrot, turnip, and leek, and four or five dried champig-
nons, pour the stock of the bones over the meat, and
stew gently until tender. Soak |oz. of gelatine in red wine ;
when cooked, drain the meat and put it on a hot dish, strain
its cooking-liquor into a small saucepan, stir the gelatine
into it, and boil until reduced to a demi-glaze. Cut into
rings some boiled carrots and turnips, saut6 them in butter,
sprinkle over some chopped parsley, arrange them in al-
ternate order round the meat, pour the glaze over the
shoulder, and serve.
Mutton Broth. — (1) Wash 21b. of the scrag end of a neck
of Mutton, wipe it with a cloth, cut off the fat and skin,
scrape the meat off the bones, and chop it into small
squares. Put the meat into a saucepan with 3 pints of
water, and the broken bones into another pan with 1 pint
of water. Place the pan containing the bones at the side
of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently until wanted.
In the meantime put the pan with the meat over a quick
fire, boil it up, skimming frequently, and when the scum
comes up quite white put in 1 pint of pearl bai ley and skim
again. Cut a carrot, turnip, and an equal quantity of celery
into small pieces, and fry them in 1 table-spoonful of butter
Mutton — continued.
for five minutes ; add them to the meat, and simmer gently
for about four hours, when the meat and barley should be
quite tender. Put 1 table-spoonful of flour into a sauce-
pan with 1 table-spoonful of butter, place the pan over
the fire, and when the flour is smooth add the strained
broth from the bones and pour it into the meat broth.
Add 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 salt-
spoonful of pepper, and 2 table-spoonfuls of salt' Simmer
gently for ten minutes longer, and serve without straining.
In most cases the meat is preferred strained from the
broth, but if the skin and fat are caiefully removed the
strong disagreeable flavour will be prevented. A larger
quantity of vegetables may be added, if desired, or rice
can be used instead of barley, or the meat may be cut
into dice and fried for a few minutes in butter. If the
carrots are grated they will give the broth a fine colour.
(2) Cut into dice lib. of the lean meat from the neck or
loin chops, or even from a leg of Mutton, and put it into
a saucepan with lqt. of water; add one minced carrot,
onion, and turnip, a little celery-seed tied in a bag, and
three or four white peppercorns. Put the pan on the fire
and boil for an hour, or until the water is reduced to 1
pint, if it is required very good, but if not, more water
should be added occasionally to keep it up to its original
quantity. When done, put the meat on a dish, with a
garnish of the carrots, &c., strain the brjth, let it cool,
skim it well of fat, warm up, and serve in a tureen or
basin.
(3) Chop lib. of lean, juicy Mutton into very small
pieces, put it into a saucepan, pour over 1 pint of cold
water, and let it stand until the meat is very red. Put
the pan at the side of the fire to heat slowly, simmer the
contents gently for ten minutes, strain well, remove all
the fat, and serve. The Mutton may be used for a
mince.
(4) Cut lib. of lean Mutton into small pieces, break
the bones, and put the whole into a saucepan with suffi-
cient water to cover it, and boil slowly. Add a slice each
of onion and turnip, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and a little
pepper. Simmer gently until the meat is in shreds ; strain,
and when it is quite cool remove all the fat. Pour it
back into the saucepan, boil it up, and adl 1 table-spoonful
of rice to every pint of broth ; simmer gently until the rice
is tender, being careful not to let the liquor boil away.
Season with a little curry powder used in the same way
as cayenne would be, or a few leaves of mint or a little
celery-salt may be added instead.
(5) Put 31b. of the scrag end of neck of Mutton into a
saucepan with 3qts. of water, and add two turnips cut in
slices and 1 table-spoonful of rice or pearl barley. Put
the pan on the fire, and boil slowly for three hours, skimming
frequently. When done strain it into a tureen, and serve
with pieces of toasted bread.
(6) Take about 5lb. or 61b. of neck of Mutton, have the
bones well chopped, and put it over the fire in about 5qts.
of water with 1 heaped teaspoonful of salt. Be careful that
it only simmers, and let it simmer for an hour ; then skim
oil all the fat, add to it two or three medium-sized onions,
two turnips, 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, 3oz. of
rice, a seasoning of pepper, and 1 table-spoonful of Hour
blended with some of the liquor so that it may be stirred
quite smo >thly into the soup. Let all simmer together for
two hours. The meat may be put on a hot dish and served
with turnips and caper or nasturtium sauce. Serve the
soup in a tureen.
(7) Peel four or five rather large onions, slice them, and
put them in a stewpan with a lump of beef- dripping and
fry until brown. Take the onions out, fry in the dripping
a few sliced carrots and turnips, and dust them over with
salt. Chop the best end ofl' a large scrag of Mutton and
cut it into slices, making 2qts. of nicely-flavoured stock
with the remainder. Fry the slices of Mutton ; put a
layer of the fried vegetables at the bottom of a large
stewpan, then a layer of the Mutton, next vegetables, and
so on until all are in. Cover the stewpan, place it over a
gentle fire, and leave it for three-quarters-of-an-hour,
shaking the contents occasionally to prevent them burning.
Afterwards strain in the stock made from the bones, &c.,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
985
Mutton — continued.
and let it simmer very gently until the meat is tender.
When cooked, pick out the best pieces of meat and vege-
tables, put them in a soup-tureen, and pass the remainder
with the liquor through a fine hair sieve over them,
nibbing them through to form a kind of puree. Serve
while very hot.
(8) Cut in small squares Jib. of lean Mutton and half
an onion, and brown them in a saucepan with a little fat
on the hot range. Moisten with 3 pints of white broth,
and season with J pinch each of salt and pepper; add
J pint of finely-chopped vegetables, a little celery cut up,
and 1 table-spoonful of well-washed barley. Boil well
together for forty minutes, pour into a hot soup-tureen,
and serve.
(9) Cut Jib. of Mutton into small bits, carefully re-
moving all fat and skin, add a very small quantity of
salt, put the meat into a bowl, pour over J pint of
warm water (not boiling), cover it, and let it stand near
the fire for half-an-hour; then turn it into a saucepan,
put it over the fire, and let it just come to the boil. As
soon as it boils, skim it well, cover the saucepan, draw it
to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for an
hour. Strain through a hair sieve and put it into a cool
place till required for use. In cold weather it will keep
for about two days.
(10) Scotch. — The same as for No. 8, substituting J
breakfast-cupful of oatmeal for the barley ten minutes before
serving.
Mutton Cakes. — Trim off the fat and skin from 31b. or 41b.
of raw Mutton and chop, the lean, then put it in a mortar
and pound. Peel and finely mince three onions and mince
a small bunch of well-washed parsley, and mix them with
the pounded meat, working it until quite smooth. Divide
the mixture into small equal quantities, and shape them
into round cakes; put a lump of fresh butter in a frying-
pan, dissolve it, put in the cakes, and fry them till nicely
browned. Put 2 table-spoonfuls of Hour in a saucepan,
then stir in gradually 1J breakfast-cupfuls of brown gravy ;
season with salt, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and con-
tinue stirring it over the fire until thick. Put the meat
cakes on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve.
Mutton Chops Breaded and Sautes. — Flatten six thick
Mutton chops, pare nicely, .and season with 1 table-spoon-
ful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper. Dip them in
beaten egg, roll in sifted breadcrumbs, and place in a
saute-pan with loz. of clarified butter. Cook for four
minutes on each side, and serve with J pint of any hot
sauce or garnishing required.
Mutton Chops a la Maintenon. — Cut off some Mutton
chops of equal thickness, and butter them well. Chop
very fine some parsley, sweet herbs, and eschalots, mix
them well together, and cover the chops with them. Put
the chops in a pan and fry until three-parts done, take
them out, brush over with egg, and sprinkle over some
breadcrumbs and more herbs if there are not sufficient
adhering to them. Wrap each chop up in buttered or
oiled paper, put them in a pan, and broil until quite done.
Whole capers with a little of their vinegar seasoned with
cayenne may be served with them, or some of the liquor
from the chops, skimmed, and an equal quantity of veal
gravy added and made hot, and then seasoned with a
little lemon-juice or vinegar, may be served in a tureen.
Mutton Coquilles. — These, if nicely made, are most delicious.
Open a tin of Mutton, turn the meat out, scrape off the
fat, then cut the meat into small dice-shaped bits, and
fill some scallop shells or large oyster shells with it. Warm
some butter till melted, pour a little over the meat in the
shells, cover this pretty thickly with breadcrumbs mixed
with grated Parmesan cheese, then pour on a little more
of the melted butter ; put the shells in a quick oven, and
bake till the tops are brown. If the oven is not hot
enough to brown them, make the coquilles hot hi the oven
and then brown the tops with a red-hot salamander. A
little chopped parsley may be mixed with the meat when
filling the shells, and is considered an improvement.
Mutton Cromeskies.— (1) Trim off the skin and fat from
some cold Mutton, and finely mince the lean ; put loz. of
Mutton — continued.
butter hi a stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir
them over the fire until well mixed, then pour in gradually
a good J breakfast-cupful of nicely -flavoured stock. Stir
it until boiling, then put hi the mince with a moderate
quantity each of chopped thyme and parsley, salt and
pepper to taste, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg.
Let it heat gradually at the side of the fire, then stir in
the beaten yolk of an egg. Cut some slices of Mutton-
fat about 2Jin. long and 2in. wide, put a small quantity
of the mince on each, and roll them up tightly, tying
them round with fine twine. In about an hour’s time,
dip each of the cromeskies in a good frying-batter, put
them into a stewpan with plenty of boiling fat, and fry
until lightly browned. Drain the cromeskies as free from
fat as possible, pile them on a hot dish over which has
been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper,
garnish with a border of filed parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut some slices of bacon very thin, about 1 Jin. wide
by 2m. long, put them on a board with a little minced
Mutton on each, roll them up tightly so that none of the
mince can escape, dip them into batter, plunge them
into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and fry till lightly browned.
Take them out, drain them, arrange on a dish, garnish
with parsley, and serve with mashed potatoes.
Mutton Croquettes.— (1) Finely chop some raw leg of Mutton,
and mix with it 4 table -spoonfuls of finely-minced onions
and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of well-washed rice ; season the
mixture with salt and pepper, work it well with the hands,
form into cork shapes, and plunge them into a saucepan of
boiling water. When three-parts cooked, drain, and leave
them till cold. Beat the yolks of four eggs, melt a good-
sized lump of butter in a frying-pan, dip the croquettes
in the beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry them
in the butter. When nicely browned, drain, and arrange
them in a pile upon a folded table-napkin on a hot dish,
garnish with filed parsley, and serve.
(2) Chop some cold Mutton as finely as possible and mix
with it about a third of the quantity of minced oysters.
Put loz. of liutter in a stewpan with 2 table-spoonfuls of
flour, mix them well over the fire without browning, then
pour in gradually about 1 pint of stock. Stir it over the
fire until reduced to a rather thick sauce, season to taste,
put in the minced ingredients, and continue stirring for a
few minutes, then turn out on to a dish and let it get
quite cold. Divide the mixture into small quantities and
mould them into egg-shaped balls. Dip them in beaten
yolk of egg and breadcrumbs, then egg and breadcrumbs
again; put a lump of butter or clarified fat into a flat
stewpan, and when it boils put hi the croquettes and fry
them until a pale golden brown all over. When cooked,
take them out of the pan and drain off as much of the
fat as possible on a sheet of kitchen-paper in front of the
fire. Arrange them hi a circle on a hot dish, with a
small bunch of fried parsley between each, fill the centre
with a puree of peas or any other kind of vegetable
preferred, and serve.
(3) Take the lean of a cold roasted joint of Mutton,
mince it carefully, removing all skin and fat, and add to
it a small quantity of very finely-minced bacon and calf’s
udder; season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a
little chopped parsley, and add two or three chopped mush-
rooms and a little mashed potatoes or fine breadcrumbs.
Mix all well together, and make it into a paste with beaten
yolk of egg. Form this paste into balls, flatten them a
little, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in a paper of
breadcrumbs ; let them stand ten minutes, then roll them
again in the breadcrumbs, and fry hi boiling lard or
clarified fat or butter. When they are of a golden brown,
drain them on paper, and serve with tomato sauce.
(4) Cut oft about 1 Jib. of Mutton and mince it very fine.
Put 1 pint of poulette sauce into a saucepan and reduce
it to J pint, thicken with the yolks of three eggs, stir hi the
minced meat, and add 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley,
and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and spread
it out on a dish to about 1 Jin. in thickness, and when it
is firm and cold divide it into sixteen equal parts. Lay
the sixteen portions of meat about 2in. apart on a board
sprinkled over with breadcrumbs to about Ain. thick,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
98 6
Mutton — continued.
cover with more breadcrumbs to about the same thickness
(viz., -Jg-in.), and roll them up into a cork shape, keeping them
as nearly as possible of uniform size. Beat the whites of
three eggs so as to mix them without frothing, and stir
in 1 table-spoonful each of oil and water and sufficient
salt and pepper to taste. Dip the croquettes in this, roll
them in more breadcrumbs, and lay them on a plate to
dry ; then place them in a frying-basket in a pan of boiling
fat, and when they are nearly done turn them over so as
to have them coloured evenly a light brown. When they
are done and crisp, sprinkle them over with salt, put them
on a dish, and serve with a garnish of parsley.
(5) Chop some Mutton very line, roll it into little
balls with egg, brush over with egg, cover them with
breadcrumbs, and plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling
lard and fry until done a- light brown. Take them out,
put them on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a garnish
of parsley.
(6) Partially boil ‘21b. or 31b. of French beans in salted
water, drain and chop finely, then dredge some Hour over
them, and put them in a basin. Finely mince lib. of
Mutton, season it with pepper and salt, and fry it in
butter. Mix the minced meat with the beans, add four
or five eggs, beat them well together, and season the
mixture with salt and pepper. Melt a lump of fresh butter
in a frying-pan, then put in I table-spoonful at the time
of the minced mixture, turn it to fry on both sides, and
brown them nicely. When cooked, arrange the cakes on
a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fri >d parsley, and serve very hot .
Mutton Cup Pie. Make Hlb. of paste, divide it into
eight pieces, each of which roll out as thin as possible.
Partially boil four or live onions, then drain, and chop
them finely. Chop a small quantity of mushrooms, and
put them, together with the onions and a lump of butter,
into a frying-pan, and fry till brown. Finely mince a
piece of Mutton, fry it for a few minutes in butter, and
add to the ab >ve. Place four of the Hats of paste over
each other, moistening between them with 1 spoonful of
warmed butter, then put the mince mixture over in small
quantities, a short distance from each other. Moisten the
paste round the mincemeat with a paste-brush dipped in
water, then cover with the remaining pieces of paste ;
press over each lot of mincemeat with a teacup, and cut
round. Butter a baking-tin, lay the pies on it, baste
them with warmed butter, and bake in a moderate oven.
When cooked and nicely coloured, arrange on a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, and serve.
Mutton Custard for Consumptive Invalids. Skin and
chop 2 >z. of Mutton -suet, put it into 1 pint of fresh
milk, together with l drachm of cinnamon or a little
grated nutmeg. Set it over the fire and let it boil, then
draw it to the side till the scum rises, and skim it care-
fully. Half a teacupful of this may be taken either warm
or cold three or four times a day.
Mutton Cutlets (Italian Style).— Take the cutlets off
the best end of two necks of Mutton which have been
hung until very tender, and trim off a little of the fat.
Season them on both sides with salt and pepper, brush
over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg, and roll
them in fine stale breadcrumbs. Egg and breadcrumb
them again, then roll them in warmed butter and more
breadcrumbs; beat them between the hands, and trim
round carefully with a knife. Put a lump of butter in a
frying-pan or Hat stewpan on the fire, and when melted
and spread put in the cutlets and fry until nicely browned
on both sides; there must be a brisk fire, or they will lie
too much browned before they are cooked through.
When taken out of the fat, drain them a minute or two
on a sheet of kitchen-paper, lay them on a hot dish, pour
a thin Italian sauce over them, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets a la Finan^iere. Trim the cutlets, and
lard them with strips of bacon. Line a stewpan with the
trimmings of bacon and a few slices of vegetables, put
in the cutlets together with a bunch of sweet herbs, cover
them with two or three slices of bacon, and moisten with
a little stock. Stand them over a moderate fire, put hot
Mutton — continued.
ashes on the lid of the stewpan, and braise them slowly.
Put 2oz. of chopped raw ham into a saucepan with some
trimmings of truffles and mushrooms, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a few peppercorns. Pour in h pint of -white
wine and h pint of stock, and boil until tlie liquor is
reduced to half its original quantity. Stir loz. of butter
and 1 table -spoonful of flour in a small saucepan over the
fire until browned, then mix in gradually 1 teacupful of
stock, and stir it until boiling and thickened. Strain the
reduced liquor through a fine hair sieve, mix it with
the thickened stock, and boil up again. When cooked,
drain the cutlets, and arrange them on a hot dish. Pour
the sauce over, and serve while very hot.
Mutton Cutlets a l’lnciienne. (1) Procure chops cut from
the best end of a neck of Mutton, trim off most of the
fat, make the bones as (dean as possible by scraping them,
and dust them over on both sides with salt and pepper.
Smoothly mash some cold boiled potatoes, moisten them
very slightly with milk, spread a layer of them over both
sides of each cutlet, smo (thing them carefully with the
Hat part of the blade of a knife, completely covering the
me it, and brush over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten
yolk of egg. Put a rather large lump of lard or butter
into a Hat stewpan, place it on the fire, and when blue
smoke rises put in the cutlets and fry them until deli-
cately browned on both sides. Drain them as they are
cooked on a sheet of paper, arrange them in a circle lean-
ing against a fried bread crouton on a hot dish over which
has been laid an ornamental dish-paper with the edge
turned up, put a group of fried parsley in the centre (see
Fig. 1227), and serve.
(2) Peel and boil ‘21b. or 31b. of potatoes, mash them when
cooked but not too much done, mix with them half their
bulk of Hour, and work the whole into a smooth paste
with fat. Cut some cold Mutton into small pieces, put it
in the centre of the paste together with a sprinkling of
finely-minced onions, and roll the paste up round it,
shaping it like a ball, and then flattening it slightly. Put
a go >d supply of clarified fat or lard in a Hat stewpan
over the lire, and when blue smoke rises carefully drop
in the cutlet and fry it gently until veil done and evenly
browned ; then put it on paper for a minute to drain, and
serve on a dish covered with a folded napkin or a fancy
dish-paper, and garnish with a few neat sprigs of parsley.
Mutton Cutlets a la Jardiniere. — (1) Peel three or four
young carrots and turnips and cut them into small balls
with a vegetal de-cutter ; boil these as well as a few button-
mushrooms, French beans (cut into pieces about lin. long),
and green peas separately in stock. Put loz. of butter
into a stewpan with 1 go id table-spoonful of Hour and stir
it over the fire until browned, then pour in gradually 1
pint of stock and continue stirring until boiling. Drain the
vegetables when three-parts cooked, put them into the
thickened stock, and let them simmer gently until quite
tender. Boil a firm white head of cauliflower in clear
water with a small lump of salt in it, trim the cutlets
neatly, beat them slightly with a cutlet-bat, and season
with salt and pepper. Put 2oz. of butter into a frying-
pan on the fire, and when hot lay in the cutlets and fry
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
987
Mutton — continued.
them until nicely browned, turning when done on one side.
When cooked drain the cutlets and place them in a
circle on a hot dish, put the cauliflower in the centre,
garnish round with the vegetables, and serve.
(2) Trim the cutlets and put them into a saucepan ;
cover with slices of bacon, moisten with stock, and stew
until tender, then take them out, and keep hot. Prepare
some carrots, turnips, salsify, and artichoke-bottoms, cutting
them into small pieces, and put them in the cooking-
stock of the cutlets. Boil gently over a moderate lire
until tender and the moisture lias entirely reduced. Arrange
the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish, pour the vegetables
in the centre, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Prepare the cutlets
from a neck of Mutton, by trimming them neatly, cutting
the bones off rather short, and removing most of the fat ;
then beat them with a cutlet-bat, season on both sides
with salt and pepper, and keep them in a cool larder for
an hour or two. Work together with the blade of a knife
ljoz. of butter, J table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Melt a lump of butter in
a frying-pan, put in the cutlets, and fry them until
nicely browned on both sides. When cooked, put the
cutlets on a hot dish, put small pieces of the parsley butter
over each, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot.
Mutton Cutlets a la Marechal. Chop finely 2oz. of veal
and pound it in a mortar together with 1 dessert-spoonful
of chopped parsley ; add to it less than h saltspoonful each
of salt and pepper and 1 saltspoonful of nutmeg, mix, and
then stir in 1 table-spoonful of cream. Take five Mutton
cutlets, trim then neatly, leaving on part of the fat ; beat
an egg, dip them in it, and roll them in a mixture of 3
table-spoonfuls of breadcrumbs and rather more than h
saltspoonful each of salt and pepper laid on a sheet of paper.
Put some clarified fat in a frying-pan, and when quite hot
fry the cutlets in it for eight minutes, turning them once.
When fried, take them out of the pan, divide the veal
mixture in the mortar into live equal portions, and spread
one on each cutlet; sprinkle some finely -chopped mush-
rooms over the veal mixture, and bake in a rather hot
oven for ten minutes. Serve on a hot dish garnished with
fried parsley.
Mutton Cutlets la Minute. - -Procure some cutlets from
the best part of a neck of Mutton, trim them to a nice
shape, and dust them over with salt and pepper, seasoning
on both sides. Dissolve a lump of butter on a plate near
the fire, roll the cutlets in it, and lay them on a broiler
over a clear, brisk fire, turning them when cooked on one
side. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper
on a hot dish, place the cutlets on it, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets a la Polonaise. —Cut off all the fat from
about six cutlets, put them in a stewpan together with a
sliced carrot and turnip and two onions, add also a bunch
of sweet herbs, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient
broth to moisten. Set the pan on the side of the fire, and
simmer gently until the meat is quite tender. Now take
out the cutlets, and keep them hot. Strain the gravy into
another saucepan, reduce it to glaze, mask the cutlets with
it, and serve hot with a tureenful of tomato sauce.
Mutton Cutlets a la Rachel. Chop three or four slices
of fat bacon, fry them for two or three minutes, then put
in the pan ilb. of chopped calf’s liver, and fry until the
liver is cooked. Season to taste, pound all to a smooth
paste in a mortar, then pass it through a fine wire
sieve. Neatly trim some Mutton cutlets that have been
cut ofl the best end of a neck, and fry them. When
cooked, drain the cutlets as free from fat as possible, put
them between two plates with a weight on the top, and
leave them until cold. When ready, trim the cutlets
again, and spread a layer of the pounded mixture over
one side of each of them. Wrap them in a piece of caul,
and put them in the oven until hot. Brush them over
with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, arrange in a
circle on a hot dish, with a border of mashed potatoes
round them, and serve very hot, with a sauceboatful of
demi-glaze.
Mutton — continued.
Mutton Cutlets a la Reform. — Trim the cutlets neatly;
mix a few table-spoonfuls of finelv-minced ham with some
breadcrumbs, and season them with salt and pepper. Roll
the cutlets in beaten egg and in the breadcrumbs. Melt
a large lump of butter in a flat stewpan, put in the
cutlets, and fry them until nicely browned on both sides.
Arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the centre
with chopped and cooked mushrooms, truffles, gherkins,
and boiled white of egg ; pour a reform sauce round them,
and serve.
Mutton Cutlets a la Soubise. -Cut the best end of a
neck of Mutton into cutlets, saw oil' the upper rib-bones,
leaving the bones of the cutlets about 3in. long, and
scrape about Jin. at the top of each bone clean.
Trim the cutlets to a nice shape, lay them in a buttered
saute -pan, dust over with salt and pepper, and fry over a
brisk fire, turning them to cook equally on both sides.
Peel and cut into slices lib. of large onions, put them
into a saucepan with J pint of milk, and boil until tender;
drain, pass them through a fine hair sieve, return them
to the saucepan with If, breakfast-cupfuls of white sauce,
and boil. When the sauce is reduced to about half its
original quantity, mix with it 1 teacupful of cream,
season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of
moist sugar, and keep it on the fire till it begins to
bubble again, then move it to the side. When cooked,
drain the cutlets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish,
pour the sauce in the centre, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets a la Venetienne. -Use the cutlets from
the best end of a neck of Mutton, trim them neatly,
scraping clean about tin. of the top of each bone, and
braise them. When cooked, drain, and press them between
two plates until cold. Prepare a sufficient quantity of
quenelle forcemeat to spread over one side of each cutlet,
and mix with it a small quantity each of chopped truffles
and tongue. Trim the cutlets again, spread the forcemeat
over, and lay them in a stewpan, the forcemeat side up-
wards; pour about 1 J breakfast-cupfuls of brown sauce
round, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and
stew gently at the edge of the fire for a-quarter-of-an-
liour. Cut some cooked tongue and gherkins into strips,
arrange the cutlets in a circle round the dish, put the
strips of tongue and gherkin in the centre, pour the sauce
round, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets in Aspic Jelly. Procure some cutlets from
a neck of Mutton, saw off the chine-bones, leave the
Fig. 1228. Mutton Cutlets in Aspic Jelly.
rib-bones about 3in. long, and trim off about Jin. of the
meat from each. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper
on both sides, and fry them in butter until nicely cooked.
Drain off as much of the fat as possible, and pour J tea-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
988
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
cupful of rich gravy and a few drops of lemon- juice over
the cutlets ; put in a small piece of glaze, simmer for a
few minutes, then hake. Boil the gravy until reduced to
a glaze, dip the cutlets in it, coating them well, and leave
them until cold. Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls of clear stock
into a stewpan together with 1 wineglassful of sherry and
j wineglassful of tarragon vinegar ; add J2oz. of gelatine
which has been steeped in cold water for about lialf-an-
liour, and boil the whole for a few minutes. Clarify the
jelly with white of egg, and strain it through a jelly-bag
until quite clear. Pour a layer of the jelly into a plain
round mould, and leave it until cold and set. Then take
the cutlets and stick them in, in such a way that they
overlap each other, but without touching the sides of the
mould. Fill up the mould with the remainder of the
jelly, which should have been kept in a liquid state, and
keep it in a cool larder, until cold and firm. When ready
to serve, dip the mould into warm water to loosen the
jelly at the sides, turn the contents out on to a dish
over which has been spread a fancy-edged dish-paper, and
garnish with neat sprigs of parsley (see Fig. 1228).
Mutton Cutlets Sautes served with a Macedoine of
Vegetables. — Take a dozen cutlets, sprinkle salt over, and
cut them to an equal shape. Put them in a stewpan
with some clarified butter, place a little butter on each,
and surround them with buttered paper. Fry them until
done, then drain and glaze. Take a croustade, fill it with
a macedoine of vegetables, place the cutlets round, and
it is ready for table.
Mutton Cutlets Sautes with Potatoes.— Take twelve
cutlets, trim them to an equal size, and dust them with
salt. Put some butter into a saute -pan, lay in the cutlets,
with a little butter on each and covered round with
buttered paper. Fry them until done, then take them
out, drain and glaze them, and put them on a dish in a
circle. Take some good potatoes and cut them into jin.
balls, and fry in butter until done. Place them in the
centre of the circle of cutlets, pour over some Chateau-
briand sauce, and serve.
Mutton Doopiaja. —Put 3oz. of fat into a frying-pan, warm
it, add ten or twelve large onions cut up into thin slices,
fry them, remove them from the pan, and add a curry
composed of the following ingredients : 4 teaspoonfuls
of ground onions, 1 teaspoonful each of ground chillies
and turmeric, j teaspoonful of ground ginger, and 1 tea-
spoonful of ground garlic ; brown these slightly, put in
2lb. of the meat from a shoulder of Mutton cut up into
thin slices and 14 teaspoonfuls of salt, pour over 1 break-
fast-cupful of water, and simmer gently over a slow fire
for an-hour-and-a-lialf. Turn the Mutton on to a dish,
and serve with the onions spread over.
Mutton Duck.— Choose a fore-quarter of Mutton without
any of the leg-bone chopped off, and cut well from the
backbone and ribs and high up over the shoulder, so as
Fig. 1229. Mutton Duck.
to take in the whole of the shoulder-blade, bone, and gristle.
Scrape the meat from the shoulder-blade and separate the
blade at the joint. Remove the meat from the leg-bone,
roll it over as it is cut, taking care not to cut through
the skin, and when within 3in. of the lower joint saw off
Mutton — continued.
the bone and trim the bone below the joint into the shape
of a duck’s bill. Bind the joint carefully without breaking
the skin, wipe the meat with a cloth, and rub it inside
with a little salt. Put a little forcemeat stuffing in between
the layers of meat, and with a needle and string pull the
edges of the meat together, fill the inside with a little
more stuffing, and form the meat into the shape of the
body of a duck (see Fig. 1229), bending the leg at the lower
joint to look like the head, keeping it in place with skewers.
Put a skewer through the side at the top of the body and
one into the body on each side of the neck, and fasten
the bill in its place with string tied to the skewers. Scrape
the shoulder-blade perfectly clean, sharpen the bony end
to a point, notch the gristle at the bony end, and put it
into the body to represent the tail, fastening it in its place
with string. Put all the pieces of bone and meat into a
saucepan of water and place the dish containing the imita-
tion duck in a steamer over it and steam for an hour
over a quick fire. Take it out, sprinkle over flour, salt,
and pepper, and put it iuto an oven on a baking-dish to
bake for an hour, by which time it should be quite brown,
basting it with a little of the liquor out of the saucepan.
Before putting this into the oven, cover the head and tail
with pieces of paper to prevent them burning. When
done take it out, place it on a dish, garnish with forcemeat
balls and parsley or potato croquettes, and serve.
Mutton Fritters. — (1) Rub 3oz. of butter into 6oz. of flour,
add a little salt, and make it all into a paste with the
white of an egg and the yolks of two. Roll it out to about
rin. in thickness, put some minced Mutton upon it at
distances apart, brush it lightly over with egg, cover it
with a similar flat of the paste, cement the edges together,
and cut it into shapes with a fluted biscuit-cutter ; brush
them over with egg, cover with breadcrumbs, plunge them
into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and fry until done a light
brown ; put them on a dish covered with a folded napkin,
and serve hot.
(2) Cut off as many slices of cold cooked Mutton as
required, dust them copiously with salt and pepper, plunge
them into a frying-pan with sufficient boiling fat to cover,
and fry. When done, drain, and serve.
Mutton Ham. — (1) Cut off the six best chops from a hind-
quarter of Mutton and shape the rest like a ham ; mix
together 2oz. each of coarse brown sugar and common salt
and 1 teaspoonful of saltpetre, squeeze in the juice of half a
lemon, make the mixture hot over the fire, then rub the
Mutton well with it. Keep the Mutton in a cool larder
until the following day, when it should be again rubbed
with the mixture. Boil in lgall. of water lib. of salt, jib.
of bay-salt, jib. of treacle, jib. of the coarsest brown
sugar, 3oz. of salpetre, and 2oz. of salprunella. Skim the
liquor when boiling, then put in 3oz. of juniper- berries.
When cold, pour the liquor over the ham, press it down
with a heavy weight, and leave it for three weeks, turn-
ing it' every three days. At the end of that time, take
the Mutton out and dry it on a cloth. Press it under
a heavy weight for two days and nights, when it should
he hung up and smoked in the same manner as hams.
When ready to cook the Mutton, put it in a saucepan of
water and boil for about two hours. When cooked, leave
it in the water until cold.
(2) Procure a hind-quarter of Mutton that has been
hung for three days and trim it to the shape of a ham.
Putin a mortar jib. each of common salt, bay-salt, and coarse
brown sugar, and 2oz. of saltpetre ; pound well, and sift
them through a fine sieve on to a sheet of paper, which
put into a cool oven for a minute just to get warm. Rub
the meat well over with this mixture and leave it for
twelve days, turning and rubbing it well, and after the
first three days putting over it 2oz. more of common salt.
At the end of that time drain it from the pickle, wipe it
on a dry cloth, then smoke it over wood smoke for seven
days.
(3) Take a Mutton ham weighing 201b. or 251b. ; mix
together 2oz. each of black pepper and saltpetre, and jib.
of coarse sugar. The second day after the killing rub this
mixture well into every part of the ham for ten minutes,
lay it on a Hat dish or deep stone trough, and cover with
For detail s respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
989
Mutton — continued.
2Alb. of salt. Let it remain for three weeks or a month,
hasting it with the brine every day. When taken from
the brine dip it in cold water and hang it up.
Mutton to Imitate Venison. — (1) The best Mutton to
use for this purpose is the cold remains of a well-liung
and rather underdone joint. Cut the meat into thin slices
with a little fat attached to each if possible. Stick a few
cloves in a moderate-sized onion, put it in a stewpan with
two or three bay-leaves, half a blade of mace, a bunch of
sweet herbs, a few allspice, and 1 pint of clear gravy, and
let it boil gently for an hour. At the end of that time
put into a stewpan 2oz. of butter and 1 heaped table-spoon-
ful of flour. Stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon
until nicely browned, strain in a small quantity of the
prepared gravy, mix it smoothly, then strain in the re-
mainder, and continue stirring until boiling and thickened.
Put the meat in the sauce with 2 wineglassfuls of port
wine, \ wineglassful each of mushroom ketchup and
Worcestershire sauce, £ table-spoonful of red-currant jelly,
and salt to taste ; keep the stewpan at the side of the fire,
and let the meat heat gently but do not let the gravy boil
again. Have ready boiled plenty of well-washed spinach,
and when tender drain it thoroughly and chop it up, mix-
ing a few lumps of butter with it ; make a wall with the
spinach round a hot dish, pile the meat in the centre, pour
the sauce round, and serve.
(2) Bone and trim a loin of Mutton the day before it is
wanted ; put a chopped onion in a stewpan with a lump
of butter, and fry it until nicely browned, then put in a
few finely-minced trimmings of lean ham, and two or three
sprigs of parsley. Pour in J2 pint of clear stock, season to
taste with salt and pepper and a few drops of Worcester-
shire sauce, boil it for ten minutes, then strain it into a
basin. Rub the meat over with coarse brown sugar and a
few table-spoonfuls of port wine. On the following morning,
cover the Mutton with a fiour-and-water paste, and roast it
like venison. Skim the gravy and boil it up ; when the meat
is cooked, remove the paste, put it on a hot dish, and serve
without delay with red-currant jelly and the gravy in a
sauceboat.
(3) Bone a loin of Mutton, trim it, removing all the skin,
and put it into a stewpan with an onion stuck with ten
cloves, a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, 1 table-spoon-
ful of vinegar, A pint of port wine, and 1 pint of water ;
season to taste with salt and pepper, and when boiling
move the stewpan to the edge of the lire and let the con-
tents simmer for nearly three hours, turning the meat over
occasionally. If getting too dry, pour in now and again
a little clear Mutton broth. When cooked, place the Mutton
on to a hot dish, strain the gravy over it, and serve.
(4) Take a large fat loin of Mutton and let it hang for
several days. Then take oft' all the kidney-fat, bone the
Mutton, take the skin off the upper fat, and rub the joint
well with loz. of ground black pepper and 2oz. of sugar
mixed together; lay it on a large deep dish, pour over
1 gill dr 1 A gills of port wine, cover it with the skin,
and let it remain for five days, rubbing and turning it
every day, always covering it again with the skin. It
may then be roasted covered with the skin, and paper
over that.
(5) The following is a capital receipt to make a haunch
or leg of Mutton eat like venison : The joint should be
hung as long as it can be with safety, and dressed exactly
like a haunch of venison ; to make the taste more perfectly
resemble that of venison, it should, after having been hung
to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a pan with vinegar
and water (two parts of the former to one of the latter,
but not enough to cover it), and seasoned with a faggot of
herbs, a clove of garlic, 1 table-spoonful of whole pepper,
and a couple of onions cut in slices ; let it soak for three
days, dry it well, hang it for a day, and roast as venison.
It may also be put into a stewpan with A- pint of gravy,
simmered for four hours, and served with sauce usually
prepared with venison.
Mutton Kabobs.— (1) Remove all the fat and skin from a
loin of Mutton, and cut through each joint. Put half a
grated nutmeg in a basin and mix it up with a little
breadcrumbs, line herbs, and salt and pepper to taste. Dip
Mutton— continued.
the pieces of meat into yolks of eggs in a basin, and
sprinkle them over with the mixture, taking care to cover
them. Afterwards, put them together again in their original
positions, tie them round with twine, and put them on a
spit in front of a quick fire to roast, placing a dish under-
neath to catch the fat. Baste frequently with a little
butter and the liquor from the Mutton, sprinkle over a
little more of the mixture, and when the Mutton is done
put it on a dish and remove the string. Put 1 breakfast-
cupful of gravy mixed with 2 table-spoonfuls of ketchup
and thickened with 1 teaspoonful of flour together with
the gravy that is in the basting-disli into a saucepan, boil
it, skim well, pour it over the Mutton, and serve hot.
(2) Select a small shoulder of Mutton and bone it, being
very careful not to break the skin. Put in a mortar a
little more than A table-spoonful of coriander-seeds, 1 tea-
spoonful each of cayenne pepper and ginger, a clove of
garlic, four or five cardamoms, and a few cloves ; moisten
with onion-juice, and pound the whole to a smooth paste.
Rub the Mutton well over with this mixture, and roll it
up tightly. Put 6oz. of lard or butter in a braising-pan,
place it over the fire until melted, then put in the Mutton
with some salt, and cook it over a gentle fire until nicely
browned. When cooked, place the meat on a hot dish,
thicken the liquor in the pan with a small quantity of flour,
pour it over the meat, and serve while very hot.
(3) Turkish. — Cut some lean Mutton into small squares,
dust them over with salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon,
nibbing it well in with the fingers, and leave them for
an hour or two. Put the pieces of Mutton in a sauce-
pan, cover them with milk, set it over the fire till boiling,
then take the pieces of meat out and leave them till cold.
Put some skewers through the pieces, put them in front
of a clear moderate fire, and turn them occasionally so as
to cook evenly. Keep the milk in which they were scalded
hot by the fire and baste the meat with it while cooking,
using a quill for the nurpose. When nearly done dredge
Fig. 1230. Mutton Kabobs (Turkish).
a small quantity of flour over the meat. When nicely
cooked and browned, put them on a hot dish, dust a smail
quantity of powdered cinnamon over them, and serve
without delay. See Fig. 1230.
(4) Cut some slices of lean raw Mutton into pieces about
the size of a penny, put them on a dish, dust them over
with salt and pepper, baste them with a few table-spoon-
fuls of raw onion-juice, and leave them for two or three
hours. Put the pieces of meat on to skewers, and roast
in front of a clear fire, turning them frequently. As they
begin to brown, dredge flour over them occasionally.
When cooked, put the meat on a hot dish, dust powdered
cinnamon and cumin over, and serve while very hot.
(5) Cut some lean Mutton into small squares, season
with salt, pepper, powdered cinnamon, and finely-minced
onions, and leave them for an hour or so to become incor-
porated with the flavours. Put the pieces of meat on
skewers, wrap some thin caul-fat round them, and roast in
front of a gentle fire, turning them frequently. When be-
ginning to brown, baste the meat with the dripping in the
pan. When cooked, arrange them on a hot dish, and serve
immediately.
Mutton Mulligatawny. — Cut off the lean part from 41b. of
the scrag end of a neck of Mutton, which cut into small
pieces ; put the remainder with the bones into a saucepan
with a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, a small piece of mace,
and two onions. Pour in 3qts. of cold water, and boil it
slowly for three or four hours. Afterwards strain the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
990
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
liquor and skim off all the fat. Put the pieces of lean
meat into a stewpan with | teacupful of curry powder,
loz. of butter, and salt and pepper to taste ; place the lid
on and stand it near the fire until the gravy is drawn
from the meat, then pour in the strained liquor from the
hones Stew the meat gently until tender ; mix 2 table-
spoonfuls of ground rice smoothly with a little cold water,
pour it into the soup, and stir it over the fire until boil-
ing, then move it to the side and boil gently for half-an-
liour. Turn the soup into a so up -tureen and serve it
with a dish of plain boiled rice.
Mutton Omelet. -Chop the requisite quantity of raw lean
Mutton, mix with it a little finely-chopped onion and parsley,
season with salt and pepper, put it in a frying-pan with
a lump of butter, and fry for a few minutes. Beat a sufii-
cient quantity of eggs with a fork, then add the mince-
meat and heat them well together. Put a rather large
lump of fresh butter in a frying-pan, place it over the fire
until hot, then pour in the omelet mixture and fry it until
lightly browned on both sides, stirring at the same time
until nicely set. liaise the pan and slip the omelet to
the side to give it an elongated shape. When cooked,
turn it on to a hot dish covered with an ornamental dish-
paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Mutton Pie.--(l) Large. — Cut up the required quantity of
lean Mutton into small pieces, season well with salt and
pepper, put it with the fat into a stewpan, and cook until
tender. Let it get cold, then separate the lean from the
fat, putting the former into a dish ; pour over a gravy made
from the bones, added to the fat from the cooked meat,
and 1 wineglassful of port wine. Now add a few button-
mushrooms and a little minced shallot, cover over with a
crust, and bake.
(2) Take 31b. of loin or neck of Mutton chops and trim
the fat from them. Mix together salt, white pepper,
powdered allspice, and a little powdered mace, and rub this
seasoning well into the chops, l’ut them into a saucepan
with a little chopped shallot or onion and a few pickled
mushrooms, add 2oz. of butter, put the lid on the sauce-
pan, set it beside the lire, and let the meat simmer or
stew gently in its own steam till it begins to shrink ; then
take it from the lire, and when cold put it into a pie-dish
or into a raised crust. If the meat is put into a pie-dish
add slices of hard-boiled eggs, two or three forcemeat balls,
and a little more seasoning and gravy; but if it is put in a
raised crust add forcemeat balls, slices of hard-boiled eggs,
and more seasoning, but do not add gravy till the pic is
baked ; it can then be put in through a hole made in the
paste for the purpose and covered with an ornament made
of the paste. If made in a pie-dish the pie may either he
covered with short-crust or puff paste.
(3) Cut into fdlets or small pieces the meat from three
or four necks of Mutton, and dust them over with salt
and pepper. Put Alb. of butter into a saucepan, warm it,
and add to it 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a
head of shallot, and 4 table spoonfuls each of chopped
mushrooms and till I lies.; cook them for a few minutes, and
let them cool. Line a dish with paste, dip the fillets of
Mutton into the butter and cooked line herbs, place them in
the centre of the dish, filling up the cavities with lamb or
other forcemeat mixed up with mushrooms and truffles,
pour over the butter in which the vegetables were cooked,
cover the pie with more paste, put it into a quick oven,
and bake for about an-hour-and-a-half. Take it out when
done, and serve cold.
(4) Take a loin of Mutton, strip off all the meat with-
out dividing it, cut it into thin slices, and sprinkle them
over with salt and pepper. Put a small layer of puff paste
round the edge of a pie-dish, place a layer of the Mutton
at the bottom, then a layer of forcemeat, then another
layer of Mutton, with four halves of kidneys put at equal
distance from one another, and pour in some gravy made
from the bones and well skimmed of fat. Damp the edge
of the paste, cover the dish with a crust Ain. in thickness,
ornament it according to taste, make a hole in the top
for the steam to escape, and bake in a moderate oven
for from an-hour-and-a-half to two hours. When done, take
it out, and serve.
Mutton — continued.
(5) Cut slices £in. thick from some cold cooked roasted
or boiled Mutton, and put them in a pie-dish ; cover with
a layer of boiled onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
pour in a little gravy to cover the meat. Fill up the dish
with mashed boiled potatoes, smoothing it over with a
knife, put it in an oven, and bake for forty-five minutes
or so. When done, take it out, and serve very hot.
(6) Peel 21h. of potatoes, put them in boiling water for
five minutes, then drain them ; cut three of the potatoes
into halves, and the remainder into slices. Trim off the
fat and skin from about 21b. of Mutton, cut the lean into
small pieces, roll them in flour, and season with salt, pepper,
and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Cover the bottom
of a pie-dish with a layer of the potatoes, dust a small
quantity of salt over them, then put in a layer of the
meat. Continue in this way until the dish is full, then
put the halves of the potatoes on the top, standing them
on the cut sides, and brush them over with a paste-brush
dipped in warmed butter. Mix 1 table-spoonful of ketchup
in 1 breakfast-cupful of cold water, pour it carefully into
the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for an-hour-and-a-
half. If the potatoes seem likely to get too dry on the
top, baste them occasionally with warmed butter. When
cooked, stand the pie-dish on a flat dish, and serve while
very hot.
(7) Make a good short-paste of flour, butter, and eggs,
then divide it into twenty pieces, and roll them out on a
floured table fill as thin as a wafer. Butter the interior
of a shallow dome-shaped mould, and lay in carefully half
of the pieces of paste like fish scales one over the other,
allowing them to reach up to the brim of the mould.
Finely chop some raw Mutton and peel and chop three
onions; put them into a deep. frying-pan with a lump of
butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry them over the
fire till beginning to brown. Blanch and peel 2 table-spoon-
fuls of sweet almonds and 2 table-spoonfuls of pistachios ;
put them with the fried mixture, dust it over with powdered
cinnamon, and stir till well mixed with a wooden spoon.
Fill the mould with the mixture, then cover it with the
remaining pieces of paste, moistening between each with
warmed butter. Butter a baking-tin and turn it over on to
the pie, and then turn back again, so that the mould is,
so to speak, upside-down. Bake the pie in a quick oven.
When cooked and nicely browned, turn the pie out of the
mould on to a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper
on a hot dish, and serve.
(8) Select a fat loin of Mutton, let it hang for several
days, then beat well with a rolling-pin; next rub it well
with 4oz. of sugar, put it in a bowl, and pour over 1 pint
each of port wine and vinegar. Leave it in this marinade
for five or six days, take it out, wash it well, wipe it with
a cloth, season highly with salt, pepper, allspice, and nutmeg,
put it in a dish with 12oz. of butter, cover with a thick
crust, and bake. The meat must be boned before hanging
it up; put these bones into a saucepan with sufficient water
to cover, also 1 wineglassful of port wine, season with salt
and pepper, and boil until all the goodness is extracted.
When the pie is done, lift up the crust, pour in the gravy,
and serve. %
(9) Sift lAlb. of Hour upon a paste board, make a bay
in the centre, and put into that four beaten eggs and 1
teaspoonful of salt ; work the ingredients till well mixed,
then stir in sufficient water to form a soft flexible paste.
Knead it well, dipping the hands occasionally in warmed
butter. Cut the paste into pieces about the size of a small
egg, dust them with wheat-starch, then roll them out with
a rolling-pin until as thin as possible. Select a round
baking-tin of the same size as the pieces of paste, about
9in. in diameter, butter it, lay in a piece of paste, brush
it over with a paste-brush dipped in warmed butter, then
lay another piece of paste on to that; proceed in this way
until half of the pieces of paste are used, brushing butter
over the top of every five. Finely chop some Mutton and
half the quantity of mushrooms and onions, put them in
a frying-pan with butter, and fry till nicely browned.
Spread the minced mixture over the paste, then cover it
with the remaining pieces of paste, proceeding as before.
Cut the pie into four pieces crosswise, baste the top with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, sfcc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
991
Mutton — continued.
a few table-spoonfuls of warmed butter, put it in a quick
oven, and bake. When cooked and nicely browned, put
the pie on a hot dish, and serve.
(10) Small. — Cut some Mutton into slices (without any
bone), sprinkle over with salt and pepper, put them in a
saucepan, and stew over a moderate fire with some
fat also cut into slices. When they are quite tender,
remove the pan from the fire, put it in a very slow oven,
and let the slices of meat remain in it until they are quite
cold. Skim off all the fat, add a little gravy made from
the bones, and 1 wineglassful of port wine. A few small
onions and a little minced shallot may be added if desired.
Have ready some patty-pans lined with puff paste, put the
meat, &c., in, and bake in a moderate oven until done.
They may be served either hot or cold as desired.
(11) Remove the skin and discoloured parts from Jib.
of beef-suet; chop) it finely, put it into a basin, pour J
teacupful of boiling milk over, and stir well. Mix Jib.
of flour and 1 saltspoonful of salt in with the suet and
milk. Dredge flour over a paste-board, put the dough on
it, and knead well, then roll it out to about Jin. in thick-
ness. Butter three large patty-pans and line them with
the dough. Fill each with chopped and well-seasoned
Mutton, brush the edges of the dough with a paste-brush
dipped in milk, and cover each pie with a round of the
dough. Press them together at the edges, make a small
hole in the centre of each, brush them over with millc,
put them into a moderate oven, and bake for three-quarters-
of-an-liour. When cooked, take the pies out of their tins,
put them on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper
on a dish, garnish with a few sprigs of parsley, and serve
either hot or cold.
Mutton Pilau. — (1) Cut Jib. of boiled Mutton into small
pieces and fry them in butter. Boil 2 breakfast-cupfuls
of rice; when the meat is well coloured add part of the
rice, also a few cloves, cardamoms, and a little cinnamon, and
simmer gently at the side of the fire for half-an-hour or so.
Arrange a little of the boiled rice on a dish, pour over the
mince, prinkle with more rice, and serve.
(2) Cut a leg of Mutton into small slices, put them into
a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover,
and simmer slowly until the meat is done. In the mean-
time put 1 breakfast-cupful of washed rice into a saucepan
and cover it with gravy well-seasoned with onions, green
ginger, and salt, and boil until soft. Then put the pieces of
meat in the centre of a dish, pour over the rice mixture,
Fig. 1231. Mutton Pilau.
garnish the dish with fried onions, pieces of fried bacon, and
slices of hard-boiled eggs (see Fig. 1231). Cold cooked meat
can lie served as above, or the raw slices may lie first
set in a frying-pan before boiling.
(3) Cut out a square piece of Mutton with the saddle
part attached to it ; cut oil' the fillet to the bones, remove
all the fat and sinews, and divide it transversely into thin
slices; sprinkle with chopped mint, spices, anil salt and
pepper to taste. Put the bones and trimmings into a
saucepan with a little water, and boil over a moderate fire
for about two hours. Wash and drain lib. of rice, turn
it into a sieve, and let it diy for about an hour. Put
a chopped onion into a saucepan with a little butter
and fry lightly; mix in the rice, fry for a few minutes
longer, pour in broth (not skimmed) to three times its
height, cover the pan, and boil ; when all the moisture has
evaporated, put the pan at the side of the fire to keep hot.
In the meantime, put the slices of Mutton on a skewer alter-
nately with slices of ham or bacon, roll them in slices of
fat bacon, and broil over a clear fire for eight minutes.
Mutton — continued.
Put the pilau on a dish with the skewers sticking in it,
and serve very hot.
Mutton Pilau a la Sultane. — Wash lib. of rice, put it
in a cloth, and tie up, leaving room for the rice to swell.
Cut Jib. of the best part of Mutton into small pieces,
put them in a saucepan with lqt. of water, and place
over the fire till boiling. Then skim the liquor, move
the saucepan to the side of the fire, and keep the con-
tents simmering for half-an-hour. Strain the liquor off
the meat into a basin, put 4oz. of butter in with the
meat, and fry it till nicely browned. Return the liquor to
the saucepan, with 2 table-spoonfuls of skinned pistachios
and 1 table- spoonful of washed currants, and dust in a small
quantity of mixed spices. Mince 2oz. of Mutton and fry
it in butter till browned, then put it in with the other in-
gredients. When the liquid boils, put in the rice, move to
the side of the fire, and simmer until soft. When cooked,
arrange the pilau tastefully on a hot dish, and serve imme-
diately.
Mutton Pudding. — (1) Take some chops from a neck or loin
of Mutton, trim the fat from them, season with chopped
onion, pepper, and salt, lay one half of them at the bottom
of a baking-dish, and pour over a batter made of potatoes
boiled till floury, rubbed through a colander, and mixed
with beaten egg-and-milk. Then put in the rest of the
chops, fill up the dish with the potato flatter, and bake.
(2) Make a common suet crust, roll it out, line a basin
with some of it, then lay in some slices of an underdone
leg of Mutton, season with pepper, salt, and finely-chopped
onion, pour in a little gravy, lay a cover of the suet crust
over it, pinch the edges together, tie a floured cloth over,
and boil.
(3) Remove all the fat from about 21b. of scrag of Mutton
and put it into a saucepan meat downwards with lqt. of
water, two onions, salt and pepper to taste, and boil gently
for two hours. Take out the meat, remove all the bones,
and let the broth cool so as to take off' the fat. In the
meantime make a crust with the fat or mutton- or beef-suet,
using 2oz. to every Jib. of flour. Line a buttered pudding-
basin with this, place two cooked potatoes cut in slices at
the bottom, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; next put
in a layer of the onions, then the meat, with a sheep’s
kidney cut in slices. Sprinkle with a little more salt and
pepper, and cover with two potatoes cut in slices. Four in
a little of the mutton broth, cover the top with a round
of the paste, tie a cloth over, put it in a saucepan of water,
and boil over a moderate fire for two hours. Put all the
bones into the pan with the broth, add one onion cut in
slices, and boil until the pudding is cooked. Turn it out
on a dish when done, and serve with the broth in a sauce-
boat. If a richer crust is required equal quantities of
suet and flour may be used. The paste should be rolled
out to Jin. in thickness.
Mutton Puffs. — Pound some cooked potatoes to a smooth
paste in a mortar, work in an equal weight of flour, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and add sufficient eggs to make into
a paste. Put the mixture on to a board, roll it out thin, and
cut it into 4in. squares. Put some slices of cold cooked
Mutton and bacon on each, add a little more salt, fold the
paste over cornerwise, pressing the edges together, and put
them into a frying-pan with a little fat and fry, turning over
so as to cook both sides. Place them on a dish when
done, and serve very hot. See Fig. 1232.
Mutton Ragofit. — (1) Put 3 table-spoonfuls each of flour
and butter into a saucepan over a clear fire, and when hot
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, 6cc., referred to, see under their special heads.
992
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
add 31b. of Mutton cut into small pieces. Stir Avell until
of a rich brown colour, add Iqt. of water, and remove the
pan to the side of the fire where the contents will simmer
well. In the meantime, put 3 table spoonfuls of butter into
a frying-pan, make it bot, and add a few small onions (or
a large one cut up in slices), a large turnip cut into small
squares, and 1 teaspoonful of Hour. Stir well over the lire,
and when of a golden colour a id it to the meat ; simmer
for an-hour-and-a-lialf longer, and serve very hot with a
garnish of rice, mashed potatoes, boiled macaroni, &c.
(2) Chop about 21b. of the neck or breast of Mutton into
small pieces and put them into a saucepan with a little
warmed butter and flour, a small quantity of sugar, suffi-
cient water to nearly cover, a few sprigs of parsley, and
salt and pepper to taste. Place tbe pan over the lire
and stir the contents vigorously until the liquor boils,
then remove the pan to the side, and simmer the meat
gently until done. Add three cooked turnips cut into
small pieces, simmer for a few minutes longer, take out the
parsley, and put the turnips in the centre of a dish with
the pieces of meat round it. Remove all the fat from the
liquor, pour it over, and serve.
(3) Cut off as many Mutton cutlets as are required, trim
off all the fat, and dust over with flour. Put the fat into
a stewpan, melt it, add a bunch of sweet herbs and twro
finely-minced shallots, brown them over a moderate fire,
strain off the liquor, thicken it with flour, pour in 1
wineglassful each of white wine and W orcestersliire sauce,
put in the cutlets, and cook them until tender; then
arrange them on a hot dish, pour over the gravy, garnish
with the minced shallots, and serve.
(4) Peel five or six onions, cut them into thin slices,
put them in a stewpan with a piece of butter, and cook
over a gentle lire until soft but not browned ; dredge in
about 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, stir it until cooked, then
put in 1 table-spoonful of vinegar, l wineglassful of wine,
and f pint of broth ; season with salt and pepper and a
small quantity of grated nutmeg. Roil the liquor gently
till reduced to a thick creamy sauce, then strain it through
a line hair sieve. Remove all the skin and sinew's from
some cold cooked Mutton, cut it into slices, then chop it
into small squares ; put them in a saucepan, pour over the
sauce, and place them on the fire until hot, but without
boiling. Turn the ragoftt on to a hot dish, garnish with
poached eggs, and serve.
(5) Trim away the skin and a little of the fat from the
breast or shoulder pieces of Mutton, and cut it into
middling-sized pieces without removing the bone. Put
them with some good toppings into a saucepan over a brisk
fire and fry for a few' minutes, turning frequently. Add
a little sugar to soften tbe meat and assist it to colour,
sprinkle with salt, and put in a few small onions. When
the onions are a light brown, drain off all tbe fat, sprinkle
over a handful of flour, cook for a couple of minutes
longer, and pour in sufficient broth to cover. Stir well
until the liquor boils, remove the pan to the side of the
fire, and add a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley. Simmer
gently for an hour, when the meat will be about three-
parts done ; put a coarse sieve over another saucepan, pour
the meat, &c., into it, and with a fork remove the bones,
putting the meat into the saucepan with the liquor and
onions. Drop in a few uncooked potatoes cut into small
rounds, boil up again, basting frequently with the liquor,
remove the pan to the side of the fire with hot ashes on
the lid, and cook until the potatoes and meat are done
(which they should be at the same time). Put the meat
in the centre of a dish, garnish with the potatoes, pour
over the liquor and onions, and serve very hot.
Mutton Rissoles.— (1) Mince some raw Mutton until quite
fine, and season it with salt and pepper; then divide it
into small equal-sized quantities and roll them into balls;
put 2oz. of butter in a frying-pan, make it hot, then put
in the balls, and fry them till nicely browned. Drain tbe
balls, and put into the remainder of the butter three
thinly-sliced onions and 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley
and fry them for a few minutes. Put the onions and parsley
at the bottom of a stewpan, place in the balls, laying them
side by side, pour in 3 table-spoonfuls of malt vinegar and
Mutton — continued.
sufficient clear broth to cover, and keep them boiling gently
at the side of the lire for lralf-an-hour. When cooked,
Fig. 1233. Mutton Rissoles.
place the balls on a hot dish, pour their cooking-liquor
round them, place a cover over, and serve. See Fig. 1233.
(2) Cut some cold Mutton into small pieces and mix
with them in moderate quantities some finely-minced
parsley and onions and a small quantity of finely-minced
garlic ; add half the quantity of fine breadcrumbs, season
to taste with salt and pepper, and moisten with a little thick
cream. Divide the mixture into small equal-sized portions,
mould them round, brush over with beaten egg, and strew
with grated breadcrumb. Place a large piece of butter in a
stewpan over the fire, and when boiling put in the rissoles
and fry them a golden brown. Serve on a hot dish over
which has been spread a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper,
and garnish with parsley.
(3) Cut some cold Mutton into small dice, season to
taste, and moisten well with nicely-seasoned gravy or stock.
Take some very small round rolls, cut the tops off them,
and scoop out the inside crumb. Fill the hollowed-out
rolls with the Mutton, fit the tops on again, and tie thread
round to keep them in their places. Dip them in an egg
beaten up in a table-spoonful of cream, dredge with sifted
breadcrumbs, and fry in butter. Serve hot garnished with
fried parsley.
(4) Remove the skin and gristle from about ,21b. of
cold cooked Mutton, chop it up very fine, and mix it with
about a quarter its weight of breadcrumbs. Have ready
an onion boiled until quite tender, chop it up, mix it in
with the meat, and add a few drops of essence of anchovy ;
season with salt and pepper to taste, and work up with
enough egg to make it into a stiff paste. Roll it into balls,
brush over with egg, cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in
a pan with a little butter until of a light brown colour.
Remove the fat from the frying-pan and add a little gravy
made of the trimmings and liquor in which the onion was
cooked, boil it up, thicken with a little flour, stir in a
little vinegar or sharp sauce, put the' rissoles on a dish,
pour it round them, and serve.
Mutton Sausage. — (1) Procure some well-cleaned intestines
of sheep ; finely chop lib. or 2lb. of raw Mutton, mix with
it 1 breakfast-cupful of well-washed rice, and season with
salt and pepper and a small quantity of powdered cinnamon
if liked. Stir the ingredients in sufficient water to form
a stiffish paste. Tie one end of the sheep’s intestine, then
stuff it with the minced mixture, passing it in through a
funnel. Tie securely round the top, and prick it all over
with a needle. Plunge the sausage into a saucepan of
boiling salted water. When three-parts cooked, take the
sausage out, drain, twist it round and round like a coil,
and leave it till cold, when it will remain in this shape.
Cut the sausage into thin slices and dip them in beaten
egg ; put a lump of butter in a frying-pan, place in the
slices of sausage, and fry them till nicely browned. Drain,
arrange them on a hot dish over 'which has been placed
a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
993
Mutton — continued.
This is a very novel manner of serving freshly-made
sausages.
(2) Finely chop lib. or so of uncooked or underdone
Mutton and season with crushed mace, salt, and pepper.
Chop also illi. of beef-suet, two anchovies, 2 breakfast-cup-
fuls of bearded oysters, and a boiled onion ; mix with these
Jib. of grated bread and the minced Mutton, form it into
a mass by adding the liquor from the oysters and two or
three eggs, then shape it into balls or cakes, or put it
into skins, plunge into boiling fat, and fry. When done,
arrange them on a folded napkin spread over a dish, and
serve.
(3) Chop as finely as possible 61b. of Mutton and ljlb.
of fresh pork, season with 2Joz. of salt, Joz. of freshly-ground
black pepper, J table-spoonful of finely-minced or powdered
sage or marjoram, and 1 heaped teaspoonful of grated
ginger. Procure, if possible, about 1 J pints of sheep’s blood,
caught at the time of killing. Put the mince into a basin
with the blood (which is used to give it a rich dark colour),
and stir it until well mixed. Fill some well-cleaned sheep’s
entrail skins with the mixture, and tie it into sausages
about 4in. long. Put the sausages into a saucepan, cover
with cold water, place them over a slow fire until the
water is on the point of boiling, then remove the sauce-
pan and leave the sausages in the water until half cold.
Drain the sausages, dry them on a cloth, and hang them
up in a cool dry place. Fry the sausages when ready to
serve.
(4) Chop finely lib. of underdone cold roasted leg of
Mutton, season highly with mace, salt, and pepper, and mix
with it 6oz. of finely-minced beef-suet, a little sweet mar-
joram, thyme, and parsley, two anchovies, and 1 pint of
oysters. Grate Jib. of bread very fine, add a little essence
of anchovies, and work it into a paste with two eggs. Add
this to the Mutton mixture, and when thoroughly incor-
porated put it into pots or jars until wanted for use. It
may be made into small balls or sausage-like rolls and fried,
or put into skins.
(5) Chop very fine fib. of beef-suet free from skin, also
1 Jib. of lean of Mutton free from skin and sinew, and add
1 J pints of oysters bearded and washed in their own liquor,
6oz. of sifted breadcrumbs, and Joz. each of black pepper and
salt. Mix all thoroughly together and then stir into them the
strained liquor of the oysters and the beaten yolks of three
eggs. Beat the whites of the three eggs to a stiff froth and
mix them in last. Put the mixture into well-cleaned skins,
tie them at intervals with fine string, and hang them up
until wanted to fry. Prick them with a fork before frying.
Mutton Saute. — Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over a
few slices of cold cooked Mutton, put them into a frying-
pan with a little butter or bacon-fat, and heat them tho-
roughly but slowly. Turn them frequently, and when they
are almost done, sprinkle over a little finely-chopped parsley,
put them on a dish, and serve with the fat from the pan
poured over.
Mutton Scalloped. — (1) Mince some Mutton, chop up also
some mixed pickles with it, moisten well with good gravy
seasoned with walnut ketchup and a small quantity of
W orcestershire sauce, and add pepper and salt to taste.
Put the mixture into scallop shells, strew it thickly with
sifted breadcrumbs, brown them nicely, and serve very hot.
(2) Cut some cold Mutton into small neat pieces, and trim
them nicely; melt loz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in
J table -spoonful of flour, and when smoothly mixed pour in
slowly 1 teacupful of clear nicely-flavoured stock. Stir it
until boiling, then put in the meat, add a seasoning of
chopped thyme and parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and
a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Stir the meat over
the fire for a few minutes, then move it to the side, and
stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Fill some scallop shells
with the meat and sauce, strew finely-grated breadcrumbs
over them, pour in each 1 table-spoonful of warmed butter,
and brown under a salamander. Spread a folded napkin
or a fancy-edged dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the
scallop shells on it, garnish them with fried parsley, and
serve.
(3) Finely mince lib. of cooked Mutton with one cooked
onion, season to taste with salt and pepper, and mix a
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils,
Mutton — continued.
small quantity of good gravy with it. Put the mince into
scallop shells, each of which should be three-parts full.
Mash 2 or 3 breakfast-cupfuls of boiled potatoes, moisten-
ing them with a little cream, spread them over the top
of the mince in the shells, and mark them over with
the prongs of a fork. Put a piece of butter on the top of
each, and place them in a brisk oven until nicely browned.
Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental disli-paper over
a hot dish, arrange the scallops on it, leaving them in the
shells, garnish with neat groups of parsley, and serve.
(4) Take some cold roast Mutton, cut it up into slices,
remove the skin and fat, and season with salt and pepper.
Put first a layer of bread or cracker-crumbs on the bottom
of a well-buttered, shallow dish, next a layer of meat, then
a layer of oysters strained and seasoned, then a little tomato
or brown gravy, then more crumbs, meat, &c., until all
are used up, having a thicker layer of crumbs moistened
with 3oz. of melted butter at the top.
(5) Cut some slices, about Jin. thick, off a boiled or roast
leg of Mutton, and trim them neatly, making them all one
size. Season some finely-grated breadcrumbs with pepper,
salt, and powdered sweet herbs ; dip the slices of Mutton
in beaten egg, then in the prepared breadcrumbs, and leave
them for an hour or two ; afterwards egg-and-breadcrumb
them again. Put a good-sized lump of lard or clarified fat
into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire, and when
blue smoke rises put in the scallops and fry them until of a
delicate brown. Have ready prepared a puree of any kind
of vegetables liked, place it in the centre of a hot dish,
arrange the scallops round, and serve.
Mutton Soubise. — Peel two large Spanish onions, two carrots,
and two small turnips, and cut the carrots and turnips
into small balls with a vegetable-cutter. Boil the vege-
tables separately in salted water until tender. Trim off
the fat from five or six Mutton chops, dip them into well-
beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs that have been
seasoned with salt and pepper ; put a lump of clarified
fat into a frying-pan, place it over the fire until blue
smoke rises, then put in the chops and fry them, turning
them when browned on one side and brown the other.
Drain the boiled vegetables, chop the onions, put them in
a saucepan, dredge them with flour and a small quantity
of salt and pepper, pour in gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of
milk, and stir it over the fire until thickened and boiling,
then put in 2oz. of butter. When the cutlets are cooked,
drain, and arrange them in a circle upon a hot dish, put
the carrots and turnips in the centre, pour the onion sauce
round, and serve while very hot.
Mutton Soup. — (1) Take fib. of lean Mutton, a cutlet or
steak from the leg is best, and cut it into small bits about
Jin. square. Have Jib. each of turnips, carrots, and onions,
and cut them as small as the meat. Put the meat in a
soup-kettle with lgall. of cold water, and let it come
slowly to the boil. When it boils, throw in the vegetables
together with 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, Jib. of
pearl barley, J saltspoonful of pepper, and 1 level table-
spoonful qf salt, and let the soup simmer till both meat
and vegetables are quite tender and the pearl barley well
cooked. This soup should not be skimmed.
(2) Take the remnants of a cold leg of Mutton, break
the bone into moderate-sized pieces, and put them in a
saucepan with a few carrots, turnips, and onions, say two of
each, that have been peeled and cut up ; put in also a bay-
leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and marjoram. Pour
in 2qts. of water, add J table-spoonful each of peppercorns
and allspice, eight or ten cloves, and salt to taste. Place
the saucepan over the fire with the lid off until the water
boils, then skim well, and move it to the side, where it may
simmer for four or five hours. At the end of that time,
strain the liquor into one basin, and pass the vegetables
through a fine hair sieve into another basin, keeping back the
parsley, &e. Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan with 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, and stir them over the fire until mixed ;
skim the fat off the liquor, stir it in with the flour and
butter, and when it boils mix in the puree of vegetables.
Pour the boiling soup into a soup-tureen, and serve with a
plate of sippets of toast or crotitons of bread that have
been fried a delicate brown in butter.
uses, &c. , referred to, see under their special heads.
4 c
904
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKER I
Mutton — continued.
(3) Put a sheep’s head (with the skin remaining on) into
warm water and let it soak. Remove the tongue and
hrains, and carefully break all the thin hones inside the
cheek. Wash it well in several waters and put it in a
saucepan with lqt. of water and 1 teaspoonful of salt, and
hoi l it for ten minutes. Pour off the water, add ftgall.
more, and lib. of the scrag end of a neck of Mutton, two
carrots and turnips, six onions, a sprig of parsley, and salt
and pepper to taste. Put the pan over a slow fire and
boil gently for about live hours ; strain off the broth and
let it cool in order to remove the fat. Take all the vege-
tables, rub them through a fine sieve, mix in 1 table-spoon-
ful of cornflour rubbed smoothly into 1 gill of milk, boil
the soup, and stir them in. In the meantime boil the
tongue until it is quite tender, skin it, and trim off all the
superfluous fat, chop it very fine, add the brains also cooked,
and mix in an equal bulk (of the brains and tongue to-
gether) of breadcrumbs, one egg, 1 table-spoonful of chopped
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste ; roll the mixture into
balls, using a little flour if it is too thin. Plunge the balls
into a frying-pan with loz. of butter, fry them to a light
brown colour, and drain off all the fat from them. Pour
the soup into a tureen, add the balls, and serve with
some parsley, scalded and chopped, on a dish. If the skin
is removed from the head before being cooked, much of the
nourishment is lost. The neck and head after cooking
may be used for other purposes.
(4) Pour 7 pints of water into a saucepan over 71b. of
the scrag end of a neck of Mutton, and add three carrots,
the same of turnips, one onion, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and salt and pepper to taste. Put the pan on the side of
the fire and simmer gently for about ten hours, taking care
to stir it frequently. Let it remain in the saucepan for a
day ; boil it up, remove the pan to the side of the fire,
and simmer gently for three hours longer. Take out the
meat, put it on a dish with the vegetables for a garnish,
and serve. Strain the soup through a fine sieve into another
saucepan, let it get cold, remove all the fat, and add gradu-
ally 6 table-spoonfuls of arrowroot mixed to a smooth
paste with water, and salt and pepper to taste, , stirring well
until it thicken -. When done, turn it out into a tureen,
and serve.
Mutton Steak a la Florentine. -Cut the meat off a leg
of Mutton into thick steaks or slices, and nib each slice
over on both sides with grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
Season some breadcrumbs with thyme, savory, cloves, mace,
salt, and pepper, and bind them with beaten yolks of eggs,
then divide and mould the mixture into small balls ; butter
the edges of a pie-dish, line them with paste, and put in
the slices of Mutton, together with the balls, four chopped
shallots, a dusting of powdered sweet herbs, and two or
three anchovies. Moisten with 4 pint each of claret and
water, and put on the top 41b. of butter broken in small
pieces. Cover with puff paste, and trim round the edges,
moistening and pressing them together. Bake the pie in
a good oven, and serve while hot.
Mutton Tea. — This is used and made like beef tea. Chop
off all the fat from lib. of Mutton, and cut it into slices,
put it into a saucepan, pour over 1 4 pints of boiling-
water, boil for an-liour-and-a-half, and it is ready for
use. It may be served with loz. of pearl barley, washed
and macerated in boiling water for an hour, and boiled
with the slices of Mutton. The barley must be well
strained before being used, so that all that is not dis-
solved will be separated.
Neck of Mutton a la Bohemienne. — Trim a neck of
Mutton, beat it well, lay it on a deep dish, and cover
with slices of onions, carrots, turnips, leeks, and pieces of
celery. Pour lqt. of vinegar and 1 pint of broth into a
saucepan, stand it over the fire until boiling, then put in
two blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful each of cloves and
peppercorns, three bay-leaves, a small bunch of sweet
herbs, |lb. of moist sugar, and a small lump of salt.
Boil the liquor for twenty minutes, then move it off the
fire. When cold, pour the pickle over the vegetables and
meat, and let it marinade for three days, turning it each
day. At the end of that time, make a stiff flour-and-
Mutton — continued.
water paste, drain the meat from the marinade, and wrap
it in the paste, covering it well ; then cover it with thick
paper, and tie it round securely. Roast the Mutton for
two or three hours, according to the size. When cooked,
take it out of the paste, glaze it, and brown under a
salamander. Strain 4 pint of the marinading liquor into a
saucepan, pour in lqt. of brown sauce, and boil it quickly
until reduced to a creamy thickness ; skim it, mix with
it half a small pot of red-currant jelly, two dozen blan-
ched mushrooms, about eighteen pickled onions, and the
same of stoned French olives. Stir the sauce over the lire
until these latter ingredients are thoroughly heated through.
Put the neck of Mutton on to a hot dish, pour the sauce
round, and serve.
Neck of Mutton a la Bretonne. — Chop oft' the chine bones
and scrags of two necks of Mutton, trim them to a nice
shape, and roast in front of a clear fire, keeping them well
basted. A pint of French haricot beans should have been
put in water the night before, and well soaked. Drain
the beans, put them in a saucepan with fresh water, loz.
of butter, and a lump of salt, and boil until tender. As
the beans will require much longer cooking than the
Mutton, they should lie put over the fire some time before
the Mutton goes down. Peel and thinly slice three large
onions, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter or
clarified fat, and fry until nicely browned ; dredge a small
quantity of flour over them, and pour in 2 breakfast-
cupfuls of clear gravy. Stir the sauce over the fire until
boiling, put in the beans, with a small piece of glaze
about the size of a walnut, season to taste with salt
and pepper, and stir until the glaze has dissolved. When
cooked, put the Mutton on a hot dish, pour the sauce
round, and serve.
Neck of Mutton a la Charte. — Chop off the chine-bones
and scrag of a neck of Mutton, and trim it neatly ; lard
it with thin strips of bacon, put it into a stewpan with
slices of bacon and vegetables, moisten with broth, and
braise it. Peel and wash about half-a-dozen young turnips,
and cut them into balls with a vegetable-scoop ; put 1
teaspoonful of moist sugar in a stewpan, place it over a
brisk fire, and when it begins to brown put in 2oz. of
butter and the turnips ; toss them about until they are
nicely glazed, then pour in 3 breakfast-cupfuls of brown
sauce and 1 breakfast-cupful of broth. Boil the turnips
gently until tender, then take them out of the liquor,
skim it, and boil it quickly until reduced to a creamy
consistency. Strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve,
return it to the stewpan with the turnips, and keep them
hot at the side of the fire. Peel and trim a dozen small
turnips to a pear shape, and boil them in stock until
tender. When cooked, put the Mutton on a hot dish, pour
the balls of turnips and sauce over it, pile the pear-shaped
turnips at each end in pyramids, and serve immediately.
Neck of Mutton a la Provenpale. — Remove the scrag and
chine-bones from a neck of Mutton, trim it to a nice
shape, and lard it with thin strips of bacon. Put it in a
saucepan with two onions with three cloves stuck in each,
one carrot and turnip cut into slices, a bunch of sweet
herbs, two bay -leaves, and a blade of mace. Moisten the
meat to height with white broth, put the lid on the sauce-
pan, and place it over the fire until the broth boils, then
move it to the side and let it simmer for two hours. Peel
and chop four large onions, put them in a stewpan with a
few drops of salad-oil, and stir them over a moderate fire
until lightly browned ; dredge them over with flour, stir in
gradually l breakfast-cupful of white sauce and 4 break-
fast-cupful of stock, and simmer gently at the side of the
fire until the onions are tender. Season the sauce to taste
with pepper, salt, and 1 scant teaspoonful of moist sugar,
and stir in quickly the beaten yolks of two eggs. The
sauce must not boil after the eggs are added. When
cooked, lay the Mutton on a dish, spread the sauce over it,
brush the top over with beaten egg, and strew fine bread-
crumbs over it ; brown under a salamander or in a brisk
oven. Put 14 breakfast -cupfuls of brown sauce in a stew-
pan with 1 breakfast-cupful of broth and a piece of glaze
the size of a walnut, and boil until reduced to a creamy
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
995
Mutton — continued.
consistency, keeping it well -skimmed and seasoning with a
very small quantity of scraped garlic. Pour the sauce
round the Mutton, and serve. The garlic may he omitted.
Necks of Mutton with Vegetables. — Trim the scrags off
two necks of Mutton, remove the chine-hones, and lard the
lean meat with hacon. Cover some thick sheets of paper
with slices of onions, carrots, and turnips, also a few sprigs
of thyme and parsley and three or four hay-leaves, place
the necks on the vegetables, and wrap the paper round
them. Fix them on a spit and roast in front of a clear
lire, hasting continually. When nearly cooked, remove the
paper and vegetables from the necks. In the meantime,
prepare and boil separately in white stock a sufficient
quantity of small onions, carrots, turnips, a cauliflower,
and a small hunch of asparagus ; boil and mash a few
pounds of potatoes, fill a border-mould with some, and
keep it hot in a bain-marie. Place the necks of Mutton
on a hot dish, fill up the gaps between them with mashed
potatoes, and turn the border of potatoes round the dish.
Break the branches of the cauliflower apart, and arrange
them tastefully with the other vegetables on the dish.
Glaze the Mutton, pour a thin glaze over the vegetables,
and serve. If arranged carefully and with taste, this dish
can be made to look very pretty ; the vegetables should be
placed so that the colours form . a good contrast.
Oxford John. — Select a leg of Mutton that is well hung and
rather high; cut it into eollops as thin as possible, removing
all the sinews. Sprinkle them over with mace, minced
shallots, parsley, and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, and
put them in a saucepan with 3oz. of butter. Stir them well
over a slow fire until done, and add the juice of a lemon,
1 breakfast-cupful of gravy, and thicken with a little butter
Fig. 1234. Oxford John.
rolled in flour. Put the pan at the side of the fire and
simmer gently for five minutes or so. Take them out, put them
on a dish, and serve with a garnish of pieces of fried bread.
See Fig. 1234.
Pot-Pourri of Mutton. — Bone a leg of Mutton without
cutting it open, and lard it inside with small strips of fat
bacon and ham. Sew it up to form a round, put it in a
basin, sprinkle over salt and pepper, add a few sweet
herbs, peppercorns, and cloves, and pour over 1 pint of
burgundy wine ; cover the basin with a cloth and let it
remain in a cool place for four hours or so. Cover the
bottom of an earthenware stockpot with a few layers of
bacon, put the leg of Mutton on them, and surround it
with a few onions, four large carrots cut in pieces, and lib.
of pork-rinds blanched and cut in squares. Pour over the
liquor, &c., from the marinade, cover over the pot with a
piece of paper first and then a plate half-full of water,
put the pot on tiie fire, boil up the contents, and then
remove it to some hot ashes, surrounding it to half its
height. It requires to boil gently and keep at the same
temperature while cooking. When it is done, take it out,
drain, and put it on a dish with the vegetables, &c.,
placed round it. Skim off all the fat from the cooking-
stock, strain it, pour it over, and serve.
Potted Mutton. — Chop up some cold cooked Mutton, remove
all the skin and sinew, and pound it in a mortar with
half its bulk of cooked bacon. Sprinkle over a little allspice,
salt and pepper to taste, and put it into a jar in a sauce-
pan of water and boil until the mass is warmed quite
through. Take out the jar, stir frequently until the meat is
nearly cold, squeeze it into small pots, let them remain
Mutton — continued.
for a day, then cover with clarified butter or hot mutton-
suet so as to exclude all air.
Rechauffe of Mutton. — (1) Put 2 table-spoonfuls of butter
into a frying-pan over the lire, and when it is melted add 1
table-spoonful of flour : stir continually until it is smooth,
and add gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of stock and 2 table-
spoonfuls of glaze. Boil gently for a minute and add the
yolks of two eggs, season with salt and pepper, add 1 table-
spoonful of lemon- juice, and remove it at once from the fire.
Cut some cold cooked Mutton into slices about 4in. thick,
sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and when the mixture
is cool dip them in it so as to cover both sides ; roll them
in breadcrumbs, and then dip them into the whites of three
eggs and the yolk of one well beaten together, and lastly
into breadcrumbs again. Put them into a frying-pan of
boiling fat and fry for two minutes. Drain them well on
paper, put them on a dish, pour some tomato or hollandaise
sauce over, and serve. A little of the fat should lie cut
off if there is too much.
(2) Cut any cold Mutton into slices, rub a dish over
with garlic, butter it thickly, lay. the slices of meat on it,
sprinkle over a few finely-chopped mushrooms, moisten
with a little white wine arid stock in equal quantities,
season with salt and pepper, strew thickly with finely-
grated breadcrumb, place a few pieces of butter about on
the top, and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
When ready, serve the meat in the dish in which it was
cooked, while very hot.
(3) Cut any cold Mutton into slices about 4 in. thick, and
trim them as near as possible to the same shape. Season
some grated breadcrumb with powdered sweet herbs, salt,
and pepper ; dip the pieces of meat first in well-beaten
egg and then in the seasoned crumbs, giving them a good
coating, leave them for an hour or two, then egg-and-
breadcrumb them again. Melt a large lump of lard or
clarified fat in a flat stewpan, put in the pieces of meat,
and fry them until nicely browned ; then drain, place them on
a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve with a sauceboatful of tomato or any other sauce.
(4) Peel and slice as thinly as possible a moderate-sized
onion, and fry it in butter until nicely browned ; dredge
over with flour, and pour in 4 pint of warm water. Stir
over the fire until boiling and thickened, flavour with
Worcestershire or any sauce liked, and colour with burnt-
sugar colouring. Cut the cold Mutton into nice-shaped
pieces, put them in a stewpan, and strain the sauce over
them. Stew very gently at the edge of the fire until the
meat is very hot, then turn the hash on to a hot dish,
garnish with crofttons of fried bread or sippets of toast,
and serve.
Red Mutton Stew (Turkish). — Cut some leg of Mutton into
small pieces; wash them, put them into a saucepan with
salt and pepper and sufficient water to cover, and boil till
tender. Scald 1 breakfast-cupful of chick-peas, put them
in with the meat, skimming the liquor, and boil them till
tender. Slice three onions, fry them in butter till brown,
then add them to the stew. Put some slices of toast at
the bottom of a hot dish, pour the stew over, and serve.
Roasted, Boned, and Stuffed Leg of Mutton. — (1) The
principal difficulty in accomplishing this dish is the
boning; this must be done with a very sharp knife.
Commence on the under-side of the joint, passing the knife
under the skin until exactly over the bone, then cut down
to it ; pass the knife round close to the bone right up to
the socket, remove the large bone of the thickest end of
the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the bone, draw out
the remaining bones which will come away easily, and stuff
the cavity with highly-seasoned forcemeat. Fasten the
knuckle end tightly over, replace the bone at the base of
the joint, and sew it in. Put it in front of a clear fire,
baste well until done, and serve with gravy.
(2) Take a leg of Mutton weighing about 71b., bone it,
and fill the cavity with some veal stuffing mixed with
about 3oz. of ham or bacon. Sew up the hole to prevent
the forcemeat coming out, tie the leg round with string,
and put it before a clear fire to roast. When done (it
4 C 2
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
996
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
will take about three hours), take oft' the string, put it on
a dish with some brown gravy poured round it, and serve
hot.
Roasted, Boned, and Stuffed Shoulder of Mutton. — Bone
the shoulder, but leave the knuckle-bone in ; flatten the
meat out on the table, and season it interiorly with salt
and pepper. Mince Mb. of cold boiled bacon, and mix
with it half its weight of grated breadcrumb, a small
quantity each of grated nutmeg and powdered thyme, the
grated peel of half a lemon, and salt and pepper to taste.
Bind the mixture with beaten yolk of egg, and spread it
over the Mutton, leaving a clear margin all round the
edge of the meat. Roll the shoulder up tightly, and bind
it round with tape. Fix the joint in front of a clear but
not fierce fire, and roast it slowly for two hours, keeping
it well basted. While it is being cooked, prepare a nicely -
flavoured gravy with the bones. When cooked, place the
meat on a hot dish, pour some of the gravy round it, and
serve with the remainder in a sauceboat.
Roasted Fillet of Mutton.— -Cut off the chump end of a
loin of Mutton, cover with paper, and put it in front of
a clear fire to roast. Let i,t remain for two hours, taking-
care that it does not brown in the slightest, and glaze it.
Put some well-drained boiled French beans in the gravy,
warm them up, turn them out on to a dish, place the
meat on the top, and serve.
Roasted Fore-quarter of Mutton. — Select a young and
tender forequarter of Mutton, wrap it up in sheets of well-
buttered paper, and put it on the spit in front of a clear
fire to roast. When done, remove it, put it on a dish
over a pur tie of haricot beans, and serve very hot.
Roasted Haunch of Mutton. — (1) Select a haunch of
Mutton that has been hanging for about a fortnight,
remove all the skin that covers the fat, take out the shank-
bone, cover it with well-buttered paper, and put it in
front of a clear fire to roast. Baste frequently, and when
it has been cooking for about two hours put it nearer the
Fig. 1235. Roasted Haunch of Mutton.
fire so as to brown ; dust it over with salt and a little
flour, and baste with butter. When quite done, place it
on a dish, put a paper frill on the shank-bone (see Fig.
1235), pour over 1 wineglassful of port wine mixed with
some gravy, and serve with red-currant jelly sauce.
(2) Wash a haunch of Mutton with vinegar, wipe it dry,
and let it hang. Repeat this washing every day for a
fortnight. Stick a few cloves in the knuckle, put the haunch
in a saucepan, pour over it 1 pint of port wine, and let it
remain for a day, basting frequently with the wine. Re-
move the knuckle rather close to the joint of the leg, cut
off the skin that covers the fat, cover the haunch with pieces
of buttered paper, put it on a spit at a little distance
from the lire, and cook until it is thoroughly warmed
through. Then put it a little nearer the fire, and continue
in this way until it is thoroughly done, basting well.
When it is nearly done, remove the paper, sprinkle it
over with flour, and brown it well. Put it on a dish, with
a frill of paper round the bone, pour over 1 pint of gravy
mixed with a little port wine, and serve with red-currant
jelly.
(3) Trim a haunch of Mutton, wrap it in a sheet of
buttered paper, fix it on the spit, and roast ; ten minutes
before taking it from the fire remove the paper to brown
Mutton — continued.
it nicely. Peel about 21b. of young carrots, put them in
a pan of boiling water for five minutes, then drain them,
and leave till cool. Cut the carrots into slices, put them
in a saucepan with a lump of butter, 1 saltspoonful of salt,
| teaspoonful of moist sugar, and a little more than \ tea-
cupful of water. Stand the saucepan over the fire till the
water begins to boil, then move it to the side and let it
simmer for twenty minutes. When the carrots are tender,
mix the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten together
with 2 table-spoonfuls of cream with them, add Joz.
of butter, and a small quantity of chopped parsley, stir
till thick, but do not boil after the eggs are added.
When cooked, take the meat off the spit, place it on
a hot dish, put the carrots round, and serve it with a
sauceboatful of rich gravy.
(4) Wrap a sheet of oiled or buttered paper round the
haunch, fix it on the spit, and roast it in front of a clear,
even fire ; fifteen minutes before removing the meat from
the fire, take off the paper so that it may get a good
brown colour. Peel some small, equal-sized onions, blanch
them for five minutes in boiling water, then refresh them
in cold water, and leave till cool. Put the onions in a
stewpan with a lump of butter, season with a small
quantity of salt and sugar, and fry till browned. Pour
Iqt. of Spanish sauce over, and boil them till the sauce
has reduced to 1 i pints. Boil some white haricot beans in
water with butter, salt, one onion, and a bunch of sweet
herbs, and when soft strain them, pass the onions and
sauce through a fine hair sieve, return the puree to the
saucepan, mix the beans with it, also a small lump of
butter, and some meat glaze. When the meat is cooked,
put it on a hot dish, glaze it, and place a paper frill
round the knuckle. Serve the haunch with the purde and
beans in a separate dish.
(5) Cut oft' the knuckle rather close to the joint, notch
the cramp-bone so as to allow the thick part or cushion
to draw up and give the haunch a plump appearance;
trim off the thick skin at the flank and round oft' the
corner of the fat so as to give the joint a neat shape.
Cover the fat with oiled paper, and roast before a good
clear fire. About fifteen minutes before the joint is cooked
remove the paper, so as to brown the fat ; put it when
cooked on a dish, and serve with red-currant jelly and
rich wine sauce in a sauceboat. A haunch weighing from
141b. to 161b. will take from three hours to three- hours-
and-a-half to roast, but if required to be very well done
it should be left a little longer.
Roasted Larded Heck of Mutton.— Remove the chine-
bone from a neck of Mutton, and cut the sides straight
and rather short ; then trim the fillet of meat close, remov-
ing some of the fat covering the ribs, but without making
them bare. Lard this fillet with pieces of fat bacon, wrap
it up in a piece of oiled or buttered paper, fasten on to the
spit with a skewer, and roast gently in front of a clear fire.
Baste frequently with butter, and when it has been cook-
ing for forty-five minutes, remove the paper so that it may
brown, and then take it from the spit. Put it on a dish,
sprinkle over salt, and serve with gravy poured over and
a garnish of mashed potatoes.
Roasted Leg of Mutton. — (1) Take a leg of Mutton, wipe it
dry, sprinkle it over with pepper and flour, chop off the
knuckle-bone, remove the thick skin, and trim the flank. Put
the leg in the oven (or before the fire) in a roasting-dish,
add a little water and salt, and baste the leg frequently.
Allow about fifteen minutes for every pound if the oven is
very quick, but if the oven is slow about twenty minutes.
When done, put it on a dish, pour the gravy round, and serve
with some currant jelly on a separate dish. If the leg is
too large for roasting, it can be divided, and the knuckle
end either boiled or the cut end covered with paste made
of flour and water and boiled.
(2) Take a fat, plump leg of Mutton and beat it with a
cutlet-bat to bruise the fibres ; round the top part, break
up the knuckle sinew by doubling over the leg, and saw
off the thin end bone. Put it in a roasting-pan or dish, dust-
over with salt, smear over a little butter or lard, and
cover it with a piece of well -greased paper. Put it into
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fc c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
997
Mutton — continued.
the oven or before the fire and cook it until done, basting
frequently. For a leg weighing 61b. about an hour will
be quite sufficient to cook it. When done put it on a
dish, remove the paper, and pour over h pint of gravy
mixed with its stock, boiled, strained, and skimmed of its
fat, and serve.
(3) Take a leg of Mutton that has been hung until it is
quite tender ; lard it with fillets of anchovies, bacon, and
garlic, and wrap it round in a sheet of greased paper. Put
it to roast in front of the fire, and when done put it on
a dish, remove the paper, and serve very hot with a garnish
of cooked vegetables.
(4) Carefully remove the thick skin from a leg of Mutton,
trim off the piece of flank that adheres to the fat, and
flatten the fat with a cutlet-bat. Chop off the knuckle,
and nick the cramp-bone so as to allow the thick part to
draw up and give the leg a plump appearance. Set the
Mutton in a roasting-pan, and roast it until done, basting
with its own liquor seasoned with salt. Serve hot with
red-currant jelly separate.
Roasted Leg of Mutton a la Portugaise.— Take a medium-
sized leg of Mutton, cut off the shank-bone, trim well,
and make an incision at the first joint. Season with 2
pinches of salt and h pinch of pepper ; rub 4oz. of butter
over it, and roast for one hour in a pan, basting occasion-
ally with the gravy, and turning it once in a while.
Remove from the oven, dress on a hot dish, and serve
with three stuffed tomatoes and three timbales of cooked
rice, straining the gravy over, or it may be garnished with
red or white beans cooked in gravy.
Roasted Leg of Mutton a la Russe. -Select a young and
tender leg, beat it a little with a cutlet-bat in order to
bruise it, and put it in front of a clear fire to roast,
basting frequently. When nearly done, remove it from
the fire, put it in a shallow pan, pour in 1 pint of brandy,
put the pan over the fire, and when the brandy is quite
hot set fire to it, turning the leg round until the brandy
has burnt out. Pour in a little veal stock, simmer gently
for a few minutes, put the leg on a dish, skim off the fat
from the liquor, pour it over, and serve.
Roasted Mutton a la Turke. — In Turkey this is called
Shaslii-kebassi, which means “ roast of the street,” and
is prepared as follows : Cut the meat of a leg or loin of
Mutton into large squares, sprinkle them with salt and
pepper, and baste with onion-juice. Put the pieces of meat
on long skewers, and broil them over a clear fire until
done. Place them on a dish, remove the skewers, pour
some cream (yaour) over them, and serve.
Roasted Leg of Mutton like Game. -Trim off the skin
and beat a leg of Mutton that has been well hung ; rub it
over well with pepper, salt, and powdered cloves or all-
spice, lard the meat, dredge it with flour, and roast it in
front of a clear fire, dredging occasionally with flour, and
basting it with milk. When cooked and richly browned,
put the meat on a hot dish, garnish it with cut lemons, i
and serve with a sauceboatful of rich piquant sauce.
Roasted Leg of Mutton with Oysters.— Rub a leg of
Mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit in front
of a clear fire to roast, basting frequently. When about
three-parts done, remove it from the fire, and with a
sharp knife make cuts all over. Stuff an oyster into each
hole or incision, put it back again, and finish roasting.
Put the leg on a dish, add 1 wineglassful of red wine to
the gravy, boil it up, pour it over the leg, and serve.
Roasted Neck of Mutton. — Cut oft' the fat from 41b. of
the middle or best end of a neck of Mutton, chop the
bones short, and disjoint them. Put the Mutton before a
clear fire, dust it over with flour, and baste frequently.
When it is nearly done, put it closer to the fire, sprinkle
it over with salt, and finish the cooking. When done,
put it on a dish, pour the dripping from the pan, add a
little boiling water to the sediment, stir it well, strain it, |
pour it over the meat, and serve with a little red-currant
jelly.
Roasted Rolled Loin of Mutton. — Remove all the bones
from a loin of Mutton weighing about 31b., take out the
Mutton — continued.
fillet, and mince it very fine. Add to the mince an equal
quantity of breadcrumbs, one minced shallot, a little
chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient
egg to make it into a stiff paste. Put this on the Mutton,
tie it over tightly with string, rub it well with Hour,
sprinkle over some salt and pepper, and place it in a slow
oven to roast. Put a few onions into a frying-pan with the
Fig. 1236. Roasted Rolled Loin of Mutton.
bones, fry them until they are brown, pour in a little
stock, and thicken with flour. Put the meat, when done,
on a dish, pour the gravy round, and serve with a garnish
of glazed onions (see Fig. 1236).
Roasted Stuffed Loin of Mutton. — Bone a loin of Mutton,
trim off some of the fat, and then beat it with a rolling-
pin to flatten it as much as possible. Mix together \oz.
of sweet almonds, blanched, boiled for ten minutes, and
pounded to a paste, ^lb. of Mutton-suet skinned and
chopped fine, loz. of sifted breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of
chopped parsley, 4 teaspoonful of mixed herbs powdered or
chopped fine, a seasoning of pepper and salt, a very little
cayenne, a little grated nutmeg and grated lemon-peel,
the yolks of two eggs, and the white of one. When this
stuffing is thoroughly mixed, spread it evenly over the
inner side of the Mutton, roll it neatly, skewer it, tie it,
and then roast it in front of a good fire, keeping it well
basted. Put the bones in a pan over the fire with half a
head of celery, half a carrot, an onion, a shallot, and a
very small piece of garlic ; pour over them about 1 pint of
water, and let them stew for three hours. Strain the
liquor and add to it a little salt, 1 teaspoonful of soy,
1 dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and 1 table-
spoonful of flour blended smooth with a little of the liquor
before mixing it with the whole quantity. Stir it till it
boils, and boil for ten minutes, stirring occasionally, then
mix in 1 glass of port wine. When the Mutton is dished,
pour the gravy over it, and serve very hot.
Roasted. Saddle of Mutton. — (1) Take out the kidneys
from a saddle of Mutton, remove the skin covering the fat,
and tie it round with string. Put it into a baking-dish, mask
it with vegetables and a little fat, pour over a little
warmed water, and put it into a hot oven to roast. Baste
frequently, and in about forty-five minutes’ time (when it
should lie done) sprinkle with salt and pepper, put it on
a dish, garnish with small balls of potatoes fried in butter,
and serve with a sauceboatful of gravy.
(2) Remove all the skin from a saddle of Mutton, cover
it with a piece of well-buttered paper, and put it in front
of a clear fire to roast. When nearly done, remove the
paper, sprinkle with flour and salt, and pour over it a
little warmed butter. When done, put it on a dish, skim
off the fat from the liquor, pour it over, and serve. Red-
currant jelly should be served separately.
(3) Pare and trim a fine saddle of Mutton weighing
about 61b. ; lift off the upper skin, make one slight
incision in the middle, also three on each side ; tie it
firmly together with three strings so that it retains its
shape, season with a good pinch of salt, and it will then
be ready to roast. Place the saddle in a roasting-pan,
add 1 gill of cold water, put it in a moderate oven,
and let it cook for about an hour, basting it fre-
quently with its own gravy, and serve on a very hot dish.
Skim off all the fat, strain the gravy into a sauce-bowl,
and serve separately. Should the saddle be of heavier
weight, say 12lb. to 14lb., about two hours will be ne-
cessary to cook it. Red-currant jelly should be served
separately.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see tinder their special heads.
998
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
Roasted Saddle of Mutton with Chestnut Puree. — Trim
both fillets of a saddle of Southdown Mutton, lard them,
fix them on a spit, and roast in front of a clear fire, hasting
constantly. When cooked (it will take about three -quarters-
of-an-hour) remove the saddle from the spit, dust some salt
over, and cut the fillets in slices, in rather a slanting
direction, letting them adhere to a small part of the fat.
Cut off the sides of the saddle, place them on a remove-
dish, forming with them a kind of support, on which
arrange the carved fillets of the saddle. Serve it with a
separate dish of chestnut puree and a sauceboatful of
melted half-glaze.
Rolled Neck of Mutton. — With a sharp knife remove the
skin from a piece of the best cr.d of neck of Mutton,
saw off the hones, reserving the cutlets for another time.
Take the pieces of meat that were left on the bones and
trimmings, lay some on the skin with a few pieces of
bacon, and put the rest in a mortar with any trim-
mings of either cooked or uncooked meat that may he
handy, half a chopped onion, and about 2oz. of butter ;
pound the mixture until smooth, and season it to taste
with salt, pepper and powdered sweet herbs. Pass the
pounded mixture through a fine hair sieve, and spread
it on the skin over the pieces of bacon, &c. Fold the
skin over about bin. at each side, then roll it up tightly
lengthwise, completely enclosing the meat ; bind it round
several times with thread. Peel and slice an onion, put it
in a stewpan with a piece of bacon-fat, and fry it ; next
put in the meat, turn it about two or three times over
the fire until it has slightly browned, then moisten to
about half its height with nicely-flavoured stock, and let it
boil gently at the edge of the fire until cooked. When
ready remove the thread, place the meat on a hot dish,
strain its cooking-liquor over, and serve.
Rolled Shoulder of Mutton. — (1) Take out the bone from
a shoulder of Mutton, and with a sharp knife cut out all
the lean, leaving the fat and skin intact ; finely mince
the lean, season it highly with pepper, salt, finely-chopped
parsley, lemon-thyme, spring-onions, lemon-peel, and a
small quantity of grated nutmeg ; make the whole into a
mass by adding a well-beaten egg or two, put all back
again into the skin, roll it up as tightly as possible, and
bake for two-hours-and-a-half in a moderate oven. Pre-
pare a gravy with the bones and trimmings well seasoned
with pepper and salt, add also one onion, 1 table-spoonful
or so each of vinegar and soy, and 1 wineglassful of port
wine; when hot, pour it over the Mutton on a dish, and
serve.
(2) Mix with 1 teacupful of grated stale breadcrumb 2
table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped suet and 1 table-spoonful
of chopped parsley ; season them with salt and pepper, and
bind the mixture with beaten egg. Stuff a boned shoulder
of Mutton with the dressing, roll it, and tie it loosely
with twine. Put Jib. of butter into a saucepan over the
fire, and when it lias melted put in the shoulder and place
the lid over. Turn the meat occasionally and baste it
well. In about an-hour-and -three-quarters’ time, put the
meat on a hot dish; drain the butter out of the saucepan,
and pour in 1 teacupful of water, stir it well to mix in
the browning at the bottom of the pan, season with a
small quantity of salt and pepper, boil it, then pour it
over the Mutton, and serve.
(3) Select a shoulder that is not too fat, and bone it
carefully as far as the first joint from the knuckle, season-
ing it well with salt and pepper. Finely chop Jib. of beef-
suet, and mix it with ill), of grated breadcrumb, one
finely-chopped onion, 1 table-spoonful each of chopped
thyme and parsley, The grated peel of half a lemon, and
sa.lt, pepper, and grated nutmeg in moderate quantities.
Bind the mixture with a beaten egg, stuff the boned
shoulder with it, and tie it tightly round with string ; put
plenty of clarified butter in a flat stewpan, and when
boiling put in the Mutton and fry it a pale golden brown
all over. Put the Mutton into another stewpan, with a
few slices of carrots, onions, and any other kind of vege-
table that may be handy, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few
cloves and peppercorns, and 1 h pints of common stock.
When boiling, move the stewpan to the side of the fire,
Mutton — continued.
and stew gently for two hours. At the end of that time,
strain the gravy off from the Mutton into a smaller sauce-
pan, skim off all the fat, and boil it quickly until reduced
to a glaze. Put the Mutton on a hot dish, pour the glaze
over, and serve.
(4) Put into a small saucepan two bay-leaves, one onion, a
few sprigs of parsley and lemon- thyme, a small piece of ginger,
1 teaspoonful each of peppercorns and pimento-berries, a few
cloves, 4 table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, 1 teacupful of
claret, 4 teacupful of vinegar, and 1 pint of water. Stir
the mixture over the fire until on the point of boiling, then
move it away and leave until cold. Having selected a
nice fresh shoulder of Mutton, put it into a shallow pan,
pour the abjve marinade over, and leave it for four or five
days, turning and basting well every day. When ready,
bone the shoulder carefully and prepare the following
mixture for it : Mix with about fib. of sausage-meat 1
table-spoonful of finely-grated breadcrumb, 2 table-spoonfuls
of truffles cut into small pieces, salt and pepper to taste,
and sufficient beaten egg to bind it without making it too
soft. Stuff the shoulder with the mixture, shape it nicely
and tie it round with tape ; dredge it plentifully with
flour, and roast it in front of a clear fire, basting frequently.
Put the bones of the shoulder into a saucepan with 1 pint
of water and \ teacupful of the marinade mixture, and
boil it until reduced to 4 pint. Put lib. of French plums
into a stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of loaf sugar and
sufficient water and claret in equal quantities to moisten
them to height ; stew them gently until tender. Put loz.
of butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour in a small stewpan
and stir it over the fire until browned, then strain hi the
liquor from the bones and all the gravy that has dripped
from the meat ; stir it over the fire until boiling. Place
the Mutton on a hot dish, pour the prunes and their liquor
round it, and serve with the gravy in a sauceboat.
Rolled Under-cut of Shoulder of Mutton. — Season the
meat well with salt and pepper ; prepare a savoury force-
meat of herbs with plenty of parsley, but without eggs,
and fill the inside of the meat with it, rolling up tightly
to an oval shape and binding round with tape. Put it in
a stewpan with two or three carrots and onions, a bay-leaf,
and a bunch of herbs ; season with salt and pepper, moisten
with a small quantity of cold water, cover with the lid, and
stew over a slow fire, keeping it well basted. When nearly
cooked, remove the cover from the pan, and brown the
meat in the oven. When ready, place the meat on a hot
dish and carefully remove the bindings. Strain what
remains of the cooking-liquor, skim off all the fat, and boil
down until reduced to a strong glaze. Pour the glaze over
the meat, and serve with a sauceboatful of cucumber
sauce.
Saddle of Mutton a la Portugaise. — (1) Put 2qts. of port
wine into a saucepan with 1 pint each of vinegar and stock,
add a seasoning of cloves, allspice, and bay-leaves, also six
chopped shallots, three onions, and two carrots, and boil.
Trim off the tail part of a saddle of Mutton and cut away
the superfluous fat, pour over the boiling marinade, and
leave it for four or five days, turning it frequently. Fix
it on a spit, tie it up in paper, and roast for about three
hours in front of a clear fire. When nearly done, remove
the paper, and put the joint on a dish ; strain some of the
liquor, add to it a little red-currant jelly and rich gravy,
boil for a few minutes, and pour it over the meat. The
saddle will be quite black in appearance, but the taste
will be superb.
(2) To make this dish look well, the saddle should be so
carved as to leave the sides. When cold, put the under-cut
and surplus meat cut up small into a stewpan with a few
drops of mushroom ketchup, a minced pickled gherkin, and
a small quantity of thickened gravy, but not sufficient to be
too liquid. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep
at the side of the fire until very hot, but without allowing
it to boil. Spread the mixture on the saddle, in the space
from which the meat has been cut, level it at the
sides, strew grated breadcrumb over, and place it in the
oven. When hot, if not sufficiently browned, pass the
salamander over the breadcrumbs, place the saddle on a
hot dish, and serve with a dish of red-currant jelly.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, ice., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
999
Mutton — continued.
(3) Trim off the fat from the top and flaps of a saddle
of Mutton, and chop off the tail. Put Jgall. of port or other
red wine into a saucepan with 1 pint of vinegar, two
carrots, three or four onions, eight or nine turnips, and
three shallots, all exit very fine ; add ten cloves and three
hay-leaves and boil over a clear fire. Pour the port wine
liquor over the meat and let it soak for five or six days,
turning it frequently. Take it out, drain, cover it over
with a piece of well -buttered paper, and roast for about
three hours in front of a clear fire. When done, take off
the paper, dish up, and pour over 1 teacupful of the liquor
in which it was soaked, well strained and having 2
table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly beaten and mixed in.
Serve very hot.
Saddle of Mutton en Surprise. — Scoop out the meat from
a cold saddle of Mutton, cutting it close to the bone, and
leaving an outside thickness of about 1 fin. wide. Mince
the meat finely with a little of the fat, and mix with it
2 table-spoonfuls of chopped onions fried in a little butter
for a minute ; dust over 1 table-spoonful of flour and 1 salt-
spoonful each of salt and pepper, and add one bay-leaf and
a little cayenne. Pour 1 breakfast-cupful of broth into a
saucepan, stir in the meat mixture, cook gently for ten
minutes, and add the well -beaten yolks of two eggs. Work
two pounds of boiled potatoes into a stiff paste in a basin,
roll out, and form into an edging round the saddle of
Mutton, filling the cavity scooped out of the joint with
the meat mixture. Brash all over with egg, cover with
breadcrumbs, and brown in a quick oven on a baking-sheet
for a few minutes. Take it out, and serve on a dish with
Spanish sauce poured round.
Saddle of Mutton in German Style. —Select a saddle of
Mutton without ribs, take off all the skin and fat, but
re-cover the tun fillets. Cut the skirt part square, fold it
underneath, and tie round ; lard the two loins with strips
of fat bacon, sprinkle over with salt, and either roast in
Fig. 1237. Saddle of Mutton in German Style.
the oven or on a spit in front of a clear fire, basting
frequently. When done, remove the string, dish up with
a garnish of potato croquettes piled in small heaps (see Fig.
1237), and serve with some good gravy in a sauceboat.
Sausartees or Sasatijs (A Cape Dish). — Cut the best
part of a leg of Mutton into small squares; peel and chop
three or four large onions, put them into a flat stewpan
with a lump of butter, and fry until tender. Mix the
onions with 1 table-spoonful of the best curry powder,
and 1 breakfast-cupful of tamarind water, or, failing that,
the same quantity of vinegar ; put the meat into this, stir
up well, and let it stand all night. Thread the meat on
very thin wooden skewers, alternating the fat and lean,
and grill on a gridiron over a clear but not too fierce fire.
Put the flavouring mixture into a small saucepan and
make it very hot. When the meat is cooked, lay it, still
on the skewers, on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish
with plain boiled rice, and serve.
Scotch Mutton Broth. — Put 41b. of Mutton into a sauce-
pan with two carrots, one turnip, and one onion all chopped
small and well washed ; add \ peck of green peas, a
little parsley, 8oz. of pearl barley, and 1 teaspoonful each
of salt and pepper. Pour over about 5qts. of water, put
the pan over the fire, and boil the contents, skimming fre-
quently ; or the meat may be put in first and boiled, and
skimmed until no more scum rises : then the vegetables can
be added, and boiled until done. Strain the broth into a
soup-tureen, and serve. Oatmeal may be substituted for
the pearl barley.
Mutton — continued.
Scotch Soup. — Take 51b. or 61b. of the scrag end of a neck of
Mutton, chop the bones, and put it in a saucepan over the
fire with Jib. of barley and 5qts. of cold water. Bring slowly
to the boil, and simmer for half-an-hour. Add three turnips,
two leeks, and a carrot all cut small, a small stick of celery,
a little pepper and salt, and J pint of dried green peas, and
let all simmer together for two-hours-and-a-half or three
hours. The peas should be steeped in cold soft water the
whole of the previous night, and the soup should be carefully
and constantly skimmed all the time it is boiling. Serve
the meat on a dish with a few boiled turnips, and the
soup in a tureen.
Scrag of Mutton a la Russe. — Put ljlb. of scrag of
Mutton into a saucepan with lqt. of water, a turnip, two
onions, one carrot, and a little salt and pepper, and boil
gently for three hours or so. When done and perfectly
tender so that the bones can' be easily removed, brush it
over with egg, and cover with a mixture of breadcrumbs,
flour, finely-minced parsley, salt, and pepper. Put it in
a baking-dish in a Dutch oven, baste it frequently with
a little butter, and when quite done put it on a dish,
and pour round good gravy or brown caper sauce.
Scrag of Mutton ii, la St. Menehould. -Select the narrow
part of a neck of Mutton, having the two scrags united.
Put it iuto a bowl of water, leave it for a day or so, then
drain, and hang it up in a cool place for two days.
Next put it into a stewpan with slices of fat bacon both
under and over it, add also about 21b. of scrag of veal,
three large carrots and onions, a bunch of sweet herbs,
two or three bay-leaves, 1 table-spoonful of peppercorns,
and sufficient beef broth to cover. Set the pan on the
side of the fire, and simmer gently for four hours. Strain
off the liquor, cover the meat with well-seasoned bread-
crumbs and brown them with a salamander; reduce the
gravy, pour it round the Mutton on a dish, and serve
with tomato sauce, or with stewed spinach or endive round
the dish for garnish.
Shoulder of Mutton with Mushroom Puree.- -Bono the
Mutton with the exception of the shank, which should be
left in, lard it with strips of bacon that have been seasoned
with pepper and salt, and tie it up to a round shape, but
do not roll it. Put it in a stewpan with a lump of butter,
and place it over the fire until nicely browned, turning it
occasionally. Next put in with it three or four moderate-
sized onions, two carrots, and a clove of garlic ; moisten
Fig. 1238. Shoulder of Mutton with Mushroom Puree.
with water, and let it simmer gently for five hours. At
the end of that time, skim the sauce well, boil it until
reduced, and glaze the Mutton. Place it on a hot dish, and
serve with a puree of mushrooms underneath. See Fig. 1238.
Spiced Shoulder of Mutton. -Bone a shoulder of Mutton,
and rub it well with a mixture of 2oz. of sugar, 1 tea-
spoonful each of ground mace and pepper, 1 saltspoonful
of powdered cloves, and 1 pinch of pepper. Continue to
do this for a week or so, letting it remain in the pickle ;
then roll it up, tie it round with string, and put it into
a saucepan with some good beef broth, and stew gently
until done. Put it on a dish, add a little piquant sauce
to the broth, pour it over, and serve.
Squab Pie. (1) Trim off the skin and inside fat from a loin of
Mutton and cut it into thin chops ; peel and core a few
large baking apples, and cut them into slices. Butter a
pie-dish, line it with a thin crust, put in a layer of the
Mutton, then a layer of apples, and next a layer of onions ;
cover these with another layer of meat, and proceed as
For detail s respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads •
1000
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
before until the dish is full, moistening with about 1 pint of
water ; cover the pie with a rather thick ilat of puff paste,
trim it off' round the edges, moisten them with water,
and press together. Make a small hole in the top of the
cover, roll out the trimmings of the paste, cut out some
imitation leaves, damp them underneath with a paste-
brush dipped in a little water, and arrange them taste-
fully on the top of the pie. Bake the pie for two-hours-
and-a-half in a good oven.
(2) Cut the best end of a neck of Mutton into chops,
and remove all the fat. Pare eight apples, cut out the cores,
slice them, put a layer of them at the bottom of a dish
with a little chopped onion interspersed, place a layer of
the chops on these, and so on until the dish is quite full ;
mix with the apples 2oz. of sugar, and salt and pepper
with the meat. Cover the dish with a crust made of light
paste, put it in the oven, and bake until done ; take it out
and serve hot.
Stewed Breast of Mutton. — Bone and score a breast of
Mutton, season it well with cayenne, black pepper, and
salt, and put it into a saucepan with a good supply of
gravy that has had the fat skimmed off; boil until tender,
and place on a dish. Slice a few gherkins, and add them,
together with 1 dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, to
the gravy; boil up again, and pour over the Mutton when
ready.
Stewed Leg of Mutton in Gravy. — Select a small leg of
Mutton and put it into a saucepan with a calf’s foot,
eight carrots and twelve onions cut in slices, and a little
salt (a knuckle of veal may be used instead of the calf’s
foot if desired). Pour in sufficient water to cover, put the
pan over a slow lire, and let it simmer gently. When the
Mutton is about half-done and the meat begins to shrink
from the bone, take it out and put it on a dish to keep
hot. Put the pan on a quick fire, boil until the liquor is
reduced to about 3 pints, then strain it through a sieve,
squeezing the veal and vegetables to extract as much as
possible. Let it cool, remove the fat, pour it back into the
saucepan, and put hi the Mutton ; place the cover over the
pan and boil (not too quickly) for two hours, taking care
to prevent it sticking to the bottom or burning. When done,
put it on a deep dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very
hot.
Stewed Loin of Mutton. — (1) Remove the bone from a
loin of Mutton which should have been hanging for some
time, cut off the skin and all the fat from the inside, then put
it into a stewpan with sufficient rich broth to cover, and
stew gently until done and of a good brown colour. Now
add 1 wineglassful of port wine, 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, a few vegetables cut up, and cook
until all are hot. Serve the loin on a dish with the vege-
tables for garnish and some of the liquor poured over, and
the remainder in a tureen.
(2) Remove the skin from a loin of Mutton, bone it, and
roll it; put it in a stewpan with li pints of water, a piece
of butter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two ; when it has
stewed for nearly four hours, strain the gravy, add 2 table-
spoonfuls of red wine, and serve very hot, with jelly sauce.
Stewed Marinaded Under-Fillets of Mutton. — Cut a
dozen under -fillets of Mutton, flatten them with a cutlet-
bat, and remove all the skin and gristle. Cut them into
long shapes like pears, lard them with pieces of fat bacon,
and put them in a marinade for a day or so. Take them
out, drain on a cloth, and put them in a buttered saute-
pan ; pour over some veal stock or mirepoix, cook them
thoroughly, and glaze, l’ut a few sliced mushrooms in the
centre of a dish, place the fillets round, pour over them a
little poivrade sauce, and serve with more sauce in a
sauceboat.
Stewed Mutton. — (1) Remove the bone from a leg of Mutton,
cut the meat into large squares, put them into a basin,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a bunch of sweet herbs,
pour in 1 wineglassful of vinegar, and let them remain for
a few hours to soak. Take them out, drain them, put them
into a stockpot with lOoz. of fat bacon chopped small and
melted, cook gently for twenty minutes, pour over the
marinade liquor, and add two bay-leaves and a few cloves
Mutton — continued.
of garlic. Let it cook for five minutes longer, then draw
the pot to the side of the fire, cover it with a piece
of paper with a plate on the top, and stew gently until
the meat is done. When ready, take out the meat, put
it on a dish, skim off the fat from the liquor, add 2 or 3
table-spoonfuls of tomato sauce, boil it up once, pour it
through a fine sieve over the meat, and serve with a dish
of rice. The fat from a sheep’s tail, which is used by the
Turks instead of lard or butter, can be substituted for the
bacon-fat.
(2) China Chiloe. — Finely chop sufficient meat from
the neck or from a leg of Mutton to fill 2 breakfast-cups ;
put it into a stewpan with two onions, one lettuce, 2 break-
fast-cupfuls of green peas, salt and pepper to taste, and
about 1 teacupful of cold water ; bring to the boil, add 2oz.
or 3oz. of butter, and simmer gently for about two hours.
Serve hot with boiled rice for garnish.
Stewed Mutton a la Fermiere. — Put into a saucepan 31b.
of breast or shoulder of Mutton cut into square pieces,
with loz. of butter, and six small onions. Cook for ten
minutes or until a good golden colour. Add 3 table-spoon-
fuls of flour, mix well together, and moisten with 3 pints
of light broth or water, stirring continually while boiling.
Season with 1 good table-spoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, and J teaspoonful of nutmeg, adding two carrots
and two turnips, cut in square pieces, a bouquet of sweet
herbs, and one crushed clove of garlic. Cook over a
moderate fire for thirty minutes ; put in J pint of cooked
Lima or haricot beans, and let the whole cook again for
fifteen minutes. Skim off' the fat well, remove the bouquet,
and serve.
Stewed Mutton a la Jardiniere. — (1) Wash and peel two
turnips, scrape and wash one carrot, wash and trim one
head of celery, and divide it lengthwise ; peel one onion,
and lay all these, together with five or six sprigs of cauli-
flower,' in cold water while the meat is being prepared. Take
about 51b. of neck of Mutton in one piece and fry it in
some good dripping till lightly browned on both sides. Then
put it with the vegetables into a good deep saucepan, barely
cover with cold water, and let it stew for one hour, reckon-
ing from the time that the water first begins to simmer.
At the end of the hour take out the vegetables, and put
them away to cool. If the water in the saucepan does not
cover the meat, add enough boiling water to cover it, and
let it stew gently for two hours longer. Pour oft' all the
gravy but i pint, put on the saucepan-lid, and place it
where it will keep hot. Strain the gravy that has been
poured off into a basin, and set it in a pan of cold water
to make the fat rise. When the fat has risen to the top,
skim the gravy, pour it into a saucepan with 1 pint of
tinned tomatoes, and let it boil fast, skimming occasionally.
When it is reduced to half its original quantity, season
with salt and pepper to taste. Blend 1 dessert-spoon-
ful of cornflour to a smooth paste with a little cold
water, and pour this into the gravy and tomatoes. Keep
stirring till it boils, then pour all into the saucepan with
the meat and let it simmer. Cut the vegetables that were
laid aside .to cool into very small pieces. Put loz. of
dripping into a saucepan over the fire, and when it .is
quite hot put the pieces of vegetables in on top of it.
Shake them together till veiy hot, take up the meat, put
it on a large hot dish, pour the gravy and tomatoes over it,
arrange the vegetables round, and serve.
(2) Cut the Mutton from the loin into small pieces, and
lay them in an earthen stewpan that has a closely-fitting lid.
Cut two or three egg-plant fruits into thick slices, nib them
with salt, and let them remain until the bitter juice, is
extracted, then drain and lay them over the meat. String
and cut the ends off two or three dozen okras, also a small
quantity of French beans, peel and slice a vegetable marrow,
half-a-dozen onions, and cut four green tomatoes in four
crosswise. Lay the vegetables in alternate order over, the
meat, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, extract the juice
from lib. of tomatoes, strain, and pour it over the other
ingredients ; season with salt and pepper, and if the meat
is not very fat a small quantity of dissolved butter can be
added. Put the lid on the pan, solder round the edges
with flour-and-water paste to keep it air-tight, and place
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
1001
Mutton — continued.
it in a moderate oven. In about three hours’ time, take
the pan out of the oven, shake it well, then turn the
contents on to a hot dish, dust a small quantity of pow-
dered cinnamon over, and serve.
Stewed Mutton a la Marseillaise. — Proceed as directed for
Stewed Mutton a la Fermiere, hut instead of the
other garnishings add 1 pint of stewed tomatoes, four cloves
of crushed garlic, two chopped onions, and twelve minced
mushrooms. Let this cook for thirty minutes, and serve
with chopped parsley sprinkled over all.
Stewed Mutton a la Portugaise. -Proceed the same as for
Stewed Mutton a la Fermiere, replacing the garnish-
ing with three stuffed tomatoes and three timbales of cooked
ric^, nicely arranged round the dish.
Stewed Muto n a la Sultane. Cut 31b. of Mutton
into slices, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water
to nearly cover, adding a few sliced onions, a small quantity
of butter, and a good flavouring of green ginger, crashed
coriander-seeds, and salt. Boil well until the meat is
perfectly tender, strain off the gravy into a vessel, take out
the meat, put it into another saucepan with butter, and
warm it up, adding a few cloves and other spices. Parboil
lib. of rice in water, put it into a saucepan with the gravy,
add a little cinnamon, and cook until done. Colour half
of this rice with saffron ground in a small quantity of
water, and leave the remaining half white. Put the meat
into another saucepan with the coloured rice on one side
and the plain on the other, pour over melted butter, cover
the pan, and set it at the side of the fire where it will
keep warm. Chop up lib. of uncooked meat, put it into
a saucepan with melted butter and a few onions cut into
slices, add a flavouring of green ginger, salt, and coriander-
seeds, pour in sufficient water to keep the meat from
burning, and simmer gently until done. Take out the
meat, put it into a mortar together with 2oz. of suet, a
few finely-chopped onions, the whites of two eggs, and salt
and pepper to taste. Work the whole into a paste, shape
it into small halls, roll them well in flour, make them
warm in a saucepan with butter and a few cloves, add
4oz. of pounded blanched almonds and more spices as
desired, and continue to cook until the meat halls are well
done. Put the meat and rice on a hot dish, arrange the
meat balls round, and serve.
Stewed Mutton a la Turque. — (1) Trim off' the fat from
the Mutton, and cut the lean into small, equal-sized pieces;
put them in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper, pom-
in sufficient water to cover, and boil them for twenty
minutes. Scald 1 breakfast-cupful of chick-peas, skim the
meat liquor, then put in the peas, with two sliced onions.
Keep the liquor simmering till the peas are tender and it
has reduced to a thick consistency. Line the bottom of a
hot dish with thin slices of toast, pour the stew over them,
and serve while hot.
(2) Cut 31b. of the fillets of Mutton into middling-sized
square pieces, and put them in an earthenware vegetable-
dish ; add a little clarified butter, sprinkle over a little
salt and pepper, cover the pan, put it on the fire, and cook
the contents for ten or twelve minutes. Take out the
meat, add some fresh and young mixed vegetables to the
liquor, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and cook
them for ten minutes. Take the pan off' the fire, make a
hole in the centre of the vegetables, put the meat in this,
cover the pan, put it into a moderate oven, and cook the
contents for an-hour-and-a-half. Take it out when done,
remove all the fat from the liquor, place the pan on a flat
dish, and serve very hot. Any vegetables such as green
peas, onions, pumpkins, beans (kidney or French), and
carrots may be used.
Stewed Mutton Chops.— (1) Take some good chops cut from
the middle of the loin and trim off nearly all the fat.
Then put them into a pot or pan with 1 pinch each of
salt and pepper and an onion finely chopped. The onion
can be dispensed with if objected to. Put in sufficient
water to cover the chops, cover the pan, and put it into a
saucepan with water. Place it over a good fire, and let it
boil gently for an-hour-and-a-half or until the chops are
Mutton — continued.
quite tender. When quite done, take out the chops,
strain the gravy into a basin, put the basin into cold water,
and skim off' the fat, which will rise quickly. Then put
the gravy back in a stewpan, add 1 teaspoonful of flour
(mixed to a smooth paste with water) to thicken, and boil
it up. Put the chops back into the stewing-pot or pan,
pour the gravy over, place the pot back into the saucepan,
and simmer for ten minutes longer, when it will be ready
to serve.
(2) The meat of the chops may be minced if preferred,
and put into a saucepan with some beef stock previously
warmed and seasoned with vegetables, and put at the side
of the fire where it may simmer gently for a-quarter-of-an-
hour.
Stewed Mutton Chops with Tomatoes.— Take some lean
chops, broil them before the fire, and put them into a
stewpan ; cover the pan with the lid, put it on the fire,
and let the chops simmer for a-quarter-of-an-liour, then
take them out, put them on a dish, spread butter over,
and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Cover each
one with tomatoes peeled, chopped finely, and seasoned
with butter, sugar, salt, and pepper.
Stewed Mutton Cutlets. — (1) Take eight or ten cutlets from
the best end of a neck of Mutton, trim off all the fat,
leaving l£in. of bone bare at the end of each, or if the
cutlets are very small lin. will do. Put them in a fry-
ing-pan, slice over them one carrot, one turnip, one onion,
and a small piece of celery. Shake over them 1 teaspoon-
ful of salt and 1 saltspoonful of pepper, pour over
them 1 teacupful of stock, and put the pan over a slow
fire. Let the cutlets cook in this for twenty minutes,
turning them occasionally so that they may be done evenly.
While they are cooking, rub through a sieve lib. of cold
mashed potatoes, put them into a saucepan, drop the yolks
of two eggs into them, and stir over the fire till dry.
When the cutlets are ready, divide this potato paste into
as many equal portions as there are cutlets. Flatten
each portion on a paste-board with a knife to the thickness
of about lin. and roll the cutlets in them, using the piece
of bone left bare as a handle. When they are all done,
lay them on a lightly-greased baking-tin, brush over with
a little milk or beaten egg, and brown them quickly in
a hot oven. While they are in the oven, stir into the pan
they were cooked in loz. of butter and |oz. of flour, add
to tliis by degrees teacupfuls of cold water, and stir
Fig. 1239. Stewed Mutton Cutlets.
till it boils, then add 6 drops of caramel, 1 dessert-spoonful
of ketchup, and 1 dessert spoonful of Worcestershire sauce,
and let it boil for two minutes longer. Now arrange the
cutlets in a circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with boiled
green peas (see Fig. 1239), and pour over the whole of the
strained brown sauce from the frying-pan. Serve at once.
(2) Cut rather thick cutlets off a neck of Mutton, and
lard them with thin fillets of bacon ; put them in a brais-
ing-pan with a sliced carrot, one onion, a few cloves, and
a bunch of sweet herbs ; pour in sufficient gravy to cover,
and stew them gently until quite tender. When cooked,
take the cutlets out, strain and skim the gravy, and boil
it until somewhat reduced. When cold, trim the cutlets
neatly, put them in the reduced gravy, and heat them
gradually. Cut a block of bread the shape of a pyramid,
and fry it a pale golden brown in butter. Partially boil
some new carrots and turnips, then cut them into small
pieces ; put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter,
and toss them over the fire for a few minutes. Place the
block of bread in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the
cutlets round it, garnish with the carrots and turnips,
pour the gravy round, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
1002
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
(3) Trim some lean loin of Mutton cutlets to a neat
shape, put them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and
fry them until lightly browned, turning to do both sides
equally. Drain the cutlets, and put them in a stewpan
with a few sliced pickled cucumbers and sufficient rich
broth or gravy to cover ; season to taste with salt and
pepper and any other kind of seasoning liked, and stew
them very gently at the side of the lire for nearly two
hours. At the end of that time, if the cutlets are suffi-
ciently tender, turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(4) Trim the cutlets to a nice shape, leaving very little
fat on them, dust over with salt and pepper, and fry them
in butter until just beginning to brown. Drain the cutlets,
put them in a stewpan with an equal quantity of carrots,
turnips, and potatoes that have been peeled and cut into
small equal-sized pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, about
2 breakfast-cupfuls of clear stoek, entirely freed from fat,
ami h teacupful of French tomato sauce. Let the stew
simmer gently at the edge of the lire until the meat is
tender, then remove the bunch of sweet herbs, and put in
a small piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, and loz.
of butter that has been worked up with 1 table-spoonful
of flour. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and let it
stew a few minutes longer. Turn the stew on to a hot
dish, garnish with sippets of toast, or small crofttons of
fried bread, and serve. It is better to put in the turnips
and potatoes after the meat has stewed a little, as they do
not require so much cooking.
(5) Make a forcemeat of 3oz. each of veal and suet
chopped very fine, an onion peeled and chopped fine, 2oz.
of sifted breadcrumbs, a small quantity of thyme, sweet
marjoram, and grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, and the beaten yolks of
two eggs. Take some nicely-trimmed cutlets of loin of
Mutton, cover them thickly with the forcemeat, wrap
each one in a buttered piece of writing-paper, lay them
in a baking-tin, and bake. Or they may be stewed in
a little gravy till they begin to get tender, then place each
cutlet separately in a sheet of buttered writing-paper,
fold the edges of the paper upwards, and twist the corners.
Finish cooking on a hot gridiron over a clear fire. Serve
the cutlets very hot in the papers they were cooked in.
(6) Take some cutlets from a neck of Mutton, trim of!
some of the fat, and put them in a saute-pan with 2oz. of
butter and cover with one onion cut in slices; dust over
with pepper and salt, and pour 1 breakfast-cupful of stock,
2 table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and the same of vinegar over
them. Place the pan on a moderate fire and stew gently
for thirty minutes ; take them out, glaze, strain the liquor,
and reduce it. Put the cutlets on a dish, garnish with
mashed potatoes, and put some finely-chopped mushrooms
in the centre, pour the sauce round, and serve.
(7) Cut some cutlets 4in. long from a neck of Mutton,
leaving two bones in each cutlet ; saw off the chine-bone,
and remove one rib-bone. Lard through the lean part of
the cutlet with seasoned strips of fat bacon and tongue,
each lardoon being about lin. long and Jin. thick. Put the
cutlets in a stewpan, cover with mirepoix and veal stock, and
let them simmer gently at the side of the fire ; when the
cutlets are done, take them out of the stock, and press them
between two plates till they are cold ; in the meantime
skim the fat off the gravy and strain and reduce it. Put
the cold cutlets in the reduced stock till hot, then arrange
the cutlets in a circle round a croustade, and fill this with
an onion puree made in the following manner: Cook some
onions, previously peeled, in water, drain them, put them
in a stewpan, cover with chicken consomnffi, boil gently
for a few minutes, reduce with an equal quantity of
bechamel sauce, and strain and finish with butter and
chicken glaze. Pour the gravy in which the cutlets were
cooked over them, and serve while hot.
(8) Cut off the cutlets from a neck of Mutton, trim them
nicely, taking off some of the Hat bone at the end, put
them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry till
nicely browned. Put loz. of butter in a saucepan with
1 table spoonful of Hour, and stir it over the fire
till nicely browned, then pour in gradually some well-
jseasoned veal gravy, and continue stirring it over the fire
Mutton — continued.
till boiling. Put the cutlets in the sauce with some
trimmings of turnips, a bunch of green onions, parsley, and
sweet herbs, and let them boil gently at the side of the
fire till nearly done. Cut some turnips into shapes, not
too small, and put them in a stewpan ; take the chops out
of the sauce and put them in with the turnips. Strain
the cooking-liquor over the cutlets and turnips, add a
small piece of sugar, and stew them gently till tender, and
keep the sauce well skimmed. When cooked, turn the
cutlets and turnips on to a hot dish, pour the sauce over
them, garnish with fried bread or sippets of toast, and
serve.
Stewed Mutton with Garlic (Turkish). — Cut some lean
Mutton into rather small pieces, put a few peeled cloves of
garlic at the bottom of a stewpan, then sprinkle in some
salt, pepper, and cumin ; on that lay a few of the pieces
of meat, then more garlic and seasoning, and so on until
all is used. Cut two onions into thin slices, fry them in
butter till browned, and lay them on the meat. Moisten with
f pint of water, § breakfast-cupful of wine vinegar,
put the lid on the pan, and keep it at the side of the
fire till the meat is tender. If it boils fast the meat
will be tough. When cooked turn the stew on to a hot
dish and serve.
Stewed Mutton with Haricot Beans. — Cut a shoulder or
breast of (Mutton in small pieces, put them into a stewpan
with a little butter, cook until they brown a little, and
add gradually some Mutton broth, stirring frequently. Put
in the required quantity of haricots, and season with a
bay -leaf, a little each of thyme, salt, and pepper, and a
very small quantity of garlic. Place the pan at the side
of the fire and simmer gently for about four horn's. Turn
it out on a dish when done, and serve hot.
Stewed Mutton with Okra Gumbos. — (1) Cut the Mutton
into small pieces and put them in a deep frying-pan with
loz. of butter, teacupful of water, and a small quantity
of salt. When boiling, stir the meat until the moisture
has somewhat reduced, but without browning it. Peel
and trim several young okras ; lay the pieces of meat in a
round, rather deep baking-tin ; peel and cut into slices four
onions, fry them till brown in butter, then lay them, with
the okras, on the top of the meat. Pour over H pints of clear
Mutton broth, the juice of two lemons, and the gravy out
of the frying-pan ; dust over a small quantity of salt and
pepper, and put it in a hot oven. When cooked, and the
okras are well browned, turn the stew carefully over on to
a hot dish, dust powdered cinnamon over, garnish with
crohtons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve while
very hot.
(2) Wash the Mutton and cut it into pieces about the
size of walnuts ; put them in a saucepan with a lump of
salt, cover with water, and place them over the fire.
When boiling, move the saucepan to the side of the fire,
skim the liquor, and let it simmer till the meat is three-
parts done. Peel a few onions, cut them into thin slices,
put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and
fry till beginning to brown. Peel the stalky parts and cut
off the ends of several okras. Tinned okras will do nicely.
Put a layer of the pieces of meat in a stewpan, then a layer
of onions, next a layer of okras, and so on until all are
used; pour in the liquor in which the meat was boiled,
adding more broth if required, and a lump of salt. When
boiling, move the stewpan to the side of the fire and let
the contents simmer gently until tender and the liquor has
reduced to a thick consistency. Squeeze the juice of two
lemons into the stew, boil it for five minutes longer, then
turn it on to a hot dish ; dust pepper and powdered cin-
namon over, garnish with sippets of toast or crotttons of
fried bread, and serve while very hot.
Stewed Mutton with Parsley (Turkish).— Cut somcr
Mutton into small pieces of an equal size, put them in a
saucepan with water to cover and a lump of salt, and boil
gently for thirty minutes. Cut two or three onions into
thin slices and fry them in butter till browned, then drain,
and put them in with the meat ; boil for a short time
longer, then put in a few pieces of picked and washed
parsley, and continue boiling till the meat is cooked. Beat
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
1003
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
the yolks of four eggs with the juice of two lemons, put
them in a small saucepan, and stir over the hre till thick
without letting them boil, or they will curdle. "VV hen the
meat is tender, turn the stew on to a hot dish, pour the
sauce over it, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of
bread fried brown in butter, and serve.
Stewed Mutton with Peas. — Wash a lettuce nicely, cut
the heart and best leaves in pieces, and put them in a
stewpan with an onion peeled and sliced ; shell § peck of
green peas not too young and put them also into the stew-
pan together with the Mutton cut in pieces. Add \ pint
of stock in which a turnip has been boiled, and simmer
very gently for three hours; thicken with Hour and butter,
add a little Worcestershire sauce, and serve hot. If the
Mutton has been cooked before it should not lie put into
the stewpan till the peas have been stewing for an-hour-
and-a half.
Stewed Mutton in Persian Style. — Chop the flesh of
a leg of Mutton into equal-sized pieces, sprinkle over salt
and pepper, put them in a basin or pan, cover with onions
cut in slices and the juice of three or four lemons, and
let them soak for a couple of hours. Take them out,
drain, put them into a saucepan with some fat, and cook
briskly for a few minutes over a clear fire, to set the flesh.
Pour in sufficient broth to about three-parts the height of
the meat, cover the pan, put it over a slow fire with hot ashes
on the lid, and let it cook slowly until done. Put the meat
on a dish, skim off the fat from the liquor, add 1 handful
of dried and shred sweet almonds, and two or three dozen
prunes, boiled and drained, and warm it up without boil-
ing. Put the prunes and almonds round the meat, thicken
the liquor with a little syrup of stewed raisins, add the
juice of two or three lemons, pour it over the meat, and
serve. See Fig. 1240.
Stewed Mutton with. Potatoes. — Exactly the same as for
Stewed Mutton a la Fermiere, replacing the garnish-
ing with 1 pint of small potatoes cut in quarters, trimming
the edges a little, also six small onions. Let this cook for
thirty minutes, and then serve.
Stewed Mutton with Rice. — Trim off all the fat from the
short bones of a neck of Mutton and put them in a stew-
pan with 4oz. of rice ; fry in butter a few sliced onions,
two carrots and turnips, and a stick or two of celery cut
into short lengths ; when they are nicely browned, put
them in the stewpan with the Mutton, dredge over flour,
salt, and pepper, moisten with sufficient cold brown stock
to just cover, leave the stewpan over the fire until the
contents boil, then move it to the side and let them
simmer gently until very tender, and the rice has absorbed
nearly all the moisture. When cooked, turn the Mutton
on to a hot dish, garnish with small carrots and turnips
that have been stewed separately in brown stock and
glazed, and serve very hot.
Stewed Mutton Steak. — Cut off two steaks from a leg of
Mutton, and put them into a frying-pan to brown slightly.
Place them in a saucepan, and add a few turnips and
carrots cut in slices, a head of celery chopped small, some
green peas, and a few sprigs of parsley and sorrel. Pour
over 1 gill of Mutton broth and 4 wineglassful of red wine.
Cover the pan closely and put it at the side of the fire
where the contents will simmer gently, tossing the pan
frequently to prevent any of the vegetables sticking to the
bottom. When done, turn the meat on to a dish, put the
vegetables round, and serve.
Mutton — continued.
Stewed Mutton with Tomatoes. — Trim some Mutton, re-
moving most of the fat and the skin, and cut it into small
equal-sized pieces ; wash and dry them, put them in a
frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry till nicely
browned ; take them out, and fry in the same pan, adding
more butter if required, two or three sliced onions. When
the onions are browned, drain, and put them with the
meat into a stewpan, adding green tomatoes cut into
quarters. Put 31b. or 41b. of ripe tomatoes in a basin and
press them to extract the juice, which pass through a line
hair sieve ; pour the juice over the meat, &c., with sufficient
water to cover, and stew them at the side of the fire.
When the meat is tender and the liquor reduced till thick,
pile the meat in the centre of a hot dish, pour the gravy
round, and serve while very hot.
Stewed Mutton with Vegetable Marrows a la Turque.—
(1) Separate the meat and bones from 41b. of loin of Mutton,
and cut the meat into small pieces. Peel six onions, cut
them into thin slices, and put them with the meat ; dust
over salt and pepper, and rub them together. Peel four
vegetable marrows, cut them into slices, and scoop out the
seeds. Put the bones of the Mutton in a saucepan, cover
with slices of vegetable marrow, then a layer of the meat
and onions, next a layer of the slices of vegetable marrow,
and so on until all are used. Pour in sufficient water to
cover, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, add a lump of
salt, and let them simmer at the side of the lire till
tender. Peel four cloves of garlic, put them in a mortar,
pound them very fine, then mix them together with
3 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar with the stew. Boil it
gently for ten minutes longer, then turn it, on to a hot dish,
dredge 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped mint over,
and serve.
(2) Trim off the skin and fat of 21b. of Muttcn, and cut
the lean into small equal-sized pieces, put them in a
saucepan with a lump of salt and water to cover, and
simmer gently until the meat is nearly tender, removing
the scum as it rises to the top. Peel four onions, cut
them into slices, put them in a frying-pan with a
lump of butter, and fry till browned. Peel the requisite
quantity of vegetable marrows, cut them into halves, scoop
out the seeds, then cut them into slices fin. thick ; drain
the pieces of meat, lay some of them at the bottom of a
saucepan, then put in a layer of the sliced marrows and
onions, next meat, and so on until all are used. Season
with salt, and pour in the water in which the Mutton
was first stewed ; a small quantity of broth can be added
if there is not enough of the liquor. When boiling move
the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the contents
simmer gently until the vegetable marrow is tender.
Squeeze the juice of two lemons into the stew, and add
2 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped mint, boil it for two
minutes longer, then turn it on to a hot dish, dust some
powdered cinnamon over it, and serve.
Stewed Neck of Mutton. -(1) Trim off the fat from a neck
of Mutton weighing about 5lb. and put the neck into a
saucepan with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of water and a little
salt and pepper, and simmer gently for twenty minutes.
Put the meat on a dish, skim the fat from the broth, add
a little cayenne and chopped parsley, boil for twenty
minutes longer, and thicken with a little butter rolled in
flour ; pour it over the meat, and serve.
(2) Cut off a little of the fat from a neck of Mutton,
and chop it up into well-shaped cutlets. Put them into a
saucepan with a little salt and pepper, cover with a layer
of green peas and onions cut in slices, then put another
layer of meat, cover again with green peas and onions,
and add a few slices of cucumber. Pour in 1 pint of
water, put the pan over the fire, and cook the meat gently
until done. If the liquor evaporates, add a little more
water. Put the meat, &c., on a dish, skim off the fat from
the gravy, pour it over, and serve. The cucumbers only
require a little cooking, therefore they should be taken out
as soon as done, and returned to the pan just before
serving the meat.
Stewed Neck of Mutton a la Duchesse.— Select a whole neck
of Mutton with the scrag end attached weighing about 31b.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£•<:., referred to, see under their special heads.
1004
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
Wash it well, sprinkle with flour, put it into a frying-pan,
and fry until well browned. Put it into a saucepan with
sufficient stock to cover, and add a carrot, two turnips,
and six small onions. Put the pot on the side of the fire,
cover closely, and simmer the contents gently for an-hour-
and-a-half, or until the vegetables are thoroughly done.
Take out the vegetables, put them on a dish to keep warm,
and continue to cook the Mutton until done, which will take
from four to five hours altogether, and when done, take it
out of the pan, and keep it hot. Put the pan with the
gravy on one side to cool, remove the fat, and then reduce
it quickly to about 1 pint ; thicken with 1 table-spoonful of
flour mixed smooth with 2 table-spoonfuls of stock. Put
in the meat again and cook slowly for thirty minutes. Chop
up the vegetables, put them into a saucepan with a little
butter, toss over the fire until they are quite hot, and
arrange on a dish in small piles round the Mutton. Other
cooked vegetables may also be used as a garnish if desired.
Stewed Rolled Loin of Mutton. — Remove all the bones
from a loin of Mutton that has hung until tender, and
sprinkle with a little pepper, powdered allspice, cloves,
and grated nutmeg, and let it remain for twenty-four
hours. Beat with a cutlet-bat to flatten it, cover with
hare stuffing, roll it round tightly, and tie it. Put it in a
baking-dish in a slow oven, and when half done, take it
out, and let it get cold. Skim off the fat from the gravy,
put it into a saucepan, flour the meat well, put it in, and
stew gently over a moderate fire until almost done. Pour
in 1 wineglassful of port wine, 1 table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup, and add a little lemon pickle and an
anchovy. Stew for thirty minutes longer, put it on a dish,
strain the gravy, and pour it over. Serve with jelly sauce
in a boat.
Stewed Shoulder of Mutton. — (1) Put a boned shoulder of
Mutton into a saucepan with a little broth, parsley, cloves,
bay-leaf, a small clove of garlic, a few carrots, turnips,
and onions, with salt and pepper to taste, and stew gently
until thoroughly cooked. Take it out, drain well, put it
on a dish, pour over a little thick gravy, and sprinkle it
with breadcrumbs. Mix the yolks of three eggs in a basin
with a little oiled butter, spread it over the Mutton, and
then cover again with breadcrumbs. Put it into a quick
oven to brown, basting frequently with hot butter, take it
out, put it on a dish, and serve with a little of the gravy
strained and reduced.
(2) Trim off all the skin and superfluous fat of a shoulder
of Mutton, beat the shoulder flat and rub it with salt
and pepper. Put it in a stewpan with 1 pint of water and
stew over a slow fire until the moisture has reduced, then
brown the meat well over a brisk fire. Peel two cucumbers,
cut them into small pieces, and remove all the seeds ; peel
and finely mince an onion. Drain the fat off the meat,
dredge it over with flour, and pour in a little more than
\ pint of water. Put the cucumbers and onions in
Fig. 1241. Stewed Shoulder of Mutton.
with the meat and boil them gently until tender. Then
mix 1 wineglassful of vinegar with the meat and boil
for a few minutes longer. Put the meat on a hot dish,
garnish it with the pieces of cucumbers (see Fig. 1241), pour
the gravy over, and serve.
(3) Put a shoulder of Mutton into a saucepan with a
little water and parboil it. Take out, and put it into
another saucepan with 2qts. of veal gravy, Jib. of rice, l
teaspoonful of mushroom powder, and a blade of ground
mace. Put the pan over a clear fire and stew the contents
gently for an hour, when the rice should lie thoroughly done.
Take out the Mutton and put it in a warm place to keep
Mutton— continued.
hot ; pour 1 breakfast-cupful of cream into the saucepan with
the rice, and add a small piece of butter rolled in flour.
Mix thoroughly, toss the pan over the fire, and cook the
rice gently for eight minutes or so. Put the Mutton on
a dish and serve with the gravy and rice poured over it.
(4) STUFFED. — Remove the bone from a shoulder of Mutton,
taking care not to break the skin. Prepare a forcemeat
with Jib. each of ham, pork, and bacon. Stuff the shoulder
with it, dust it over witli salt and pepper, and sew it up
in a round shape. Put it into a gallon saucepan with 2oz.
of butter, and cook quickly over a brisk fire for fifteen
minutes, turning so as to cook both sides. Pour in 1 teacup-
ful of brandy and lqt. of water, boil up quickly, skim off
the fat, and add one onion stuck with two cloves, a small
carrot, a faggot of herbs, and salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer gently for an-hour-and-a-lialf, baste frequently, cover
the pan, put some hot ashes on the top, and let it braise for
thirty minutes. Take out the meat, put it on a dish,
remove the string, and pour over the liquor which has been
strained and reduced to half its original bulk. Garnish the
dish with glazed turnips or onions, and serve.
Stump Pie. — Cut the meat off a leg of Mutton and chop it
finely. Mince ljlb. of beef-suet and mix it with the Mutton ;
add also 1 table-spoonful each of finely-minced thyme and
parsley, Jib. of sugar, a small quantity of mace and cloves,
and salt and pepper to taste. Bind the mixture with six
eggs ; butter a pie-dish, line it with a good paste, and put
in the mixture ; place a layer of currants, raisins, and dates
on the top, cover with a flat of the paste, trim off neatly
round the edges, and moisten and press them together.
Bake the pie in a good oven ; when cooked lift off the cover,
pour in 1 teacupful of white wine vinegar, strew brown
sugar over the top, and serve.
Timbale of Mutton. — Put some macaroni into a stewpan
with a small lump of butter and milk and water to cover,
and boil for a few minutes; then strain off the liquid.
Pour over the macaroni a small quantity of clear stock,
and stew gently until tender. Chop some cold Mutton,
also one or two rashers of bacon, put them in the stewpan
with the macaroni, add the grated peel of half a lemon,
and season highly. Grate in loz. of cheese, and toss the
whole over the fire until hot. Turn the mixture on to a
plate and let it cool. Butter a mould, strew grated bread-
crumb in it, and line it with puff paste. When the
mixture is quite cold, put it in the mould, cover with
paste, trimming off neatly round the edges ; press them
together, and bake the timbale in a rather slow oven.
When cooked, turn it out of the mould on to a dish, cut
off the top, and glaze the timbale. Arrange in the opening
left by the removal of the top some freshly-prepared and
chopped salad; garnish round the dish with parsley, slices
of cucumber, and red radishes, and serve very cold.
Tuginar (Turkish).- Cut about lib. of Mutton into small
pieces ; melt Jib. of butter in a stewpan, put in the meat,
and fry until lightly browned, when pour in H pints of
water and simmer gently for fifteen minutes with the lid
on the pan. Season the meat to taste, put in a chopped
onion and eight or nine artichoke-bottoms cut in quarters,
and simmer gently until the whole is cooked ; then turn
the ragoftt on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast
or croft tons of bread fried brown in butter, and serve.
Tinned Mutton.— The introduction of Mutton pre-
served in tins ( see Australian Meat) appears to. be
subject to considerable prejudice. This is certainly
aggravated by those using this meat forgetting to observe
that it is cooked before tinning, and therefore merely
requires to be warmed up, or rechauffe, as a French cook
would call it. The following receipts are worth trying :
Baked Tinned Mutton.— (1) Take the meat out of a tin of
Mutton, remove all the fat and gravy, and season well
with finely-powdered dried basil and marjoram, giated
nutmeg, salt, and a small quantity of cayenne peppei.
Bind round carefully with broad tape, to keep it together,
lay it on a baking-dish, and put it in the oven, basting
occasionally with warmed butter. W hen the meat is hot
through, remove the bindings, and place it on a hot dish.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
1005
Mutton — continued.
Mix with any gravy that may have run into the baking-
dish 1 wineglassful of port wine, 1 table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup, and a small quantity of Harvey sauce ;
dust in a very small quantity of cayenne pepper, then
pour it over the meat, and serve.
(2) Open a tin of Mutton, turn out the contents, and
remove all the fat and gravy. Bind the meat round with
tape to prevent it falling to pieces, and dust it well with
curry powder and dried sage. Peel and slice eight or ten
parboiled potatoes, lay them at the bottom of a baking-dish,
strew finely-chopped sage and onions over them, and put
the meat on the top, flavouring with a few drops of mush-
room ketchup. Bake it in a moderate oven, and baste it
occasionally with some of the fat melted that was scraped
off. When cooked, remove the bindings from the meat, place
it on a hot dish, arrange the potatoes round it, pour over
a small quantity of rich gravy, and serve.
Baked Tinned Mutton in Batter.— Beat up the yolk of
an egg in 1 pint of milk, and stir in smoothly sufficient
flour to bring it to the consistency of ordinary batter,
adding 1 saltspoonful of salt. Melt a small lump of drip-
ping in a baking-dish, pour in half of the batter, lay in
slices of tinned Mutton, over them strew finely-chopped
parsley and onion, season with salt and pepper, pour in
carefully the remainder of the batter, baste it with 2 or
3 table -spoonfuls of warmed dripping, and bake in a brisk
oven. Serve the meat while very hot in the dish in which
it was cooked.
Croquettes of Tinned Mutton. — Open a tin of Mutton,
turn out the meat, scrape off all the fat and jelly, and cut
and roll the meat into cone- or pear-shaped pieces ; then
egg-and-breadcrumb them, and fry in hot lard or dripping.
To dish them lay a dish-paper or a folded napkin in the
dish, place the croquettes on it with the thick end down-
wards, stick into the top of each a tiny sprig of fried
parsley, and serve immediately.
Pried Cannelons of Tinned Mutton. — Open a tin of
Mutton, turn out the meat, and scrape off all the fat and
jelly. Lay on the paste-board 2 handfuls of flour, break
in two eggs, add the yolk of another, about loz. of butter,
J saltspoonful of salt, and 2 teaspoonfuls of milk ; mix to
a paste, and work it out as thin as possible with the
hands. Cut and roll the meat into lengths about 3in. long,
like thin sausages, enclose these pieces in the paste, dip
them in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry in
hot lard or dripping. Serve with fried parsley.
Pried Tinned Mutton with Onion Sauce.— Cut some
Australian Tinned Mutton into slices, trim them to a
nice shape, dip them in beaten egg, and then in plenty of
finely-grated breadcrumb seasoned with salt and pepper.
Put a large lump of lard in a flat stewpan over the fire,
and when it boils put in the Mutton and fry it until
nicely browned. When ready, drain the pieces of meat,
arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour a thick onion
sauce in the centre, and serve.
Minced Tinned Mutton. — (1) Mince lib. of Australian
Tinned Mutton and season it with a small quantity each
of chopped parsley, drives, and thyme, and salt and pepper
to taste. Put the mince into a stewpan with about R
breakfast cupfuls of rich gravy, and simmer gently at the
edge of the fire. Afterwards pour the mince into a gratin-
dish, strew a thick layer of grated breadcrumbs over the
top, and baste with a few table-spoonfuls of warmed butter.
Brown either under a salamander or in the oven, and serve
in the dish in which it was cooked.
(2) Free the contents of a tin of Mutton from all fat and
jelly, and chop it very finely ; peel and slice an onion, put
it in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry it a golden
brown. Dredge a small quantity of flour over the onion,
add some of the jelly from the meat and 1 or 2 table spoonfuls
of finely-chopped parsley, season to taste with salt, pepper,
and spices, and stir the whole over the fire until very hot,
then move the stewpan to the side, put in the minced meat,
and let it simmer gently for a few minutes. Peel and slice
the required quantity of potatoes ; put a large lump of
lard or clarified fat in a flat stewpan, place it over the
Mutton — continued.
fire, and when blue smoke rises put in the slices of potatoes
and fry them a golden brown. Turn the mince into the
middle of a hot dish, garnish with the fried potatoes and
some neat sprigs of fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Wash 1 teacupful of rice, put it in a stewpan with
sufficient cold water to cook it, and boil to a pulp ; finely
chop about lib. of Australian Mutton, mix it with the
rice, add 1 teacupful of gravy that has been strongly
flavoured with onion, and stir over the fire with a wooden
spoon until the meat is thoroughly hot. Partially boil, in
separate saucepans, a few carrots, turnips, and onions, then
drain them, cut the turnips into small squares, slice the
carrots and onions, and fry all in butter until browned.
Turn the meat and rice on to a hot dish, garnish with the
vegetables, and serve.
Portugal Stew. — Peel two or three large Portugal onions,
cut them into thin slices, put them into a frying-pan with
a lump of butter, and fry until nicely browned. Drain
the onions, put them into a stewpan with R breakfast-
cupfuls of clear gravy, and boil slowly for lialf-an-hour.
Finely chop 21b. of Australian Mutton, season it with salt
and pepper, and mix it in with the onions. Knead h <>'/..
of butter together with | table-spoonful of cornflour, put
it into the stew, add a small quantity of burnt-sugar
colouring, and stir it over the fire until thickened. When
ready, turn the stew on to a hot dish, garnish it with
sippets of toast or small crofttons of bread fried a delicate
brown in butter, and serve.
Rissoles of Tinned Mutton. — Finely chop some Tinned
Mutton and mix with it half its quantity of finely-grated
breadcrumb, season to taste with chopped parsley, lemon-
peel, sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and bind with beaten
egg. Divide it into small portions, and with floured hands
roll them into balls. Melt a lump of butter or lard in a
frying-pan, put in the balls, and fry them until nicely
browned. Drain for a few minutes on a sheet of paper, then
arrange them on a dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish them
with fried parsley, and serve.
Soup made with Tinned Mutton. — Empty the contents
of a 4lb. tin of Australian Mutton on to a rather fine hair
sieve, and pour lqt. of boiling water over it ; prepare and
cut into small pieces the required quantity of carrots,
turnips, onions, and celery, put them in a frying-pan
with some butter, and toss them about over the fire until
tender. Turn the liquor that was poured over the meat
into a stewpan, put in the vegetables, season to taste with
salt and pepper and a small quantity of Worcestershire
or Harvey sauce, and simmer gently for ten minutes. Pour
the soup into a soup-tureen, and serve very hot with a
plate of sippets of toast or crodtons of fried bread.
Stewed Tinned Mutton with Celery.— Cut lib. or 21b.
of Tinned Australian Mutton into slices, dip them in
beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and leave them for an hour.
Wash two or three large white heads of celery and cut
them into pieces about 3in. long. Put them in a stewpan with
loz. of butter and milk to cover, and boil gently. When
the celery is tender, mix in with it 1 scant table-spoonful
of cornflour that has been smoothly mixed with a small
quantity of cold milk, season to taste with salt, pepper,
and grated nutmeg, and stir it over the fire until thickened,
then move it to the side. Dip the slices of Mutton
again in beaten egg and breadcrumbs ; put a large lump of
lard or clarified fat into a flat stewpan, place it over the
fire, and when boiling put in the Mutton and fry until
nicely browned. Drain the slices, arrange them in a
circle on a hot dish, pile the celery in the centre, pour
over the sauce from the celery, and serve.
Tinned-Mutton Cakes. — (1) Take the meat out of a tin of
Mutton and free it as much as possible from fat and jelly,
mix with it boned and finely-chopped anchovies, and
season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the mixture
into small equal-sized cakes, and roll them in flour ; put
a lump of clarified fat or butter into a frying-pan, place
it over the fire, and when very hot put in the cakes,
and fry them until nicely browned all over. Place the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads.
1006
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Mutton — continued.
cakes on a piece of paper in front of the fire to drain, then
arrange them on a hot dish over which has been spread
a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with
watercress or parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of
clear brown gravy.
(2) Prepare the Mutton mixture as described for No. 1,
and shape it into flat cakes the size of Mutton cutlets;
wrap these in heart-shaped pieces of well-floured paper, turn-
ing the edges and twisting them together. Broil the cakes
over a grill, and when the paper browns remove them and
Fig. 1242. Tinned-Mutton Cakes.
lay them round on a hot metal dish with a sauceboatful
of Tartar sauce in the centre. Garnish with fried parsley.
See Fig. 1242.
Tinned-Mutton Pie. — (1) Put \ teacupful of the best Scotch
oatmeal in a saucepan with It pints of water and boil it
until reduced to a jelly, then move it from the fire and
leave until cold. Peel and partially boil a large onion,
then chop it small. Open a tin of Australian Mutton and
cut the meat into slices ; spread a layer of the oatmeal
over the bottom of a pie-dish, over that place a layer of
the meat, and strew on it some of the chopped onion and
minced parsley and sage, using only a small quantity of
this latter ingredient ; season to taste with salt and pepper,
and cover with another layer of oatmeal. Fill the dish
with alternate layers of the above ingredients, seasoning
as before, and making the last layer of oatmeal. Dredge
a small quantity of flour over the top of the pie, and
bake it for an-hour-and-a-lialf in a moderate oven. Serve
the pie while hot.
(2) Cut the required quantity of Tinned Mutton into
thin slices, and half that quantity of bacon ; put them in
alternate layers in a pie-dish, strewing over each layer
some finely-minced boiled onion, apple, and a moderate
quantity of chopped sage. Season to taste with salt and
pepper, and moisten with a few table-spoonfuls of rich
gravy. Butter the edges of the pie-dish, lay a strip of
paste round, wet it, and cover with a flat of paste ; trim
it off evenly round the edges, press them together, and
bake the pie in a moderate oven. When cooked, it may
be served either hot or cold.
(3) Finely mince some Australian Tinned Mutton, and
mix with it a quarter of its bulk of grated breadcrumb;
season to taste with salt, pepper, a moderate quantity
each of chopped parsley, marjoram, and lemon-thyme, and
moisten, without making it too liquid, with beaten eggs
and milk. Butter a pie-dish, turn the mixture into it,
strew grated breadcrumb thickly over the top, put a few
small lumps of butter about, and bake for half-an-hour in
a moderate oven. When nicely browned stand the pie-
dish on a flat one, and serve with a sauceboatful of clear
brown gravy.
Tinned-Mutton-and-Fotato Pie. — Peel and boil in salted
water 2lb. or 31b. of potatoes, and when cooked, drain and
mash them smoothly with 2oz. or 3oz. of butter, and season
with salt. Procure a tin of Mutton, scrape off all the jelly,
which put into a small stewpan, mix with it an equal
Mutton — continued.
quantity of clear broth, season with salt and pepper and
a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and put it over the
fire to boil. Chop the meat coarsely. Spread half of the
mashed potatoes on the bottom of a dish that will bear
the heat of the oven, as the pie will have to be served on
the same dish ; over the potatoes put the meat, then pour
in the gravy, and cover all with the remainder of the
potatoes. Place the dish in a moderate oven for about
twenty minutes, then take it out, brown the top of the
potatoes under a salamander, and serve.
Tinned-Mutton Pudding.— (1) Finely mince about lib. of
Australian Tinned Mutton, mix with it a quarter of its
quantity of minced bacon and two finely-chopped shallots,
and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chop 41b. of
beef-suet, mix it with 111), of flour, add 1 heaped teaspoon-
ful of baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and stir in suffi-
cient water to make it into a paste. When ready, lay the
paste on a floured table, roll it out, spread over the mince,
roll it up into a long roll, moisten the ends, and press
them firmly together to prevent the mince coming out.
Rinse a stout pudding-cloth in hot water, wring it, flour
well, lay the pudding on it, roll it up, and tie at each
end. Put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and
boil for two hours. When cooked, turn it carefully out of
the doth on to a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful
of rich gravy.
(2) Cut about lib. or 141b. of Australian Tinned Mutton
into small rather thick squares, and cut Jib. of beef kidney
into slices. Butter a pudding-basin, line it with a good
suet crust, and fill it with alternate layers of Mutton and
kidney, seasoning each layer moderately with salt and pepper.
Pour in a few drops of mushroom ketchup, and cover the
pudding with a round of paste, moistening and pinching the
edges together. Tie a floured pudding-cloth over the top,
put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil
for two-liours-and-a-half, pouring in more water as it boils
away to keep the pudding well covered. When cooked,
turn it out of the basin on to a hot dish, and serve.
Tinned-Mutton Sandwiches. — Take the meat out of a tin
of Mutton, remove all the fat and jelly, and cut the meat
into small square pieces. Put 2oz. of butter into a stew-
pan, melt it, add two small finely-chopped onions, and fry
them until browned, then dredge in 1 table-spoonful of
flour, and stir in about 1 teacupful of gravy. Season with
4 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, grated
nutmeg, and any other kind of spices liked, and let it
simmer gently at the side of the fire until the liquor has
thickly reduced, then put in the meat. Stir the mixture
well, and leave it at the side of the fire. Cut off some
thin slices of bread from the bottom part of a household
loaf, and fry them in dripping until of a golden brown.
Drain the slices, spread a layer of the meat mixture over
half of them, and cover with the remaining slices. Cut
the sandwiches into halves, quarters, or strips, whichever
may be preferred, and arrange them on a hot dish over
which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve while very
hot. The meat mixture should be reduced almost to a stiff
paste, or it will not keep in between the bread.
Tinned-Mutton Vinaigrette. — Cut the required quantity
of Australian Mutton into thin slices, and lay them on a
dish ; stir oil and vinegar together, the former predominat-
ing ; mix with it in moderate quantities chopped celery,
parsley, and potatoes, and season to taste with salt and
pepper. Pour the sauce over the meat, garnish with slices
of cucumber, or if that is not available, slices of beetroot,
and serve.
MUZZLES. — See Ox-muzzles.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, cfcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
END OF VOLUME I.
A DINNER TABLE IN POMPADOUR STYLE.
THE
ENCYCLOPAEDIA
OF
PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Abbreviations used: Eng., English; Fr., French; Ger., German; Find., Hindoostanee ; Ital., Italian; Sp., Spanish.
Quantities and measurements are abbreviated in the usual manner: lb., pound; oz., ounce; gall., gallon,
qt., quart ; ft., foot ; in., inch.
Note. — For further information upon any subject mentioned in the following articles, refer to that name
in its alphabetical order.
NANTES SALAD.— See Salads.
NAPKINS. — See Serviettes.
NAPLES BISCUITS —See Biscuits.
NAPOLEON CAKE.— See Cakes.
NASCA. — An amber-coloured wine made in Sardinia.
It has an agreeable bouquet, and stands very high in
native estimation.
NASSAU PUDDING— See Puddings.
NASTURTIUM.— Popular names are often very
misleading, and none more so than that of Nasturtium,
or Indian cress. The watercress alone is a true Nas-
turtium, and the term Indian cress is quite a misnomer,
seeing that the plants of this kind ( Tropseolum ) are all
natives of South America, and are not of the cress
family.
Writing of the Nasturtium (see Fig. 1) as we call it,
an eminent horticulturist tells us that it is useful as well
as ornamental, both the seeds and young shoots making
capital pickles, not even second to capers. The leaves
and flowers can be used in preparing exceedingly orna-
mental salads. See Fig. 2.
The following receipts give some very good notions of
the preparations to which the garden Nasturtium, either
dwarf or climber, lends itself.
Nasturtium-Flower Vinegar.— Pick sufficient full-blown
Nasturtium-flowers to fill a quart bottle, add half a clove
of garlic and a chopped shallot, and fill up the bottle with
vinegar; leave this for two months, then rub the whole
through a very fine sieve. Season with cayenne and salt,
and bottle.
Nasturtium Salad. — Pick the required quantity of Nas-
turtium-flowers, put them in a salad-bowl, and sprinkle
over them 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped chervil and a
VOL. II.
N asturtium — continued.
small quantity of salt. Squeeze the juice of two lemons
in 3 taide-spoonfuls of salad-oil, stir it until well mixed,
Fig. 1. Nasturtium-plant (Trop.eolum majus).
then pour it over the salad ; toss it about with a wooden
spoon, then serve without delay.
B
2
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
N asturtium — continued.
Nasturtium Sauce. — (1) Add to \ pint of well-boiled
melted-butter sauce 1 dessert-spoonful of vinegar or strained
lemon-juice and some pickled Nasturtiums, gherkins, green
peas, or French beans cut to the size of capers. Let the
sauce get quite hot and serve in a tureen.
Fig. 2. Nasturtium Salad.
(2) Stir 3 table-spoonfuls of pickled Nasturtium-seeds
into 1 teacupful of drawn butter in a saucepan, and add a
little salt and pepper. Place the pan at the side of the
fire, simmer gently, and it is then ready for use.
(3) Put loz. of butter into a saucepan, melt it slightly,
and add gradually foz. of flour, giving the pan a shake
every now and then as it is added. When the flour has
lost all its taste by shaking the pan well at a little
distance from the fire, pour in gradually \ pint of boiling
gravy. Mix in 2 table-spoonfuls of Nasturtium-seeds, and
add 1 teaspoonful of the liquor from them and the same
quantity of chilli vinegar. Put the pan on the fire and stir
well until the sauce boils, when it will be ready for use.
(4) Put some freshly-gathered Nasturtium-blossoms into
a jar, and for about 1 pint of the flowers pour in lqt. of
vinegar ; add half-a-dozen shall its, f table-spoonful of
salt, and \ table-spoonful of cayenne. Cover the jar, and
leave it for seven or eight days. Next, strain oft' the
liquor, and mix with it J pint each of soy and essence
of anchovies. When well mixed, pour the sauce into small
bottles, cork them tightly, and store for use.
Pickled Nasturtium-Buds. — Gather the buds on a dry day
and leave them for three days ; then put them into a jar,
pour spiced boiling vinegar over them, and when cold tie
over the jar. They must be left for several months before
being used.
Pickled Nasturtium-Seeds. — (1) Put some Nasturtium-
seeds in a basin and pour over some strong boiling brine,
straining, boiling it again, and pouring it over fre-
quently for three weeks or so. Then put the seeds into
some clear water, changing it repeatedly in order to ex-
tract the salt. Put them into bottles, and pour over them
boiling vinegar mixed with cloves, allspice, ginger, mace,
and sugar, using h pint of these together to every gallon
of vinegar. When cold, tie down the bottles and put
them in a cool place until wanted.
(2) Select seeds that have been gathered within seven
days from the time the blossoms fell off; put Jgall. of
them into salted water, changing the water daily, and let
them remain for three days. Then drain them through a
sieve, and dry on a cloth. Put Jgall. of white-wine vinegar
into a saucepan with two shallots cut into slices, 2oz. of
salt, loz. of white peppercorns, and Joz. each of mace and
nutmeg. Boil over a clear fire for ten minutes or so, skim
well, and then let it cool. Put the seeds into jars, pour
over the liquor, cover, and tie them down ; in a few days
the pickle will be ready for use.
(3) Gather the seeds while young, as they should be
quite green, and wash them in plenty of cold water.
Drain the seeds, lay them on a dish, strew plenty of salt
over, and leave until the next day. Dry the seeds on a
cloth, and pack them in jars with plenty of horseradish,
tarragon-leaves, whole peppers, and a few cloves. Pour in
sufficient cold vinegar to cover the pickles ; cover the jars
Nasturtium — contimted.
with stout paper or parchment, and keep them in a dry
store-cupboard for use.
NAVARIN.— A French word signifying a mutton
stew, but having no apparent reason for its existence.
NEAPOLITAN CAKE.— Nee Cakes.
NEAPOLITAN CHARLOTTE. — See Charlottes.
NEAPOLITAN CREAM ICE. -Nee Cream.
NEAPOLITAN ICES. — These are made in solid
cakes, being frozen in a square box made specially for
this purpose. They may be coloured, plain, or in layers
of different colours, and may consist of any simple
fruit or cream-ice.
NEAPOLITAN PASTRY.— Nee Pastry.
NEAPOLITAN PUDDING.— Nee Puddings.
NEAPOLITAN SOUP.— Nee Soups.
NEAT’S PEET.— See Cow-heels.
NEAT’S TONGUE— Nee Ox -TONGUES.
NECK— This is the name given to that part of the
animal which intervenes between the shoulders and the
head, supporting the latter, and being therefore
proportionately muscular and ligamentous. Although not
considered a choice part for culinary purposes, it can be
utilised with good effect. See Mutton, &c.
NECTAR. — The fabled drink of the mythological
deities, substantiality having been imparted to it by
sweetening wine with honey and giving it that name.
It has various existences now, as the following receipts
will show. A cheap aerated drink is also sold under this
name.
(1) Nearly fill a pint bottle with cold filtered water,
drop in 2oz. of crushed loaf sugar and 2 scruples of
bicarbonate of potash, let them dissolve, then add 2 draclims
of citric acid in crystals ; cork immediately, shake the
bottle vigorously, and as soon as the acid is dissolved the
Nectar is fit for use, but will keep good for a time if put
in a cool place.
(2) Finely chop 21b. of stoned raisins, put them into a
pot with 41b. of loaf sugar, and pour over 2galls. of
boiling water. Leave it till cold, then - add two lemons
cut in slices ; leave it for five days, stirring daily, then
leave it for another similar period so that it will get
clear. Bottle off into small bottles, and in ten days it will
be fit to drink.
(3) Three-parts fill a pint bottle with water, and add
1 scruple of bicarbonate of potash, loz. of sugar, and
lastly 1 drachm of citric acid. Cork up the bottle, shake
it well, and when the acid is dissolved the drink will
be ready for use. It is like lemonade flavoured with
essence of pine-apple.
Nectar Cream. — Put in a sugar-boiler or lined pan 61b. of
refined sugar and 4oz. of tartaric acid; pour in 2qts. of
water and stir over the fire until warm, then add the
beaten whites of four eggs. Continue stirring until the
liquor begins to bubble, then take the boiler off immedi-
ately before it boils. When cool, strain the Nectar through
a fine sieve or piece of muslin. Put 1 teaspoonful of the
cream in a glass of cold water with a very small quantity
of bicarbonate of soda, and stir until it effervesces.
Nectar Syrup. — (1) Mix loz. each of the extracts of bitter
almonds, rose, vanilla, and lemon, and add them to lgall.
of syrup with a little cochineal for colouring; it is then
fit for use. Or the syrup may be made by mixing one-fifth
each of lemon and pine-apple syrups to three-fifths of
vanilla syrup.
(2) Put .3 Ub. of sugar into a saucepan with a very little
cream of tartar and stir over the fire until the sugar is
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
3
N ectar — continued.
all dissolved. Remove the pan from the fire and add foz.
each of the extracts of lemon, almond, rose, and vanilla,
and lastly the same quantity of tartaric acid. Put the
liquid into bottles, cork them down, and it is ready for use.
(3) Nectar syrup may be made by mixing 5 pints of
vanilla syrup with 1 pint of pine-apple syrup, and double
the quantity of raspberry or strawberry syrup. Bottle,
cork, and it is fit for use.
(4) Mix into 1 pint of syrup made from loaf sugar 2
drachms each of the extracts of rose, lemon, and vanilla,
and 1 drachm of extract of bitter almonds. Colour a
pretty pink with some vegetable colouring, bottle, cork
well, and keep in a cool place.
(5) Mix together J pint of lemon syrup, £ pint of orange
syrup, £ pint of pine-apple syrup, and 2 table-spoonfuls of
extract of vanilla. Bottle, cork well, and keep in a cool
place.
NECTARINES (Fr. Brugnons ; Ger. Psirsiche ;
Ital. Prugnole; Sp. Ciruelas). — The Nectarine (see Fig. 3)
is a smooth-skinned variety of the peach ( Persica vul-
garis). Although allied to the almond, the covering of
the stone differs entirely. Nectarines are better suited
Fig. 3. Nectarine.
for culinary purposes than peaches. The name is evi-
dently derived from nectar, probably in consequence of
the delicate flavour of the fruit. The Spanish Nec-
tarine or cocoa plum is quite distinct.
Nectarines are not so often met with in this country
as they used to be, and then only as a hot-house
production ; but as they are sufficiently plentiful in
other parts, the following receipts should be found
useful :
Candied Nectarines. -Cut the Nectarines to extract the
stones, and put the fruit in a pan with half their weight
of crashed loaf sugar and 1 gill of water to each pound of
sugar ; boil over a bright fire until the syrup is clear,
carefully removing the scum as it rises. Take out the
Nectarines, using a skimmer to do so, put them on Hat
dishes, cover them, and let them remain for a day.
Put the pan with the sugar over the fire and boil until ‘it
is thick ; then add the fruit and boil si >wly until quite
hot. Take them out again, put them on a dish, cover,
and let them remain for one day longer. Boil the
syrup again, add the fruit, and let them remain for a short
time longer. Put them out on a sieve to dry, sprinkle
them over with caster sugar, turning frequently until dry
and candied, when they will be fit for use. Candied
Nectarines will keep for some time.
Green-Nectarine Pickle. Put a thin layer of salt on a
dish, over this put a layer of green Nectarines, then salt
and more fruit, and continue in this way until as much
is used as required. Cover over with a thick coating of
salt, and let the fruit remain for four or five days. Care-
fully take out the fruit, wipe them dry, and place in
the sun for two or three days, turning frequently ; then
pack away in jars. In the meantime have ready a mixture
sufficient to cover tire fruit, composed of loz. each of white
ginger, long peppers, allspice, and cloves, ^oz. of sugar,
one shallot, and six chillies to each quart of vinegar. Let
the vinegar boil for ten or fifteen minutes, remove from
the fire, add and dissolve in it a very small quantity of
alum, which will assist to make the fruit crisp ; when cold,
Nectarines — continued.
pour this over the fruit, then cover the jars, and pack
away for future use.
Nectarine Compote. — Peel and stone some Nectarines, cut
them in halves, and put them in a saucepan with some
syrup at the small-thread degree ( see Sugar-boiling), and
Fig. 4. Nectarine Compote.
cook them until quite tender. When cold they should be
served in a compote-dish (see Fig. 4) and the syrup poured
over. A little spinach-green added to the syrup improves
the effect.
Nectarine Fritters. — Split the fruit in halves and remove
the stones ; put the fruit on a dish, strew caster sugar
over, and moisten with a few table-spoonfuls of brandy.
Let the Nectarines steep for an hour or two. Meantime
prepare a good frying-batter, put a large lump of lard or
butter into a flat stewpan, and put it on the fire. Dip
the halves of Nectarines in the batter, then put them in
the fat, and fry a bright golden brown. Drain, arrange
on a dish garnished with a fancy dish-paper, dust lightly
with caster sugar, and serve.
Nectarine Jam. — Peel the Nectarines, cut them in
halves, crack the stones, then blanch and cut the kernels
into small pieces. Put the peels and broken stones into a
saucepan with 4 pint of water for every pound of the
fruit, and boil until reduced to half its former quantity ;
then strain the liquor. Place the fruit in a preserving-
pan, and put in with it for each pound lib. of coarsely-
crashed loaf sugar. Add the liquor from the stones and
the kernels, with eight blanched and chopped bitter almonds
for each Jib. of kernels. Place the pan over a slow fire,
and stir the contents with a wooden spoon until reduced
to a stiff consistency. Turn the jam into jars, and leave
for several hours until quite cold ; then sift a small quan-
tity of caster sugar over the top of each, cover with
rounds of white paper that have been dipped in beaten
egg, tie round the jars with twine, and pack them away
for use.
Nectarine Pulp for Ices. — Cut some Nectarines in halves,
remove the stones, and take out the kernels. Blanch the
fruit, and put them in a copper pan with a little water,
well stirring with a wooden spoon until they are reduced
to a pulp. To every pound of pulp add 4oz. of crashed
loaf sugar, mix well together, put into bottles, cork and
tie them down, and place them in a deep pan with hay
between to prevent them from breaking ; fill up to about
half their height with water, and steam gently over a
moderate fire for twenty minutes. Let the jars remain
in the water until cold, take them out, wax over the
corks, and the pulp will be ready for use.
Preserved Nectarines. (1) Pare some Nectarines, cut them
in halves to remove the stones, put them into a saucepan of
boiling water, and cook gently at the side of the fire. As soon
as the fruit floats on the top take them out, and put on
a strainer to drain. Weigh them, and to every pound
add fib. of clarified sugar ; put the fruit and sugar into
a preserving-pan, boil until the syrup is nearly clear,
then put them with the syrup on one side to cool. Let
the whole remain for a day, then drain oft' the syrup, and
boil until it becomes quite thick ; add the fruit, and boil
for a short time. Repeat this once more, and lastly pour
the whole into a deep dish and let it remain for a couple
of days. Put it into pots or jars, cover them tightly,
and the preserves are ready for use.
(2) Split open the required quantity of fruit, take out
the stones, and put the fruit into clarified sugar until well
saturated. Now skim the liquor, cover with paper,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
B 2
4
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Nectarines — continued.
and leave for a day. Take out the Nectarines, add more
sugar to the syrup, boil up again, put in the fruit, and
give them a boil also ; skim well, cover again, and
leave them at the side of the fire or stove until the next
day. Take the fruit out, dust over with powdered sugar,
leave them for a day longer, then dry them in the hot
closet.
NEEDLES. — See Larding and Trussing.
NEGUS. — This well-known drink was named after
its inventor, one Colonel Negus, who lias doubtless con-
tributed in a great degree to the happiness of liis fellow
creatures by preparing an alcoholic or wine beverage
possessing a minimum of intoxicating qualities. There are
numerous receipts for its preparation, but the following
are authentic :
(1) Mix a bottle of port or sherry with twice its bulk
of hot water sweetened with Jib. of lump sugar. Flavour
this with the juice of a lemon and a grated nutmeg, and
let float therein the thin peel of a lemon. Ten drops of
essence of ambergris and 1 teaspoonful of essence of vanilla
will greatly improve the flavour.
(2) Put 2qts. of claret or Iqt. of port wine into a basin,
add 1 wineglassful of brandy, two limes cut up into thin
slices, 2 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg,
two or three cloves, a few cardamoms, and one or two
small sticks of cinnamon. Pour over these 1 breakfast-
cupful of boiling water, and the Negus is then ready for
serving.
(3) Thinly pare the rind off a large lemon, and pound
in a mortar. Put the pounded rind into a jug with two
thinly-sliced lemons and 1 breakfast-cupful of liquid calf’s-
foot jelly ; add in small equal quantities some pounded
mace, cloves, and allspice. Pour lqt. of boiling water
over these ingredients, put a plate over the top of the
jug, and let the contents infuse for twenty minutes. Heat
1 bottle of white wine, add it to the contents of the jug,
sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, and grate in a small
nutmeg. Well stir the Negus, and serve.
NELSON CAKE. — See Cakes.
NELSON PUDDING.— See Fuddings.
NERVE-FOOD. — This misleading term is so fre-
quently used now that it requires some notice. All
foods that are digestible may be classed as Nerve-foods,
so also are they foods for all other parts and organs of
the human system. There is no food specially adapted
for supplying nerves only with nutriment, and those
foods for which such a special duty is claimed are
therefore miscalled, nor could any special advantage be
gained by such a food if it could be found, for the
waste by wear and tear of nerve tissue is almost imper-
ceptible even under the greatest strain. The nerves are
best served, not by special feeding, but by care and
attention to the general health of the body.
NESSELRODE PUDDING.— This remarkable dish
requires special notice. It was invented by Mony, chef
to the famous Russian Count Nesselrode, and is con-
sidered to be the most perfect of all iced puddings.
Gareme pronounced it to be an imitation of a chestnut
pudding constructed by himself, but Jules Gouffe has
set the minds of cooks at ease on the matter by publishing
the receipt given to him by Mony, which runs as
follows :
Peel forty chestnuts, blanch them in boiling water for
five minutes, peel off the second skin, and put them hi a
stewpan with lqt. of syrup at 16deg. (see Sugar-boiling)
and a stick of vanilla. Simmer gently till the chestnuts
are done, then drain and press them through a fine hair
sieve. Put the yolks of eight eggs in a stewpan with Jib.
of pounded sugar and lqt. of boiled cream; stir over the
fire without boiling till the egg begins to thicken. Add
the chestnut puree, press the whole through a tammy -
Nesselrode Pudding — continued.
cloth into a basin, and add 1 gill of maraschino. Stone Jib.
of raisins, and wash and pick Jib. of currants ; cook both
together in \ gill of syrup at 30deg. and 1 gill of water, then
drain, and let them cool. Put a freezing-pot in the ice,
pour in the chestnut cream, and work it with the spatula.
When it is partly frozen, add 3 gills of whipped cream, and
continue working with the spatula until the cream is frozen ;
then add the currants and raisins, and put the pudding
into an ice mould. Close the mould, and put some butter
on the opening to prevent any salt or water from pene-
trating inside ; embed the mould in ice and let it remain
there for two hours. Make the sauce as follows : Put 3 gills
of boiled cream in a stewpan with eight yolks of eggs and
Jib. of pounded sugar, stir over the fire without boiling
till the egg begins to thicken, then take it off the fire
and stir for three minutes more. Strain the custard through
a tammy-cloth and add J gill of maraschino. Put the
sauce on the ice until it is very cold, without freezing.
Turn the pudding out of the mould on to a napkin on a
dish, and serve with the sauce in a boat.
The quantities given in the above are large, but can
be taken at half, one-third, or one-fourth. Other
receipts of an imitative character and dubbed Nesselrode
Puddings will be found under Puddings.
NESTS. — See Birds’-Nest Soup.
NETTLES. — Plants of the genus Urtica are known
by this name, and although commonly shunned by
human beings on account of their stinging propensities,
have been converted by the magic wand of the cook into
valuable vegetables, that is, if gathered when young and
tender. Those of March and April alone are reliable,
for after the flower appears the stalks become stringy and
the leaves strong flavoured. See Fig. 5.
Boiled Nettles. — Procure the Nettles when very young and
tender, and wash them thoroughly. Then chop them finely,
put them in a stewpan with a small quantity of water, and
steam until tender. Toast two or three slices of bread,
trim off the crusts, and lay on a hot dish. Drain the
Nettles well, spread them over the toast, and dust them
over with salt and pepper. Warm 2oz. or 3oz. of butter
until almost oiled, pour it over the Nettles, squeeze
a few drops of lemon- juice over the whole, and serve
quickly.
Nettle Beer.— (1) Procure a large bunch of freshly-gathered
Nettles, put them in a pan with 2galls. of water, and boil
for fifteen or twenty minutes. Put 21b. of loaf sugar
and lfoz. of cream of tartar in a large tub, strain
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
5
Nettles — continued.
the water from the Nettles over them, and stir it with a
wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved. When nearly
cold put in with the liquor 2 scant table -spoonfuls of fresh
brewers’ yeast, cover the top of the tub with a board, and
let the beer work for twenty -four hours. At the end of
that time skim the yeast off the beer and bottle it.
Great care must be taken against disturbing the sediment
at the bottom. Cork the bottles with corks that ha\ e
been soaked in boiling water for a few minutes, and
tie down with string. In two days the beer will be fit
for drinking.
(2) Infuse 4qts. of green Nettles and a little dandelion
and coltsfoot in ljgalls. of boiling water; let it get cold,
strain off the liquor into a bowl, and add lib. of moist
sugar and loz. of cream of tartar; let these dissolve, and
then add £oz. each of crushed ginger and yeast, feet the
bowl in a moderately-warm place where it will work for
a day or so, skim carefully, and bottle. Cork securely,
tie down, and in a few days the beer will be fit for use.
Nettle Wine— Put 2|galls. of soft or river water into a
saucepan with 6Jlb. of sugar, and boil ; add the whites of
two well-beaten eggs, and continue to boil for an hour,
skimming frequently. Slightly bruise about 9qts. of the
young tops of Nettles, put them in a bowl, pour over them
the hot liquor, cover with a weighted cloth to exclude the
air, and leave to cool. Then add 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast,
stir well and frequently for three days, strain the liquor
into a cask prepared to receive it, first putting at the
bottom 2oz. of cream of tartar, lib. of stoned raisins, the thin
rinds of two lemons, and lAoz. of broken white sugar candy ;
let it remain with the bung out until fermentation has ceased.
The cask should be of such a size that it will exactly
hold the liquor, and it must be kept full during fermenta-
tion. Pour in f pint of brandy, bung up securely, put the
cask in a cool place for ten or twelve months, bottle oil,
and in six or seven months the wine will be lit for use.
Stewed Nettles.— Procure a quantity of green tops and leaves
of young Nettles, wash thoroughly in water in which a little
soda and salt have been dissolved, and dry them as much as
possible ; mince finely. Put the mince into a stewpan with
1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper to
taste, and a small quantity of moist sugar; moisten the
whole with a little stock or water. Stew gently at the side
of the fire until tender. When cooked, put in the sauce-
pan a small lump of butter that has been kneaded with
flour and \ table-spoonful of thick cream. Put some slices
of toast on a hot dish, turn the Nettles on to them, garnish
with slices of hard-boiled eggs, and serve.
NEWARK PUDDING. — See Puddings.
NEW COLLEGE PUDDING. — See Puddings.
NEW ENGLAND PANCAKES. — See Pancakes.
NEW JERSEY TEA. — A pleasant aromatic beverage
under this name is prepared from the leaves of Cean-
othus americanus. It does not possess the exhilarating
properties of China or Ceylon teas.
NEWMARKET PUDDING.— See Puddings.
NEWPORT WHIPPED CREAM. — See Cream.
NEW- YEAR CAKES. — See Cakes.
NEW ZEALAND MEAT. — See Australian
Meat.
NIBS— See Cocoa.
NIGHTCAPS.— Although famous enough at one time
when the custom was to settle down for a quiet hour
after supper, the fashion of keeping late hours and
the thirst for more active entertainment have placed our
grandparents’ comforters at a discount. Nevertheless
the two following are appended for the sake of those
who prefer to follow the habits of our forefathers. See
also Oxford Nightcaps.
Nightcaps — continued.
Grandfather’s Nightcap. — Beat the yolk of an egg with
\ teaspoonful of porter spice, then stir in 1 gill of rum.
Melt 1 dessert-spoonful of loaf sugar in 1 breakfast-cupful
of boiling water, and add this to the rum and egg, whisk-
ing with a fork. Strain it into a large hot glass. Whip
the white of the egg to a froth, and pour it on the top
of the rum mixture. Serve with a spoon and stir smartly
before drinking.
Grandmother’s Nightcap. — The same as Grandfather’s
Nightcap, substituting gin for the rum.
NOCKEN. — A kind of dumpling made in various
parts of Germany and very highly esteemed by the
people. The following receipts have been contributed by
a German chef. They are sometimes known as Noques,
and are mostly served in soup.
(1) Slightly warm 4oz. of butter, and beat it until
creamy ; then beat in gradually the yolks of six eggs and
continue beating for twenty minutes. Stir in gradually
with the beaten eggs sufficient flour to make a still' batter.
Put in a stewpan 1A pints of milk, loz. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of sugar, and a small quantity of grated lemon-
peel. When boiling, put in the mixture in table spoonfuls,
but not too many at a time, as they must not touch each
other in cooking. Put the lid on the stewpan, and boil
the contents until the milk has almost entirely evaporated.
Remove the lid, put caster sugar over the Nucken, and
place in a brisk oven until they are nicely browned. When
cooked arrange the Nocken on a hot dish over a folded
napkin or dish-paper, and serve.
(2) Slightly warm 2oz. of butter and beat it until1
creamy, then work in the yolks of four eggs, whisk the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mix the whole.
Gradually stir in sufficient flour to make a thick batter,
add a small quantity of salt, and spread the mixture out
on a dish. In about an hour or less cut it into small
oval-shaped pieces, using a table-spoon, and dipping it con-
stantly in hot soup. Put the pieces in a saucepan of
boiling soup and leave them until they rise to the top.
When cooked, put the Nocken into a soup-tureen, pour
the soup over them, and serve.
(3) Put 2 handfuls of sifted breadcrumbs into a basin,
pour over sufficient milk to moisten, squeeze dry, and
beat well with a spoon. Put 6oz. of butter into a basin,
warm it, beat to a cream, and gradually add the yolks of
six or seven eggs. Work these well until quite frothy,
then turn into the damp breadcrumbs and mix in a
very small quantity of flour, salt, and grated nutmeg.
When of the required consistency take up pieces with a
table-spoon and drop them into slightly-salted boiling water.
Boil the Nocken up once, remove the saucepan to the side
of the fire, put on the lid, and let it stand for about ten
minutes. When the Nocken are firm, take them out,
drain them, cover with breadcrumbs fried dry in butter,
put on a dish, and serve.
(4) Put 8oz. of butter into a basin, warm it, and work
to a cream, gradually adding the yolks of eight eggs.
When it has a frothy appearance, sprinkle in C table-
spoonfuls of flour and the well-whipped whites of six
eggs. Put 1 pint of milk into a saucepan on the fire,
sweeten it, and flavour slightly with vanilla ; when boil-
ing drop in the mixture in the form of quenelles and
poach them. Take the Nocken out, drain them, put
them on a dish, dust over with caster sugar, glaze with a
salamander or in the oven, and serve with a little vanilla
cream poured over them.
(5) Put All), of thin slices of uncooked ham in a mortar,
pound it well, and add 5oz. of butter ; rub this mix-
ture through a fine sieve back into the mortar, season
with salt and pepper, add about 9oz. of chou-paste finished
with eggs, and grate over a little Parmesan. Pound the
whole well, and drop it a little at a time into a saucepan
containing Agall. of hot consomme. Boil the liquor up
once, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and
let it remain for two or three minutes. Take out the
Nocken, put them in a tureen, pour the soup over, and
serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dkc., referred to, see under their special heads.
6
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
N ocken — continued.
(6) Put 2oz. or 3 >z. of butter into a saucepan, warm it,
and mix in an equal quantity of flour. Stir well until it
becomes like a gold roux, then put the saucepan on the
fire, pour in 3qts. of broth, and let it remain until it boils,
stirring all the time. Remove the saucepan to the side of
the fire, and keep the liquor hot. Put Jib. of butter into
a basin, warm it, beat to a cream, and gradually add the
yolks of five eggs and the whites of two. Work until the
mixture is light and frothy, add 6oz. of flour, the well-
whipped whites of two eggs, and a little salt and grated
nutmeg. Drop a small quantity into a saucepan of water
to test its thickness, adding a little more flour if too thin
and a little more butter if too thick. Take up the mixture
with a teaspoon, push it out with the finger, and let it
drop into a saucepan of boiling salted water. When all
the Nocken are in, boil the water up once, remove it back
again to the side, and let them remain in it until quite
firm When done put them into a soup-tureen, skim off
all the scum from the broth, thicken with a liaison of the
yolks of four eggs moistened with cream, pour through a
fine sieve into the tureen over the Nocken, and serve.
NOGGIN. — A small measure equivalent to a gill. It
is derived from the Irish noigin, or Gaelic noigean.
NONPAREILS. — Fr. for the coloured sweets com-
monly known in this country as “hundreds and
thousands.” Mr. E. Skuse, the famous practical con-
fectioner, thus describes the mode of their manufacture:
First sift some powdered loaf sugar through a wire
sieve (forty holes to the inch), again sift what comes
through in a lawn sieve, which will take all the very fine
sugar dust from it. Put, say, 41b. of granulated, left in
the lawn sieve into the steam-pan, set the pan in motion,
and turn on a little steam to heat them ; allow the sugar
to remain in the pan for a little until it is warmed right
through, then put on a little thin syrup, not much, just
to avet them, and while the pan is in motion put your
hands in and rub them about so as to keep the particles
from sticking together while Mret. When they get quite
dry and free give them a little more syrup, and use your
hands again to part them and rub them about. When
they get dry again repeat the dose, still keeping your
hands in motion. When the syrup has been added, should
you happen to get them to stick together or double, it
M’ould be almost impossible to part these little things,
and when they M'ere being brought up large they would
show very irregular in shape and out of all proportion in
size ; to prevent this, see that each coat is dried before
another is added, do not let the syrup be too thick, nor
put on too much at a time. Rub them well with the
hands until they are the required size. If they are wanted
various colours, when you have brought them up to the
size you Mrant, take out, say, three parts of them and
stand them aside. Melt some loaf sugar to a thin syrup,
adding a small pinch of blue. Give those in the pan one
or two wettings with this best syrup, and gradually turn
the steam off the pan until it resolves quite cold, adding
a small portion of this syrup at intervals. When the pan
has ran cold for some little time do not put on any more
syrup ; when they are quite dry, stop the pan, take them
out, they having been finished white, put in another
portion of the Nonpareils, start the pan, turn on the steam,
and when the goods are warm colour part of the syrup
yellow M'ith saffron, and put on a few coatings at intervals ;
then turn the steam off and finish with another coat or
so of this yellow syrup. When they are dry they will be a
nice yellow. Take them out of the pan and put them with
the vdiite ones already finished. Put in another lot of the
unfinished Nonpareils and colour some syrup red, and proceed
in exactly the same way till finished ; then if you Mrant
any more colours you must part the lot according to the
number of colours you require, and finish them in the same
way as the yellow.
NONPAREIL BISCUITS.— See Biscuits.
NONPAREIL BITTERS. — See Bitters.
NONPAREIL PUDDING.— See Puddings.
NONPAREIL SAUCE.— See Sauces.
NOQUES. — See Nocken.
NORFOLK CAKES.— See Cakes.
NORFOLK DUMPLINGS.— See Dumplings.
NORFOLK PUDDING —See Puddings.
NORMANDY PIPPINS.— Apples that have been
peeled, cored, and dried under pressure. (See Biffins.)
They form a nice dessert dish when stewed as follows:
Soak 111), of Normandy Pippins in water for twelve or
fourteen hours, and put them into a stewpan with lqt.
of water, add jib. of moist sugar, twelve cloves, and a little
fresh lemon-peel. Set the pan at the side of the fire and
Fig. 6. Stewed Normandy Pippins.
simmer gently until the contents are quite tender. Leave
them till cold, arrange in a glass dish (see Fig. 6), pour
over as much of the syrup as is required, and serve.
NORMANDY SAUCE. — See Sauces.
NORTHUMBERLAND PUDDING. — See Pud-
dings.
NORWEGIAN NEST. — This is the name given to
a culinary contrivance which consists of a box con-
structed like a refrigerator, the only difference being
that it keeps the heat in instead of out. It is padded
inside with a non-conducting material, with a space in
the centre for receiving the vessel in which the process of
cooking is carried on. If the vessel is filled with water,
and this by the aid of heat is kept at the boiling-point
for a few minutes, and then placed in the box and shut
in by the closure of the lid, the process of cooking goes
on away from the fire no matter in what situation the
box may he placed. On the score of economy this box
recommends itself to every household. The Norwegian
pot was introduced into the French Navy in 1869, and
the results have been very satisfactory.
NOTTINGHAM PUDDING.— See Puddings.
NOUGAT— This is described as a cake, confection,'
or sweetmeat made of almonds or other nuts. When
freshly prepared it is so elastic that it can be moulded
into baskets, cups, or any other shapes. The following
receipts give a variety of favourite modes of preparing
and using Nougat. See Marzipan.
(1) Put 8oz. of caster sugar into a copper egg-whipping
bowl and mix in the whites of three eggs, whipping con-
tinually over a clear fire until the paste is of the consistency
of thick batter. Add Jib. of almonds blanched and cut into
small pieces, 2oz. of chopped candied orange-peel, 1 table-
spoonful of vanilla sugar, and a few drops of prepared
cochineal. Mix thoroughly, and spread it out upon two pieces
of w'afer-paper to about lin. hi thickness; cover with
two more pieces of paper, using a flat plate or board with
a small weight on the top to keep them level. Put them
in an oven of very moderate heat, and bake for a few
minutes. Take them out, and when nearly dry cut them up
into narrow oblong squares; they are then ready for use.
(2) Put Jib. of caster sugar into a copper egg-bovd, and
add the whites of two eggs and 1 table-spoonful of orange-
flower M'ater. Set the pan over a slow fire, and whisk
well until the mixture is of the consistency of stiff batter.
Mix in Jib. of filberts, blanched and shred very finely, stir
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
7
N ougat — continued.
well, and put the paste on sheets of wafer-paper spread
over a baking-sheet in the form of small ovals. Put them
into a very moderate oven, and dry them steadily. They
will be ready for use when firm. Take care to keep them
as white as possible.
(3) Put a little orange-flower water into a saucepan with
14oz. of honey, and boil to the ball degree ( see SUGAR-
BOILING). In the meantime, whisk the whites of two eggs
to a stiff froth, and add 21b. of blanched and finely-chopped
sweet almonds and jib. of caster sugar, and beat them
together with the honey into a smooth paste. Put a sheet
of wafer-paper on a board, spread the paste over to .about
tin. thick, cover it with another sheet of wafer-paper,
and put another board on the top with a weight on it.
When quite cold, cut into shapes, and it is ready for use.
(4) Blanch about 12oz. of filberts, halve them, put them
on a baking-sheet, and slightly colour them. Put 6oz.
of sugar into a boiler, and boil to the caramel ( see
Sugar-boiling), then stir in the halves of filberts,
taking care not to break them, and having them equally
covered. Turn the whole out on to a well-buttered baking-
sheet, spreading it out quickly, and dust over with sugar and
chopped and dried pistachios. When cool, cut into any
desired shape, and use as required. The Nougat may be
flavoured with melted chocolate if liked.
(5) Blanch 5oz. of sweet almonds, and cut them into
fine threads. Roast the kernels of 3oz. of Spanish nuts,
and peel them. Chop the nuts and Hoz. of candied lemon-
peel, then mix them with the almonds and fib. of caster
sugar. Whip the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, stir
them into the other ingredients, anti work all to a paste.
Spread the Nougat on a sheet of wafer-paper, cover with
another sheet of the same paper, press well between two
sheets of iron or tin, and put the paste in the oven for
thirty minutes. Leave the Nougat till cold before cutting
it up.
(6) Put 14oz. of honey into a saucepan with a small
quantity of orange-flower water and boil to the ball degree
(see Sugar-boiling). Whip the whites of two eggs to
a stitt' foam, mix them in with the honey, add 21b. of
blanched and chopped sweet almonds and 5 table-spoonfuls
of caster sugar, and colour with a few drops of cochineal.
Spread the Nougat on a sheet of wafer-paper, lay a sheet
of wafer-paper on top, and press into a solid block between
two sheets of tin or iron. When cold, cut the Nougat into
any desired shape.
(7) Have ready 4oz. of peeled and dried almonds. Cut
each almond into four slices, and lay them in a tin pan
with a sheet of paper under them. Put the pan in a
warm place but not on the stove. Take a copper sugar-
pan, or dropper, put into it 6oz. of powdered sugar, and
place it on a hot stove ; then with a dry wooden spatula
stir continually until the sugar is dissolved, being careful
to avoid browning it. Remove from the fire, add 1 drop
of lemon-juice, and let it cool slightly for three minutes,
stirring constantly. Add the almonds, and mix all gently
with the spatula for two minutes. The Nougat is then
ready for use.
(8) Blanch 4lb. of almonds, and put them in a cool
oven where they will dry and keep slightly warm. Put
21b. of caster sugar into a copper pan, pour in lib. of
white honey, put the pan on the fire, skimming frequently,
and as soon as it begins to boil add 4 table-spoonfuls of
wheat syrup and a few drops of citric acid. When the
sugar is at the crack degree (see SUGAR- BOILING), remove
the pan to the side of the fire, add a few drops of extract
of roses or orange-flower water, and a very little vegetable
carmine ; turn the whole out on to a well-oiled marble
slab, and with a flat spoon scrape it all into the centre
until it forms a mass that can be easily worked. Take
it up in the bands, and work it on a hook in the same
way as for twisted sugar (see SUGAR), but without allow-
ing it to get cold, and working in the almonds and 2
handfuls of soaked pistachio-kernels. Have ready a low
square-shaped wooden case spread with large slips of
wafer-paper, put the mixture in, smoothing it over on
the top so as to give it an equal thickness of about 2in. ,
and cover over with more wafer-paper. Put the lid on
N ougat — continued.
the case with a heavy weight on the top so as to push
the Nougat close down, let it remain for about ten
minutes, turn it out of the case, divide it into long squares,
cutting it in pieces with the aid of a crescent-shaped
cleaving-knife. This kind of Nougat is largely made in
Provence and is prepared there to perfection.
Nougat -with. Apricots.^ Roll out £lb. of puff paste to -Jjin.
in thickness, and bake it in the oven until done. Take
it out, and when quite cold spread over apricot jam to
about lin. in thickness. In the meantime put 1, 11*. of
well-chopped and dried sweet almonds into a basin with
8oz. of caster sugar and the whites of three eggs beaten
to a snow, mix them thoroughly, and spread the mixture
over the jam. Put the sheet of paste, &c., into a moderate
oven, and let it remain until firm and slightly browned.
Take it out, and when quite cold cut them into pieces or
squares ; put them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve.
Nougat Baskets. — (1) Blanch 141b. of almonds, cut them into
shavings, and place them near the fire to thoroughly dry and to
be warmed through. Put fib. of the best confectioners’ sugar
over a moderate fire with just enough water to keep it
from burning, keep stirring it till the sugar begins to bubble,
then stir in the almonds, mixing them well into the sugar.
Have ready some well-oiled shallow moulds, line them
with the Nougat, nicely trim the edges with a good-sized
pair of scissors, notch the edges, and when the Nougat is quite
cold take them out of the shapes, and fill up with whipped
Fig. 7. Nougat Baskets.
cream, laying a strawberry on top. Small handles made of
candy may be put across each. See Fig. 7.
(2) Blanch If lb. of sweet almonds, cut them into long
strips, and dry thoroughly in a warm oven for five or six
hours. Take half the weight of the almonds (when they
are dry) of sugar, put it into a sugar-pan, add the juice of
two lemons, and stir well over the fire until the sugar is
all dissolved. Boil quickly for a few minutes, but without
letting it take colour ; remove the pan to the side of the
fire, and add the almonds. Have ready a basket-mould in
three parts, oil well, and spread the mixture quickly over,
thinly but evenly, seeing that it is quite cool before taking
it off the mould. Spread a charlotte-mould over with the
remainder of the paste, and fix it firmly upside down on a
dish. Fix the bottom part of the basket on the charlotte-
mould, and adorn the upper edge of the basket first with a
border of puff paste baked lightly and then with a circle of
preserved greengages glazed with sugar, fixing two rings of
gum paste for handles. Surround the base of the mould
with a circle of small cakes, fill the hollow of the basket with
vanilla ice cream, and it is ready for use. This makes a
handsome table ornament, but requires great experience to
prepare.
Nougat Cream-Ice. — Put the Nougat in a mortar with 2
table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water and pound it. Put
the yolks of eight eggs in a saucepan with 14 pints of
cream and 12 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and heat
them. Mix the bruised Nougat and three drops of essence
of peach-kernels with the milk and eggs, and stir the
whole over the fire till on the point of thickening. Pass
the mixture through a fine hair sieve into a basin and
leave till cooled. When ready, turn the Nougat cream
into the freezer, and freeze it. The cream can lie served
as it is, or may be turned into a mould and packed in
ice for about two hours. Before serving, the mould should
be dipped in warm water, wiped, and the contents turned
out on to a fancy dish.
Nougatinas. — Blanch and finely chop 111*, of sweet almonds.
Put 21b. of powdered white sugar and the strained juice
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
8
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
N ougat — continu ed.
of a lemon in a sugar-boiler over a moderate fire and stir
till the sugar is melted and boiling ; then add the almonds,
stir them well in, and pour the nougatina paste on a well-
oiled marble slab, forming it into an oblong cake lin.
thick. Cut it in squares, and when cold dip these in melted
chocolate.
NOUXLEES, or NUDEXiS.— These are virtually the
same, the former being a French adaptation of the ori-
ginal German paste ; but national tastes have served in
a measure to modify the shapes and applications, as
will be seen in the following receipts, which are classified,
in order to avoid confusion, into Nouilles, Nudels, and
Dampf-Nudels. The paste is similar in all cases, con-
sisting essentially of eggs and flour.
Nouilles. — The best paste for these is made by
working together eggs and flour in the proportion of five
or six eggs to lib. of sifted flour. It is then manufactured
into Nouilles, and applied to various rises.
Nouilles au Gratin. — (1) Boil a sufficient quantity of
Nouilles in water, drain thoroughly, and put them in a
stew pan with enough cold milk to cover them, 2oz. of
butter, about 4oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, and pepper and
grated nutmeg to taste. Toss the Nouilles about over the
fire for several minutes, then pile them on a hot dish,
strew plenty of grated breadcrumb over, and brown them
in a brisk oven. Serve very hot.
(2) Put lib. or 1 Jib. of shred Nouilles into a saucepan
of salted water and boil them ; take them out, drain,
put them into a saucepan with a seasoning of salt and
pepper, and warm them. Remove the pan from the fire,
and stir in 6oz. of butter broken into small bits, 11b. of
grated Parmesan cheese, and 4 table-spoonfuls of bechamel
sauce. Put this mixture in layers in a gratin-disli with
more grated Parmesan between them, cover the top with
a little warmed butter, set the dish in a very slow oven
with the door open, and let it remain for ten minutes.
Take it out, glaze the surface to a good colour with a
salamander, and serve.
Nouilles a l’ltalienne. — Sift lOoz. of flour on to a board,
spread it, and make a cavity in the centre. Sprinkle in a
little salt, and add a few table-spoonfuls of warm water
and five or six eggs. Well mb the eggs with the hand,
gradually working them into the flour until a smooth
paste is obtained and every particle of Hour worked in.
Roll the paste into a ball, cover it with a basin, and let
it remain for six or seven minutes. Then cut it in halves,
roll both pieces out very thinly, put each on a cloth, and
let them dry for fifteen or sixteen minutes. Cut them
into strips about 2in. wide, dredge over a little flour, put
the pieces one over the other, and cut them transversely
into shreds. Spread these shreds out on sheets of paper,
at a little distance apart, and let them diy. When wanted
for use take them up, after they have been drying for
about an hour, plunge into a saucepan of slightly-salted
boiling water, and boil them quickly for two minutes.
Remove the pan from the lire, let them remain for two
minutes longer, and then turn them out on to a sieve.
Put them, when dry, back into the saucepan, and mix
them up with 41b. of butter pulled into little bits; add,
while stirring, a little grated Parmesan cheese and a
seasoning of pepper and grated nutmeg. Put the Nouilles
in layers in a dish, masking each one with tomato sauce
reduced with a small quantity of warm meat glaze or
gravy, and serve. This paste is common in all the States
of Italy, and is used in preference to macaroni in all except
Naples.
Nouille Cake. — Prepare a Nouille paste with the yolks of
six eggs; cut it up into equal-sized pieces, put these into
a saucepan with lqt. of boiling milk, and cook until done ;
then add 8oz. of butter and 6oz. of orange sugar. Stir
well over a slow fire for about half-an-hour, so that the
Nouilles may become soft and swell considerably. Stir in
a little salt and the yolks of eight eggs so as to give a
body to the paste; put it into a well -buttered mould, bake
for two hours hi a moderate oven, turn out, and use as
required, either hot or cold.
Nouilles or Nudels — continued.
Nouille Cake with Fruits. — Sprinkle the sides of a buttered
plain border mould with minced uncooked Nouilles and
afterwards line it thinly with short-paste. Put lqt. of milk
into a saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it boils
plunge in 6oz. of minced Nouilles; let them remain for
two or three minutes, take out, drain, put into a sauce-
pan with 2 table spoonfuls of cream, set the pan at the
side of the fire with a cover over it, and let the Nouilles
remain until they have absorbed all the moisture. Turn
them out into a basin, and when they are cold stir in two
eggs, a lump of butter, and a flavouring of grated lemon-
zest. Put this mixture into the cavity in the mould,
place in the oven, and bake gently for from thirty-five to
forty minutes. Take the mould out, turn the border cake
Fig. 8. Nouille Cake with Fruit.
out on to a dish, fill the centre with preserved fruits cut in
pieces, and then pile up cherries to form a dome. Slightly
cover the border with a little apricot sauce, put a circle
of greengages on the top of it (see Fig. 8), and serve.
Nouille Cake with Sabayon. — Prepare a Nouille paste
with the yolks of five eggs and a sufficient quantity of
flour. Divide the paste into equal-sized portions, roll them
out, and cut into very thin fillets. Put 1 pint of milk
into a saucepan, and when on the point of boiling put in
the Nouilles, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, and lib. of butter.
Stir the mixture over the fire for two or three minutes,
then move it to the side, add 4 table-spoonfuls of lemon
or orange sugar, and let the whole simmer gently till of a
thick, creamy consistency. Move the Nouilles away from
the fire, and stir in gradually the beaten yolks of seven
eggs ; pour the mixture on to a buttered baking-sheet,
level it off with the blade of a knife to £in. in thickness,
and bake in a moderate oven. When partly baked, turn
the cake over on to another buttered baking-sheet, and
bake for ten minutes longer. When cooked, cut the paste
into rounds with a tin cutter 14in. in diameter, arrange
the pieces in a circle on a hot dish, and keep them warm.
Beat the yolks of five eggs with 5 table-spoonfuls of caster
sugar, turn the mixture into a saucepan, add 1 breakfast-
cupful of v7liite wine and a small piece of lemon-peel, and
whip over a slow fire till thick, on no account letting it
boil ; move to the side, and continue whisking it for ten
minutes. Pour half of the sabayon in the circle of the
cakes, and serve them with the remainder in a sauceboat.
Nouille Croquettes. — Put 1 Jib. of shred Nouille paste
(called Nouilles) into a saucepan of salted water and boil
for a few minutes. Take them out, drain, and put into a
saucepan, with a slight seasoning of grated nutmeg and
pepper ; add 8oz. of butter pulled in pieces, 3 or 4 tea-
cupfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and lastly 2 table-
spoonfuls of reduced bechamel sauce to thicken. Turn the
whole out on to a well-buttered square baking-sheet, smooth
the top over with a knife, making it about fin. thick,
cover with a sheet of well-buttered paper, and let the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
9
Nouilles, or Nudels — continued.
preparation cool. Cut up into 2in. squares, cover the
squares with grated Parmesan cheese, dip them into beaten
egg and then breadcrumbs, plunge them into a frying-pan
of boiling lard or other fat, and fry a light brown.
Take them out, drain, put them on a napkin folded on a
dish, arranging them in the form of a pyramid, and serve.
Nouille Croustades. — Put the required quantity of Nouilles
into a saucepan of salted water and boil them for about
three minutes. Take them out, drain, put into a sauce-
pan on the stove, and add a seasoning of pepper and grated
nutmeg, a good supply of grated Parmesan cheese, and
some butter. Mix all thoroughly, turn the preparation out
on to a buttered baking-sheet to about 2in. in thickness,
cover with paper, put a slight weight on top, and let
it cool. When quite cold cut into shapes with a tin
cutter .about 1 Jin. in diameter, dip the pieces first into
breadcrumbs, then into egg, and lastly into breadcrumbs
again. Make an incision on the top of each with a
tin cutter lin. in diameter to form the lid ; fry them in
boiling fat, take out, drain, take off the lids, scoop out
the insides and they are ready for use. They may be
filled with a puree of any kind or with forcemeat, replacing
the lids when filled.
Nouilles with Lemon Cream. — Sift 6 >z. of flour on to a
table or board, make a hole in the centre, and put in it
5 or 6 table-spoonfuls of brandy, a small quantity of salt,
1 table-spoonful of sifted crushed loaf sugar, and the yolks
of three eggs. Work this into a smooth paste, give it five
turns (the same as for puff paste), roll out very thin, and
cut into strips 4in. or 5m. in length and Jin. in width. Fry
a small qu uitity of these strips at a time in boiling fat,
take them out, drain, and arrange lengthwise in a deep
dish. In the meantime put the yolks of six eggs into a
saucepan, beat them well, and add gradually 9oz. of finely-
crushed loaf sugar. When well incorporated, place the
saucepan on the fire, and stir in 3 breakfast-cupfuls of
milk, taking care not to let it boil. Add a little lemon-
zest, remove the pan from the fire, and as soon as the
mixture is of the required consistency pour it through a
sieve into a basin to cool. When quite cold pour it over
the Nouilles, and serve.
Nouilles with Parmesan Cheese. — Put 2 >z. of butter into
a saucepan placed on a hot stove, and when melted mix
in ljoz. of flour, 1 pinch of salt, a very little cayenne,
and 1 teacupful of milk. Work these to a firm paste and
add three eggs and 4oz. of grated Parmesan cheese. Have
ready a saucepan of boiling water, take the preparation
up in small quantities with a spoon, drop them in the boil-
ing water, and boil for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Take the
Nouilles out, drain, put them on a napkin on a dish, and
serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown sauce.
Nouille Pudding. — Mince a Nouille paste made with four
eggs, put it into a saucepan of boiling salted water, and
boil for a few minutes. Turn out on to a sieve, drain,
Nouilles, or Nudels — continued.
few minutes, then add the yolks of seven eggs and the
white of one, the thin rind of half a lemon very finely
chopped, half a-dozen crushed macaroons, 8oz. of candied
citron-peel cut into small squares, a lump of butter,
and 2 table spoonfuls of well- whipped cream. Butter a
timbale-mould, sprinkle it with sugar, and glaze it ; pour
the mixture into the mould, put a piece of buttered paper
on the top, place it on a baking-sheet in a slack oven, and
bake for about forty-five minutes. When done turn the
pudding out on to a dish, and serve with almond cream
poured over it. See Fig. 9.
Nouille Soup. — (1) Well beat up the yolks of four eggs in
2 table-spoonfuls of water and 1 saltspoonful of salt; whip
the white of one egg separately, add it to the rest, and
sift in gradually, stirring at the same time, a sufficient
quantity of finely-sifted flour to make a stiff paste. When
quite smooth, lay the paste on a floured table or paste-
board, and roll out very thinly. Cut the paste into diamond-
shaped pieces, put them on a cloth, and keep them in a
warm place until dry. Prepare some nicely-flavoured clear
soup, and when it is boiling fast throw in the pieces of
paste and boil them for ten or fifteen minutes. Pour the
soup into a soup-tureen, and serve while very hot with a
plate of grated Parmesan cheese.
(2) Put Jgall. of rich jelly-broth into a saucepan on the
fire and keep it boiling. Add a few table-spoonfuls of shred
Nouilles cut up into rather small pieces and blanched and
drained, let them remain for five minutes, then add a
liaison of the yolks of five eggs diluted with cream and
the breast of a cooked fowl cut up into small pieces ; boil
for a few minutes longer, turn the soup into a tureen, and
serve.
Nouille Turnovers. — Make a soft Nouille paste with one
beaten egg, a small quantity of water, J saltspoonful of
salt, and a sufficient quantity of flour. When well kneaded
divide the paste into pieces about as large as a fowl’s egg and
roll them out into thin oval shapes. Finely chop some pears
or apples, sweeten to taste with sugar, and flavour moderately
with powdered cinnamon ; soak an equal quantity of bread-
crumbs in cream, anil when soft mix all together. Put 1
table-spoonful of the mixture on each Nouille and fold
them over, pinching the edges well together to completely
enclose it. Lay the Nouilles side by side in a stewpan, pour
a small quantity of boiling water over, and steam them for
Fig. 9. Nouille Pudding.
put it back into the saucepan, and mix in 4oz. or 5oz.
of crushed loaf sugar and a small quantity of butter. Put
the lid on the pan and keep the preparation warm for a
an hour. When cooked, drain the Nouilles as dry as pos-
sible, place them on a hot dish garnished with a folded
napkin or fancy dish-paper, dust over with caster sugar,
and serve. See Fig. 10.
Timbales of Nouille. (1) Sift 41b. of flour on to a board,
sprinkle over it a little salt, make a cavity in the centre,
pour in a little water, and add sufficient eggs to form the
paste. With the hands gently rub the eggs into the flour,
mixing a little at a time, and when the paste is smooth
cover it with a basin and let it remain for a couple of
minutes. Then cut it into five or six equal parts, roll
them out very thin, and let them dry for a few minutes.
Flour them slightly to prevent sticking, pack one on top
of another, and cut them into shreds ; then put them into
a saucepan of salted water and parboil. Turn them out
on to a sieve to drain, put into another saucepan, sprinkle
over a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and mix in 5oz.
of butter pulled into small pieces. Arrange them in layers
about 2in. thick in a well -buttered saute-pan, place a
slight weight on them, and let them cool. Cut them with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
10
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Nouilles or Nudels — continued.
a tin cutter into the shape of timbales, dipping them first
into egg and then into finely-sifted breadcrumbs; make a
small cut on the top of each to mark out the cover, plunge
them into boiling lard, and fry a light colour. Take them
out, drain, remove the cover, and scoop out the inside. They
can now be filled with a puree of any game, afterwards
glazed, put on a napkin on a dish, and served.
(2) Genoese Style — Sprinkle the insides of six well-
but'ered timbale -moulds with grated fresh breadcrumb,
line them with thin tart-paste, and fill with finely-shred
boiled Nouilles, adding loz. of butter, and seasoning with
J pinch each of salt and pepper, J pinch of nutmeg, and Joz.
of grated Parmesan cheese. Thicken with 1 gill of strong
Madeira sauce. Cover the moulds with pieces of tart-paste,
and put into a brisk oven for six minutes. Turn the
contents out of the moulds, arrange on a hot dish contain-
ing 1 gill of hot Madeira sauce, and serve.
Timbales of Nouilles flavoured -with Orange. With
6jz. of flour, the yolks of eight eggs, and a little salt,
prepare a Nouille paste. Roll it out, and cut into strips
abjut 2in. wide; flour the strips well, put them one upon
another, and cut into shreds. Put these into a sauce-pan
with lcjt. of boiling milk, and boil for a few minutes ;
then put in 6 >z. of orange sugar, 4oz. of butter, and a very
little salt, and simmer gently until the Nouilles become
soft and swollen. Now stir in the yolks of six eggs and
the whites of two ; remove the saucepan from the tire, add
the whites of two eggs and 4 table-spoonfuls of cream,
both well whipped, and thoroughly incorporate them. Line
a timbale-mould with puff paste, fill it with the mixture,
and bake in a quick oven ; turn out carefully when done,
and serve. This may be flavoured with vanilla or any
similar ingredient.
Nudels. — Although made with the same kind of paste
as the Nouilles, the peculiarity of these, according to
German ideas, is that they are cut into shreds or thin
strips.
(1) Mix in a basin 1 teaspoonful of salt with Jib. of
flour, then mix in four beaten eggs and work the dough
until sinoDth. Dredge flour over a paste-board, turn the
dough on to it, and knead well. Roll the dough very thinly,
then twist it up like a rolled jelly-cake. Cut half the roll
into strips a little le\;s than Jin. thick, and the remaining
half into strips about Jin. thick. Put the broader strips
of paste into a saucepan of boiling water with a lump
of salt, and boil for a-quarter-of-an-liour. Put Jib. of
butter into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire until blue
smoke rises, then throw in the narrow strips of paste, and
fry until lightly browned. When cooked, turn the boiled
strips of paste on to a sieve, drain well, and put them on
a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper. Next drain the other strips as
free from fat as possible, and joile on the top of the boiled
ones. Strew caster sugar over the Nudels, and serve with
cream.
(2) Put 6 >z. of sifted Hour on to a board, make a bay, and
work in a little salt and the yolks of seven or eight eggs
to form a stiff paste, which must be worked five times.
Cut the paste into quarters, and roll these out as thinly
as possible. Cut them into strips about 2in. wide, then
into very thin pieces; put them into boiling broth, and
cook for a few minutes, when they will be ready for use.
Should the strips of paste, be required for sweetmeats they
may be poached in boiling cream.
(3) Put lib. of Nudels into a saucepan of salted water
and boil ; take them out, drain, put them into a basin, and
mix in 5oz. each of grated Parmesan cheese and butter.
Put in a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and 4 table-
spoonfuls of bechamel sauce ; turn the mixture on to a plate,
and smooth it over ■with a knife. Put 5oz. of butter into a
saucepan, warm it, sprinkle in 2 teacupfuls of sifted bread-
crumbs, cook them gently for four or five minutes, turn
out over the Nudels, and serve.
Nudel-and-Ham Pudding. — Sift 1 pint of flour on a paste- [
board or table, make a hole in the centre, in which break
three eggs ; add a small quantity of salt, and work the I
Nouilles or Nudels — continued.
whole well together. Divide the paste into four equal
portions, and roll each one out as thinly as possible ; cover
with a cloth, and leave until somewhat dry. Afterwards
roll the paste out again and cut into thin strips. Put the
Nudels into a stewpan of boiling salted water, and boil
them for eight minutes, stirring constantly. At the end of
that time turn them on to a fine sieve, pour plenty of
cold water over, and let them drain until quite cold. Finely
chop about 6oz. of lean boiled ham thickly butter the
interior of a tin mould, strew in plenty of finely-grated
breadcrumb, then fill the mould with alternate layers of
the paste and ham, putting Nudels for the first and last
layers. Well beat four eggs with 1 teacupful of cream
and pour it over the contents of the mould, which then
Fig. 11. Nudel-and-Ham Pudding.
put into a moderate oven and bake for about an hour,
or until it is nicely browned. When conked, turn the
contents of the mould on to a hot dish and serve.
See Fig. 11.
Nuclei Pudding. — (1) Well beat an egg with J saltspoonful
of salt, stir in sufficient flour to make a stiff paste, and
knead into a smooth dough. Divide into moderate-sized
portions, mould them into balls, and roll out as thinly as
possible. Cut into very thin strips, and when dry throw
the strips into a stewpan with boiling water and a small
quantity of salt, and let them simmer until soft. When
cooked, drain, and put in a small lump of butter. Separate
the whites and yolks of two eggs, and well beat the yolks
with 2oz. of butter that has been warmed ; pour in with
the Nudels, then whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow
and stir in at the last ; sweeten to taste. Butter a mould,
strew some raspings thickly over the inside, pour the
Nudels into it, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked,
turn the pudding out of the mould on to a hot dish, and
serve.
(2) Make some Nuclei paste with two eggs, sufficient
flour to stiffen, and a small quantity of salt ; divide the
paste into moderate-sized poitions, mould them into balls,
and roll them out as thinly as possible. Cut the paste
into very fine strips, put them into boiling, slightly-salted
water, and boil slowly until soft. Drain them, put them into
a lined stewpan with 3oz. of butter, 1 breakfast-cupful of
sour cream, four well-beaten eggs, and 3 table-spoonfuls of
grated Parmesan cheese ; season to taste with salt, and stir
the whole over a slow fire until well mixed but not
boiling. Butter a mould, turn the mixture into it, and
bake until lightly browned. When cooked, turn the
pudding out of the mould on to a hot dish, and serve
quickly.
Stewed Nudels. —Make a sufficient quantity of fresh Nudels,
drain them dry, and cut into thin strips. Put a lump of
butter in a stewpan, and when it has melted put in the
Nudels; toss them over the fire until nicely browned, being
careful not to burn them. Moisten the Nudels with milk,
and stew them gently until soft. When cooked, move
them to the side of the fire, stir in two well-beaten eggs,
and sweeten to taste ; let them simmer at the edge of the
lire for a minute or two without boiling, then turn on to
a hot dish, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <t c., referred to, see under their special heads.
11
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Nouilles, or Nudels — continued.
Dampf-Nudels. — These are made of N ridel paste to
which yeast has been added, so that in the cooking they
swell up, and are of much lighter consistence.
Dampf-Nudels (Polish Style).— Put 1 ill*, of Damjf
Nudel paste into a basin, and set in a warm place to rise.
Then turn out on to a floured hoard, and work it well with
the hands for a few minutes; let it get quite cold, roll out
very thin, and with a small tin cutter cut it into rounds.
Have ready some apple marmalade reduced and mixed
with rum, put a little of this on each of the rounds, fold
over the paste, and turn them upside down on a buttered
baking-sheet. Let them remain for forty-five minutes to
rise, then brush over with warmed butter ; put them with
the baking-sheet into a moderate oven and bake until done. |
Pull out the baking-sheet, dredge a little caster sugar over
the Dampf-Nudels, glaze slightly, put on a napkin over
a dish, in a pyramid or heap, and serve.
Dampf-Nudel Cake (Munich Fashion). — Sift lib. of
flour, keep it in a warm place for a time, and make a bay
in the centre. Mix loz. of German yeast with 1 teacup-
ful of warm milk, pour it in the bay, mix about a quarter
of the flour with it, cover, and let it rise in a warm
temperature. When double its original size, knead all
the flour together with Jib. of melted butter, the yolks of
five eggs, and sufficient tepid milk to form a soft paste.
After this has been well worked, sift in Jib. of caster
sugar and 1 teaspoonful of chopped citron-peel, and set it
to rise again. Sift flour on a table, roll out the paste, let
it remain for two or three minutes, and then divide it in
rounds with a tin cutter about 1 Jin. in diameter. Flour
a cloth, lay the rounds on it, cover them with paper, and
leave them for a few minutes ; then brush each one with
c ay fish butter, and arrange them in circles in a plain
cylinder-mould. When the circles reach to three-quarters
the height of the mould, let the paste rise till it reaches
Fig. 12. Dampf-Nudel Cake.
the brim ; wrap the mould round with strips oi buttered paper,
and bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. When
done, turn it out on to a dish (see Fig. 12), and serve
with vanilla-flavoured cream in a separate dish.
Dampf-Nudels with. Cream. — Put 31b. of sifted flour into
a basin, and place it in the oven to warm. Take it out,
and make into a very stiff paste by adding Joz. of German
yeast dissolved hi warm milk ; cover the basin, and put it
into a warm place. 11' lien the dough has risen to double
its original size, work it well with the hand, and mix in
Jib. of warm butter, 4 table-spoonfuls of sifted crashed
loaf sugar, a very small quantity of salt, and, gradually,
the yolks of four or five eggs. Should the paste be too light
or thin, add a little more flour, or if too thick a little more
yolk of egg. Set it again to rise, then turn it out on to
a table or board. When it is quite cool, flatten it and cut
into strips about the thickness of a finger ; cut these again
transversely, having the pieces of such dimensions that
when rolled up they will be the size of filberts. Roll
them up, put them at the bottom of a well-buttered flat
Nouilles, or Nudels — continued.
saucepan — close together, but without allowing them to
touch — and let them remain for an hour to rise. When
well risen, brush the Nudels over with l teacupful of sweet
milk flavoured with vanilla, pour in sufficient warm milk
to slightly cover them, put the lid on the saucepan, place
it in a quick oven, and bake for about twelve minutes, by
which time all the liquor should have evaporated. On no
account must the lid of the pan be taken oft while they
are cooking. Remove the Dampf-Nudels, which should be
quite dry and of a delicate yellow colour, by placing the
blade of a knife under them ; put them on a dish in the
form of a pyramid, and serve with a little cream poured
over them, and some more in a sauceboat.
NOURMAHAL CAKE. -See Cakes.
NOYAU or, NOYEAU.— The meaning of this word
is the stone of a fruit. Some very famous liqueurs
have been made from the kernels of various fruit-stones,
to which the name has been extended, and in spite of
the fact that these kernels are reputed to contain large
quantities of prussic acid, Noyau continues to he a prime
favourite, especially in France. It can be prepared from
any of the following receipts, and adapted to various
purposes as shown hereunder.
(1) This cordial requires to be very sweet, and is made by
dissolving Joz. of oil of cinnamon, Joz. of oil of orange, and
loz. of oil of bitter almonds, in 2galls. of pure spirit, adding
lgall. of syrup. When thoroughly mixed it is ready for use.
(2) Pour Jgall. of brandy over the young sprouts of
the peach-tree, and let them remain for three days in
order to extract the flavour of the leaves. Strain off the
liquor, and add Jgall. of clarified sugar and 4oz. of almonds,
blanched and chopped up small. Let the whole remain for
about six weeks, then pass through a strainer, pour into
bottles, cork, and it is ready for use.
(3) Put 1 pint of syrup into a basin, pour in 1 pint of
the best brandy, and add a little extract of almonds and
a little less of extract of lemon. Pour it into a bottle,
shake well, and it is then ready for use. The syrup and
almond extract must be very clear, otherwise, after the
liqueur is made, it will have to be filtered.
(4) Put lib. of caster sugar into a basin with 4oz.
each of sweet and bitter almonds, blanched and chopped
fine, and pour over these lqt. of strong gin. Put the
basin in a warm place, stirring at intervals for about two
weeks. Pass it through a very fine sieve or filter through
paper, pour into bottles, cork, and put it by ready for use.
(5) Blanch and pound 3oz. each of sweet and bitter
almonds, and put them into a bottle with the thin rind of
two lemons ; pour over lqt. of gin and leave for three days in
a moderately warm place, giving the bottle a shake every
three or four hours. Dissolve 14oz. of sugar in 1 breakfast-
cupful of boiling water, add it to the other ingredients,
and leave it for twenty-four hours longer, giving the bottle
an occasional shake. Strain the liquor, then filter it,
bottle in small bottles, and in six months’ time it will be
fit for use, but it is improved by keeping.
(6) Blanch lib. of bitter almonds and pound them until
smooth ; put them in a large earthenware jar with lib. of
loaf sugar, Joz. of mace, and a small grated nutmeg or half a
large one. Pour over these ingredients lgall. of brandy,
and leave them for a fortnight, stirring well every day.
At the end of that time cover the jar, and leave the con-
tents untouched for six weeks. Afterwards bottle it and
leave for some months longer before using.
(7) Take 31b. of powdered white sugar, lib. of bitter
almonds, and Jib. of sweet almonds ; blanch the almonds
and pound them to a paste with some of the sugar. Put
this paste and the rest of the sugar into lgall. of gin,
and let it stand for ten days, then filter it through paper,
bottle, and cork well.
(8) Blanch 4oz. of sweet almonds, put them into a mortar,
and pound to a paste with 1 dessert-spoonful of rose-water ;
put this paste into a jar, together with lib. of loaf sugar
and J pint of the best brandy, cover the jar well, and let
it stand for two days, shaking frequently, then add the
grated peel of half a lemon, the strained juice of a lemon,
For detail s respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, Ac., referred to, see under their special heads.
12
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Noyau, or Noyeau — continued.
4 table -spoon ful of strained honey, and H teaspoonfuls of
essence of bitter almonds. Let the liquor stand a week
longer, shaking it every day. After it has stood for ten days
in all, strain it through fine muslin, bottle, cork, and seal
the corks. This is a nice flavouring for custards and
puddings ; it also makes a refreshing summer drink if
mixed with ice water.
(9) Take a hundred kernels of either peaches or apricots,
blanch and bruise them, and put them hi a bottle with a piece
of stick cinnamon, 1 teacupful of orange-flower water, and
lqt. of brandy. Keep the bottle in a warm temperature for
seven or eight days, removing the cork occasionally, and
shaking the contents of the bottle. At the end of that
time place the bottle in a cool temperature and leave it
for three months. Put lib. of loaf sugar in a small lined
saucepan with 2 pints of water and the juice of one lemon.
Beat the white of an egg with the shell, put it in the
saucepan with the sugar, and boil the whole until reduced
to a thick syrup. Skim the syrup and pour it into the
bottle of Noyau. The syrup must not be made and mixed
with the Noyau until the expiration of the three months.
Strain the whole, pour it into small bottles, and keep them
tightly corked till wanted for use.
(10) Put into a bottle lqt. of spirits of wine of 62deg. over
proof, 4 drops of oil of aniseed, 1 of tincture of vanilla, 3
of oil of roses, and 15 of the essential oil of bitter almonds.
Well shake the bottle to thoroughly incorporate, pour in
lqt. of syrup, and add sufficient pink colouring to give it
the required tint. Filter into small bottles, put in a cool
place, ami keep until wanted for use.
Noyau Cream. — Blanch about Jib. of Jordan and loz. of
bitter almonds, and throw them into cold water ; rinse them
well, and pound in a mortar with 2oz. of sugar and 1 gill
of cream. Mix well together and rub through a hair sieve
into a basin ; also add nearly 1 pint of whipped cream
flavoured with Noyau, and loz. of dissolved isinglass ;
sweeten to taste, mix well together, and pour into a
mould. When set and wanted for use, turn out in the
usual way.
Noyau Cream Ice. — Stir into 1 pint of cream 3 wineglass-
fuls of Noyau, and add a little sugar and a few drops of
lemon-juice. When thoroughly incorporated, put the
cream into moulds, and place them in the freezer ; then
turn out and serve.
Noyau Honey. — Blanch Jib. of sweet and 2oz. of bitter
almonds, and pound them in a mortar with 21b. of caster
sugar. Mix them with 1 pint of cold milk that has been
boiled, and add the rinds of three lemons, tgall. of gin,
and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of honey. Put all into a large
bottle or jar, shake daily for ten days, then filter the liquor
through filtering-paper ; pour it into bottles, cork and seal
them, and the honey is ready for use.
Noyau Jelly. — (1) Put loz. of isinglass into \ pint of luke-
warm water and stir over the fire until dissolved. In the
meantime put over the fire lib. of loaf sugar, the juice of
half a lemon, and 4 pint of cold water, and boil without
stirring until a thick syrup is formed ; mix the syrup and
1 wineglassful of Noyau liqueur, with the dissolved isin-
glass, strain the jelly into a mould set in cold water, and
allow it to harden before turning it out. Garnish round
with preserved peaches and apricots alternately with
points of angelica between them. See Fig. 13.
(2) Put 2oz. of gelatine into 1 breakfast-cupful of water
and let it soak for ten minutes. Take it out, put it into a
saucepan with lqt. of water, and dissolve it over a clear
fire, stirring continually. When quite dissolved, put in
the strained juice of eight lemons, the peel of a lemon cut
very thin, 1 gill each of Noyau, brandy, and sberry, and
sufficient loaf sugar to sweeten. Stir in the whites and
shells of four eggs. Put the pan over a clear fire, and
as soon as it boils remove it to the side, cover it over, and
let it remain for five minutes longer. In the meantime
blanch 3oz. of sweet almonds and put them into cold water
to preserve the colour, take them out, wipe them dry, and
cut up into long shreds. Pass the jelly through a jelly-
bag, continue to strain it until quite clear, and then mix
Noyau, or Noyeau — continued.
in the pieces of almonds. Fill up a mould with the
mixture, set it on ice or in a cool place, and when the
jelly is quite firm turn it out on to a dish, garnish
with well-whipped cream, and serve.
Noyau Jelly with Apricots. — Put 12oz. of sugar into a
saucepan with 2oz. of gelatine, and pour over the whites of
three eggs moistened with lqt. of water and the juice of
a lemon. Put the pan over the fire, stirring it well with
a whisk until it boils. Then remove it from the fire, and
when it has cooled a little strain it through a jelly-bag
into a basin ; then pour it back, and strain again until
quite clear. Let it get quite cold, and then mix in 1 breakfast-
cupful of Noyau. In the meantime put some halves of
apricots in a saucepan with a little syrup, cook them, take
them out, and put on a sieve to drain. Take the kernels
from the stones of the apricots, blanch and peel them, and
divide in halves. Set a plain cylinder-mould on ice, fill
it with the jelly and apricots put in alternate layers, and
sprinkle the halves of kernels round the sides of the
mould. Cover the mould with a baking-sheet, pack ice on
the top, and when the jelly has remained thus for two
hours turn it out and serve.
NUDELS. — See Nouilles.
NUN’S CAKES.— Nee Cakes.
NURSERY BISCUITS.— Nee Biscuits.
NUTS (Fr. Noisettes; Ger. Niisse; Ital. Noce; Sp.
Nuez). — Although it is said that the kernels of Nuts
require the stomach of an ostrich to digest, it is certain
that they are general favourites, and are devoured with
comparative impunity by all classes. Nuts may be de-
scribed as the fruit of certain trees and shrubs, containing
within a hard case a kernel more or less pleasing tc
the taste, the number of Nuts answering this de-
scription is very great. They will be found described
under their various headings. The following receipts
apply to almost any kind of Nuts, from cocoa-nuts down
to those of the hazel.
Candied or Crystallised Nuts. — Put 1 breakfast-cupful of
sugar into a sugar-boiler with 1 breakfast-cupful of water,
and boil to the crack degree ( see Sugar-boiling). Put
the boiler into a saucepan of boiling water to keep the
syrup hot, and dip in the required quantity of blanched
Nuts, sticking them on the point of a needle or thin
skewer to do so ; then put them on a slightly-buttered dish,
and let them cool. If they are not sufficiently coated with
the syrup, dip them again. When diy, the Nuts are ready
for use.
Nut Cake. — Put 1 teacupful of butter into a basin, warm
it, beat to a cream, and add gradually 1 breakfast-cupful
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
13
Nuts — continued.
of sugar. When the mixture is quite light and frothy,
stir in two well-beaten eggs, then 1 teacupful of milk,
and next 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, with 1 teaspoonful of
cream of tartar and half the quantity of bicarbonate of
soda. Now work in quickly 1 breakfast-cupful each of
stoned raisins and blanched Nuts, very finely chopped ;
turn the mixture into well-greased, deep baking-pans, and
hake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Turn it
out when done, and serve cold. If preferred, 1 J teaspoon-
fuls of baking-powder may he substituted for the cream of
tartar and soda.
Nut Candy. — Put 3 breakfast-cupfuls of sugar into a sugar-
boiler with 1 teacupful each of vinegar and water and
the strained juice of a lemon. Set the boiler on the fire,
and stir until boiled to the crack ( see Sugar boiling).
Drop it in small quantities on a well-buttered baking-
sheet, put half a blanched kernel on each, and when
nearly cold cover the Nuts with more of the syrup. When
the required number is done, dry the sweets on a sieve
over the fire, and they are ready for use.
Nut Comfits. — Remove the shells from about 81b. of Nuts;
pick the kernels clean, put on a stove or on a baking-
sheet in the oven, and dry for two or three days. Then
put them in a pan of boiling water to blanch, nibbing
them well with the fingers to remove any pieces of the
skin that may remain. Take them out, drain, and dry
thoroughly in front of the fire. Have ready a sufficient
quantity of gum Arabic dissolved in hot water and passed
through a fine sieve. Put 4|lb. of clarified sugar into a
sugar-boiler, boil it to the thread degree (see SUGAR BOILING),
and mix in a little of the dissolved gum to make it of the
required consistency ; then place the pan at the side of the
fire so that the syrup will keep hot, but without boiling.
Put the Nuts into the comfit-pan, pour over about 2
table-spoonfuls of the dissolved gum, spreading it over as
much as possible so as to give them all a slight coating.
When they are dry, give a second coating, taking care not
to put in too much or it will make the Nuts too damp.
When the gum is quite dry, pour over a little of the
syrup to give them another coating, and continue in this
way live or six times, increasing the quantity of syrup
every time, but taking care to see that one coating is
quite dry before another is added. The Nuts will now
have had six or seven coatings, and the next one must be
of syrup and gum in equal proportions, stirring them with
the hand to prevent their sticking together ; this will also
make them smooth. Care must be taken not to have
too violent a heat under them, or they will colour and
spoil the effect. Sift them well in a sieve to remove any
sugar- dust that may stick to them, put them back in the
comfit-pan, and continue the coatings of syrup until the
Nuts are of the required size. Take them out when done,
and dry on a sieve in front of the fire for a day. Boil
some double-refined sugar to the thread degree ( see SUGAR-
boiling), and give the comfits eight coatings of it, put-
ting a little gum in the first and last. Dry the comfits
again, and the next day give them eight or ten coatings
with sugar boiled to the little pearl degree ( see SUGAR-
BOILING), reducing the quantity of syrup put in every time,
and when each of these coatings is given reduce the heat
under the pan and swing it for thirty or forty minutes
before giving another coating. Let the Comfits diy for
another day, then put them back in the comfit-pan with-
out any heat under it, and give them three coatings with
sugar boiled to the small thread degree, to give them a
glossy appearance. Put them on a sieve over a slow fire,
dry again, put into boxes or tins, and they are ready for
use.
Nut Cream-Ice. — Put the yolks of seven or eight eggs into
a saucepan, beat them well, and add gradually about 12oz.
of sifted crushed loaf sugar, working it to a froth with a wooden
spoon, then pour in 1 pint of boiling milk, and adjl a stick
of vanilla to flavour. Pour the cream into a basin, and
add 6 table-spoonfuls of Nuts blanched and pounded to a
paste with a few blanched sweet almonds. Let the prepara-
tion cool, pass it through a fine sieve into a freezer, and
it is ready for use.
Nuts — continued.
Nut Liqueur. — Put eight or ten green Nuts into a jar, and
pour over them lqt. of brandy at 22deg. strength; place
a cover over the jar, and for about three weeks put it in
the sun during the day time. Next add lib. of crushed
loaf sugar ; let this remain for another three weeks, then
filter the liqueur into bottles, cork down, and it is ready
for use. This is a very digestive liqueur.
Nut Pudding. — (1) Blanch about four dozen fresh Nuts, pound
half of them with a few blanched sweet almonds, and
put the paste into a saucepan with 1J pints of hot vanilla
cream. Stir well over the fire until the mixture is thick,
then let it cool, and pass it through a fine sieve into a
basin ; pour a little of it at the bottom of a dome-shaped
mould packed in salted ice, sprinkle over a few of the
remaining Nuts cut in halves, and fill up the mould in
this way. Put a round of paper on the top, then the lid
of the mould, cementing it all round with a paste of flour
and water, cover the mould with ice, and let it remain
for an hour or so ; then take it out, turn the pudding
quickly on to a napkin folded on a dish, and serve.
(2) Steep about ill), of small Nuts in cold water all
night ; on the following morning drain, and pound them
in a mortar. Grate the crumb of two penny rolls and
mix with the Nuts, also Jib. of chopped suet and marrow,
Jib. of caster sugar, a small quantity of finely-chopped
citron and orange-peel, a little grated nutmeg, and 1 pinch
of salt. Beat the yolks of eight eggs and the whites
of four, mix them with 1J pints of cream, and stir the
whole in with the other ingredients. Line a buttered
dish with puff paste, pour in the above mixture, and bake
in a moderate oven for an-hour-and-a-half. The pudding
may be served either hot or cold.
NUT-CRACKERS.— Very useful instruments (see
Fig. 14) upon a dessert-table when nuts are supplied.
There should be several pairs if the guests are numerous,
one pair being allowed to every two or three.
NUTMEGS (Ft. Muscades ; Ger. Muskatenusse ; It at.
Noces Moscada; Sp. Nuez Moscadas).— The shelled seeds
of the Myristica fragrans, or Nutmeg-tree. Lindley tells
us that the Nutmeg-tree is largely cultivated in the
Molucca Islands, Java, Sumatra, Bengal, &c. It is a
tree from 20ft. to 25ft. in height, with oblong aromatic
leaves, and fruit something like a peach (see Fig. 15),
having a longitudinal groove on one side, and bursting
into two pieces, when the enclosed seed, covered by the
mace, is exposed. The seed itself has a thick hard
outer shell, which may be removed when dry, and which
encloses the nucleus of the seed, the Nutmeg of the
shop.
Several kinds of Nutmegs are met with in commerce,
those known as Penang being the most valuable. Next
to these come the Dutch or Batavian kind, and after
these, those from Singapore. Dutch Nutmegs are marked
on the outsides by white furrows caused by dusting
them over with lime to keep away the Nutmeg-insect,
which eats its way into them and destroys their aromatic
principles. Besides those described above there are other
Nutmegs of an infei’ior character known as the long or
wild Nutmeg. These are frequently met with in the shell,
or in the mace without the shell.
Kettner observes of Nutmegs, that in olden times there
was scarcely ever a dish that was not flavoured with
Nutmeg, but now we have gone to the other extreme,
For details respectin' l Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i be., referred to, see under their special heads.
14
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
N utmegs — continued.
and it is rarely ever used except for sweet dishes. See
Mace.
Candied Nutmegs. — Soak the Nutmegs to be candied in
water, and afterwards lay them in an earthenware pan.
Boil Hlb. of powdered white sugar, ^ gill of rose-water,
and a very little gum Arabic, to candy \see Sugar-boiling),
and pour it over the Nutmegs. Set the pan in a warm
place, cover it closely, let it stand for three weeks, and the
Nutmegs will be like rock candy.
Extract of Nutmegs. — Put a couple of dozen Nutmegs into
a mortar, pound them well, or they may be grated if more
convenient, and put them into a bottle with 1 pint of
strong gin. Shake the bottle frequently for a month or
so ; then strain off the liquor into smaller bottles, and it
will be ready for use.
Nutmeg Flavouring. — (1) Put 1 drachm of Nutmeg oil and
\oz. of powdered mace into 1 pint of spirits of wine, and let
it macerate for about twelve hours. Pass the liquor through
filtering-paper, put it into bottles, and it is then ready
for use.
(2) Mix 2 drachms of oil of Nutmeg and loz. of finely-
powdered sugar with 2 pints of alcohol, and in a few
days strain the liquor for use.
Nutmeg Lozenges. — Put 21b. of caster sugar on a marble
slab, make a cavity in the centre, and pour in sufficient
dissolved gum Arabic or gum dragon to make it into a
paste. (The gum is generally dissolved in the proportion
of 2£lb. of gum Arabic to '2-h pints of water, or loz. of i
gum dragon in i pint of water). Mix in Joz. of oil of
Nutmeg, and roll out the paste on the slab until it is
about gin. in thickness. Dust it, as well as the slab, with
starch powder and sugar, rubbing them well over the
surface with the palm of the hand. Cut out the lozenges
with a tin cutter, and put them on trays in a cool oven
or on the stove to dry. When dry, they are ready for
use.
Surprise Nutmegs. Pour \ gill of cold water on 1 break-
fast-cupful of the best sugar, add J saltspoonful of cream
of tartar, and let it stand for a short time, then stir it well,
put it in a pan over a moderate fire, and let it boil till a
little of it tried in cold water forms a thin jelly. Take it
off' the fire then, and let it stand for a few minutes, keep-
ing the pan closely covered. Beat it to a smooth cream
with a wooden spoon. Take l breakfast-cupful of grated
or pounded hickory nuts with a little powdered cinnamon,
grated Nutmeg, and 1 or 2 drops of clove oil mixed with
N utmegs — continued.
them, and work these into the creamed syrup. Get some
Nutmegs, with the mace on them whole, remove them
from the mace, taking great care not to break it more
than is necessary, and fill the mace with the mixture.
OATCAKES. — See Oatmeal.
OATMEAL (Fr. Gruau d’avoine ; Ger. Hafermehl :
Ital. Farina di vena ; Sp. Harina de avena). — “ A Scotchman
is never in greater peril,” says a contemporary, “than
when the subject of Oatmeal gets uppermost. It is the
condiment which, in a little water, makes the drink of the
frugal harvester; as porridge, or in some kindred form,
it is his breakfast; as cake, it forms with cheese his dinner;
and on high days and holidays, made into fancy dishes,
it is the material wherewith he feasts his family, and
regales himself and friends.”
That Oatmeal is exceedingly nutritious is shown by
Letheby, who gives the following as its analysis :
Nitrogenous matter
Carbo-hydrates
Fatty matter
Saline matter
Water
12-6
638
56
30
150
100
Oatmeal is the grain of the oat (Avena sativa) deprived
of the skin, kiln-dried, and afterwards ground in a mill.
It is remarkably rich in oily or fatty matter, and as a
flesh-former it holds a high rank. There are three kinds
of Oatmeal, coarse, fine, and groats, the latter being
unground, and the coarse or fine depending upon the
grinding. In England, Oatmeal has unfortunately ac-
quired rather a bad name through adulterations Several
inferior starches, such as rice and maize, are added ; and
sometimes whitening, plaster of Paris, and ground bones
are utilised, to make up the bulk.
3roch.au. — This Scottish dish is prepared with Oatmeal
known as medium ground. Put 1 pint of water into a
saucepan on the fire, bring it to the boil, add 1 dessert-
spoonful of the Oatmeal, mix in 1 teacupful of cream to-
gether with sufficient salt to taste, and boil for about an
hour. Have ready some cups or small basins, pour in the
mixture, stir in a little golden syrup, or if preferred thin
slices of cheese, and serve immediately.
Paris.— See Oatmeal Cakes.
Oatmeal Biscuits. — Mix with lib. of medium Oatmeal |lb.
of flour and l table-spoonful of baking-powder; mb in
lib. of butter, and when quite smooth stir in sufficient warm
milk to knead the whole into a paste ; turn it on to a table
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
15
Oatmeal —continued.
and roll out very thin. With a round tin cutter about 2in.
in diameter cut the paste into rounds, lay them on
baking-sheets, and bake quickly in a brisk oven. When
cooked, leave the biscuits until cold, then pack them in
biscuit-tins, and keep them in a dry cupboard. A few served
on a plate at luncheon are general favourites. See Fig. 16.
Oatmeal Bread. — Rub Jib. of butter into l^lb. of flour,
and when smooth mix in 2 table-spoonfuls of brown sugar,
1 saltspoonful of salt, and |lb. of Oatmeal. When thoroughly
mixed make a well in the centre, in which put 2 table-
spoonful;-; of brewers' yeast ; cover with a cloth, and stand
it in a warm temperature for an hour to rise. Afterwards
work the mixture up with sufficient warm milk to form a
dough, divide it into equal-sized portions, and mould them
into flat round cakes (see Fig. 17); lay them on baking-
dishes, a short space between each, and bake them. When
cooked, split the cakes open, butter them well, then close
them again ; put them on a hot dish, and serve quickly.
Oatmeal Cakes (Large). — (1) Rub 17, lb. of lard into 71b. of
Oatmeal mixed with lilb. of flour and lioz. each of cream of
tartar, bicarbonate of soda, and salt. Turn the mixture on
to a board or table, make a hollow in the centre, and pour
in sufficient cold water to make it into a stiff" dough. Take
about £lb. of it, form it into a cake, cut it into quarters,
put it on a baking-tin, and bake in a sharp oven until quite
done.
(2) Put 1 breakfast-cupful of Oatmeal into a basin and stir in
with it 1 teaspoonful of salt and sufficient water to make
it into a stiff' paste. Strew a small quantity of Oatmeal
over a paste-board, put the paste on it, and mould it well
with the hands, shaping it into a thin, round cake. Make
an iron griddle hot, lay the cake on it, and place it over a
clear fire. When one side of the cake is browned, turn it
over quickly and brown the other side.
(3) Mix well together 3oz. of Oatmeal, 7oz. of flour, 1
table spoonful of salt, and J saltspoonful of bicarbonate
of soda ; melt 3 >z. of lard over the fire in a saucepan,
and stir it well into the mixture together with an egg
beaten up with 1 table-spoonful of water. Roll the paste
out very thin, lay it on a greased baking-tin, and bake
it for twenty minutes in a hot oven. The temperature at
the oven door should be 240deg.
(4) Small. — Mix a little bicarbonate of soda and salt in
with lib. of Oatmeal, and rub in 4oz. of lard, dripping, or
butter, whichever is prefefred. Add 1 teacupful of water to
make it into a dough, turn it out on to a board well sprinkled
with meal, and knead it slightly. Roll it out to the thick-
ness of a penny piece, cut it into rounds with a biscuit-
cutter, put them on the hot stove or griddle, and when
they are done on one side hang them in front of the fire
to brown the other side. They are then ready for use or
may be put away in boxes and kept in a dry place ;
in the latter case they should again be made crisp by
holding them in front of the fire for a few minutes before
serving.
(5) Put lib. of Oatmeal in a basin, pour over it 1 pint
of sour butter-milk, cover the basin with a cloth, and
leave it until the following day. Mix 1 teaspoonful
of bicarbonate of soda and 1 teaspoonful of salt with lib.
of flour, then work it well in with the Oatmeal. Roll the
paste out to the desired thickness, divide it into small |
Oatmeal — continued.
cakes, and bake them in a moderate oven. When cooked
and cold, the cakes should be put in tins.
(6) Mix 1 saltspoonful of salt with h teacupful of Oatmeal,
moisten it to a stirt' paste with cold water, and knead
it lightly ; strew Oatmeal over a paste-board, put the
mixture on it, roll it out as thinly as possible, and bake
over a clear fire, turning it with a slice when done on
one side. When cooked, dry the cake in front of the fire
for a minute, and proceed to make others in like manner,
the paste being made in small quantities on account of
its drying quickly. Keep the cakes in biscuit-tins.
Oatmeal Cake with Cheese (American). — Cut an Oatmeal
cake into quarters, put a thin slice of any kind of cheese
on each part, and toast in a very slow oven ; on the
top of each place a poached egg, dust over with pepper,
and serve hot.
Oatmeal Cocoa. — Mix smoothly |lb. of the finest Scotch
Oatmeal and fib. of cocoa separately, with a small
quantity of boiling water ; stir these together, and
pour in gradually 3galls. of boiling water. Add half a
lemon cut in slices, leave it until cold, then mix with
the liquor a moderate quantity of milk, sweeten to
taste, and it is ready for serving.
Oatmeal Cream. — This is a refreshing and stomachic
cream. Pour lqt. of water into a saucepan and put
in 8oz. of fine Oatmeal and a little salt; set the sauce-
pan on the lire, and boil gently for three hours. Strain
the liquor through a cloth or very fine sieve into
another saucepan, add 3 pints of white broth and a little
sugar, boil it up again, then remove the pan to the side,
anti keep it hot. Let it remain for an hour, then acid
a little raw cream and a small lump of butter, turn the
cream out on to a dish, and serve with small pieces of
fried bread.
Oatmeal Drink. — Put 2oz. of the coarsest Oatmeal into 2qts.
of cold water and boil it for half-an-hour ; next strain the
liquor and sweeten to taste with moist sugar. If served
hot, flavour with cloves or lemon-peel boiled in it ; if
served cold, flavour with lemon- juice.
Oatmeal Dumpling. — Make a paste of Oatmeal and butter,
mixed together with cold water, form it into a dumpling,
put in a haddock’s liver well seasoned with salt and pepper,
tie it in a floured cloth, and boil.
Oatmeal Gruel. — (1) Mix 2 table -spoonfuls of Oatmeal to
a smooth paste by adding 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of water ;
stir in 3 breakfast-cupfuls of milk or water, pour it into
a saucepan over a slow fire, and cook gently for an hour,
or a little more if required, stirring frequently and from
the bottom of the pan. When done, turn it into a basin and
serve. It may be strained if the thick sediment is
objected to.
(2) Pour 1 breakfast-cupful of cold water over 2oz. of
Oatmeal in a basin, stir it, let it stand for a minute or
so, and then pour over a similar quantity of boiling water,
stirring all the time. Strain it through a conical sieve
into a saucepan and boil for ten minutes. Stir in a small
piece of butter and 1 table-spoonful or so of sugar, and
serve very hot.
(3) Mix 3 teaspoonfuls of Oatmeal in a little cold
milk, and add a very small quantity of salt — about |
saltspoonful. Boil the thinly-pared rind of half a lemon
in 4 pint of milk, and while it is boiling add by degrees
the Oatmeal and milk, stirring all the time. Let it boil
gently for ten minutes, add sugar to taste, stir in 14
table-spoonfuls of brandy and it is ready for use.
Oatmeal Mush. — Put 1 breakfast-cupful of coarse Oatmeal
into the top part of a double boiler with 1 teaspoonful of
salt and nearly lqt. of boiling water, and boil over the fire for
ten minutes, stirring all the time with a wooden fork. At
the end of that time place the upper boiler into the one
containing hot water, and cook for an hour if preferred soft ;
but if liked very dry, cook for nearly three hours. Just before
serving, remove the cover from the top boiler, stir the
contents once, and leave it for a few minutes so that the
steam may escape. Turn the mush on to a hot dish, and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
16
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oatmeal — continued.
serve with sugar, cream, and baked apples in separate
dishes.
Oatmeal Pie.— (1) Put 1 gill of cold milk into a basin and
sprinkle in 2oz. of fine Oatmeal. When thoroughly mixed,
pour in 1 pint of boiling milk, turn it into a saucepan, add
sufficient sugar to sweeten, and boil slowly for ten minutes.
Stir in 2oz. of finely -grated breadcrumb, and when the
mixture is still' add two well-whisked eggs, a little Jemon-
or orange-peel for flavouring or a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, and loz. of finely-shred suet. Pour the mixture
into a well-buttered dish, and bake for an hour in a moderate
oven. When it is done, take it out and serve hot. A linely-
Fig. 13. Oatmeal Pie.
chopped onion and 1 teaspoonful each of minced sage and
marjoram may be added instead of the other flavourings,
and it may be turned out and served on another dish (see
Fig. 18) with some gravy in a sauceboat.
(2) Put | teacupful of Scotch Oatmeal into a saucepan
with I f jiints of water, and boil it until reduced to a jelly,
then move it from the fire and let it get cold. Cut about
lib. of Australian mutton into slices ; spread some of the
Oatmeal over the bottom of a small pie-dish, lay in the
slices of mutton, strew over them chopped onion, parsley,
.and a small quantity of sage, dust them over with salt and
pepper, and cover with a layer of the Oatmeal. Fill
the dish with alternate layers of Oatmeal and meat, season-
ing as before, and making the last layer of Oatmeal.
Dredge the pie lightly over with flour, and bake it for
an-hour-and-a-half in a moderate oven. Serve while hot.
Oatmeal Porridge. — (1) Stir 2oz. of Oilmeal gradually
into a saucepan containing lqt. of boiling water, and add
1 teaspoonful of salt. When all is added, boil gently for
thirty minutes, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture
sticking to the pan. When it is done it should be like a light
jelly but not stiff, although it will set. Turn it out into
a bowl or basin, and serve hot with cream or milk. It
is also eaten with sugar or treacle (golden syrup), and if it
is boiled for an hour it will become lighter, adding a little
more boiling water if it should thicken.
(2) Let the water boil before the meal is put in ; then,
without removing the pan from the fire, the meal should
be poured regularly in from the band in a continuous
stream, stirring all the time. Upon this depends the art
of making porridge, and the success of the cook is shown
in the smoothness of the porridge and entire absence of
lumps. Allow the porridge to boil for ten minutes, and
then add salt, but not before the ten minutes of boiling
have fully expired, because salt has a tendency to harden
the meal and prevent its swelling. After putting in the
salt to taste, boil for ten minutes, and serve with new
milk. The consistency of the porridge can be regulated
by the amount of Oatmeal used.
(3) A rather more fanciful dish claiming the same title
is prepared by putting lqt. of water in a stewpan and
letting it boil. Mix 1 table-spoonful of meal with h pint
of cream ; this is poured into the stewpan or saucepan of
boiling water, and simmered for fifty or sixty minutes.
Serve with golden syrup, thin slices of cheese, or crusts of
bread.
Oatmeal Pudding. — (1) Put 1 teacupful of Oatmeal and 1
breakfast-cupful of brown breadcrumbs in a basin and pour
over them 1 pint of boiling milk. Cover the basin and leave
the contents until cold, then stir in two well -beaten eggs,
sweeten to taste, and add a smal 1 quantity of grated nutmeg.
Butter a pudding-basin, pour the mixture into it, and tie
a iloured pudding-cloth over the top. Put the pudding into
Oatmeal — continued.
a saucepan of boiling water and boil it for an hour. When
cooked, turn the pudding on to a hot dish, and serve.
(2) The night before the pudding is wanted put £ pint of
fine Oatmeal into a basin of cold water ami let it soak until
the following morning. Pour 1 pint of boiling milk over
the Oatmeal, and add 1 teaspoonful of salt ; butter thickly
the interior of a pudding-basin (one that will just hold the
Oatmeal should lie used), pour the Oatmeal into it, tie a
well-lioured cloth tightly over the top, put it into a
saucepan of boiling water, and boil the pudding for an-hour-
and-a-half. When cooked, turn it on to a hot dish, pour
some cream round if, or some hot milk thickened with
fl >ur, and serve.
(3) Put 1 breakfast-cupful of cold water into a basin,
mix in gradually 4oz. of coarse Oatmeal, and then pour in
double the quantity of boiling milk or water. Stir in two
eggs, a little spice, loz. of finely-slued suet or fat, 2oz. of
sultana raisins, and sufficient sugar to sweeten. Have
ready a well -buttered basin, pour in the mixture, cover
it with a cloth, and boil in a saucepan of water for
about an-hour-and-a-half. In the meantime, put loz. of
ripe currants into a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful of
water, and boil for five minutes. Mash the currants with
a spoon against the side of the pan, and mix in 1 table-
spoonful of Hour made into a smooth paste with water
and spice and sugar to taste. When the pudding is done,
turn it out on to a dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve.
Treacle may be served with this instead of currant sauce.
(4) Put 1 heaped teacupful of Oatmeal into a basin, pour
1 pint of boiling milk over it, and let it stand for several
hours, keeping the basin covered with a plate. Put the
Oatmeal into a stewpan, and cook it gently at the side of
the fire for an hour, giving it an occasional stir. Break
four eggs in a basin, and beat them well with h table-
spoonful of flour and h teacupful of treacle. Work the
mixture into the Oatmeal, place it over the fire, and stir it
quickly until on the point of boiling. Turn the pudding
on to a hot dish, and serve.
(5) Press a sufficient quantity of raspberries or red
currants to make 1 pint of juice, strain it into a saucepan
through a fine hair sieve, pour in 1 pint of red wine,
sweeten with loaf sugar, and [dace over the fire until boil-
ing. Sprinkle 4oz. of Oatmeal into the boiling wine, and •
stir until thick. Rinse a mould with cold water, fill
it with the mixture, and pack it in ice or set it in a cold
place until firm. When ready to serve, dip the mould in
warm water, wipe it, and turn the pudding on to a dish,
together with stewed fruit, or fruit sauce.
Oatmeal Sandwich (Irish). — Work 2oz. of dripping or
butter into 8oz. of fine Oatmeal, add a little less than 1
teaspoonful of baking-powder, and stir in quickly 1 tea-
cupful of warmed milk. Have ready a well-buttered York-
shire-pudding baking-tin, pour in the mixture, and bake
in a moderate oven for about forty-five minutes, when it
should be quite done. Turn it out on to a dish, mask
with jam or marmalade, fold over, and serve hot. The
marmalade or jam may be omitted.
Oatmeal Scup. — (1) Pour 1 breakfast-cupful of water over
loz. of Oatmeal in a basin, mix well, and let it remain
for a minute or two ; then stir in an equal quantity of
broth, strain it into a saucepan, and boil for ten minutes.
Add any seasoning that may be preferred, and serve hot.
(2) Put some groats into a saucepan of boiling water
and add a small lump of butter. Let them remain for an
hour or so, then strain into a basin and add lemon-peel
and cinnamon to flavour, a little white wine, and sufficient
moist sugar to sweeten. Put the saucepan containing the
soup on the fire, boil up, strain into a soup-tureen, anil
add some cream and yolks of eggs well beaten together.
Put a few pieces of toasted bread on the top to float, and
serve.
Oatmeal Wafers. — Mix a small quantity of salt into 8oz. of
Oatmeal flour, and make it into a dough by adding 1 tea-
cupful of boiling water. Turn it out on to a board well
sprinkled with meal, knead it slightly with the knuckles,
roll it out as thin as possible, cut it with a biscuit-
cutter into shapes, brown first one side and then the other
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
17
Oatmeal — continued.
on a griddle, and when they are crisp (see Fig. 19), they
are done and ready for use.
Fig. 19. Oatmeal Wafers.
Oatmeal Water. — (1) Pour 1 pint of cold filtered or boiled
water into a jar over a little more than 1 table-spoonful
of coarse Oatmeal. Stir well from the bottom, and then
let it stand until all the sediment has settled. Strain off
the clear, and it is ready for use. It may he used for
giving nourishing qualities to lemonade.
(2) Put 4oz. of Oatmeal into a large jar or howl, and
mix in 24galls. of water. Stir it well, pour it into a sauce-
pan, and boil it slowly for thirty minutes; then strain it
through a rather coarse sieve, and add sufficient brown
sugar to sweeten. Half an ounce of tartaric acid, or Joz. of
citric acid dissolved in it, is an improvement, especially if
lemon- or orange-peel be boiled in it.
OCHRA, or OCRA. — See Okra.
OCTAVE. — A small cask of wine holding about
1 1 .(galls., originally the eighth part of a pipe. There are
also half-octaves.
OFFAL. (Fr. Abattis). — The technical name given
to those parts of a slaughtered animal that are not
supposed to be used for food; such as the hide, and
internal parts. At one time the tail of the ox was
included in the Offal, also the head, heart, and other
organs ; but most of these are now specially dressed by
the Offal merchant and re-sold to the butcher.
OFFICE PASTE.— See Gum Paste.
OHM. — See Aum.
OIL (Fr. Huile; Ger. Oel; Ital. Olio; Sp. Aceyte). — A
sort of fluid grease, extracted from animal, vegetable,
and mineral substances. The kind of Oil best known
to cooks is Salad or Olive Oil; some others, such as
Seed Oil, being occasionally used for frying.
OKRA.— The name of this plant ( Abelmoschus escu-
lentus) is also spelled Ochra and Ocra. It is a native of
the West Indies, but has been naturalised in India and
America, where the pods are much used for thickening
soup, being exceedingly mucilaginous and aromatic. The
young green pods (see Fig. 20) are sometimes pickled
and the older pods are preserved in tins for export. Soup
or stew containing Okra-pods is called Gubbo or
Gumbo.
Boiled Okras.— (1) Put some young Okras into a saucepan of
salted water, and boil them until quite tender. Take them
out, drain, and put them into a saucepan with a little more
than 1 table-spoonful of butter and h gill of cream. Boil
the Okras up, turn them out on to a” dish, dust over with
salt and pepper, and serve very hot.
(2) Take twenty-four medium-sized Okras, and wash them
well in cold water.. Drain thoroughly and pare both ends.
Plunge the Okras into a saucepan containing boiling salted
water,, and let them cook for fifteen minutes. Lift them
out with a skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to drain.
Use them for salad, or any other purpose desired.
Dried Okra Soup.— (1) Put i pint of dried Okras into 3
pints of cold water, and let them soak all night ; on the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
VOL. II.
Okra — continued.
following morning put them with the water into a sauce-
pan with as much stock as will make up the desired
quantity of soup, and boil it for five hours. Next put in
some American tomatoes, season to taste, and boil for two
hours longer. Turn the soup into a soup-tureen, and serve
with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
(2) Pick over lqt. of dried Okras, wash them in cold
water, and soak overnight in 2qts. of cold water. Be sure
that the Okras are tender, for if tough and full of woody
fibre they will be unpalatable. The next morning, pluck
and singe a tender fowl weighing about 31b., draw it with-
out breaking the intestines, wipe with a wet towel, cut it
in small joints as for fricassee, and roll the pieces in flour
Fig. 20. Okiia-plant.
seasoned with pepper and salt. Put a saucepan over the
fire with h breakfast-cupful of lard, and when the fat is
hot put in the chicken and fry it a light brown. When
the chicken is brown, add to it the Okras and the water
in which they have been soaking, together with enough
water to make 4qts. of soup ; season with salt and pepper,
and cook gently until the chicken is tender. Meantime
remove all bits of shell from lqt. of large oysters, and
strain the liquor ; mb to a fine powder 1 table-spoonful of
dried sassafras-leaves, sift the powder through a very fine
sieve, and put it into the soup. When the chicken is
tender, put in the oysters together with their liquor,
boil for two minutes, and serve very hot. In some of
the large cities of America a powder made of sassafras-
leaves and shoots is sold under the name of gumbo filet ;
when this is used, it is stirred into the soup just before
serving.
Okra-Gumbo.— Nee Okra Soun.
Okra Salad. — Put about twelve Okra-pods in a saucepan
with slightly-salted water and boil them ; when cooked, drain
the pods, and put them in cold water to cool. Prepare a
Fig. 21. Okra Salad.
bed of chicory in a salad-bowl ; cut the Okras in quarters,
and lay them on the chicory (see Fig. 21). Mix teacup-
fuls of salad-oil with 1 teacupful of vinegar, season it with
salt and pepper, add 1 teaspoonful of chopped herbs, pour
the mixture over the salad, and serve.
Sauces, <kc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
C
18
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Okra — continued.
Okras Sautes a la Creole. — Prepare twenty-four Okras as
for Boiled Okras. Place in a sautd-pan loz. of butter,
one minced medium-sized onion, and a minced medium-sized
green pepper; put the pan on the stove for six minutes until
the contents are of a golden colour, and add two raw peeled
tomatoes cut into pieces, 3 table-spoonfuls of Spanish sauce,
a pinch of salt, J pinch of pepper, and one crushed clove of
garlic. Put in the Okras, cover with the lid, and cook
slowly for fifteen minutes. Turn out on to a hot, deep dish,
sprinkle over 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and seive.
Okra Soup. — (1) Cut into slices Jib. of pork, put it into a
frying-pan, fry gently for a few minutes, and add a sliced
onion and lqt. of green Okra-pods cut into small pieces.
Put the lid on the pan and fry the Okras for thirty minutes.
In the meantime cut all the meat from a cold roast fowl,
put the bones in a saucepan with lqt. of water, and boil.
Squeeze out all the pork-fat from the Okras and onion, and
place these latter in the saucepan with the bones. Put 3
table-spoonfuls of flour into the pan with the pork-fat, and
when it is a rich brown add it to the bones in the saucepan
Place the cover over the pot and simmer the whole gently
for three hours. Strain through a fine sieve into another
saucepan, pour in 2qts. of stock, and add the fowl-meat cut
in pieces and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for
twenty minutes, turn it out on to a dish, and serve with
boiled lice.
(2) Put Jib. of fat ham or bacon into a frying-pan and
fry it, taking care not to let it burn. Cut 21b. of veal into
small pieces, roll them well in 2 table-spoonfuls of flour,
fry them brown in the ham or bacon-fat, and place them
in a saucepan. Put two sliced onions and a slice each of
carrot and turnip into the pan with the fat, fry gently,
put them into the saucepan with the veal, and add 1 pint
of green Okras cut into small pieces, \ pint of shell beans,
four sticks of celery, and lgall. of water. Place the pan at
the side of the fire and simmer gently for two hours, then
add two ripe tomatoes, 1 pint each of green peas and green
corn cut from the cob, and salt and pepper to taste; simmer
for thirty minutes longer, and serve. If the Okras used are
dried, half the quantity will be quite sufficient.
(3) Cut a peck of Okra-pods into very thin slices, not
exceeding Jin. thick, but thinner if possible. In selecting
the pods, choose those from 2in. to 3in. in length: they can be
used as long as they remain tender, which can be ascertained
by snapping off the ends ; if too old they will only bend.
Put a large piece of shin of beef into a stockpot or a
digester with 2Jgalls. of water and a little salt. Boil for
a few minutes, skim well, add the Okras, and about J peck
of tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces. The grains from
three tender ears of green corn and \ pint of Lima beans
may be added if desired, but they are not altogether neces-
sary, as the excellency of the soup depends upon the cooking,
for if not boiled enough it M ill have a very inferior flavour.
An iron pot or saucepan should never be used, as it will
turn the soup black instead of a green tinted with the
orange of the tomatoes. When it has boiled briskly for
five hours, being frequently stirred, it may be poured into
the soup-tureen and served, as by that time all the meat
will have separated from the bone and boiled to rags, and
the soup will be of the consistence of thick porridge.
(4) Cut up two chickens (either old or young may be used),
put them in a saucepan with one small chopped onion, two
or three slices of pickled pork, and a lump of lard, and
fry them slightly. Put in with the chicken eighteen Okras,
J peck of sliced tomatoes, and salt and pepper ; pour in 3qts.
of boiling water, and boil it gently for thirty minutes.
When ready to serve, turn the soup into a soup-tureen.
Scalloped Okras and Tomatoes. — Cut lqt. of Okras and 1
pint of peeled tomatoes into slices as for Stewed Okras
with Tomatoes, and after they have stewed for a-quarter-
of-an-hour add 1 table -spoonful of butter and a little pepper,
and turn them into a deep dish. Cover with cracker or
breadcrumbs, put some small pieces of butter on the top,
bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour, and seive.
Stewed Okras with Tomatoes. Cut lqt. of Okras into
thin slices and put them into a saucepan with 1 pint of
peeled and sliced tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
Okra — continued.
add a little water to prevent them burning, and simmer
gently for thirty minutes. When done, mix in 1 table-
spoonful of butter, and serve on a dish.
OLIO.— A word taken from the Spanish olla, sig-
nifying an earthenware pot, and hence the stew made
in it, of which the following is a good example :
Clean a couple of young rabbits and partially boil them ;
next drain and cut the meat into small pieces about lin.
square. Put them into a stewpan with twenty-four oysters,
about 3 breakfast-cupfuls of clear rich gravy, three
blades of mace, a moderate-sized nutmeg cut into small
pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, and salt and pepper in
moderate quantities. Stew gently until the meat is quite
tender, then take it out with the oysters and strain the
gravy. . Put Jib. of butter and 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of
flour into a stewpan, stir them over the fire with a
wooden spoon until mixed, then pour in the strained gravy,
and add a chopped boned anchovy and 1 wineglassful of
white vine. Continue stirring the whole over the fire until
boiling, then put in the meat and oysters, and warm them
up again. When ready, turn the Olio on to a hot dish,
garnish with quarters of lemons, fried parsley, and fried
oysters, and serve.
OLIVES (Fr. Olives; Ger. Oliven; Ital. Ulive; Sp.
Olivas). — The fruit of the Olive-tree (Olea europcea), which
is extensively cultivated
in Italy, Spain, and the
South of France. The
unripe fruit is pickled
in brine, and served
at table to cleanse and
prepare the palate for
choice wines ; the ripe
fruit yields an excellent
oil, which is highly valued
for culinary purposes (sec
Salad-oil). Olives are oval
in shape with a smooth
rind, resembling small
green plums, and they
grow in massive bunches
on the trees (see Fig.
22). In our markets,
Italian Olives rank high-
est, being large and very
fine flavoured ; French
Olives are the next best,
and Spanish Olives come
last.
When served at table
it is usual to place here
and there a few small
glass dishes of Olives nice-
ly arranged, and sur-
rounded with their own
liquor. Ingenious cooks
have however discovered
means of subjecting them
to various culinary preparations, as will be seen by the
following receipts:
Mock Olives. — With the blade of a small sharp penknife
loosen and work out the stones of as many green plums as
required, put them into a jar over a few vine-leaves or tansy,
sprinkle a little fennel-seed amongst them, a good supply of
salt, and a little powdered alum ; pour over sufficient boiling
oil to cover, and when cold, tie down. A small piece of
anchovy or sardine put in the cavity left by the stone, and
the fruit put in jars with a good vinegar pickle poured
over them, will give the effect of stuffed Olives.
Olive-and- Anchovy Butter. — Stone some French Olives, and
wash and chop them. Skin and bone an equal quantity
of anchovies, chop them also, and mix them with the Olives.
Put the mixture in a mortar with half its bulk of fresh
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, (be., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
19
Olives — continued.
butter, and pound all together until perfectly smooth. Pass
the mixture through a fine hair sieve, and shape it into
small balls. Keep them on a dish placed over ice until
ready to serve. This butter is very nice eaten with crisp
toast.
Olive-and-Anchovy Canapes. — Stone and peel some Olives,
keeping their original shape as near as possible ; well wash
an equal number of anchovies, and coil an anchovy round
each Olive. Cut as many rounds of bread 2in. in diameter
as there are Olives, and toast them lightly on both sides ;
butter them while hot and put an Olive on each. Spread
a lace-edged disli-paper over a hot dish, arrange the toast
on it, garnish with a border of fresh well-washed water-
cress, and serve. This makes a very simple dish for lunch.
Olive-and-Caper Canapes. — Cut six slices of bread about
ijin. thick, out of which cut twelve rounds. Melt a lump
of butter in a flat stewpan, then put in the rounds of
bread and fry them. When nicely browned, take them
out of the fat, and put them on a piece of paper to drain.
Skin and bone twelve anchovies, put them in a mortar,
pound them, then pass them through a fine wire sieve.
Spread the anchovy paste over the pieces of bread, strew
finely-chopped capers and olives on the top, place them on
a baking-dish, and put them in a brisk oven for ten
minutes. Spread a folded napkin or a fancy-edged dish-
paper over a hot dish, arrange the toasts on it, garnish
with a few small pieces of parsley, and serve.
Olive Custards. — Stone some Olives. Beat two eggs well,
put them into a lined stewpan with 2oz. of grated Parmesan
cheese, and with a wooden spoon stir them over the fire
until thickened, then remove the pan. Cut as many small
rounds of bread as there are Olives, fry them in boiling
butter until a bright golden brown, then drain ; spread
them with a layer of anchovy paste, then a layer of the
cheese mixture, and put an Olive on each. Spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish,
arrange the rounds on it, and serve.
Olives and Eggs.— Remove the skins and stones from six
Olives, and mince them together with a slice of cooked
ham. Have ready five hard-boiled eggs, remove the shells
and cut off a piece from each end so that they will stand.
Cut them in halves, put the yolks into a mortar with
the ham and Olives, and pound them to a smooth paste,
adding hoz. of butter. Sprinkle over a little red pepper,
and fill up the whites with the mixture; arrange them
on an ornamental paper spread over a dish, decorate with
pieces of toast and parsley (see Fig. 23), and serve. The
half-eggs should have the appearance of cups, and they
may be served (without the paper) with a little tartar
sauce poured round them.
Olives for Garnish.. — Remove the stones from some large
Olives by cutting them round and round in a spiral form,
so that when the stones are out the Olives will retain
their original form. But them into a saucepan, qiour in
stock and Chablis wine in equal proportions to cover, and
stew very slowly until done. Salmis of duck is usually
garnished with this.
Olive Ragout. — (1) With a sharp knife stone and peel
some Olives ; melt 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, then put
in the Olives with a moderate quantity each of finely-
chopped parsley and shallots, a few capers, a few drops of
essence of anchovies, 1 wineglassful of white wine, and
sufficient clear gravy to moisten nicely. Leave it on the
fire until boiling, then thicken the ragout with Hour and
Olives — continued.
butter that have been browned over the fire. Let it
simmer a little while at the edge of the fire. When
ready, turn the ragoflt on to a hot dish, garnish it with
sippets of toast or small crotltons of bread fried in butter,
and serve.
(2) Put a small lump of butter in a frying-pan, place it
over the fire until melted, then put in the finely-chopped
white part of a large leek and 1 scant dessert-spoonful of
finely-chopped parsley. Fry them until beginning to brown,
then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add 1 wineglass-
ful of sherry, 2 table-spoonfuls of Olive oil, 1 table-spoon-
ful of finely-chopped capers, and a small quantity of salt
and pepper. Turn 1 breakfast-cupful of large green Olives,
and remove the stones ; put them in with the other ingre-
dients, and stew the whole gently at the side of the fire
for forty minutes. When ccoked, turn the ragoflt on to
a hot dish and serve.
(3) Cut out the stones without spoiling the shape of
eighteen or twenty Italian Olives, put them into a saucepan
with sufficient rich stock to cover, add 1 wineglassful of
sherry, put the lid on the pan, and stew gently at the side of
the fire for half-an-hour. Turn it out when ready, and use as
required for garnish or otherwise.
Olive Sandwiches.— Stone the Olives and chop them up
finely ; mix thoroughly with them about loz. of fresh butter
and 1 pinch of cayenne pepper. Cut some thin slices of
bread-and-butter, and spread them with the Olive mixture ;
press another slice of bread-and-butter over each, cut them
into fingers, arrange them on a folded table-napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper on a dish, and serve.
Olive Sauce. — (1) Put twenty-four green Olives into a basin
of hot water and let them remain for thirty minutes to
extract all the salt. Put a small slice of onion into a sauce-
pan with 2 table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and as soon as the
onion commences to colour add 1 table-spoonful of flour,
and stir well until the flour is perfectly smooth. Pour in
1 pint of rich stock, and remove the pan to the side of the
fire where the stock can simmer gently. Remove the
stones from the Olives by cutting the fruit as for OLIVES
for Garnish, add them to the sauce, season with salt
and pepper, and simmer for twenty minutes longer. Skim
well, and when ready to serve squeeze in the juice of a
lemon. If a thin sauce is desired, 1 teaspoonful of flour
will be quite sufficient.
(2) Put 3oz. of stoned Olives into a saucepan of boiling
water, let them remain for five minutes, and then turn
them into cold water to soak for an hour. Take them out,
drain, place them in a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful
of rich stock, and cook slowly for a-quarter-of-an-hour ;
when ready to serve, add the juice of half a lemon.
(3) Stir 1 table-spoonful of flour into 4 table-spoonfuls
of salad-oil, and mix in half-a-dozen chopped shallots, a
bay-leaf, a little chopped lemon-peel, 2 table-spoonfuls of
vinegar, J pint of stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Put
the saucepan containing them over the fire, and boil for
twenty minutes or so. Strain into another saucepan, add
eight or so chopped stoned Olives, warm, and it is then
ready for use.
(4) Put some butter into a stewpan, and when melted
add some finely-chopped parsley and scallions. Stir well
until they colour, then add a small quantity each of gravy
or broth, white wine, capers, and anchovies pounded with
Olive oil. Add a few stoned Olives, boil up over a clear
fire, with butter kneaded in flour, and the sauce is then
ready for use.
(5) Stone half a-dozen or more Olives, and cut them
into small pieces ; finely mince five or six shallots and a
small piece of thinly-pared lemon-peel. Put 1 table-spoon-
ful of Hour into a stewpan, and mix 1 teacupful of salad-
oil smoothly in with it ; add the chopped shallots and
lemon-peel, moisten with 1 wineglassful of vinegar and a
moderate quantity of clear stock, season to taste with
salt and pepper, and add a bay-leaf. Boil the sauce gently
for twenty minutes ; next strain and return it to the
stewpan with the Olives, and let it simmer for two or
three minutes longer. The sauce is then ready for serving,
and makes a very nice accompaniment to minced mutton.
For details respecting Culinary Processes. Utensils, Sauces, referred to, see under their special heads.
C 2
20
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Olives — continued.
Olives Stuffed with. Anchovies. — Stone a dozen Spanish
Olives, wash and hone five anchovies, chop them finely, put
them in a mortar with a moderate quantity each of chopped
onion and parsley, pound them smoothly, and season with
a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Fill the hollows of
the Oli es left by the stones with the pounded mixture.
With a tin cutter cut rounds about 2in. in diameter out
of slices of bread, and scoop a hollow in the centre of each
round ; put a large piece of lard into a flat stewpan, place
the pan on the fire, and when the lard boils put in the
rounds of bread and fry them until nicely browned. After -
Fig. 24. Olives Stuffed with Anchovies.
wards drain them, leave them until cool, then put an Olive in
the centre of each. Arrange them on a dish, pour over
a small quantity of mayonnaise sauce, and serve. See
Fig. 24.
Olives Stuffed with Chestnuts. — Procure twelve Spanish
Olives and six Spanish chestnuts. Put 2oz. of butter into an
enamelled saucepan with 2oz. of ham cut into small pieces,
a moderate -sized carrot and onion peeled and cut into
thin slices, and fry them until they are brown ; then add a
bay-leaf, a blade of mace, four or five peppercorns, dredge
in 1 table-spoonful of flour, and moisten with some of the
liquor from the Olives. Stir the whole until mixed, then
place the pan over the fire for an hour and stir occasion-
ally. Boil the chestnuts, and when tender peel them, put
them in a mortar with loz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and pound
until smooth. Peel the Olives, remove the stones, fill
the hollows with the chestnuts, and lay them in a lined,
rather shallow, stewpan ; strain the above sauce carefully
over them, and simmer at the edge of the fire until hot
through. Cut a thick slice of bread, fry it in butter until
nicely browned, then drain, and scoop out the centre,
making a hollow large enough to hold the Olives. When
ready, put the Olives on the bread, jilace it on a hot dish,
garnish tastefully round with quarters of hard-boiled eggs,
pour the sauce round the bread, and serve while very hot.
OLIVE OIL. — When Olives are ripe they are gathered
and gently pressed, by which means the best quality of
oil is obtained. A stronger pressure is then applied,
which breaks the kernels, producing a second quality oil.
After settling, the bright oil is at once put into flasks
guarded by a covering of rushes, and the inferior quality
is exported in casks and jars. Italian Olive Oil, known
in the trade as Florence. Lucca, or Gallipoli, is the best ;
but there can be no doubt that all retailed to us as
Italian does not come from Italy. See Salad-oil.
OLLA-FODKIDA. — The literal meaning of this
Spanish compound word is olla — a pot, and podrida —
rotten. It is applied to a kind of stew consisting of
many things which it is supposed can only be obtained
in Spain. Ford, in his “ Handbook of Spain,” says of
it : “ The Olla is only well made in Andalusia, and there
alone in careful, well-appointed houses ; it is called a
puchero in the rest of Spain, where it is but a poor
affair.” He then gives the following directions for
making it, to which two other receipts by famous cooks
have been added :
(1) It may be made in one pot. but two are better.
They must be of earthenware, like the French pot-au-feu.
Put them on separate stoves with water in them. Place in
No. 1 garbangos (chick-peas) which have been soaked over-
night. Add a gord piece of beef, a chicken, a large piece
of bacon, and let it boil once and quickly; then let it simmer :
it requires four or five hours to be well done. Meanwhile
Olla-podrida — continued.
place into No. 2, with water, whatever vegetables are to be
had — lettuces, cabbage, a slice of gourd, carrots, beans,
celery, endive, onions, and garlic, with beef and long peppers.
These must be previously well washed and cut, as if they
were destined to make a salad. Then add red sausages
(chorizos), and half a pig’s face salted, which should have
been soaked overnight. When all is sufficiently boiled strain
off the water. Remember constantly to skim the scum off
both saucepans. When all are ready, take a large dish, lay
in the bottom the vegetables, the beef in the centre,
flanked by the bacon, chicken, and pig’s face. The sausages
should be arranged around en couronne. Pour over some
of the soup of No. 1, and serve hot.
(2) Put some lentils or haricot beans to soak overnight,
and in the morning drain and put them in a large earthen-
ware jar with 4lb. of beef, half that quantity of bacon, and
an old fowl ; pour in sufficient water to cover these ingre-
dients, and simmer gently at the side of the fire for four
hours. Prepare and wash a sufficient quantity of cabbages,
lettuces, carrots, turnips, onions, and celery, put them in
another large jar with half a salted and well-soaked pig’s
head, and a few chillies ; cover the vegetables with water
and stew them the same time as the meats. When cooked,
drain the vegetables, and place them round a very large
hot dish ; put the pig’s head in the centre with the bacon,
fowl, and meat, strain the meat liquor over them, and serve.
(3) Put 1 pint of chick-peas in a basin of warm water
and soak them for several hours ; blanch Alb. of raw ham
and 41b. of smoked streaky bacon. When soft, drain the
chick-peas and put them in an earthenware stockpot with
the ham and bacon, 61b. of brisket of beef, and the knuckle
end of a leg of mutton. Cover these ingredients well with
cold water, place the stockpot over the lire until the liquid
boils, then move it to the side ; skim well, and keep sim-
mering gently. In two hours’ time add a small chicken, a
partridge, three carrots, two onions, a snee of gourd,
a bunch of parsley tied together with two bay-leaves, and
cook for an hour longer ; then put in small smoked
sausages, and simmer for three hours longer, carefully taking
out each piece of meat as it is cooked. At the end of that
time, strain the liquor through a fine hair sieve into a
stewpan, skim it well, put in 1 breakfast-cupful of rice,
and boil until tender. Cut the beef into slices, place it on
an oval-shaped dish, put the fowl at one end, the partridge
at the other, aud the bacon and ham on each side ; cut
the sausages into slices, place them round the dish, and
garnish with braised lettuces (see Fig. 25). Pour the
sou]) into a tureen and serve with the meat. Tomato
sauce can be eaten with the meats if liked.
OMEIBiE. — A beverage prepared in some parts of
Africa by fermenting milk. It is a thick, sub-acid,
viscous fluid.
OMELETS (Fr. Omelettes ; Ger. Eierkuclien ; Ital.
Frittate; Sp. Tortillas). — Although every country has
its representative for Omelets, it is doubtful if the
dish is not better known throughout the Continent
under its French name than it is in England. The
derivation of the word, however, is wrapped in mystery,
some etymologists inclining towards oeufs meles ; but
this is declared by others to be impracticable, the de-
rivation given by them being if anything still more
impracticable. Professor Skeat says the word Omelet is
“ derived from the old French amelette, but this again was
preceded by the forms alemette and alemelle. The sense
For details respecting Culinary Processes, U tensilsf Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
21
Omelots — co ntinued .
of alemelle was a thin plate (still preserved in the
French alumelle) sheathing of a ship.” Roquefort gives
the old French alemele — blade of a knife ; thus the
Omelet was named from its shape, that of a “thin
plate, of metal.”
Soyer says : “ Where is the man or woman cook but
say they know how to make an Omelet, and that
to perfection ?” But this is rarely the case. It is
related of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, that no one
could cook a “fraise,” as it was then called, for the
great Duke but herself. The great point is, if an iron
pan is used it should be very clean and free from
damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when
placed on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire ]
with a little fat, and let it get quite hot, or until the I
fat burns ; remove it, wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and
then you will be able to make the Omelet to perfection.
A small round frying-pan not larger than a pudding-
plate is best for making an Omelet, and the bottom
should be kept moist with butter, which is better than
either lard or dripping. The batter should be mixed
some hours before being wanted, and then just whisked
up again. Many receipts will be found throughout this
Encyclopaedia for different kinds of Omelets, savoury
and sweet, as well as the following:
(1) Beat eight eggs well in a basin with a little water,
and season with pepper and salt. Melt a large piece of
butter in a frying-pan, pour the beaten eggs in, and stand
it at the side, but not on the fire, turning continually.
When the edges are done, gather them together, and roll
the Omelet over (the middle should be soft) ; dish up, and
serve hot.
(2) Beat eight eggs in a basin with a little milk until
well frothed, and season with salt and pepper. Melt a
good-sized piece of butter in an Omelet-pan, pour in the
beaten eggs, and shake the pan while they are being
cooked to prevent them sticking. When the Omelet is
lightly coloured underneath, turn it quickly, adding a piece
more butter, and when done both sides, roll tip and serve.
(3) Crack twelve fresh eggs into a bowl, season them
with 1 pinch of salt and h pinch of white pepper, and
beat them well until the whites and yolks are thoroughly
mixed, or for fully four minutes. Heat 2 table-spoonfuis
of clarified butter in a small frying-pan on the hot range,
and when it crackles pour in the eggs, and stir well with
a fork for two minutes, then let it rest for half a minute.
Fold it up with the fork — the side nearest the handle first,
then the opposite side, so that both sides will meet in the
centre of the Omelet, and let it rest for half-a-minute
longer. Incline a hot dish with the left hand and the
frying-pan with the right at an angle towards each other,
then with a rapid turn of the wrist transfer the Omelet
by inverting the pan over the centre of the dish, and send
to table. The Omelet should be made on a very brisk
range, without removing the pan ; and should the pan be
very small it will require three minutes’ stirring, and
one minute’s rest before and half a minute’s rest after
folding.
Devonshire Omelet.— Beat the yolks and whites of eight
eggs separately till they turn almost white, and mix with
the yolks, a little at a time, £ pint of milk and 1 table-
spoonful of flour blended with a little milk; add also an !
onion peeled and cut in four, 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped
parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon-
juice. Then mix hi the whites and beat for five minutes.
Cover the bottom of a frying pan with melted fat, and
when it boils take the onion out of the Omelet and
pour half of it in, holding the pan slanting over the fire.
M hen the first Omelet is cooked, lay it on a hot dish,
and proceed quickly with the second.
roam Omelet. — Beat the yolks of six eggs well, and mix
smoothly with them 1 table-spoonful of arrowroot ; add 1
breakfast-cupful of milk and the well-whisked whites of
two eggs, and season to taste with salt and a small
quantity of grated nutmeg. Melt about 2oz. of butter
in an Omelet-pan, and put the Omelet mixture in it.
Omelets — continued.
Whisk the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth together
with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and when the
Omelet is cooked, pile the frothed eggs on the top of it
(see Fig. 20), and serve.
Friar’s Omelet. — (1) Peel and core some large apples, cut
them into slices, and boil them in a small quantity of
water. When soft, stir in 4oz. each of butter and
caster sugar, turn all into a pie-dish, and leave till cold.
Beat four eggs well, mix them with the apples, and
cover the top with stale grated breadcrumb. Bake the
Omelet in a good oven, and when nicely browned take
it out, sift some caster sugar over, and serve.
(2) Beat up four eggs thoroughly, mix with them 1
teacupful of thick cream, and season with a small quantity
of salt and a few finely-minced chives. Melt about 2oz.
of butter in an Omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, put the
lid over with some hot coals on the top, and leave until
well risen. When cooked, turn the Omelet on to a hot
dish, and serve quickly.
German Omelet. — (1) Put 1 teacupful of finely-sifted flour
into a basin, and mix in gradually with it the beaten
yolks of six eggs and | pint of cream or milk : season
with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat the
whites of three eggs to a stiff foam, then mix them with
the above ingredients, pass the whole through a fine hair
sieve, and add 1 teaspoonful of chopped chives. Put jib.
of butter in an Omelet-pan, make it hot, then pour in
half of the batter, spreading it out thinly over the bottom.
Prick the Omelet in one or two places with a fork, and
as soon as it is set on the one side turn it quickly, pour-
ing in some more butter, which has first been melted.
When cooked and nicely coloured, roll the Omelet round,
and place it on a hot dish. Proceed as before with the
remainder of tire batter, and when cooked place it on the
dish beside the other, and serve.
(2) Put the yolks of two eggs in a basin, together with
1 teaspoonful each of flour and potato-flour and 1 table-
spoonful of milk or cream. Beat the ingredients together
till well mixed, then pour in gradually 1 teacupful of boiling
milk, taking care to keep the mixture smooth. Sweeten
to taste with caster sugar, and flavour with a few drops
of extract of vanilla. Beat the whites of two eggs to a
stiff froth and mix them with the Omelet batter. Lightly
rub some plates over with butter, pour the mixture into
them, put them in a brisk oven, and bake for about ten
minutes or until set. When cooked, mask the Omelets
with some preserve, fold them over, place them on a hot
dish, and serve. The preserve may be omitted and caster
sugar sifted over instead, after folding.
Mexican Omelet. —Put 1 pint of veloute sauce into a sauce-
pan, place it on a moderate fire, add a piece of lobster
butter about the size of an egg, together with twenty-four
cooked and skinned shrimps, and season with £ pinch of
salt and a very little pepper. Cook for three minutes,
stirring lightly, then add half a good-sized, emptied and
peeled green pepper, finely hashed ; cook for two minutes
longer, then let it rest on the corner of the stove. Make
an Omelet with twelve eggs, as described for Omelets,
(No. 3), fold up the side farthest from the handle of the pan,
pour half of the preparation in the centre, fold the other side
over, and turn the Omelet on to a hot dish ; garnish both
sides with the rest of the shrimps, pouring the remainder
of the sauce, &c., round the dish, and serve very hot.
Omelet Celestine. — Pound six macaroons, put them in a
bowl, adding 3 table-spoonfuls of apple jelly and 1 table-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils Sauces, d-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
22
Omelets — continued.
spoonful of whipped cream, and mix well with the spatula.
Make a sweet Omelet with twelve eggs, fold over the side
opposite to the handle of the pan, pour the mixture into
the centre, fold the other side over, and turn the Omelet out
on to a hot dish. Sprinkle the top with 3 table-spoonfuls
of powdered sugar, glaze the Omelet with a hot shovel or
Fig. 27. Omelet Celestine.
salamander, and decorate it with some lady’s fingers cut
into halves, also 1 teacupful of whipped cream, the latter
poured into a paper funnel and piped over in any design.
See Fig. 27.
Omelet with. Fine Herbs. — Break two eggs into a basin,
mix in a shallot, a little each of thyme, marjoram, basil,
chervil, and parsley, and sprinkle in a very little pepper.
Melt loz. of butter in a pan on the fire, tossing the latter
so as to let the butter go all over it, and taking care that
it does not burn; when it is at boiling-point, pour in
the Omelet mixture and fry to a golden brown.
Omelet Souffle. — (1) An Omelet sou file is one of the most
delicious of hot sweets. It is not difficult to make when
its principles are understood, and yet it is seldom well
made by inexperienced cooks. The true Omelet souffle
contains only eggs, sugar, and the chosen flavouring ; and
a tin-lined copper souffle-pan, or a thick enamelled metal
dish, which will quickly heat and remain hot for some
time after being taken from the oven, is required for
cooking it. Spread the pan with cold butter, and see that
the oven is quite hot before the Omelet is made. Put the
yolks of three eggs, 6 piled table-spoonfuls of powdered
loaf sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of any flavouring essence or
cordial into a quart bowl, and beat them to a smooth
cream ; then beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth,
and quickly and lightly add the yolks and sugar. This
part of the operation requires a quick, deft hand. The
yolks should be poured on the centre of the whites, and
then cut down through, rather than beaten or stirred, by
holding the spoon in the right hand with the bowl outward
and cutting down into the whites with its edge ; an inward
and upward turn of the right wrist will bring the spoon
out again on the top of the whites. Itepeat this cutting
down and turning motion rapidly and lightly until the
Omelet is mixed ; then as rapidly and lightly put the
Omelet into the pan in which it is to be baked, dust it
over with powdered sugar, place it in the oven, and bake
until it is delicately browned (it will take about ten minutes
if the oven is moderately hot). Do not begin to make the
souffle until about twenty minutes before it is needed. It
Fig. 28. Omelet Souffle
must not be allowed to stand after it is done, but must
be sent to the table directly it is taken from the oven,
slipping the souffle-pan on a hot dish covered with a folded
napkin. See Fig. 28.
(2) Separate the whites and yolks of six eggs, put the
yolks into a bowl, add to them 1 table-spoonful of arrow-
root or potato-flour, 6oz. of crushed loaf sugar, and a little
Omelets— continued.
each of grated lemon-peel and orange-flower water. Beat
well until a batter is formed, and stir in the whites
whipped to a stiff froth. Melt jib. of butter in an Omelet-
pan, pour the batter into it, and stir very carefully with
a spoon until it begins to set firm. Turn the Omelet on
to an inverted dish or plate, put it into a moderately hot
oven, and bake for from ten to fifteen minutes. It is then
ready for serving, and should be quite light and puffy.
(3) French. — Melt loz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in
2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and continue stirring over the
fire until the flour is thoroughly cooked but not dis-
coloured. Pour in slowly % teacupful of boiling cream,
2 teacupfuls of boiling milk, and work it until quite
smooth ; remove from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs,
sugar to taste, 1 table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and
a very little salt. Whisk the whites of eight eggs to a
stiff froth, mix them lightly in with the batter, turn all
into a souffle-dish, and bake for an hour. If is then ready
for serving, and can be flavoured with maraschino, noyau,
or any other desired flavouring.
Omelet flavoured with Vanilla. — (1) Put the yolks of three
eggs in one basin and the whites in another ; mix in
loz. of caster sugar and 3 or 4 drops of vanilla essence
with the yolks, and whip the whites to a stiff froth. Put
loz. of butter into an Omelet-pan, melt it, and make it
quite hot ; pour in the yolks, let them set, then put on the
whipped whites, and continue to cook until the yolks are
quite done. Serve hot with jam or any wine sauce.
(2) Proceed as above, only masking the Omelet with jam
before adding the whites.
Savoury Omelet. — (1) Beat the yolks of six eggs till they
are almost white, then beat the whites for the same length
of time, and pour them over the yolks ; add 1 dessert-
spoonful of chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful of mixed
herbs, 1 dessert spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, pepper
and salt to taste, a few drops of lemon- juice, 6 table-
spoonfuls of milk, and 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, and beat all
well together for at least five minutes. Peel a small onion,
slice it into four, and fry it in butter ; when the butter is
boiling hot, take out the onion and pour in the Omelet.
Hold the pan over a clear fire, in rather a slanting posi-
tion, to keep the Omelet from spreading, and when fried
a light brown fold it over with a slice, and serve very hot.
A little grated tongue may be mixed with the Omelet if
liked.
(2) Beat five eggs thoroughly with a fork, and season
them with salt and pepper. Put 2oz. of butter int > a frying-
pan, put it over the fire until hot, then pour in the eggs,
and stir them until set. Raise the pan slantwise so as to
slip the Omelet to the edge and give it an elongated shape,
turn in the edges, leave it a moment to set, then put it
on a hot dish which has been embellished with an orna-
mental dish-paper, and serve.
(3) Chop a raw onion very fine, and put it in a saucepan
with loz. each of butter and small squares of salted pork,
and slightly ccok them, adding loz. each of scraps of very
finely-minced, cooked, roasted beef and ham, two finely-
chopped mushrooms, and 1 pinch of chopped parsley. Stir
in well 1 table-spoonful each of tomato sauce and grated
breadcrumb, and season with 1 pinch of pepper and £
pinch of salt. (Make a plain Omelet with twelve eggs as
described under Omelets (No. 3), fold up the side opposite
the handle towards the centre, fill with the above, fold
the other side over, turn it out on a hot dish, and serve.
Spanish Omelet.— Put a finely-slued onion, loz. of butter, a
chopped green pepper, six minced mushrooms, and one large,
finely cut up tomato into a stewpan on the stove ; season with
\ pinch of pepper and 1 pinch of salt, adding 1 spoonful of
tomato sauce, and cook for fifteen minutes. Make a plain
Omelet with twelve eggs as for Omelets (No. 3), fold the
farther side towards the centre, put three-quarters of the stew
inside of it, fold the other side over, turn out on to a long
dish, pour the rest of the sauce round, and serve.
Steamed Omelet. — Put the yolks of three eggs in one basin
and the whites in another, and well whisk the latter. Mix
loz. of sugar with the yolks, and about one-third the quantity
with the whites. Well grease a basin, pour in the yolks and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, the., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
23
Onions — continued.
Omelets — continued.
whites, cover with oiled paper, set the basin in a saucepan with
boiling water to half its height, put on the lid, and let it
steam for two or three minutes and no longer. Flavour
with 4 or 5 drops of essence of lemon, turn out on to a
dish, and serve quickly. Wine liquor or syrup should
accompany it.
Sweet Omelet.— (1) Put the whites and yolks of six eggs
into separate basins. Beat the yolks with 1 teacupful of
cream and 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar ; then heat
the whites to a stiff froth, mix them with the yolks, and
fry the Omelet in boiling butter. When done, spread a
layer of any kind of jam over the top, fold one half of the
Omelet over the other, sprinkle with caster sugar, and serve
on a folded napkin on a dish.
(2) Beat up eight eggs, and add a little finely-chopped
lemon-peel and a little caster sugar. Melt a good-sized piece
of butter in a flying- or Omelet-pan, pour the beaten egg inf
and fry both sides a light brown. Have ready a hot dish well
sprinkled with caster sugar, score the Omelet in lines like
a herring-bone by holding a red hot poker close to it, dish,
sprinkle caster sugar over, and serve.
(3) Beat six eggs thoroughly with 2oz. of caster sugar,
and when well frothed mix with them 2oz. of butter broken
into small pieces. Put about 2oz. of butter into an Omelet-
pan, place it on the fire, and when it boils pour in the
mixture and stir until it sets. Next, turn the edges of
the Omelet over till it forms an oval shape, and brown the
top under a salamander. Put it on a hot dish, sift caster
sugar over, and serve.
of Onions known to horticulturists are exceedingly
numerous. Spring Onions, or those which have merely
begun to grow, are much favoured in salads. Sydney
Smith wrote of these :
Let Onion’s atoms lurk within the bowl.
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole.
ONIONS (Fr. Oignons; Ger. Zwiebeln; Ital.
Cipolle : Sp. Cebollas). — Of all the seasonings or flavour-
ings with which the cook is acquainted, there is not
one, with the exception of salt, which holds so prominent
a position; the object of the artistic cook being, whilst
Fia. 31.
James’s Keeping.
Fig. 32.
Naples Giant Rocca.
When grown to bulbs, Onions form an indispensable
component of such savouries as stews, soups, and sauces,
which led Dean Swift to write :
Fig. 29. Deep Blood-red Onions.
accepting the flavour, to so conceal or disguise it that its
extreme pungency is imperceptible. The Onion (Allium
Cepa) belongs to the tribe of lilies, but is readily dis-
tinguished from the sweet-scented flowers by the odour
of the bulbs, which is so peculiar as to be almost
Fig. 30. Early White Naples Onions.
offensive until dealt with by culinary artists. To this
tribe belong Chives, Garlic, Leeks, Rocambole of
Denmark, and Shallots, all of which are treated under
their special headings. In spite of this the varieties
This is every cook’s opinion —
No savoury dish without an Onion;
But lest your kissing should be spoiled,
Your Onions should be thoroughly boiled.
Onions of a very small kind are much used for pickling ;
these are commonly known as Silver-skinned.
Of other kinds not much used, we have the Underground
or Potato Onion, supposed to be a variety of the
Fig. 33. Queen Onions.
common Onion, which has the singular property of
multiplying itself by the formation of young bulbs on
the parent root, producing a crop below the surface of
the ground. As with all other Onions, their origin is
uncertain, probably coming from the Bast, where they
are very great favourites.
In Canada there is an Onion known as the Bulb-
bearing Tree Onion; it is very likely a variety of the
common Tree Onion, which it resembles in appearance.
“ It differs,” Lindley informs us, “ in its flower stem
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Jkc., referred to, see under their special heads.
24
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Onions — continued.
Onions — continued.
being surmounted by a cluster of small green bulbs
instead of bearing flowers and seed. These bulbs are
very similar to small Onions, and are said to be excel-
lent in pickles, for which their diminutive size is a
great recommendation.”
The Welsh Onion, better known as the Rock Onion
or Stone Leek, is not much used for culinary purposes.
There are over twenty sorts of Onions that may be
considered distinct, and forms of one or other of these
are named as new kinds by growers almost indefinitely.
The principal varieties are here enumerated.
Brown Globe, medium size, skin dark reddish-brown ;
Deep Blood Red (see Fig. 29), medium-size, flattened, strong-
flavoured, skin red ; Deptford, solid, flesh tinged red, skin
dark reddish-brown ; Early White Naples (see Fig. 30),
small : Flat Tripoli, large, mild, flesh reddish ; Giant White
Tripoli, large, flattened, skin silvery white ; Globe Tripoli,
mild; James’s Keeping (see Fig. 31), one of the best and
longest-keeping ; Lisbon, useful for spring salads ; Naples
Fig. 35. White Spanish Onions.
Giant Rocca (see Fig. 32), large, of good quality ; Queen
(see Fig. 33), small and very early, skin white ; Silver-
skin, useful for pickling ; Trebons (see Fig. 34), very
large, mild and excellent in quality; True-bladed, small,
much used for pickling ; Wethersfield Red, large, perhaps
the best of all the red-skinned varieties; White Globe,
medium size, much esteemed ; White Spanish (see Fig. 35),
Fig. 36. Yellow Danvers Onion.
large, solid, of first rate quality, skin pale straw-colour ;
Yellow Danvers (see Fig. 36), medium size, very firm, of
fine quality throughout.
Baked Onions. — Put six large Onions into a saucepan of
water or milk and water in equal proportions, sprinkle
over salt .and pepper, and boil until tender. When they
are done so that they can he easily mashed, work them
up with butter into a paste, cover with breadcrumbs, and
bake in a moderate oven. Or if preferred, they may be
boiled whole, put into a baking-dish, covered with butter
and breadcrumbs, and then baked.
Baked Spanish Onions. — Wash some Onions, but do not
remove their skins ; put them in a saucepan of slightly-
salted water, and boil for an hour, changing the water
twice and adding the fresh water when it is boiling.
Take them out, drain them, dry on a cloth, roll each one
separately round with a piece of buttered tissue paper,
and bake for an hour or so in a slow oven. Then remove
the peel, and put them in a deep dish in the oven to
brown, basting with butter. When done (they will take
about fifteen minutes), put them in a vegetable-dish,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over some melted
butter, and serve.
Baked Stuffed Onions. — Select large Onions as nearly one
size .as possible; peel them, put them in a saucepan of
boiling water, and boil for fifteen minutes; then drain, and
scoop out a small quantity from the inside of each. Have
ready prepared sufficient highly-seasoned beef forcemeat
that has been mixed with a beaten egg to bind it, stuff'
the Onions with it, arrange them side by side on a baking-
dish, and bake in a brisk oven until nicely browned, bast-
ing them occasionally with warmed butter. When cooked,
place the Onions on a dish on which has been laid
an ornamental dish-paper, and serve while hot.
Baked Stuffed Spanish Onions. — Peel six medium-sized
Spanish Onions, take out the centres with a vegetable-
scoop, parboil them for three minutes, and turn them
upside-down on a cloth to drain; when drained, fill the
insides with sausage forcemeat. Line the bottom of a saute -
pan with a piece of lard-skin and one carrot and Onion
both cut up, lay the Onions on top, moisten with 4 pint
of broth, and cover with buttered paper ; put it in the oven
to glaze for forty minutes, taking care to baste frequently.
For details respectinj Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Sic., referred to, see under their special heads.
Soups and Sauces Department, showing large Central Stove, Heated partly by Gas and partly hy Fuel, Stockpots, Stewpans, and Bain-marie; Hot-closets and Ovens at fad
end, Lift on the Left, and Perpendicular Boiler for Steam Supply on the Right.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
25
Onions — continued.
Place the Onions in a hot dish, strain the gravy over
them, and serve.
Boiled Onions.— (1) Put some Onions in a saucepan with
sufficient milk and water in equal quantities to cover them,
and boil until quite tender. Place them on a dish, pour
over butter sauce, and serve ; or they may be finely
chopped, and stewed with milk, butter, and a little salt.
(2) Remove the skin from some Onions, put them into
a saucepan, and pour over sufficient water to cover. Put
the pan on the fire, and boil quickly until they are soft ;
drain off the water, add sufficient milk to make a sauce,
stir in a little butter, sprinkle over salt and pepper to
taste, put them on a dish, and serve hot.
Boiled Onions ■with Cream. — Peel twelve medium-sized
Onions, pare the roots without cutting them, and place
them in a saucepan ; cover with salted water, add a bouquet
garni, and cook for forty-five minutes. Lift them from
the saucepan, and lay them on a dish ; cover with J pint
of cream sauce mixed with 2 table-spoonfuls of the broth
the Onions were cooked in, garnish with parsley (see Fig. |
37), and serve.
Boiled Spanisli Onions. — Put the required number of
Spanish Onions into a saucepan of salted water, boil them
for thirty minutes, then' take them out, drain, and put
them into another pan with a little butter or dripping ;
sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and stew gently for
about three hours, with the cover on the pan to prevent
the steam escaping. They should be occasionally basted
with the dripping, and care must be taken that they
do not burn in cooking.
Burnt Onions. — Peel til), of Onions, put them into a sauce-
pan with 1 breakfast-cupful of water, and cook for five
minutes. Add tlb. of moist sugar, and simmer gently
until the mixture is almost black. Pour in 1 gill of boiling
vinegar, stirring well with a wooden spoon, and it is then
ready for use. It may be poured into bottles and kept if
required.
Dressed Raw Onions. —Peel some Onions, cut them in
slices, chop them fine, put them into water with a very
little salt, and let them soak for an hour or so. Take
them out, drain, put them on a dish, and pour over
a mixture of J gill of vinegar, 2 table-spoonfuls each of
made mustard, chilli vinegar, and sugar, and 1 table-
spoonful of salt. Put a lump of ice on the top, and garnish
the dish with curled parsley. If the parsley is eaten after
the onions, it is supposed to take the smeli from them.
Fried Minced Onions. — Peel three medium-sized Spanish
Onions, cut them in halves, and then into fine slices. Put
them in a saute -pan with 4oz. of butter, and let them
get a good golden colour on the stove for ten minutes, I
tossing them briskly. Place them in a bowl, and use as
required.
Fried Onions. — (1) Peel, and slice into even rounds, four
medium-sized Onions. Lay them first in milk, then in
flour, and fry in very hot fat for eight minutes. Lift
them up, and lay them on a cloth to dry. Serve on a
dish with a folded napkin, with a little fried parsley.
(2) Peel and wash some Onions, chop them small, put
them in a frying-pan with sufficient water to cover, and
cook gently until all the moisture has dried up. Then
add a slice of fat pork and a little salt and pepper, and
fry them until quite brown, when they are ready for use.
Fried Onions with. Foached Eggs. — Peel six large Onions,
slice them finely, dust over with cayenne, put them into
a frying-pan with a small quantity of butter, and fry.
Onions — continued.
Take them out, drain them, dry before the fire, place in a
dish, and squeeze over sufficient lemon -juice to saturate
Fig. 38. Fried Onions with Poached Eggs.
them and give them a very acid flavour. Poach six eggs,
place them on the Onions (see Fig. 38), and serve hot.
Fried Onions and Rice on Toast. — Wash lib. of rice, tie
it loosely in a cloth, put it into a saucepan of boiling
water, and boil until tender, but not to a pulp. 5\ hen
cooked, drain the rice well in a colander. Peel and slice
three or four Onions, melt a lump of butter in a
frying-pan, put in the Onions, fry them till beginning to
brown, then put in the rice, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and stir it about until very hot. Toast three or
four slices of bread, butter them, and lay them on a hot
dish ; turn the rice mixture on to them, squeeze a small
quantity of lemon -juice over, and serve.
Fried Spanisli Onions. — Peel and slice 21b. of Spanish
Onions, put them into a frying-pan containing 2 piled table-
spoonfuls of butter made smoking hot over the fire, season
with 1 table-spoonful of salt and J saltspoonful oi
pepper, dust them very lightly with a little cayenne, and
stir over the fire until they are tender. When done, servo
them on toast, pouring the gravy they yield in cooking
over them.
Fried Stuffed Spanish Onions. —Peel and boil four Spanish
Onions whole; when they are tender, scoop out the centres
and fill them with forcemeat. Fry them a light brown, and
serve with good brown gravy poured over them.
Glazed Onions. -(1) Remove the skin from some Onions and
put them into a saucepan with a little warmed butter;
add sugar and salt to taste, and pour over a little stock.
Place the pan over the fire and simmer gently until they
are quite tender and the outside brown, then take them out
and serve on a dish. A little of the liquor thickened with
flour may be served as a sauce.
(2) Take off the skins from some small Onions, having
them as nearly as possible of a uniform size; arrange them
in a saucepan with a little butter, putting them close
together, sprinkle over a little salt, pepper, and sugar, and
add sufficient water to moisten them. Cover the Onions
over with a piece of well-buttered paper, and cook over a
quick fire until the liquor is reduced to half its original
quantity, and of a thick glaze. Put the Onions on a dish,
add a little Spanish sauce to the liquor, skim off' all the
fat, and strain it over the Onions.
(3) Take forty young Onions, about the size of walnuts,
remove the skins, put them into a saucepan, with loz. each
of butter and sugar, and toss over the fire to give them a
light coating. Pour in sufficient stock to cover, and cook
gently until they are done and quite tender. Take them
out, drain them on a cloth, and arrange on a border of
mashed potatoes. Skim the liquor, reduce it to a glaze,
stir in a little butter, pour it over them, and serve. Care
must be taken that the skins do not burst in cooking.
Onions au Gratin. -Peel some large Spanish Onions and
cut them into rather thick slices ; butter a baking-dish,
lay the slices of Onions on it, dust over with salt and
pepper, baste with a few table-spoonfuls of warmed butter,
and bake them in a brisk oven until lightly browned. When
rather soft, cover the Onions with grated Parmesan cheese;
put them again in the oven until the cheese has melted,
then place them on a hot dish, and serve.
Onion Cake.- Peel five or six large Onions, cut them into
halves, boil them for fifteen minutes, drain, and chop them
finely together with a small lump of 1 (utter. Beat two eggs
and mix with them 4 table-spoonfuls of cold mashed
potatoes, 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of chopped ham, about 1
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Satices, dc., referred to, see under their special heads.
26
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Onions — continued.
teaspoonful of caraway -seeds, and 1 teacupful of milk.
Mix in the chopped Onions, and season to taste with salt
and pepper. Butter a large shallow tin, line it with good
short-paste, spread the mixture over it, and hake the cake
in a brisk oven. When cooked, lift it out of the tin, put
it on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, and serve while hot.
Onions with Cream. — (1) Select a dozen small sound Onions
and cook them in salted water until quite tender. Mix 1
table-spoonful of butter with a little hour in a saucepan,
put in the Onions, and dust over with salt and pepper.
Pour in 1 gill of cream, and cook for a few minutes longer.
Stir well, turn out on to a dish, and serve hot.
(2) Boil twelve fine silver-skiuned Onions, changing the
water several times in order to make the flavour milder.
Take them up when sufficiently cooked and peel them ;
then dry in a cloth, and when sufficiently cool to touch, cut
them in slices, put them into a baking-dish, mixing with
them lib. of sifted breadcrumbs, a seasoning of salt and
pepper, 4oz. of butter, and lastly i pint of cream or milk.
Put the dish into a moderate oven, and bake for three-
quarfcers-of-an-hour. Serve very hot.
Onion Farfel. — Beat an egg in 1 teacupful of water, then stir
in rapidly with a fork Jib. of flour and a small quantity of
salt. Peel and cut into thin slices the required quantity
of Onions, put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter,
and fry them until soft and browned. Stir the farfel paste in
with the Onions, and continue stirring it over the fire for
five or six minutes. Put a handful of parsley and a lump
of salt into a saucepan of boiling water, turn the farfel
into it, and boil for ten minutes. When cooked, drain
through a sieve, turn it on to a hot dish, and serve.
Onion Garnish for Fricassee. — Chop off a thin slice from
both ends of a couple of dozen large Onions, put them
into lqt. of boiling water, and blanch for ten minutes. Take
them out, drain, and when they are cold remove the yellow
and first white skins. Put them into a saucepan with
3 breakfast-cupfuls of water and 1 teaspoonful each of salt
and sugar; boil gently until done, take them out, drain,
and they are ready for use. They should be put into the
fricassee at least five minutes before serving.
Onion Gruel. — Put four large Onions cut into slices in a
saucepan with 2oz. of fine oatmeal, and pour over lqt. of
cold water. Place the pan over a clear fire and boil the
Onions gently for about five hours. Stir frequently, and
add a little more water now and then, so as to keep up the
original quantity. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve
into a bowl or basin, sprinkle in a little sauce, and serve
with pieces of toasted bread. The yolk of an egg well
beaten and stirred in is an improvement.
Onion Juice. — (1) This is obtained by removing the outer
skin from Onions, grating them on a coarse grater, and
using strong pressure to squeeze out the juice, which can
be collected and strained, or clarified.
(2) Pound the Onions in a mortar together with a little
water, squeeze out the juice through muslin into bottles,
and cork down tightly. The addition of a little fresh garlic
is considered an improvement.
Onion Fickle. — (1) Take large white Onions, skin and trim
them, and then pour boiling salted water over and let
them stand for three days. At the end of this time strain
oft' the brine, pour fresh over them, boiling as before, and
let them stand for another three days. Put 2qts. of
vinegar over the fire in a lined pan with loz. of turmeric
tied in thin muslin, let it scald for a few minutes, and
pour it over the Onions boiling hot. Cover them close,
and let them stand for ten days or a fortnight, then take
them out and drop them into a jar or jars containing the
following mixture : Pound well together i pint of black
mustard-seed well beaten, 2oz. of white ginger, ljoz. each
of black pepper and allspice, loz. each of cloves and mace,
and put them into a large jar, together with 1 table-spoon-
ful of scraped horseradish, 1 dessert-spoonful of garlic, lib.
of sugar, Aoz. of celery-seed bruised, and a lemon and a
half cut in thin slices and the pips picked out; pour over
this lgall. of vinegar.
Onions — continued.
(2) Bombay. — Take off the outer peel from as many
small round Onions as required, dry them well, put them
into a saucepan, cover with vinegar, and parboil them.
Take out the Onions with a skimmer, put them into wide-
mouthed bottles in layers, alternating with finely-sliced
green ginger, fresh red chillies, black peppercorns, and a
little salt. Fill up with fresh vinegar, cork down securely,
and the pickle is then ready for use.
Onion Pie. — Peel and chop six large Onions, put them in
a saucepan with a lump of salt and water to cover them,
and boil for a few minutes. Drain the Onions, chop them,
put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and
stir about over the fire until the moisture has somewhat
evaporated. Beat four eggs ; move the Onions off the fire,
mix in the eggs, then place them over the fire again,
and stir for two or three minutes with a wooden spoon,
but without allowing them to boil. Sift 1 Jib. of flour on
to a paste-board and mix in 1 teaspoonful of salt, then
stir in four beaten eggs and sufficient water to make a
soft, flexible paste. Knead the mixture well with the
hands, dipping them now and then in warmed butter.
Divide the paste into pieces the size of a small egg, dust
them over with wheat-starch, and roll them out as thin
as possible. Butter a baking-tin, the same in diameter as
the pieces of paste, lay in five, one over the other, baste
them with a few table-spoonfuls of warmed butter, then
place over those five more, which also baste with butter,
and proceed thus until half of the pieces are used.
Spread the Onion mixture over the paste, then lay the
remaining pieces of paste on the top, baste the pie well
with butter, and bake it in a moderate oven. When
cooked and nicely browned, cut the pie in four crosswise,
and serve.
Onion Puree.— (1) Boil the required quantity of Onions for
a few minutes in salted water, then drain and chop them.
Melt a large lump of butter in a stewpan, put in the
Onions with plenty of caster sugar, season to taste with
salt and pepper, and stir them over the fire until nicely
browned. Next dredge in a little flour, and add a small
quantity of clear stock, being careful not to make it too
liquid, and stew gently until quite tender. When very
soft, mash the Onions through a fine hair sieve, return
them to the stewpan, and stir over the fire until hot again.
Turn them on to a dish, and serve.
(2) Peel some Onions and boil them in salted water for
ten minutes, then drain, and chop them. Put 2oz. of
butter in a saucepan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, and
mix them over the fire. Put in the Onions, season them
to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of sugar,
and moisten with a few table-spoonfuls of milk. Stew the
Onions gently until quite tender, but do not let them brown
at all. When ready, pass the Onions through a fine hair
sieve, return them to the saucepan, and mix with them a
small piece of butter. Stir over the fire for a few minutes,
then turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
Onion Puree a la Bretonne. Peel and blanch the required
quantity of Onions, putting them into cold water to cool,
so that they will retain their colour. Drain, put them
into a frying-pan with a little butter, dust them over with
salt and sugar, place the pan over a clear fire, and fry
until they are of a light red colour ; pour in some Spanish
sauce and reduce. Pass the whole through a fine sieve,
mix in with it a little warmed butter and meat glaze,
and serve.
Onion Puree d. la Soubise— (1) Remove the peel from a
dozen Onions, blanch and drain them, put them into a
saucepan with enough chicken broth to cover, and simmer
gently until the Onions are done, but without allowing
them to take colour. Pour in t paint of bechamel sauce,
reduce it, and pass the whole through a fine hair sieve.
Stir in a little butter and chicken glaze, and serve.
(2) Peel and chop about two dozen Onions and warm
them in a frying-pan with a little butter, but without
allowing them to take colour. Mix in 3 table spoonfuls of
puree of white haricot beans and a small quantity of
grated nutmeg. Squeeze all through a fine sieve, and the
puree is ready for use.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
27
Onions — continued.
Onion Puree with. Fish. — Chop up four or five large
Onions, blanch them, and put them into a saucepan with
Jib. of butter ; sprinkle over a little salt, pepper, and sugar,
and fiy them till light brown. Work in a handful of flour
and moisten with fish broth prepared as follows : Clean a
couple of small fish such as tench, cut them in pieces, put
them into a saucepan with vegetables cut in slices and a
sprig of parsley, sprinkle with a little salt, and pour over
3<jts. of water and h pint of white wine. Boil for about
ten minutes, and strain the broth. Put the pan contain-
ing the Onions over a clear fire, boil up, remove it to the
side of the fire to simmer gently for thirty minutes, then
strain the liquor into another saucepan, thicken it with
the yolks of three eggs, put in the fillets of the fish, make
quite hot, pour all into a soup-tureen, and serve. The skin
must be removed from the fish before putting them in.
Onion Sauce. — (1) Peel the required number of Onions, and put
them in a saucepan of cold water ; when the water boils,
pour it off and add more boiling water, so as to take the
strength out of the Onions. Repeat this two or three
times more, and the Onions will be quite mild ; chop them
up, but not too small, and mix them with melted butter ;
or pound the Onions to a pulp, mix them with a little
cream sauce, and they are ready. Onion sauce is used
generally for roasted or boiled shoulder of mutton, tripe,
ducks, or rabbits.
(2) Peel some moderate-sized Onions, and partially boil
them for a few minutes ; drain and chop them, put them
into a stewpan with a lump of butter, season with salt
and pepper and a small quantity of sugar, and stew them
over a gentle fire until tender but not browned. Dredge
with 1 table spoonful of flour, and rub them through a
fine wire sieve. Return the Onion pulp to the stewpan,
stir in enough milk to make the required quantity of
sauce, place it over the fire until boiling, then serve.
(3) Peel and finely chop a large Onion, put it into a
stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry until lightly browned ;
pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of water or common stock,
season to taste with salt and pepper, and add a small
quantity of finely-minced parsley. Boil up the sauce, put
in a small piece of butter that has been kneaded with
flour, and let it simmer at the edge of the fire for two or
three minutes. It is then ready for serving.
(4) Peel and slice a few large Onions, put them into a
saucepan with a little butter, and stir over the fire until
they are of a light brown. Dust them with flour, poui-
over a little beef gravy, season with pepper and salt,
reduce this until moderately thick, rub all through a fine
sieve, squeeze hi a little lemon -juice, and the sauce is then
. ready for use. It is generally served with any kind of
roasted meats.
(5) Boil loz. of rice in water for ten minutes, then
drain it ; peel and partially boil a few finely-chopped Onions,
put them with the rice into a stewpan, add a large lump of
butter, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small
quantity of sugar. Toss the whole over a gentle fire until
the Onions are quite tender but not browned, mix in loz.
of grated Parmesan cheese, and pass the whole through a
fine hair sieve. Put the mixture back in the stewpan,'
add gradually sufficient milk or cream to make the
sauce, and stir it over the fire until boiling, when it will
be ready for serving.
Onion Sauce with Bacon.— Cut two or three rashers of
streaky bacon into small squares, put them in a stewpan,
and fry slowly for a few minutes ; then put in 4 table-spoon-
fuls of finely-chopped Onions, sift in 1 table-spoonful of flour,
and stir the whole over the fire until the Onions are of a
pale golden colour. Moisten the above ingredients with
1 wineglassful each of water and vinegar, season to taste
with sal-t and pepper, stir it over the fire, and boil for
ten minutes, then serve.
Onion Sauce for Boiled Fowl.— Peel and slice 1 pint of
Onions, put them in a saucepan over the fire with enough
milk to cover, and stew until tender ; then beat them to
a pulp with a fork, add a seasoning of salt and white
pepper, sufficient milk to form a sauce of the consistency
of cream, and 1 table-spoonful of butter.
Onions — continued.
Onion Sauce flavoured with Caraway-seed0-. — Peel and
cut into thin slices five or six moderate-sized Onions, put
them in a saucepan with 1 pint of clear broth and a few
caraway-seeds, and boil until tender. Work loz. of butter
in 1 table-spoonful of flour, put it in the sauce, season
to taste with salt, stir over the fire, and boil for a few
minutes. The sauce is then ready for serving.
Onion Sauce with Vinegar. — Peel three good-sized Onions,
mince them finely, put them in a saucepan with a lump
of butter, and fry over a brisk fire until brown. Sift 1
table-spoonful of flour over the Onions, pour in | pint of
water, season to taste with salt, pepper, and mustard, and
mix in sufficient vinegar to give it the desired acidity.
Stir the sauce over the fire and boil until quite smooth.
It is then ready for serving.
Onion Seasoning. -Peel and chop very fine half a dozen
Onions, put them into a saucepan with a very little cold
water, and let them stew till quite soft ; then rub them,
liquor and all, through a hair sieve. It is then fit to season any
sauces or made dishes in which Onion flavouring is desirable.
Onion Soup. — (1) Mix 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of oatmeal in
cold water until it is quite smooth, then pour in gradually
3 pints of the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been
boiled, turn all into a stewpan with several peeled and
chopped Onions, and cook until of the consistence of cream ;
or leave out the oatmeal, substitute wheat-flour, and stir it
into the soup while boiling ; a few minutes before serving-
add the yolks of two or three eggs, removing the pan from
the fire before putting them in.
(2) Peel a few Onions, chop them very fine, put them
into a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry gently until
they are slightly browned ; sprinkle in a little flour, and
fry until that is brown also. Pour in some stock or milk
and water, with salt and pepper to taste, simmer for a
few minutes longer, and serve with small pieces of toast.
The flour may be omitted if desired, and rice or vermicelli
added and cooked in the soup.
(3) Cut half-a-dozen large mild Onions into slices, and
put them in a saucepan with a pat of butter, salt, and
sugar, and fry them to a light colour. Sprinkle over some
flour, and pour in 3 pints of boiling water. Add a bay-
leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, and a little more salt, and
boil quickly for ten minutes. Put some slices of toasted
bread at the bottom of a soup-tureen, sprinkle them over
with pepper, thicken the soup with a liaison of the yolks
of six eggs, warm it up without letting it boil, add a little
butter in bits, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, pour it
over, and serve.
(4) German. — Peel and chop a sufficient quantity of large
Onions, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and
toss them over the fire until well browned. Pour in sufficient
water to make the souji, season to taste with salt, pepper,
and grated nutmeg, and boil gently for ten or fifteen
minutes. Break four eggs into a soup-tureen, beat them,
and pour the soup quickly over them, stirring at the same
time. Serve with a plate of sippets of toast.
Onion Stuffing- for Fowls. — Put a dozen small Onions into
a saucepan of water and boil them, changing the water
two or three times. Finely chop a small piece of boiled
pickled pork, and mince the Onions. Mix a few finely-
chopped sweet herbs with 1 table-spoonful of boiling
vinegar, add to this the well-beaten yolk of an egg, then
work in the pork and Onions, and the stuffing is ready.
It is usually employed for braised fowls.
Onion-and-Tomato Salad. — Choose half-a-dozen firm ripe
tomatoes of medium size, wipe them with a wet towel,
and cut them in slices about Jin. thick ; peel a medium-
sized Spanish Onion, and slice it very thin. Arrange the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
28
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Onions — continued.
sliced Onion and tomatoes in layers in a salad-bowl, and
pour over them a plain salad dressing made by mixing to-
gether 1 teacupful of salad-oil, 2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar,
£ teaspoonful of salt, and l saltspoonful of pepper. Use the
salad as soon as it has been made. Young green Onions
may be used for this salad. See Fig. 39.
Pickled Onions. — (1) Put the desired quantity of small
Onions into hot water, and then peel them ; when all are
done, put them into fresh salted water with a small piece
of alum in it, and leave them until the following day ;
drain oil the water, cover them with fresh, adding more
salt and alum, and leave them a day longer. After-
wards drain and put them into jars, placing in each jar
one or two blades of mace, one or two chillies, a few white
peppercorns, and a small quantity of horseradish. Pour in
sufficient vinegar to cover the Onions well, cork the
bottles, cover with parchment, tie them down, and keep
in a dry store-cupboard. In a month’s time the Onions
will be ready for eating.
(2) Select small round Onions, peel, and steep them in
strong salted water for four days, changing the water
two or three times. Wipe them quite dry, lay them in
a jar, pour scalding milk over them, and let them remain
until the milk is cold. Drain the Onions, wipe each one
separately on a dry cloth, put them into jars, and pour
over as much white wine vinegar that has been boiled and
mixed with white pepper as will cover them well. Tie
them over first with wet bladder and then with leather,
and keep the jars in a dry store-cupboard.
(3) Remove the peels from lqt. of Onions, put them into
a basin of salted water, let them remain for a day, and
then change the water, adding a small quantity of alum to
it. Take them out, drain, put them into jars with a little
mace, chillies, white peppercorns, and horseradish, and cover
well with vinegar. Let them remain for six months,
pour off the vinegar, add fresh, and, if required, a few
more peppercorns; tie the jars over with bladder, and in a
few days’ time the pickle will be fit for use.
(4) Peel lgall. of large Onions, cut them in slices, and
sprinkle with salt; put them into jars, equally distribute
over them twelve sliced dry or green capsicums, and loz.
each of cloves, peppercorns, and allspice. Fill up the jars with
vinegar, tie over with bladder, set them in a large sauce-
pan with cold water up to their necks, and place a wet
cloth over them to prevent the bladder bursting. Boil for
an-liour-and-a-half, and the pickle will be ready for use.
Pickled Onions and Cucumbers. — Peel twelve cucumbers
and three large Onions, cut them all into thick slices, and
dust over with salt. Leave them thus for a day, then
drain them well, put them in a stone jar, pour over suffi-
cient boiling vinegar to cover, and keep them in a warm
place for a day. Drain off the vinegar again, and repeat
the process until both Onions and cucumbers are quite
green, adding a little pepper and ginger the last time of
boiling. Tie down, and pack away in a cool place.
Pickled Spanish Onions. — (1) Peel some Onions, cut a small
round piece out of the bottom of each, and scoop out a
little of the insides. Put them in a vessel with salt and
water to cover, and let them remain for three days, chang-
ing the water two or three times. Afterwards drain and
stuff the Onions as follows: First put in a little ground
mustard-seed, then some ginger cut small with a little
mace and shallot, add more mustard, and fill up with
scraped horseradish. Replace the bottom pieces, and bind
the Onions round with string to keep them in place. Make
a strong pickle of white vinegar, mace, ginger, nutmeg,
sliced horseradish, and a little salt ; put in the Onions and
let them boil up two or three times, care being taken that
they do not boil too much, for in that case they would
lose their firmness and would not keep. Put them with
the pickle into jars, leave them until the following day,
then strain off the pickle, boil it up, and pour it over the
Onions again. When the pickle is cold, tie the jars over
first with wet bladder and then with leather, and keep
them in a cool dry store-cupboard for use.
(2) Peel and slice § peck of Spanish Onions, and slice
four dozen large cucumbers, | peck of green tomatoes, and
Onions — continued.
four large green peppers; lay these ingredients in layers'
in a bowl, strew plenty of salt over them, and leave them
for one night. On the following morning, drain the ingre-
dients from the salt and the juice that will have run from
them, and put them in a preserving-pan with loz. each of
mace, turmeric, white mustard-seed, and white pepper,
loz. each of celery-seeds and cloves, 2oz. of dry mustard,
and 1 fib. of raw sugar. Pour in sufficient vinegar to cover
these ingredients, and boil them gently for an hour. Pack
the pickle into stone jars, leave it until cold, then tie them
over with stout paper, and put by in a cool dry store-
cupboard.
Roasted Onions. — Parboil the required number of large
Onions, leaving their skins on, then drain them, put them
in front of a clear fire, and roast ; or roast them in a Dutch
Fig. 40. Roasted Onions as a Garnish for Roasted Fowl.
oven, taking care to turn them occasionally. They are then
ready for use, and can be served as a garnish to roasted
fowl. See Fig. 40.
Scalloped Spanish Onions. — Peel 21b. of large sound Spanish
Onions, put them in a lined pan over the fire with
sufficient boiling water to cover them, add 1 teaspoonful of
salt, and boil them until tender. Meantime grate an equal
quantity of breadcrumb, and just moisten them with cold
milk. When the Onions are tender, pull them apart with two
forks, and put them into a buttered earthenware baking-dish
in layers with the moistened breadcrumbs ; season each layer
lightly with salt and pepper, having a layer of bread-
crumbs at the top ; put over it 1 table-spoonful of butter
in small pieces, place the dish in a hot oven until the
breadcrumbs are brown, and serve hot.
Spanish-Onion Cake. — Peel three or four large Spanish
Onions, and chop them into small pieces ; put them into a
stewpan with 3oz. of butter, and stir over a slow fire for
fifteen minutes, without letting them brown. Beat three
eggs together with 1 breakfast-cupful of sour cream, and
mix with them 3 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped ham
and a small quantity of caraway-seeds. When the Onions
are cool, add them to the .above ingredients. Roll out a
thin round of tart paste, put it on a buttered baking-dish,
spread the Onion mixture over it, and dust with salt.
Bake the cake in a brisk oven, and serve while hot.
Spanish-Onion Posset. — Peel a large Spanish Onion and
boil it for five hours, then drain it as free of water as
possible, and beat it to a pulp. Make a sufficient quantity
of gruel with groats and milk, and when cooked move it
to the side of the fire and put in the mashed Onion. Beat
the yolk of an egg well and stir it into the posset ; season
to taste with salt and pepper, and serve while veiy hot.
Spanish-Onion-and-Potato Croquettes. — Peel and boil a
large Spanish Onion, and when very tender drain and beat
it well. Mix the Onion with three times its quantity of
hot mashed potatoes, work in 2oz. of butter, season with
salt and plenty of black pepper, and mould the mixture
into small balls. Put a large lump of butter into a flat
stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling put in
the balls and fry them until of a nice brown. Drain the
balls for a second or so on a sheet of kitchen-paper, then
pile them up high on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley (see Fig. 41), and serve.
Spanish-Onion Salad. — Soak some large Spanish Onions
for a few hours, changing the water several times, for the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, 'die., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 29
Onions — continued.
purpose of reducing their flavour. Slice the Onions, put
them in a salad-howl with 1 table-spoonful of chopped
parsley, about 1 teacupful of vinegar, and R- teacupfuls of
salad-oil ; season with pepper and salt, toss the salad
about to mix it, then serve with toasted crackers.
Fig. 41. Spanish-Onion-and-Potato Croquettes.
Spanish-Onion Sauce. — Remove the peel and first skin
from about half-a-dozen large Spanish Onions, cut them
nearly through, put them into a saucepan with 4qts. of
water, and boil until they are tender. The water should
be changed when they are about half done, which will be
in about thirty minutes. Take them out, drain, chop them
very fine, put them into a saucepan with 4oz. of butter,
sprinkle over a little flour and salt, and cook gently until
the butter is melted. Stir well ; add \ teacupful of cream,
warm, and serve in a sauceboat.
Spanish-Onion Soup.— (1) Peel half-a-dozen large Spanish
Onions, cut and separate them into rings, and fry in a
little butter until they are of a light brown colour, and
quite tender. Take them out, drain them on a fine sieve,
and put them into a saucepan with 5qts. of water. Put
the pan on the fire, boil for an hour, stirring frequently,
and add salt and pepper to taste. Add the finely-sifted
crumb of a roll, and stir well in order to thoroughly in-
corporate it. Boil for two hours longer, and just before
serving add the yolks of two eggs beaten into 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar and a small quantity of the soup. Mix
this in, stirring one way, pour it into a tureen, and serve.
Soup prepared in this way will keep for four or five days.
(2) Put ten Spanish Onions into a saucepan with suffi-
cient milk and water in equal proportions to cover, and
boil them until they are quite soft. The milk and water
should be changed once or twice during the process.
Rub them through a fine sieve and keep them warm in
another saucepan. In the meantime put 2lb. of veal (or a
fowl cut into pieces) into a saucepan with ^ gall, of water
and a blade of mace, and simmer gently at the side of the
fire for an-hour-and-a-half. Strain the liquor into the
pan with the Onions and add the grated crumb of a roll
mixed into 1 breakfast-cupful of cream. Sprinkle in a
little cayenne and salt, pour it into a tureen, and serve.
A few asparagus- heads or spinach, if added, are a great
improvement to the flavour of the soup.
(3) Peel some moderate-sized Spanish Onions, put them
into a saucepan with plenty of water, and boil until nearly
tender, then drain off the water, and replace it with suffi-
cient milk and clear stock to make the soup ; continue
boiling them until quite tender, when pass the whole
through a fine sieve. Return the soup to the saucepan,
season it to taste with salt and pepper, and boil it up again.
Move it off the fire, put in loz. of butter broken into
small pieces, turn it into a soup-tureen, and serve with
sippets of toast or small crohtons of bread that have been
fried in butter.
(4) Put 61b. of knuckle of veal in a saucepan over the
fire with a little salt, 1 dessert-spoonful of white pepper,
a few blades of mace, and lgall. of water. Let it boil till
the meat separates from the bone, then strain off the stock
and let it stand all night, skimming it the next day. Boil
nine or ten large Spanish Onions in milk and water till
quite soft, rub them through a sieve, and put them over
the fire with the strained and skimmed stock ; let it boil
up, add about 4oz. of butter with 2 table-spoonfuls of
Onions — continued.
ground rice, and let it simmer for half-an-hour, stirring
continually. A few minutes before taking it from the
fire, add and stir in \ pint of cream, let it get very hot,
pour it into a tureen, and serve.
Spanish-Onion Soup a la Parisienne. — Chop up four large
Onions and fry them in a little butter. Add a small
quantity of sugar, and when the Onions are of a light
golden colour put them into a saucepan with Jgall. of
warmed broth, a little parsley, and a bay-leaf, and boil
for eight minutes. Put some thin slices of toast in a
tureen, arranging them in layers, sprinkle with pepper,
pour the soup over them, and serve.
Spanish-Onion-and-Tomato Salad. — Put some parboiled
Spanish Onions and tomatoes that have been peeled and
scalded into a salad-bowl, and mix in some parsley, chervil,
and tarragon, with salt and pepper to taste. Stir these
up and mix thoroughly with a little olive oil and sufficient
vinegar to taste. This salad should be prepared at least
five hours before it is required for use, so that the taste
of the Onions will be thoroughly incorporated.
Steamed Stuffed Onions— (1) Peel eight large Onions and
boil them for ten minutes in a saucepan of very slightly
salted water. Take them out, drain them quite dry, and
push out about half the insides. Chop the part taken out
very small together with a little sausage-meat, and add 1
teacupful of breadcrumbs, one egg, and a little salt and
pepper to taste. Put this mixture into the cavity of the
Onions, piling it a little on the top and bottom so that
none of it shall be left. Arrange them in a deep pan,
put it in a steamer over a saucepan of water, and steam
gently for an-hour-and-a-half. Put the pan into the oven
to brown the tops of the Onions, adding 1 breakfast-
cupful of gravy to prevent them burning. Arrange them
tastefully on a dish, and serve very hot.
Stewed Onions. — (1) Peel and wash twelve Onions, chop-
ping off' the tops and bottoms ; cut them in halves, mince
them very fine, blanch them to give them a sweeter taste
and remove the green colour, put them in a stewpan
with a little butter, and cook them. When quite done
and all the moisture evaporated, mix in 4 table-spoonfuls
of bechamel sauce ( see SAUCES). Sprinkle them over with
salt and pepper, rub them through a fine sieve, and keep
hot in a saucepan without letting them boil. A small
lump of sugar may be added if desired. If a highly-
flavoured sauce is required, the Onions should be put in a
stewpan with a little ham, mace, and bay-leaf, and cooked
gently for an hour.
(2) Peel, wash, and mince twelve Onions, put them into
a frying-pan with a little butter, anil fry them brown.
Add a little Spanish sauce to moisten them, strain through
a fine sieve, and they are then ready for use.
(3) Peel the required quantity of Onions, flour them well,
put them into a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry
them, but not enough to blacken them. Put them into a
stewpan with a small quantity of gravy, season to taste
with salt and pepper, cover over the pan, and stew for two
hours. They are then ready for serving.
(4) Peel a dozen small Onions, boil them for fifteen
minutes in salted water, then drain them. Put 1 table-
spoonful each of flour and butter into a frying-pan, and
when the flour is well browned pour in 1 wineglassful of
red wine and 1 pint of broth (see Broths). Warm this,
piit in the Onions, together with a small quantity of
parsley, thyme, cloves, and bay-leaf, and simmer gently at
the side of the fire until the Onions are quite done. Take
them out, put them on a dish, and pour over the reduced
sauce through a strainer.
Stewed Onions and Eggs. — Peel six or eight very large
sound Onions. Melt a small quantity of butter in a stew-
pan, stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and cook ; then put in
the Onions, moisten with milk, cream, or water, and stew
until done, taking care that the Onions do not brown,
and that the butter is not discoloured. Season with salt
and pepper, then add eight hard-boiled eggs cut in slices,
warm up without boiling, turn out on to a dish, arrange
the slices of egg round, and serve. See Fig. 42.
For details raspectiny Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
30
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Onions — continued.
Stewed Spanish Onions. — (1) Peel two or three Spanish
Onions, partially boil them in salted water for ten
minutes, drain, and wipe them on a cloth. Put one
or two slices of bacon into a stewpan with a hunch
of sweet herbs, and a few cloves and peppercorns ; cut
the Onions into halves, put them in, cover with clear
stock, and boil them gently for two hours, or until quite
tender. When cooked, strain the liquor through a line
sieve, pour it into a smaller saucepan, skim off all the fat,
and boil it until thickly reduced, meanwhile keeping the
Onions hot at the side of the fire. When ready, place
the Onions on a hot dish, pour the reduced sauce over
them, and serve.
(2) Put 1 pint of veal or mutton stock into a stewpan
together with a seasoning of salt and pepper and about
|oz. of butter rolled in flour. Peel and put into this eight
or nine Spanish Onions, stew them for an-hour-and-a-half,
or according to their size, and just before taking them
from the stewpan stir in 3 table-spoonfuls of cream. If the
Onions are to be stewed in brown sauce, brown a small
quantity of flour and butter in the stewpan, and add 1
pint of good gravy and a little pepper and salt; put in
the Onions, and let them stew about an-hour-and-a-half
according to size.
(3) Peel half-a-dozen large Spanish Onions, roast them in
a Dutch oven before the fire, turning them frequently till
they are nicely browned; then put them into a saucepan
with a bone, a rasher of bacon, a little pepper and salt,
and J pint of water. Put the lid on closely, let the
Onions stew till quite tender, take out the bacon and
the bone, and thicken the liquor with about £oz. of
butter rolled in flour.
Stewed Spanish Onions with Hard-boiled Eggs. — Peel
and boil six Spanish Onions in salted water until about
half cooked ; drain them, put them into a stewpan together
with a small lump of butter, and fry them. When nicely
browned, dredge over with Horn-, pour in 2 breakfast-
cupfuls of nicely-flavoured stock, and boil gently for fifteen
minutes. Boil six eggs hard, peel and slice them, put
them in with the Onions, and simmer for a minute or two
longer. Turn them on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets
of toast or small crohtons of bread nicely fried in butter,
and serve.
Stewed Stuffed Onions. — (1) Peel and blanch some large
Onions, drain them perfectly dry, scoop out the insides, and
fill them with chicken forcemeat ; put them at the bottom
of a deep saucepan, cover them over with slices of fat
bacon, and sprinkle with salt and sugar. Set the pan over a
clear fire, and when the Onions are quite cooked and
tender, take them out and arrange them on a dish. Reduce
the liquor quickly over a sharp fire, pour it over the Onions,
and serve.
(2) German Style. — Peel about half a-dozen large
white Onions, put them in a saucepan with a lump of
salt and plenty of water, and boil until tender. Finely
chop an equal quantity of lean and fat cooked pork,
seasoning it to taste with salt, pepper, and a small
quantity of sage. Drain the Onions, scoop out the centre,
and fill the hollows with the minced meat, j>iling it
high in the middle. Dissolve 4oz. of butter in a lined
saucepan, then put in the Onions, and fry them until
nicely browned. Mix b table-spoonful of flour smoothly
in \ pint of rich gravy, then pour it over the Onions, and
Onions — continued.
stew < them gently for fifteen minutes. When cooked,
arrange on a hot dish, pour the cooking-liquor over, and
serve very hot.
Stewed Stuffed Onions with Tomato Sauce. — Peel the
Onions, put them into a saucepan of water with a lump
of salt, and boil them for ten minutes. Drain them, and
scoop out a hollow place in the centre of each. Grate a
sufficient quantity of stale crumb of bread to fill the
Onions, and mix with it a small quantity of minced ham,
some thick tomato sauce, and the beaten yolks of two raw
eggs. Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper
and a moderate quantity of powdered spices, and stuff the
Onions with it. Put them into a stewpan in which has
been laid one or two slices of bacon, add a bunch of sweet
herbs, and moisten them with tomato sauce ; put the lid
on the stewpan, and stew until tender. When cooked,
take them carefully out of the stewpan, and lay them on
a hot dish ; skim the fat off the sauce, remove the herbs
and bacon, and pour over the Onions. Serve while hot.
Stewed Stuffed Spanish Onions. — (1) Peel anti partially boil
in salted water for ten minutes some large Spanish Onions,
then drain them and scoop out some of the inside, but
without going right through the bottom. Moisten some
breadcrumbs with pure tomato sauce, and mix with them
half their quantity of finely-minced ham ; season to taste
with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of spices, put the
mixture into a stewpan, stir it over the fire until hot, then
move it to the side, and stir in the beaten yolks of two
eggs. Put one or two slices of bacon into a stewpan
together with the Onions and a bunch of sweet herbs,
moisten them to height with tomato sauce, and stew
gently until tender. When cooked, place the Onions on a
hot dish, skim the sauce, pour it over them, and serve.
(2) Peel some large Spanish Onions and partially boil them
in salted water for ten minutes. Drain them and remove the
cores with a vegetable-scoop, but without cutting right
through the bottom. Wash about half-a-dozen anchovies,
cut them into small pieces, and mix them with plenty of
finely-grated breadcrumb, a moderate quantity of chopped
capers, and salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the Onions
with the mixture. Mix loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful
of flour in a stewpan over the fire, and stir in gradually
a sufficient quantity of equal parts of broth and claret to
cover ; put in the Onions with a bunch of sweet herbs and
four or five cloves, and stew slowly until tender. When
cooked, place them on a hot dish, strain their gravy over
them, and serve.
(3) Select large Spanish Onions, as near one size as possible,
peel, and partially boil t hem in salted water for ten minutes ;
drain them, and with a vegetable-scoop, a little more than
J-in. in diameter, cut out the cores, but without cutting right
through the bottom. Make a sufficient quantity of stuffing
for the Onions with breadcrumbs, tomato sauce, and a small
quantity of finely-minced ham ; season to taste with salt,
pepper, and powdered spices, and bind the whole with beaten
egg. Fill the cavity in the Onions with the mixture, pressing
it down tightly'; put them in a stewpan with a bunch of
sweet herbs and one or two slices of bacon, moisten to
about two-thirds their height with tomato sauce, and simmer
gently until quite tender. When cooked, place the Onions on
a hot dish, skim the sauce, remove the bunch of herbs, and
pour over the Onions. Serve very hot.
OOPACK. — A kind of black tea, grown in a district
of China from which it takes its name.
OPAH. — The name of a large sea-fisli (Lampris gut-
tatus), found principally in the Atlantic Ocean. It is
remarkable for its brilliant colours, which are red, green,
and blue, with tints of purple and gold, covered with
round silvery spots ; commonly known as the “ king of
the herrings.” Its flesh is coarse, and therefore is not
much used for culinary purposes.
ORANGES ( Fr . Orange; Ger. Orangen; Ital. Ar-
ancie; Sp. Aar an j as). — The extensive family ( Aurantiacese )
to which this wonderful fruit ( Citrus Aurantium) gives
its name, includes the lemon, the lime, the citron, the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c:, referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
31
Oranges — continued.
bergamot, and the shaddock, all of which differ in many
particulars from the Orange. This fruit, which derives
its title from the golden colour of its rind, finds its
way into our markets as varieties of two special kinds —
the one sweet, and the other bitter ; the first being known
as the Portugal or China Orange, and the other as the
Seville, Spanish, or Bigarade Orange. Both of these
are believed to be natives of Northern India, taking
their parentage from a tree that grows wild in Sikkim,
Ghurwal, and Khashya ; however that may be, the fruit
is now commonly grown throughout the tropics of both
hemispheres. In Europe its limit crosses the northern
part of Spain and the extreme south of Provence, traverses
Italy a little above Florence, descends nearly to Greece, I
and, passing Cyprus, enters Asia. Throughout the Medi-
terranean basin and the Azores, Orange-culture flourishes, j
Western Africa has recently taken up the industry.
China and Japan produce some of the choicer varieties,
amongst which the Mandarin is found. In several of the
Australian Colonies, and in Fiji, the culture is well
established; the West Indies are now producing very
large quantities ; and the Gulf States, California, Mexico,
and Brazil, are rapidly pushing the industry.
Oranges were unknown in Europe in the eleventh
century, but were shortly afterwards introduced westward
by the Moors. The Crusaders in the thirteenth century
found citrons, Oranges, and lemons very abundant in
Palestine, and after that these fruits became common
in Europe.
Of the varieties of the Sweet Orange (see Fig. 43), the
best known to us is the China or ordinary Orange, which
needs no description. The Blood-red or Malta Orange
Fig. 43. Sweet Orange.
has the fruit round, rough, red, or reddish-yellow out-
side, with a pulp irregularly mottled with crimson. The
St. Michael’s Orange has the fruit rather small, pale
yellow, and seedless, with a thin rind and a very sweet
pulp ; it is one of the most delicious kinds known. The
Noble or Mandarin Orange (see Fig. 44) is small,
flattened, and deep orange, with a thin rind, which separates
spontaneously from the pulp, so that when quite ripe
the latter may be shaken about inside ; it is exceedingly
rich and sweet. In China, where this delicious variety
has been raised, the fruit is chiefly consumed in presents
to the Mandarins, hence its name. It is now, however,
very successfully cultivated in Malta and in the Azores.
The Tangerine of America is a descendant of the Mandarin.
The sweet-skinned Orange is the Pomme d’Adam, or
“Forbidden Fruit” of the shops of Paris, but not of
Oranges — continued.
London ; its skin is smooth, deep yellow, with a thick,
sweet, soft rind.
“ The common Seville, or Bitter Orange, or Bigarade
{Citrus Bigaradia),” says Lindley, “has a round dark fruit
with an uneven, rugged, extremely bitter rind. This sort
is largely imported for the manufacture of bitter tinctures,
and the preparation of the candied Orange-peel. To this
Fig. 44. Mandarin Oranges.
section are referred the various kinds of Bigarades, among
which may be named the Horned, Curled-leaved, Purple,
Double-flowered, and Myrtle-leaved. These, especially the
Horned and Curled-leaved, are cultivated chiefly for their
flowers, which are powerfully fragrant.
Oranges are capable of being adapted to many culinary
purposes, as the following receipts will show ; the Seville
being preferred for cooking, as having the stronger flavour ;
but the Sweet Orange answers for many dishes equally
well, when the Bitter Orange cannot be obtained. When
the Bitter Orange is prescribed, it should be used if
possible.
Bigarade Sauce.— (1) Pare off the rinds of two Seville
Oranges, cut them up into small pieces, and boil in a
saucepan of water for about five minutes, then take them
out and drain. Put a little butter into a saucepan over
the fire, and when it melts stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour
and cook until it browns. Pour in 1 teacupful of broth,
add the juice of the two Oranges, a little sugar, and salt
and pepper to taste ; put in the pieces of rind, boil up
quickly, pour it into a sauceboat, and serve.
(’2) Put the rind of half a Seville Orange and a little
lemon-peel and sugar into a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cup-
ful of Spanish sauce, and boil gently for twelve minutes or
so. Strain off the liquor into a basin, and add the juice of
half a lemon, a little Orange-juice, and 1 gill of claret.
\\ arm it up without boiling, put in a little cayenne, turn it
out into a sauceboat, and serve. This sauce is a very good
accompaniment to wild fowls.
(3) Cut the rind off two sound bitter Oranges, keeping
it quite thin but of equal thickness. Blanch it, put it
into a saucepan with 1 pint of reduced Spanish sauce,
and add a little sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Warm
it up until the peel is tender, and a few minutes pre-
vious to serving add the juice of an Orange and a little
iemon-juice.
(4) Put the thinly-pared rinds of two bitter Oranges in
a saucepan with water to cover and boil them tid soft.
Dram the pieces of peel, cut- them into fine strips, and put
them m a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful of clear o-ravy
1 wineglassful of white wine. Squeeze in the juice
of the tu-0 Oranges, with a small quantity of lemon-juice.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, See., referred to, see under their special heads.
32
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued.
and put in a small pinch of cayenne pepper. Stir the
sauce over the fire until it boils, when it will be ready
for serving.
(5) Cut an Orange into halves, remove the peel and
pith from one half, and divide it into slices and each slice
again into quarters, taking care to pick out all the pips.
Put the pieces of Orange into a saucepan with 1 teacupful
of water, boil for three minutes or so, take out, and
drain. Put 1 gill of broth into a saucepan over the fire,
and when it boils add the pieces of Orange and a little sugar,
and stir in the juice from the remaining half. Simmer
gently for ten minutes, skimming frequently, turn it into
a sauceboat, and serve. A little mustard or cayenne may
be added.
(6) Mix 8 table-spoonfuls of red currant jelly with 1
table-spoonful of made mustard, put it into a basin, and
add a little pepper and one finely-minced shallot. In the
meantime rub the rinds of two sweet Oranges with pieces
of sugar, mix them into the jelly preparation, and pour
over sufficient port wine to make it of that consistence
that it will stick to the spoon while being stirred. Cut
off the rinds of two more Oranges, slicing them very fine,
mix them into the sauce, and pour it into bottles until
wanted. It will keep in this way for several months, and
must lie warmed up, not boiled, before serving.
(7) Cut off the peel from a large Orange, chop it into
small pieces, put it in a saucepan of water, and boil until
tender. When done, put it in a strainer to drain; when
quite dry, put it into a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful
of reduced brown sauce, and simmer gently at the side of
the fire for a few minutes. Just before serving, stir in
(off the fire) the juices of an Orange and lemon.
Buttered Orange-juice. -Squeeze the juice out of six or
seven Seville Oranges into a basin, and mix with it the
yolks of six eggs, the whites of three that have been
beaten separately, and 1 J wineglassfuls of rose-water. Beat
the mixture well, strain it through a fine hair sieve into
a small lined stewpan, mix with it Jib. of caster sugar, and
stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until it begins to
thicken, then put in a piece of butter about loz. in weight
and continue stirring it for a few minutes longer. Pour
Fig. 45. Buttered Orange-juice
the mixture, when the butter has dissolved, into a pie-
dish standing on a flat dish, garnish round with almond
biscuits, and leave it until quite cold before serving. See
Fig. 45.
Candied Orange-peel. — Cut some Seville Oranges in halves
lengthwise, and scoop out all the pulp as cleanly as possible.
Put the rinds into a bowl with salted water to cover, and
let them soak for a week. At the end of that time, drain
the rinds ; put 21b. of loaf sugar into a saucepan with 2qts.
of water and boil it until reduced to a thin syrup, then
add the rinds and boil them for lialf-an hour. Place in
another saucepan 21b. or 31b. of loaf sugar with a very small
quantity of cold water, and stir it over the fire until
reduced to a thick syrup. Put the rinds into the second
syrup, and boil them until the sugar candies. When ready,
lay the rinds on a fine sieve, sift caster sugai over, and
put them in a cooled oven. When the rinds are quite dry,
pack them into wide-mouthecl bottles, and cork down.
Candied Quarters of Oranges. — Peel the Oranges, divide
them into quarters, remove the pips as carefully as
possible, and boil the fruit gently in plenty of water.
Drain the quarters of Oranges thoroughly on a sieve, then
put them into a stewpan with syrup at 28deg. and let
them simmer for ten minutes. Turn the Oranges into a
Oranges — continued.
basin with the syrup, and leave them till the following
day ; then drain the syrup off the Oranges, boil it up again,
and pour it back upon the Oranges. Proceed in the same
way the three following days, giving the syrup in all what
is called four fashions. Take the quarters of Oranges
carefully out of the syrup, put them on wire sieves, and
set them in the screen. When the quarters of Oranges
are dry, dip them in semi-grained sugar and dry them again.
When quite dry, (they should not stick to the fingers when
touched), take the sieve of Oranges from the screen, and
leave them till cold, then pack away in boxes between
layers of white paper.
Caramel Orange Quarters. — Peel the Oranges and carefully
trim oft' all the white pith; pull them apart in quarters,
taking care not to tear the skin, place them on wire trays,
and dry in a moderate temperature. Boil lib. of sugar to
the crack (see Sugar-boiling), insert a thin twig care-
fully in the broad part of each Orange, dip them in the
sugar, and place them out of hand on oiled wire trays.
When finished, put the Oranges in a cool place till' the
sugar has stiffened on them. When ready to serve the
Oranges, push through from underneath the tray, taking
care not to damage the sugar that covers them ; put some
green leaves in a compote -dish, and lay in the quarters.
Chartreuse of Candied Oranges. — Peel and quarter Oranges
enough to line the bottom and sides of a round tin jelly
mould, lay the quarters upon a sieve, and place them on
the shelf over the stove or just inside the oven, where the
white membrane which encloses the pulp will become quite
dry ; this membrane must be entirely unbroken, so that no
juice can escape. While the Oranges are drying, put over
the fire in a sugar-boiler Jib. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water,
and I teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and boil the sugar until
it cracks off sharp when cooled in ice water ; after large
bubbles begin to show on top of the boiling sugar, it must
be tested frequently to see if it is boiled crisp enough.
When the sugar is done, pour some sweet salad-oil into a
round tin mould, run it all over the inside of the mould,
and then pour it out. Dip the quarters of Oranges in the
hot sugar, one by one, and then entirely line the bottom
and sides 'of the oiled mould with them, overlapping a
little ; the sugar will hold them together, and the oil will
prevent adhesion to the mould. When the Orange quarters
have cooled in the mould, they will turn out and retain
their shape. This forms a chartreuse, which may lie filled
just before serving with whipped cream (see Fig. 46) or
crystallised fruits.
Chartreuse of Oranges.— Two plain moulds will be required
one of which should be about ljin. more in diameter than
the other. Make some Orange jelly and pour a layer of
it into the larger mould, then put in a layer of Oranges
divided into quarters and freed of all skin and pips ; pour
over these another layer of jelly, and stand the mould on
ice. When the jelly is quite firm, put in the smaller mould,
placing it exactly in the centre, so that the space all round
will be the same. Next fill up the space between the
moulds with quarters of Oranges, prepared as above, and
liquid Orange jelly, and set the mould on ice. Dissolve
Joz. of isinglass in a small quantity of milk, then mix it
with 1J pints of cream, sweeten it with Orange syrup,
adding this latter ingredient in very small quantities and
whipping the cream well at the same time. When the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, i be., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
33
Oranges — continued.
jelly has set, pour warm water in the smaller mould to
loosen it, then lift it out carefully, fill up the hollow space
with the whipped cream, and stand the whole on ice for
an hour longer. When ready to serve, dip the large mould
containing the chartreuse in warm water, then turn its
contents quickly on to a dish. This dish can be made to
look very pretty and effective if a little care and judgment
are exercised in its manufacture ; the flavour is excellent.
Compote of Oranges. — (1) Put the thin peel of eight Oranges
into a saucepan with lib. of sugar and 3 breakfast-cupfuls
of water, and boil for twenty minutes, skimming frequently
as the scum rises. Scrape off the white pith from the
Oranges, taking care not to injure the inner skin ; pull
them into quarters, add them to the syrup, and simmer
gently for six minutes longer. Take them out with a
skimmer, arrange in a heap on a dish, keeping the skin
side downwards ; boil the syrup until quite thick, and when
cold pour it over the Oranges and serve.
(2) Peel six Oranges, cut them into rings or slices, and
remove their pips. Put |lb. of loaf sugar into a stewpan
with 1 teacupful of water, and place it over the fire ; when
it boils, put in the finely-minced yellow rinds of three
Oranges, and boil the whole for five minutes. Place the
sliced Oranges in a basin, pour the hot syrup over them,
cover the basin with a plate, and stand it in a cool place.
When quite cold, pile the Oranges on a glass dish, pour
their syrup over them, and serve.
(3) Put the thinly-pared yellow rinds of five or six Oranges
in | pint of water, stir in 5oz. or 6oz. of loaf sugar, and
when it has dissolved pour in | pint of white wine. Scrape
the white pith off' the Oranges, cut them into thin slices,
arrange in a circle on a fancy or glass dish, with plenty
of caster sugar strewn over and between them, with a few
of the slices tastefully arranged in a group in the centre.
Put the yellow peel round as a garnish, pour over the
syrup, and place the dish on ice or in a cool place for
several hours. Serve with fancy biscuits.
Compote of Oranges and Apples. — Cut into thin round
slices with their peels on about four Oranges, and dust them
over with sugar. Peel six or seven large ripe apples, cut
them into thin round slices, and cover them with more sugar.
Arrange the Oranges and apples alternately in a glass dish,
the slices overlapping each other, then sift more sugar
over the whole, stand the dish on ice, and leave it for two
hours. When ready to serve the compote, pour \ pint of
white wine over it.
Compote of Oranges and Cocoa-nut.— Carefully remove the
peel and white part of five sweet Oranges, and grate off' the
rind of one more, and one lemon. Separate the Oranges
into natural sections. Put the grated rinds of the Orange
and lemon, together with the juice of the latter, into a
saucepan, add 8oz. of sugar and ^ pint of water, boil for
five minutes, put hi the pieces of Oranges, boil for five
minutes longer, take out the Oranges, boil the syrup
until quite thick, then let it get perfectly cold. Put a few
of the pieces of Oranges on a glass dessert-dish, sprinkle
with grated cocoa-nut, pour over a little of the syrup, and
continue in this way until all is used up ; pile on top 1
pint of well-whipped cream, dust over with nonpareils or
chopped pistachio -nuts, and serve.
Conserve of Orange. — Grate the rind of one Orange into a
saucer, squeeze its juice over, and mix well. Put lib. of
crushed loaf sugar in a pan with a small quantity of
water, place it over a slow fire, and when boiling stir in
the Orange-juice and grated peel. Continue stirring until
reduced to a thick syrup, then turn it out and leave until
cold. It is then ready for use.
Imitation Orange-juice.— Put loz. of citric acid and 1
drachm of carbonate of potash into a basin, pour over lqt.
oi water, and let them dissolve; pour the liquor over the
peel of half an Orange, and let it stand until it is suffi-
ciently flavoured. Sweeten to taste with honey or white
sugar, and it is ready for use. In place of the Orange-
peel, 5 or 6 drops of the oil of Orange-peel, mixed with
jj fluid ounce of tincture of Orange-peel, may be used.
Imitation Syrup of Red Oranges of Malta. Put lqt. of
nlain syrup into a bottle and add I toz. of cherry juice,
Oranges — continued.
loz. of essence of curafoa (which must be quite fresh and
pure, otherwise the quality of the syrup will be spoilt),
and lastly, \oz. of citric acid. Shake the bottle now and
then, and in a day or so the syrup will be ready for use.
The essence of curafoa should contain ‘2oz. of oil in each
pint. The syrup should be used shortly after being made,
as it is liable to change its flavour considerably by being
kept.
Oranges a la Franqaise. — (1) Cut six Oranges into halves,
remove all the insides, taking care not to injure the rinds;
notch evenly round the edges of the rinds, and put
them into cold water to soak. Squeeze out all the juice
from the pulp, strain it into a saucepan, pour in water to
make 1| pints in all, add l£oz. of gelatine dissolved in 1|
teacupfuls of water, also 6oz. of sugar, the thin rind and
juice of a lemon, and the whites and crushed shells of
three eggs. Whisk well over the fire until the liquor boils,
remove the whisk, put the lid on the pan, and boil gently
for about ten minutes. Remove the pan front the fire, let
it stand for five minutes, and strain the jelly through a jelly-
bag until clear ; wipe the Orange-peels perfectly dry, fill
them level with the jelly, packing them in ice to keep
them firm, heap up on top \ pint or so of cream beaten
stiff with about 1 teaspoonful of crushed loaf sugar and a
few drops of vanilla, place a sweetmeat on the top of each,
and serve on a dessert-dish.
(2) Cut a small piece front the top of some large Oranges,
and scrape out all the inside with the aid of the handle of
a spoon, taking care not to injure the rind. Put the rinds
into a basin of cold water until wanted, and with the pulp
prepare a clear jelly. Take out the Orange-rinds, drain
them, and wipe them dry. Mix a little prepared cochineal
with half the jelly, leaving the remainder clear. When
the jelly is nearly cold, put in a little of the coloured and
of the clear alternately until the rinds are full, allowing
every layer to set before another is added. When the
jelly is quite set and firm, cut the Oranges into quarters
or halves with a sharp knife, place them on a dish, and
serve. They may be cut into halves before the pulp is
taken out, if desired, and one half filled with the coloured
jelly and the other with the clear. They must then be
cut into quarters before being served.
(3) Pour J pint of cold water over loz. of gelatine, and
let it soak for three hours. Take nine deep-coloured
Oranges, cut a hole in the top of each, only just large enough
to admit the bowl of an egg-spoon, and then scoop out all
the pulp (being very careful not to tear the edge of the
hole), and scrape out the inner skin. When the Orange-
rinds are emptied, lay them in cold water. Grate the rinds
from three other oranges, cut them then in halves, and
squeeze the juice over the grated rinds ; add it to the pulp
and juice of the nine Oranges, and strain all through
coarse muslin, squeezing it well so that the strained juice
may be well coloured with the grated rind. Mix with this
juice Hlb. of powdered white sugar, and stir till the sugar
is quite dissolved, then add % saltspoonful of powdered
cinnamon. Pour 1 pint of boiling water over the soaked
gelatine in a saucepan, put it over the fire, and stir till it
is quite dissolved ; add the juice and sugar, and stir over
the fire for two or three minutes, then strain it through
a jelly-bag, but do not squeeze or shake the bag. Take
the Orange rinds out of the cold water, wipe them, and
put them standing close together on a dish, the open ends
uppermost, and fill them very full with the warmed strained
jelly. Pet them stand in a very cool place all night. Next
day, cut them in halves, first cutting the rinds through all
round with the point of a very sharp penknife, then with
a larger knife cutting right through the jelly. Pile these
halves on a glass dish and garnish with green leaves.
Orange and Apple Tart. — Thinly peel two Oranges, put the
peel in a saucepan with a small quantity of water, boil
it till tender, and then cut it into fine shreds. Peel and
core ten or twelve apples, cut them into quarters, and put
them into a saucepan with just sufficient water to prevent
them burning. \\ hen half cooked, put Mb. of sugar in
with the apples, also the peel of the Oranges and the juice.
Stir the mixture over the fire till reduced to a thick
paste, then take it off and leave till cold. Butter a shallow
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tic., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
34
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — con tin ued.
dish, line it with short paste, and bake in a quick oven.
W hen cooked, leave the paste till cold, then turn the Orange
mixture into it, and serve. If preferred, it can be put into
small tartlets, which should be baked in patty-pans before-
hand.
Oranges and Bananas for Dessert. — Peel four bananas
(the red kind if possible), cut them across into rather thin
slices, and arrange them in a glass dish ; strain the juice
from a couple of Oranges, pour it over the bananas, sprinkle
them plentifully with powdered sugar, and serve imme-
diately. Or peel the Oranges, slice them, and arrange the
slices in the dish among the slices of bananas. Cream,
either whipped or plain, may be served with this dish,
also sugar.
Orange Baskets. — (1) Select some Oranges with a clear
skin, and with a blunt knife mark out the handle and
rim of a basket in Vandykes. With a sharp penknife cut
through the rind over the traced lines, taking care not to
cut through the pulp. Take off the two spare pieces of
peel, and with the handle of a teaspoon carefully take
out all the pulp from the basket. Fill up the baskets
Fig. 47. Orange Basket.
with Orange jelly of whipped cream, and decorate with
crystallised flowers (see Fig. 47) ; put a large flat of sponge
cake in the centre of a dish, with a napkin spread over
it, put one basket on the top of the cake, and surround
with the remainder. Any form of extra ornamentations,
such as perforations, &c., can be put in the basket.
(2) Candied. — Cut and prepare the Oranges as for Orange
Baskets, drop them into cold water for a few minutes, and
then drain and simmer them gently in boiling water for
three minutes in order to soften them, so that they may
be cut with a perforating tin vegetable-cutter to represent
open-work baskets. Put them into a sugar-boiler with
some syrup at 24deg. (see Syrups), simmer gently for a
few minutes, and then put them with the syrup into a
basin. Let them remain for a day, strain off the syrup,
boil up again, and pour it over the baskets, repeating the
operation the following day. Take out the baskets, drain
them, fill them with any kind of small preserved fruits or
jellies, pour over a little syrup flavoured with maraschino,
arrange them on a dish, and serve. Before cutting them
into baskets they may be turned very thinly to remove
the coloured rind, and in a spiral direction, which will
make them quite transparent when finished.
Orange Bavaroise.— Put the yolks of eight eggs into a
saucepan and add lOoz. of loaf sugar and the peel of two
Oranges steeped for an hour in 3 breakfast-cupfuls of boiling
milk. Place the pan over the fire, and when the mixture
begins to thicken add ljoz. of gelatine steeped in water,
and strain the whole through a fine sieve into a pan or
bowl. Pack this in ice, anti stir until it is quite thick,
then mix in 3 breakfast-cupfuls of whipped cream. Line
a cylinder-mould with Orange jelly, and when it is set
pour in the mixture, pack the mould in ice, let it remain
for two hours or so, turn it out on to a dish, and serve.
Oranges — continued.
Orange Beignets. — Peel some Oranges, carefully removing
every particle of the white part of the rind ; divide them
into pieces, roll each piece in powdered white sugar, dip
them in batter, and fry.
Orange Biscuits. — (1) Put 8oz. of butter into a basin,
warm it, work it to a cream, and add the same quantity
of Orange sugar. Chop into thin slices 2oz. of candied
Orange-peel, mix it in, and add gradually 4oz. of dried
flour and the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs. Beat the
whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, stir them in, pour the
mixture into well-buttered moulds, sprinkle over a little
caster sugar, and bake in a slow oven for five or six
minutes. Turn them out when done, let them get cold,
and they are then ready for use.
(2) Put two or three Seville Oranges into a saucepan of
water, and boil them until the rinds are quite tender,
changing the water frequently to take off the bitterness.
Take them out, drain them, cut them in halves, scrape
out all the pulp, carefully removing all the pips, and
pound the rind to a pulp in a mortar. Rub the rind
pulp through a sieve, and add it to the inside pulp and
juice, weigh it, and add double the quantity of caster
sugar. Stir 1X611, and let it stand for twelve hours or so.
Brash over a baking-sheet with salad-oil. pour the mixture
on it, spreading it very thinly, let it remain for a few
hours in the dry closet, cut it into shapes, and when they
are quite dry on one side turn them over and diy the other
side. Arrange them on a dish, and serve.
(3) With 6oz. of sugar nib off the rind of half an
Orange, then pound well. Sift Jib. of flour on to a table,
make a bay in the centre, put in Joz. of yeast dissolved
in 1 teacupful of warm milk, also 2oz. of butter, the yolks
of two eggs, a very little salt, 4oz. of blanched and pounded
sweet almonds, and the Orange sugar. Mix all these thoroughly
and set it to rise in a warm place for five or six hours.
Roll out the paste to about Jin. in thickness, cut it into
narrow strips, cut them slantwise into pieces about 5in.
long, and form them into rings, taking care that the join
is almost invisible. Put half of them at a time into a
saucepan of boiling water on the fire, gently agitate the
surface to cause them to rise, take them out, drain them,
put them into cold water, and when they are cold take
them out and drain. Dip them into beaten egg, let them
drain, put them on to waxed baking-sheets, and bake in a
very moderate oven until they are slightly coloured. Take
them out and they are ready for use. They may be formed
into any desired shape, such as twists, knots, &c.
(4) Grate the rind of an Orange into Jib. of flour and
put them into a mortar. Beat six eggs with fib. of
powdered white sugar, mix this with the flour and grated
peel in the mortar, and beat it to a paste. Put this paste
into biscuit-moulds, and bake in a rather hot oven.
Orange Bitters. — (1) Macerate 01b. of Orange-peel for twenty-
four hours with lgall. of water. Cut the yellow part
of the peel from off the white, chop it fine, and macerate
in 4f galls, of 95 per cent, alcohol for two weeks, then add
a syrup made of 4Jgalls. of water and 16lb. of sugar.
Filter through Canton flannel.
(2) Take Joz. of Seville Orange-peel, Joz. each of lemon-
peel, gentian root and ginger, all bruised, and put them
into a jug ; pour 1 pint of boiling water over them and
cover with a cloth.
(3) Peel the yellow rinds as thinly as possible off three
dozen Seville Oranges ; put the rinds into a tub with
2galls. of strong gin and 3-lb. of loaf sugar, cover, and let
them stand for three months. At the end of that time,
strain the bitters, pour it into bottles, cork them tightly,
and put away for use.
Orange Brandy. — (1) Put twenty large Seville Oranges into
a jar with 4lb. of crushed loaf sugar, 2galls. of pale brandy,
and a little cinnamon, and stir very gently for three weeks,
taking care not to bruise or injure the Oranges. Strain
off the liquor through a flannel or jelly-bag, put it into
bottles, cork down, and it is ready for use.
(2) Peel off as thinly as possible the yellow rinds of
eight lemons .and eight Seville Oranges ; put the rinds in
a large jar with 31b. of loaf sugar, a small quantity of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fc c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
35
Oranges — continued.
saffron, and lgall. of pale brandy, and let the whole re-
main for three days, stirring it occasionally. At the end
of that time, strain the liquor, pour it into bottles, anti
cork them tightly. Keep the brandy for a year in a cool
cellar before it is used.
(3) Peel otf thinly the rinds of six Seville Oranges and
strain the juice of twelve. Put the peel and juice into a
large open vessel, with 21b. of caster sugar and 3qts. of
pale brandy. Turn lqt. of skimmed milk into a saucepan,
place it over the lire until boiling hot, then pour it in
with the brandy and mix well. Stir the brandy occasion-
ally every day for eight days, then strain it through a
flannel hag until quite clear. Pour the brandy into pint
bottles and cork them tightly.
Orange Butter. — Boil twelve rggs until hard, peel them,
cut them into halves, and put their yolks in a mortar with
2oz. of caster sugar, Jib. of butter, and 2oz. of blanched
and chopped sweet almonds. Pound the whole to a smooth
paste, moistening it occasionally with Orange-flower water,
then rub it through a sieve on to a glass dish. Serve
the butter with any kind of sweet or fancy biscuits.
Orange Cake. — (1) Large, — Sift fib. of flour on a paste-
board, cut Jib. of butter into small pieces, lay them on
the flour, and work them in ; add fib. each of sugar
and blanched and pounded almonds, the yolks of four
hard-boiled eggs that have been rubbed through a fine
sieve, three well-beaten eggs, and suttieient milk to form a
smooth paste. Knead the paste until all the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed, then roll it out as thinly as possible
without breaking. Cut it to a round shape, lay it on a
sheet of buttered paper on a baking slab, roll the trimmings
of the paste out into a long strip, cut it lengthwise into
three, and plait them. Moisten round the edges of the
cake with a paste-brush dipped in milk, and lay the plait
round. Bake the paste until lightly browned in a moderate
oven. Beat the yolks of three eggs together with the grated
peel and strained juice of three Oranges, fib. of caster
sugar, and loz. of butter broken into small pieces. Turn
the mixture into a lined stewpan and whisk it over a slow
tire until it thickens, but on no account let it boil or the
eggs will curdle ; then move it away from the fire and let
it cool. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a still' snow and
stir them light. y in with the yolks. When the crust is
Fig. 48. Orange Cake.
nearly cold, spread the mixture over it, garnish in a circle
until quarters of Oranges from which all the white pith
has been removed, pile a few table spoonfuls of well-whipped
cream in the centre (see Fig. 48), and serve.
(2) Grate the rinds off two Oranges and strain their juice.
Put 1 pint of flour in a basin, and mix with it lib. of
moist sugar, half of the grated Orange-peel, 1 teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, 4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda,
and 1 saltspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks of four and the
whites of two eggs in half the Orange-juice, and stir them
in with the dry ingredients, adding sufficient cold water to
mix the whole of the proper consistency. Butter some
jelly-cake pans, fill them with the mixture, and bake in
a quick oven. Whisk the two remaining whites of eggs
together with 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of caster sugar and
the rest of the Orange-juice and rind ; when the cakes are
cooked, turn them out of the tins, spread each cake over
with a layer of the beaten whites, and put them one on
top of another. When cold, mask the top of the last cake
with Orange icing, and place it in a cool oven for a minute or
Oranges— continued.
two for the icing to dry on it. Spread a lace-edged dish-
paper over a round dish, place the cake on it, and serve
when ready. The top looks very pretty if ornamented in
some fancy design with shred angelica and crystallised
fruits.
(3) Place the thinly-cut rind of an Orange in a basin
with the juice of two lemons, and let them soak for an
hour or so. Put Jib. of butter and lib. of sugar into a
basin and work them to a cream, add gradually the yolks
of five eggs, and beat well for ten minutes. Strain in the
lemon-juice, mix in lib. of flour, and add a little less than
1 table-spoonful of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in 1 table-
spoonful of boiling water. When thoroughly mixed, pour
it into a flat-cake pan, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn
it out when done, and when cold it is ready for use.
(4) Beat eight eggs in a basin, and when they are very
light mix in 1 (,1b. of sugar and Jib. of butter worked to a
cream, then add 1 breakfast-cupful of milk ; dissolve 1 tea-
spoonful of bicarbonate of soda and 2 teaspoonfuls of cream
of tartar in another breakfast-cupful of milk, and pour it
in also. Sprinkle in Hlb. of flour, mix thoroughly, pour it
into jelly-cake pans, and bake. In the meantime put the
juice and gr ited peels of twelve Oranges into a basin, mix
in 21b. of caster sugar, and if the Oranges are' very sweet
add the juice of one or two lemons. Stir to a smooth paste,
and when the cake is done divide it into slices, spread
them over with the Orange mixture, put them back in their
original positions, cover the top with the mixture, sprinkle
caster sugar over, and serve.
(5) Small. — Beat ilb. of sugar and 4oz. of butter to a
cream, add the yolks of seven eggs, whip these well in,
lint in the grated rind and juice of an Orange, and lastly
41b. of sifted flour mixed with 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder. Work it until quite light, pour it into buttered
flat pans, and bake in a moderate oven. Take them out
and use when cold. They may be iced with Orange-flavoured
icing.
Orange Caramels. -Peel the Oranges carefully, removing all
the white part of the rind ; separate them into sections
without breaking the skin, and lay them in confectioners’
sugar for a short time. Make a syrup of loaf sugar and
very little water, boil it till when a little of it tried in
cold water is brittle, then dip the pieces of Orange separately
and quickly into it and lay them on a well-oiled wire tray
to dry. They should be very carefully removed from the
trays when dry, as the caramel is easily broken.
Orange-Caramel Rock. -Put lib. of loaf sugar into a basin,
ponr over it 1 breakfast-cupful of water, and add 1 tea
cupful of filtered Orange-juice, 1 liqueur-glassful of kirschen-
wasser, and 1 teaspoonful of acetic acid. Pour it all into a
sugar-boiler, boil to the crack ( see SUGAR-BOILING), and mix
in Jib. of candied Orange-peel cut up into very small
pieces. Turn it out into a deep well-oiled pan, mark it
into diamond shapes, and when quite cold and set it is
ready for use.
Orange Charlotte. — Line a charlotte-mould with sections
of Oranges. Put Joz. of gelatine into a basin with a little
less than 1 teacupful of water, let it soak until soft,
then pour over about the same quantity of boiling water,
and add Jib. of sugar and the juice of a lemon. Pass it
through a sieve into another basin, and add the pulp and
juice of sufficient Oranges to make \ pint of it ; add a
little of the grated rind of an Orange, and pack the basin
in ice to cool. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff
froth, and when the Orange mixture begins to thicken add
them, and beat until it is thick enough to drop from the
whisk. Pour it into the mould, pack it in ice, and when
set and firm turn it out on to a glass dish; garnish
round with crystallised Orange flowers (see Fig. 49), and
serve.
Orange Cheese Cakes. —(1) Peel two Oranges as thinly as
possible, put the rinds in a saucepan with plenty of water,
and boil them until tender. Drain the peels, put them in
a mortar with 4oz. each of loaf sugar and butter, and
pound well. Beat the yolks of six or seven eggs in 1 table-
spoonful each of brandy and sherry, then mix them in gra-
dually with the pounded ingredients. Butter some patty-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
D
36
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued.
pans, line them with puff paste, half fill each with the
Orange mixture, anil hake in a brisk oven. When cooked,
take the cakes out of the tins, and arrange them on a folded
napkin or fancy dish-paper spread over a dish.
(2) Blanch and skin Jib. of almonds, put them in a
mortar, and pound finely, pouring in every now and then
a few drops of Orange-flower water. Warm lib. of butter,
being careful not to oil it, then beat it well together with
Jib. of caster sugar. Boil one fresh and two candied
Oranges to draw out the bitterness, then drain and pound
them in a mortar till quite smooth. Beat the yolks of ten
eggs and the whites of four, then mix all the ingredients
together. Fill some patty-pans with the mixture, and bake
in a moderate oven. When cooked, turn the cakes out of
the tins, leave them till cold, arrange them on a fancy
dish, and serve.
Orange Chips. — Cut some Seville Oranges into halves and
squeeze out all the juice, which strain through a fine sieve;
remove all the pulp from the rinds, and steep them in
water for an hour or two. Afterwards drain the rinds and
boil them in plenty of water until tender; drain, cut
the rinds into shreds, put them in a stewpan, pour
the juice over, add an equal weight of loaf sugar, and
place them over a gentle lire. Stir the chips frequently
until they candy, then put them in a cool larder and
leave until quite dry, which will take nearly a month.
When ready, the chips should be kept for use in wide-
mouthed bottles.
Orange Cordial. —Cut twelve medium-sized bitter Oranges
into slices, put them in a vessel, and pour over 3qts. of
rectified spirit and 1 pint of Orange-flower water ; close
the vessel, taking care that no air can enter, and let it
remain for ten days ; then add 51b. of clarified syrup, lqt.
of water, and sufficient tincture of saffron to colour. Cover
the vessel again, sealing it as before, and let it remain
for fourteen days. Run the liquor through a jelly-bag,
let it settle, pour it from the lees, bottle, and use as
required.
Orange Cream. — (1) Put the peel from six large Oranges
into a bottle containing 2 pints of brandy, and let it infuse
for a couple of weeks. Put 21b. of sugar into a basin with
1 pint of water, and when it has dissolved add it to the
brandy, together with 1 pint of boiling skimmed milk. Let
it remain for a day, then filter it through filtering-paper,
pour it into bottles, cork down, and use when required.
(2) Boil the peel of a Seville Orange for a, few minutes,
changing the water frequently so as to extract the bitter
taste. Pound it to a pulp in a mortar, and add J I b. of
caster sugar beaten to a smooth paste, together with the
yolks of four eggs, as well as the strained juice of the
Orange and 1 table-spoonful of brandy. Turn it into a
basin, beating it well for about twelve minutes, then add
2 breakfast-cupfuls of boiling cream, and stir until it is
quite cohl. Turn it into custard-glasses, and serve.
Oranges — continued.
(3) Peel the yellow rinds off two Seville Oranges as thinly
as possible; beat the yolks of eight eggs well, turn them
into a lined saucepan with lqt. of fresh milk and the rinds
of the Oranges, sweeten to taste with caster sugar, and
stir the whole over a moderate fire until thickened, but do
not let it boil. Next stir in with the custard loz. of
gelatine that has been dissolved in a small quantity of
warm water, and the juice of the two Oranges. Rinse a
mould out with cold water, strain the custard into it, and
place it in a cool temperature or on ice. Previous to serv-
ing, dip the mould quickly into warm water to loosen the
contents, wipe it, and turn the cream on to a fancy dish.
(4) Mix together 21b. of loaf sugar, 1 teaspoonful of cream
of tartar, and J pint of water ; set it in a stewpan over a
moderate fire, keeping it closely covered till when a little
of it is tried in cold water it forms a jelly. Stir into it
then a flavouring of bitter Orange extract and the grated
rinds of two Oranges ; directly these are added, take the pan
from the fire, let it stand closely covered for ten minutes,
and beat to a smooth stiff cream with a small wooden spatula.
When beaten as stiff as soft dough, turn it out on a paste-
board and work it with the hands; form it into balls, and
cover them with chocolate.
(5) Put the grated yellow rinds of one-and-a-lialf Seville
Oranges into a jar together with lib. of loaf sugar, the
strained juice of six Seville Oranges, and 1 pint of the
best brandy ; cork the jar well, and let it stand for three
days, shaking it twice each day. At the end of the three
days, boil 1 pint of fresh milk warm from the cow, and
stir it hot into the mixture in the jar. Cover it closely,
and when quite cold strain it through a flannel bag; bottle
it, seal the corks, and lay the bottles on their sides in saw-
dust. It will be fit for use in a week, but will keep longer.
It is a nice flavouring for trifles, &c., and mixed with ice-
water makes a nice summer drink.
(6) Thinly peel the yellow rind off a Seville Orange, and
boil it ; when the rind is tender, which can be told by pass-
ing a straw through it, drain, and put it in a mortar ; beat
it until fine, then mix in Jib. of loaf sugar and beat
again until the sugar is fine. Whip the yolks of four eggs
with the juice of the Orange and J wineglassful of the
best brandy, and mix them with the other ingredients ; stir
in gradually 1 pint of boiling cream, and beat the whole
until cold. Pour the cream into custard-cups, stand them
in a deep dish, pour round boiling water to half their
height, and let them remain in it until the water is cold.
Ornament the top of each custard with small pieces of
preserved fruits or peel, and serve.
Orange Cream-Ice. — (1) Put the rinds of two Oranges
rubbed off with fib. of sugar into a saucepan, add the yolks
of eight eggs, the juice of six Oranges, and a little salt, and
stir well over the fire until the mixture thickens, working
it briskly ; then pour it into a mould packed in ice, freeze,
and when wanted turn out on to a dish and serve very
cold.
(2) Rub a few lumps of sugar on the peel of an Orange,
put them into a saucepan with the juice of four Oranges,
and pour over lgall. of cream. Stir well over the fire,
add sufficient caster sugar to sweeten, and when it begins
to get thick pour into moulds, freeze, and it is ready for
use.
(3) Squeeze the juice from seven Oranges and one lemon
into a sieve placed over a saucepan, and add ljoz. of ising-
glass and sufficient water to make the liquor 3 breakfast-
cupfuls in all. Rub off the peels of the Oranges and lemon
with 4oz. of loaf sugar, put it into the saucepan with
the juice, and boil for twelve minutes or so. Pass it
through a fine strainer or muslin bag into a basin, and
when quite cold work it well into 1 breakfast -cupful of
cream. Pour it into a mould dipped in cold water or well
oiled, packed in ice, turn it out on to a dish, and serve.
(4) Rub Jib. of loaf sugar over the yellow rinds of
several Oranges until each lump is well saturated with it,
then put them in a lined stewpan with 1 pint of milk
and the thinly-pared rinds of two more Oranges, and boil
them for a few minutes. Strain the milk, return it to the
stewpan with the beaten yolks of six eggs, and stir it at
the edge of the fire until thickened, but it must not boil
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i be., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
37
Oranges — continu ed.
or the eggs will curdle. Mix 1 teacupful of whipped cream
with the custard, turn it into a freezer, and work it until
frozen. Afterwards put it into a mould and pack in
pounded ice and salt for an hour or two. Before serving,
dip the mould into hot water, taking it out again at once,
wipe it, and turn the ice on to a fancy glass or china
dish.
Orange Cream Trifle. — Put one dozen or two of macaroons
in the centre of a glass dish and soak them with white
wine. Mix the grated rind and the juice of two small
Seville Oranges with lqt. of thick cream, add 2 table-spoon-
fuls of Orange-flower water, and sweeten to taste with
caster sugar. Whisk the cream to a still' froth, then turn
Fig. 50. Orange Cream Trifle.
it over the soaked macaroons, piling it as high as possible.
Stand the dish over ice or in a cold place for two or three
hours, then ornament it with strips of green citron (see
Fig. 50), and serve.
Orange Croquenbouclie. — Remove the peels and pith from
seven or eight large Oranges, divide them into quarters,
take off the inside pith, and place them on a sieve to dry.
Put lib. of loaf sugar into a sugar-boiler, add A pint of !
water, put the pan on the fire, and when the sugar has
dissolved add 1 pinch of cream of tartar. Boil to the
crack degree (sec SUGAR-BOILING), and dip in the quarters
of Oranges, holding them gently by one end ; arrange
them on a strainer or pastry-grill, let them drain, dip
them again into the sugar, and arrange in a well-oiled
croquenbouche-mould. They should be put in rows in an
upright position, and fixed to one another by dipping them
lastly into hot sugar. When they have set and the sugar
is quite cold, remove the mould, and serve on a napkin
spread over a dish.
Orange Cup. — Peel about half-a-dozen Oranges, remove all
the white pith, and divide them into sections; then remove
the pips and the thin membranes from them. Put 6oz. of
caster sugar in a saucepan with the juice of two Oranges,
and stir it over a slow fire with a wooden spoon until it
has dissolved but does not boil ; take it off the fire and
leave until cold. Arrange the pieces of Oranges in a glass
dish. Mix sufficient water with the syrup to form a nice
sherbet, flavour with a few drops of essence of Orange-
liowers, and pour it over the Oranges ; put in a few lumps
of ice, and serve with a ladle. See Fig. 51.
Orange Custard. — (1) Put the thinly-pared rinds of two
Seville Oranges into a stewpan with some water and boil
them until tender. Drain the peel, and pound it to a
smooth paste in a mortar. Strain the juice of four Seville
Oranges, mix it with the peel, and add 1 wineglassful of
brandy, 1 lb. of caster sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and
the whites of six. Beat the mixture thoroughly, stir in lqt.
of milk, pour the whole into a lined stewpan, and stir it
over a moderate fire with a wooden spoon until thickened,
but not quite boiling. Pour the custard into glasses or a
glass dish, and serve.
(2) Boil the thinly-pared yellow rind of half a Seville
Orange in plenty of water until tender, then drain and
pound it in a mortar. When quite smooth, mix with the
yolks of four eggs the strained juice of a Seville Orange,
4 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and A wineglassful of
Oranges — continued.
brandy. Beat the whole together for sixteen minutes, then
work in gradually 1 pint of boiling cream. Continue beat-
ing the mixture until cold, then pour it into cups; stand
them in a flat pan, surround with boiling water, and
place them over the fire. When the custards are set,
ornament the top of each with a preserved Orange. Serve
either hot or cold.
(3) Squeeze the juice of ten large sound Oranges into a
lined saucepan, sweeten with a few table-spoonfuls of
caster sugar, and stir over the fire till on the point of
boiling. Skim the juice and leave it until nearly cold.
Beat the yolks of ten eggs well, mix them with 1 pint of
cream, and stir them in with the Orange-juice. Place the
saucepan over a slow fire, and stir the contents until thick,
but not boiling. Serve the custard when cold.
(4) Put |oz. of gelatine into a basin with 1 breakfast-
cupful of milk and let it soak for two hours. Beat up the
yolks of six eggs with fib. of granulated sugar. Put 1J pints
of milk into a double boiler, and when it boils pour in the
gelatine and then the eggs, stirring continually for five
minutes or until it thickens ; turn it into a basin and let
it cool. Peel off the rinds from half-a-dozen large Seville
Oranges, cut them into halves, take out the pips, and
remove all the hard parts. Arrange them in a glass dish,
pour over the custard, let it remain for eight hours or so,
then cover it with 6 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar beaten
gradually into the whites of six eggs whisked to a stiff
froth, and serve.
Orange Custard Fritters. Put lib. of flour into a basin,
and stir in gradually, keeping it quite smooth, lqt. of milk
and five well-beaten eggs. Turn the batter into a saucepan,
and stir it over a moderate fire for twenty minutes with-
out letting it boil ; then move it to the side, and mix in
4 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, I table-spoonful of finely-
chopped Orange-peel, \ saltspoonful of salt, and the well-
beaten yolks of five eggs. Butter a baking-slieet, and
when the custard is well mixed, spread it over about lin.
in thickness. When cold, cut it into equal-sized pieces,
dip them in beaten egg and then in finely-grated bread-
crumb, and fry them in butter till a golden brown. Drain
the fritters, dust some caster sugar over, put them on a
folded napkin or an ornamental disli-paper on a hot dish,
and serve.
Oranges for Dessert. — (1) Peel the Oranges and trim
oil' the white part, being very careful not to break the
fruit. Put some caster sugar in a dish, about lib. for
two dozen Oranges, and pour over it sufficient cochineal to
give it a bright pink colour; place it in front of the fire
until well dried. Roll the Oranges in the sugar, giving
them a good coating all over, then arrange them carefully
in a raised glass or dessert-dish (see Fig. 52), and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dee., referred to, see under their special heads.
i/t Rs; r y
UBRARY
LEEDS
38
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued.
Oranges coloured in this way are a great improvement on
the ordinary way of serving them.
(2) Peel the Oranges, and with a sharp knife trim oil'
all the white pith ; slice them, and put them in layers in
a glass dish, alternating each layer with a layer of grated
cocoa nut and a dust of caster sugar. Strew plenty of
grated cocoa nut on the top, pour 1 or 2 wineglassfuls
of sherry over the Oranges, and stand the dish on ice for
an hour or two before serving.
(3) Select some fine China Oranges, peel them, and
carefully trim off the pith, taking care not to cut through.
Pass a double thread through the centre of each Orange.
Whisk the whites of two eggs with lib. of caster sugar
for twenty minutes. Hold the Oranges by the thread,
and dip them into the beaten eggs and sugar, giving them
a good coating. Pass a very thin stick through the Oranges
in place of the thread, and fix them where they will dry
quickly. Arrange the Oranges on a glass dish, and serve.
Orange Drops. — (1) Rub off as much Orange-rind as will
flavour about 2lb. of sugar made into drops. Put 21b. of
rather coarsely-sifted sugar, that is without fine powder,
into a basin, scrape off and add the Orange sugar, and stir
in gradually sufficient water to make a paste that will
drop from the spoon without sticking to >lt. Put this into
a sugar-pan and add a little yellow colouring of saffron,
set the pan on a ring on the stove, and stir well until
the sugar is dissolved and makes a slight noise. Remove
from the stove when about to boil, drop small lumps on
cartridge paper or tin, and set them in the drying closet
for about two hours. Pack them in tins or boxes. The
sugar-pan should have a spout to the right, and when
held in the left hand it is easy enough, with a piece of
wire in the right, to chop off the preparation to the
required size while being poured slowly out.
(2) Put 8oz. of butter into a basin, beat it to a cream,
and add the same quantity of sugar, the zest (rind) of four
Oranges, and eight eggs one at a time. Peat well between
every addition, and then sprinkle in 14oz. of flour. When
thoroughly mixed, pour into small round tins, and bake in
a moderate oven until done. Turn the drops out on to a
dish, and they are ready for use when quite cold.
Orange Extract. — Cut the thinly-pared rinds of three bitter
Oranges into shreds, put them into a bottle, then pour in
1 pint of brandy or whisky, and cork it tightly. Shake
the bottle frequently for the first four or five weeks.
This extract will keep for years.
Orange Pool. — Squeeze the juice out of five or six Oranges,
and strain and beat it up with three eggs and 1 pint of
cream ; sweeten to taste with caster sugar, and flavour
with moderate quantities of grated nutmeg and powdered
cinnamon. Pour the mixture into a lined stewpan, and
stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon until thickened,
but do not let it boil. When ready, pour into a glass
dish, and serve when quite cold.
Orange Fritters. — (1) Peel the Oranges, cut them in halves,
pick out the seeds, and with a sharp knife scrape off all
Oranges — continued.
the white pith ; put them in a basin together with some
caster sugar and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of brandy, and
leave them for an hour or two, afterwards draining them
on a sieve. \\ arm and beat 2oz. of butter, beat also the
yolks of two eggs, mix them together with the butter in
fib- of flour, and stir in gradually with a wooden spoon
sufficient tepid water to mix the whole into a smooth
batter. \\ bisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow,
and mix them lightly with the batter at the last moment.
Put a large piece of lard or clarified fat into a flat stew-
pan, and place it over the fire until boiling; dip the pieces
of Orange into the batter, coating them well, and fry in the
boiling fat until nicely browned. Then take them out,
and put them on a sheet of kitchen paper in front of the
fire to drain for a minute or two. Sinead a folded napkin
or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the
fritters upon it, sift caster sugar over (see Fig. 53), and
serve.
(2) Peel the Oranges, remove all the white pith, and divide
them carefully into quarters. Make the following syrup :
Beat the white of an egg into 1 i, pints of water, pour it
into a sugar-boiler, together with 21b. of loaf sugar, and
boil, removing the scum as it rises, and adding occasionally
a few drops of cold water until clear ; boil for a few minutes
longer, and strain through a tammy. Make some goad
frying batter, dip the Oranges first in the cold syrup and
then in the batter, put them into a stewpan in which
some fat should be ready boiling, and fry them until nicely
browned. Drain the fritters on paper to absorb the fat as
much as possible, place them on a hot dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, sift caster sugar over them, and serve.
Oranges Frosted and Glace. — Peel nine go id sized ripe
and sweet Oranges. Carefully scrape off all the white and
separate the sections from one another, being careful not
to break the skin. Mix Goz. of powdered white sugar
together with a few drops of liquid cochineal, spread it out on
a plate, and dry it in the sun. If it gets lumpy in drying,
roll it to powder again between two sheets of paper with
a rolling pin. Whisk the whites of three eggs in 3 dessert-
spoonfuls of water to a stiff froth; have the coloured sugar
ready on a plate, and Goz. of powdered white sugar on
another plate. Dip one-third of the pieces of Orange in
the white of egg, then roll them in the red sugar, and lay
them on a sheet of paper to dry. Dip another third of the
pieces in the white of egg, and roll them in the white
sugar. Put Hoz. of gum arabic over the fire together with
3 table-spoonfuls of hot water, stir till the gum is melted,
add fib. of powdered white sugar, and continue stirring till
it forms a clear thick glue. Then stand it in a pan of
hot water, and dip the remaining third part of the pieces
of Orange into it. Lay a stick along a flat dish and lean
these pieces against it to dry. When all are dry, arrange
them in a glass dish, and garnish them with orange- or
lemon-leaves.
Orange Gin. — (1) Put 2galls. of gin in a large vessel with
41b. of loar sugar and the strained juice and peel of thirty
large Seville Oranges. Put 1 pint of milk in a small
lined saucepan over the fire, and when boiling skim and
pour it at once into the gin. Leave the gin for eight or
ten days with the cover on the vessel, excepting when taken
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
39
Oranges — continued.
off to stir it, which should be done every day. At the
end of that time strain the liquor through a jelly-bag,
bottle it, and cork tightly. It is then ready for use. The
Orange-peel that was used for the gin makes a capital
flavouring for puddings.
(2) Peel off as thinly as possible the yellow rinds of
twelve Seville Oranges and eight lemons. Put the rinds
in a large earthenware jar with 31b. of loaf sugar and lgall.
of gin, cover the jar, and let the contents infuse for three
months, shaking them thoroughly every day. At the end
of that time strain the gin and pour it into bottles. Pack
the bottles away in a dry cellar, and in a few months’
time the gin will be ready for drinking, but it is greatly
improved if kept for a year or two.
(3) Put the peels of six large Tangerine Oranges and six
Seville Oranges — both cut oil' very thinly — into a bowl con-
taining lgall. of unsweetened gin, and add a piece of
sugar together with 20 drops of essential oil of Orange
dropped on to it. Let this stand for four days, then strain
it into another bowl. In the meantime put 31b. of pounded
sugar candy into a sugar boiler (see Culinary Utensils),
and pour over 3 pints of water and the juice of a dozen
Oranges. Clarify it, add it to the gin, shake it up, and
when it has stood for four days pour it into bottles, cork
down, and store for use.
Orange Granite Ice. — Remove the peels from half-a-dozen
or so Oranges, cut them up into quarters, and take out
the inner pith and pips. Place them in a basin, pour over
3 pints of syrup at 20deg. ( see Syrups), let them remain
for a couple of hours, then take them out and put them on
a strainer to drain. Pass the syrup through a sieve into the
freezer ( see Ices), and when frozen to icicles add the drained
quarters of Oranges, and cover. Let it remain twenty
minutes longer, then serve in glasses or cups.
Orange Honey. — Put |lb. of sugar and 2oz. of butter into
a saucepan together with the grated rinds and juice of two
Oranges, and the juice of two lemons. Stir well over the
fire, and when boiling add the yolks of three eggs, the
white of one, and a little rose-water ; remove the pan to the
side of the fire and continue stirring until the mixture has
the appearance of melted cheese. It is then done, and may
be used for filling tartlets or spread over layers of cake.
Orange Jelly. — (1) Dissolve l|oz. of gelatine in £ pint of
boiling water, and strain it. Squeeze the juice out of a
sufficient number of Oranges to fill three teacups and suffi-
cient lemons to fill one teacup ; mix the juices together,
strain them, and add them to the dissolved gelatine.
Sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, and boil the whole for
a few minutes. Clarify the jelly with the whites of two
eggs and their shells beaten together, and strain it through
a jelly-bag. Rinse a mould out with cold water, pour the
jelly into it, and leave until set and cold. When ready to
serve, turn the jelly on to a fancy dish.
(2) Grate the rinds of six Oranges, three sweet and
the remainder bitter ; also grate the rinds of two large
lemons. Strain the juice of four sweet and four bitter
Oranges and three lemons. Put 6oz. of loaf sugar into a
saucepan together with H teacupfuls of cold water, the
juice and peel, and boil it until very thick. Mix lqt. of
clear isinglass jelly in with the above, boil it up again, and
strain it. Leave the jelly for a few minutes to settle, then
pour it carefully from the sediment at the bottom into a
jelly-mould. Leave it in a cool place until quite set, then
turn it on to a fancy dish, and serve.
(3) Put lib. of coarsely- crushed loaf sugar into a stew-
pan with 1 pint of water, and boil it until dissolved ; then
put in the thinly-pared yellow rinds of four Oranges and
two lemons; boil it a few minutes longer, then skim, add
the juice of eight Oranges, and boil for twenty minutes.
Next mix with the syrup 1 pint of calf's-foot jelly and the
juice of a lemon. Peel two or three sweet Oranges, trim
oil' all the white pith and skin, core them, cut them into
slices, and pick out all the seeds. Pour a layer of the jelly
into a mould, and when it has set put in a layer of the
Oranges ; cover these with a layer of jelly, and proceed as
before until the mould is full. Stand it in a cool place
until ready to serve.
Oranges — continued.
(4) Dissolve ljoz. of isinglass in h pint of water, mix with
it 1 pint of strained Orange-juice, the rind and juice of one
lemon, and fib. of loaf sugar ; pour the whole into a sauce-
pan, and stir it over the fire until boiling. Strain the
jelly through a piece of muslin, rinse a mould out with
cold water, pour in the jelly, and set it in a cool place.
When set and cold, turn the jelly on to a glass dish, and
serve.
Orange Julep. — Put 1 wineglassful of Orange cordial into
a large glass, mix in a little lime-juice, fill up with ice,
arrange on top a little mint and a few slices of Orange,
sprinkle over with sugar, and serve with straws.
Orange Lemonade. — Rub off some of the peel from three
China Oranges and one large lemon on 3oz. of loaf sugar ;
put it into a jug, squeeze in the juice, and pour in lqt. of
boiling water. When quite cold, strain the liquor through
a fine sieve and serve it.
Orange-and-Lemon Syrup. — Make lqt. of syrup with loaf
sugar and water, and let it get cold. Peel the rind thinly
off one dozen Oranges and half-a-dozen lemons, put it into
a large stone jar, and pour in the syrup. Squeeze the
juice out of the Oranges and lemons, mix it with 3 pints
of water, and strain it through a silk tammy. Put the
strained juice, with 4tlb. of coarsely-crushed loaf sugar,
into a preserving-pan, and boil it until reduced to a syrup ;
strain the syrup from the peels, mix it with the other
syrup, and boil both together for two or three minutes.
When cool, pour the syrup into bottles, cork them down
tightly, and put them away for use.
Orange Liqueur. — (1) Select six perfectly sound Seville
Oranges, wipe them over with a damp cloth to remove
any impurities, taking great care not to break the peel ;
lay them in a large stone jar with Mb. of sugar candy,
pour over them igall. of the best French brandy, then
cover the jar with bladder, and tie down securely. Leave
it for two months, shaking the jar well once every week.
At the end of that time strain off the liqueur, and bottle
it for use.
(2) Put the thinly-pared rinds of twelve Seville Oranges
and six lemons into a large jar with 31b. of sugar candy
that has been pounded, and lgall. of gin. Steep the
rinds for four days and nights, stirring every day ; at the
end of that time, strain the liquor through filtering-paper,
bottle it, and cork tightly. Pack the bottles away in a
dry cellar. The liqueur will not be ready for use until the
expiration of a year.
(3) Take four Seville Oranges and stick eight cloves into
each ; put these Oranges into a jar, and pour over them
lgall. of strong spirits. Cover the jar closely, and let it
stand for two months, stirring it six or eight times during
that period. Clarify and boil 5lb. of sugar to syrup ( see
Sugar-boiling), and when the Oranges have been in the
spirits for two months, filter the spirits through paper, mix
the syrup with it, and bottle, being careful to cork well.
(4) Put into bottles or jars 21b. of finely-chopped bitter
Orange-peel and 4oz. of ground coriander-seeds ; pour in
94qts. of spirits of wine 60deg. over proof, keep the bottles
in a warm place, and shake them daily for a month.
Pour off the spirits, add to the bottles tRqts. of water,
let it remain for a few days, pour it off, pressing out as
much as possible, add it to the spirit, together with 4qts.
of capillaire and a little yellow colouring to give it a deep
colour, filter through flannel, and bottle.
Orange Lozenges. — Put loz. of picked gum dragon or
prepared gum into a basin with 2oz. of Orange-flower water,
let it soak for six or seven hours, and then squeeze it
through a cloth on to a marble slab. Work it well with
the flat of the hand until it is clear and quite elastic, and
add gradually 1 Mb. of icing sugar and 2oz. of Orange sugar.
A little blue ( see Colourings) should also be added to give
it a very white appearance. Dust the slab over with
caster sugar, roll the paste out to about Jin. in thickness,
stamp it out with a tin cutter in the shape of lozenges,
arrange them on a baking-sheet well dusted with caster
sugar, and put them in the screen to dry. Place in bottles
or tins, and they will keep for a long time.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die,, referred to, see under their special heads.
40
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued.
Orange Marmalade. — (1) Squeeze out all the juice from
the selected quantity of Seville Oranges, and strain it ; poui-
over the pul]) of the Oranges just as much water as will
cover them, and let them steep for an hour. After-
wards strain the liquor off the Oranges and mix it with
the juice. For each quart of juice allow 31b. of loaf
sugar ; make a syrup with the sugar, boil it to the bubble
(see Sugar-boiling), mix in the Orange-juice, and boil it
for about fifteen minutes, keeping it well skimmed. Turn
the marmalade into pots, and when cold cover and tie
them down.
(2) For every pound of Seville Oranges allow 21b. of
coarsely-crushed loaf sugar. Cut through the rind of each
of the Oranges with a sharp knife, put them in a pre-
serving-pan with soft water to cover, and stew over a
gentle fire until a straw will easily pierce through the
skin ; pour in more water as it boils away, as the Oranges
must lie kept covered. Drain the water into a basin, cut
the rinds oil' the Oranges with a silver knife, and chop them
into small shreds ; squeeze the pulp of the Oranges through
a coarse cloth into the water they were boiled in, put the
liquor and peel into a clean preserving-pan, add the sugar,
and boil the whole gently for half-an-hour, or until it
will jelly when cold. When ready, turn the marmalade
into jars, leave it until cold, then cover and tie down.
(3) Peel 21b. of bitter Oranges and one sweet one, and
squeeze the pulp and juice into a basin, taking care to
remove the pips. Cut the peel into small pieces, and pour
over 4qts. of water. The peel of a lemon cut into little
bits should also be added, as it is a great improvement.
Let it remain for a day, then pour it into a preserving-
pan, and boil for three hours, when it should be quite
transparent. Pour it back into the basin, let it stand
for another day, and return it to the pan with Ijlb. of
crushed loaf sugar to each pint of the juice. Boil for
half-an-hour, turn it into jars, and it is ready for use.
(4) Take a dozen or two Seville Oranges, cut them in
halves, take out the skin and pulp, and boil the rinds in
plenty of water, changing it two or three times. When
the rinds are quite soft, take them up, drain, and let them
cool. When well drained and quite cold, cut them into
thin shavings. Scrape the pulp out of the skin, and pick
out the pips. Weigh the peel and the pulp, and allow to
each pound lib. of loaf sugar. Put the pulp and sugar
together into a preserving-pan over the fire, let it boil
gently to a syrup, add the peel, and boil gently for half-
an-hour. Take it from the fire, let it cool a little, put into
glass jars, and cover air-tight.
(5) This is the best kind for puddings. Put twelve
Seville Oranges into a saucepan of cold water, and boil
until tender, changing the water two or three times, but
each time adding boiling, and not cold, water, as at
first. When ready, take them out, drain them, cut off
their rinds, and pound in a mortar ; then add it to the
pulp — without skin or seeds — and juice, and mix in sugar
in the proportion of 21b. to each pound of fruit. Turn all
into a jar large enough to more than hold it, and let it
ferment a little. Tie down, and it will keep good for
years, and requires no boiling. The finest moist sugar
should be used.
(6) Dundee. — Take two dozen Seville Oranges, cut the
peel of eight of them and the peel of two lemons into
small dice, and stew this chopped peel in water till it
becomes quite tender. Peel the other sixteen Oranges,
and cut the whole twenty -four into slices, removing the
pips. Put the slices of Orange, together with their own
juice and the juice of six lemons, over the fire in a pre-
serving-pan, and boil them to a smooth mass. Rub this
through a colander, but be as quick about it as possible,
for fear of spoiling the colour ; put it back again over the
fire, add 81b. of loaf sugar, and keep it boiling quickly,
stirring constantly till quite thick. Drain the water from
the chopped rinds, add them to the boiling marmalade,
stir in well, and boil for two minutes longer; then take the
pan from the fire, let the marmalade cool a little, and put
it into jars. When quite cold, lay a piece of white tissue
paper dipped in brandy on top of the marmalade in each
jar, and tie down.
Oranges — continued.
(7) Florida. — Take twelve good-sized bitter Oranges
and two good juicy lemons. Grate the rinds off six of the
Oranges, and to this add the juice only of the two lemons.
Peel off and throw away the thick white rinds of the
grated Oranges ; take all the rinds off the other six, and
throw them away. Weigh the peeled Oranges, and to
every pound allow lib. of sugar. Put the sugar, rind,
and lemon-juice in a pan on the stove to boil ; mean-
while get the pips and white skin from the pulp and juice
of the Oranges, and add this juice and pulp to the boiling
sugar and lemon- juice. Let it boil very slowly till a little
of it put in a saucer jellies as it cools, then remove it from
the stove, let it cool a little, and put it into jars. When
quite cold, lay in each jar, on top of the marmalade, a
piece of white paper soaked in brandy, and close the jars
air-tight with paper dipped in white of egg slightly beaten,
but not to a froth.
Orange-Marmalade Pudding. — (1) Baked. — Trim the skin
and discoloured pieces off £lb. of beef-suet, and chop it
very fine ; put it into a basin with 1 heaped breakfast-
cupful of finely-grated breadcrumbs and -1 breakfast-cupful
of caster sugar. Beat four eggs well together with 1 tea-
cupful of milk, then mix them with the above ingredients,
and beat for nearly twenty minutes. Thickly butter the
interior of a mould, put in a layer of the mixture,
then a layer of Orange marmalade, and continue putting
in alternate layers of mixture and marmalade until the
mould is full, making the last layer of the mixture.
Put the pudding in a moderate oven, and bake it from
Fig. 54. Orange-Marmalade Pudding.
one-hour-and-a-half to two hours. When cooked, turn the
pudding out of the mould on to a hot dish, and serve with
Orange sauce over it (see Fig. 54), and some separate in
a tureen.
(2) Butter a pie-dish, and line it with a good puff1 paste ;
put 4oz. of fresh butter in a stewpan with 3 table-spoon-
fuls of finely-chopped Orange marmalade, the juice of a
small lemon, 4 well-beaten eggs, and sugar to taste. Stir
the mixture over the fire with a wooden spoon until
boiling, then pour it into the lined dish. Bake for three-
quarters-of-an-hour in a brisk oven, and serve either hot
or cold.
(3) Mix 2 breakfast-cupfuls of stale breadcrumbs with
1 breakfast-cupful of moist sugar, turn them into a pie-
dish, and spread over them a thick layer of Orange mar-
malade. Beat two eggs well with 1 pint of milk, pour it
carefully into a dish over the other ingredients, grate a
small quantity of nutmeg on the top, and bake the pudding
in a moderate oven. When set and lightly browned,
take it out of the oven, and serve.
(4) Beat up four eggs well, and mix them with Iqt. of
milk ; then sift in lightly, stirring at the same time,
sufficient Hour to make a nice light batter, add a small
quantity of salt, and if at all lumpy pass the batter
through a fine hair sieve. Spread a thick layer of Orange
marmalade in a pie-dish, pour in the batter, and bake for
nearly three-quarters-of-an-hour in a brisk oven. When
cooked, stand the dish containing the batter on a flat
dish, and serve while hot.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , SaiXces , d'c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
41
Oranges — continued.
(5) Add to 3 table-spoonfuls of Orange marmalade -[-lb.
of pounded white sugar, 3 table-spoonfuls of sifted bread-
crumbs, the beaten yolks of six and the whites of three
eggs, 4oz. of butter melted to oil, and 1 gill of cream.
Mix all these well together. Line a dish with puff paste,
pour the pudding into it, and bake in rather a quick
oven.
Orange-Marmalade Sauce. — Put 1 breakfast-cupful of
Orange marmalade into a stewpan with 2 wineglassfuls of
white wine, and place it over the fire until boiling. Strain
the sauce through a fine hair sieve, and it is then ready
for serving.
Orange-Marmalade Souffle. — Mix \ teacupful of arrow-
root perfectly smooth with 4 pint of water, stir it over
the fire until thickened and boiling, then mix in 1 heaped
teacupful of Orange marmalade and sugar to taste. Beat
the mixture until somewhat cooled, then beat in, one at
a time, the yolks of eight eggs. Whisk the whites of ten
eggs and stir them in lightly at the last. Turn the
Fig. 55. Orange-Marmalade Souffle.
mixture into a mould, and bake it in a quick oven. When
nicely risen and browned over the top, take the souffle out
of the oven, dust it over with caster sugar, pin a napkin
round the mould (see Fig. 55), and serve at once.
Orange Meringue. — Thoroughly wash and pick over 4 lb.
of the best rice, put it into a saucepan with plenty of
Fig. 56. Orange Meringue.
Oranges — continued.
the centre, and strain the syrup over. Whisk the whites
of the three eggs to a stiff snow with 2 table-spoonfuls of
caster sugar, and spread it over the Oranges (see Fig. 56).
Dust a small quantity of caster sugar over the whole, and
bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve on the
same dish.
Orange Mould. — Peel five or six large Oranges, scrape
off' all the white pith, and divide them into quarters, being
careful not to break the skin. Put ilb. of loaf sugar into
a stewpan with 1 teacupful of cold water, and boil it to
the crack. Butter a mould, dip the quarters of Oranges
in the syrup, and arrange them round the sides, putting
them closely together, and leave until cold. Pick care-
fully over equal quantities of fresh strawberries, rasp-
berries, and currants. Whip 1 pint of cream to a stiff
froth, turn the shape formed by the Oranges out of the
mould on to a fancy dish, fill it with the fruit, pile the
whipped cream on the top, and serve. If carefully arranged,
the above makes a very elegant dish.
Orange Nougat. — Mix together l|lb. of strained honey, 11 lb.
of confectioners’ sugar, and a small quantity of water ; put
it over a moderate lire and let it cook till a little of it
thrown into cold water is brittle. Stir in then the well-
beaten whites of three eggs, and continue to stir till the
mixture forms a stiff paste; then work in 2 table-spoonfuls
of Orange marmalade and 1 pint of almonds, blanched and
cut small ; the grated rind of an Orange or two may also
be added. Spread the nougat on oiled papers, lay it between
two boards, and when cold cut it into square pieces.
Orange Paste. — The Oranges should be previously steeped
in water for two or three days. Afterwards put them into a
saucepan with fresh water, and boil until tender. Drain
the Oranges, cut them into halves and scoop out the
insides. Put the peel in a mortar, allowing for each
pound lib. of caster sugar, and beat it until smooth.
Remove the skin and seeds from the pulp, pound it with
an equal quantity of caster sugar, and add to the pounded
peel. Put the paste into pots and tie them over till wanted.
To make a pudding with the above paste, put Jib. of butter
in 4 breakfast-cupful of boiling water and leave it until
cool. Afterwards mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls of the paste,
three well-beaten eggs, and 2oz. of caster sugar ; thicken
it by stirring in 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, mixing it
perfectly smooth. Butter a shallow dish, and line it with
a good puff paste ; fill it with the Orange paste, and bake
in a moderate oven. This pudding is equally nice eaten
either hot or cold.
Orange Pastille Drops. — Put 3Joz. of coarsely-sifted sugar
into a saucepan, stir in 4oz. of water, and add |oz. of Orange
sugar. Put the pan on the fire, and stir well ; when the
sugar begins to dissolve, remove the pan from the fire, stir
for a minute or so longer, and then proceed as follows :
Hold the pan with the left hand, pour the mixture out slowly,
using a piece of bent wire to cut off the drops about the
size of peas, arranging them in rows close together upon a
sheet of stiff paper ; when they are set, turn the paper upside-
down, damp it, and let the pastilles drop from it. Put
them on a sieve over a slow fire, shaking now and then.
When quite dry, bottle and cork them down securely, and
keep in a cold dry place until wanted.
Orange-peel Chips. — Put the peels of several Oranges in a
saucepan, first cutting them into small equal-sized pieces,
water, and place it over the fire. When the water boils,
drain it o f the rice, and pour in its place lqt. of milk,
add Jib. of crushed loaf sugar and the thinly pared rind
of one lemon, and stew the rice gently at the side of the fire
until almost dry. Peel the rind off six Oranges, and put
it into a saucepan with some thick syrup made with loaf
sugar and a small quantity of water ; place the lid on, and
let the rinds steep for twenty minutes at the side of the
fire. Trim off all the white pith of the Oranges, and
remove their seeds, by coring them like apples. When
the rice has cooled, mix with it the beaten yolks of three
eggs ; put a layer of the rice on a flat dish, pile the
remainder up to form a kind of wall, place the Oranges in
cover with water, and boil. When soft, drain, and lay
them on a sieve until dry. Put fib. of lump sugar in a
saucepan with just as much water as it will absorb, place
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
42
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued,.
it over the fire until it comes to the boil, then move to the
side, and let it simmer for a few minutes. Put the pieces of
peel in a bowl, pour the boiling syrup over, and leave
them until the following day ; then drain the syrup off the
peel, and boil it until reduced to the proper consistency.
Pour the syrup over the peel again, leave it until the follow-
ing day, then drain off, and boil it up again. Proceed in this
manner until all the syrup is absorbed. Lay the pieces of
peel apart from each other on wire sieves, and leave them
in a cool place until dry. Serve in small glass dishes
(see Fig. 57).
Oranges Preserved in Brandy. -Take some well-shaped
smooth-skinned Oranges, prick them in the middle, and
lay them in cold water; then blanch in boiling water, and
when tender put them again into cold water. After they
have been a short time in cold water, take them out
and give them seven or eight boils in sugar boiled to
the small thread (see Sugar-roiling). Skim them, take
the pan from the fire, and let the Oranges remain in the
sugar all night. Put them over the fire again next day,
boil up seven or eight times, skim them, and take the pan
from the fire ; when the Oranges are sufficiently cooled,
take them out of the sugar, put them into jars, and pour
over equal quantities of brandy and the syrup. Cover or
cork them air-tight.
Orange Pudding. — (1) Baked. — Put lqt. of milk over the
fire in a saucepan. Beat very light the yolks of five eggs
and the whites of two together with jib. of sugar. When the
milk gets very hot, but before it boils, pour it over the
beaten eggs and stir well together, adding the grated yellow
rind of an Orange ; then pour it into a buttered pudding-dish,
put it into a pan of boiling water in the oven, and bake.
Beat the whites of three eggs and two table-spoonfuls
of powdered white sugar to a stiff froth, and when the
pudding is done take it out of the oven, spread this froth
over, and return it to the oven for two or three minutes to
harden the froth.
(2) Peel a quantity of Oranges, remove all the white
pith, cut them in slices, put them in a stewpan with
plenty of sugar, and stew over a gentle fire. Mix 2 table-
spoonfuls of arrowroot in a pan with 3 or 4 table-spoonfuls
of cold water, then stir in gradually 1 pint of boiling
milk, sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, and stir over the
fire until boiling and thickened. Next move the arrow-
root to the side of the fire and stir in the beaten yolks
of four eggs. Butter a pie-dish, spread the Oranges at the
bottom, put three or four very thin slices of bread-and-
butter over them, and pour in the arrowroot custard. Put
a few small pieces of butter about on the top, strew over
plenty of moist sugar, and bake in a quick oven. When
nicely browned on the top, take out the pudding, and
serve hot or cold.
(3) Put the grated rinds of an Orange and lemon into
a basin and squeeze in their juice, taking out all the pips
and seeds. Place jib. of butter in a pan, and stir in an
equal quantity of sugar, working until it creams. Add
three well-beaten eggs, and mix in gradually 1 table-
spoonful each of brandy and wine, 1 teaspoonful of rose-
water, and the orange and lemon mixture. Line a pudding-
pan with some puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake
in a moderate oven for lialf-an-hour. When done, sprinkle
with caster sugar, and serve.
(4) Put the peel of a Seville Orange into a saucepan of
water, and boil until tender ; pound it in a mortar, and
add the juice from the Orange, two grated Naples biscuits,
8oz. of slightly-warmed butter, and 4oz. of caster sugar.
Mix thoroughly, and stir in the well-beaten yolks of six
eggs. Put some puff paste round the edge of a dish, pour
in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for half-an-
hour.
(5) Make a puff paste of 4oz. of butter, 5oz. of flour, and
as little water as possible. Roll it out into a round piece,
thin in the centre and thicker towards the edges, and just
the size to line a soup-plate. Put it into a buttered soup-
plate, press it to its shape, and with a knife trim from
the edges any superfluous paste ; press the edges down
smooth, and crimp or notch them. Put the paste into a
Oranges— continued.
cold place till the pudding is ready. Place 4oz. of powdered
white sugar into a pan or basin, cut up into it 4oz. of
fresh butter, and if the butter is very cold and hard put
the pan or basin near the fire for a few minutes to soften
it, but do not let it melt or the pudding will be spoiled.
Beat the butter and sugar together with the back of a
wooden spoon till it is quite light and of the consistence
of cream. Whisk three eggs till they are about as thick as
a boiled custard, add them by degrees, and stir them in
to the beaten butter and sugar. Mix together 1 table-
spoonful of white wine, 1 table-spoonful of brandy, and 1
teaspoonful of rose-water, and add them by degrees to the
other ingredients, stirring well all the time. Then stir in
by degrees the grated rind of one lime, the grated rind of
a large deep-coloured Orange, and the strained juice of
both the Orange and the lime. Stir all very well together,
and carefully put the pudding mixture into the soup-plate
lined with puff paste, place it in a moderate oven, and
bake for thirty minutes. After taking it from the oven,
dredge powdered white sugar over it, and serve either hot
or cold.
(6) Grate the rind of a Seville Orange in a mortar, and
put in with it a small chopped apple, and 4oz. each of
butter and caster sugar ; pound the whole until quite
smooth, and pile the paste in a shallow dish ; whisk the whites
of four eggs to a stiff snow, spread them over the top of
the Orange paste, and bake in the oven. When the
whites have well risen, take the pudding out of the oven,
and serve without delay.
(7) Peel the rinds off two Oranges as thinly as possible,
put them into a mortar, and pound until smooth. Mix with it
4oz. of caster sugar, the yolks of six eggs, and the strained
juice of one lemon. Beat the mixture with a wooden spoon
for about twenty minutes. Whisk the whites of the eggs to
a stiff froth, and stir them lightly in with the above mix-
ture ; turn the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake
it for about a-quarter-of-an-hour in a brisk oven. When
cooked, serve the pudding without delay.
(8) Peel half a dozen Oranges, cut them in slices and
pick out all the pips, put them in a deep dish, and sift
plenty of caster sugar over. Put 14 breakfast-cupfuls
of milk in a lined saucepan with a piece of Orange-
peel, and place it over the fire to boil. Mix 1 table-
spoonful of cornflour smoothly with j breakfast-cupful of
cold milk, then stir in the boiling milk, and remove the
Orange-peel. Pour the whole into the saucepan, and stir
it over the fire until thickened and boiling, then move it
to the side, and stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs.
Pour this mixture over the slices of Oranges. Whisk the
whites of the eggs to a still' froth together with 2 table-
spoonfuls of caster sugar, spread them over the top of the
pudding, and put it in the oven until set. Serve hot or
cold.
(9) Rub about eight stale penny sponge cakes into
crumbs, put them in a basin, and pour over 1 pint of
boiling milk. When well soaked, mix with them the
strained juic.e of six Oranges and the grated yellow rinds
of four, sweeten to taste with caster sugar, and beat the
mixture well ; whip six eggs thoroughly, and stir them
into the above ingredients. Butter a pie-dish, line it with
a good puff paste, put the above mixture in it, and
bake for three-quarters-of-an-hour. When cooked, sift
some caster sugar over the pudding, and serve.
(10) Take three good-sized Seville Oranges, cut the peel
off thin, squeeze the juice from them, and strain it. Boil
the peels in plenty of water till perfectly soft, then
pound them in a mortar with lib. of powdered white sugar.
Beat the yolks of nine and the whites of four eggs, and
mix them with the pounded Orange-peel ; add jib. of butter
melted to oil and the juice of the Oranges, and mix all
thoroughly. Line a dish with some rich puff paste, pour
in the pudding mixture, and bake for thirty minutes.
(11) Warm jib. of butter without oiling it, and beat it
until creamy together with jib. of caster sugar ; beat the
yolks of ten eggs, mix them with the beaten liutter and sugar,
and squeeze in the juice of three Seville Oranges. Blanch
and skin 4oz. of sweet almonds, put them in a mortar, and
pound, adding occasionally a small quantity of Orange-
Fur details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
43
Oranges — continued.
flower water ; put the almonds and the grated peel of one
of the Oranges in the above mixture and stir the whole
well together. Butter a pie-dish, line it with a thin crust,
fill it with the mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve
the pudding either hot or cold.
(12) Boiled. — Take 4lb. of lady’s fingers or Savoy biscuits,
and crumble them fine; pour over 1 pint of cold milk and
let them soak a little. Beat loz. of butter to a cream
with 2oz. of powdered white sugar; whisk four eggs very
light with another 2oz. of sugar, and beat in butter and
eggs together to the soaked biscuit-crumbs, then stir in
1 table-spoonful of cornflour blended with a little cold
water. Have a saucepan of boiling water ready on the
fire, butter a pudding-tin, and mix quickly into the pudding
the strained juice of two Oranges, the grated rind of one,
and the strained juice of a lemon; pour the pudding
into the tin at once, cover it, and plunge it immediately
into the boiling water. Boil for an hour, turn it out, and
serve hot with sweet brandy sauce.
(13) Finely chop 6oz. of shredded beef-suet, put it in
a basin, and mix with it 6oz. of finely-grated bread-
crumbs, 6oz. of flour, the grated peel of two small Seville
Oranges, and the strained juice of three ; add 1 teaspoonful of
baking-powder, two well-beaten eggs, and sufficient milk to
mix the whole into a light paste. Butter a pudding-basin,
turn the mixture into it, tie a floured cloth over the top, put
it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for an-liour-and-
a-lialf. When cooked, turn the pudding out of the basin
on to a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of sweet
sauce.
(14) Pour 1 pint of cream over Jib. of Naples biscuits
(see Biscuits), and beat it into a paste with a little sugar
to taste. Put the grated peel of two Seville Oranges into
a mortar, pound them, add the biscuits and cream, and
stir in lastly six well-beaten eggs. Pour it into a buttered
mould or well-floured pudding-cloth, put it into a saucepan
of boiling water, boil for an hour, turn it out on to a dish,
pour over some sweet sauce, and serve.
(15) Boston Style. — Beat 3oz. of butter and 6oz. of
sugar to a smooth cream, and mix in the whisked yolks of
five eggs, the grated yellow rind of one Orange, and the
strained juice of two ; then add, a handful at a time, 41b.
of sifted breadcrumbs alternately with spoonfuls of the
whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and stir in lastly
2 table-spoonfuls of self-raising flour. Put the batter as
quickly as possible into a buttered pudding-tin, cover it,
leaving room for the pudding to swell, plunge it at once
into boiling water, and let it boil for two hours. For the
sauce beat 3oz. of butter to a cream with 4lb. of powdered
white sugar, mix with it the strained juice of one lemon,
1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and the white of an egg
beaten to a stiff froth ; whisk all these very well together,
stir it over the fire for a few minutes, pour part of it over
the pudding, and serve the rest in a small tureen.
Orange Puffs.— prate the rinds of three Seville Oranges and
strain their juice ; put the rinds into a mortar with lib.
of caster sugar and about 3oz. of butter, and pound them
into a smooth paste, then mix in the strained juice. Roll
the paste out on a marble slab, and with a tin cutter cut
it into rounds. Lay them a short distance from each other
on baking-sheets over which has been spread a sheet of
white paper, and bake in a rather slow oven. When cooked,
pile the putt's on a dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, dust them over
with caster sugar, and serve.
Orange Ratafia. — Take half-a-dozen thick-skinned Seville
Oranges, cut off the yellow rinds as thinly as possible,
and put them in a jar. Cut the six Oranges into halves,
squeeze the juice from them, strain it, and add it to the
peels in the jar; put in lib. of powdered white sugar and
stir in the Orange-juice ti l quite dissolved, then pour over
it 2qts. of brandy. Close the jar air-tight, let the liquor
stand for a month, strain it, put it into bottles, and cork
them well.
Orange Ratafia Pudding Meringue.— Peel fifteen sweet
Oranges and two large lemons ; with a sharp knife remove
all the white pith from the Oranges and lemons, and divide
Oranges — continued.
them into quarters. Put the fruit in a basin, strew plenty
of caster sugar over, and let it stand for an hour or two.
Next pass the pulp through a fine hair sieve, and mix with
it the grated rinds of two lemons and three Oranges, and
4 wineglassful of Orange-flower water. Cut some stale
sponge cakes into slices; butter a pie-dish, put in a layer
of the cakes, baste them with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of
warmed butter, then spread a layer of the Orange pulp over
them ; cover with another layer of sponge cake, baste with
more butter, then put in another layer of pulp, and so on,
until the dish is three-parts full, putting a layer of ratafia
biscjiits on the top. Beat the yolks of four eggs up with
1 pint of milk, sweeten to taste with caster sugar, add 1
wineglassful of brandy and a small quantity of ratafia,
turn it into a lined saucepan, and stir over the fire until
thickened but not quite boiling, or the eggs will curdle.
Pour the custard over the pudding, and put it in the oven.
Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar with the whites of
the eggs and whisk them to a stiff froth. When the pudding
is baked, take it out, spread the whisked whites of eggs
■■ ■
Fig. 58. Orange Eatafia Pudding Meringue.
over, and put it back in the oven for a few minutes until
the meringue is set. It may be served either hot or cold.
The meringue should not lie browned at all when taken
out of the oven. See Fig. 58.
Orange-and-Rice Meringue.— Scald 41b. of rice, drain it,
and put it in a saucepan with I pint of milk, the thinly-
pared rind of one lemon, and Jib. of loaf sugar. Keep the
rice simmering gently at the side of the fire until tender.
Leave the rice until cold, then remove the lemon-peel, and
beat in the yolks of four eggs. Peel off the yellow rinds
as thinly as possible from a number of Oranges, and make
a thick syrup with loaf sugar and a small quantity of water.
Put the Orange-peel in and let it infuse at the side of the
fire for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Scrape off
all the white part of the peel from the Oranges and core
them in the same manner as apples are done to remove the
pips. Cut the Oranges into halves, spread, the rice out on
a dish (one that can be served at table and will stand the
heat of the oven should be used), lay the halves of Oranges
on the rice, and strain the syrup over them. Beat the
whites of the four eggs to a stitt' froth together with 1
table-spoonful of caster sugar, and spread them over the
Oranges. Put them in a slow oven and bake for twenty
minutes. Serve either hot or cold.
Orange Salad.— (1) Peel half a-dozen Oranges, scrape off
all the pith, and cut them into slices. Take out the pips,
put a layer of the slices on a dish, and sprinkle over them
some caster sugar and a little brandy or rum. Continue
in this way until they are all used up, and serve. They
may be piled in the shape of a pyramid.
(2) Peel eight or nine Oranges, cut them into slices Jin.
thick, and free them of the pips and white pith in the
centre. Put them in a deep dish with what juice may
have run from them when they were cut, the rind of one
Orange, and some caster sugar, cover with another dish,
and stand them in a cool place for a few hours. When
ready for the Oranges, arrange them in a glass dish, the
slices overlapping each other. Mix 14 wineglassfuls of
brandy or ram with the syrup, strain it over the Oranges,
and serve.
Orange Sauce.— See Bigakade Sauce, page 31, vol. ii.
Orange Sherbet— (1) Put 1 table -spoonful of gelatine in a
little cold water to soak, and then pour over 1 breakfast-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, d-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
44
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges — continued.
cupful of boiling water to dissolve it. Turn it into a basin
with the juice of ten large Oranges, and add 2 breakfast -
cupfuls of sugar and 3 breakfast-cupfuls of water. Mix
well, and when quite cold it is ready for use. The juice of
a lemon may be added if the Oranges are too sweet.
(2) Put 3 breakfast-cupfuls of sugar into a saucepan with
3 pints of water, and boil for thirty minutes; add the
strained juice of twenty large Oranges, strain it, pour it
into a freezer, and it is then ready.
(3) Take two lemons and nine Oranges, wipe them quite
clean, grate the yellow rinds, and then squeeze the juice
on to the grated rinds. Make a syrup of lqt. of water and
1 fll). of sugar, and mix it with the juice and grated rinds.
Strain it through a hair sieve, pour it into a freezer, and
freeze.
(4) Squeeze one lemon and six Oranges, strain the juice,
and add to it a small quantity of grated Orange-rind.
Make a thick syrup of 141b. of loaf sugar and pour it
hot over the Orange- juice and peel, then add sufficient
boiling water to make the quantity of sherbet 3qts.
Stand it in ice-water to cool, and then put it in the freezer.
Beat the whites of two small eggs to a stiff froth, and stir
them well into the sherbet while it is freezing. When
frozen quite hard, re-pack with ice, and cover till required
for use.
Orange Shrub. — Boil 101b. of loaf sugar in 2galls. of water,
skim it well, and when the sugar is quite dissolved put it
into a tub ; let it cool, and when quite cold pour it into a
barrel; add to it 3qts. of Jamaica rum, Ingalls, of strained
bitter Orange-juice, and the beaten white of an egg. Let
it stand for a week, then bottle it.
Orange Snow. — Soak loz. of gelatine in h pint of cold
water for four hours, then add to it the grated rind of
half a lemon, the grated rind of an Orange, the strained
juice of one lemon and four Oranges, and 41b. of powdered
white sugar; stir well together and let the mixture stand
for an hour. Add 1 pint of boiling water, and continue
Stirling till clear; then strain it through a coarse cloth and
wring it thoroughly. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff
froth, and when the liquid is quite cool whisk them into it
by degrees, and continue whisking till quite thick and white.
Fig. 59. Orange Snow.
Wet the inside of a mould with cold water, and pour the
snow into it. Let it stand in a cool place for eight hours
at least before turning it out, then pile it up on a glass
dish, and garnish round with sweet biscuits. See Fig. 59.
Orange Souffle. — Mix 1 table-spoonful of flour smoothly
into 1 pint of cream, add to it 2 table-spoonfuls of rose-
water, and put it over the fire hi a saucepan with a little
thinly-pared Orange-peel and a little cinnamon ; stir till
it boils, then take it from the fire. Strain, and add suffi-
cient powdered white sugar to sweeten it. Let it stand
till cold, and then mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls of mar-
malade and six eggs beaten well with 1 wineglassful of brandy.
Pour it into a well-buttered mould, stand it in a saucepan
of boiling water, and let it boil for an-hour-and-a-quarter
without any cover over it.
Orange Sponge.— (1) Stir loz. of isinglass in 1 pint of boil-
ing water until dissolved, then strain and leave it until
cold. Strain the juice from six large Oranges and one
Oranges — continued.
lemon, mix it with the isinglass, and add the beaten whites
of four eggs and Jib. of caster sugar. Whisk the whole
until it looks like a sponge, then put it into a mould
and keep it in a cool temperature for several hours. When
ready, turn the sponge on to a glass or fancy dish, and
serve.
(2) Put loz. of gelatine in a stewpan with 1 pint of
water, and place it on the fire until dissolved. Rub 4oz.
of loaf sugar over the rinds of two Oranges, and put it in
with the gelatine; squeeze in the juice of the Oranges, and
when the sugar has dissolved strain the jelly into a basin.
Leave it until half cold, then beat it with an egg-whisk
until a thick froth. Pour the mixture into a mould, and
keep it on ice or in a cool temperature until quite set.
When ready to serve, turn the sponge on to a glass dish.
Orange Sugar. — Take a large piece of loaf sugar, and with
it grate the yellow rinds off some good Oranges, being
careful to grate only the yellow part, without any' of the
white. As the surface of the sugar becomes coloured with
the rind, scrape it off, and continue grating rind and scrap-
ing off' the coloured sugar till as much sugar is scraped
off as required. Then put it in a stove or lay it at the
mouth of an oven and let it dry. When perfectly diy,
sift it through a fine sieve.
Orange-Sugar Sand. — Sift some granulated sugar in order
to free the granules from sugar dust, and then put it into
a pan with a little double distilled Orange-flower water ;
rub the colouring evenly through it with both hands, and
let it dry slowly in a drying-oven, rubbing it occasionally
between the hands, and bottling when quite dry. Another
way of making it is to nib lump sugar on the rind of an
Orange, and scrape it off as it turns yellow ; or candied
Orange-blossoms may be pounded and mixed with powdered
loaf sugar. The sugar must be bottled closely, whichever
method is adopted.
Orange Syrup. — (1) Squeeze out the juice from some ripe
sweet Oranges, put it into a saucepan, and add 1 Alb. of
sugar to each pint of juice. Boil slowly, skimming
frequently. Remove it from the fire when done, let it
cool, and pour into bottles for future use. It gives a line
flavour to custards, and a little of it mixed in melted
butter makes an excellent sauce for puddings.
(2) Peel nine bitter and three sweet Oranges, putting
the peel into a saucepan with 14 pints of water as fast
as it is taken off, and boil for fifteen minutes. Strain the
liquor into another saucepan, add 24 lb. of loaf sugar, and
boil gently for half-an-hour, skimming frequently. Squeeze
out the juice from the Oranges, adding a little water to
make it up to H- pints, pour this into the sugar, and
boil gently for forty-five minutes, skimming frequently.
When it is as thick as honey, it is done, and ready
for use.
(3) Rub off the zest rind (yellow skin) of four bitter
Oranges on lumps of sugar, scrape it off the sugar, and
put it into a pan containing lib. of sugar made into syrup
at 32deg. ( sec Syrups). Let it remain for six hours, then
add 1 breakfast-cupful of Orange-juice, as well as the
juice of two lemons. Stir well, pour it into bottles, cork
them down tightly, fasten with wire, stand them in a
saucepan of cold water, and boil gently for six minutes. Take
them out, and when cold seal the corks and put them in
a cold cellar in a leaning position until wanted.
Orange Tart. — (1) Warm, but not oil, 6oz. of butter, and beat
it well together with 6oz. of caster sugar; then mix in
the beaten yolks of six eggs. Butter a shallow pie-disli and
line it with puff paste. Cut 6oz. of candied Orange-peel into
thin slices, and lay them on the paste. Pour in the beaten
mixture, cover with a flat of pull paste, trim it off neatly
at the edges, moisten them, and pinch them together. Put the
tart in a quick oven, and bake it for an hour, or a little
longer. When cooked, sift caster sugar over the top of the
tart, and serve.
(2) Put the grated rinds of two Seville Oranges into a
deep saucepan, squeeze in the juice, and add yb. of butter
and nine eggs slightly beaten. Put the pan over the fire
and stir continually until the mixture is of the consistence
of melted cheese; take the pan off the fire, and beat the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Sec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
45
Oranges — continued.
contents vigorously until a wire whisk for a few minutes.
Have ready a flat dish lined with puff paste, or some small
tartlet-pans, pour the mixture in, and hake in a very slow
oven until done. Very little heat is required for this; it
will burn if great care is not taken, therefore it is quite
as well to cook the paste first.
Orange Tartlets. — (1) Peel off the rinds of one dozen sweet
Oranges, quarter them, and take out the core ; boil them
for about three minutes in a small quantity of sugar and
water, and put them on a sieve to drain. Boil the juice
that runs from them and the liquor they were boiled in to
a syrup. Have ready some shells of pastry baked in patty-
pans. Put the Oranges into the hot syrup for a few
minutes, but do not let them boil, lay them in the shells
of crust, and just before serving pour the syrup over.
(2) Boil lib. of coarsely- crushed loaf sugar in a small
quantity of water until reduced to a thick syrup ; pare
the yellow rinds thinly off some Oranges, put them into
the syrup, and let them infuse for a short time, but with-
out boiling again. Butter as many patty-pans as will be
required, line them with some good puff paste, fill them
with uncooked rice, place in a moderate oven, and bake.
With a very sharp knife trim off all the white pith from
the Oranges, also core and pick out all the pips. Cut them
in halves, put them in a basin, strain their syrup over,
and place them in the oven for a few minutes until hot.
When the tarts are cooked, empty out the rice, take them
out of the tins, put half an Orange in each, and pour some
syrup over them. Spread a folded napkin or a lace-edged
dish-paper over a dish, lay the tarts on it, and serve them
with cream.
(3) Rub loz. of butter in 8oz. of flour, and when smooth
mix in 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar, 1 saltspoonful of
salt, the beaten yolks of three eggs, the white of one, and
a sufficient quantity of milk to mix the whole into a
smooth paste. Roll the paste Jin. in thickness out on a
floured board, line some buttered patty-pans with it, fill
them with uncooked rice, and bake in a moderate oven.
Put the thinly-pared rinds of five or six Oranges into some
thick boiling syrup, and let them infuse at the side of the
fire for half-an-hour. Trim off all the white pith from
the Oranges, core them like apples to remove the pips,
cut them in halves, and put them in a stewpan ; strain
the above syrup over them, and let them heat slowly at
the side of the fire, but do not boil them. Empty the rice
out of the patties, take them out of the tins, put half an
Orange in each case, and pour in a little of the syrup.
Arrange the patties on a dish garnished with a folded
napkin or a fancy-edged dish-paper, and serve. They are
also very nice served cold with cream.
(4) Butter some small-sized patty-pans, line them with
puff paste, fill them with uncooked rice, and bake, keeping
them a light colour. Peel the Oranges, and cut them into
slices ; put 4oz. of loaf sugar in a saucepan with 1 tea-
cupful of water, and boil it to a syrup ; then put in 1
or 2 table-spoonfuls of minced Orange-peel, and boil the
whole for five minutes. Afterwards add 1 liqueur-glassful
of brandy with the syrup, pour it while hot over the
Oranges, and leave them until cold. When the paste is
cooked, empty out the rice, leave them until cold, then fill
them with the cold Oranges ; ornament tastefully on the
top with blanched almonds. Spread a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper over a dish, arrange the tartlets on
it, and serve. If they are preferred hot, they should be
put in the oven a short time before serving, and decorated
with the almonds afterwards.
Orange Tonic.— Cut off the rinds from six Seville Oranges,
peeling them very thinly, put it into a jar, and pour over 1
breakfast-cupful of brandy. Shake it frequently for a month
or so. Drain off the liquor into a bottle, and when it is
quite clear and bright it is ready for use. One teaspoonful
in a wineglassful of sherry is sufficient to use at a time.
Orange Trifle. — (1) Soak ioz. of gelatine in J pint of cold
water for four hours, then add to it the grated rind of
one Orange and the strained juice of two. Pour in i, pint
of boiling water, stir till the gelatine is quite dissolved,
putting it over the fire if necessary, then strain it and
Oranges — continued.
stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stand the bowl
the gelatine is strained into in a pan of boiling water
over the fire before adding the beaten eggs, stir con-
stantly till the mixture thickens, then pour it into another
bowl and let it get quite cold ; when it begins to stiffen,
mix in 1 pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Wet the
inside of a mould, pour the trifle in, and set it on ice ;
when very cold and well set, turn it out.
(2) Peel some Oranges and with a sharp knife remove
all the pith and seeds, dividing the fruit into quarters;
put them in a basin, strew' plenty of caster sugar over,
and leave them for an hour or two in a cold pdace. .
Sweeten 1 pint of thick cream to taste with caster sugar,
strain in the juice of half a lemon, and flavour it with
. Orange brandy ; whip the cream vigorously, and as the
froth rises skim it off and pilace it on a sieve. Pass the
Oranges through a fine wire sieve on to a glass dish, pile
the frothed cream on the top, and keep it in a cool place
until the time of serving.
Orange Water-Ice. — (1) Put the juice of four Oranges and
the grated rinds of three into a basin with 1 breakfast-
cupful of water, and add the juice of three lemons and 1
paint of syrup* ; stir well, then pass it through a fine sieve
into a mould ; pack it in ice, freeze (see Ices), and when
quite set turn it out on to a dish, and serve.
(2) Put 1 teacupful of sugar into 1 gill of boiling water,
and when melted add it to Iqt. of the strained juice of
Oranges. Pour it into a mould packed in ice, freeze it,
and it is ready for use.
(3) Put lib. of sugar into a sugar -boiler and make it
into a thick syrup with the addition of a little water.
Add three Oranges peeled and pulled into quarters, with-
out injuring the thin skin more than to extract the pips.
Put the grated zest of three more Oranges and their
strained juice into a basin. Take the pieces of Orange out of
the syrup, p>ut them in a basin on the ice, pour the syrup
over the zest and juice, and add 3 punts of water and the
juice of one lemon ; pour it into a freezer (see Ices), and
when nearly set add the whites of four eggs whipped to a
froth, and beat well until it has the consistence of cream.
When quite firm, add the pneces of Oranges, taking care not
to break them, turn it into glasses or cups, and serve.
Orange Whey. — This is a pdeasant drink, and is made by
putting the juice of an Orange into 1 pint of milk, and
warming it up until curds form ; it must then be strained,
and when quite cold is fit for use.
Orange Wine. — (1) Put 231b. of loaf sugar into a saucepan
with lOgalls. of water, boil it, and clarify with the whites
of six eggs. Put the pieel of one hundred Seville Oranges
into a howl, pour over the boiling syrup), and add the
strained juice of the Oranges and 1 breakfast-cupful (about
6oz.) of fresh yeast. Let it stand for four days or so, pour
it into a barrel, bung it loosely, and in a month’s time pour
in 4 punts of brandy. Bung it up) securely, let it remain
for about three months, and it will be fit for use. The
brandy may be omitted.
(2) Take off the peel from forty Seville Oranges, cutting
it as fine as possible; put it into a bowl, p>our 4 gall, of
boiling water over, and let it stand for a coupfie of days.
Squeeze in the juice through a strainer, wash the remains
in lgall. of water to extract all the goodness, add it to the
juice, and pour into the bowl with the p)eel. Add 15lb. of
loaf sugar, make the quantity of liquor up to 5galls., pour
it into a cask, one that has had brandy in it for preference,
stir daily for seven days, and then mix in l pint of fresh
yeast. When it has fermented for about a fortnight, bung
up the cask securely, and in a year’s time it will be in
excellent order for drinking.
(3) Clean some Seville Oranges by rubbing them gently
with a wet cloth; take a sharp knife, pare off the yellow
peel very thin, squeeze the Oranges, and strain the juice
to get rid of the pips (it should be strained through a
rather fine sieve, as some of the pips are extremely
small); then measure it, and to each 3galls. of juice add
91b. of sugar, the whites and shells of three eggs, and lgall.
of cold water. Crush the egg-shells very small, put them
together with the water and the whites of the eggs into a
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oranges— con tinned.
frequently. Take them out, put them on a sieve, set in
the sun to dry for a couple of da s, wipe them, pack care-
fully in a jar, sprinkling over ioz. each of mustard- and
coriander-seeds, |oz. of chillies, and 2oz. eacli of bruised
white ginger and white peppers. Pour over sufficient vinegar
to cover, let them stand for three weeks, add more vinegar
to make Tip for that absorbed, and in six weeks’ time the
pickle will be ready for use, but if left for six months it
will be considerably better. Before serving, they should be
cut first in halves and the halves in quarters, and the two
different coloured skins of the Oranges will give a very
pretty effect.
46
Oranges — continued.
vessel over the fire, and stir every minute-and-a-half or
so till the egg begins to harden ; boil till the syrup looks
clear under the froth of egg that will form on the surface,
then pour the syrup on the Orange-peel and let it stand
till the next day. Add the Orange-juice, again let it
stand all night, next day strain it anil put it into a cask,
adding loz. of dried yeast to every Sgalls. of wine. Take
the bung out of the cask and keep it out until the fermenta-
tion ceases, then close the cask by driving the bung tightly
in. It is an improvement to add 1 wineglassful of brandy
for each gallon of wine just before driving in the bung.
Let the wine stand nine months and then bottle ; three
months after it is bottled it is fit for use. A hissing noise
continues as long as the wine is fermenting; when the
noise ceases, fermentation has stopped, and the cask may
be closed.
(4) Boil 4galls. of water until reduced one-third, then
leave it until cool. Peel five Seville Oranges, put them
into a tub with 151b. of chopped Malaga raisins, pour over
them 2|galls. of the reduced water, first making it warm,
.and leave them for five days, stirring well two or three
times each day. At the end of that time, strain the liquor
through a line hair sieve, pressing the raisins and Oranges
to extract as much of the juice as possible. Put the liquor
into a cask with the thinly-pared rinds of five more Oranges.
Squeeze and strain the juice out of the ten Oranges, put
it into a stewpan with ill). of loaf sugar, and boil until the
sugar has dissolved, then pour it into the cask and bung
tightly. Leave the wine for two months, then bottle.
(5) Put 5galls. of spring water into a large tub with
5lb. of Malaga raisins and 101b. of honey ; mix well, and
add 3oz. of cream of tartar, and set it to ferment. When
nearly completed and in its last stages, add the juice and
peels of 5lb. of Oranges, let it stand for a few days, pour
off the clear liquor, and bottle. Refined sugar in equal
weight may be used instead of the honey. The longer
the wine is kept, the better it will be.
Orangeade. — (1) Squeeze the juice from a do. en Oranges,
pour some boiling water on the peel, and cover closely.
Boil 1 pint of water and 111), of sugar to a thin syrup,
and skim it. When all are cold, mix the juice, the infu-
sion, and the syrup, with as much water as will make
a rich drink. Strain through a jelly-bag.
(2) Put the thinly-pared rinds of four Oranges into a
jug, pour 1 breakfast-cupful of boiling water over them,
stand a plate on the top, and let it infuse until cold.
Make 1 pint of thin syrup with loaf sugar and water,
keep it well skimmed while boiling, then strain and leave
it until cold. Squeeze the juice out of eight large Oranges,
strain it, and mix with the syrup and the liquor from the
peels. Strain the whole through muslin, mix 1 wineglass-
ful of brandy with it, ice it, and serve.
(3) Put | pint of syrup at 32deg. ( see Syrups) over
the strained juice of a dozen Oranges. Prepare an infusion
made of the thin peel of four Oranges and another gill
of the syrup. Stir them both in together, add lqt. of
water, put the jar containing it on the ice, and freeze.
(4) Put the thin peel of six Oranges into a basin, and
steep them in lqt. of syrup at 35<leg. Mix the juice of
the Oranges with the juice of three lemons, and pass it
through a jelly-bag. Pour the syrup into a sieve over a
basin, stir in the filtered juice, and add igall. of water,
and it is ready for use.
Orangeade Powder. — Rub off the rinds of six Oranges
with llh. of loaf sugar, pound it in a mortar, sift it, and
dry in the hot closet. Mix in 2oz. of cream of tartar, and
bottle. A teaspoonful to 1 tumblerful of water is sufficient.
Orangeade with Wine. — Rub the zest (rind) off two Oranges
with sugar, scrape it off with a knife into a basin, pour over
1 breakfast-cupful of hot syrup, and add it pint of white
wine and the strained juice of four Oranges. Strain it
through a very fine sieve or tammy cloth, let it get
perfectly cold, and it is then ready for use.
Pickled Oranges. -Wipe a dozen or so Oranges, having half
Seville and half St. Michael’s if possible ; rub them well with
salt, put them into a bowl with sufficient salt to cover,
and let them remain for five days, giving them a turn
Preserved Green Orange-peel. — Scrape the insides out of
the Oranges, put the peel in cold water, and let them
remain in it for three days, changing the water each
day. After this, put them in fresh water in a pan over
the fire, let them simmer till the water is bitter, then take
them out, and plunge them into fresh boiling water. Let
this water cool with the Oranges in it, remaining till
the next day. Place them in fresh water, and boil till
the water is bitter ; put them into fresh boiling water,
and let them remain as before, repeating this every day,
till the bitterness is extracted from the rinds. Then take
them from the fire, and put them into a sieve to drain.
Add sufficient loaf sugar to the last water they were boiled
in to make a thick syrup ; when this is cold, put the
Orange-peel into it, and let them stand all night. Next
day boil them in the syrup, and let them stand all night.
Continue this till they are green and tender, then put
them into jars, and cover with paper dipped in brandy.
Preserved Oranges. -(1) Weigh some Seville Oranges and
allow rather over their weight of coarsely-crushed loaf
sugar ; scrape them very lightly, and score them round
and round, but without cutting through to the fruit.
Steep them in cold water for three or four days, changing
the water two or three times daily. Afterwards tie the
Oranges loosely in a large cloth, plunge them into a sauce-
pan of water, and boil. When the head of a pin will
easily penetrate through the peel, drain the Oranges, put
the sugar into a preserving-pan with 1| pints of cold water
for every pound, boil it until dissolved, and then strain it
through muslin. Put the Oranges in the preserving-pan,
pour the syrup over them, and boil until reduced to a
thin jelly and nicely tinged with yellow; if the syrup does
not completely cover the Oranges, turn them occasionally
so that every side gets cooked the same. Put the Oranges
carefully into glass jars, and pour an equal quantity of the
syrup in each jar. Leave them until cold, then put in each
jar a round of white paper that has been dipped in brandy,
cover with parchment, and tie down tightly. Keep them in
a diy store-cupboard.
(2) Squeeze out the juice from some bitter Oranges, cut
the peel in halves, put them into a pan of salted water,
and let them remain for three days or so. Take them out,
drain, cut each piece again into halves, and with a sharp
knife scrape out all the white part. Cut the quarters of
peel into small pieces, put them into a saucepan with
sufficient water to cover, and boil for a few minutes.
Strain off the liquor, put the peel into weak syrup, and let
it remain for two or three days, then put it into
stronger syrup, and continue in this way until the peel is
thoroughly soaked with the syrup. The last time the peel
should be boiled with the syrup, and when done turned
into jars until wanted.
(3) Select some Seville Oranges of a uniform size, make
a cut about lin. long in the sides, put them in a sauce-
pan with a good supply of water, and boil. The water
should be frequently changed to take oft' the bitterness,
and care must be taken that the Oranges do not burst in
cooking. When they are tender, place them on a sieve,
let them drain for twelve hours or so, then put them into
a saucepan with some weak syrup, and simmer gently for
an hour. Take them out, drain, put them into another
saucepan with some thicker syrup, and simmer until they
are nearly transparent. Add a little brandy to the pan,
put the Oranges with the syrup into jars, cover them over
when cold, and they are ready for use.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces, dtc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
47
Oranges — continued.
(4) Select bitter Oranges with a clear skin, make a
small hole at the stalk end, and scoop out all the pulp.
Put them into a basin of salted water, let them remain
for four days, then take them out, drain, put them into a
saucepan of water, and boil. When they are sufficiently
done, so that a straw can easily be pushed through them,
put them into a basin of cold water. Take them out,
drain free from water, and remove any part of the pulp
that may be adhering to them. Put them into an earthen-
ware pan, and pour over sufficient boiling syrup to cover ; let
them remain in this for five days, drain them, boil up the
syrup again, adding a little more each time, and continue
in this way until the syrup has penetrated the peel. Put the
Oranges into jars, cover when cold, and they are ready for use.
(5) Peel a dozen sweet or bitter Oranges, and with a
sharp knife remove every particle of the white pith. Put
8oz. of loaf sugar in a saucepan with f breakfast-cupful
of water, the juice of two large lemons, and the thinly-
pared rind of one, also the rind of one of the Oranges.
Boil all until reduced to a very clear syrup, then strain it,
colour with a few drops of cochineal, and pour it over
the Oranges. When quite cold, arrange the Oranges in
a glass dish, pour their syrup over them, and serve. They
make a very pretty dish.
(6) Select a dozen moderate-sized Oranges, and pierce a
small hole at one end of each near the stalk ; scoop out
all the seeds, and squeeze the juice into a basin, but leave
the pulp inside the Oranges. Steep them in plenty of
cold water for three days, changing the water each day.
Strain the juice as soon as it is squeezed out, pour it into a
jar, stand the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and
leave it on the fire for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Next put
the juice into a lined pan with 21b. of loaf sugar, and boil
it to a syrup ; then pour it into a jar, cover with bladder
while hot, and tie down. At the end of the third day
put the Oranges into a preserving-pan with the water
strained over them, and leave over the fire until boiling ;
move them to the side and keep them simmering gently
for two hours. At the end of that time move the pan
away from the fire, and leave the Oranges and liquor
iu it until the following morning. Boil the Oranges again
until tender, put in 21b. of loaf sugar, boil them up again,
and leave until cool. Next day boil the syrup up, and put in
the fruit with 2lb. of loaf sugar and sufficient boiling water
to cover them well. Remove the Oranges, and boil the syrup
up once every day for a fortnight, pouring it hot over the
fruit each time. When the fruit looks clear and bright, boil
the syrup up once more with the juice of the Oranges, and
skim it well. Place the Oranges carefully in wide-mouthed
bottles, pour the syrup over them, seeing that they are
well covered, put bladder over, tie them down, and store
away in a dry cupboard.
Preserved Oranges Stuffed Cornish Style. — Grate lib. of
Naples biscuits and mix with them Jib. of blanched almonds;
slightly warm 4oz. of butter and beat it well with 3 table-
spoonfuls of caster sugar and the yolks of four eggs. Stir
this mixture in with the dry ingredients and beat all well
together, adding a few drops of Orange-flower water. Fill
some preserved Oranges with the mixture, strew caster
sugar over, put them on a baking-dish, and bake in a slow
oven. Leave the Oranges until cold, then arrange them
tastefully on a glass dish, putting a border of green vine-
leaves round the edge of the dish, and serve.
Preserved Seville Oranges. — Steep the Oranges in water
for one night, then drain, put them in a pan with fresh
water, and boil. When tender, which can be ascertained
by running a quill through them, drain, cut them into
halves, and remove the pips. Allow 1 til), of lump sugar
for every pound of the Oranges, and 1 pint of water for
every four Oranges. Boil the Oranges in the syrup, and
when sufficiently done take them out ; for every pint of
syrup squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and boil it until
thickly reduced. Put the Oranges in jars, and when the
syrup is cold pour it over them. ' Tie them down and keep
in a dry store-cupboard for use.
Tangerine-Orange Biscuits.— Put the yolks of fourteen
eggs into a basin with lib. of caster sugar, 1 pinch of salt,
Oranges — continued.
and any kind of flavouring preferred, and beat them well
till creamy. Whisk the whites of the fourteen eggs to a
stiff froth, then mix them with the ydlks, adding gradually
at the same time 4toz. of Indian cornflour or potato-flour,
and 44oz. of the finest wheat-flour; mix the batter till
perfectly smooth. Butter some baking-dishes, then dredge
them with flour, and shake off all the superfluous; fill a
biscuit-forcer with the mixture, and lay it out in pieces
the shape and size of half a Tangerine Orange; sift
caster sugar over the biscuits, and bake them till lightly
browned. When cooked, join the halves of biscuits together,
using Orange marmalade for the purpose, then coat
them thickly with Orange marmalade, and glaze them
over with transparent icing. Put the biscuits in a screen
to dry for a few minutes; cut some pieces of angelica to
imitate the stalks, and stick one in the end of each biscuit.
These biscuits, when nicely arranged in a glass or fancy
dish, make an excellent addition to a dessert-table.
Tangerine-Orange Jelly. — Squeeze the juice out of fifteen
Tangerine Oranges, two Seville Oranges, and two small lemons.
Put fib. of loaf sugar with 3oz. of isinglass into an ena-
melled saucepan with a small quantity of cold water,
and stir it over the fire until dissolved ; then put in a
small piece of Seville Orange-peel, the peel of a lemon, and
the juice. Boil the whole for a few minutes, then strain it
through a jelly-bag. Rinse a mould out with cold water,
fill it with the jelly, and stand it in a cold place. In
making the jelly, sufficient water should be used with the
juice to make the whole a quart. When quite set and
cold, dip the mould quickly into hot water, wipe it, turn
the jelly on to a dish, and serve.
Tincture of Oranges. —Add I gall, of over-proof plain spirit
to lib. of ground dried Orange-peel, let it infuse for a
fortnight, and bottle. The best way of treating the peel
is to cut round the Oranges and, with the handle of a
spoon for a scoop, take off the halves of rind ; put them
to dry in the sun or in a cool oven with the door open,
and let them remain until crisp.
Orange-flowers. — Although it is almost impossible to
grow Oranges in this climate, the flowers (see Fig. 60)
can be produced in great profusion in ordinary green-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i t-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
48
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Orange-flowers — continued.
houses; and the perfume of flowers so grown is nearly as
strong as that of those grown in warmer climates. The
flowers of the Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius (see
Fig. 61) — erroneously called Syringa, which name pro-
perly belongs to the lilac — are sometimes substituted
for Orange-flowers, which they closely resemble both in
smell and appearance. Orange-flowers are candied or
crystallised by steeping them in candy sugar, and drying
as described under Gandy and Crystallising.
Orange-flower Biscuits. — Mix Jib. of sifted crushed loaf
sugar with the well- whipped whites of three eggs and loz.
of finely-chopped candied Orange -flowers. Have ready
several small paper cases fin. in width and of the same
height, half fill them with the mixture, dust them over
with caster sugar, put them in a damp place to melt the
sugar, then place them in a slow oven, and bake until
they have slightly risen and are of a good colour. Turn
them out of the cases, and they are ready for serving.
Orange-flower Bonbons in Cases. — Put 12oz. of loaf sugar
into a sugar-boiler and boil it to 38deg. (see Syrups).
When it is cool, grain it with a spatula until it is
perfectly white; then add loz. of candied Orange-flowers,
working them well in, fill some paper cases with the
mixture, and put them in the hot closet to dry ; they are
then ready for use.
Orange-flower Cakes. — Put lib. of caster sugar into a
stewpan with a sufficient quantity of Orange-flower water
to dissolve it, and boil until clear ; bleach 1 handful of
Orange-flowers in water and lemon-juice, squeeze them well
in a cloth, and when the sugar is ready put the flowers in
it. Whip the white of one egg well together with about
1 table-spoonful of cold water, and when the flowers have
burst stir it quickly in with them. When the sugar rises,
take it oil' the fire, pour it into small fancy-shaped moulds,
and stand them in a cool place.
Orange-flower Candy Tablets. — Put lib. of loaf sugar
into a sugar-boiler, and boil it to the ball degree (see
Sugar-boiling) ; add 1 table-spoonful of Orange-flower
water, a few drops of acetic acid, and work the sugar
against the sides of the pan with a spatula to grain it.
When sufficiently white, pour it into tablet-moulds slightly
masked with oil of almonds, place them in the screen to
dry, and let the tablets remain for lialf-an-hour, when they
should be quite brittle and ready for use.
Orange-flower Cheese. -Put 1 handful of Orange-flowers
into 1 breakfast-cupful of boiling milk, and when cold
strain through a fine sieve and mix it with 1 pint of thick
cream. Put the basin or bowl containing it on the ice,
and whip it continually until quite thick. Add some
Orange-flowers —continued.
dissolved isinglass, and sweeten with caster sugar. When
the mixture is of the required consistence, pour it into
a mould, freeze, turn it out, and serve.
Orange-flower Conserve. — Clarify lib. of sugar and boil
it to the feather (see Sugar-boiling), then take it from
the fire, and stir in I table -spoonful of Orange-flower water.
When this is well mixed with the sugar, put it over the
fire for a minute or two, and pour the mixture while
warm into shallow paper cases. When cool, cut it into
small cakes.
Orange-flower Cream.— (1) Put 1 pint of milk into a
saucepan with 1 pint of cream, boil them, and add a little
salt and caster sugar. Sprinkle in a few Orange-flowers,
boil up, add the yolks of ten eggs, and thicken it over
the fire. Put in a little dissolved isinglass, stir well,
pour the mixture into a mould, freeze, and it is then
ready to serve.
(2) Put six whole eggs and the yolks of four into a
basin, and whisk them well ; then add 3 teacupfuls of cream,
6 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, 1 pinch of Orange-flowers,
and 1 small pinch of salt. Peat the mixture for ten
minutes longer, or till the ingredients are thoroughly in-
corporated, then pass it through a fine hair sieve into a
pie-dish. Stand the pie-dish in a tin with a small quantity
of hot water, put it into a slack? oven, and leave it till the
cream sets. Take the dish out of the oven, stand it on
another flat dish, and serve the cream while hot.
Orange-flower Custard Fritters. — Put loz. of caster
sugar in a sugar-boiler, stir it over the fire till of a dark
brown colour, then pour in 2 table-spoonfuls of water and
1 table spoonful of Orange flower water. Beat the yolks
of eleven eggs together with 4 table-spoonfuls of caster
sugar and the browned sugar when quite dissolved. Con-
tinue beating the eggs, and pour in gradually 1J pints of
boiling milk. When well mixed, strain the custard through
a fine silk sieve. Butter eight teacups, fill them with the
mixture, stand them in a saucepan with boiling water,
taking care that the water does not reach to the tops of
the cups, put the lid on the saucepan with some hot coals
over, and poach them. Leave the custards till cold, then
turn them out of the moulds and cut each into three slices.
Dip each piece into a frying-batter, put them in a pan of
hot fat, and fry. When done, dredge the fritters with
caster sugar and glaze them under a salamander. Pile
the fritters on a fancy-edged dish-paper or a folded napkin
on a hot dish, and serve.
Orange-flower Drops. — Sift some crushed sugar, first through
a coarse sieve and then through a fine one ; take about
21b. of the coarsely-sifted sugar, put it into a basin, and
stir in with a spoon, adding gradually sufficient Orange-
flower water to give the paste such a consistence that it
will drop from the spoon without leaving any adhering to
it. Turn this paste into a sugar-pan with a spout or lid
to the right side, set the pan on the stove, and stir the
contents with a spatula until the sugar is dissolved and
makes a slight noise, but taking care not to let it boil.
When on the point of boiling, remove the pan from the
stove with the left hand, and with a piece of bent wire
in the right cut up small equal-sized lumps, and let them
drop on thick cartridge-paper or a smooth tin. Set them
away in a dry closet for about twro hours, remove them
from the paper or tin, by damping or easing with a knife,
and pack away in bottles or boxes for use. A little essence
of neroli and water may be substituted for the Orange-
flower water if desired.
Orange-flower Julep. — Mix in a pint glass 1 wineglassful
each of Orange-flower water and syrup, and a few drops
each of cloves and lemon, fill up the glass with broken
ice, and arrange any kind of fruit on the top. Serve with
straws.
Orange-flower Liqueur.-— Slightly bruise lib. of freshly-
gathered Orange-flowers, put them into a warifled bottle
or jar, add a few green leaves of the Orange- plant, pour
over 2qts. of over-proof spirit, then add 41b. of sugar
pounded in the mortar in which the flowers were bruised ;
also add the thin rind of a lemon ; cork tightly, give the
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils t~Sauces , &c.. referred to , see under their special heads.
ARTISTIC FLORAL DECORATIONS.
• — Arrangement oe Ferns and Ivy to go the length
of Buffet or Side Table, Electric Lights or Fairy
Lamps interspersed.
.—Floral Centre-piece for Table or Buffet, made up
of sunflowers, irises, foxgloves, grass, &c.
3. Ball-Shaped Floral Ornament, consisting of
sunflowers, poker-plants, foxgloves, ivy, and grass,
to hang from Chandelier or Centre of Ceiling-
ornament, between Columns, or other suitable
place in the Hall or Boom.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
49
Orange-flowers — con tinued.
bottle a vigorous shake, and let it stand for a month.
Filter and bottle for use.
Orange-flower or Neroli Flavouring. — The oil of Orange-
flowers, a very fragrant aromatic, frequently used in
lemonade, although Orange flower water is better.
Orange-flower Pastilles. — Pound some dried Orange-flowers
to powder, and then pound with them some gum dragon
dissolved in equal quantities of water and Orange-flower
water. Add and mix in powdered white sugar till the
paste is sufficiently thick, make it into lozenges or drops,
and dry them.
Orange flower Pralines. — (1) Take some perfectly fresh white
Orange- flowers, pick them, and lay them in cold water.
Take double the weight of the Orange-flowers in loaf sugar,
clarify it, and boil to the blow ( see SUGAR boiling) ; put
in the flowers, having drained them from the water, stir
them till the sugar again reaches the blow degree, then
take the pan off' the tire, but continue stirring till the sugar
separates from the flowers and turns to powder ; set the
pan on a stove till the pralines are dry, and lay them on a
sieve that the loose sugar may sift away from them. Put
the flowers into bottles and keep them in a dry place.
(2) Well wash and dry 61b. of Orange-flowers, put them
into a saucepan with 31b. of sugar boiled to the blow
degree (see Sugar-boiling), then reduce the sugar to the
feather degree, taking care that the flowers are continually
covered. Remove the pan from the fire, and continue to
stir until the sugar grains, then put the flowers in the hot
closet to dry, rubbing them frequently with the hands and
mixing them up with ab rut lib. of sifted crushed loaf
sugar, so as to enlarge and whiten them. Put them into
bottles, cork down securely, and they are ready for use.
Should they be required very white and large, when they
have been cooked in the sugar tv rn them out on a sieve
to drain, then put them on a sheet of paper, and mix them
with about Hlb. of caster sugar. Place them in the hot closet
to dry, stirring frequently, and when quite dry, bottle, and
cork them up for future use.
Orange-flower Puffs. -Prepare a good pancake batter and
mix with it sufficient Orange-flower water to flavour nicely
and moist sugar to taste ; put a lump of butter into a
frying-pan, and when it boils pour in a layer of the batter,
Fig. 62. Orange-flower Puffs.
and fry like pancakes. When all the batter is used, dust
the puffs over with caster sugar, put them on a hot dish
oyer which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper (see Fig. 62), and serve.
Orange-flower Punch for Weddings. -Put 1 liqueur-
glassful of noyau into a bowl packed in ice, stir in 1 pint
of lime-juice syrup, next add 1 tumblerful of Orange-flower
water (distilled), the same quantity of elder-flower water,
and lqt. of thin syrup. When these are well incorporated,
pour in 2 bottles of soda-water, and serve immediately.
Orange-flower Souffle. -Put a little flour into a basin and
work it into a thin paste by adding milk and cream in
equal proportions Turn it into a saucepan, boil it, and
when the flour is done sprinkle in a little caster sugar
and salt, and mix in a small quantity of pounded dried
Orange-flowers. Stir in a lump of butter, the yolks of six
eggs- and when they are well mixed add the well-whipped
whites, of the six eggs, pour it all into a souffle-dish, and
bake in a moderate oven. When done, sprinkle over a
little sugar, salamander it, and serve quickly.
Orange-flowers — continued.
Orange-flower Sugar. — Put |lb. of candied Orange-flowers
into a mortar with lib. of sugar, pound well, pass it through
a fine sieve, put it into bottles, cork, and it is ready for
use when required.
Orange flower Syrup. — (1) Boil Hlb. of loaf sugar to the
large pearl (see Sugar-boiling). Put lib. of picked Orange-
flowers into a basin, pour the boiling syrup over them ;
put a plate over the basin, and let the contents infuse for
a few hours, afterwards draining off the syrup. Boil another
1 till, of loaf sugar to the large pearl, and pour it while
boiling ov er the Orange-flowers in the basin. Let them
infuse for the same length of time as before, then strain
ofl' the second lot of syrup and mix it with the first. When
quite cold, filter the syrup, pour it into bottles, and cork
them tightly.
(2) To every \ pint of Orange-flower water mix 14oz.
of granulated sugar, and stir constantly till dissolved.
Strain and bottle the syrup.
Orange-flower Tablets.— For every 41b. of Orange flowers
use 21b. of double-refined sugar ; clarify the sugar, and boil
it to the feather (see Sltgar-BOIling). Cut up the Orange-
flowers, moisten them with lemon-juice to preserve their
whiteness, put them in the sugar, boil it again to the
feather, then move the pan off the fire. In five minutes’
time, stir the sugar and work it well against the sides of
the pan until it becomes glossy, then stir it gently into
the centre. Pour the syrup into a shallow pan that has
been lined with stout cartridge-paper, and when it has
cooled a little mark it with a knife into tablets. When
quite cold, break the tablets apart where marked, and put
them in bottles or tins for use.
ORDINARY.— This term is applied to a dining-room
or eating-house (hence to the meal itself) where a meal is
prepared for all comers at a fixed price for the whole
service; being thus distinguished from a meal where each
dish is charged separately, or a, la carte.
ORGEAT.— This name was taken from the French
orye, and signified therefore little else than medicinal
barley-water, which was sometimes flavoured with lemon
or almond, the latter flavour obtaining the greater popu-
larity. By degrees the almond flavour displaced the
barley, so that Orgeat is now little else than almond-
milk flavoured and qualified to suit various tastes. The
following receipts show the various methods of making
it, and its adoption for flavouring other compounds :
(1) Boil a piece of stick cinnamon in lqt. of new milk;
take the milk from the fire, pick out the cinnamon, and let
the milk stand till cold. Blanch 2oz. of sweet almonds,
put them into a mortar and pound to a paste, adding a
little rose-water to prevent them oiling. When the milk
is cold, stir into it the pounded almonds and sugar to
taste, set it over the fire, and boil for fifteen minutes, not
longer for fear it should become oily. Strain it through
a fine sieve, and serve either warm (not hot) or cold in
glasses.
(2) Put 2oz. of blanched sweet almonds into a mortar
with one or two bitter ones, pound them to a pulp, add-
ing 1 teaspoonful of orange-flower water to prevent* oiling.
Now pour in 1 pint each of milk and water, sweeten to
taste, and a very refreshing drink is obtained.
(3) Blanch 6oz. of sweet and loz. of bitter almonds, and
put them into cold water for several hours to soak. Take
them out, drain diy, wipe them on a cloth, and pound to
a pulp in a mortar, adding 4 teacupful of orange-flower
water to prevent them oiling. Put 3 pints of water into
an earthenware pan or basin, add the almond pulp and
41b. of caster sugar, mix well, cover the pan, and let them
remain for an hour. Strain it into a pan packed in ice,
and it is ready for use.
(4) Pour boiling water over 2oz. of sweet and -Joz. of
bitter almonds, slip them from their skins, and put them
into cold water. Dry them in a cloth, place them in
a mortar, and pound, moiste ing with a little milk.
When the almonds are well pounded, mix with them by
degrees 14 pints more milk, add powdered white sugar
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , <i*c. , referred to , see under their special heads.
VOL. IT.
E
50
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Orgeat — continued.
to taste, put in a pan over the fire, and let it boil once ;
take it from the lire and stir till cold. Strain, and add
to it b vine <4] assful of brandy before using.
(5) Put lib. of sweet and loz. of bitter almonds into a
basin, pour over sufficient boiling water to cover, slip them
out of their skins, put them in a mortar, and pound, moisten-
ing with 2 table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water. Then
mix with the pounded almonds 1 pint of spring-water and
1 pint of rose-water. Strain the mixture through a cloth,
squeezing the almonds quite dry. Have 3 pints of clarified
sugar boiled to that degree that when the finger is dipped
in "the sugar when it has sufficiently cooled and then into
cold water, the sugar will crack as the finger is moved in
the water ( see Sugar boiling). When the 3 pints of
syrup are boiled to this degree, put in the almonds, and
let them boil in the syrup for one minute. Remove it from
the fire, let it stand till cold, then put it into small bottles
and cork them air-tight. When required for use, shake the
hottle, put 1 table-spoonful of the syrup into a tumbler, and
fill up with spring- water.
Orgeat Cream Ices. — Rlanch ,} 11 > . of sweet and ten bitter
almonds, and pound them in a mortar with a little milk.
When they are reduced to a pulp, put it into a saucepan
with lqt. of cream and the yolks of ten eggs, set the pan
on the fire, and as soon as it is of the required consistence
pour it through a fine sieve ; add sufficient caster sugar to
sweeten, turn it into the freezer and then into moulds
shaped like various fruits packed in ice. When set, turn
these out on to a dish covered with an ornamental paper,
and serve with sweet biscuits round (see Fig. 63).
Orgeat Paste. — Blanch twenty -four bitter almonds and lib.
of sweet ones, put them into a mortar, and pound to a very
fine paste, adding a little orange-flower water to prevent
them oiling; then work into this paste its own weight of
powdered white sugar. This paste may be kept a long
time, and is useful for making Orgeat quickly ; which
may be done by mixing 1 pint of water with 2oz. of
the paste, and when the paste is thoroughly dissolved
straining it.
Orgeat Syrup. — (1) Blanch and pound Soz. of sweet and 2|oz.
of bitter almonds in a mortar with 12oz. of sugar and 2oz.
of water. Mix in 24oz. more water, strain, pressing through
as much as possible ; add to this 2|lb. more sugar and let
it dissolve with gentle heat. Pour in lastly 4oz. of orange-
flower water, strain again, stir well, and in a week’s time
bottle. This syrup should not be diluted, as it is very liable
to frequent fermentations, and then both salicylic acid and
borax would have to be used to check it. In America
there is a beverage called Orgeat lemonade, made by mixing
the syrup with lemon- juice and ice.
(2) Blanch lib. of sweet and 4oz. of bitter almonds, put
them into a mortar with 2oz. of orange-flower water, and
pound them well, adding gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of
water. Put the paste into a cloth, and strain into a basin
by twisting very tightly ; macerate the residue with more
water, and continue in this way until another pint has been
Used. Strain the whole once more through a cloth into a
saucepan, add 31b. of loaf sugar, and boil for a few minutes.
Strain again, and let the liquor cool, stirring it two or
three times a day for seven days. Bottle and use as re-
quired. It should be shaken occasionally if it is inclined
to settle or separate into flocks.
Orgeat — continued.
Orgeat Tablets. — Blanch 4oz. of sweet almonds and pound
them in a mortar to a paste, adding a few drops of orange-
llower water to prevent them oiling. Clarify lib. of double-
refined sugar, and boil it to the feather (see Sugar boiling) ;
put the pounded almonds in the sugar and boil it to the
feather degree again. Take the pan off the fire, rub the
sugar against the sides until it becomes glossy, then stir
it in the middle. Line a shallow pan with stout cartridge-
paper, and pour the syrup into it. When slightly cooled,
mark the syrup into tablets with a knife ; when cold, snap
the tablets asunder in the places where they are marked,
and put them in bottles or tins for use.
Orgeat Water. — Blanch and pound 8oz. of sweet and loz.
of bitter almonds, and put them into a basin with lqt. of
water. A little water should be poured in whilst pounding
to prevent them oiling. Add a little orange-flower water and
sufficient sugar to sweeten. Stir well, and when it is well
mixed, strain through a fine hair sieve into a basin or
howl packed in ice, and it is ready for use.
ORLEANS PUDDING.— See Puddings.
ORLYS. — See Horlies.
ORMERS.— This is the name given to certain shell-
fish which are found on the rocks round the coast of
Jersey. They have but one shell, very beautifully coloured
on the outside and tinted with silver in the inside.
Fig. 64. Ormer-shell.
Ormers are shaped something like the human ear (see
Fig. 64), hence they are commonly known as sea-ears.
They are considered great delicacies, and may. either be
prepared and dressed as scallops, or pickled as follows :
Clean the required number of Ormers, beat them with a
cutlet-bat until they are quite tender, and put them into a
saucepan with some water so that there will be sufficient to
cover them after they have boiled. Add a few white
peppers, slices of whole ginger, and bay-leaves; place the
pan on the fire, boil the contents gently for four hours,
add salt and vinegar to taste, and they are then ready for
use. If wanted to be kept for any length of time, more
vinegar should be added ; or the liquor in which they were
cooked may be strained off and sufficient vinegar poured
over to cover them, and cooked for a few minutes longer.
ORRIS, or ORRICE. — This word is a corruption of
Iris, a well-known genus of plants. The rootstock of
Iris florenthia and Iris gennanica (see Fig. 65), known
in commerce as Orris-root or Orrice-root, has an odour
resembling that of violets, and is used as a substitute
for that flower. The oil of Orris-root is frequently em-
ployed in the manufacture of so-called raspberry essence.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
51
Orris — continued.
Orris-root Caramels. — Mix well together 21b. of the best
sugar, loz. of gelatine dissolved in § breakfast-cupful of
cold water, Joz. of pure paraffin wax, \ pint of cream, and
lib. of glucose (if the caramels are made in the summer-
time §lb. of glucose will be sufficient). Put this mixture
over the .fire, and stir it constantly till when a little is tried
in cold water it makes a ball if rolled, between the fingers ;
stir in then 1 dessert-spoonful of powdered Orris-root and
a small quantity of sweet almonds blanched and grated.
Pour the syrup into well-buttered tins, let it cool, cut it
into fin. squares, and wrap each one separately in oiled
paper.
ORTOLANS (Fr. Ortolans; Ger. Fettammern; Ital.
Ortolani ; Sp. Hortelanos). — This is the name given to a
European singing-bird ( Emberiza hortidana) about the
size of a lark. It has black wings, and frequents the
hedges of gardens, deriving its name from the Latin
hortulanus—a, gardener. It is exceedingly rare, and when
fat is esteemed as a table delicacy. The Ortolan is some-
times known as the garden bimting.
Broiled Ortolans en Fapillote. — Rub with melted butter
or salad-oil as many sheets of paper as there are birds, and
cut them just large enough to double over the birds and
turn in all round the edges like a hem, in order to preserve
the fat and the trail while the birds are being cooked.
Carefully pluck and singe the birds, cut off the beaks
and claws, skin the heads and necks, and wipe them with
a clean cloth ; twist the feet, lay the heads close to the
sides of the birds, and then enclose the birds in the paper.
After the birds are in the paper, put them on a gridiron
over a very gentle fire, and broil for about five minutes or
Fig. 66. Broiled Ortolans en Papillote.
until they swim in their own fat. Serve them at once in
the papers on a plate covered with watercress (see Fig. 66).
The papers are not to lie removed until just before eating
the birds.
Fried Ortolans. — (1) Draw and singe twenty-four Ortolans,
put them in a frying-pan with some melted bacon and a
couple of bay-leaves, sprinkle over with salt and pepper,
and fiy them over a brisk fire until done, turning them
'frequently. Strain off the fat, add some vinegar and melted
glaze, and reduce the liquor quickly over a brisk fire.
Take out the bay-leaves, add a salpifon of lean smoked
ham steeped in water and a little Spanish sauce reduced
with white wine, and warm the ham without boiling the
liquor. Arrange the birds in a pile in the centre of a dish,
pour the sauce over, and serve with a garnish of small
quenelles.
(2) Prepare and truss some Ortolans as for roasting, dip
them into well-beaten egg, sprinkle over with breadcrumbs,
plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and fry.
When done, take them out, drain off the fat, and serve
them on pieces of toast or fried breadcrumbs mixed with
a few chopped mushrooms.
Ortolans a la Ferigordine. — Prepare the birds as for
roasting, cover them with slices of fat bacon, put them in
a saucepan, set in the bain-marie, add a little stock mixed
with lemon-juice, baste them with this, and cook them.
Scoop out the centre from as many truffles as there are
birds, put them into a saucepan with sufficient champagne
to boil them in, take them out when done, and stuff them
with a little game puifie. Put them into the saucepan
with the Ortolans, warm them all up for a few seconds, |
Ortolans — continued.
arrange them on a dish, and serve with a little of the
sauce to moisten them.
Ortolans a la Provenpale. — Procure as many large truffles
as there are birds to be cooked, and make some French
forcemeat. Pierce a hole in the centre of each truffle and
stuff it with the forcemeat. Remove the feet and heads
from the birds, and season them w’ell with salt and pepper;
lay the birds on their backs on the truffles, put them in
a deep stewpan with h pint of port wine and about the
same quantity of clear veal stock, and cover with slices of
bacon. Put the lid on the pan, and stew the birds gently.
When they are cooked, take them and the truffles out
and keep them hot ; strain the sauce through a line sieve,
skim off all the fat, pour it into a small clean stewpan,
and boil until reduced to half its original quantity. Mix
with the sauce 1 breakfast-cupful of brown Spanish sauce,
and boil it again until somewhat reduced. Put some
pieces of toast on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, put the
birds and truffles on them, and serve.
Ortolans a la Sirene Franqaise. — Truss the birds with-
out drawing them. Mince finely a small quantity of lemon-
thyme, basil, chervil, chives, and twice the quantity of
button-mushrooms, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them,
and season with salt. Brush the birds over with a paste-
brush dipped in warmed butter, and roll them at once
in the seasoning. Butter the interior of as many paper
cases as there are birds, and place a bird in each, covering
them with a sheet of buttered paper ; put the cases on a
baking-sheet, on a bed of fine charcoal or rice, and put them
in the oven. Meanwhile boil three or four eggs hard, and
when peeled remove the wiiites and pass the yolks through
a tine wire sieve. When cooked, take the top paper off the
birds, strew a little of the yolk of egg over, and put a
small round of lemon on each. Spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, arrange the cases of
birds on it, and serve. Garnishing here and there with groups
of fried parsley is an improvement to the general appear-
ance of the dish.
Ortolans a la Toulouse. — In the south of France, and
especially in Toulouse, where these birds are plentiful and
well fattened, they kill them by putting their heads into
vinegar, which the native cooks allege improves the flesh.
Pluck, draw, and slightly singe one dozen Ortolans, rub
them over with lemon, and pass a skewer through them.
Cover well with melted butter mixed with lemon-juice,
sprinkle over breadcrumbs, and roast them on the spit
or in front of a clear fire for seven or eight minutes,
basting frequently with the fat that drops from them.
Put them on a dish, sprinkle a little salt over them,
baste with the drippings, and serve with a garnish of slices
of lemon.
Ortolans in Cases. — (1) Pluck, draw, and singe one dozen
Ortolans, and put them into small cases masked with
perigueux sauce, putting their heads through a hole cut
for the purpose. Place them in a quick oven for a few
minutes, or they may be salamandered, and viien they are
done damp them with a little more of the perigueux and
serve. Care must be taken in drawing them to take out
their gizzards.
(2) Pluck, singe, and bone one dozen Ortolans. Put 11b. of
chopped bacon into a frying-pan, and add some marjoram,
parsley, thyme, peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two chopped
shallots, and a little salt. Place the pan on the fire and
fry them brown, add 8oz. of calf’s liver, and fry this brown
also. Put this mixture into a mortar, pound it, pass it
through a line sieve back into the mortar, and pound
again, with the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs. When
this is thoroughly mixed, add six finely-chopped truffles,
stuff' the birds with it, and put them into oiled paper cases ;
brush them over with oil or butter, and bake in a quick
oven for a few minutes. Put the bones into a saucepan
with l breakfast-cupful of stock or gravy, add 1 wine-
glassful of port wine, and boil until the liquor is reduced
to a teacupful. Arrange the birds on a dish, pour a little
of the sauce over, and serve.
Ortolans in a Croustade. — Cut off the legs and necks of the
birds, and remove the gizzards ; season them with salt,
e 2
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
52
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ortolans — continued.
pepper, and grated nutmeg. Hollow out the centre of as
many large truffles as there are birds, then mask them
interiorly with a small quantity of chicken forcemeat. Place
an Ortolan, the breast upwards, in each of the truffles, put
them in a stewpan, cover with thin slices of fat bacon,
then pour in, in equal quantities, some Madeira and
mirepoix. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let the
contents simmer for twenty-five minutes. Shape a round
croustade out of bread, fry it in plenty of fat till lightly
coloured, then drain it and fix it on a dish. When cooked,
drain the truffles, pile them in the croustade, and garnish
round the dish with fried parsley (see Fig. 67). Strain
the cooking-liquor of the truffles, skim oft' the fat, and boil
Fig. 67. Ortolans in a Croustade.
it till reduced to half its original quantity ; then pour in
lqt. of Spanish sauce, and boil till reduced to a thick
creamy consistency. Strain the sauce through a fine hair
sieve, and serve in a sauceboat with the Ortolans.
Ortolan Patties. — Make six patties of tart-paste in fluted
moulds made with hinges so that they will open to let out
the patty-crusts when done; fill them with flour, and bake.
When set, take them out of the moulds and let them get
cold. Place at the bottom of each 1 table-spoonful of
royal salpifon, and then place in each patty two well-
picked, fine, fat, raw, seasoned Ortolans, covered with a
slice of thin bacon ; lay them on a small baking-pan, place
in a moderate oven, and bake for fifteen minutes. Re-
move from the oven, take oil' the lard from the birds,
moisten each patty with 2 table-spoonfuls of hot Madeira
sauce, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin placed
over it.
Roasted Ortolans. — (1) Pluck and singe one dozen or so
Ortolans, make a hole in the sides and take out the gizzards,
but do not draw them. Stuff the heads into the holes,
wrap them round with thin slices of fat bacon, and put
them hi front of a clear fire to roast. Let them remain
for from ten to twelve minutes, sprinkle over with salt,
arrange them on a dish on erofitons of fried bread, and serve.
They may be wrapped in vine-leaves (freshly gathered) if
preferred instead of the bacon, which destroys the delicate
flavour to a certain extent. A rich sauce should be served
with them.
(2) Dress and prepare one dozen or so Ortolans, and put
them hi to a saucepan with a small quantity of butter.
Cover the pan, and toss it over a quick fire for a few minutes,
when they will be quite done. Put them on a dish, and
serve.
(3) When the birds have hung until they are quite tender,
pluck, singe, and truss them like quails, but do not draw
them ; bind a vine-leaf round each bird, fix them on a spit,
and roast hi front of a clear fire. Put in the pan under
each bird a slice of toast, and baste them continually
with butter. Prepare the following gravy for them : Put
into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of clear stock a
few strips of thinly-pared orange-peel, the juice of the
orange, a few basil-leaves, and 1 wineglassful of port wine ;
season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil it gently
for fifteen minutes. When the birds are cooked, place
them on a hot dish with a piece of the toast under each,
strain the gravy, and serve it in a sauceboat with the
birds.
Stewed Ortolans. — Pluck, draw, and slightly singe one dozen
Ortolans ; chop off their heads and feet. Scoop out some
of the inside of twelve truffles, stuff them with forcemeat,
arrange them at the bottom of a saucepan, and place the
Ortolans — continued.
birds on them on their backs. Cover them with slices of
fat bacon, pour in 1 breakfast-cupful each of port wine
and veal stock, put the lid on the pan, and cook for twenty
minutes or so ; then take out the birds and truffles and put
them m e very slow oven to keep warm. Strain and skim
the liquor, reduce it to half its original quantity, then add
1 breakfast-cupful of Spanish sauce, and reduce again. Cut
off twelve small rounds of bread from a household loaf,
toast them, and plunge them into the sauce to soak. Put
them on a dish, place the truffles and Ortolans on them,
and serve with a little of the sauce poured over.
Timbale of Ortolans with Truffles.— Take out the pouches
from one-dozen-and-a-half Ortolans, chop oft' their legs,
necks, and wings, singe them, and remove their gizzards by
making the lower aperture a little wider, and fill them
with a salpifon of truffles mixed with fat bacon and
parsley. In the meantime, line a timbale mould with
short paste, and cover it over with a thin layer of pork,
chopped fine and mixed with truffles in ‘the propor-
tion of 2oz. of truffles to Mb. of pork. Put the birds
into a saucepan with a little bacon-fat, toss the pan
briskly over a clear fire for two minutes to let them
set, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and take them out.
Cover with a little good glaze, arrange them in the hollow
of the mould, cover with forcemeat, and lastly with a
round of the paste. Put the mould into a hot oven and
bake for an hour, taking care not to give it much colour.
Put f breakfast-cupful of Maderia wine into a saucepan
with a bunch of sweet herbs and a small quantity of truffles,
put the pan on the fire, cover, and boil until the liquor is
reduced to one-half its original quantity. Strain through a
sieve, and mix in its equal bulk of melted glaze. Take
the timbale out of the oven when done, make a small
incision at the top, pour the glaze, &c., in, close up the hole,
turn it out on to a dish, and serve.
ORVIETO. — An Italian wine prepared in Umbria
and the Palatine Marshes.
OSWEGO. — A preparation of cornflour, so called after
the American town in which it was first manufactured.
It is said to be exceedingly pure, digestible, and nu-
tritious.
Oswego Biscuits.— Put 2oz. of melted butter into a basin
with loz. of orange-zest, and stir in the yolks of six eggs
and 2 table-spoonfuls of brandy. Work these well with a
whisk for a-quarter-of-an-hour, and add 12oz. of Oswego
mixed with I teaspoonful of baking-powder. Knead it to
a dough, turn it out on to a well floured board, form it
into the shape of small twists, put them on a buttered
baking- sheet, brush them over with egg, and bake in a
quick oven until done. Take them out when quite crisp,
let them get cold, and they are then ready for use.
Oswego Cake. — Put the yolks of seven eggs into a basin
and stir in 12oz. of crushed loaf sugar; beat it well, and
add the whites of the seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth
and a little -lemon-zest (grated rind). When all these are
thoroughly mixed, add 6oz. of Oswego and toy., of baking-
powder. Pour the mixture into a Savoy-cake mould, and
bake in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out, let it
get cold, and it is ready for use.
Oswego Pudding. -Break a dozen Oswego biscuits into a
basin with a heaped table-spoonful of caster sugar and 2oz.
of butter, pour over them § breakfast-cupful of boiling
milk, cover with a plate, and leave them until quite soft.
Beat two eggs up thoroughly, pour them in with the biscuits,
and beat the whole together. Butter a pie-dish, pour the
mixture into it, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty
minutes or balf-an-hour. Serve hot.
OUNCE. — The 16th part of a pound avoirdupois, and
the 20th part of a pint. See Weights and Measures.
OVENS.— (Ur. Fours; Ger. Backofen; Ital. Form; Sp.
Hornos). — These are literally described as places arched
over with brick or stone-work, and used for baking,
heating, or drying. Although modern ingenuity has con-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
53
Ovens— co ntinued.
siderably improved upon the original idea, the action
brought about by means of the Oven is essentially the
same now as in the days of our Anglo-Saxon forefathers.
In their time it was customary to build a baking-chamber
of clay, and cover it over with the hot embers of a wood
fire. Nowadays the Oven is usually constructed of iron,
and forms part of an elaborate cooking-range, which
will be more fully described under the headings Stoves
and Ranges. The heat is supplied from various sources,
such as coal, gas, hot water, steam, oil, and hot air, for all
of which various merits are claimed. But for ordinary
domestic purposes the Oven which is a part of the range,
and heated by the same means, whether gas, fuel, or
oil, as the case may be, is quite sufficient. For more
extensive cookery, such as would be required in hotels,
mansions, and bakeries, those previously mentioned as
heated by hot air, or steam, are generally preferred. As a
matter of fact, Ovens constructed on the kitchen-range
principle give the best results for all purposes if carefully
and scientifically used.
The old-fashioned brick Oven, for which so many virtues
have been claimed, especially in bread-baking, may now
be considered obsolete in all modemly-constructed build-
ings. Under Baking will be found some very important
instructions for the management of an Oven, and the
various degrees of heat required for baking special
articles.
OX. — The cook uses this term in a very limited sense,
generally as applied to the offal only. It is the male
of the beef-providing beast. Bos taurus, more commonly
known as Bull, Cow, Heifer, &c.
Ox-Brains. — There is not much difference, so far as
the cook is concerned, between the brains of any animals
excepting so far as size is concerned. Ox-brains, being
larger, are better than any other for the following dish.
For their treatment before cooking refer to Brains.
Tried Cutlets of Ox-Brains. -Blanch the brains, put
them into a saucepan with a lump of salt and boiling
water to cover, and boil them slowly for half-an-hour.
Drain them when ready, and divide into small pieces ; dip
them in well-beaten egg and then in plenty of finely-grated
breadcrumb. Put a large piece of butter in a frying-pan,
place it on the fire, and when it boils put in the brains
and fry them until nicely browned. Drain the brains, put
them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish paper, squeeze a little lemon-
juice over them, garnish with slices of lemon and fried
parsley (see Fig. 68), and serve.
Ox-Cheek or Head. — These two may be classed under
one heading, the receipts given below applying equally
to both; what is styled Ox-clieek being virtually half
an Ox-head. The flesh of this part of the animal is
peculiarly tender and gelatinous, being therefore excep-
tionally suitable for stews, soups, and jellies.
Collared Ox-Cheek. — Wash an Ox-cheek, put it into a
saucepan with enough salted water to cover, and boil
quickly for ten minutes or so. Take it out, put it into
another saucepan of salted water, and add a cow-heel or
lib. of pork-rind. Set the pan at the side of the fire and
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils,
Ox-Cheek or Head — continued.
simmer gently for about four hours or until the meat is
quite tender ; take out the meat, remove all the bones,
mince the meat rather fine, sprinkle it over with salt and
pepper, and also a little allspice if desired. Put it into a
collaring-tin with a weight on the top, and when cold
it is ready for use.
Collared Ox-Head. — Take some slices off a cold boiled Ox-
head, and cut each slice into small squares; cut half the
quantity of fat bacon into pieces the same size, and put
them together into a stewpan with a small quantity of
mixed herbs, parsley, and a few cloves, tied up in a
piece of muslin. Pour in about 1 pint of clear stock (the
cooking-liquor of the head may be used if there is any
left), season with a small quantity of cayenne pepper and
salt to taste, and simmer gently at the side of the fire
for an hour. Afterwards, let the mixture get cool, then
turn it into a mould that has been rinsed out with cold
water, removing the muslin with the herbs, and stand it
in a cold temperature. When quite cold, turn the collared
head out of the mould on to a dish over which has been
Pig. 69. Colt.ared Ox-Head.
spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish
it with crofitons of aspic jelly and parsley (see Fig. 69),
and serve. This makes a very tasty dish for breakfast or
supper.
Ox-Cheek a la Mode. -Wash an Ox-cheek and season it
by rubbing well with salt, pepper, powdered mace,
powdered cloves, and some finely-chopped onion. Put it in
a stewpan over the fire with only as much water as will
cover it, allow it to stew for two hours, let it get quite
cold, and then skim off the fat. When the cheek is
perfectly cold and free from fat, cut the meat into pieces
about fin. square. Slice the meat of a cow-heel that
has been well cleaned and boiled very tender into pieces
of the same size. Mix the pieces of cow-heel and Ox-
cheek together, put them into a basin, and season with
pepper, salt, and a little mace. Fill up, or nearly fill up,
the basin with gravy, cover it with a dish turned upside
Fig. 70. Ox-Cheek a la Mode.
down, put it into a slow oven, and bake for two horn's :
then take it out of the oven, uncover, and set it in a cool
I face. Next day, if perfectly cold, turn it out, garnish
with parsley, and serve. See Fig. 70.
s, (L'c., referred to, see under their special heads.
54
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox-Cheek or Head — continued.
Ox-Cheek Cheese. — Put an Ox-cheek in a basin of water
and let it remain for twelve hours or so to soak ; then put
it into a saucepan with water to cover, set the pan on the
fire, and boil the contents gently, skimming frequently.
When the meat is tender and will easily leave the bones
(it Mill take about four hours), turn it out on to a dish,
remove all the bones, chop the meat very small, and sprinkle
over a little salt and pepper and 1 table-spoonful of thyme.
Put the meat into a cloth, tie it up securely and tightly,
put it between two boards, with a heavy weight on the
top, and let it get quite cold. Take it out, remove the
cloth, and it is ready for use.
Ox-Cheek Haricot. — Take an Ox-cheek that has been
stewed, and cut off the meat in moderate-sized pieces.
Put a few slices of onions into a frying-pan with a little
butter or fat, and fry them to a light broM'n. Put a carrot
or turnip — that has previously been boiled — into a saucepan
with a little of the broth from the stew in which the
cheek MTas cooked, and when they are warm add the pieces
of meat, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, put the pan
at the side of the fire, and simmer gently for ten minutes.
Skim off any fat there may be on the broth, mix in suffi-
cient flour to give the liquor a creamy appearance, simmer
gently for five minutes longer, turn it all out on a dish,
and serve very hot.
Ox-Cheek Pie. — (1) Thoroughly wash the cheek and let it
soak for an hour or two in cold water. Next put it into
a saucepan with cold water, and boil gently until tender.
When cooked, drain the cheek, cut out all the bones, and
leave it until cold. Put 3 breakfast-cupfuls of the liquor
that the cheek was boiled in into a stewpan, boil it
until reduced to one-third, and flavour it to taste with
Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper. Skin and trim the
meat into moderate-sized pieces, slice some cold boiled ham
or bacon and two or three hard-boiled eggs, and fill a pie-
dish with alternate layers of cheek, ba n, and egg, pour in
the prepared gravy, and cover the whole with a good crust ;
trim it off evenly round the edges, and make a slight
incision in the top. Bake the pie in a moderate oven until
the crust is cooked. Serve cold.
(2) Wash an Ox-cheek, put it into an earthemvare or stone
jar with water to cover, place it in the oven when the
fire is low, and leave it all night. Next morning cut the
meat of the head up, mincing it almost as finely as for
hash. Boil the palate until tender, then skin and cut it into
small pieces. Butter and line a pie-dish with paste, put
in the meat and palate with loz. each of washed morels
and truffles, the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, eighteen
or twenty poached forcemeat balls, a few fresh mushrooms,
and two or three artichoke-bottoms cut into small pieces ;
season to taste with salt and pepper, and moisten to half
their height with some of the liquor that the cheek M’as
baked in. Roll out a flat of puff paste about ljin. thick,
cover the pie with it, trim it evenly round the edges,
moisten them, and press them together. Roll out the
trimmings of the paste, cut out some imitation leaves,
damp them slightly underneath with a paste-brush dipped
in a little Mrater, then arrange them tastefully on the top
of the pie, and make a small hole in the centre to let the
steam escape. Bake the pie in a good oven. When
cooked, stand the pie-dish on a flat dish, and serve M'hile
hot. If asparagus-tops are hr season, a few of those pre-
viously boiled and put in the pie would be an improve-
ment.
(3) Cut off the meat in slices from an Ox-cheek that
has been stewed ; put a layer of it at the bottom of a
pie-dish, over this put a layer of parboiled onions cut in
slices, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and continue
hi this way until the meat is all used up. Pour in some
of the liquor from the stew to fill up the dish, put over
the dish a cover of paste, place it in a moderate oven,
and bake. When done, take it out, and serve.
Ox-Cheek Soup. (1) Cut off the muzzle from half an Ox-
liead, put the head into a bowl of water, and let it soak
for an hour. Take it out, chop it into halves, put it into
the stockpot with sufficient M'ater to cover, and boil for a few
minutes ; take out the cheek, plunge it hito a bowl of cold
Ox-Cheek or Head — continued.
water, and then replace it hi the stockpot. Broth may be
used instead of water if the soup is preferred rich. Put
the pot on the fire, boil up the contents, skim frequently,
remove it to the side of the fire, and simmer gently for
an hour. Add an onion, a few sticks of green celery, a
little chervil, two carrots, and a few sprigs of sweet herbs,
and boil until the vegetables are done and the flesh easily
leaves the bones. Take out the cheek, remove the bones,
put the meat under a board with a weight on the top, and
let it cool. Pass the broth through a fine sieve, skim off
all the fat, and when it has settled pour off the clear liquor
into a bowl. Put Jgall. of this broth into a saucepan, clarify
it with Jib. of chopped lean beef mixed up with an egg
and J pint of Madeira, strain it again into another sauce-
pan, add the meat from the cheek cut up into as uniform-
sized pieces as possible, warm the whole up M’ithout boiling,
and a few minutes before turning it out add the white
part of seven leeks that have been braised and cut into
small pieces ; pour the soup into a tureen, and serve very
hot.
(2) Put an Ox-cheek into a basin of warm Mrater, let it
soak, take it out, and wipe dry on a cloth. Put it into a
saucepan with water enough to cover, and add a few pepper-
corns and a little salt. Cover the pan, set it on the fire,
and as soon as the liquor boils remove the pan to the side
of the fire and let it simmer gently. Remove the scum as
it rises, and when all is off replace the lid and cook gently
for two hours. More water must be added now and then
to make up for that which has evaporated, and it must be
put in boiling. Turn all out on to a dish, take out the
bones, and let it stand for twelve hours or so. Skim off
the fat, put it into a basin, and mix with as much flour
as it can hold. Put it into a saucepan with two turnips,
four carrots, an onion, and three leeks all cut into pieces,
place the pan on the fire, and cook to a light brou'n. Return
the broth and meat to the saucepan, pour in a little more
M’ater, set the pan at the side of the fire, and simmer gently
for from two to three hours, u’hen both meat and vegetables
should be well co deed. Turn it out into a soup-tureen and
serve very hot.
Ox-Head Soup. — Put an Ox-head into a basin or bourl of
M'ater and let it soak for three hours. Take it out, break
all the bones, and M-ash it well in warm water. Put it
into a saucepan •with 5qts. of M’ater, cover the pan, boil
very slou’ly, and ski n frequently. When it has boiled
for about two hours, add two carrots, two onions, one
turnip, and a head of celery all cut into small pieces,
twenty-five or thirty black peppercorns, two dozen allspice,
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put the lid on the pan,
remove the pan to the side of the lire, and simmer gently
for three hours, skimming frequently. Take out the head,
put it on a dish, strain the liquor into a basin, and let
them both cool. Let them remain for a day, then cut oil
all the meat from the bones, put it into a saucepan with
the gravy, after the fat has been removed, set the pan at
the side of the fire, simmer gently for thirty minutes, and
it is ready for use. A wineglassful of white wine is a great
improvement.
Potted Ox-Head. — Procure half an Ox-head, chop it into
small pieces, put it in a boM’l of water, and soak for two
or three hours. When ready, drain the head, put it in a
saucepan M’itli plenty of M'ater, and boil slowly for four or
five hours, or until the meat can be easily picked off the
bones. When cooked, take the head out of the liquor, cut
the meat oil the bones, and chop it into small pieces. Skim
the fat off the cooking-liquor, put in the meat with 1 table-
spoonful of Jamaica pepper, the same quantity of salt, a
small quantity of black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne.
Boil the above mixture for thirty minutes, then turn it into
a basin or mould, and leave until next day, when it will be
stiff. Turn the head out of the mould on to a dish, and
serve.
Stewed Ox-Cheek. — (1) Put a M'ell-u'ashed Ox-cheek into
a boM’l of M’ater, and let it soak for twelve hours or so ;
place it in a saucepan with 3J pints of water, and add
one onion and a head of celery cut up into small pieces, a
bunch of sweet herbs, four cloves, and salt and pepper to
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
55
Ox-Cheek or Head — continued.
Ox-Hearts — continued.
taste. Put the pan at the side of the fire, and let it
simmer gently for seven hours. Take out the cheek when
tender, cut off all the meat in small pieces, put them into
a saucepan, pour over 1 pint of the liquor after it has
been skimmed and strained, and add also 1 wineglassful of
port wine and a few forcemeat balls ; warm them all,
turn them out on to a dish, and serve very hot.
(2) Cut off all the meat from an Ox-cheek that has
been washed and soaked, break up the bones, put them
with the meat into a saucepan with sufficient water to
cover, and sprinkle in a little salt and a few pepper-
corns. Tie up a few cloves and a blade of mace in a
small muslin bag, put it into the saucepan, and add
five turnips, six carrots, three onions cut into slices, a
head of celery chopped up rather small, and a bunch of
sweet herbs. Set the pan at the side of the fire, and
simmer gently for four hours or until the meat is quite
tender. Take out the pieces of meat, put them on a dish,
add a little browning and thickening to the gravy, pour
it over the meat, and serve. A wineglassful of port wine
if added to the liquor after the meat is taken out is an
improvement.
Stewed Ox-Head. — Put the head to soak in cold water the
night before it is wanted, split it in halves, put it in a
large saucepan with three or four carrots, two turnips, two
onions stuck with cloves, half a burnt onion, and two bay-
leaves. Fill the saucepan with cold water, season to taste
with salt and pepper, add a bunch of sweet herbs, and
keep it simmering gently at the side of the fire for four
or five hours, adding more water when necessary. When
quite tender, put the head on a hot dish, garnish it with
some freshly-boiled vegetables, and serve with some of its
cooking-liquor in a sauceboat.
Ox-Hearts. — In the opinion of most professional cooks,
the flesh of the Ox-heart is too coarse and greasy to be
of any value for serving as a separate dish. This would
appear to be somewhat of an error of judgment, for,
prepared as follows, Ox-heart is not only tender, but
delicious eating. It should be served at all times on very
hot plates —hot- water plates if possible, or dinner plates
set upon soup-plates containing hot water. The flesh of
a cold Ox-heart is sometimes used either to increase the
bulk of jugged hare or as a substitute for the flesh
of the hare itself.
Baked Ox-Heart. — Thoroughly wash and clean an Ox-heart
and boil it for two or three hours, or till tender, allowing
the water to nearly boil away, so that the remaining liquor
can be used for gravy. Make a sage-and-onion stuffing.
Take the heart out when cooked, cut a piece out of
the middle, and fill the hollow with the stuffing. Put
the heart in a baking-dish, pour the liquor round it,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake till brown. Cut
the piece of heart that was taken from the middle into
small pieces, put them with the liquor that is left in the
Fig. 71. Baked Ox-Heart.
pan after the heart is done, and stir in 1 table-spoonful of
thickening. Put the heart on a hot dish, pour the gravy
over, garnish with French beans or Brussels sprouts and
potato balls (see Fig. 71), and serve very hot.
Boiled Ox-Heart. — Put an Ox-heart into a basin of water,
wash it well both in the cavities and outside to clear out
all the blood, place it in a saucepan of salted water or
stock, and boil for three hours. Take it out when done,
cut it into thick slices, arrange them on a dish, and serve
with a rich brown gravy poured over.
Roasted Ox-Heart. — (1) Put an Ox-heart into a basin of warm
water and let it soak for an hour to wash out all the blood.
Take it out, wipe dry with a cloth, stuff it with some
highly-seasoned forcemeat, tie round a piece of well-buttered
paper, pass a spit through it, and place in front of a clear
fire to roast, basting frequently with butter. "When done
(it will take about two hours), remove the paper, put it
on a dish, and pour over piquant sauce or a little rich
gravy.
(2) Wash the heart well, rinse all the blood carefully
from the pipes, and parboil it for ten minutes. Make a
stuffing of breadcrumbs mixed with finely-minced suet or
butter, a small quantity of thyme, salt and pepper, and a
little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg. Roast it in front of
a clear fire, baste well with butter, and just before dish-
ing stir 1 table-spoonful of currant jelly into the gravy.
Place the heart on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and
serve very hot. Twenty minutes for every pound should be
allowed for roasting the heart.
Stewed Ox-Heart. — Put an Ox-heart into a basin of water,
wash it well, and let it soak to clean out the blood. Take it
out, dry on a cloth, cut it in halves, rub them well over with
flour, put them into a frying-pan with a little butter,
and fry to a brown colour. Put them in a saucepan with a
sprig of thyme and four or five onions cut hi slices and
fried, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and pour in
sufficient water to cover. Place the pan on the fire, and
cook the halves of heart gently for about three hours ; then
take them out, skim the fat from the liquor, reduce it,
thicken, and add 1 wineglassful of claret and 1 teaspoonful
of moist sugar. Put the heart back again into the saucepan,
warm it up, put it on a dish, pour over the gravy, and
serve.
Ox-Kidneys. — The size of these, and their somewhat
coarse nature, places them quite outside the usual culinary
preparations prescribed for the smaller kidneys, such as
sheep’s, lamb's, &c. ; nevertheless, modern artistic cooks
have found several effective modes of cooking them.
Fried Ox-Kidney. — (1) Cut a kidney in slices and put them
in a basin of warm water for two-hours-and-a-half to soak,
changing the water once or twice so as to thoroughly cleanse
them. Take the slices out, dust them over with flour, salt,
and pepper, put them into a frying-pan with 3oz. of butter,
and fry to a light brown. Put them in a circle on a dish,
mix 1 table-spoonful of piquant sauce in J pint of gravy
with 1 teaspoonful of moist sugar in it, pour it in the
centre of the circle, and serve. As a rule Ox-kidneys are
coarse, but cooked as above they are tender and luscious.
(2) Trim and clean some Ox-kidneys, dry them, and cut
them in slices; dust over with salt, pepper, and flour, put
them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry until dene
through and browned. Place them on a hot dish, and stand
it in the oven while the gravy is being prepared. Put a
little butter and flour to the liquor in which the kidneys
were cooked, pour it over them, and serve.
Fried Ox-Kidneys with Champagne. — Select some kidneys
that are of a good colour, remove a little of the fat, mince
them, mix with a little chopped parsley and shallots, and
sprinkle over salt and pepper. Place this in a frying-pan
over a moderate fire, and when done dust over with flour;
add 1 wineglassful of champagne and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls
of bd charnel sauce, and serve.
Ox-Kidney Pie. — Take an Ox-kidney and lib. of “skirting,”
cut them in pieces about 2in. square, and put them over
the fire in a saucepan with a seasoning of pepper and salt
and just sufficient water to cover them. Let them stew
gently till quite tender, then take them from the fire
and let them get nearly cold. Take the fat off, put the
meat and gravy into a pie-dish, lay a crust over it, and
bake for an hour.
Ox-Kidney Rissoles. — (1) Cut an Ox-kidney into even slices
and shape them into rounds, also the same quantity of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils Sauces, <Lc., referred to, see under their special heads.
56
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox-Kidneys — continued.
bacon or ham cut into smaller rounds. Place the slices
of bacon or ham over the kidney, then hard-boiled eggs
in slices over them, and fasten the slices together with a
little warmed butter and the beaten yolk of an egg.
Fig. 72. Ox-Kidney Rissoles.
Sprinkle over with salt and pepper, cover them well with
breadcrumbs, put them hi a saucepan with a little butter,
and fry for half-an-hour. Put them on a dish with brown
gravy. See Fig. 7 2.
(2) Cut an Ox-kidney, freed of fat and skin, in slices,
and sprinkle it over with a sprig of minced parsley and
one shallot, grated nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. Put them
in a frying-pan, fry for about lialf-an-hour, turning them
frequently, and add J pint of rich gravy mixed with 1
wineglassful of wine. Let this boil, and then add the
juice of half a lemon and loz. of butter. Garnish with
croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Ox-Kidney Saute. — (1) Cut a piece of Ox-kidney into halves
lengthwise, then cut each piece across into thin slices.
Put Jib. of butter into a saute-pan, melt it, then lay in
the slices of kidney ; season with pepper and salt, and fry
them till lightly browned over a quick fire, shaking the
pan frequently to ensure equal cooking ; take the slices out
of the pan, and place them where they may drain. Put 1J
breakfast-cupfuls of French white wine in a saucepan with
a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and boil till reduced to
one-fourth its original quantity. Put the pieces of kidney
back into the sautd-pan, dredge them with Hour, fry them
for two or three minutes, then pour in the reduced
wine and 1 teacupful each of broth and water, and boil
for five minutes. Mix in 1 table-spoonful of chopped
parsley. Put the kidney on to a hot dish, pour the gravy
over, and serve.
(2) Wash some kidneys, cut them into slices, and steep
them in cold water for a short time. Drain the kidneys,
put them into a frying-pan with a lump of butter, season
with pepper and salt, and cook slowly over the fire, shaking
the pan occasionally. When cooked, take the slices of
kidney up and arrange them on a hot dish : mix 1 tea-
spoonful of flour and about 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup
in udth the gravy, stir it over the fire till thick, then pour
it over the kidneys ; sprinkle a small quantity of finely-
chopped parsley over, and serve.
(3) Cut a kidney into very thin slices, put them in a
stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry for two or three
minutes over a brisk fire. When slightly coloured, dredge
the kidney with a small quantity of flour, add a few sliced
mushrooms and some chopped sweet herbs, moisten them
to height with broth and red wine in equal quantities,
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, season with salt,
pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, and cook gently
over a slow fire for five minutes. When cooked, put the
kidney on a hot dish, pour the cooking-liquor over it,
garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread,
and serve.
Ox-Kidney Soup. — Put the stock from a boiled leg of mutton
in a saucepan with a bullock’s kidney, and boil until it is
about half done. Take out the kidney, and cut it up into
small pieces. Add three or four sticks of celery, four turnips,
and the same of carrots (all cut up small) to the liquor,
and a small bunch of sweet herbs tied in a muslin bag.
Put in salt and pepper to taste, 1 table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup, and the chopped kidney, and boil slowly for
six hours. Take out the bunch of sweet herbs, and serve
the remainder in a tureen ; or it may be made the day
before it is wanted, and warmed before serving. All soups
are better served in this way.
Ox-Kidneys — continued.
Stewed Ox-Kidneys.— (1) Stew some Ox-kidneys in a little
salted water until done, put them on a dish, and sprinkle
over salt and pepper. Add a small quantity of flour to the
liquor to thicken, and a little burnt sugar to colour it,
pour it over the kidneys, and serve hot.
(2) Wash the kidneys thoroughly, cut them into small
thin slices, and dredge over with flour. Put a small sliced
onion into a stewpan with a lump of dripping, fry it
till beginning to brown, then put in the floured slices of
kidney, season with pepper and salt, and cover them with
cold water. When boiling, move the stewpan to the side
of the fire, and let the contents simmer for an hour. Mix
1 teaspoonful of flour with just sufficient water to make
it smooth, add a few drops of mushroom ketchup, then stir
it in with the kidney, and continue stirring over the fire
till the flour is cooked and the gravy thickened. Pour the
stew into a hot dish, garnish with some croutons of fried
bread or sippets of toast, sprinkle about 1 table-spoonful
of chopped parsley ouer, and serve.
(3) Remove all the fat from two large kidneys, cut them
into slices, put them into slightly-salted water for half-an-
hour, drain them, put them into a saucepan with ]J pints
of water, and boil slowly for two hours or until they are
tender. When they have been cooking for an-hour-and-
a-half, season with 1 pinch each of grated nutmeg, pepper,
and salt, and add a small minced onion. When done, pour
in 1 wineglassful of Madeira wine, make this hot, turn the
whole out on to a dish, and serve.
Ox-Liver. — In consistency this is much firmer and
coarser than pig’s, lamb’s, calf’s, or sheep’s liver, being
perforated by large hard pipes, which render it tough
and unpalatable. After removing these pipes and other
hard portions, it is possible to make some very tasty
dishes of it as follow :
Boiled Ox-Liver and Bice. — Put I Jib. of liver into cold
water, and let it remain in it for half an-hour to soak the
blood out; boil it gently in 3 pints of water together with
Jib. of rice, add an onion, a sprig of parsley, and when the
liver and rice are nearly cooked add pepper and salt to
taste, 2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a rasher of bacon
cut in pieces. Take the liver out, cut it in slices, and
return them to the stew till all are sufficiently done. Serve
hot.
Fried Ox-Liver with Onions. — Slice some large onions, put
them in a deep frying-pan with just sufficient water to
cover them, place the lid on the frying-pan, put it on the
fire, and let the liver boil till the water has evaporated ;
then put 1 large table-spoonful of lard in with the onions,
and fry them till brown. The liver should have previously
been cut in thin slices and put in salted water. Take the
onions out and keep them hot. Fry the liver in the same
fat, adding more lard if necessary, and sprinkle over pepper
and salt. When cooked, place the liver on a hot dish, put
a little mound of onions on each piece, sift some cracker
or dried breadcrumbs on the topi, and serve.
Fried Ox-Liver with Potatoes. — Take 31b. of liver, put
it in a saucepan over the fire in one piece, and stew gently
for three hours in a very little water ; then take it up and put
into the liquor 2lb. of potatoes nicely peeled and washed, lib.
of cabbage, turnips, or carrots, well washed and prepared, and
salt and pepper to taste. When the vegetables are almost
done, take them up, and break them into pieces about the
size of a walnut. Cut the liver into rather thin slices, and
fry it and the vegetables in hot dripping. When the liver
and vegetables are fried, put them on a hot dish, thicken
the liquor in the frying-pan with a small quantity of flour, •
and pour it boiling hot over the liver and vegetables.
Ox-Liver Gravy. — Drain the liver well by hanging it for
some time, then rub it over with salt and leave it on a
plate for twenty-four hours. Drain the liver again till all
the moisture has dripped out, then keep it hi a dry place till
ready to use. It makes an excellent gravy for cutlets and
all made dishes.
Ox-Marrow. — The fatty contents of the long bones
of the Ox are esteemed a great delicacy. At one time
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
57
Ox-Marrow — continued.
it was considered quite the fashion to serve marrow-hones
at table as a sort of luxurious supper-dish ; they were then
dressed as follows :
Marrow-bones. — (1) Take the bones from two legs of beef
and saw them into pieces about 4in. long. Scrape them
well to clean them, and put them in cold water to soak.
Place them in a saucepan (side by side, not standing up),
cover with good stock, boil up quickly, and then remove
the pan to the side of the fire and simmer gently for an-
hour-and-a-half. Take out the bones, drain, put them on
a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with slices of hot
toast.
(2) Have the bones chopped at the ends, so that when
sawn into halves each half will stand steady ; wash them
clean, saw each bone in two, tie over each half a floured
cloth, and boil them in water for two hours. Serve them
standing upright on a napkin (see Fig. 73). Send them
to table as hot as possible, and serve dry toast with them.
The value of Ox-marrow when in combination with other
foods, and therefore taking the place of other fat, may
be said to have been discovered quite recently; or, at
any rate, it is quite in later years that cooks seem to
have recognised its merit as seen in the following re-
ceipts. Ox-marrow from the bones must not be confounded
with that from the spinal column. See Amourettes.
Imitation Marrow Omelet. -Beat six eggs well, and season
them with pepper and a little salt that has been dissolved
in water. Put loz. of butter in an omelet-pan, place it
over the tire until melted, then move it to the side and
pour in the eggs. Turn the pan continually at the edge of
the fire, but without putting it right over, as this would be
too hot, and the middle part of the omelet must be kept
mellow. When set, roll the omelet up with a knife, turn
it on to a hot dish, and serve.
Ox-Marrow in Croustades. — With a plain round tin cutter
about lin. in diameter cut out of a solid lump of butter
as many croustades as are required. Dip the pats of
butter in beaten eggs, roll them well in finely-grated
breadcrumbs, and let them stand for an hour or two. Dip
the croustades again in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs, then
with a plain tin cutter fin. in diameter make a circular
incision in the centre of each. Lay the croustades in a
frying-basket, leaving a small space between each, plunge
them into boiling lard, and fry till lightly browned. When
cooked, lift the inner circle of the croustades and let the
interior butter drip out. Turn the croustades upside-down
on a cloth, and put them in a screen to diy. Pick the marrow
out of a bone, cut it into pieces the size of an almond,
and put them into a saucepan with some boiling milk and
water ; add a small quantity of salt-, and boil them for a
minute. Drain the pieces of marrow, mix them in some
hot Italian sauce, fill the croustades with the mixture,
and replace the lids. Put them on a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper that has been placed on a hot dish,
garnish with some ne it sprigs of fried parsley, and serve.
Ox-Marrow Fritters. — Put |lb. of marrow, taken from
the largest bones of the animal and kept in one piece, into
cold water, and let it soak. Put it into a saucepan with
good broth, boil it for ten minutes, and then let it cool
in its liquor. When quite cold, drain and cut it into two
Ox-Marrow — continued.
dozen slices ; cover half of them on one side only with some
cooked line herbs, and over that again put a layer of
cooked truffle, and glaze it all over (both truffle and
marrow) with a paste-brush ; when the glaze is cold, take
the pieces of marrow singly, dip them into frying-batter,
Fig. 74. Ox-Marrow Fritters.
and fry them ; when the batter is dry and of a good colour,
drain the fritters, put them on a napkin folded on a dish,
arrange them in a heap, and serve with a garnish of fried
parsley (see Fig. 74).
Ox-Marrow Garnishing. — Open two fine marrow bones by
setting them upright on the table, the marrow part on top,
and with a sharp blow of a cleaver splitting them in two,
striking on one side only. Remove the marrow, put it
into freshly-salted water, and let it remain for one hour ;
then take it up, drain, and cut it into slices. Heat
^ pint of Madeira sauce, add the pieces of marrow, and
let it boil up once with a few drops of tarragon vinegar.
Serve with the slices of marrow on top.
Ox-Marrow Patties. — (1) Blanch Jib. of sweet almonds and
pound them in a mortar, adding occasionally a few drops
of orange-flower water. When quite smooth, mix with
them 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of flour, the beaten yolks
of three eggs, and sufficient warm water to make the
whole into a smooth paste. Butter some small shallow
moulds, line them with the paste, brush over with a
paste-brush dipped in well-beaten yolk of egg, and bake
them in a slow oven. Chop and flavour some marrow with
lemon-peel and mix some thick cream with it. When the
patties are cooked, take them out of their moulds, put a
small piece of the marrow mixture in each, spread them
over with white of egg that has been whipped to a stiff
froth, and dredge lightly over with caster sugar. Put them
in the oven to set the egg, then place them on a dish that
has been garnished with a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper, and serve very hot.
(2) Scoop the marrow out of the bones, cut it into small
pieces, boil them for a minute in salted water, then put
them on a sieve to drain. Line some buttered patty-pans
until thinly rolled out puli' paste, fill them with uncooked
rice, cover with rounds of puff paste, and bake them.
Season the marrow with salt, pepper, finely-chopped shallot,
and a small quantity of lemon-juice. When cooked, empty
the rice out of the patties, fill them with the marrow, and
replace the covers. Spread a folded napkin or a fancy
dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the patties on it, and
serve while hot.
Ox-Marrow Pudding (Baked). — (1) Pour 1 pint of boiling
milk over the crumb of a household loaf of bread, and
when it is quite cold work in four eggs, 1 lb. of marrow
cut into thin slices, and 1 teacupful of brandy mixed with
sugar and nutmeg to taste ; when they are all thoroughly
incorporated, put the mass into a well-buttered tin or mould,
place some slices of citron on the top, and bake in a moderate
oven until done. Turn it out and serve. Or it may be boiled
in the mould and will take about two hours; when done,
turn it out, stick the pieces of citron over it, and serve.
(2) Cut some very thin slices of bread, and put a layer
at the bottom of a pie-dislfi, over this put a layer of marrow
or finely-chopped beef-suet, on top of that a layer of currants,
washed and dried, then a layer of bread, another layer
of marrow or suet, then currants, and so on till the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
58
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox- M arrow — continued.
dish is nearly filled. Mix four well-beaten eggs with 4oz.
of sugar, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and lqt. of
cream; pour this mixture over the pudding, allowing it
time to soak, put the pudding in the oven, and hake for
half-an-hour.
(3) Remove all the fibre from 6oz. of Ox-marrow, chop
it up, hut not too finely, and add to it Jib. each of crushed
macaroons and finely-sifted breadcrumbs, loz. or 2oz. of
blanched and pounded sweet almonds, and a seasoning
of candied citron, caster sugar, and grated nutmeg. Put
all these into a bowl, and stir in 2 breakfast-cupfuls of
rich cream, the beaten yolks of six eggs, and 1 wineglass-
ful of ratafia. Turn the preparation into a mould or shape,
put it hi the oven, and bake until browned. Serve hot.
(4) Pour 1J ] lints of boiling milk over 1 breakfast-cupful
of breadcrumbs, and let them soak for half-an-hour. Cut
6oz. of marrow into fine shreds, mix them with the bread-
crumbs, and add Jib. of well-washed and dried currants,
sugar to taste, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and
four well-beaten eggs. Butter a pie-dish, line it with puff
paste, and turn the mixture into it ; hake it a little under
an hour. When cooked, stand the pie-dish on a flat dish,
and serve the pudding. If preferred, the pudding may be
turned into a buttered mould and boiled for two-hours-and
a-half. If cooked the latter way, caster sugar should lie
sifted over it when turned out of the mould.
(5) Boil 1 pint of new milk with a piece of stick cinna
mon and the peel of half a lemon until flavoured with
these ingredients. Chop Jib. of Ox-marrow, put it in a
basin, and strain the boiling milk over. Next mix in Jib.
of well-washed and picked currants, 2oz. of thinly-shred
candied orange and lemon-peel, 1 table spoonful of brandy,
4 table-spoonful of syrup of cloves, a small quantity of
grated nutmeg, and Jib. of crushed Naples biscuits. Stir
the ingredients until thoroughly incorporated, and when
cold mix in the beaten yolks of four eggs and the whites
of two. Butter a small pie-dish, line the edges with puff
paste, pour in the mixture, and bake it. Serve the pudding
either hot or cold.
(6) Beat up the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of
four, and mix with them 4 pint of milk and 1 pint of
cream boiled together with a blade of mace and half a
nutmeg grated. Mix the boiled milk and cream with the
eggs by degrees, sweeten well, strain it through a sieve,
and then add to it 1 table-spoonful of orange-flower water.
Put two Naples biscuits crushed to powder at the bottom
of a pudding-dish together with the marrow of a large bone,
Jib. of stoned raisins, Jib. of currants washed and dried,
and loz. of citron cut in slices ; pour the strained custard |
over, put it in the oven, and bake.
(7) Boiled. — Pour lqt. of boiling milk over 1J breakfast-
cupfuls of finely- grated breadcrumbs, cover, and leave them
until well soaked. Finely shred Jib. of marrow, stone and
chop 3oz. of raisins, and wash 3oz. of currants. Mix these |
ingredients with the soaked crumbs, and stir in six well- j
beaten eggs ; sweeten to taste with caster sugar and |
flavour with a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Butter j
a pudding-basin, fill it with the above mixture, tie a floured '
cloth over it, and boil for two hours. When cooked, turn
the pudding on to a hot dish, dust over with caster sugar,
and serve.
(8) Cut lib. of Ox-marrow into thin pieces and put it
into a basin with the finely-grated crumbs of a stale penny
roll, 3 heap ;d table -spoonfuls of caster sugar, 1 pint of
boiling cream, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and
leave them to soak for ten or fifteen minutes. Beat four
eggs until very light, then pour them over the above
ingredients, also 1 wineglassful of pale brandy, and stir
until well mixed. Butter the interior of a mould, pour in
the mixture, tie a thick pudding-cloth over the top, plunge
it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for three-
quarters-of-an-hour. When cooked, turn the pudding out
of the mould on to a hot dish, and serve.
Ox-Marrow Quenelles.— (1 ) Put Jib. of marrow into a
basin with its equal quantity of breadcrumbs, add 2
table-spoonfuls of flour, salt and pepper to taste, and work
it into a smooth paste with the yolks of six eggs and the
white of one. Take it out a little at a time, poach in
Ox-Marrow — continued.
boiling salted water, drain them, trim them round, and
serve very hot.
(2) Coarsely chop Jib. of marrow, and mix with it the
well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Cut a French roll into thin
slices, toast them a light brown, and cut them into small
squares. Put the crumb of another roll hi sufficient milk
to moisten it, then mix 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped
parsley and a small quantity of salt with it. Mix all the
ingredients together, and dredge in sufficient flour to bring
it to a consistency. Cut the mixture into small quantities,
roll them to the shape of an egg, throw them into a sauce-
pan of boiling water, and boil for ten minutes. Serve
them in a tureen with soup.
(3) Soak a slice or two of crumb of bread in a small
quantity of milk ; chop 4oz. of marrow, then mix it with
the bread ; season with salt and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, stir in two well-beaten eggs ami sufficient flour
to make it thick. Work the mixture well, then divide it
into small pieces about the size of a walnut, and roll them
round. Put a lump of butter in a deep frying-pan, melt
it, then put in the balls, and fry them until browned all
over. Drain, arrange them on a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve. Or they
may be served as a garnish with ragouts or hashes.
Ox-Marrow Rissoles. — Put a large piece of Ox-marrow into
cold water to soak, then put it into a saucepan with broth,
boil it for about ten minutes, and let it get quite cold in
the liquor. Cut the marrow into pieces about the size of
an olive, and dip them twice into well-reduced brown sauce
finished with glaze ; put them on .a baking-sheet, and let
the sauce cool. Have ready some puff paste at seven turns,
roll it out in a long, rectangular thin strip, put small
quantities of the marrow on it about 1 in. from the edge,
damp the paste round the marrow, fold the paste over so
as to cover it, and cut out the rissoles with a channelled
paste-cutter. Dip them in beaten egg, sprinkle them over
with crushed vermicelli, and fry in a little fat over a slow
fire until done. Take them out, drain, arrange them hi a
group on a napkin on a dish, and serve.
Ox-Marrow-and-Sponge-Cake Pudding. Take Jib. of stale
sponge cake and crumble it very fine. Chop 2oz. of Ox-
marow very fine, and mix it with the cake-crumbs. Beat
up four eggs very light with Jib. of caster sugar, mix with
them gradually J pint of milk, pour this mixture over the
cake-crumbs and chopped marrow, and mix well together ;
then beat in 1 table-spoonful of flour with a very little
salt mixed in it, and Jib. of layer raisins, stoned, chopped,
plentifully dredged with flour, and mixed with 4oz. of citron
chopped very fine. Continue to stir and beat till the fruit
is evenly distributed, then pour it into a buttered pudding-
tin, and boil for three hours. Serve hot with cabinet-
pudding sauce.
Ox-Marrow Tart. — Put four eggs into a basin and mix
them up with 4oz. of flour and a pinch of salt, and pour
in f pint of milk. Whisk well, and pour it through a
sieve into a saucepan ; add a small lump of butter,
stirring frequently over the fire to prevent it getting
lumpy. When it is rather thick, add 8oz. of dissolved
sugar, a little of this being flavoured with vanilla.
Work vigorously for eight or nine minutes longer to complete
the mixture, then remove the pan to the side of the fire
and add 8oz. of chopped and melted Ox -marrow and 2
table-spoonfuls of milk of almonds. The marrow must be
passed through a sieve before being added. Work well
for five minutes longer, then let the whole cool. In the
meantime prepare a puff paste with a little more than 8oz.
each of flour and butter, give it six turns, and lastly
roll it into a flat about Jin. in thickness. Cut oft' two strips
lengthwise about lin. wide, then roll out the paste in a
flat about -Jjin. thick and 1 foot in diameter. Spread this
over a tart-pan, trim it round, damp the edges with a paste-
brush, and pour in the marrow cream, spreading it over to
about Jin. thick, following the outlines of the paste but
keeping quite lin. from the edge. Wet the edges of the
paste, and put the strips of paste on it, following the out-
lines, and join the ends neatly. Put the pan into a hot
oven, and when the paste has well risen, glaze it with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
59
Ox- Marrow — continued.
sugar. Let it remain in the oven for two minutes, take it
out, and serve very hot, or it will lose all its best qualities.
Ox-Marrow on Toast. — (1) Take out the marrow from
some bones, keeping it as large as possible, and put it
into a saucepan of well-salted boiling water ; let it remain
for one minute, and then drain off the water through a
Fig. 75. Ox-Marrow on Toast.
very fine sieve. Take out the marrow, put it on some
pieces of toasted bread, place them in the oven, and cook
for five minutes or so. Sprinkle over chopped parsley,
salt, and pepper, and serve very hot. See Fig. 75.
(2) Stop up the ends of a marrow-bone with a mixture
of flour and water made into a stiff paste, put it into a
saucepan of boiling water, and boil for two hours. Have
ready some pieces of toasted bread, scoop out the marrow
on to them, sprinkle over salt and pepper and a little
finely-chop ped parsley, warm the pieces of toast thoroughly
in tlie oven, and serve hot.
Ox-Muzzles. — It is said that an artistic cook can make
a tasty dish out of any material that is, or can be made
soft enough to be eaten. This would appear to be fully
borne out by the two following receipts converting Ox-
snouts into luxuries :
Curried Ox-Muzzle.- -Take a boiled Ox-muzzle and divide it
into middling-sized squares ; chop one onion, fry it in a
stewpan with butter, without allowing it to take colour,
add it to the pieces of meat, fry them also, and sprinkle
over 2 table-spoonfuls of flour and the same quantity of
curry powder. Two minutes later moisten (off the fire, and
by degrees) with broth and a little white wine ; add a
bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, stir over the fire till it
begins to boil, and then remove to the side to simmer.
Twenty-five minutes after, skim the fat off the sauce
and thicken with two or three yolks of eggs diluted with
cream. Finish by squeezing in the juice of two lemons,
and dish up with a border of rice.
Ox-Muzzle stewed in Piquant Sauce. — Singe an Ox-muzzle,
soak it for a few hours, put it into a stewpan with water,
and let it boil ; then drain the muzzle, sponge it, and
scrape its inside in order to disengage the white skin. Let
it boil, and carefully remove the fillet of the palate as
soon as it is done. When the muzzle is cooked sufficiently,
drain it, cut it, as well as the palate, into middling-sized
squares, and put them into a stewpan. Pour in piquant
sauce to nearly their height, and let the stew simmer over
a very slow lire for a-quarter-an-hour. Dish up quite plain.
Ox-Palates. — These are the thick white corrugated
linings of the upper jaws of the Ox, constituting the roof
Fig. 76. Imitation Cocks’ Combs for Garnish, made of Ox-Palates.
of the mouth, and extending from the front teeth
to the posterior opening of the nose. They are not
Ox- Palates — continued .
peculiar for fine flavour, but for their firm gelatinous
consistency, which permits them to be made up into
a variety of dishes. One use to which they are
especially adapted is that
of making artificial cocks’
combs (see Fig. 76), cut
out with either a pair of
sharp scissors or a punch
(see Fig. 77) specially
made for the purpose.
After eaux of Ox-Palates.
Cut up a few boiled Ox-
palates into squares of iin.,
and place them in a kitchen
basin ; season, mix in 3
table-spoonfuls, of cooked
sweet herbs, and add half
their volume of truffles and
mushrooms cut the same
size as the Ox-palates. Run PuNCH for Imitation Cocks’ Combs.
small skewers through the
squares of meat, truffles, and mushrooms, and dip them
into some villeroy sauce which has been preparing at the
same time, and is still warm. Set them on a baking-slieet,
at small distances, and let the sauce cool. Afterwards
take them off the baking-slieet, roll them in breadcrumbs,
dip into beaten eggs, and bread once more. When wanted,
plunge into hot hog’s lard, and as soon as they assume a
nice colour, drain, and dish up on a folded napkin with
plenty of fried parsley round.
Blanquette of Ox-Palates with Truffles. Rub some Ox-
palates over with salt, put them in a saucepan with a
slice of lemon, a small lump of butter, 1 saltspoonful of
salt, and water enough to cover, and stew them. Cut
some truffles into pieces the size of a shilling, season them
with salt, put them into a frying-pan with a lump of butter,
and fry lightly over a brisk fire till cooked. Put the
truffles into a sauce a la blanquette, give them one boil
up, move the sauce to the side of the fire, and thicken
with a liaison of beaten eggs. Drain the palates, skin
them, put them into the sauce, then turn the whole into
a deep dish, and serve.
Bouchees of Ox-Palate. — Chop up two cold cooked Ox-
palates into very small pieces, and put them into a
saucepan with one-third of their bulk of chopped cooked
mushrooms; pour a few table-spoonfuls of very good be-
chamel sauce into another saucepan, reduce it, stirring
continually, and adding gradually h teacupful of melted
glaze. Add it to the salpipon of Ox-palates and mushrooms,
and put the saucepan containing them into the bain-marie
to keep hot. Have ready some bouchees cases made of
puff' paste, remove the top, put in some of the mixture,
cover them over, arrange on a napkin spread over a dish,
and serve.
Braised Ox-Palates. — Put two Ox-palates into a basin of
salted water, and let them soak for a few hours; take them
Fig. 78. Braised Ox-Palates.
out, put them into a saucepan of salted water, and parboil
them, so that the hard skin may be easily scraped off.
Wash them well, put them into another saucepan, and
add some carrot, onion, and celery cut into pieces, a few
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
60
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox-Palates — continued.
cloves, peppercorns, and mace, a sprig or so of parsley, and
3qts. of stock or water. Set the pan on the lire and cook
gently for four hours. Take them out when done, press
them between two dishes or boards, and let them remain
until they are cold. Cut them with a tin cutter into
rounds, put them into another saucepan with a little of
their stock reduced to glaze, and cook slowly for ten
minutes. When done, put them on a dish in a circle, pour
round some Italian sauce, fill the cavity with small
mushrooms, or green peas, &c., and serve. See Fig. 73.
Broiled Ox-Palates. — (1) Put three Ox-palates into a basin
of salted water and let them soak for several hours; take
them out, put them into a saucepan with more salted
water, parboil them, and scrape off the skin. Put them
into another saucepan with 3 breakfast-cupfuls of milk, and
add a small lump of butter rolled in flour, one clove, one
shallot, a bunch of parsley and thyme, and salt and pepper
to taste. Place the pan on the fire and simmer gently for
about an hour; take out the palates, cover them with
well -beaten yolk of egg, then roll them in breadcrumbs,
and broil gently. Put them on a dish, pour some piquant
sauce round them, and serve.
(2) Blanch three Ox-palates for about ten minutes, and
when they are cold take them out, drain, scrape them
very carefully, and cut into halves. Put them into a
saucepan with 1 teacupful of dripping or fat, one faggot,
one onion weighing about :}lb., one clove, loz. of salt, and
3 break fast -cupfuls of broth. Put the pan on the fire and
boil the contents gently for three hours. Take out the palates
if done, drain them on a cloth, and remove any fat that
may still be adhering to them. Place them in a circle
on a dish, and serve with a little Italian sauce.
Curried Ox-Palates. — Prepare two Ox-palates as for
braising, cutting them up into shapes. Put them into a
saucepan with sufficient brown stock to cover, and add
one or two onions cut in slices, 1 table-spoonful of curry
powder, half the quantity of curry paste, 2 table-spoon-
fuls of flour mixed in a little stock, and salt to taste.
Put the pan on the fire, stir frequently, and cook gently
until the palates are done. Just before serving, add 2
table-spoonfuls of cream to the liquor, mix it in, turn the
whole out on to a dish, and serve very hot.
Fricandeau of Ox-Palates. — Wash, parboil, and skin
three Ox-palates as for Broiled Palates, cut them up
into squares, lard them, put them into a frying-pan with
a little butter, and fry till brown; then take them out
and put them on a strainer to drain. Pour a little less
than 3 teacupfuls of beef gravy into a saucepan with
1 table-spoonful of port wine, and add 1 teaspoonful of
browning, a shallot and anchovy, a little horseradish, and
1 table-spoonful of lemon pickle. Put the pan on the fire,
noil it up, strain off the liquor into another saucepan con-
taining the palates, and stew gently for thirty minutes.
Put them on a dish when done, add a little thickening to
the gravy, pour it over, and serve.
Fricassee of Ox-Palates. — Rub the palates over with salt,
and put them in a saucepan with a slice of lemon, a lump
of butter, and sufficient water to cover. Boil the palates
till the skin can be easily removed, skin them, and cut
them into small pieces. Put 2oz. of butter into a sauce-
pan with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, stir it over the
fire till well mixed, but do not let it colour, then pour
in gradually I pint of chicken broth, and boil. Flavour
the sauce with green onions, mushrooms, and a bunch of
parsley, skim it, and reduce till of the required thickness ;
then strain it through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan.
Put the palates into the sauce and make them hot again.
Serve the palates either in a casserole of rice or a vol au-vent.
Fricassee of Ox-Palates with Cucumbers. — Boil the palates
in salted water with a slice of lemon and a lump of
butter till tender, then drain, skin, and cut them into small
pieces. Peel some cucumbers and cut them into small pieces.
Put a lump of butter into a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls
of flour, stir it over the fire till well mixed, but not
browned, then put in some green onions, mushrooms, a
bunch of parsley, and the trimmings of the onions ; pour in
sufficient chicken broth to make the sauce when reduced.
Ox-Palates — continued.
Boil the sauce till it is well flavoured with the herbs,
then strain it through a fine hair sieve into another sauce-
pan, put the pieces of cucumber in, and simmer them
gently till tender. Take the pieces of cucumber out of
the sauce, and reduce and thicken the sauce with the yolks of
two eggs that have been beaten with a little cream. Put
the Ox-palates and cucumbers in the sauce, and heat them
up again without boiling. Turn the fricassee into a hot
deep dish, and serve.
Fricassee of Ox Palates with Peas. — Put the palates in a
saucepan with a piece of lemon, a lump of salt, and suffi-
cient water to cover, and boil them till tender. When
cooked, skin the palates and cut them up. Put 2oz. of
butter into a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour,
stir it over the fire till well mixed, then add a few green
onions and some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and 1
pint of chicken broth. Stir the sauce till thick, then boil
till somewhat reduced. Strain the sauce through a fine
hair sieve into another saucepan. Cook some peas in
butter, put them in the sauce, boil it up again, put in the
palates, and flavour the sauce with sugar and salt,
allowing the sugar to predominate. Serve the palates in
a vol-au-vent or rice casserole.
Fricassee of Ox-Palates with Truffles.— The palates
must be boiled till tender in salted water in which has
been put a slice of lemon and a lump of butter. Drain
and skin the palates, and cut them into small pieces. Put
2oz. of butter and 2 table-spoonfuls of flour into a sauce-
pan, and stir over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes, but
do not let it take colour; then pour in gradually the re-
quired quantity of chicken broth, add a few mushrooms,
green onions, and a bunch of parsley, and boil the
sauce till well flavoured with the herbs. Strain the sauce
into another stewpan, season it with salt and sugar, and
boil till reduced. Cut some truffles into small pieces, put
them in a frying-pan with some butter, season with salt,
and fry over a brisk fire. Move the sauce to the side of
the fire and stir in a liaison of beaten yolks of eggs ; put
the truffles and palates into the sauce, and make them hot
again without boiling. Turn the fricassee into a deep dish
or a casserole of rice, and serve.
Fried Ox-Palates. —Wash, parboil, and scrape off the skin
from three Ox-palates, put them into a saucepan with suffi-
cient water or stock ( see Stock) to cover, and boil for two
hours. Take them out, cut them in halves, spread a layer of
forcemeat over them, sprinkle with salt, roll them up, and
tie them. Put the yolks of three eggs into a basin with
1 table-spoonful of clarified butter, and make them into a
thick batter by adding flour ; also add 1 wineglassful of
white wine slowly. Put the palates in this batter, place
them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry to a light
brown ; when done, drain them, remove the strings, set
them neatly on to a dish, and serve very hot.
Ox-Palates d la Financiere. — Put half-a-dozen Ox-palates
into a basin of salted water, and let them soak for a few
hours. Take them out, wash well, put them into a sauce-
pan with more salted water, and parboil them in order to
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Ac., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
61
Ox-Palates — continued.
scrape off the hard skin with ease. Put them into another
saucepan with Jgall. of stock, and add a stick of celery,
one onion, one carrot cut up small, a few sprigs of parsley,
a blade of mace, six cloves, a clove of garlic, six pepper-
corns, and salt to taste. Put the pan on the fire and boil
gently for four hours, when the palates should be quite
done. Take out the palates, press them between two dishes,
and when they are cold cut them up into pieces 2in. wide
and 3in. long. Put a layer of quenelle forcemeat mixed
with a little fine herbs over the palates, roll each up in a
piece of well-buttered paper, put them into a saute-pan, and
cook for about twenty minutes in a little of the liquor in
which the palates were cooked. When they are done, take
them out, remove the paper, roll them hi some half-glaze,
and put them in the centre of a dish in the form of a cone,
with sautes potatoes round them (see Fig. 79) and the
strained liquor poured over the whole.
Ox-Palates au Gratin. Put five Ox-palates into a basin
of boiling water, and keep them there until the skin comes
off easily by scraping with a knife. Dip them into water
to freshen them, put them into a saucepan with a little
white wine, and add a few peppercorns and cloves, salt to
taste, a carrot and onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Pour over sufficient water to cover the whole, put the pan
on the fire, and boil for five hours or so. Cut four dozen
mushrooms into slices. Put a chopped onion into a sauce-
pan with a little butter, cook it gently, stirring continually,
but do not let it take colour; put in the mushrooms, and
when their moisture has evaporated, add a clove of garlic,
with a little cayenne and salt to taste. Pour in a few table-
spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, boil up once, and remove the
pan from the fire. When the palates are done, take them
out, drain, wipe them well with a cloth, cut them into
small pieces of an oblong shape, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, mix them into the sauce mixture, and add a little
finely-chopped parsley. Put the palates with the sauce into
a deep dish, cover with breadcrumbs, pour over a little
warmed butter, put the dish in the oven, and cook for twenty
minutes. Take out the dish, and the palates are ready to
be served.
Ox-Palates a la Lyonnaise. -Put two Ox-palates into a
saucepan of boiling water and blanch them. Trim them,
put them on a gridiron over a quick lire, and cook for a
minute; take off the skin, and put them in a saucepan with
the following thickening: Put lib. of clarified butter into
a saucepan, and when it has melted stir in 111), of flour;
then pour in the required quantity of stock to make the
sauce. Set the pan containing the palates on the fire and
cook them until done ; take them out, cut them into
small pieces, mix them up with a puree of onions, and
they are ready for use.
Ox-Palates a la Ravigote. — Put four Ox-palates in a
basin, cover with warm water, and leave them until well
disgorged ; then put them in a stewpan with fresh water,
and place them over the fire until they begin to harden.
Plunge the palates into cold water and scrape the skin off
with a knife. If the skin does not come off easily, they
should be left over the fire a little longer. When well
scraped, put the palates in a stewpan with white stock
to cover, and boil them until very tender. Lay the palates
on a plate with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of their cooking-
liquor, cover with another plate, and leave them until
quite cold. Put a chopped shallot in a saucepan with loz.
of butter, stir it over a slow fire for five minutes,
then pour in lqt. of white veal stock : stir and boil it
until reduced to the consistency of thick cream, then move
it to the side and mix in quickly the beaten yolks of two
eggs> seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, and a small
quantity of chopped parsley. Divide each palate into
three pieces, trim them to an oval shape, dip them one at
a time in the sauce, and lay them on a plate until cold.
Peel and boil 31b. or 411). of potatoes, and when soft drain
them and mash them with a little milk or butter ; press
them into a border mould and stand this in a bain-marie.
Roll the palates into beaten egg, breadcrumb them well,
roll them in the egg again, and afterwards in the bread-
crumbs, giving them a good coating. Put a large lump of
Ox-Palates — continued.
lard into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire until blue
smoke rises, then put in the palates and fry them until
nicely browned on both sides. Turn the border of mashed
potatoes on to a hot dish, arrange the palates on it in a
crown, pour a ravigote sauce round them, and serve.
Ox-Palates a la Vivandiere. — Disgorge four Ox-palates,
put them in a stewpan of water, and place them over the
fire until they begin to harden ; then put them in cold
water and scrape off all the skin. Foil them in white
stock until tender, put them on a plate with 2 or 3
table-spoonfuls of the stock, cover with another plate, and
leave them until cold. Put a chopped shallot in a sauce-
pan with a small lump of butter, stir it over the fire for
a few minutes, then pour in lqt. of bechamel sauce. Boil
and stir the sauce until of a creamy thickness, then move
it to the side of the fire and stir in quickly the beaten
yolks of two eggs ; season to taste with salt and pepper
and a small quantity of finely-chopped parsley. Divide
each palate into three pieces, trim each piece to an oval
shape, dip them well in the sauce, and lay them on a
plate until cold. Peel and finely chop three moderate-sized
onions, put them in a stewpan with loz. of butter, and fry
until lightly browned. Drain the butter off the onions, and
pour over them 1 wineglassful of port wine and a piece of
glaze about the size of a walnut. Stir over the fire until
the glaze has melted, then pour in 1 4 breakfast-cupfuls
of brown sauce and barely 1 breakfast-cupful of broth.
Boil and stir the sauce until the thickness of cream, then
move it off the fire and mix with it 1 teaspoonful of
sugar and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Roll the
palates in beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs, repeating the
operation twice. Put a large lump of lard or clarified fat
into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire until blue smoke
rises, then put in the palates and fry them until nicely
browned. When the palates are taken out of the fat,
place them on a sheet of kitchen-paper for a minute to
drain. Arrange the palates in a circle on a hot dish, pour
the sauce round them, put a bunch of fried parsley in the
centre, and serve.
Ox-Palates eii Papillote. -Prepare the palates by first dis-
gorging, then blanching them to harden, and scrajie off
the skin. When done, put them in a saucepan with white
stock, and boil for three or four hours. When very tender,
put the palates on a dish, with a few spoonfuls of their
cooking-liquor, put another dish over them, and leave them
until cold. Put about 4 teacupful of salad-oil in a stew-
pan with a chopped moderate-sized onion, stir it over a
brisk fire for a few minutes, drain off the oil, pour in 4
breakfast-cupfuls of white sauce, and add two chopped mush-
rooms and 1 scant table -spoonful of chopped parsley ; stir
the sauce and boil it for seven or eight minutes. Cut each
palate into three pieces, which trim to an oval shape ; put
them into the sauce, and boil for a few minutes longer,
seasoning with a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Turn
file palates and sauce on to a dish, and leave them until
cold. Cut as many pieces of white paper to the shape of
hearts as there are pieces of palates, making them large
enough to fold over them. Spread some of the cold sauce
over the papers, put the pieces of palate on them, mask
that also with some of the sauce, and twist the papers up. Lay
them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear but not too fierce
a fire for ten minutes, turning them when done on one
side. Arrange the palates, leaving them in the papers, in
a circle on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with a group
of fried parsley in the centre, and serve with a sauce-
boatful of Italian sauce.
Ox-Palate Croquettes. -Put three Ox-palates into a sauce-
pan with sufficient water to cover, and boil over a mode-
rate fire until done. Take them out, trim, scrape, and cut
them into quarters. Put them into another saucepan with
two heads of cloves, a clove of garlic, a little thyme and
bay-leaves, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient stock
to cover, and simmer gently for thirty minutes ; then take out
the quarters of palates, put I teaspoonful of beef forcemeat
on each, roll them up, and dip into a thin paste made with
a little Hour, 1 table-spoonful of olive oil, and 4 pint of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
62
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox-Palates — continued.
white wine. Plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling fat,
fry until done, arrange them on a dish with a garnish of
fried parsley, and serve very hot, or they will be spoilt.
Paupiettes of Ox-Palates. — (1) Cut oft' five or six fillets from
some Ox-palates that have been cooked ; trim, and cut
them into halves. Have ready a salpicon of cooked fine
herbs finished with trutHes and thickened with forcemeat,
cover the fillets over with it, and roll them round into the
shape of paupiettes, fastening them with small skewers.
Dip them into well-beaten egg, cover with breadcrumbs,
put them into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and fry until
they are done. Take them out, drain, remove the skewers,
place them on a napkin on a dish in the form of a
pyramid, and serve.
(2) Pare ten cooked fillets of Ox-palates, cut off a little from
each end, cover them on one side with some uncooked
forcemeat mixed with a quarter of its bulk of minced fat
liver, roll the paupiettes into shape, secure them with
string, and wrap them round with thin slices of bacon.
Put them into a flat saucepan close together, pour over a
little stock and white wine, place the pan on the fire,
and cook them. When done, remove the string and slices
of bacon, trim them, and glaze carefully. Have ready a
moderately thick layer of forcemeat poached on a dish
to form a round, put it on a dish, place the paupiettes in
a circle, standing on their ends, round it, fill the cavity
in the centre with cooked minced truffles, and serve. A
sauceboatful of brown sauce reduced with truffles should
accompany this dish.
Pickled Ox-Palates. — Wash four Ox-palates, put them in
a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, three blades of
mace, two or three cloves, and !qt. of water, seasoning to
taste with salt and pepper. Boil the palates until quite
tender (they will take about five hours), then drain and
remove their skins, keeping them covered until cold. Put
1 J pints of vinegar and an equal quantity of white wine
into a saucepan with the mace that was previously boiled
with the palates, four cloves, and a few peppercorns, and
boil them for ten minutes ; then take the mixture oft' the
fire and leave it until cold. Put the palates in an earthen-
ware jar with two bay-leaves, five or six peppercorns,
and a blade of mace, then pour the pickle oter them. Tie
paper over the top of the jar, and keep it for use in a
store cupboard.
Rolled Ox-Palates. -Boil the palates until the skin may
be easily peeled oft', then trim them, and chop the trim-
mings. Put loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour into
a small stewpan and mix them over the fire, then put
in the chopped trimmings, with 1 wineglassful of sherry,
salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of the
liquor in which the palates were boiled, and let them
simmer gently at the edge of the fire. Prepare a sufficient
quantity of nicely-flavoured forcemeat to mask the palates
with. Brush the outside of the palates over with a paste-
brush dipped in beaten yolk of egg, spread the forcemeat
over them, roll up tightly, and tie them round with fine
twine; lay them in a stewpan with a large lump of
butter and milk to moisten to their height, and stew them
very gently at the side of the lire for two hours. At the
end of that time turn the trimmings and their gravy on to a
hoT dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, lay the rolled
palates on the top, garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs and
pickles, and serve. If any of the forcemeat is left after the
palates are covered, it should be rolled into small balls,
fried in butter, and placed round the dish.
Stewed Ox-Palates. — (1) Wash six palates, put them in a
bowl of warm water, and soak them for a few hours until
thoroughly disgorged. When ready, skin the palates, put
them in a saucepan with plenty of water, and stew until
tender. Then drain and cut them into small pieces. Put
loz. of butter in a saucepan with I table-spoonful of flour,
and stir it over the lire until mixed ; then pour in 1 J pints
of veal broth, \ wineglassful of sherry, 1 table-spoonful of
mushroom ketchup, and 1 table-spoonful of burnt sugar
colouring. Stir the liquor over the fire until boiling, then
put in the palates, one onion peeled and stuck with three
cloves, and a slice of lemon. Move the saucepan to the edge
Ox-Palates — continued.
of the fire, and keep the contents simmering for five hours.
Prepare a dozen veal -forcemeat balls, put them in a flat
stewpan with boiling fat, and fry until nicely browned.
Put the balls on a sheet of kitchen-paper near the fire to
drain for a minute or two. Put the palates on a hot dish
when they are cooked, strain the gravy over them,
garnish with the forcemeat balls, and serve.
(2) Put the palates over the fire in a saucepan with
sufficient milk to cover, and let them simmer till they will
peel easily. When peeled, stew them till very tender in a
fricassee sauce, adding to it a small quantity of cream,
thickening it with flour and butter, and flavouring with
mushroom powder and a very little pounded mace.
Stewed Stuffed Ox-Palates.— Put four Ox-palates into a
basin of salted water, wash them well, put them into a
saucepan with more salted water, and boil for an hour.
Take them out, scrape off the skin, reduce the liquor to a
breakfast-cupful, and strain it into a basin. When the palates
are quite cold, trim them and spread over them some good
veal stuffing, roll them up into shape, and tie round
with tape or string. Put a lump of butter into a sauce-
pan, and when it has melted add a little flour, and cook
until it is brown. Dip the palates into well-beaten egg,
put them in the saucepan with the butter, and cook until
they are brown also. Pour in the ^ pint of stock, toss the
pan over the fire until the liquor boils, then remove it to
the side to keep hot without boiling. Add 1 teaspoonful
of ketchup to the liquor, take out the palates, remove the
tape or string, arrange them on a dish in a circle, pour the
liquor in the centre, and serve.
Turban of Ox-Palates. Place the palates in lukewarm
water until the blood has well disgorged, drain them,
put them in a saucepan with sufficient fresh water to cover,
and place them over the fire until they harden ; then plunge
the palates into cold water and scrape the skins off. Boil
the palates until tender in white stock, put them on a
plate with a little of their cooking-liquor, cover with another
plate, and leave them until cold. Prepare some veal force-
meat, and make a border with some of it on a gratin-
disli. Cut each palate into three pieces, trim them to an
oval shape, cover them with the remainder of the force-
meat, ihen roll them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs.
Fio. 80. Turban of Ox-Palates.
Arrange the palates in a crown on the border of forcemeat
(see Fig. SO), and place the dish in a moderate oven ; in
lialf-an-hour’s time, place a sheet of paper over the palates,
and leave them in the oven for another quarter-of-an-hour.
When ready, pour an Italian sauce over them, and serve
while very hot.
Vol-au-Vent of Ox-Palates. -Disgorge four Ox-palates in
warm water, then put them in a saucepan with fresh cold
water, and place them over the fire until they harden ; put
them in cold water and scrape off all the skin. Return
them to the saucepan with white stock to cover, and boil
until tender. Then place them oir a plate with a few table-
spoonfuls of the stock, cover with another plate, and
leave them until cold. Prepare lib. of puff paste, giving
it six turns, roll it out, and trim it to a round shape ;
mark the edges of the paste with the back of a knife.
Sprinkle a little water over a baking-sheet, lay the paste
on it, and brush the top over with a paste-brush dipped
in beaten egg. Dip a knife in hot water, and with the
point cut a circle half-way through the paste and about
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
63
Ox-Falates — continued.
|in. from the edge. Bake the paste in a brisk oven, cover-
ing it with a sheet of paper when it begins to take colour.
When the palates are cold, cut them into small rounds with
a tin cutter about lin. in diameter, put them in a sauce-
pan with a few mushrooms, lqt. of bechamel or white
sauce, and U- teacupfuls of white stock. Boil for half-
an-hour, then move the saucepan to the side of the fire,
and mix in with the palates loz. of butter, h table-spoonful
of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, a squeeze of
lemon-juice, and salt and pepper to taste ; beat the yolks
of two eggs together with 2 table-spoonfuls of milk, and
stir them quickly into the sauce. Stir it over the fire until
on the point of boiling, then move it off at once before it
quite boils. When baked, lift the lid of the paste, scrape
out the soft part with a knife, and fill it with the palate
mixture. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a folded napkin on
a hot dish, stand the vol-au-vent on it, and serve.
Ox-Pith.— The marrow taken from the spinal column.
See Amourettes.
Ox-Tails. — Kettner informs us that the Ox-tail in which
we now take a national pride was originally Huguenot,
and we learned the taste for it from the poor Protestant
refugees who settled about Bermondsey. In this region
of the tanners there is or was a place known as the
Borgeney — Petty Burgundy. The Huguenots, when they
saw Ox-hides abounding about them, thought they could
make something of the tails, which were then sold with
the hides. They make an excellent soup. A philanthropist
who happened to be a lover of good cheer was in the habit
of visiting the homes of the poor Frenchmen here at
Spitalfields, and Petty Burgundy. In Petty Burgmidy
he came upon the Ox-tail soup, which opened his eyes ;
and he then made such a proclamation of the goodness
of it, that it became in course of time a fashionable
dish.
Boiled Ox-Tails. — Cut two dozen small onions into a sauce-
pan with 3 pints of water, and boil them for about twenty
minutes. Cut two Ox-tails into pieces, put them in a
saucepan with a large lump of butter and a large onion, and
brown them ; then pour in the water from the boiled onions,
adding more water if required to cover them. Add to the
pan two or three carrots cut in pieces and an equal
quantity of turnips cut in the same way, putting in the
carrots about twenty minutes before the turnips. Stew
slowly, and when the tails and vegetables are cooked take
them out and keep hot on a dish. Put loz. of butter in
another pan, melt it, stir in as much flour as will make
it quite stiff, pour in the strained gravy from the tails,
adding a little at a time, and stir well until it boils.
Place the pieces of tails in the centre of the dish, arrange
the vegetables round them, pour over the sauce, and serve
with the boiled onions round the dish for garnish.
Braised Ox-Tail with. Chestnut Puree. — Cut the thickest
part of a fresh Ox-tail into pieces about 3m. long, soak
them in water for a few hours, then blanch them. Put
some layers of fat bacon and some sliced carrots and
onions in an oblong stewpan, add a bunch of sweet herbs,
and put in the slices of tail. Dust in a small quantity of
salt, cover them with white wine and broth mixed in equal
quantities, and put on the top some slices of fat bacon or
some pork rind. When boiling, move the pan to the side
of the fire, put some live embers on the lid, and braise
the contents for five or six hours, adding more broth to
keep up the quantity. When cooked, drain the pieces of
tail, and keep them hot. Mix 1 teacupful of gravy
with the cooking-stock, boil it up, then strain it through
a fine hair sieve ; return it to the pan, skim off the fat,
and boil it quickly till somewhat reduced. Have ready a
chestnut puree in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the
pieces of tail in a circle, pour the gravy round them, and
serve.
Broiled Ox-Tails. — (1) Wash the tails thoroughly and cut
the thick parts into joints ; put them in a stewpan with a
bunch of sweet herbs, a small quantity of salt and cayenne
pepper, and cover with common stock. When the liquor |
Ox-Tails — continued.
comes to the boil, move the stewpan to the edge of the
fire, and keep it simmering gently for two-hours-and-a-half.
Afterwards take them out and drain them well on a
sieve, brash them over with a paste-brush dipped hi beaten
yolk of egg, and cover thickly with finely-grated breadcrumbs.
Fig. 81. Broiled Ox-Tails.
Put them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear brisk fire,
turning them constantly. When ready, lay them on a hot
dish, garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 81), and serve
with a sauceboatful of tartar sauce.
(2) Take some sections of Ox-tails that have been
stewed, dust them over with salt and pepper, dip them
into warmed butter and then into breadcrumbs, then
butter again, and lastly breadcrumbs. Put them on a
gridiron over a clear fire and broil until browned. Place
them on a dish, pour over some piquant or Italian sauce,
and serve. They may also be dished up on a puree of
green peas, or on some boiled red cabbage.
Curried Ox-Tail. — Separate an Ox-tail at the joints and
put it into a saucepan with 3 pints of vrater, a thin slice
of bacon or ham, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Place the pan
at the side of the fire, and simmer gently for four hours ;
take out the pieces of tail, and pass the liquor through a
sieve into a basin. Put an onion and a couple of sour
apples, both cut in pieces, into a saucepan with loz. of
butter, and fry them until quite brown, stirring continually.
Mix in 1 table-spoonful of curry powder, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, salt and pepper to taste, and 1 pint of the liquor
that the tail was cooked in ; remove the pan to the side
of the fire, stir frequently, and cook for twenty minutes
longer. Lay in the pieces of tail, warm them up, remove
the pan from the fire, squeeze over a little lemon-juice,
turn the curry out on to a dish, and serve very hot.
Pried Ox-Tail. — (1) Disjoint an Ox-tail, cut it into pieces
2in. long, and blanch for twenty minutes ; then egg-aml-
breadcrumb them, then fry hr hot fat to a light brown colour,
and serve with tomato sauce.
(2) Dip some sections of stewed Ox-tail into breadcrumbs,
plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and fry to a
light brown. Arrange them on a dish, pour over a little
tomato sauce, and serve. This is an easy method of warm-
ing up pieces of tail that have been left over from a pre-
vious dish.
(3) Put three Ox-tails cut into pieces 4in. in length
into a saucepan with lqt. of stock and a bunch of sweet
herbs, place the pan at the side of the fire, and simmer
gently for three hours or so until tender. Take them out,
let them get quite cold, then dip into well-beaten egg and
next into breadcrumbs, plunge them into a frying-pan of
boiling fat, and fry to a light brown. Pour a little tartar
sauce over a dish, put the pieces of tails on it, and serve
with a garnish of fried parsley.
Haricot of Ox-Tails. — Put 3 breakfast-cupfuls of butter
into a saucepan, and when it has melted add three Ox-tails
divided into natural sections and two onions chopped
small ; cook until the onions are light brown. Put in 2
table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir for two minutes longer;
pour in 3 pints of water, and when it boils skim carefully,
removing the pan to the side of the fire. Let it simmer
for an hour, and add two carrots and two turnips cut into
rather large pieces ; when they have been cooking for
an hour, add some potatoes cut into slices or squares, and
salt and pepper to taste. They will require twenty minutes,
cooking, and by that time all the ingredients should be
thoroughly done. Take out the vegetables, pile them in the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
64
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox- Tails — continued.
centre of a dish, place the pieces of tails round, pour the
gravy over, and serve hot.
Ox-Tail Soup. — (1) Cut the tail into joints, wash the pieces,
and fry them in a small quantity of butter ; next drain
the pieces of tail, put them in a stewpan with a ham-
hone, two or three carrots and onions peeled and sliced,
a head of celery washed and cut into convenient-sized
pieces, a hunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a
few cloves and peppercorns. Cover the contents of the
stewpan with water, place it over the lire, and boil and
skim until the scum ceases to rise. Then move the stew-
pan to the edge of the fire, put the lid on, and let the contents
boil very gently until the tail is quite tender. When
ready, cut the meat into small pieces ; strain and skim the
soup, return it to the stewpan, thicken it with flour, and
mix with it 1 wineglassful of port wine and 2 table-
spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Put in the pieces of
meat again, and let the soup simmer at the side of the
fire for a few minutes longer. Turn the soup into a soup-
tureen, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons
of fried bread.
(2) Cut the Ox-tails into small pieces, and steep them
in cold water for several hours. Next drain them, and
put them into a, saucepan with 3qts. of rich brown stock.
Poil the soup gently for about two hours, then put in 3
heaped breakfast-cupfuls of vegetables, composed of carrots,
turnips, and onions all cut into small squares. Keep the
soup simmering at the side of the fire until the vege-
tables are tender. Pour the soup into a tureen, and
serve.
(3) Put an Ox-tail divided in natural sections into a
basin of water, and let it remain for an hour or so. Blanch
the sections, drain them, put them in a saucepan, with a
layer of minced vegetables and a bunch of sweet herbs
at the bottom, and pour over 2 wineglassfuls of white
wine. Place the pan on the fire, reduce the liquor, then
pour in some broth; cover the pan, put hot ashes on the
lid, and braise for from four to five hours. Take the pieces
of tail out, drain them in a colander, trim them, and put
them in another smaller saucepan to keep hot. Add more
broth to the liquor, boil it up on a quick fire, strain
through a fine sieve, remove the fat, and pour it into a
saucepan containing Jgall. of boiling jelly-broth. Put 3 or
4 table-spoonfuls of pearl barley into a saucepan with a
little of the broth, add it when boiled to the soup, together
with a few sliced vegetables also boiled in broth: Boil the
soup again for a few minutes, pour it into a soup-tureen, and
serve with the pieces of tail on a separate dish.
(4) Disjoint a couple of Ox-tails and put them into a
saucepan, with Hoz. of butter, a head of celery, and two
each of onions, turnips, and carrots, all cut up into small
pieces; add 4oz. of ham cut into thin slices, five cloves, a
large bunch of sweet herbs, and lastly 1 breakfast-cupful
of water. Put the pan on the fire, and stir well until there
is a thick glaze in the pan and the flavour from the herbs
is extracted. Add 3qts. more water, remove the pan to
the side of the fire, and simmer gently for from three-hours-
and-a-half to four hours, or until the tails are quite cooked
and tender, skimming frequently. Take out the pieces of
tails, put them on a dish to keep warm, strain the soup
into another saucepan, and add a thickening of flour,
1 wineglassful of port wine! the same quantity of ketchup,
and a small head of celery boiled and cut into pieces.
Return the pieces of tails to the .soup, boil for a few
minutes longer, pour it into a soup-tureen, and serve.
(5) Separate two Ox-tails into sections, wash them
thoroughly, and turn them into a basin of water for an
hour to extract the blood. Put them into a large jar
with a large onion stuck with three or four cloves, a
bunch of sweet herbs, 6 table-spoonfuls of browning, 2
table-spoonfuls of salt, and 1 teaspoonful of pepper. Pour
over these 3qts. of water, place the lid on the jar, secur-
ing it tightly, put it in a warm oven, and cook for about
three hours. Remove all the fat, take out the pieces of
tails, and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Have ready
a small head of celery boiled and cut into pieces, put the
pieces of tails hi a soup-tureen, add the celery to the soup,
warm it up, pour it into the tureen, and serve.
Ox-Tails — continued.
Stewed Ox-Tail. — (1) Divide an Ox-tail into natural sections,
blanch them for twenty minutes, and then put them into a
basin of water and let them soak for an hour. Take
them out, drain them, put them into a saucepan with 5
pints of vegetable broth, and place the pan on the fire ; when
the liquor boils, skim it, and add Jib. of sliced onions and
lib. of carrots turned into cork shapes, two faggots, three
or four cloves, and sufficient salt and pepper to taste.
Remove the pan to the side of the lire, and simmer gently
for from three to four hours, until the tail is cooked. Pour
the contents of the saucepan into a colander to drain into
another saucepan, take out the pieces of tail, wipe them
dry on a cloth, and put them into a Jgall. saucepan.
Take the carrots out of the colander, and put them also
into another saucepan. Skim off the fat from the liquor,
reduce it to half its original quantity, and pour half of it
into the saucepan with the carrots and the remainder into
the saucepan with the pieces of tail. Warm both the
carrots and pieces of tail, arrange the latter on a dish,
garnish with the former and ten or twelve glazed onions,
pour the gravy over all, and serve.
(2) Cut a fresh tail into joints, and steep them in water till
all the blood is washed out ; blanch them in boiling water,
drain, and leave till cool. Line the bottom of a stewpan
with some slices of bacon, put in the tail, also a few
carrots and onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs; pour in
a small quantity of broth, put the lid on, and stew slowly
at the side of the fire, with hot ashes on the lid. Peel
and blanch some turnips, cut them to a nice shape, put
them in a saucepan with some Spanish sauce, season with
salt and sugar, and stew gently till tender. When the
tail is cooked, drain it well, put it on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over, anil serve.
Ox-Tongues. — The most valuable part of what is
termed offal supplied by the Ox is the tongue. So great
is the demand for these that large quantities are imported
already pickled, and sometimes cured by smoking, from
Mexico, Canada, Australia, and other parts of the world
where beef is plentiful; but although the demand for these
may be ever so great, they do not in any way come up to
those which are pickled and cured in England.
Ox-tongues may be served either hot or cold ; when
served hot it is the custom of cooks to dish the tongue on
a bed of rice, or pack it on either side with vegetables to
keep it steady whilst being carved; but a Mr. Labaube, for
some years chef to the Marquis of Salisbury, has invented
what be styles the Cavendish Ox-tongue Holder. It is
described as consisting of a plated metal frame, bottomless
and flexible. After the root has been trimmed off' square,
the tongue is placed in the holder, and two skewers are
Fig. 82. Tiie Cavendish Ox-Tongue Holder (Temple and Crook).
piassed through it, one lengthwise, the other from side to
side, as shown in Fig. 82. A fly-nut screws on to the end
of the lateral skewer, and serves to bring the sides of the
holder closer together, so that it grips the tongue firmly.
Thus secured, the latter can be carved with convenience
and comfort ; paper frills are not required, and the dish, as
a whole, has 'a more presentable appearance. The holder
adapts itself to tongues of various sizes, and constitutes a
noticeable addition to the ornaments of the table.
It has been stated that horse-tongues are frequently
substituted for Ox-tongues, but we have no reason to
credit this, or to believe that any others beyond those taken
from the Ox, cow, or neat are ever sold in our markets
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, fauces, i be., referred to, see under their special heads.
ARTISTIC CENTRE PIECE.
The stand is moulded in fat on a plaster base The ten +• x ■
and snipe, the latter with beaks in the air and turned truffle! SUPPorted b7 and carries a wreath of larks
I
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
65
Ox-Tongues — continued.
The tongue of the horse differs in so many respects
besides shape from the tongues we are describing that
it would be readily detected. The following receipts,
contributed from various authentic sources, provide a great
number of different modes of treating the tongue :
Baked Ox-Tongue. — (1) Place the tongue in a deep earthen-
ware pie-dish, put 3oz. of butter in slices on the top, and
cover it completely with a flour-and-water paste, allowing the
edges of the paste to hang over the sides of the dish.
Bake it in a moderate oven, judging the time of cooking
by the size of the tongue. When cooked, remove the
paste, skin the tongue, stretch it out on a board, screw it
down at the root and tip, and leave it like that until quite
cold. When ready, unscrew the tongue, brush it over
with a paste-brush dipped in liquid glaze, and fix' a frill
of paper round it. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a table-
napkin over a dish, put the tongue on it, garnish with
cold young vegetables, and serve.
(2) Put the tongue the night before it is cooked into a
bowl with sufficient lukewarm water to cover it and let
it soak all night. On the following morning, trim it
neatly and scrape it. Stick eighteen or twenty cloves all
over the tongue, and boil it until about half cooked,
judging the time according to the size of the tongue.
Afterwards drain it, brush it over with a paste-brush
dipped in beaten yolks of eggs, and strew over plenty of
finely-grated breadcrumbs. Put it in a baking-dish and
bake until nicely browned, basting it constantly with
butter. When cooked, place the tongue on a hot dish,
pour round it some rich brown gravy in which has been
mixed 1 wineglassful of wine, and serve with red-currant
jelly.
(3) Cut off the root and superfluous fat from a very
fresh Ox-Tongue, braise it, and when cold cut it into
thick slices. Put the crumb of a household loaf into
a mortar with one anchovy, a little butter, chopped parsley ,
a few shallots, tarragon-leaves, capers, and chives, and pound
them well together. Put half of this mixture in a baking-
pan or dish, arrange the slices of tongue on the top, cover
it over with the rest of the mixture, pour over a little stock
and warmed butter, put the pan (or dish) in a moderate oven,
and bake. When done and a light brown take it out of
the oven, put the dish or pan it was cooked in on another
dish, and serve.
Boiled Ox-Tongue. — Put a fresh tongue into a saucepan of
water with 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, and boil for three or
four hours : take it out, plunge it into cold water for two
or three minutes, take out, drain, take off the skin, put
it on a dish, and serve either hot or cold.
Boiled Ox-Tongue served with Chestnuts. — Place a pickled
Ox-Tongue into a bowl of water and soak it, then put it
into a saucepan with water to cover and boil for two hours ;
take it out, drain it, and remove the skin. Cover the
bottom of a saucepan with vegetables cut in slices and a
few sweet herbs, place the tongue on topi, and pour in
sufficient broth and white wine to moisten to half its
height. Cover with paper, set the saucepan on the fire, and
cook gently until—the tongue is tender, turning occasionally
so as to glaze it on both sides. Have ready a puree of
chestnuts, moderately thick, spread it over a dish, and place
the tongue on it ; add a little more broth to the liquor in
the saucepan, boil well, skim and strain into another sauce-
pan, reduce it to half-glaze, pour it over the tongue, and
serve.
Boiled Ox-Tongue with Prunes. Put a fresh Ox-Tongue
into a saucepan of salted water and boil until the skin
can easily be removed. Skin it, put it into a saucepan
with sufficient water to cover, and add lib. each of prunes
and stoned raisins, 4oz. of sugar, and spice to taste ; set the
saucepan on the fire, and boil well until the whole is done.
Put the tongue on a dish, pour over the remainder, and
serve.
Boiled Ox-Tongue served on a Puree of Sorrel.— Cut
on the root of a fresh Ox-Tongue, wash it well, put it
into a saucepan of lukewarm water, place it on the fire,
and bring the contents gently to the boil. Take the
Ox-Tongues — continued.
tongue out, drain, put it into another saucepan with a
few vegetables and a bunch of sweet herbs, cover with
cold water, and boil for two hours. Take it out, skin,
put it into another saucepan lined with vegetables cut in
slices, pour over gravy and white wine in equal parts to
half its height, cover the pan, put it on the fire, and boil
slowly until the liquor is reduced to one half its original
quantity. Remove the pan to the side of the fire and
cook very gently until the tongue is tender and the liquor
reduced to a glaze. The tongue must be turned, so as to
glaze it well all over. Cover a dish with a puree of
sorrel, place the tongue on it, add a little gravy to the
liquor, and boil up at once ; skim the liquor, strain it into
another saucepan, reduce it to half-glaze, pour it over the
tongue and serve.
Boiled Pickled Ox-Tongue with Chestnut Puree. — Put a
pickled Ox-Tongue into a saucepan with sufficient water
to cover, and ^boil for two hours. Take it out, drain,
remove the skin, put it into another saucepan with a few
vegetables cut in slices, a bunch of sweet herbs, sufficient
broth to moisten it to half its height, and a little white
wine. Cover the tongue with a piece of paper, place the
pan on the fire, and finish cooking the tongue, turning
it over frequently. When done and well glazed put it
on a dish on a puree of cooked chestnuts, add a little
more broth to the liquor, boil it, skim off all the fat,
strain it into another saucepan, reduce to half-glaze,
pour it over the tongue, and serve.
Boiled Pickled Ox-Tongue with Red Sauce. — Put an Ox-
Tongue into brine and let it remain for fourteen days or
so. When wanted for use, take it out, drain, and put it
into a basin of water for three hours. Take it out, drain
again, put it into a saucepan with sufficient water to
cover, set the pan on the fire, and as soon as the contents
commence to boil remove the pan to the side of the fire
and simmer for three hours. Remove the pan from the
fire, let the tongue remain in the liquor for thirty minutes,
take it out, drain it, trim, and take off the skin. Put it
on a dish, and pour over some sauce made as follows : Put
1 breakfast-cupful of vinegar into a saucepan with a few
cloves and peppercorns, a bay-leaf, a little thyme and
parsley, and reduce it quickly to half its original bulk ;
then add 2 breakfast-cupfuls of gravy, boil again, and
thicken with some potato-flour mixed to a paste with
water. Let it remain for five minutes, strain it through a
fine sieve into another saucepan, and stir in 2 table-
spoonfuls of red-currant jelly and 1 teacupful each of well-
washed currants and sultana raisins. Boil for five or six
minutes, and it is ready for use.
Boiled Smoked Ox-Tongue.— Put a smoked Ox-Tongue
into water, and let it soak for a couple of days ; then put
it into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover, and boil
for three hours. Take it out, drain, skin it, put it on
a dish with a garnish of gherkins and green pickled
peppers, and serve.
Braised Ox-Tongue. — (1) Soak an Ox-Tongue in warm water
until all the blood is extracted and the water quite cold.
Take it out, drain, trim off the superfluous fat, and lard
the meat with fat bacon. Put it into a braising-pan with
a few cloves, carrots, and onions, a little thyme and parsley,
two slices of fat bacon or pork, sufficient stock to moisten
it, and salt and pepper to taste. Set the pan at the side
of the fire, cover it, place hot ashes on the top, and cook
slowly for about four hours. Take out the tongue when
done, remove the skin, cut it lengthwise into halves, lay
them ojien on a dish, pour some tomato or piquant sauce
over and serve.
(2) Well wash a fresh Ox-Tongue, pass a needle with
twine through the tip and root, tie it securely, and bind
round with string. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient
boiling water to cover, boil gently for two hours, then take
it out and diain. Welt 6 table-spoonfuls of butter in a
braising-pan, and when quite hot add two onions and
half a small carrot and turnip, all finely chopped. Stir
veil over the fire for five minutes, remove the pan to the
side, cover the tongue with flour, put it in the pan, and
brown it first on one side and then on the other. Put
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£•<:., referred to, see under their special heads.
F
Gfi
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Os-Tongues — continued.
lqt. of water into a saucepan with a clove, a bunch of
sweet herbs, a small piece of cinnamon, and a little each
of salt and pepper. Boil well for a few minutes to extract
the flavour, strain the liquor into the pan with the tongue,
cover with the lid, put it in the oven, and cook slowly for
two hours, basting frequently with the liquor, and sprinkling
in a little flour, salt, and pepper. About half-armour
before the tongue is done, the juice of a lemon should be
added to the gravy. Take out the tongue when done, put
it on a dish, pour over 2 table-spoonfuls of melted glaze,
and keep it warm. Boil the liquor, and stir in 1 table-
spoonful of cornflour mixed up with a little cold water ;
boil for a minute longer, pour it through a sieve round
the tongue, and serve with sprigs of parsley for garnish.
Braised Ox Tongue in Sauce Hachee. — Steep a fresh Ox-
Tongue in water till the blood is drawn out, then blanch
it. Place it in a stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a bunch
of parsley and thyme, a bay-leaf, and one or two cloves ;
put in two or three slices of fat bacon, a ladleful of broth,
and braise it. When cooked, skin the tongue, and cut it
into halves. Prepare a sauce hachee with some chopped
gherkins, mushrooms, capers, and anchovies, and mix them
in some brown Italian sauce ; or, in place of the Italian
sauce, put loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour in
a small saucepan, stir it over the fire till brown, then pom-
in a small quantity of broth or gravy, and add the chopped
herbs. Spread the tongue out on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over it, and serve.
Broiled Slices of Ox-Tongue in Cases. — Cut up into thick
slices a braised Ox-Tongue, cover them with thin slices of
bacon, sprinkle over a few minced sweet herbs, and wrap
the whole round with pieces of greased paper, folding
them in such a manner that the liquor cannot ran out.
Put them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil. When
done, place them on a dish, and serve.
Cold Ox-Tongue. — Boil a tongue for three hours ; when
cooked, skin it, trim off the rough parts of the root,
and truss it a good shape by placing the root against
some fixture and running a fork through the thin end
into the table or board. When cold, finish trimming the
tongue. Put the tongue on a dish, fix a frilled paper
round the root with skewers, wet it with a little hot
jelly, and garnish with parsley and chopped aspic. An imi-
tation scallop shell may be carved on the tongue, commencing
at the thin end and ending at the thick. Glaze it well
with light glaze, spread a thick layer of aspic jelly over
the tongue, and garnish it on the dish with attelettes
of jelly and mushrooms. See Fig. 83.
Pried Fillets of Ox-Tongue. — Cut off eight fillets from a
cold boiled Ox-Tongue, having them 4m. long, 2in. wide,
and Jin. thick ; dip them in hot butter, and cover with
flour. Put 2 table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan,
make it hot, place in the fillets, and brown them on both
sides, taking care not to burn them. Take them out, and put
them on a dish over thin strips of toast ; add another
table-spoonful of butter to the pan, stir in a little more
than 1 teaspoonful of flour, and when this is brown
add 1 table-spoonful of lemon-juice or half the quantity
of vinegar, J teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and
Ox-Tongues— continued.
1 breakfast-cupful of rich stock. Boil up once more, pour
the sauce round the tongue, and serve with a garnish of
parsley.
Minced Ox-Tongue.— Cut any cold cooked Ox-Tongue
into oblong-shaped pieces, cut them again transversely into
slices, and put them in a saucepan with a few slices of
uncooked truffle. Cut an onion and three small Jerusalem
artichokes into slices and again into quarters, place them
in a frying-pan with a little oil, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and fry over a moderate fire until done. Add 1
table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, cook for a minute or
so, and then add the pieces of tongue and truffles. Cook
for three or four minutes longer, remove the pan from the
fire, and pour in the juice of two lemons. Turn the mince
out on to a dish, garnish with pieces of bread fried in
butter, and serve.
Ox-Tongues a la Financiere. — Blanch a couple of fresh Ox-
Tongues, put them into a saucepan lined with vegetables
cut in slices and a few small pieces of bacon, moisten with
a little broth, cover the tongues with paper, put the sauce-
pan on the fire with hot ashes on the lid, and cook until
the tongues are done and quite tender. Take them out,
drain them, trim the thick or root ends, making them as
round as possible, and with a sharp knife cut the tongues
transversely to half their length and remove the top pieces.
Cut these into slices, and put them back in their places.
Put a flat crouton of fried bread in the centre of a dish,
mask it with forcemeat poached in the oven, glaze the
tongues, and put them on it, with their root ends meeting
in the centre ; surround the base with a ragout a la fin-
aneiere, and garnish with quenelles, made with a spoon, and
some larger ones studded with truffles. Serve with a sauce-
boatful of brown sauce reduced with wine. Should salted
tongues be used they will only require to be boiled with
plenty of water until they are tender, and then treated as
above.
Ox-Tongue a la Gourmet. — Boil an Ox-Tongue in plenty of
water for three hours. When cooked, drain it, peel the
skin oft', and trim it nicely. Lard and braise four sweet-
breads. Take the fillets of two or three chickens,
trim them nicely, put them in a buttered saute-pan, and
saut6 them. Peel sufficient potatoes that will, when mashed,
fill a border mould, boil till tender, then drain, and mesh
them with a little butter; press them in a border mould,
and set in a bain-marie for a few minutes. When the
fillets of chicken are cooked, take them out of the pan,
and keep them hot. Pour 1 h pints of white sauce and
J pint of veal stock into a saucepan, and boil till rather
thickly reduced, stirring all the time; then mix 1 teacupful
of cream with it, and season with a small quantity of moist
sugar. Glaze the tongue and sweetbreads. Turn the potato
border on to a hot dish, put the tongue in the centre, put
two of the sweetbreads at each end, the fillets of chicken
at each side, pour the sauce over them, straining it through
a fine hah' sieve, and serve without delay.
Ox-Tongue au Gratin. — Moisten about 4oz. of crumb of
bread with a little clear gravy; when the bread is soft,
put it in a mortar with 2oz. of butter, a moderate quantity
each of finely-chopped lemon-thyme, tarragon-leaves, and
parsley, a few capers, and two boned, washed, and chopped
anchovies, and pound until quite smooth. Cut some cold,
cooked Ox-Tongue into neat slices, put a layer of the
forcemeat in a dish that will stand the heat of the oven
and can be served at table, then arrange the pieces of
tongue on the top and cover them with another layer of
the stuffing. Put a few small slices of butter on the top,
and place the dish in a quick oven. In about a-quarter-of-
an-hour’s time take the dish out of the oven, and if not
sufficiently coloured on the top brown it under a sala-
mander. Serve while hot.
Ox-Tongue a, la Terrapin. — Put a salted Ox-Tongue into a
saucepan of water and boil it until quite tender ; take it
out, strain, and cut it lengthwise . in halves. Stick a
few cloves in them, put them into another saucepan with
sufficient water to cover, add an onion cut in slices,
a little mace, and browned flour, boil for a few minutes ; and
put in three finely-chopped hard-boiled eggs, remove the pan
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils'', Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
(57
Os-Tongues — continued.
from the fire, pour in 1 wineglassful of wine, turn the
whole out on to a dish, and serve very hot, with a garnish
of hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. See Fig. 84.
Ox-Tongue in Aspic Jelly. — (1 ) Trim off the roots of a
skinned cold boiled tongue, either fresh or salted. Pack a
igall mould in ice, pour in a little warmed aspic jelly
to cover the bottom to about lin. in depth, let it set,
garnish with beetroot cut in various shapes, pour over
a little more aspic to set them, place the tongue up-
side down on the top, pour over 1 teacupful more of the jelly
to fix the tongue in its place, then fill up the mould
with jelly, and let it remain until set and quite firm. Turn
it out on to a dish, garnish with parsley and pickles, and
serve. Pickled beetroot if possible should be used.
(2) Put an Ox-Tongue in a saucepan with sufficient cold
water to cover it ; place it over the fire until boiling, then
skim the liquor, stand the saucepan at the edge of the
fire, and stew the tongue until tender. When the tongue
is cooked, drain, skin, curl it round, and place it in a
large mould. Put loz. of soaked gelatine into a saucepan
with 1 qt. of stock, and about one dozen peppercorns ;
stir them over the fire until boiling and the gelatine has
dissolved, then strain the liquor through a jelly-bag over
the tongue in the mould, leave it until quite cold and
firm, then turn the tongue and jelly out of the mould on
to a dish over which has been spread a lace-edged dish-
paper or a folded napkin, garnish with a few sprigs of
parsley, and serve.
Ox-Tongue Patties. — Prepare a forcemeat of truffles, grated
Hamburg beef, breadcrumbs, and a plentiful seasoning of
spices, and bind it with beaten egg. Cut an Ox-Tongue
into thin slices, put a little of the forcemeat on each, and
roll them up, fastening them with skewers. Brush the
rolls over with a paste-brusli dipped in beaten egg, and
roll them in breadcrumbs ; put them in a frying-pan with
butter or clarified fat, and fry them until nicely browned.
Make some flaky paste, roll it out thinly, and cut it into
pieces 24in. long. Remove the skewers from the rolls of
fried tongue, and lay one on each piece of paste ; roll
them up, moistening the paste at the ends and pinching
them together ; brush them over with beaten egg, roll
them in breadcrumbs, and fry again. When the paste is
cooked and of a golden colour, drain the rolls on a sheet
of kitchen-paper for a minute or two, place them on a
dish over which should have been spread a folded napkin
or a fancy-edged dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve.
Ox-Tongue Toast. — Mince the required quantity of cold
boiled Ox-Tongue, put it into a saucepan, mix in a little
cream or milk, boil up, and add the well-beaten yolks
of eggs to thicken. Have ready several rounds of toast,
butter them, mask them with the tongue preparation, and
serve very hot
Pickled Ox-Tongue. — (1) Rub the tongue well with salt and
let it drain for three days. Put into a saucepan a pickle
composed of lib. of salt, |oz. each of salprunella and
saltpetre, ilb. of coarse moist sugar, ten juniper berries,
three or four bay-leaves, 1 table-spoonful of strong vinegar,
and 6 breakfast-cupfuls of water. Set the saucepan on the
fire, boil for thirty minutes, turn the whole into a bowl or
dish, and let it get cold. Place the tongue in it, and
let it remain for three weeks or a month, turning it
daily. Should it be required for immediate use three
weeks will be long enough, but if allowed to remain
Ox-Ton gues — contin ut d.
a month in the pickle it will require to be hung for a
few days before using.
(2) Put a tongue into a basin, dredge it with salt, and
let it remain for two days. Remove the salt and any
slime there may be on the tongue, and rub it well with
a mixture composed of lib. of saltpetre and 1 table-spoonful
of coarse moist sugar. Let it remain in this for seven
weeks, turning and covering it well daily ; take it out,
rub it dry, and hang up in a dry place for five or six
days a.ul it will be ready for use. If desired, the tongue
need only be left in the pickle for from three to five
weeks, and can be used at once without being hung up
to dry.
(3) Rub a tongue well with salt and let it remain for
five hours in a basin ; pour ort' the liquor, and rub the
tongue well with 2oz. of saltpetre, afterwards rub it with
a mixture of loz. of salprunella and 4oz. of coarse brown
sugar. Place it back in the basin and let it remain for
four days. Put lgall. of water into a saucepan with
sufficient salt to make a brine capable of supporting an
egg, and add i-lb. of moist sugar, 4oz. of bay-salt, and 2oz.
of saltpetre. Boil well for fifteen minutes, removing all
the scum as it rises, pour it into a bowl, and let it get
cold. Put in the tongue, turn it every day for a fort-
night, take it out, and smoke it. It is then ready for use.
Potted Ox-Tongue. — (1) Put a pickled tongue intoa saucepan
of water and boil it for three hours or until tender ; plunge
it into cold water for a few minutes, take it out, and
skin it. C hop it up small and pound in a mortar to a
paste. Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls of butter into a saucepan,
and melt it; add 1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spices,
having half mace and the remainder nutmeg, cloves, and
cayenne in equal proportions, to the tongue and a little
salt if required, and lastly the clear part of the melted
butter. Pound and mix thoroughly, press the mixture into
jars, pour over more melted butter, cover the jars, and
keep them in a dry place until wanted.
(2) Rub a neat’s tongue well over with loz. of saltpetre
mixed with £lb. of sugar, and let it remain for a couple of
days. Put it into a saucepan of water, boil until it is
quite tender, remove the skin and side bits, and cut it
into very thin slices. Put the slices in a mortar and
pound them, adding lib. of clarified butter, a little powdered
mace, and salt and pepper to taste. When the mass is as
fine as possible, put it into small pots, pour over some hob
clarified butter, and the mixture is ready for use.
(3) Take off all the skin and gristle as well as any dis-
coloured parts from lib. of cold boiled tongue, chop it up,
and pound it in a mortar. Season well with cayenne,
ground mace, and allspice, and work in either 2oz. of
butter, or 4oz. of the fat from the tongue. Squeeze the
mixture into small jars or pots, cover them with clarified
flutter, or beef-suet, put them in a cool place, and let them
remain until wanted. A little made mustard may also be
added to the paste.
Pressed Ox-Tongue. — Prepare a pickle with lib. of salt,
4oz. of coarse moist sugar, and |oz. each of saltpetre and
salprunella-; rub an Ox-Tongue well with it daily for
about three weeks. Put it into a saucepan of water, boil
up, change the water, and boil for four hours. Place the
tongue in a collaring-tin or mould, put a weight on the
top, and let it get cold. Turn it out on to a dish,
surround it with a paper band, and serve. It may be
glazed if desired.
Roasted Ox-Tongue. — (1) Put an Ox-Tongue into a basin
of warm water and let it remain for twelve hours or so
to extract all the blood. Cut off the root and superfluous
fat, scrape it, stud it with cloves, put it into a saucepan
of water, and boil for two hours or more according to
the size. Take it out, drain, mask it with beaten yolk
of egg, roll it in breadcrumbs, pass a skewer through
lengthwise, and roast before a clear fire, basting frequently
with butter. When done, put it on a dish, pour over a
little gravy mixed with white, wine, and serve.
(2) Soak a tongue for twelve hours in a basin of water,
take it out, drain, lard it with strips of bacon, and
rub well over with salt. Tie pieces of buttered paper
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£-c., referred to, see under their special heads
68
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ox-Tongues — continued.
round it, push a skewer through it lengthwise, and roast
in front of a clear lire for a couple of hours. When
nearly done, remove the paper in order to brown the
tongue, roast for twenty or twenty-five minutes longer,
put it on a dish, and serve with a little red-currant jelly.
(3) Take a neat’s tongue, boil it, blanch, and put it
away till quite cold. When the tongue has cooled, cut a
hole in the under-part and scoop out the meat, mince this
fine with two, or, if the tongue is large, three hard-boiled
eggs, a good-sized apple, a small quantity of , beef -suet,
and a little bacon ; season with a little powdered ginger
and finely-powdered dried herbs and 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Mix all these very thoroughly and then stuff the tongue
with the mixture. Wrap the end of the tongue in a veal-
caul, lard it with fat bacon, and roast. Garnish with sliced
lemon and barberries, and serve with sauce made of
butter, gravy, and orange-juice.
Scalloped Ox-Tongue. — Chop up sufficient cold cooked tongue
to fill 2 breakfast-cups, and mix in 1 teaspoonful each of
capers, chopped parsley, and salt, a little pepper, and 1
table-spoonful of onion-juice mixed up in 1 teacupful of
stock. Sprinkle sifted breadcrumbs, over a well-buttered
scallop-dish, put in the tongue preparation, cover with
more breadcrumbs, making the total quantity used, 1
breakfast-cupful, and put so e small pieces of butter here
and there over the top. Place the dish in the oven, bake
for twenty minutes, take it out, and serve at once.
Stewed Larded Ox-Tongue. — (1) Put an Ox-Tongue into a
saucepan of salted water, boil it for an-hour and-a-half, take
it out, drain it, peel off the skin, and lard with bacon
and raw ham. Put some vegetables cut in slices, and
trimmings of bacon into a saucepan, place a few pieces of
veal on the top, and the tongue on the top of the veal.
Pour over a little broth, place the lid on the pan, put it
on the fire, and reduce the liquor to a glaze. Pour in more
broth with a little white wine to half the height of the
tongue, cover it with a piece of paper, and complete the
cooking, turning it frequently. Take the tongue out,
glaze it, pour over some Italian sauce, and serve.
(2) Put an Ox-Tongue in a saucepan of salted water, boil
for an-hour-and-a-half, take it out, and skin it. Cover the
bottom of a saucepan with a layer of vegetables cut in
slices and intermixed with trimmings of bacon, cover with
trimmings of veal, lard the tongue with fillets of bacon
and raw ham alternately, place it in the saucepan over
the veal, pour in a little broth to moisten, cover the sauce-
pan, put it on the fire, and cook the contents until the
liquor is reduced to glaze. Pour in broth and white wine
to half the height of the tongue, cover with a piece of
greased paper, and cook until the tongue is quite tender,
turning it over once or twice. Take it out when done,
drain it, put it on a dish in the oven to glaze, pour over
Italian sauce, and serve.
Stewed Ox-Tongue. — Cut the root off a tongue but do not
take all the fat off. Salt the tongue for a week with
common salt and a little saltpetre, turning it every day.
When it has laid in the salt for a week, boil it till the
skin can easily be taken off. When skinned stew it in a
little good gravy till sufficiently tender, seasoning with
mushroom ketchup, soy, cayenne, pounded cloves, and, if
it requires it, adding a little salt. Serve with morels,
mushrooms, or truffles.
Stewed Ox-Tongue with Parmesan Cheese. — Well wash,
trim, and blanch an Ox-Tongue, put it into a saucepan
with sufficient stock to cover, and boil until quite tender ;
then take it out, skin, and cut it up into thin slices. Put
\ pint each of stock and white wine into a saucepan, and
simmer slowly until reduced to half its original quantity.
Turn half of this liquor into a dish, grate over some Par-
mesan cheese, place the slices of tongue on the top, pour
over the remainder of the liquor, and grate over more
cheese. Put the dish in a moderate oven and bake the
tongue until done and well browned ; then take it out, and
serve.
Stewed Ox-Tongue with Raisins and Cuconari. Boil an
Ox-Tongue (or four sheeps’ tongues) in cor.sommd or any rich ,
Ox-Tongues — continued.
broth with 1 wineglassful of sherry in it. Take it out
when done, skin, cut it into slices, and prepare a sauce • as
follows : Put 1 breakfast-cupful <>,f cuconari (a very white
grain, as large as a melon-seed, having the flavour of almonds,
very much used in Greece and Turkey), or 4oz. of blanched
and chopped almonds, into a basin, and pour over boiling
water to cover; serve 1 breakfast-cupful of sultana raisins
in the same way. Put 4oz. of butter into a saucepan on
the fire, melt it, stir in the strained juice of a lemon, 1
table -spoonful of Hour, \ table-spoonful of powdered sugar,
and 1 breakfast-cupful of cream. Bring these to the boil,
add the raisins and cuconari, all of which must be well
drained and wiped on a cloth, and lastly add the slices of
tongue. Make all the ingredients hot, and serve at once.
OXALIC ACID. — An acid that is found in sorrel,
rhubarb, and other things. It is frequently but erroneously
styled salts of lemon.
OXFORD DUMPLINGS.— See Dumplings.
OXFORD JOHN.— See Mutton.
OXFORD NIGHT-CAPS— Whether these have or
have not any relation to the festivities peculiar to the
University of Oxford, or to the city of that name, or even
to the county itself, it is certain that a few excellent
receipts for spiced beverages have been collected under
the above heading. In the belief that some of them at
least are worthy of commemoration, they are hereunder
duly recorded.
Brown Betty. — Dissolve lib. of brown sugar in 1 pint of
water, slice a lemon into it, let it stand a-quarter-of-an-
hour, then add a small quantity of powdered cloves and
cinnamon, t pint of brandy, and lqt. of good strong ale;
stir all well together, put into the mixture a couple of slices
of toasted bread, grate some nutmeg and ginger on the
toast; and you have a Brown Betty. Ice it, and you will
find it excellent in the summer ; warm it, and it will be
very comforting in the winter.
Lamb’s Wool is merely a variety of the wassail bowl,
and although not common in Oxford is a great favourite
in some parts of England. The following is the origin of
the term Lamb’s Wool, as applied to this particular
beverage. Formerly the first day of November was
dedicated to the angel presiding over fruits, seeds, &c.,
and was therefore named La Mas Ubal — that is the day of
the apple fruit — and being pronounced lamasool, our
country people have corrupted it to Lamb’s Wool. Lamb’s
Wool was anciently often met with in Ireland, but is now
rarely heard of in that country, having been entirely
superseded by the more intoxicating liquor called whisky.
Mix the pulp of half-a-dozen roasted apples with some
raw sugar, a grated nutmeg, and a small quantity of ginger;
add lqt. of strong ale made moderately warm. Stir the
whole well together, and, if sweet enough, it is fit for use.
This mixture is sometimes served up in a bowl, with
sweet cakes floating in it.
Leander Punch.. — This drink was invented by Mr.
Fellows, who was for many years an active member of the
well-known Leander Boat Club, from which it takes its
name. The inventor caused the Punch to be introduced
into the university by a friend at Christ Church College.
Four glasses of whisky if possible (Irish), two of brandy,
and the juice and peel of one large lemon. Add boiling
water to make lqt., and if not enough, ad libitum. Then
boil 1 wineglassful of good old ale, and put the froth into
the punch with L table-spoonful of the ale ; sweeten to
taste, and stir. If it stands in a jug near the fire for
half-an-hour it will be improved.
Oxford Bishop, or Spiced Wine. — Bishop seems to
be one of the oldest winter beverages known, and is to this
day preferred to any other, not only by the youthful votary
of Bacchus at his evening’s revelry, but also by the grave
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TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
69
Oxford Night-Caps — continued.
Don by way of a Night-Cap, and probably derives its name
from the circumstance of ancient dignitaries of the
Chnrcli, when they honoured the university with a visit,
being regaled with spiced wine. It appears from a work
published some years since and entitled “ Oxoniana ; or,
Anecdotes of the University of Oxford,” that in the rolls
or accounts of a college of ancient foundation, a sum of
money is frequently met with charged “pro speciebus,”
that is, for spices used in their entertainments ; for in those
days, as well as at the present, spiced wine was a very
fashionable beverage.
Three cups of this a prudent man may take ;
The first of these for constitution’s sake,
The second to the girl he loves best,
The third and last to lull him to rest.
Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon, stick
cloves in the incisions, and roast the lemon by a slow fire.
Put small but equal quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace,
and allspice, into a saucepan with | pint gf water, and
let it boil until reduced one half. Boil a bottle of port
wine, burning a portion of the spirit out by applying a
lighted paper to it. Put the roasted lemon ami spice
into the wine, stir well, and let it stand near the fire for
ten minutes. Rub a few pieces of sugar on the rind of j
a lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug with the juice j
of half a lemon (not roasted), pour the vine over, grate I
some nutmeg into it, sweeten to taste, and serve with the |
lemon and spice floating in it. |
Oxford Grace Cup. — The ancient grace cup was
a vessel proportioned to the number of the company |
assembled, the guests drinking out of the same cup one !
after another. Virgil describes something like it when j
speaking of the entertainment Queen Dido gave to vEneas.
It has been the custom from time immemorial, at the
civic feasts in Oxford, for the grace cup to be inti-oduced
before the removal of the cloth, when the Mayor receives
the cup standing ; his right and left hand guests also rise
from their seats while he gives a toast, which since the
Reformation has been “ Church and King.” The cup is
then handed round the table, no one presuming to apply
his lips to it until two persons have risen from their seats.
The origin of this custom is ascribed by our antiquaries to
the practice of the Danes heretofore in England, who
frequently used to stab or cut the throats of the natives
while they were drinking, the persons standing being the
sureties that the one holding the cup should come to no
harm while partaking of it.
Extract the juice from the peel of a lemon, and cut
the remainder into thin slices; put it into a jug or bowl,
and pour over it 1 1 pints of strong home-brewed
beer and a bottle of mountain wine ; grate a nutmeg into
it, sweeten to taste, stir it till the sugar has dissolved,
and then add three or four slices of bread toasteil brown,
bet it stand for two hours, then strain it off into the grace
cup.
OXFORD PUNCH. — See Punch.
OXFORD SAUSAGES. — See Sausages.
OYSTERS (Fr. Huitres; Ger. Austern; Hal. Ostrice;
Sp. Ostras). — “Please to remember the grotto” has been
for many years regarded as the introductory signal of
the Oyster season, although as a matter of fact these
grottos refer to a pilgrimage to a certain grotto which
they are supposed to represent, the requested monetary
contribution being for the purpose of paying the expenses
of the pilgrimage. Oysters are in season eight months
of the year, the four “close” months being May, June,
July, and August: the other months having the letter r
in their spelling, accounts for the saying that Oysters are
in season when there is an r in the month.
The Oyster (Ostrea edulis) is found on almost every coast,
being specially cultivated in certain localities, and yielding
enormous crops, as it is estimated that one Oyster alone
Oysters— continued.
produces in one year from three thousand to four thousand
young. The system of cultivation has been brought to
great perfection, and the superior kinds of Oysters care-
fully preserved from the contamination of inferior sorts.
Of the varieties of Oysters, that which holds the foiemost
place in the estimation of the gourmet is the English
native. This kind has a historic reputation, for it is
recorded that when the Romans landed upon our shores
they eagerly sought for the luscious British native. The
green Qyster of Ostend is much prized by Continental
epicures ; but the British Oyster-eater has an erroneous
notion that the green colour is due to the presence of
copper, whereas it has been plainly shown by chemical
experts that the green colour is entirely due to the food
upon which it subsists.
Of the numerous kinds of Oysters sold in our markets,
it is only necessary to state that those possessing the
smallest, smoothest, and cleanest-looking shells, from the
high-class native down to the lowest type, are the best
flavoured. For serving plain no Oyster excels the British
native (see Fig. 85), but for cooking a coarser and,
cheaper kind may be used with almost as good results
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads
70
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
even though we revert to those preserved in tins. Of the
imported Oysters, the Americans are said to be the best,
but some ■cooks prefer the French, Dutch (see Fig. 86),
or Anglo-Portuguese. Those commonly known as Blue-
points (see Fig. 87), are exceedingly ugly in the shape
and character of the shell, and are proportionately wanting
in flavour.
Oysters must be kept alive, and as they are liable to
fret and waste in substance whilst in captivity, they
require frequent change of water, and occasional feeding,
or fattening, as it is called. The following is the system
usually adopted:
Take some fresh Oysters, put them into a tub of water,
wash and scrub them with a birch or heather broom till
quite clean, then lay them in an earthenware pan with the
flat shell upwards; sprinkle them with flour or oatmeal,
and cover with salted water (quite as salt as sea water),
bay-salt being the best for this purpose. Change the salted
water every day, and sprinkle the Oysters with oatmeal or
flour ; thus they will fatten.
Sometimes it is necessary to preserve Oysters for
culinary use, especially in localities where they are scarce
or the supplies insufficient. When this is the case, the
following will be found an excellent method of preparing
them so that they will keep good, although not fresh, and
be always ready for use.
Clean the Oysters thoroughly, put them into a large
saucepan with some sea water, the juice of half a lemon,
and some grated nutmeg. When the water is on the point
of boiling, move the saucepan off the fire, and leave the
Oysters in the liquor until the following day. Put the
Oysters into stone or earthenware jars, pour over some
clarified butter, and, when cold, cover and tie the jars
down. Keep them in a cool place.
Oysters — continued.
Oysters should be kept in a very cold place, and be
thoroughly washed before they are opened; they should,
according to the French custom, be opened on the deep
shell so as to preserve their liquor. It is then advisable,
if possible, to lay them on a bed of finely-chopped ice
for an hour or so before serving; this improves the flavour
greatly, but they must not be left on the ice much longer,
for after that time they will begin to lose flavour, instead
of gaining it.
To open an Oyster it should be held in the folds of
a cloth, in the palm of the hand, or in a hollow cut out
of a piece of wood (see Fig. 88); an Oyster-knife can
then be inserted between the shells with a see-saw motion,
forcing it inwards and cutting the Oyster away from
the flat shell. When the knife has done its work the
flat shell can be removed. In most cases it is usual to
remove the beards or “ fringes ” of the oysters before
using them for cooking; but that is not an absolute
necessity, although advisable. After cutting the body
loose from the deep shell, they are then ready to serve
or use as may be required.
Aspic of Oysters. — (1) Put three or four dozen large
Oysters into a stewpan with sufficient white wine, such as
sherry or vin de grave, to cover them, and let them cook
gently until firm. Drain, trim, put them into a basin, and
then season with a dust of salt and the juice of a lemon
squeezed over them. Set a mould in a box or tin of
powdered ice and pour in a thin layer of warmed jelly.
Let this set, and then lay Oysters symmetrically over it
to within Jin. of the edge all round. Pour over sufficient
aspic to cover these, allow it to set, and then repeat the
layer of Oysters until the mould is quite full, taking care
that the aspic shall cover the last layer of Oysters with-
out overflowing. Allow this to stand for an hour in the
ice, and then dip the mould into hot water, removing quickly,
and turn out on to a cold dish. Garnish round with chopped
aspic jelly (see Fig. SO), or ornament with croutons of aspic
in two or three colours of brown, red, and yellow. Serve
with a rich mayonnaise sauce.
(2) Partially boil some Oysters in their own liquor, and
beard them. Put a good-sized lump of butter in a stew-
pan with a few shallots, truffles, sweet herbs, and a small
quantity of parsley, all finely chopped, toss them for a few
minutes over the fire, then put in the Oysters, and season
to taste with salt and pepper. When sufficiently stewed,
take the Oyster mixture off the fire and leave until cold.
Coat a mould with liquid aspic jelly, leave it until set,
then fill it up with the Oysters and a few crayfish, cover
the whole with more liquid jelly, and set the mould on ice.
When set, turn the jelly on to a dish over which has been
spread a folded napkin or a fancy dish-paper, garnish with
parsley and crayfish claws, and serve. This is a very
pretty luncheon dish.
Attelettes of Oysters.— Beard some large Oysters. Take
a sweetbread, divide it into as many pieces as there are
Oysters, and let the pieces be about the same size as them.
Cut some rashers of bacon into the same number of pieces,
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
71
Oysters — continued.
but rather larger. Chop fine and mix together a little
parsley, some shallots and lemon- thyme, and add salt and
white pepper. Rub this seasoning over the Oysters and
pieces of meat, then brush over with beaten egg or dip
them in it, shaking a little more of the seasoning over
them; roll them in sifted breadcrumbs, and thread them
alternately on small silver attelettes. After skewering, dip
them again in the breadcrumbs and fry in boiling lard or
fat to a pale brown. Slip the skewers out and serve with
some rich gravy a little mushroom ketchup, and lemon
pickle.
Baked Oysters. — Butter the inside of a deep dish, and line
it with sifted breadcrumbs. Put in half of the Oysters,
sprinkle over a small quantity of white pepper, throw in a
little mace, cover with a layer of breadcrumbs, and dis-
tribute little pieces of butter all over. Lay the remainder
of the Oysters on the top, season them with mace and
■white pepper, then cover with another layer of bread-
crumbs and small pieces of butter. Pour in the liquor
if the Oysters are fresh ; if salt, pour iu a little water
instead, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve hot.
Baked Oysters in their Shells. — (1) Open some Oysters,
remove the beards, and dip them first in beaten egg and
then in finely-grated breadcrumb that have been seasoned
with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Place the Oysters
in their lower shells, put a small piece of butter on each,
and bake for a few minutes in a brisk oven. When ready,
place the shells with the Oysters on a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper spread over a dish, squeeze a
small quantity of lemon- juice over each, and serve.
(2) Open and beard the required quantity of Oysters,
removing them carefully from their shells ; wipe the shells,
put the Oysters back again, and strew over them a small
quantity of washed, boned, and finely-minced anchovies,
a small quantity of powdered mace, and a few drops of
lemon -juice. Dredge them lightly with flour, put a small
piece of butter in each shell, and place them in the oven
until nicely browned over the top. Spread a folded napkin
or a fancy dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the shells
on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Baked Oysters on Toast. — Beard two dozen fine Oysters,
put their beards and liquor into a stewpan, and let them
simmer for a few minutes. With a tin cutter, 3in. in
diameter, cut some croutons of bread, toast them in front
of a clear fire, and butter thickly on one side. Lay the
croutons, buttered side downwards, on a dish that will
stand the heat of the- fire, and put a few' Oysters on each.
Strain the Oyster-liquor, and mix with it loz. of butter
in small bits, season to taste with salt and a small quan-
tity of cayenne pepper, and pour it over the Oysters. Put
the dish into a brisk oven for a few' minutes, then take it
out, and serve the Oysters while very hot with a plate of
cut lemon.
Boiled Oysters. — (1) Open the Oysters, wash the shells
clean in boiling water, and drain them dry ; drop the Oysters
into boiling water, and let them simmer for two minutes.
Serve them in their shells, with vinegar and pepper and
thin slices of bread-and-butter.
_(2) Put a-dozen-and-a-half Oysters into a saucepan
with their liquor, boil up, and add f teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, a little cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste; mix
these well and put in 1 table-spoonful each of butter and
cracker-crumbs. Cook for a few' minutes longer, take them
out, arrange them on pieces of toasted bread on a dish,
pour over the liquor, and serve.
Broiled Oysters. — (1) Take some fine large-sized Oysters,
lay them on a soft cloth to dry, pepper them, and then
place them on a w'ell-huttered gridiron over a clear fire
and leave till thoroughly hot. Lay them then on slices of
hot-buttered toast cut rather thin, and serve while hot.
(2) Dip twenty-four large and freshly-opened Oysters in
an equal quantity of bread and cracker- crumbs, flatten
them with the hand, place them on a well-greased broiler
and broil for two minutes on each side, then salt them
slightly, arrange them on six slices of toast, lightly
glaze them on top with maitre-d’hotel sauce, and serve.
Oysters —continued.
(3) Put a dozen or so large Oysters on a gridiron over
a moderate fire with the flat shell uppermost ; when done
they will open. Preserve the liquor in the shells with the
Oysters, and serve them hot upon a napkin.
(4) Open the Oysters, remove the flat shell, dust a small
quantity of salt and pepper over each one, lay them on a
gridiron, baste them with a few drops of olive oil, and broil
over a charcoal fire. When the Oysters are cooked and
begin to stick to their shells, arrange them on a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish
with cut lemons, and serve.
(5) Stuffed. — Put the grated yolks of four hard-boiled
eggs into a basin, and mix in half the quantity of minced
bacon or salt fat pork, add a little pepper and chopped
parsley, and make them all into a paste by adding the un-
cooked yolk of another egg. Split open 4 dozen Oysters,
stuff them with this mixture, put them in table shells,
4 in each, coat them over with breadcrumbs, put a little
warmed butter on the top, place them in an oven and
bake until done. Put them on a dish, garnish with
pieces of fried bread, and serve. See Fig. 90.
Croustade of Oysters. — (1) Take a loaf of bread that has
been baked in a round 2qt. mould, and wiien three or four
days old take off the top crust and scoop out all the crumb.
Put 3 breakfast-cupfuls of the crumb into a frying-pan with
2 table-spoonfuls of butter, and fry them until they are
quite crisp (it will take about two minutes) over a quick
fire, and they must be stirred continuously. Pour Iqt. of
cream into a saucepan, boil it, and stir in 3 table-spoonfuls
of flour mixed in with 1 teacupful of milk ; boil for eight
minutes longer, and sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste.
Put a layer of the sauce at the bottom of the croustade,
next a layer of Oysters, sprinkle over more salt and pepper,
then pour over another layer, and then add a layer of the
breadcrumbs. Continue in this way until the croustade is
full, finishing up with breadcrumbs. Put the croustade in
the oven, bake slowly for thirty minutes, and serve on a
dish with a garnish of parsley round it. It will take from
lqt. to 3 pints of Oysters for this dish. On an average fifty
oysters will make lqt.
(2) Take lib. or so of butter, break it off into lumps
about the size of an egg, put them into a bowl of ice-cold
water, and work them into the shape of eggs. Roll in
breadcrumbs, then in egg beaten with a little milk, then
in cracker-meal, and egg and cracker-meal again, so as to
give them two coatings of the meal. Plunge them into
a frying-pan of boiling fat and fry to a deep yellow' ; take
them out, cut a round piece from the toil, and pour out the
hot butter, scraping out any that will not ran out, with a
spoon. Fill them up with Oysters, scalded and mixed with
a little anchovy sauce, return the pieces taken off to their
places, put them on a dish, garnish with slices of lemon
and fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Blanch some Oysters and cut them into little pieces.
Boil a small quantity of white sauce till reduced to a
creamy consistency, then mix in some anchovy butter, 1
pinch of cayenne pepper, and add the Oysters. Cut some
thick slices of bread off a household loaf, mark a ring in
the centre of each, on one side only, with a sharp pointed
knife, and fry them till nicely browned all over in butter.
Drain the crusts, hollow them out in the marked circle,
and fill them with the Oyster mixture ; sprinkle a little
grated Parmesan cheese over, baste them with a little
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72
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
warmed butter, and put them in the oven. When nicely
glazed, arrange the crusts on a folded napkin or an orna-
mental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve.
Curried Oysters. — (1) Peel and cut into thin slices a moderate-
sized Spanish onion ; put a lump of butter into a stewpan,
place it over the lire, and when the butter boils put in
the onion and fry it until nicely browned. Next stir in
3 table-spoonfuls of curry powder, add more butter if
necessary, and mix well over the fire. Pour in gradually
a sufficient quantity of broth, put the lid on the pan, anil
let the -whole boil np. Grate a cocoa-nut and peel and
chop a very sour apple, or, instead of the apple, a few
tamarinds would be best if they could be obtained ; put
them into the stewpan with the other ingredients, and boil
the whole gently until the cocoa-nut is tender. Mix 2
table -spoonfuls of flour smooth with a little water, and
stir it into the above mixture ; season to taste with salt,
stir it over the fire, and boil for five minutes. Put two
or three tomatoes, freed of their seeds, into a stewpan with
a hundred Oysters and their liquor, also the milk of the
cocoa-nut. Stir them occasionally, and stew gently for a
few minutes. Add this to the former mixture. Squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon, turn the curry on to a hot
dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of
toast, and serve with a separate dish of rice.
(2) Put five or six dozen Oysters in a basin with their
liquor. Chop two onions into small pieces, put them into
a saucepan with loz. of butter, fry them, and stir in 1
table- spoonful of curry powder and 1 teaspoonful of curry
paste ; when these are incorporated, put in the Oysters
with their liquor, stir well until they are completely
covered with the thick liquor, then turn them out on to a
dish, and serve. A dish of boiled rice should accompany
this.
(3) Peel and mince a large onion, put it in a stewpan
with a lump of butter, and fry until lightly browned ;
blanch two dozen Oysters and drain them. Stir 1 table-
spoonful of curry powder in with the onions, mix well,
put in the Oysters and their strained liquor, stir until
boiling, then take the Oysters out and place them on a
hot dish. Put a small piece of butter that has been
kneaded with a little flour in the sauce, stir it until
thickened, then pour it over the Oysters. Garnish with
sippets of toast or small croft tons of bread that have
been fried a delicate brown in butter, and serve.
Darioles of Oysters. — After having scalded one dozen
Oysters in their own liquor remove their beards and cut
each Oyster into four pieces. Put 2oz. of flour and loz. of
butter into a saucepan, beat them together over the fire,
and when the butter is melted add j- pint of milk and
the Oyster liquor; stir this over the fire till it boils, dust
in a pinch of salt, a little pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne
to taste, two well-beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice. Put the Oysters in buttered dariole-moulds, pour
the liquor over them, and cover with buttered paper ; set
them in a steamer, and-steam them for a-quarter-of-an-hour.
When this is done turn them out and serve with Dutch
sauce.
Devilled Oysters. — (1) Take 1 pint of Oysters, or sufficient
to make a good dish, wipe them dry, and lay them on a
Hat dish ; cover with butter well warmed and mixed with
cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, turn them over and over
in this mixture for ten minutes, then roll them in a paper
of rolled crackers or sifted breadcrumbs ; dip them into
beaten egg, and again roll them in the crumbs, fry them
in boiling lard and butter mixed, and serve as hot as
possible.
(2) Open the Oysters, letting each one remain with its
liquor in the deepest shell. Add to each a few drops of
lemon -juice, a little pepper, cayenne, and salt, and a small
bit of butter. Lay the shells on a gridiron over a clear
hot fire, and let the Oysters cook for three minutes. Serve
them in the shells laid on a napkin on a dish with slices
of bread-and-butter.
Fried Oysters.-— (1) Select large Oysters and drain them;
mix 1 table-spoonful of flour smoothly with \ teacupful of
Oysters — continued.
milk, grate some stale breadcrumb on a sheet of paper,
and season with salt and pepper ; roll the Oysters first in
the paste and then in the breadcrumbs, covering well, but
touching them as little as possible. Lay them on a plate
and leave them for several minutes. Beat one or two eggs
thoroughly, roll the Oysters in it, one at a time, then
roll them again in the seasoned breadcrumbs. Put a large
lump of lard in a frying-pan over the fire, and when blue
smoke rises put in the Oysters and fry them until nicely
browned. Take each Oyster as it is cooked out of the
fat and lay it on a sheet of paper in front of the fire to
drain. Spread a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper
over a hot dish, pile the Oysters upon it, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Open the Oysters, beard and wipe them quite dry,
season slightly with grated nutmeg, roll them in beaten
white of egg, and then in finely-grated breadcrumb ; put
a large piece of lard in a flat stewpan, and when it boils
put in the Oysters and fry them until nicely browned.
Drain the Oysters as they are done on a sheet of kitchen-
paper, spread a fancy-edged dish-paper or a folded napkin
over a hot dish, pile the Oysters on it, garnish them with
fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Partially boil the Oysters in their own liquor, beard
them, and dry them on a cloth. Make a thin batter, and
put the Oysters into it. Put a large lump of lard in a
fiat stewpan, place it on the fire, and when boiling take
each Oyster up with 1 table-spoonful of the batter and
drop it in. When delicately browned, take the Oysters
out, and drain them on a sheet of kitchen-paper placed in
front of the fire ; spread a fancy disli-paper or a folded
napkin over a hot dish, arrange the Oysters on it, garnish
them with fried parsley, and serve.
(4) Season some breadcrumbs with salt, pepper, powdered
sweet herbs, and grated lemon-peel. Beat up two or three
eggs on a plate. Dry some Oysters as much as possible,
dip them in the beaten eggs, and roll them in the bread-
crumbs. Egg and breadcrumb them twice. Melt a lump of
butter in a fiat stewpan, put in the Oysters, and fry until
nicely browned. Afterwards place them on a sheet of
paper for a minute or two to absorb the grease, then put
them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental disli-paper, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
(5) Blanch twenty -four large Oysters in their own liquor
for two minutes, and drain them ; spread some chicken
forcemeat over both sides of the Oysters, dip them in egg
and finely-sifted breadcrumbs, fry in hot lard for three
minutes, and serve with fried parsley.
Fried Oysters and Bacon. — Open one dozen Oysters and
remove their beards ; cut as many thin slices of bacon as
there are Oysters, trim them neatly, lay an Oyster on
each, roll them up, and fasten with small skewers. Fry
each roll carefully and nicely. Cut as many rounds of
bread, about Jin. thick and 2in. in diameter, as there are
rolls of bacon, toast them eveidy on both sides, and butter
Fig. 91. Fkied Ovsteks and Bacon.
them. Spread a folded napkin or a fancy-edged disli-paper
on a hot dish, put the pieces of toast on it, with a roll
on each, garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 91), and
serve.
Fried Oyster Balls. -Blanch two dozen Oysters in their
own liquor, then strain and cut them into very small
pieces. Skin and finely chop 4oz. of suet and also chop
very finely 4oz. of veal. Mix all the ingredients together
in a basin, season with salt, pepper, and a small quantity
of pounded mace, and bind them with beaten yolk of egg.
For details respecting Culinary Processest Utensilst Sauces , tic., referred to, see under their special heads.
73
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
Dredge flour over a table, put the mixture on it, divide
it into small quantities, and roll them into halls. Dip the
halls in beaten white of egg, then roll them in finely-
grated breadcrumbs. Put a large quantity of clarified fat
in a stewpan, place it over the fire until smoke rises, then
drop in the halls, one at a time, and fry until lightly
browned. As the halls are cooked, take them out of the
fat and lay them on sheets of paper to drain. Arrange
them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with sprigs
of parsley, and serve.
Tried Oyster Cutlets.— (1) Finely chop several large Oysters,
together with an equal quantity of veal, put them together
in a mortar with a small quantity of chopped veal-suet,
and pound them until smooth. Soak in the liquor from
the Oysters as many breadcrumbs as it will moisten, then
mix them with the other ingredients. Season the mixture
to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of pounded
mace, and bind it with beaten yolks of eggs. When quite
smooth divide the mixture into equal portions, and mould
them into Hat cutlets ; roll them in beaten egg and bread-
crumbs, covering them well. Put a lump of butter in a
flat stewpan, place it on the fire, and when boiling put
in the cutlets and fry them until nicely browned. Drain
them for a minute on a sheet of paper in front of the
fire, then arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, over
which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish -paper ; put a bunch of fried parsley in the centre,
and serve.
(2) Fry some breadcrumbs in a little butter, and mix
them in with the strained liquor of a dozen Oysters. Chop
the Oysters very fine, put them into a saucepan of water,
and boil for two or three minutes. Take them out, drain
off all the liquor, sprinkle over salt and pepper, and mix
in the yolks of two eggs. When this mixture is cold,
form it into the shape of cutlets, dip them into beaten
egg and then into the fried breadcrumbs, plunge them into
a frying-pan of boiling lard, and fry to a light brown.
Take them out, drain, put them on a dish, and serve very
hot, with a garnish of fried parsley.
Fried Oysters as in Hamburg. -For this dish Holstein
Oysters and zwiebach should be used. This zwiebach is a
milk roll, cut in slices and dried to a light colour in a
moderate oven. It is obtainable anywhere in Germany.
Beard a dozen or so of these Oysters, roll them well in
grated Parmesan cheese, dip them into well-beaten egg,
and then into the pounded zwiebach. Plunge them into a
frying-pan of boiling lard, fry them for a minute or two,
take them out, drain them, put them on a dish, and
serve.
Fried Oyster Patties.— Make some good puff paste, roll it
out rather thin, and cut it into round pieces. Chop some
Oysters, mix them with chopped hard-boiled egg, a little
chopped parsley, and a little grated lemon-peel ; add a season-
ing of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, moisten the
mixture with cream and a little Oyster liquor, then put a
good spoonful on to each piece of paste, fold it over, moisten
the edges with a little cream, and press them together.
Brush the patties over with the yolk of an egg, and fry
them for ten or fifteen minutes.
Fried Truffled Oysters.— Chop 6oz. of the cooked breast
of a fowl and half the quantity of raw fat salt pork, put
them into a mortar with a little pepper, and pound them.
Chop a few truffles into pieces the size of peas, and mix
them in. Put four dozen Oysters on a cloth, and with a
sharp knife inserted at the edge of one of them make an
opening up and down inside, but not to make the hole too
large, and fill them with the mixture. Put them, when
all done, into a basin of flour, coat them well over, dip
them into well-beaten egg, plunge them into a frying-pan
of boiling fat, and fry to a golden colour. Take them out,
drain them on a cloth in a slow oven, sprinkle over with
salt, and arrange them on pieces of toast on a dish, and
serve
Imitation Fried Oysters. — Take a bunch of salsify or
Oyster-plant, scrape it well, wash, and grate it. Make a
Oysters — continued.
thin batter with \ pint of milk, two well-beaten eggs, and
sufficient flour ; stir into it the scraped salsify, beat the
batter well, mix in a seasoning of pepper and salt, then
drop it a spoonful at a time into boiling lard or dripping.
Have a colander quite hot set over a bowl in the oven
and as fast as the mock Oysters are fried throw them into
it to drain. Serve hot, free from grease, and as quickly
as possible.
Imitation Scalloped Oysters.— (1) Put several herring roes in
water the night before wanted, and let them soak all night.
On the following morning dry the roes and cut them into
pieces the size of an Oyster. Butter the interior of some
scallop shells, and put in each 1 teaspoonful of anchovy
sauce, the smallest quantity of pounded mace, a few drops
of lemon-juice, and a thick layer of breadcrumbs. Put a
piece of the roe in each shell, strew a few minced capers
over them, and cover with more breadcrumbs. Put a very
small piece of butter on the top of each, and place them in
a slow oven. When nicely browned on the top, arrange
the shells on a hot dish, over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Remove the skin and bone from a Dutch herring,
finely mince the flesh, and spread it over the well-washed
lower shells of some Oysters. Boil a calf’s sweetbread in
salted water, and when it is cooked cut it into small
pieces ; grate about 1 breakfast-cupful of stale bread, and
season it with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Dip
the pieces of sweetbread first in beaten egg and then in the
seasoned breadcrumbs, lay a piece in each shell, then cover
them with breadcrumbs, placing here and there a small
piece of herring. Baste them with butter, and brown
them under a salamander or in a brisk oven. When
lightly and delicately browned, arrange the shells on a
hot dish that has been embellished with a folded napkin
or an ornamental dish-paper and serve.
Imitation Stewed Oysters. — Take a bunch of salsify,
scrape and wash it well, put it in a saucepan over the
fire in weak vinegar and water, bring it quickly to the
boil, and boil for ten minutes. Drain off the vinegar
and water and rinse the salsify in boiling water, drain
this off also, and then pour over just sufficient boiling
water to cover and let it boil gently for another ten
minutes ; add 2oz. of butter and a seasoning of salt
and pepper and let it stew in this till quite tender.
Meantime have a double saucepan on the fire, the outer
one filled with boiling water ; put in the inner one | pint
of milk, thicken it with cornflour, and add 2oz. of butter.
When the salsify is quite tender put it into this sauce.
Add a little pepper and salt and let it remain for five
minutes, keeping the water hr the outer saucepan boiling
steadily. Serve in a covered dish.
Oysters a l’Americaine. — (1) Place in a saucebowl 1 heaped
teaspoonful of salt, f teaspoonful of very finely-ground
white pepper, one medium-sized, fine, sound, well-peeled
shallot, 1 heaped teaspoonful of chives, and \ teaspoonful
of parsley, all very finely chopped. Mix lightly together,
then pour in 1 teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of tabasco
sauce, 1 saltspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and lastly
1 gill (or 5J table-spoonfuls) of good vinegar. Mix it
thoroughly with a spoon, and it is ready for use. A
teaspoonful should be poured over each Oyster just before
eating.
(2) Open some Oysters, put them into a saucepan with
their liquor and salt and pepper, boil them for one-minute-
and-a-half, place them in a soup-plate, pour over some
hot milk, and serve. A little cornflour may be mixed
with the milk to thicken it slightly. This should only be
prepared just before being served.
Oysters a la Delmonico.— Put loz. of butter into a sauce-
pan, work in A table-spoonful of cornflour, then stir in 1
teacupful of thick cream, adding it slowly and stirring over
a slow fire. Should it be too thick a little of the strained
Oyster liquor should be added. Now put in the yolk of an
egg, remove from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice,
stir vigorously, pour it over one dozen Oysters arranged
in a bowl, and serve as quickly as possible.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
74
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — con ti nued.
Oysters an Gratin. — Put in a small lined stewpan Jib. of
butter and 1 teacupful of cream, and stir them over the
fire until well mingled. Add to the mixture 1 wineglassful
of wine, 1 table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and a small
quantity each of cayenne pepper and grated lemon-peel,
and continue stirring over the fire until hot. Pour half
of the above mixture on to a dish, lay the Oysters on it,
strew Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs over them, dust
lightly with salt and pepper, pour over the remainder of
the cream and butter, and strew another thin layer of
crumbs and cheese on the top. Bake until nicely browned
in a brisk oven and serve while hot.
Oysters a l’Indiemie. — Put | table-spoonful each of curry
powder and flour in a small saucepan ; mix in gradually 1
teacupful of cream, 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped onion,
and the same quantity of finely-chopped apple, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and stew the whole gently
for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Put 1 tea-
cupful of well-washed rice in a saucepan of water and
boil it until tender. The rice should be quite dry when
cooked. Put a dozen Oysters in the sauce with a squeeze
of lemon-juice, and leave them until hot. Make a wall of
the rice on a hot dish, and pour the Oysters hi the centre.
Serve while very hot.
Oysters a la Minute.— Open some Oysters and put them
on a fine hair sieve until well drained. Put 1 table-spoonful
of coulis hi a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs and a
glass of champagne, and place it over the fire until boiling.
Mix the Oyster liquor with the sauce and continue boiling
until somewhat reduced. Next put in the Oysters and
toss them over the fire for a minute or two. Turn them
on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets or toast on small
croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Oysters en Papillotes. —Put some cold cooked potatoes into
a basin and mash them, adding gradually sufficient butter
and flour to make them hito a stiff paste. Roll this out
on a board, cut' it into lozenge -shaped pieces, put three
Oysters together on each piece, roll them up, and bake in
a moderate oven until done and of a light brown. Put
them on a dish and serve hot.
Oysters a la Poulettc. — Put thirty-six freshly-opened
Oysters in a saucepan with a little of their own liquor,
loz. of butter, \ pinch each of salt and pepper, and par-
boil for three minutes, adding J pint of hollandaise sauce ;
stew well together for two minutes longer, but without
letting the liquor boil, add 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley
and the juice of half a lemon, stir slightly, and serve very
hot.
Oysters a la St. Bernard. — Open the required quantity of
Oysters, put them in a saucepan, strain over their own
liquor, and partially boil them. Drain the Oysters, remove
their beards, and dip them twice in egg and breadcrumbs.
Season some rich brown gravy with minced parsley and
sweet herbs, a small quantity of mace, and salt and pepper
to taste ; thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour,
stirring it over the fire until boiling. Melt a lump of
lard in a flat stewpan, put in the Oysters, and fry them
a golden brown ; when cooked, drain, and put them in the
gravy. Boil the whole up gently, then turn it on to a
hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and cut lemons, and
serve without delay.
Oysters a la d'Uxelles. — Put some Oysters into a sauce-
pan of boiling water, let them remain for about a minute
or so, take them out, and plunge them in cold water. Place
them on a plate with another one on the top to keep them
flat, and let them remain until quite cold. Cut them open
horizontally but not quite through, mask them inside with
a layer about Jin. thick of reduced d’Uxelles sauce, close
them together, dip them into frying-batter, and fry until
they are done and quite crisp. Put them on a dish, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve with more of the sauce in a
sauceboat.
Oyster Bouchees. — Blanch two dozen Oysters and turn ten
mushrooms ; cut both into small pieces, put them into a
saucepan with some German sauce, and stir over the fire
till hot. Prepare some puff paste, giving it six turns, roll
Oysters — continued.
it out to about Jin. in thickness, and with a fluted tin
cutter, about 2in. in diameter cut eighteen rounds out of
the paste. Arrange the pieces of paste on a baking-sheet,
let them rest on ice for ten minutes, then brush over with
beaten egg, and with a plain tin cutter ljin. in diameter
cut through the centre of each bouchee, to about one-third the
thickness of the paste. Bake the bouchees in a quick oven,
and when cooked, lift off the inner circle of the paste,
and hollow them out inside. Fill the bouchees with the
salpifon of Oysters and mushrooms, and replace the covers.
Arrange the bouchees on an ornamental dish-paper or a
folded napkin on a dish, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve.
Oyster Cakes. — Beard a dozen or two Oysters, chop them
together with an equal quantity of veal, put all together
in a mortar with ‘2oz. of chopped beef suet, and pound
until smooth ; add about a third of the quantity of grated
breadcrumb, season to taste with salt, pepper, and a
little pounded mace, moisten the whole with a well-beaten
egg and a small quantity of the Oyster liquor, and mould
it into round flat cakes. Put a large lump of lard or
clarified dripping into a flat stewpan, place it on the fire,
and when blue smoke rises put in the cakes and fry
them till golden brown. Drain the cakes well, put them
on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin
or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve.
Oyster Canapees.- -Finely chop a dozen Oysters, put them
in a saucepan with 1 teaspoonful of cracker dust or finely-
grated breadcrumb, a small lump of butter about the size
of a walnut, and J teacupful of thick cream, and season
with pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fire and
let it simmer for a few minutes. Cut some slices of bread
about Jin. in thickness, butter them, and put them on a
hot dish. Pour the mixture over the bread-and-butter,
and serve it while hot.
Oysters in Cases. — Open and blanch twenty-four medium-
sized Oysters in a saute-pan with 1 wineglassful of white
wine and loz. of butter, and season with a pinch of pepper
and a taste of nutmeg. Let them cook for five minutes,
then add 1 pint of well-reduced veloute sauce, and cook
for another five minutes, adding Joz. of crayfish butter,
and stirring occasionally. Fill six buttered paper cases
with four Oysters each and the garnishing equally divided.
Sprinkle over a little fresh breadcrumbs, and arrange them
on a tin roasting-pan. Spread a very little butter over
each patty, and put them in a moderate oven for five
minutes. Have a hot dish ready with a folded napkin
spread over it, arrange the patties on it, and serve.
Oysters in Caviare Bolls. — Pass Jib. of dried flour through
a fine sieve ; take 4oz. of it and mix it with 1 teacupful
of milk and Joz. of yeast. Put the remainder into a
basin, make a hole in the centre, sprinkle in a little salt,
and add the yolks of three eggs, 3oz. of warmed butter,
and sufficient lukewarm milk to make it into a stiff
paste. Work vigorously for eight minutes, and leave it hi
a warm place until wanted. Put the dough in front of
the fire, and when it has risen to double its original bulk
add it to the paste, work well for five or six minutes
longer, place a cloth over the basin, put it back in front
of the fire at only a moderate temperature, and let it
remain for two hours. Turn it out on to a well-floured
board or table, and when quite cold cut it in quarters,
roll each out into a long shape, and cut them transversely
into pieces so that when they are rolled up they will be
of the size of a walnut. Form them into balls, and put
them on a baking-slieet at a little distance from one
another. Let them stand for lialf-an-hour or so, then
brush them over with egg, and bake in a moderate oven
until done. Take them out, and when quite cold scoop
out a little from each, fill the cavity with caviare, put an
Oyster in the centre ; and serve on a dish garnished with
parsley.
Oyster Chartreuse. — Pare six large potatoes, put them
into a saucepan of water, and boil. Take them out when
done, niash them, and add 1 gill of milk, salt and pepper
to taste, 1 table-spoonful of butter, and lastly the whites
For ditails respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils. Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
75
Oysters —continued.
of four eggs beaten to a froth. Butter a charlotte-mould
(one that will hold Jgall.), sprinkle it over inside with
breadcrumbs, cover these with a layer of the potato mixture,
and let it set for a few minutes. Put 1 pint of cream
into a saucepan with a slice of onion, boil it, and add 2
table-spoonfuls of flour mixed in about J teacupful of
milk or cream. Sprinkle in salt and pepper to taste, and
boil for eight minutes. Put lqt. of Oysters into a sauce-
pan with their liquor, boil till tender, take them out, and
drain on a colander. Remove the slice of onion from the
cream, put in the drained Oysters, stir, and turn it
out into the mould. Cover the top with a layer of the
potato mixture, taking care not to put too much on at a
time, or the liquor from the inside will ooze out. Put
the mould into a moderate oven and bake for thirty
minutes. Take it out when done, let it stand for ten
minutes, then put a dish on the top ; turn it over, and
Fig. 92. Oysteii Chartreuse.
take the mould off very carefully. Put a garnish of fried
parsley round the dish (see Fig. 92), and serve. Great
care must be taken in lining the mould with the potato
mixture so that there are no small holes or cracks left in
it, or the liquor will run out, and the effect of the dish
would be spoilt.
Oysters with. Cream. — (1) Take two hundred and fifty good-
sized Oysters, lift them out of their liquor one at a time,
and lay them in a deep pan. Strain half the liquor and
boil it. Take 6oz. of butter, divide it into small lumps,
roll them in flour, stir them into the boiling liquor, put in
the Oysters, and take them out as soon as the liquor boils
again. Stir in, very gradually, 1 1 pints of cream, add a
seasoning of pepper or grated nutmeg and celery salt,
and when it .again comes to the boil, return the Oysters
to it ; when they are heated through, pour into a hot
dish, and serve.
(2) Put 1 pint of cream into a saucepan with a small
piece of onion, and a little mace tied up in a muslin bag.
Boil it, and stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour mixed with a
little milk or cream. Put lqt. of Oysters into a saucepan
with their liquor, and boil them for a few minutes until
tender, skimming frequently. Take out the Oysters, drain,
put them into the saucepan with the cream, remove the
onion and mace, pour it into a dish, and serve hot.
(3) Boil three dozen Oysters in their own liquor for a
few minutes, then strain, cut them into small pieces, and
dredge with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Put 4oz. of
butter in a stewpan, mix in 2oz. of flour, and stir over
the fire until the butter has melted and mixed with the
flour ; then pour in f breakfast-cupful of cream, and stir
until boiling. Move the saucepan off' the fire, and put in
the Oysters with J table-spoonful of chopped parsley and
1 teaspoonful of very finely-chopped onion. Stir the
mixture well, put it into large Oyster shells, strew grated
breadcrumb over the top of each, distribute two or three
small pieces of butter on them, and place them in a
brisk oven until nicely browned. Arrange the shells with
the Oysters on a hot dish, over which has been spread a 1
Oysters — conti nu ed.
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with
parsley, and serve.
Oyster Cromeskies. — (1) Scald the required quantity of
Oysters in their own liquor, and put them between slices
of bacon cut very thin. Two Oysters are quite sufficient
for one slice of bacon. Roll the bacon over and fasten
the Oysters in with a small skewer. Fry them in a frying-
pan, and when they are of a pale brown, take them out,
place them on a dish, and serve hot.
(2) Put one dozen Oysters into a saucepan and parboil
them in their own liquor; take them out and chop them
up, after the beards have been removed. Put a little
butter into a saucepan, melt it, stir in a small quantity
of flour, add the chopped Oysters, strain in the Oyster
liquor, and add salt and pepper to taste and a little finely-
chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly, remove the pan from
the lire, and stir in the yolk of an egg and the juice of
half a lemon. Have ready twelve slices of fat bacon cut
thin and parboiled, and put the Oyster mixture on them
in equal quantities. When cold fasten them over, securing
them with a small skewer, dip them into batter, and fry
to a light brown in boiling fat. When done, take them
out, drain thoroughly, put them on a dish, and serve
with a garnish of parsley. The slices of bacon should
be cut 1 J2in. by 2 Jin. before the mixture is put on.
(3) Put a dozen Oysters into a saucepan with a little
white wine, poach them for a few minutes, take them out,
drain, and chop them up into small pieces. Put some
reduced bechamel sauce in a saucepan, stir in a little of
the strained Oyster liquor, and when it is succulent and
well-thickened remove it from the fire and add the chopped
Oysters. Sprinkle in a little grated nutmeg, turn the
mixture out on to a flat pan, and let it cool. Take pieces
the size of an egg, flatten them a little, and place them
between pieces of pancake or wafer paste. Dip them into
smooth thick frying-batter, plunge them into a pan of
boiling fat, and fry for about ten minutes. Take them
out, drain off' all the fat, arrange them on a napkin spread
over a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve very hot.
Large Oysters are best foj this dish.
(4) Open two dozen Oysters, put them with their liquor
in a stewpan, and partially boil them ; drain the Oysters,
remove their beards, and cut them into small pieces. Put
2oz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of Hour in a saucepan,
mix them well over the fire, put in the Oysters and their «
liquor, which should be strained, and 1 table-spoonful of
chopped parsley, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and
a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture for
two or three minutes on the fire, then move it to the side
and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and the strained
juice of a small lemon. Spread the mixture out on a dish
and let it cool. Cut some thin slices of partially
boiled bacon in pieces 2 Jin. long and 1 Jin. wide. Make a
thick paste with flour, 1 table-spoonful of oil, and 1 table-
spoonful of water, then stir in sufficient tepid water to
make a thin batter ; add at the last the well-whisked
white of one egg and 1 saltspoonful of salt. Put a small
quantity of the Oyster mixture on each piece of bacon, and
roll it up tightly. Put a good-sized lump of butter or
lard in a fiat stewpan, place it over the fire, and when
blue smoke rises, which denotes that it is boiling, dip the
cromeskies in the batter, put them in the fat, and fry
until nicely browned. When taken out of the fat, lay
them on a cloth or sheet of paper in front of the fire to
drain. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper
over a hot dish, arrange the cromeskies in a circle on it,
fill the centre with crisp, fried parsley, and serve.
Oyster Croquettes.— (1) Blanch six dozen Oysters, trim them,
and chop the meat into small pieces ; put it into a sauce-
pan with a third of the bulk of mushrooms, cooked and
cut into small pieces. Put 1 pint of bechamel sauce into
a saucepan over a clear fire, reduce it, stirring frequently,
and add a few table-spoonfuls of the Oyster liquor and a
little cream. When it is well reduced and begins to froth
add a liaison made with the yolks of three eggs to thicken
it, and lastly add a small quantity of butter. Stir in the
Oyster mixture, turn it out into a basin, and let it get
quite cold, placing the basin if necessary on ice. Take
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Jcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
76
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
out small quantities about the size of an egg, roll them
on a board sprinkled with breadcrumbs, make them round
with spoons, and dip them first into well-beaten egg and then
into breadcrumbs. Have ready a frying-pan of boiling fat,
plunge them in a few at a time, and when they are done
and of a good colour take them out, drain, arrange them
on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with a garnish
of fried parsley.
(2) Chop 1 breakfast-cupful of Oysters very line and mix
them up with the same quantity of cooked minced veal.
Put 3 table-spoonfuls of powdered crackers in a basin with
the Oyster liquor, soak them well, and add the Oyster
and veal mixture, 1 table-spoonful of warmed butter, the
yolks of two eggs, and 1 table-spoonful of onion -juice.
Mix thoroughly, take a little out at a time, roll it into
balls about the size of a greengage, dip them first in egg
and then in cracker-crumbs, plunge them into a frying-pan
of boiling fat, and fry to a light brown. Place them on a
dish with a napkin folded on it, and serve. The Oysters
do not require to be cooked before being minced, but the
veal must, as it takes longer to cook.
(3) Boil about two dozen Oysters in their own liquor for
five minutes, drain, cut them into moderate-sized pieces,
and dust over with salt and pepper. Put 4oz. of butter
in a saucepan with 2oz. of flour, stir them over the fire
until mixed, then pour in l breakfast-cupful of cream and
continue stirring until boiling. Take the saucepan off the
fire, and put in the Oysters with \ table-spoonful of chopped
parsley and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Stir the mixture
well, turn it on to a dish, and leave it until cool. Divide
the mixture into small quantities, roll them into balls with
the hands, then roll them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs.
Put a lump of lard or clarified fat in a frying-pan, make
it hot, then put in the balls, a few at a time, and fry
them until nicely browned. As each lot of balls are done,
lay them on paper to drain. When well drained, arrange
the balls on a hot dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with
sprigs of parsley, and serve.
Oyster Forcemeat. — (1) Put Jib. of butter in a saucepan
and when it has melted pour it over 1 breakfast-cupful
each of breadcrumb and crackers rolled very small. Put
them into a basin, and add the strained liquor of the
Oysters, one egg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix it up
lightly so as not to make it into a paste, and then add
two dozen Oysters. Stir up again, and the stuffing is
ready for use.
(2) Take ilb. of crumb from a stale household loaf and
add it to a dozen Oysters finely minced. Put them into
a basin with 2oz. of finely-slired suet and the same quantity
of lean ham, or bacon and butter. Season with grated
nutmeg, 2 table-spoonfuls of sweet herbs, a little parsley,
both finely minced, and a little salt. Add sufficient well-
beaten egg (it will require about three) to make it of the
necessary consistence. This is a good stuffing for fresh-
water fish.
(3) Strain the liquor from lqt. of Oysters, and pour it
over sufficient stale bread to fill the body of a turkey ;
carefully remove all bits of shell from the Oysters, and
then add them to the bread with 1 teaspoonful of salt, J
saltspoonful of pepper, and a stalk of celery minced very
fine, or 1 teaspoonful of celery -leaves dried and powdered.
A good stuffing for turkey.
Oyster Fricassee. — (1) Open and beard some Oysters, put
them into a stewpan with their own liquor, loz. of butter,
and the strained juice of half a lemon ; season them with
a small quantity each of cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg,
and let them simmer gently at the side of the fire for a
few minutes. Do not cook them too much or they will
shrivel up. Beat the yolks of two eggs together with 3 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, strain them, and stir ill with the
Oysters. Toss the whole over the fire for a minute, then
turn them on to a dish, and serve.
(2) Beard a dozen Oysters and strain their liquor ; put
a small lump of butter into a stewpan with 1 dessert-
spoonful of Hour, mix them on the fire, then add the
strained liquor of the Oysters, and stir it over the fire
until thickened. Beat the yolk of an egg with about
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Oysters — continued.
£ teacupful of cream, strain and stir it in the sauce, season
to taste, and stir it at the edge of the fire for a few
minutes but do not let it boil again. Put the Oysters in
and let them warm gradually. Cut some slices of bread,
trim off the crusts, and toast them ; butter while hot, lay
them on a dish, pour the fricasseed Oysters over, and
serve.
(3) Put 2 table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan,
and when it is brown add 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, a small quantity of cayenne and salt, and lastly
‘2qts. of well- washed and drained Oysters. Work 1 table-
spoonful of flour into 2 table -spoonfuls of butter, and when
the butter is melted stir in the Oysters with the mixture
and cook until they begin to curl; stir in the yolks of
three eggs, well beaten, remove the pan from the fire,
turn the fricassee out on to a dish, and serve with a
garnish of fried bread and parsley.
(4) Take a rasher of ham, pour boiling water over it,
and let it soak for half-an-hour, then cut it up small and
put it over the fire in a saucepan with the strained liquor
of 3 [lints <rf Oysters, 1 pint of good strong veal broth or
chicken broth, an onion chopped fine, a small quantity of
chopped parsley and sweet marjoram, and pepper to
taste. Let this simmer gently for a-quarter-of-an-hour,
and then allow it to boil fast for five minutes, skim and put
in the Oysters, stir constantly, and let it boil up once;
then mix in 1 table-spoonful of cornflour blended smoothly
with 1 [lint of milk, keep stirring till it boils and begins
to thicken, then add 2oz. of butter. When the butter is
melted lift out the Oysters with a skimmer, lay them on
a hot dish, and keep them covered. When the sauce again
comes to the boil take it from the fire; have a beaten
egg ready in a cup, beat into it a spoonful or two of
the hot sauce, then empty the cup into the saucepan,
mixing the egg well in. Pour the sauce or gravy over the
Oysters, and serve at once, adding the strained juice of a
lemon after the tureen is placed on the table.
Oyster Fritters. — Separate the yolk and white of an egg,
beat the yolk well, and mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls each
of ground rice and salad-oil, £ table-spoonful of vinegar,
and a small quantity of cold water; mix smoothly and
let the batter stand for an hour. Open the Oysters
and beard them ; whisk the whites of the eggs to a
stiff snow, and mix them in lightly with the batter.
Put a large lump of lard or clarified fat into a Hat
stewpan, and place it on the fire until boiling. Take
the Oysters one at a time, put each in a table-spoon,
fill the spoon with flatter, and pour it into the boil-
ing fat. Fry until nicely and equally browned, then
drain them well. Spread a folded napkin or an orna-
mental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the fritters in the
centre, garnish with cut lemons (see Fig. 93), and serve
with a [date of thin slices of brown bread-and-butter.
Oysters on Ice (a l’Arctique).— Procure a large square-
shaped block of ice with a level top surface, and with a
hot iron melt a cavity in it large enough to hold two
or three dozen Oysters. Sprinkle the Oysters over with
salt and pepper, place the block of ice on a napkin on a
dish to prevent it slipping, put the Oysters in the cavity,
garnish with parsley, both on the top of and round the
block of ice, and it is ready for table. If desired the
sides of the ice may be chipped with an ice-axe to
uces, <bc., referred, to, see under their special heads.
77
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
resemble a rock, and parsley may be spread over tbe
Oysters, and flowers inserted here and there (see Fig. 94).
Oyster Kabobs. — Put some chopped onions, mushrooms, and
parsley into a saucepan with a little butter and flour,
warm it a little, and add two dozen blanched Oysters ;
when they are warm stir in sufficient yolk of egg to make
it of that consistence that it will adhere to the Oysters.
Pass a skewer through six of the Oysters at a time with
as much of the mixture on them as possible, then dip
them in breadcrumbs, then beaten egg, and lastly bread-
crumbs again. Put them into a frying-pan with butter,
and fry to a light brown. Put them on a dish, pull out
the skewer, and serve.
Oyster Ketchup. — (1) Pound two dozen Oysters with three
Bordeaux anchovies in a mortar, anti season with |oz. each of
ground cloves, cayenne pepper and ground mace. Mix
their liquor with them, turn them into a lined sauce-
pan, pour in 1 pint of white wine and 2 wineglassfuls of
brandy. Place the ketchup over a slow fire until boiling,
then strain it through a fine silk sieve. When cold pour
the ketchup into bottles and keep them tightly corked for
use.
(2) Wash two dozen Oysters in their own liquor, then put
them into a mortar and pound. Strain the liquor of the
Oysters through muslin into a saucepan, add the pounded
Oysters with 1 pint of sherry, and place them over a slow
fire. When boiling, put into the liquor a small quantity
each of pounded mace and cayenne pepper and 2 table-
spoonfuls of salt. Boil gently for five minutes, then skim
the ketchup and pass it through a fine hair sieve. When
cold, bottle the ketchup for use; the corks must be put
in tightly and sealed down.
(3) Take one hundred fresh Oysters, boil them in their
own liquor till all the goodness is extracted, then strain,
and measure the liquor. Add to it half what it measures
of port wine and half what it measures of sherry. Put
wine and liquor together into a saucepan over the fire and
add six anchovies, 1 drachm of ginger, and Joz. each of
allspice, mace, and white pepper: boil all together for a-
quarter-of-an-hour or twenty minutes. Have ready a large
jar with the thinly-pared yellow rind of a lemon, a piece
of horseradish cut small, and twelve shallots in it ; pour
the boiling ketchup over these, let it stand till cold, and
then bottle it, dividing the spice among the bottles. Cork
well.
Oyster Loaves. — Beard and cut some Oysters into halves;
put them in a stewpan with their strained liquor, 1 wine-
glassful of white wine, and a moderate quantity of gravy ;
season to taste with salt, pepper, and a moderate quantity
each of grated lemon-peel and pounded mace. Stew them
gently, and when cooked put in about loz. of butter in small
pieces. Cut the tops oil' some small French rolls, scoop
out the crumb, put the rolls into a stewpan of boiling butter,
and fry until crisp and brown Rub the crumb of the rolls
up finely and fry that also. Drain the rolls, and fill them
Oysters — continued.
with the Oyster mixture ; place them on a hot dish, put
the crumbs round, and serve.
Oyster-and-Macaroni Pudding. — (1) (Baked). — Put 5oz. of
macaroni into a saucepan of boiling salted water, cook for
twenty minutes, then take it out and drain. Take a
3 pint pudding-basin, butter it well inside, put in half
the macaroni, place two dozen Oysters on the top, put
3oz. of butter pulled in pieces on these, sprinkle over salt
and pepper to taste, and cover with the remainder of the
macaroni. Put 1 table-spoonful of flour into a basin, make
it into a thin paste with a little milk, beat in an egg,
pour in more milk to make the quantity of it used 1
breakfast-cupful in all, and add a little of the strained
Oyster liquor. Pour it all over the macaroni, put the
pudding-basin into a moderate oven, bake for about
twenty minutes, when it should be done, and serve.
(2) Put a layer of stewed macaroni in a deep dish, place
some Oysters on the top, and sprinkle over a little cayenne
and grated lemon-rind. Pour over 1 gill of cream, cover
all with breadcrumbs, put the dish in the oven, and bake
to a light brown. When done, serve very hot, with 1
sauceboatful of piquant sauce.
Oyster Omelet. — (1) Put half-a dozen Oysters into a saucepan
with their liquor, and scald them ; take them out, drain,
and cut them into quarters. In the meantime put the
yolks of three eggs into a basin, beat them to a cream,
and add 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 table-spoonful of milk, and lastly the
Oysters. Beat the whites of the three eggs to a stiff:'
froth, and stir them in together with 1 table-spoonful of
melted butter. Put lioz. of butter into a frying-pan,
and when it has melted pour in the contents of the basin,
and hold the pan over the fire until the omelet is set.
Give the pan a vigorous shake, ease the omelet from the
bottom with a knife, hold the pan in front of the fire for
a few minutes to let the upper part set, then fold it over,
place it carefully on a dish, and serve hot.
(2) Open the shells of four Oysters, beard them, and
put them on a sieve to drain. Break two eggs into a
basin, sprinkle over a little pepper, and flavour with a
small quantity of grated lemon-peel. Put loz. of butter
into an omelet-pan, let it melt, toss the pan so as to
spread it, and when it comes to the boiling-point pour in
the eggs and stir well to incorporate with the butter ;
when half done, place the Oysters on one half, cover
with the other part, and cook for a minute or two longer ;
then turn it out on to a very hot plate, dust with salt,
and serve at once.
(3) Scald eighteen Oysters in their own liquor made
boiling hot ; drain, return them to the saucepan, moisten
with }2 pint of German sauce, and season with l pinch of
salt. Make a plain omelet with twelve eggs, turn the
sides over towards the centre, and fill the middle with the
Oyster preparation. Turn it over on to a hot dish, pour
the rest of the sauce round, and serve very hot.
Oyster Pancakes. — Put 1 pint of wheat-flour into a basin
with 1 teaspoonful of salt. Stir in gradually \ pint of
strained Oyster liquor and h pint of milk, mix the batter
until quite smooth, then add two beaten eggs and a few
Oysters. Put a good-sized lump of lard into a frying-pan,
make it hot, then drop in the batter in table-spoonfuls.
Fry tbe pancakes till delicately browned on both sides,
take them out carefully, and drain them on paper. Put
a folded napkin or a dish-paper on a hot dish, put the
Oysters on it, and serve.
Oysters with Parmesan. -Drain the Oysters as free as
possible from liquor; spread a dish thickly with butter,
lay the Oysters on it, strew finely-minced parsley over
them, season with pepper, pour ^ glass of champagne over
them, and cover thickly with grated Parmesan cheese.
Put the dish into the oven, and when nicely browned on
the top drain the fat carefully off the Oysters and serve
while very hot in the same dish.
Oyster Patties. — (1) Large. — Make a crust with lib. of flour
and 41b. of butter. Put 3 pints of Oysters in a stewpan
with half their own liquor and h pint of milk. When
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
78
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — co n tinned.
half cooked line a pie-dish with some of the paste and
two-thirds fill it with the Oysters, adding a seasoning of
pepper and celery salt, 2oz. of butter cut up into little
pieces, and a good sprinkling of flour. Lay the remainder
of the crust over the top, and bake in a quick oven.
(2) Small. — Prepare some rich puff paste and line some
buttered fluted patty-pans with it ; bake them, and when
cooked and cooled turn the paste patties out of the tins.
Put some large Oysters in a stewpan with a few cloves,
a small quantity of mace and grated nutmeg, a few
pounded yolks of hard-boiled eggs, about 2oz. of butter,
and as much of the Oyster liquor as will cover them.
Stew the Oysters until well plumped, then move them
from the fire and leave until cold. Fill the patties with
the Oysters, dust them over witn salt and a small quantity
of cayenne pepper, arrange them on a dish with an orna-
mental folded paper (see Fig. 95), and serve.
(3) Turn a couple of dozen Oysters into a basin with
their liquor. Put 1 oz. of butter into a saucepan and work
it together with 1 tablespoonful of flour to a smooth paste ;
when warm add a little mace, cayenne, and salt, and
pour in gradually 3 table-spoonfuls of cream. Boil for a
few minutes and pour in the strained liquor from the
Oysters, add the Oysters last, and boil for a couple of
minutes longer. Line some small patty-pans with thin
puff paste, put a quantity of rice in each to keep them in
shape, cover the top with more of the paste, and bake in a
brisk oven. Take them out, remove the top, empty out the
rice, fill them with the Oysters and a little of the liquor,
cover them, and serve.
(4) Beard the required quantity of Oysters, rinse them
in their liquor, chop them small, add a little of their
liquor (strained), put them in a pan with a very little
pepper and salt, a scrape of nutmeg, and a morsel of lemon-
peel, and let them simmer for about two minutes. Line
some small patty -pans with putt' paste, put a small quantity
of the chopped Oysters into each, cover with putt' paste,
and bake in a pretty quick oven.
(5) Make some puff paste, roll it out, and with it line
some small tin patty-pans. Put them into a quick oven
and bake ; take them out, leave till cold, then turn them out,
and arrange on a dish. Put some large fresh Oysters into
a saucepan over the fire, allowing two or three to each
patty, and add some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped
fine, a small piece of butter, a seasoning of nutmeg; cloves,
and mace, and sufficient of their liquor to barely cover
them. Let them stew for a short time without coming to
the boil, take them from the fire, and leave till quite
cold ; put two or three into each shell of puff paste and
serve.
(6) Add sufficient strained lemon-juice to l gill of cold
water to mix fib. of flour to a smooth, stiff paste, knead
it well, lay it on a floured paste-board, roll it out, and
spread over fib. of fresh butter; fold it up, dredge with
flour, and roll it out again. Repeat this till fib. of butter
has been rolled in, then fold it in three, and put it into
a cool place for two hours. Beard twenty-five Oysters,
and throw them into boiling water. Put the beards and
liquor over the fire with a very small piece of mace, a
little each of grated nutmeg, white pepper, and cayenne,
and the thinly-pared rind of half a lemon ; let them boil
quickly for ten minutes, then strain the liquor, and add
to it the Oysters cut into six pieces, 1 table-spoonful each
of strained lemon-juice and cornflour blended in 4 table-
spoonfuls of cream, and stir till thick. Lay the paste
out on the paste-board, and with a circular paste-cutter
Oysters — co n tinned.
2fin. in diameter cut it into rounds, then take a paste-cutter,
also circular, but only lfin. in diameter, and press it in the
middle of each round of paste, cutting it half-way through.
Knead the remainder of the paste, roll it out, and cut it
into rounds with the smaller paste-cutter; put all the
rounds of paste on to a floured baking-tin, and bake in a
quick oven. When cooked, remove the centre pieces of
paste from the larger rounds with a sharp penknife, fill up
the hollow with the prepared Oysters, cover with one of
the small pieces of paste, and when all are ready lay them
on a heated napkin on a hot dish and serve immediately.
(7) Open three or four dozen Oysters, beard them, and
put them in a stewpan with their liquor ; skin and bone
half-a-dozen sardines, chop them finely, put them in with
the Oysters, add a few finely-minced capers, the strained
juice of a small lemon, salt and pepper to taste, and a
small quantity of grated nutmeg. Knead 1 table-spoonful
of butter in a small quantity of flour, add it to the above
ingredients, and boil the whole gently for a few minutes.
Prepare a sufficient quantity of short-paste, butter some
small patty-pans, and line them with it. Fill them with
the above mixture and cover with the paste, trimming
oft' neatly round the edges ; make a slight incision at the
top of each patty and bake them in a quick oven. When
the patties are cooked, turn them out of their tins, arrange
them on a dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with neat
sprigs of fried parsley, and serve.
(8) Take some small tin pans. Cut some thin sliees of
stale bread without crust, having a piece to fit the bottom of
each pan, toast them quickly and lightly, butter them while
hot, and put a piece in each pan. Wet them well with
the strained liquor of the Oysters after they are placed
in the pans, then lay on top of the toast as many
Oysters as the tins will hold without heaping them higher
than the sides. Season with pepper and salt, put a piece
of butter on top, and set the pans on a baking-sheet ; turn
a baking-tin down over them to keep in the steam and
the flavour, and bake in a quick oven till the Oysters
begin to shrivel up. About eight minutes ought to be
enough. Serve very hot in the tins in which they were
baked.
Oyster Pie. — (1) Line a deep pie-dish with a thin layer of puff
paste, put it in a moderate oven, and bake the crust ; then
take it out, fill the dish with well-washed Oysters, add a
little butter, sprinkle the Oysters with flour, salt, and
pepper, cover the dish with another layer of the paste,
ornament it with pastry flowers or leaves, put it into a
quick oven, and bake. As soon as the top crust is done
the Oysters should lie cooked ; then take it out, put it on
a dish, and serve. If intended to lie eaten hot it must be
served directly it is cooked, but it is quite as tasty when
cold.
(2) Line a pie-dish with puff paste, and fill it with slices of
stale bread ; butter the paste that covers the edge of the
dish, lay a cover of puff paste over the pie, press the edges
very lightly together, trim them, and bake quickly in a
hot oven. Meantime drain the liquor from I qt. of Oysters
and chop them line with a sharp thin-bladed knife. Blend
1 teaspoonful of cornflour in a very little cold milk, pom-
over it pint of boiling milk or cream, put it over the
fire in a"” saucepan, stir till it thickens, and then add loz.
or rather more of butter ; when the butter has been well
mixed in, season the chopped Oysters with salt and pepper,
stir them into the thickened milk, let them simmer (stirring
all the time) for five minutes, and then take them from the
fire. When the bread pie is baked take it from the oven,
and while still hot carefully raise and take off the upper
crust; remove the bread, fill the dish with the thickened
cream or milk and chopped Oysters, replace the top crust,
put the pie again in the oven till it is thoroughly hot, and
then serve.
(3) Butter a pie-dish; make some rich puff paste, roll it
out, line the sides (not the bottom) of the dish with it,
and cover the edges. Take sufficient fresh Oysters to fill
the dish, pour the liquor from them, and season to taste
with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and powdered mace and
cinnamon. Stir this seasoning well among them, put them
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Satires, the., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
79
Oysters — continued.
into the pie-dish, and pour in some of their liquor. Have
ready chopped the yolks of four or six hard-boiled eggs,
according to the size of the pie, spread them, together
with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs, over the
Oysters, lay a sheet of puff paste over, press the edges
together, trim, and crimp them. Make an ornament of
puff paste in the shape of a rose or tulip, and place it in
a small slit cut for the purpose in the centre of the
crust ; roll out some pastry very thin and cut out seven
leaves, crimping them to lay round it. Bake in a quick
oven.
(4) Take the kidney-fat of a loin of veal, cut it into
thin slices, lay them at the bottom of a pie-dish, and
sprinkle with salt, white pepper, pounded mace, and grated
lemon-peel to taste. Beard lqt. of Oysters, lay them on
the seasoned slices of fat, pour the liquor over them, shake
some more of the seasoning on the Oysters, and then lay
over them the marrow of two hones. Cover the edge of
the pie-dish with a strip of puff paste, cover the pie with
more of the paste, and hake for about forty minutes.
(5) Baltimore. — Make a crust, grease the bottom of a
baking-dish, and cover it with the paste. Season 2qts. of
raw Oysters (without the liquor) with spices to taste
(some preferring nutmeg, mace, and cayenne pepper, other's
black pepper alone), add £lb. of butter and 1 heaped tea-
cupful of grated breadcrumb, put all together in the dish,
and cover it with paste cut in strips, crossed or otherwise
ornamented as fancy suggests. A pound of butter to 2qts. of
Oysters is desired by some, but the quantity named
above is preferable, especially if the Oysters are of fine
quality. A pie of this size will bake -in three-quarters-of-an-
hour if the oven is in good order ; if the heat is not
quick allow it an hour. If in baking tbe crust is likely
to become too brown, put a piece of paper doubled over it,
and the desired colour will be retained; if the pie looks
dry when taken from the oven, pour some of the liquor
that was drained from the Oysters in the dish, having
previously strained and boiled it.
(6) Line a well-buttered pie-dish with puff paste, then put
into it 2qts. of Oysters strained free from liquor and
seasoned to taste with pepper or nutmeg, mace, and cayenne.
Mix with them 2oz. each of breadcrumbs and butter cut
into small pieces, cover with a crust of the puff paste, and
bake it. If the oven is quick three-quarters-of-an-hour
will be sufficient time to cook it, but if the oven is
moderate it will most likely require an hour.
Oyster Pot Pie. — Drain off nearly all the liquor from igall.
of Oysters and put them into a pan holding 3qts. Prepare
a paste with lib. of dour, 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder,
and 1 breakfast-cupful of water, make it like biscuit-paste,
but without breaking, and as soft as possible to handle.
Pat it out with the hands, cover the Oysters with it, and
bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Make an
incision in one side, remove a piece of the crust, and put
in 1 teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, loz. of butter, 1
breakfast- cupful of milk, and 1 teacupful of flour and
water. Stir well, replace the piece of crust that was
taken out, bake for a short time longer, and it is ready to
be served. The crust should be as light as sponge and
but lightly browned, and the Oysters quite cooked but
not hard.
Oyster Powder for Flavouring Sauces. — Open the Oysters
very carefully so as not to cut them, only cutting the
gristle that fastens the shells, and add for each dozen
Oysters two drachms of salt. Pound them together with
the salt, a few at a time in a mortar, and when all are
pounded rub them through a hair sieve. Put them back
again into the mortar, and pound them together with as
much thoroughly dried flour as will make them into a
paste. Roll this paste out several times, the last time
flouring it well and rolling it out to rather less than |in.
thick, then cut it into pieces about lin. square. Lay these
in a Dutch oven near the fire where they will dry very
gently without browning, turn them every twenty minutes,
and as they begin to dry crumble them. When quite dried
(they will take about four hours) pound them fine, sift
them through a fine wire sieve, and put the powder into
bottles, which should be corked and sealed till required for
Oysters — continued.
use. Three drachms of this powder is sufficient to flavour
\ pint of sauce.
Oyster Ragofft. — Open lqt. of Oysters, set them in their
own liquor in a saucepan over the fire, and keep them
hot for some time without boiling, then take them out and
set them aside ; meanwhile peel and pick three dozen
good well-grown mushrooms, cut them in pieces (not too
small), put them in a stewpan on the fire, add 2oz. of
"butter, salt and pepper to taste, and let them stew gently
till well done. Add the Oysters together with \ pint of
fresh cream, and cook them till well mixed; taking care
not to let them boil ; then dish them up and serve garnished
with celery-leaves and fried Oysters.
Oyster Rissolettes. — Open some large Oysters, blanch
them in their own liquor, and heard them. Let the liquor
stand for two or three minutes, then strain it carefully
into a basin. Put loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of
flour into a stewpan, stir
them over the lire until
amalgamated, then pour
in the Oyster liquor, mix-
ing smoothly ; add | tea-
cupful each of cream and
white stock, and continue
stirring over the fire until
thick. Chop and put the
Oysters in the sauce with
a moderate quantity of
chopped mushrooms that
have been dusted with flour and fried in butter, ami season
to taste with salt and a small quantity of cayenne pepper.
Make a sufficient quantity of puff paste, roll it out
thin, and with a tin cutter cut it into small scalloped
rounds; put a small quan-
tity of the Oyster mix-
ture on one half of each
of the rounds (see Fig.
96) and fold the other
half over, moisten round
the edges with a little
water, pinch them to-
gether (see Fig. 97), and
brush each rissolette over
with a pastebrush dipped
in beaten yolk of egg. Spread a sheet of buttered paper
over a baking-sheet, lay the rissolettes on it, a little space
between each, and bake them in a brisk oven. Spread a
folded napkin or a lace-edged dish-paper over a hot dish,
and when the rissolettes are cooked pile them on it, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve.
Oyster Salad. — (1) Clean two heads of celery, leaving a
little of the green part on, and put them into a saucepan
with half their bulk of tender white cabbage. Pour over
sufficient boiling salted water to cover them, and boil for
five minutes. Take them out, place them on a colander
to drain, and mince them very fine. Put the strained
liquor from a couple of dozen Oysters into a saucepan,
boil it, skim it, and add a little vinegar, bruised pepper-
corns, and salt. Remove the pan to the side of the fire,
put in the Oysters, simmer gently for a few minutes until
they are done, take them out, and turn them into a basin
packed in ice to cool. Add a little oil and vinegar to the
chopped celery and cabbage, spread some of it over a dish,
arrange the Oysters on it, putting them close together,
cover with the remainder of the mixture, smooth it over
with a knife, pour over a little thin mayonnaise sauce,
and serve.
(2) Put lqt. of Oysters into a saucepan with their
liquor, cook them, take them out, drain, and season with
1 table-spoonful each of salad-oil and lemon-juice, 3 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste; put
them into a basin packed in ice, ami let them get quite
cold. Scrape and wash a head of celery, cut it into thin
slices, sufficient to fill 2 breakfast-cups, and put it also in
a basin packed in ice, and a lump of ice on it. When
wanted for use, drain the celery, mix it with the Oysters,
turn the whole out on to a dish, and serve.
Fig. 96.
Oyster Rissolette, Open.
Fig. 97.
Oyster Rissolette, Folded.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <i c., referred to, see under their special heads.
80
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
(3) Drain off the liquor from |gall. of Oysters, and
plunge them into a saucepan of boiling vinegar to get
plump without being cooked. Take them out, put them
at once into a basin of cold water so that they will
not shrink, drain off all the water, and place them in a
cool place until wanted. Put the yolks of four hard-boiled
eggs into a' mortar, mash them, and add 2 teaspoonfuls
each of salt, pepper, and made mustard, and lastly 2 table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, a few drops at a time. When the
mixture is quite smooth, add gradually first one well-
whipped egg and then 1 gill of vinegar. Chop fine an equal
bulk of celery as Oysters, and mix in two pickled cucumbers
cut into thin slices and the Oysters. Turn the Oyster mix-
ture out on to a dish, pour the salad dressing over, and serve.
(4) Put the strained liquor from two dozen Oysters into
a basin, and add 1 breakfast- cupful of warmed aspic jelly
and the shell and white of an egg beaten up. Turn ail
into a saucepan, boil it, and strain it through a flannel
jelly-bag. Dip a casserole-mould into cold water, drain
it, cover the bottom with the jelly mixture, and pack it
in ice. When the jelly is set, place some of the Oysters
on the top of it, about lin. or so apart. Cut a beetroot
lengthwise into slices, and with a tin cutter cut out some
fancy shapes; arrange them in the mould over the Oysters,
and continue in this way with layers of jelly, Oysters,
and beetroot until the mould is full, taking care to let
the jelly set well and firm every time it is added before
another lot is poured in. When the jelly is completed,
turn it out on to a cold dish, garnish with two or three
lettuces, cut in pieces, a little mustard and cress, poui-
over 2 table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, mixed with an equal
quantity of vinegar, and add salt and pepper to taste.
Oyster Sandwiches. — Chop 1 dozen Oysters, and put them
in a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls of cream, a lump of
butter about the size of a walnut, and 1 teaspoonful of
finely-grated breadcrumb or cracker-dust ; season with
salt and pepper, stir it over the fire, and let it simmer
for a few minutes. Add half the yolk of a raw egg,
or if preferred a small quantity of white of egg, and
remove the saucepan from the fire. Four the mixture
into a mould, leave it till cold and set, then turn it out ;
cut it into thin slices, and place them between slices of
1 >read -and - butter.
Oyster Sauce. — (1) Open a dozen Oysters, blanch and beard
them, reserving their liquor, which strain. Put 3oz. of
butter into a lined stewpan with 2oz. of Hour, and mix
them well over the fire, then stir in 1 teacupful of the
Oyster liquor. When boiling and thickened, cut the Oysters
into quarters, and put them in the sauce. Let the sauce
simmer gently at the side of the fire for five or ten
minutes, when it will be ready for serving.
(2) Partially boil the Oysters in their own liquor, then
strain and beard them, reserving the liquor. Put loz. of
butter in a stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir
them over the fire until mixed, then pour in the Oyster
liquor, and stir until boiling. Add as much milk as will
be required to make the sauce, also a blade of mace and
a bay-leaf tied together, pepper and salt to taste, and a
small quantity of cayenne pepper. Boil the sauce for a
few minutes, then put in the Oysters. When they are
quite hot remove the mace and bay-leaf, squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon, and serve the sauce.
(3) Put 1 breakfast-cupful of fish broth into a saucepan,
boil it, pour it over two dozen Oysters to shrink them,
then strain it back into the saucepan, and boil again. Skim
well and stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour made into a smooth
paste with a little water, then add lioz. of butter and
lastly the Oysters. When it begins to boil, pour it into a
sauceboat and serve very hot. Any stock may be used, but
fish stock is best.
(4) Open the required quantity of Oysters and boil them
up once in their own liquor, then take them out and put
into the liquor a blade or two of mace, and some cream and
melted-butter sauce ; then add the Oysters, let all come
to the boil, and continue boiling for nearly a minute. Pick
out the mace, and serve the sauce in a small tureen.
(5) Open eighteen large Oysters, put them in a saucepan
■with loz. of good butter, and place the pan on the stove.
Oysters — continued.
Cook for four minutes, remove half the liquid from the pau,
and add 1 pint of hot German sauce. Then with the
spatula mix all lightly together without letting it boil,
and serve.
Oyster Sauce for Boiled Turkey. — Put into a saucepan
over the fire 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and 2 piled table-
spoonfuls of butter, and stir them together until they bubble;
then gradually mix in the liquor from lqt. of Oysters and
enough broth from the turkey to make a sauce of the con-
sistency of cream. Season with salt and white pepper, and
let it boil for a moment; put the saucepan containing the
sauce into a pan of hot water, and place it on the back of
the fire to keep hot until wanted. Put in the Oysters, and
let them boil once; in the meantime dish the turkey,
pour a little of the Oyster sauce over it, and serve with
the remainder of the sauce in a boat.
Oyster Sausages. — (1) Scald 1 pint of Oysters until hard,
finely mince them, mix in lib. of finely-chopped lean beef
(sirloin for preference), add half the quantity of bread-
crumbs, season well with pepper, salt, and a small quantity
of ground mace, and bind it with beaten yolks of eggs.
Divide the mixture into moderate-sized quantities and shape
them like sausages. Melt a lump of butter in a flat stew-
pan, put in the sausages, and fry them nicely. When cooked,
drain the sausages, put them on a hot dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Mix together fifty Oysters, Alb. of cold veal or chicken,
2oz. of suet, all chopped line, 6oz. of sifted breadcrumb®
the beaten yolk of an egg, and a seasoning of powdered
mace, black pepper, and cayenne. Make this paste into
balls or rolls like sausages, brush them over with beaten
egg, roll them in sifted breadcrumbs, and fry them in boiling
lard. Serve rich brown gravy with them.
(3) Put three-dozen-and-a-half Oysters in a basin with
their liquor, rinse them well in it, take them out, and
mince rather coarsely. Put them into a basin with lOoz.
each of breadcrumbs and finely-shred beef-suet, sprinkle
over 1 saltspoonful each of salt and pepper, half the quantity
of cayenne, 1 teaspoonful of mace, and a little grated
nutmeg ; add two eggs, work them all together, and put
the mixture in a cool place for two or three hours. Take
it out in small quantities, roll them into shapes like
sausages, sprinkle with flour, put them into a saucepan
with a little butter, and fry to a light brown, or they may
lie plunged into boiling water for three minutes ; take
them out, drain, and when quite cold dip them into beaten
egg and breadcrumbs, and broil them.
Oysters Sautes. — Beard six dozen Oysters, and sprinkle
them with dried breadcrumbs, giving them a coating. Put
a small quantity of butter into a frying-pan over the fire,
and when it has melted place in the Oysters close together,
and fry them quickly to a light brown colour. Cover
them u ith a plate, turn the frying-pan upside-down, then
return the Oysters from the plate into the frying-pan and
fry the other side. This is required to be done quickly
and carefully so as not to break the Oysters apart. Put
them on a dish, and serve with a garnish of fried parsley
and quarters of lemon (see Fig. 98).
Oyster Souffle. — (1) Prepare a panada as follows : Put lib.
of freshly- baked breadcrumbs into a basin of warm water,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensits, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
81
Oysters — continued.
and let them soak for thirty minutes or so. Take them
out, squeeze, put them in a cloth and wring out all the
moisture ; place them in a saucepan with loz. of butter,
sprinkle with a little salt, and stir well over a moderate
fire until the mixture does not stick to the pan. Put two
dozen Oysters into a saucepan with their liquor, scald them,
take them out, drain, cut off the beards, and put them into
a mortar with l£oz. of the prepared panada, pound them
to a pulp and mix in the yolks of three eggs and loz. of
butter. When these are incorporated, pass them through a
fine sieve into a basin and stir in 1 teacupful of the Oyster
liquor and the same of well-whipped cream. Sprinkle in
cayenne and salt to taste, and add a little lemon-juice
and the whites of two eggs whipped to a white froth.
Stir lightly, pour it into a buttered souffle -mould, cover the
top with a piece of well-buttered paper, put the mould in
a steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, and steam for
thirty minutes. When done, turn the souffle out on to a
dish, pour some Oyster sauce over it, and serve.
(2) Put the flesh from two whitings into a mortar, pound
it to a pulp, and pass it through a fine sieve. Cut a dozen
blanched Oysters into quarters. Put loz. of butter into a
saucepan, and when it has melted mix in 2oz. of flour,
stir well, add 1 teacupful of strained Oyster liquor, and
continue stirring until the liquor becomes quite thick.
Pour this mixture into the whiting puree, turn it back
into the mortar, pound well, and add three eggs, one at a
time, and a little salt and cayenne to taste. When these
are mixed, add the Oysters and 1 teacupful of well-whipped
cream. Butter a souffle -mould, pour in the mixture, put
the mould in a steamer over a saucepan of boiling water,
and cook for thirty minutes. When done, turn it out on
to a dish, pour over some Oyster sauce, and serve.
Oyster Soup. — (1) Blanch two or three dozen Oysters in
their own liquor, beard them, and cut them into small
pieces. Put 2oz. of butter in a saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour and mix them well over the fire, then
stir in as much fish stock as will make the required
quantity of soup. Continue stirring until boiling, then
put in the Oysters and their liquor, previously strained,
add a moderate quantity of minced parsley, salt and
pepper to taste, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat the
yolks of two eggs in with the juice of half a lemon and
strain them, move the soup off' the fire, and stir in the
beaten eggs. Pour it into a soup- tureen and serve with
a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
(2) Put 3 pints each of water and milk in a lined
saucepan on the fire ; finely crush |lb. of soda biscuits
and add them to the milk-and-water; when it boils, put
in also 1 pint of finely-chopped Oysters. Boil the soup
until it is well flavoured with the Oysters, then add 3
pints of whole Oysters and 4oz. of butter, season to taste
with salt and pepper, let the soup simmer gently for ten
minutes longer, then turn it into a soup-tureen and serve
while very hot.
(3) Put 31b. of knuckle of veal or leg of lamb in a
saucepan with 3qts. of water and a lump of salt, and let
it simmer gently for three liours. At the end of that
time skim the soup and strain it into the saucepan with
lqt. of Oysters that have been freed of their beards and
2 breakfast-cupfuls of crushed biscuits ; season to taste
with salt and pepper, and boil it up again. Then add
l|oz. of butter in small pieces, pour the soup into a soup-
tureen, and serve while very hot.
(4) Wash lqt. of Oysters in water to free them of grit,
put them into a saucepan with two slices of bacon cut
into small pieces, and pour over the strained Oyster liquor.
Add a little parsley, thyme, and chopped onions, with salt
and pepper to taste, boil slowly, and when nearly done,
stir in loz. of butter rolled in flour and 1 teacupful of
cream. Turn the soup out into a soup-tureen, and serve.
(5) Put lqt. of stock in a saucepan on the fire and the
same quantity of milk in another saucepan. Place lqt. of
Oysters in a colander over a third saucepan, let them
drain, and when the stock boils pour a little over the
Oysters, stir them well in it, and then let it drain off.
Put the pan containing the Oyster liquor on the fire, and
when the liquor boils skim, and strain it into the stock.
Oysters — continued.
Add the Oysters to the stock, boil until they begin to
shrink, and then remove the pan to the side of the fire
and stir in a little more than 2 table-spoonfuls of crushed
crackers, 1 teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and lastly
the quart of boiling milk. Pour the soup at once into
a soup-tureen, and serve with a little chopped parsley
sprinkled over the top.
(6) Put 2 table-spoonfuls of cornflour into a basin and
work it to a smooth paste with a little milk. Put 1 pint
of white stock into a saucepan with 1 teacupful of cream,
salt and pepper to taste, add the cornflour, and put the
pan on the side of the fire. As soon as the stock com-
mences to simmer throw in a dozen large Oysters with
their liquor and simmer gently for a few minutes, when
it will be done and ready for use.
(7) Prepare 2qts. of fish stock with flounders or eels,
and flavour it with mace, parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and an onion stuck with three cloves. Strain and beard
six dozen Oysters ; put the yolks of ten hard-boiled eggs
in a mortar and pound them to a smooth paste. Strain the
fish stock, and pour it in a saucepan with the strained
liquor of the Oysters and the pounded yolks. Boil the
soup gently for half-an-liour, then put in the Oysters and
the well-beaten yolks of six raw eggs ; stir quickly till
smooth, but do not let it boil again. Turn the soup into
a soup-tureen, and serve while very hot.
(8) Boil lgall. of Oysters in their liquor until quite done.
Add lqt. of rich milk, the yolks of four eggs, 2 good
table-spoonfuls of butter, and 1 table-spoonful of flour, all
mixed well together, but in this order : first the milk, then,
after beating the eggs, add a little of the hot liquor to them
gradually, and stir them rapidly into the soup ; l&stly add
the butter and seasoning, such as plain pepper and salt, to
taste, celery sal-t, marjoram, and thyme or mace and a
bit of onion may be used for flavouring.
(9) Put two dozen Oysters at the bottom of a soup-
tureen, and dust them over thickly with dried parsley and
powdered cracknels. Prepare the soup as follows : Put
lgall. of white broth into a saucepan, add a little vege-
table stock, bring it to the boil, thicken with potato-flour
moistened with milk, stir in a little each of cayenne and
powdered mace, boil for two or three minutes longer, turn
the soup at once into the tureen, and serve.
(10) Put the crumb of four French rolls in a saucepan
of water over the fire with four onions peeled and cut up
small, 1 teaspoonful of whole white pepper, and three or
four blades of mace. Boil the bread till the onions are
soft, then pick out the spices, rub the bread and onions
through a hair sieve, and put it with 3qts. of well-seasoned
veal stock into a saucepan over the fire. Rub 1 table-
spoonful of flour into 3oz. of butter, put it into a small
bowl, and blend it with a little of the soup taken out of
the saucepan (about 1 breakfast-cupful will be enough),
and then stir it into the soup over the fire ; when it has
boiled for ten or twelve minutes, add fifty Oysters with
their liquor and let them boil slowly for a-quarter-of-an-
hour. Taste the soup, and if the liquor of the Oysters
has not made it salt enough, add salt to it. Pour it into
a tureen, and serve.
(11) Cut about 2oz. of fat pork into small squares and
fry them until lightly browned. Put 2oz. of butter into
a stewpan with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour and stir them
over the fire until mixed ; pour in slowly 1 qt. of milk,
add the pieces of pork, and season to taste with salt,
pepper, and, if liked, a few drops of essence of anchovies.
Stir the soup over the fire until boiling and thickened,
then put in two dozen Oysters and keep them simmering
for a minute or two. Turn the soup into a soup-tureen,
and serve with a plate of croutons fried in butter.
(12) Free lqt. of Oysters from bits of shell, and strain off
their liquor ; add to the liquor 1 pint of milk and suffi-
cient water to increase the quantity to about 2qts., place
the milk-and-Oyster liquor over the fire, season it with
salt and white or red pepper, let it boil for a moment,
and remove any scum that may rise. Meantime, beat four
eggs till smooth together with h pint of milk, and strain
them. After the scum has all been removed from the soup,
put into it the Oysters and the eggs-and-milk, and stir
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
82
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
constantly until it begins to thicken, but do not let it boil
or the eggs will curdle ; as soon as it is smooth and scalding
hot, serve it. The Oysters need so little cooking that
the heat of the scalding broth is sufficient for the purpose.
Oyster-and-Steak Radeau. — Make a seasoning or stuffing
with 2oz. of breadcrumbs, 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped
parsley, a little chopped mixed herbs, and a little pepper
and salt; stir all these well together. Beat Joz. of butter
to a cream, and mix the breadcrumbs, &c., with it. Beat flat
a tender veal steak not cut too thick, spread the season-
ing over it, or, if preferred, put a layer of bearded Oysters
on it. Roll up the steak, bind it evenly with twine, put
it into a pie-dish, pour round 1 breakfast -cupful of boil-
ing water, cover it, put it hi the oven, and bake for forty
minutes, basting frequently. Take off the cover a short
time before it is done to let it brown, remove the twine,
thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and serve
very hot.
Oyster Toast. — (1) Chop one-dozen-and-a-half Oysters and
three boned and scraped anchovies, and put them into a
saucepan with loz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, the
liquor from the Oysters, and salt and pepper to taste.
Put the pan at the side of the fire, and simmer the con-
tents gently for a few minutes. Have ready four slices of
bread fried in butter, spread the mixture over them,
arrange them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve
with a garnish of fried parsley. These must be served
very hot.
(2) Put half-a-dozen Oysters in a mortar after they
have been bearded and cleaned, and pound them to a
pulp. Add a little cream, salt (if required) and pepper to
taste, and form the mixture into a paste. Have ready
some slices .of toast, spread the mixture over them, and
warm them in a moderate oven for a few minutes. Take
them out when done, arrange on a dish, sprinkle a little
finely-minced lemon-peel over, and serve.
(3) Cut some slices of bread about Jin. thick, or rather
thinner, trim off the crasts, and cut the slices into pieces
large enough to hold an Oyster ; fry the bread, then cut
some very thin rashers of bacon the same size, and fry
them lightly. Put the Oysters on a gridiron in their
shells, and place them over the fire till hot through.
Spread the pieces of fried bread with anchovy paste, sprinkle
over a very little cayenne, then lay on each a piece of
fried bacon, and on the bacon one of the warmed or roasted
Oysters sprinkled with a very little cayenne ; pour over
each a little of the Oyster liquor, and serve hot.
Oysters with Villeroy Sauce. — Put a few scalded Oysters
into a saucepan with some thick villeroy sauce, and warm
them thoroughly. Take them out singly, being careful
that they are well covered with the sauce, dip them into
breadcrumbs, then into well-beaten egg, and lastly into
breadcrumbs again ; put them into a frying-pan with a little
butter, fry, take them out when done, drain off' the fat,
arrange them on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a
garnish of fried parsley.
Oyster Vol-au-Vent. — Put the liquor and beards of three
dozen Oysters into a saucepan, and add a little pepper,
cayenne, and the very finely-chopped rind and strained
juice of half a lemon. Put the pan on the fire, boil up
the liquor, and tliieken with 3oz. of butter rubbed into 2
table-spoonfuls of dried flour. Continue to boil until the
liquor is reduced to 1 teacupful, strain it into another
saucepan, add the Oysters, place the pan at the side of the
fire, and simmer gently for five or six minutes, then stir
in 1 teacupful of cream, and keep the mixture warm.
Prepare a paste as follows : Rub 12oz. of butter into an equal
quantity of flour, and mix in the juice of a lemon added
to an egg beaten up in 1 teacupful of water. Make these
into a paste, handling it as little as possible, turn it out
on to a WTell floured bqard, and roll it out to ljin. in
thickness. Cut it with a vol-au-vent tin cutter to take
off the rough edges, make it the required shape, cut round
the top Jin. from the edge and Jin. deep, and bake the
vol-au-vent in a hot oven for forty-five minutes. When
done, carefully take out the centre, remove the soft under-
done paste, and fill it up with the Oyster mixture. Arrange
Oysters — continued.
the vol-au-vent on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve
with a garnish of fried parsley.
Pickled Oysters. — (1) Thoroughly cleanse and beard four
dozen Oysters, put them into a saucepan, strain their
liquor over them, season well with salt, allspice, cloves,
and mace, and boil for a few minutes. When plump,
pour \ pint of vinegar over the Oysters, boil them up
again, turn them into earthenware jars, and leave until
cold ; then cover each jar with stout paper, tie down, and
put them in a dry cupboard for use.
(2) Open as many large Oysters as will fill a Jgall. jar,
wash them well, put them in a stewpan, and strain their
liquor over them ; place the pan over the fire until the
liquor is on the point of boiling, then take out the Oysters
and lay them on a dish to cool. Put some mace and
peppercorns in moderate quantities into the liquor, and
boil for about half-an-hour, keeping it well skimmed, then
leave it until quite cold. Put the Oysters in a jar, pour
over them 1 pint of white wine and J pint of the best
French vinegar, strain in as much of the liquor as will
cover them, and close the jar well, seeing that it is
perfectly air-tight.
(3) Wash fifty large Oysters in their own liquor, take
them out, and dry them. Strain the liquor, add salt to
taste, 2 teaspoonfuls of pepper, two blades of mace, 3
table-spoonfuls of sherry, and 4 table-spoonfuls of vinegar,
and put the Oysters into this pickle.
(4) Put some fine large Oysters with their own liquor
into a stewpan over a gentle fire, add a lump of butter,
simmer, and stir them often to prevent burning. When
plump and white, take the Oysters out of the liquor, and
lay them on a thickly-folded cloth till cool. Mix an equal
quantity of the best vinegar with the liquor of the Oysters,
and make it hot. Put a layer of the Oysters at the
bottom of a stone jar, then several cloves, allspice, and
whole peppers, and J teaspoonful of ground mace ; then
another layer of Oysters and spices, and proceed in this
way until all the Oysters are pul in. Pour the prepared
liquor over the Oysters, and cover the jar. On the
following day they will be ready for use. If kept in a
cold place, they will remain good for a month ; or, put
them into bottles or glass jars, pour a small quantity of
sweet-oil over each, cork and seal the bottles or jars so
that they are perfectly air-tight, and the Oysters may be
relied upon for at least a year.
(5) Put lqt. of Oysters in their own liquor in a pan
over the fire and let them cook till the edges curl up;
then strain them at once, put them into cold water, let
them remain in it for ten minutes, and spread them on
a board to drain, sprinkling with salt. Put half the
Oyster liquor, an equal quantity of vinegar, a red-pepper
pod (or if very small, two), 2 drachms of mace, and
Joz. of cloves in a saucepan over the fire, let this mixture
boil up once, pour it into a bowl, and let it stand till
perfectly cold; just before taking this liquor from the fire
drop into it a quarter of a lemon cut into very thin slices.
When the liquor is cold, put the Oysters into a jar, pour it
over them, and cover down air-tight.
(6) To lgall. of Oysters allow 1 pint of vinegar, two
grated nutmegs, eight blades of mace, three dozen cloves,
one-dozen-and-a-half peppers, J saltspoonful of cayenne, and
a lemon and a half. Put the Oysters in hot water, scald
them, and, when hot through, drop them into cold water
to plump, then drain them through a colander. Take ljqts.
of the liquor, let it boil, skim it well, then add the
seasoning. Put the Oysters hi a jar, and pour the liquor
over them hot.
Scalloped Oysters.— (1) Strain the Oyster liquor, rinse
the Oysters in it, then plump and beard them. Measure
the liquor, and add to it an equal quantity of rich white
sauce ; if this does not thicken it sufficiently add 1 tea-
spoonful of flour rubbed into a small piece of butter,
stir over the fire till pretty hot, or if the flour-and-butter
is added stir till it boils and boil for ten minutes, stirring
occasionally. Put in the Oysters, and keep them nearly
simmering for three or four minutes, then put them into
their shells with a little of the sauce, put a layer of
sifted breadcrumbs on them, pour over this a little clarified
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
83
Oysters —continued.
butter, and brown them before the fire or with a sala-
mander.
(2) Put the liquor of three dozen Oysters in a saucepan with
1 teacupful of cream, 1 wineglassful of wine, and the
juice of half-a-lemon ; season the sauce with salt, pepper,
and grated nutmeg, and mix in 1 table-spoonful of flour
that has been worked with loz. of butter. Place the sauce
over the fire, and stir until it boils and is very thick. Scald
the Oysters in boiling water, then drain them, remove their
beards, and put them in the sauce; move it to the side of
the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Fill
scallop shells with the Oysters, strew them with finely-
grated breadcrumb and Parmesan cheese, and baste them
Fig. 99. Scalloped Oysters.
with a few table-spoonfuls of warmed butter. Put the
shells in a brisk oven, or brown them under a salamander.
When ready, arrange them on a folded napkin or an orna-
mental dish-paper on a dish (see Fig. 99), and serve.
(3) Take as many scallop shells as there are people to
be served, wash them well, and wipe dry. In the bottom
of these shells put a layer of Oysters, cover them with
sifted breadcrumbs, sprinkle the breadcrumbs with pepper
and celery salt, and stick over them little pieces of butter ;
over this put another layer of Oysters, covering them as
before with sifted breadcrumbs, sprinkling them with pepper
and celery salt, and sticking butter over them. Put the
shells into a well-heated oven, and bake the Oysters till
the tops are nicely browned. Serve hot.
(4) Loosen the Oysters from the shells, sprinkle the
deep half-shell with breadcrumbs, replace the Oyster, cover
it with breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven. When
nearly done pour 1 teaspoonful of warmed butter over
each, take them out when cooked, put them on a dish,
and serve.
(5) Put eight dozen Oysters into a saucepan with their
liquor and toss the pan over the fire for a few minutes to
shrink them. Have ready sixteen well-buttered scallop
shells or silver ones in imitation if preferred, sprinkle them
with bread and cracker-crumbs mixed in equal proportions,
place half-a-dozen Oysters in each, and cover them with
more crumbs, spreading them evenly. Strain the Oyster
liquor into a basin, add fib. of butter, 1 pint of milk, and
salt and pepper to taste; pour it over the crumbs, and
bake the scallops in a cool oven until done and of a light
brown colour. Place them on a dish, and serve.
(6) Chop a little parsley very fine, and, together with a
small quantity of pepper, mash or rub it into about Hoz.
of butter, then warm it sufficiently to melt it. Open some
Oysters, roll each one in this melted butter, lay it in the
deepest of its shells, stand the shells in a baking-pan, add
a few drops of lemon-juice to the Oyster in each shell,
and cover until sifted breadcrumbs. Bake them in a quick
oven, and serve in the shells.
_ (7) Open about two dozen Oysters, put them with their
liquor into a stewpan and partially boil them, then drain,
beard, and cut them in halves. Finely chop half-a-dozen
button-mushrooms and two shallots, put them into a stew-
pan with a good-sized lump of butter, dredge lightly with
flour, salt, and pepper, and stir them over the fire for a
few minutes without browning. Pour in sufficient white
wine and clear stock in equal portions to make the sauce,
and boil for fifteen minutes. Next put the Oysters in the
sauce and toss them over the fire for two minutes or so.
Turn the mixture into scallop shells, cover it with finely
Oysters — continued.
grated breadcrumb, and put a small lump of butter on
the top of each. Place the shells in the oven until the
Oysters are nicely browned on the top, then put them on
a hot dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve.
(8) Put 4oz. of sardine butter in a saucepan, melt it,
then put in 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped
onions and any kind of herbs; stir these ingredients
over the fire until cooked, then put in two dozen freshly-
opened Oysters with their liquor, and 1 breakfast-cup-
ful of cream, season with salt and pepper, and stir the
whole over the fire for a few minutes. Turn the mixture
into a dish that will bear the heat of the oven, strew over
plenty of breadcrumbs, and put the dish in a quick oven
until the Oysters are lightly browned. When cooked, serve
the Oysters while very hot in the dish in which they were
cooked.
Spiced Oysters. — Take a hundred fresh Oysters, put them
into a large earthenware pipkin together with their own
liquor strained, half a nutmeg grated, eighteen cloves,
four blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, a very little
cayenne pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 2 table-spoonfuls
of strong vinegar, and stir all these well together with a
wooden spoon. Put them in a moderately- heated stove or
over a slow fire ; take them from the fire several times,
and stir them thoroughly ; as soon as they come to the boil
pour them into a pan and let them stand all night in a
cool place. They will be ready for eating next day.
Steamed Oysters. — Open and drain the required quantity
of Oysters, lay them in a steamer, which place over a sauce-
pan of boiling water, cover them with a pjlate, and cook
for ten minutes. When ready, place the Oysters on a
very hot dish, garnish with some small croutons of brown
bread fried in butter and drained, and a few drops of
lemon or vinegar poured over them. Dust lightly with
salt and pepper, and serve.
Stewed Oysters. — (1) Open the shells of one dozen or so
Oysters, take them out carefully, and wash them in their own
liquor until perfectly free from grit and pieces of shell ; put
them into a saucepan, strain the liquor twice, pour it over
them, place the pan at the side of the fire, and let them
simmer gently for a few minutes until done. Take them out
with a slice or skimmer, and put them on a dish in a slow
oven to keep warm ; add to the liquor 1 teacupful of cream,
and salt and cayenne to taste. Place the pan on the fire,
and when the liquor boils add 2oz. of butter worked up
with 1 teaspoonful of flour and continue to stir until they
are all thoroughly mixed. Put in the Oysters, warm
them up without boiling, remove the pan from the fire,
and stir in a little lemon-juice. Have ready some pieces
of bread fried in butter, arrange them on a dish, put the
Oysters on them, pour over the liquor, and serve very hot.
(2) Put a small quantity of butter into a saucepan with
a little flour, and when melted add the required number
of Oysters ; warm them at the side of the fire, and when
firm and set pour in a little of their liquor well strained
and slightly warmed. Then add a seasoning of chopped
mushrooms, carrots, and onions, a few green peas and
laurel-leaves, a little thyme, and salt and pepper to taste.
When the Oysters are done they should be taken out and
kept hot while the remainder of the ingredients are being
cooked. When all are done, put the Oysters on a dish,
pour over the mushroom mixture, and serve very hot.
(3) Put l pint of milk into a saucepan and thicken it
with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour and loz. of butter. When
the butter has dissolved, put in a dozen or so bearded and
well-washed Oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper to
taste, and stew gently at the side of the fire for thirty
minutes. Turn the stew out on to a dish when done,
and serve very hot with a garnish of small pieces of the
crumb of bread dipped in lemon-juice and fried in butter
to a light brown.
(4) Strain the liquor of some Oysters, put it in a stew-
pan over the fire with some sifted breadcrumbs, a glass
of white wine, and a seasoning of pepper and nutmeg, let
it boil up, and pour it boiling over the Oysters ; cover
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads.
84
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Oysters — continued.
them and let them remain in the hot liquor for a few
minutes. Have ready a hot deep dish with some sippets
of toasted bread at the bottom and round the sides, pour
the Oysters and liquor on the toast, and serve hot.
(5) Put lqt. of Oysters into a saucepan, strain their
liquor, and put it in with them ; add one bruised anchovy,
a seasoning of salt, a little mace, white pepper, and a
bunch of sweet herbs, and let all stew together for a-
quarter-of-an-hour. Then pick out the mace and the bunch
of sweet herbs, and add 4oz. of butter with 1 well-lieaped
table-spoonful of flour rubbed into it, and stew the Oysters
for ten minutes longer. Serve garnished with toasted
bread and slices of lemon.
(6) Mix J table-spoonful of cornflour smoothly with 1
pint of milk, pour it into a lined stewpan with loz. of
butter in small pieces, and stir it over the fire with a
wooden spoon until boiling; then season to taste, put in
a dozen Oysters, and let it simmer at the side of the fire
for half-an-liour. Cut some small crohtons of bread, squeeze
lemon-juice over them, and let them soak for a few minutes.
Put a piece of lard or butter in a flat stewpan, and when
boiling add the pieces of bread and fry them until nicely
browned, then drain. When cooked turn the Oysters on
to a hot dish, garnish with the bread, and serve.
(7) Open two or three dozen fine Oysters, beard them,
put them with their liquor into a stewpan, add loz. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 2 table-spoonfuls of
chopped heart of celery, 1 table-spoonful of mushroom
ketchup, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Put
the lid on the stewpan, and boil the Oysters gently at
the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not over-
cook them or they will shrivel up. When cooked, turn
them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(8) Open two dozen Oysters, strain their liquor into a
stewpan, and place it over the fire ; when boiling, skim it,
mix in 1 breakfast-cupful of cream, and flavour to
taste with salt and a small quantity of cayenne pepper.
Put the Oysters in the sauce, and let them simmer at the
edge of the fire for ten minutes. Cut three or four thin
slices of bread, trim off all the crusts, and toast the slices.
Butter the toast, lay it on a hot dish, put a few of the
Oysters on each slice, pour the sauce round them, and
serve.
(9) Put about Jib. of butter in a stewpan and place it
over the fire ; when it has melted put in half-a-dozen
large Oysters with their liquor, and shake the stewpan
about until the Oysters are warmed through. Squeeze in
the juice of a lemon, put the Oysters on a hot dish,
garnish with sippets of toast, and serve.
(10) Open some Oysters, strain the liquor, put it into
a saucepan over the fire, add sifted breadcrumbs to
thicken it, and season to taste with a little white pepper
and grated nutmeg. Put the Oysters into the liquor, add
a wineglassful of white wine to every dozen Oysters, and
stew them for seven or eight minutes. Have some slices
of toast trimmed and buttered, and when the Oysters are
done dip these pieces of toast in the liquor and arrange
them round the edge of a hot dish; pour into the centre
of the dish the stewed Oysters and liquor, and serve.
(11) Take the requisite quantity of Oysters out of their
shells; pour 1 teacupful of olive oil into a stewpan, set it
over the fire till hot, then put in 1 teacupful of chopped
parsley ; lay the Oysters on the top, pour in sufficient
water to cover them, and boil for fifteen minutes. Put
the yolks of four eggs into a saucepan with 1 teacupful of
the Oyster liquor and the juice of one lemon ; beat them
well, then stir until a wooden spoon over a slow fire until
the eggs are thick, but they must not boil. Drain the
Oysters, lay them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over
them, and serve.
Stewed Oysters a la Baltimore. — Open neatly thirty-six
medium-sized fresh (Rockaway) Oysters, place them in a
saucepan without their liquor, and add 1 oz. of good butter ;
cover the pan, put it on the stove, and cook the Oysters
for two minutes, then add 1 wineglassful of good Madeira
wine and a very little cayenne pepper, cook together for
two minutes longer, and add 1 gill each of Spanish sauce
and half-glaze. Stir thoroughly until boiling, and just
Oysters — continued.
before serving squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add Joz. of
butter and 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and
serve immediately in a hot tureen.
OYSTER-CRABS. — See Crabs.
OYSTER-PLANT.— A plant known to botanists as
Mertensia maritima, the root of which when cooked
somewhat resembles the oyster in taste. It grows very
freely in America, and can be prepared in any of the
following styles :
Boiled Oyster-Plant. — Scrape a bunch of tender Oyster-
plant, putting the roots as they are scraped into cold water
to which a little vinegar has been added. Cut the Oyster-
plant into pieces, put it in a saucepan of boiling salted
water over the fire, and boil for about twenty minutes, or
until tender ; then drain, add 1 table-spoonful of butter,
cream enough to cover it, and a seasoning of salt and
white pepper, and serve it as soon as the cream is hot.
The cream may be omitted if not desired.
Pried Oyster-Plant. — Cook a bunch of Oyster-plant as
for Oyster- plant A la Roulette, and when done put
it in a dish ; season with \ pinch each of salt and pepper
and 1 table-spoonful of vinegar, dip it well in frying-
batter, and fry it in very hot fat for five minutes, separat-
ing the pieces with a spoon. Lift them up with a skimmer,
drain on a cloth, sprinkle over them a very little salt,
and serve on a folded napkin, decorating witli a little
fried parsley.
Oyster-Plant a la Poulette. — Scrape a good-sized bunch
of fine, fresh Oyster plant, plunge it at once into acidulated
water, and when well washed, drain, and cut it into 2m.
pieces. Place them in a saucepan and boil in plenty
of water, adding 2 pinches of salt, 2 table-spoonfuls of
vinegar, and the same quantity of diluted flour. After
forty minutes, or as soon as they bend to the finger, they
are done. Lift them out, drain well, and serve with
1 pint of hot poulette sauce poured over them.
Oyster-Plant Saute. — Scrape a large bunch of fine Oyster-
plant, plunge it into cold water containing 2 table-spoon-
fuls of vinegar, so as to prevent it turning black, take it
from the water, drain, and cut it lengthwise into 2in.
pieces. Place them in a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls
each of vinegar and flour, mix well, cover with plenty of
cold water and a handful of salt, put the lid on, and let
them boil slowly for forty minutes. Then drain, put
them into a saute -pan with ljoz. of butter, and season
with J pinch of pepper, the juice of half-a-lemon, and
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Heat well for five minutes,
tossing occasionally, then place them in a deep hot dish,
and serve.
FACHWAI. — A kind of beer made in Bengal, from
rice or other grain. It is not generally consumed by
Europeans.
FADDY. — The name given by the East Indians to
unhusked rice.
FAELA. — A favourite Spanish dish containing the
usual oil and garlic. It is made as follows :
Put 1 breakfast-cupful of olive oil into a saucepan,
make it hot over the fire, and stir in lib. of well- washed
and dried rice, one or two cloves of garlic, a little chopped
parsley, an onion in pieces, two or three toasted green
chillies, the pulp of eight or nine large tomatoes, and a
seasoning of salt. The chillies should be peeled and cut
into strips. Cut Jib. or so of cooked ham in small squares,
and cut off the fillets of a fowl; put these in the sauce-
pan with the rice, moisten with a little weak stock or
broth, and cook slowly until the rice is done, and not
pulpy but in grains. An earthenware dish (without a
cover) that will stand the heat of the fire and can be
sent to table is the best for this.
PAGANINI TARTLETS. — See Tartlets.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
85
PAILS. — Two or three of these are very useful in a
kitchen ; those made of galvanised iron are better than
those made of wood, being more easily cleaned and kept
clean.
PAIN. — Literally the French for bread, but used also
to denominate a kind of cake, or cheese, of meat, fruit,
vegetables, &c.
PAKE. — A Grecian alcoholic liquor obtained from the
fruit of Arbutus Uneclo.
PALATES. — See Ox-Palates.
PALESTINE SOUP.— This name is given in error
to a soup made with Jerusalem artichokes, the term
“ Jerusalem ” being a corruption of Girasole, and not in
anywise connected with the famous city of Palestine.
PALETTE-KNIVES— These are made in different
sizes and for different purposes. To the confectioner
r
v
Fig. 100. Palette-knife (Mathews and Son).
they are of great use for mixing and working sugar.
See Fig. 100.
PALM OIL. — An oil obtained from the fruit of
Fla'eis guineensis. In Western Africa, under the name of
palm butter, it enters largely into the composition of
savoury dishes. According to Simmonds, the natives
scoop up the fluid oil from the cooking-pot in a gourd-
shell, and drink it in large draughts in the form of soup, with
snails or monkey-flesh. Every well-to-do man drinks from
51b. to 81b. of this butter for his breakfast, as it is con-
sidered most wholesome and fattening. It is not used
for cooking amongst civilised people.
PALM WINES. — From all kinds of palms, without
exception, some sort of alcoholic liquor can be prepared ;
and as these Palms extend throughout America, Africa,
Asia, and many parts of Europe, the manufacture of
drinks from them is of a very extensive and impor-
tant character. The juice which flows from the sapped
Palm is known, when fermented, as tode. After a
second fermentation of the Palm sap a kind of leaven
or yeast, known as ragi, is produced, which is used
for making cakes and bread. Arrack is made by
the distillation of Palm Wine. In Bombay punch
is made from the cocoanut Palm, qualified with spices
and . sugar, . after a Portuguese receipt. It is called
Queimado, is drank hot, and is considered an excellent
remedy for a cold.
PANADA (TV. Panade; Gcr. Brodum ; Ital. Panata).
-A Spanish word derived from the Latin — pcinis bread,
the original Panada or Panado being simply bread boiled
in water to a pulp. It is now used by all cooks to give
consistency to forcemeats, and is generally flavoured,
seasoned, or sweetened. It may be prepared as follows :
(1) Soak in warm water the fine crumb of bread. When it
is quite soft and moist, put it in a cloth and wring out the
water, then put it into a saucepan with a lump of butter
and a little salt, and beat it smooth and dry over a very
slow fire, taking care that it does not brown. Put it aside
to cool. Instead of butter, milk may be used, or a little
white broth.
(2) Breadcrumb Panada may be prepared with wheat-
flour or rice-meal, the latter being preferable, as follows:
Pour into a small stewpan 1 glassful of water and let it
boil ; immediately take it off the fire, and introduce into it
the requisite quantity of meal to make a rather consistent
batter. The Panada being thickened, dry it on the fire till
it can disengage itself from the stewpan ; then pour it into
a kitchen-basin and let it cool, previous to employing it.
Panada — continued.
(3) To 2 table-spoonfuls of breadcrumbs add 2 table-
spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and 1 pint of
cold water. Put this on the stove and let it boil for five
minutes; then add 2 wineglassfuls of wine, and serve
directly.
(4) Put one sardine and two boned anchovies into a
mortar and pound them well with a little minced parsley
and cayenne. Turn the mixture on to a plate, and with
a knife or spatula work in 2oz. of butter. Form the paste
into a roll or pat, and keep it on the ice until wanted.
Serve on crisp dry toast.
(5) Take a quart saucepan, pour in about § breakfast-
cupful of water, and put it on the fire to boil ; add loz.
of butter, and when the liquor boils sift in 4oz. of flour
and continue stirring until it becomes a smooth paste,
when it is ready for use.
PANCAKES ( Fr . Crepes ; Gcr. Pfannekuchen). — It
may be said that what the omelet is to the French cook
the Pancake is to the Englishman; the difference in pre-
paration being very slight, unless, as in the case of the
omelet, it happens to be complicated by various additions
and modifications. The term is derived from the pan in
which they are made, with the addition of the word cake,
and they are loosely described as thin cakes of batter
fried in a pan or on a griddle. As will be seen by the
following receipts, considerable divergencies from the
original have been invented and prescribed.
Baked Pancakes. — (1) Mix 2oz. of flour with 2oz. of warmed
butter, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, 4 pint of warmed milk,
four eggs, and a small quantity of salt, and stir the
mixture until quite smooth. Put about Joz. of butter into
a frying-pan and melt it ; then pour in a small quantity
of the batter, letting it spread hi a thin layer over the
bottom of the pan ; fry until browned on one side, then
turn it over quickly and brown the other side. When
all the batter is cooked, roll up the Pancakes and cut
them into strips. Rub a piece of butter over a hot dish,
lay the strips of Pancakes on it, dust over 1 saltspoonful of
salt and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, baste with a
few table-spoonfuls of hot gravy or broth, and put them
in the oven for ten minutes. Serve while very hot in
the dish hi which they were cooked.
(2) Beat 2oz. of flour with two eggs until it is quite
smooth. Put £ pint of milk in a saucepan with 2oz. of
loaf sugar and 2oz. of butter, and place it over the fire
until hot ; then stir it gradually in with the beaten eggs
and flour, mixing them quite smooth. Butter a few small
saucers, pour the mixture into them, and bake in a brisk
oven for twenty minutes. Make some raspberry or straw-
berry jam hot, and when the Pancakes are cooked mask
half of them with it, and cover them with the remainder.
Put the Pancakes on a hot dish that has been garnished
with a fancy dish-paper, sift caster sugar over, and
serve.
Currant Pancakes.— Stir in Jib. of washed and dried
grocer’s currants to every pint of any plain pancake batter.
Serve with butter, lemons, and sugar.
New England Pancakes. — Stir slowly into 1 pint of cream
5 table-spoonfuls of dried, sifted flour. Beat up the yolks
of seven new-laid eggs and the whites of four, season these
with 1 teaspoonful of salt, and stir them into the flour
and cream, working all thoroughly together. Have ready
a very clean frying-pan, and in this heat almost to smoking
1 table-spoonful of fresh butter ; pour in a thin layer of
the batter, and turn when set. Serve these piled one on the
other with caster sugar and powdered cinnamon over each.
Pancakes. — (1) Mix 2 teaspoonfuls of flour with 1 pinch of
salt. Beat the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, add a
few drops of orange-flower water, and then stir them in
with the flour. Butter a small omelet-pan, put in a
small quantity of the batter, and cook it over the fire for
a minute or two ; then turn and cook the other side.
Roll up the Pancake, put it on a hot dish, and keep
near the fire till all are made. Arrange the Pancakes
on an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, sprinkle with
a little sugar, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
86
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pancakes — continued.
(2) Take 1 pint each of thick and thin milk, or lqt. of
sour milk ; add a little salt, 1 teaspoonful of ammonia,
and sufficient flour to make a hatter. The thinner the batter
more tender the Pancakes will he, when cooked. Half a
teacupful of cream improves them. Put 1 spoonful at a
time into a pan of hot butter, and fry. Butter while hot, and
serve with sugar, honey, or molasses. A sauce made by
mixing 1 teacupful of cream with 1 table-spoonful of sugar
and J teaspoonful of ground ginger, and served with the
Pancakes, is an improvement.
(3) Mix smoothly with 1 pint of fresh milk a sufficient
quantity of flour to make a moderately thick batter, and
strain it through a fine sieve. Beat four eggs well to-
gether with 1 wineglassful of pale brandy, mix them with
the batter, and add 1 teaspoonful of powdered ginger, a
small quantity of grated nutmeg, and 1 saltspoonful of
salt. Beat the whole well together for a few minutes, then
fry in small quantities in boiling butter. As the Pan-
cakes are cooked, drain and roll them, put them on a
hot dish over which lias been spread a fancy dish-paper,
dust with caster sugar, and serve.
(4) Break three eggs in a basin and whip them together
with 3 heaped table-spoonfuls of flour ; then beat in J
wineglassful of orange-flower water and 1 scant table-
spoonful each of olive oil and pale brandy, adding 1 salt-
spoonful of salt ; next stir in gradually a sufficient quantity
of milk to bring the batter to the proper consistency. Put
a large piece of butter or lard in a frying-pan, and when
it melts fry the batter in it in small quantities. As the
Pancakes are cooked, drain, roll, and pile them on a dish
over which has been spread a fancy dish -paper, and serve
witli sugar.
(5) Break four eggs into a large basin and beat them
together with 1 table-spoonful of yeast, 1 wineglassful of
brandy, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and a little powdered cin-
namon. Mix in another basin as much flour and milk as
will bring the whole to the proper consistency. When
quite smooth, stir in the other ingredients, cover with a
cloth, and set it in a warm place to work for three or
four hours. When ready to serve, fry the batter in small
quantities in a little butter. Arrange the Pancakes on a
hot dish, sprinkle with caster sugar, and serve with some
oranges cut in halves on a separate plate.
(6) Beat four eggs together with 1 teacupful of olive
oil, J teacupful of thick cream, and 1 pinch of salt. Put
Jib. of sifted flour into a basin, make a hollow in the
centre, then gradually mix in the beaten eggs, stirring
with a wooden spoon till it forms a smooth paste, with-
out being too consistent, and rather light; then add 1
wineglassful of brandy. Put 1 table-spoonful of clarified
butter into a Pancake-pan, make it hot, then put in 2
table-spoonfuls of the paste. Spread the paste over the
bottom of the pan, and turn the pan about continually to
disengage the Pancake as soon as it sets ; turn it over
quickly, tossing it for a minute, then slip) it on to a hot
dish. Use up the remainder of the paste in the same
way, keeping the Pancakes hot till all are cooked, then
dust some caster sugar over, and serve.
(7) Berlin. — Dissolve IJoz. of dry yeast in 1 breakfast-
cupful of warm milk, then stir it gradually into Jib. of
flour, cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise.
Put lib. of flour in a bowl, stand it where it can get warm,
and add 4oz. of sugar, J table-spoonful of pounded bitter
almonds the grated peel of lialf-a-lemon, 1 saltspoonful
of salt, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Stir in
the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs and sufficient warm
milk to make a light dough ; then mix in the sponge.
Knead the whole thoroughly, mixing in at the same time
Jib. of warmed butter. The dough should be of the con-
sistency of bread dough, and it should be kneaded until
small bubbles appear. Cover the dough with a cloth, let
it partly rise in a warm temperature, then knead, and let
it rise again. Divide the dough into halves, place one
half on a floured paste-board, roll it out to about Jin. in
thickness, then- with a round tin-cutter 2Jin. in diameter
cut it into cakes. Put a small pile of any kind of preserve
in the centre of each cake, and lay them on a floured
baking-tin. Dredge more flour over the paste-board, put
Pancakes — continued.
the remainder of the dough on it, roll it out, and divide
it into cakes, as before, making them all of one size and
thickness ; lay the rounds on the top of those with the
preserve, and moisten and press them round the edges.
Cover the cakes with a cloth, and keep them in a warm
place until slightly risen. Put about 2oz. of butter in a
frying-pan, make it very hot, then put in as many cakes
as possible, and fry them over a brisk fire, turning them
when browned on one side and browning the other. Cook
all the Pancakes in this way, adding more butter to the
pan when required, but taking care that it is hot before
the cakes are put in. Drain the Pancakes thoroughly on
a cloth and leave them until cold. Beat the whites of
two eggs with a small quantity of lemon-juice and suffi-
cient caster sugar to make a creamy icing. Brush each
of the Pancakes over with a paste-brush dipped in the
icing, and place them in a cool oven. When the icing
is quite dry on the Pancakes, arrange them in a pile on
a dish over which has been spread an ornamental dish-
paper, and serve.
(8) Prepare a batter as for ordinary Pancakes, but make
it into a stiff paste by the addition of more flour. Arrange
the cakes on a large griddle, and cook them over a clear
fire. When done spread each one with butter and sugar,
pile them up on a hot plate, cut them into quarters, and
serve.
(9) French. — Put into a pan 4oz. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of pounded ratafias, the thin rind of a lemon, and
2oz. of pounded sugar ; mix in separately three eggs, add the
yolks of three more, one at a time, and mix well ; pour in
a little milk, J pint of cream, and a little orange-flower
water, and beat well to the thickness of cream. Put some
clarified butter into a frying-pan, melt it, and pour it away
so that the pan only is greased ; then put in the batter for
the Pancakes in small quantities and fry' them. The Pan-
cakes should be made very thin. When all are done, leave
1 table-spoonful of the batter at the bottom of the pan,
add to it a little orange-flower water, sugar, a small
quantity of pounded ratafias, and the yolk of an egg ; mix
this with cream, put it into a sauceboat, and serve as a
sauce.
(10) Weigh two eggs, then take the same weight each
of flour, caster sugar, and butter. Warm the butter and
beat it to a cream ; then mix with it the flour and sugar,
and when quite smooth stir in 1 teacupful of milk and
the two eggs. Butter some patty-pans, pour the prepara-
tion into them, and bake for twenty minutes in a quick
oven. When cooked, turn them on a hot dish, sprinkle
caster sugar over, and serve with lemons cut in halves on
a separate plate.
(11) Put 2oz. of sifted flour into a basin with 3oz. of
caster sugar, a few macaroons or bitter almonds, 1 tea-
spoonful of orange-flower water, 1 pinch of salt, the yolks
of five eggs, J pint of milk, and 1 pint of cream, and
mix well. Butter the inside of an omelet-pan, put a
little of the mixture in at a time, and cook on one side
only. When all the Pancakes are done, sprinkle caster
sugar over, and brown them under a salamander. Arrange
tastefully on a silver dish, and serve.
(12) Beat a dozen eggs thoroughly, strain them, and mix
into them lqt. of cream, a grated nutmeg, Jib. of sugar,
2 wineglassfuls of wine, and enough flour to make it not
quite as thick as ordinary Pancake batter. Put a frying-
pan over the fire; when pretty hot, wipe it with a clean
cloth, and pour in batter enough for a thin Pancake. Keep
turning it to prevent it from burning.
(13) Mix six well-beaten eggs with 1 pint of cream, then
stir in Jib. of caster sugar, half-a-grated nutmeg, and sift
in while stirring sufficient flour to make a thick batter. Make
a frying-pan hot, wipe it over with a cloth, fry a small
quantity of the batter at a time, lightly browning it on
both sides; then sift caster sugar over the Pancakes, and
serve with lemons cut in halves.
(14) Beat well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites
of four, add to them by degrees Jib. each of powdered
white sugar and clarified fresh butter, 1J pints of cream
heated lukewarm, 1 wineglassful of spirits of wine, and 2
table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast ; mix with this as much sifted
For detail* respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
87
Pancakes — continued.
flour as will make it into a very thick batter, and let it
stand for half-an-hour to rise ; then roll it out rather thin
and cut it into oblong pieces. Spread jam or marmalade
on these, double them, and leave again to rise; then fry
them in boiling lard or butter,
(15) Russian. — Mix loz. of liquid yeast with lib. of flour,
stir in sufficient milk to make a stiff dough, and stand it
by the fire to rise. Beat 3 table-spoonfuls of warmed butter
with four eggs, 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and a
little grated lemon-peel ; when well mixed, pour it into the
dough, and heat it again until it will separate from the
bowl. Divide this preparation into equal quantities, roll
them into balls, and fill each with marmalade or apricot
jam. Put a sheet of floured paper on a baking-sheet, put
the balls on it, and leave them to rise in a warm tempera-
ture. Plunge the balls into boiling lard and fry them
till nicely browned. Dust the tops with caster sugar
(see Fig. 101), pile on a dish, and serve hot or cold.
Pancakes with Apricot Jam. — Put Jib. of flour into a basin
with 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar and 1 pinch of salt,
break in five eggs, and mix all well together. Melt Jib.
of butter and stir it in with the other ingredients, also
1J pints of milk. Cut a piece of crumb of bread round Jin.
thick and 4J in. in diameter, sift caster sugar over, and
glaze it in the oven. Three frying-pans should be used when
making a large quantity of Pancakes, so that they may
be done quicker. Stand the pans on the fire with a small
piece of butter in them, and when it is melted put in each
2 table-spoonfuls of the mixture. When one side of the
Pancake is browned, turn it on the glazed piece of bread,
coat the top with apricot jam, put another one over this,
and so on, till all are done. Do not coat the top one
with jam, but sprinkle with caster sugar, glaze it under a
salamander, and serve.
Pancakes made with. Macaroons. — Put 2oz. of bitter
macaroons and loz. of dried orange-flowers into a mortar,
and with the pestle break and grind them to powder.
Turn this into a large bowl, add to it Jib. of finely-powdered
white sugar and 2oz. of dried and sifted flour, and mix
all well together; then stir into them the beaten yolks of
ten eggs, throw in 1 saltspoonful of salt, and add lqt. of
cream. Make a frying-pan hot over the fire, put a lump
of butter into it, and when that is quite hot fry as much
of the batter as will cover the bottom of the pan; when
slightly browned on one side, turn it carefully and brown
the other. Lay it on a hot tin plate, spread over a thin
layer of apricot marmalade, and on that sprinkle crushed
macaroons. Roll the Pancake up rather tight, and proceed
with the next one, which should, with some more butter,
have been put in the frying-pan over the fire as soon as
the first one was taken out. When all the Pancakes are
done, cut them about 3in. long, glaze them, and serve hot ;
or they may be served quite plain.
Pancakes with Potato Salad. — Slice some cold boiled
potatoes, and mix them with two or three mineed onions,
a moderate quantity of finely-minced parsley, a few slices
of pickled beetroot, and salt and pepper to taste; moisten
the mixture with 3 table-spoonfuls of the best salad-oil
and plenty of vinegar that has been diluted with water.
Beat six eggs well, mix them smoothly with 1 table-
spoonful of flour and 1 teacupful of milk, and season with
salt and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put a large
piece of butter into a frying-pan ; when it boils, pour in
some of the batter and fry it until lightly browned on
both sides. Fry the remainder of the batter in the same I
Pancakes — continued.
way, and when all the Pancakes are cooked, drain, pile
them on a hot dish, and serve with the potato salad.
Pancake Pudding. — Make about a dozen small thin Pan-
cakes and fry lightly; mask half of them with currant
jam and the remainder with apricot jam, and roll up.
Place them all round a pudding mould, cutting off pieces to
make them fit. Prepare a rich custard, pour it carefully
into the mould, strew in the trimmings of the Pancakes,
and cover with a small thin Pancake. Put the mould in
a saucepan with boiling water to three parts its height,
and steam for two hours. When cooked, turn the pudding
carefully out of the mould on to a dish, and serve.
Pancakes with Sherry. — Put six eggs into a basin and
beat them well, then mix in 1 pint of cream, 2 wine-
glassfuls of sherry, Jib. of sugar, and sufficient flour to
make a moderately thick batter. It should not be quite
so thick as the ordinary Pancake batter. Beat the mixture
well to make it quite smooth. Make a very clean frying-
pan rather hot, then pour in a thin layer of the batter,
and place it over the fire until set. Proceed in this
manner with the rest of the batter, rolling the Pancakes
up as they are taken from the pan. Put them on a hot
dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin or a
lace-edged dish-paper, sift caster sugar over them, and
serve while very hot.
Pancake Soup. — Prepare a thin creamy batter with 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, two eggs, and a small
quantity of milk. Melt a small piece of fat (either suet,
lard, or butter) in a frying-pan, pour in sufficient batter
to thinly cover the bottom of the pan, and place it over
the fire until the Pancake is lightly browned on one side ;
then turn it quickly over to the other. When all the
Pancakes are fried, cut them with small tin cutters into
any fancy shapes. Put a saucepan with 3 pints of clear
soup over the fire, and when the soup boils put in the
Pancakes, and boil them for two or three minutes; then
turn the soup into a soup-tureen, and serve while very hot.
Pancake Strudels. — Prepare a Pancake batter with four
eggs, 4 table-spoonfuls of flour, 2oz. of warmed butter, loz.
of sugar, and J pint of warmed milk. Put a lump of
butter into a frying-pan, melt it, then pour in a thin
layer of the batter. Fiy until browned on one side,
then turn it over and brown the other. Continue in this way
until all the Pancakes are cooked, putting more butter
into the pan when required. Beat the yolks of four eggs
-and mix them with J pint of sour cream, then put in 2
table-spoonfuls of well-washed currants, the same quantity
of sultanas, and a small quantity of grated lemon-peel.
Spread the mixture over the Pancakes, roll up lightly,
lay them in a buttered dish, moisten with a few table-
spoonfuls of sweetened milk, and put a small piece of
butter on each. Place the dish in the oven until the
Pancakes are lightly browned, and serve while very hot.
Pancakes Stuffed with Veal Forcemeat. — Make a Pan-
cake batter, using in proportion four eggs, 2oz. of flour,
2oz. of warmed butter, loz. of sugar, and J pint of warmed
milk, and mix the batter until smooth. Melt a small
lump of butter in a frying-pan, and pour in a small
quantity of the batter, letting it spread in a thin layer
over the pan. When the batter browns on one side, turn
it over and brown the other. Spread a thin layer of
veal forcemeat over each Pancake, roll them up, and cut
Fig. 102. Pancakes Stuffed with Veal Forcemeat.
them through into strips; dip these in batter, and fry
them slowly in butter. Drain the Pancakes, arrange them
on an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with
parsley (see Fig. 102), and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , die. , referred to , see under their special heads.
88
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pancakes — continued.
Snow Pancakes. — Put Jib. of sifted flour into a basin, and
mix with it the grated peel of a small lemon, 1 teaspoon-
ful of salt, and sufficient milk to make a rather thick batter,
which beat well with a wooden spoon. Put a small piece of
butter or lard into a frying-pan, and place it oyer a clear
fire. Beat up very quickly 1 table-spoonful of fresh snow
with each Pancake, and fry them until lightly browned on
both sides ; then drain them as free from fat as possible.
Spread a fancy dish-paper over a hot dish, lay the Pan-
cakes on it, first dredging with caster sugar and folding
them over, and serve at once.
Stuffed Pancakes with Fruit. — Warm 2oz. of butter and
beat it until creamy; mix it with four eggs, loz. of sugar,
J pint of warmed milk, and a small quantity of salt ; then
stir in sufficient flour to make a thin batter, and add 2
table- spoonfuls of well-washed currants and the grated
peel of half a lemon. Put loz. of butter into a frying-
pan, melt it, and pour in a very thin layer of the batter ;
when browned on one side, turn it over quickly and brown
the other. Continue in this way until all the batter is
used, putting in more butter when wanted, but not using
too much. As each Pancake is cooked, spread over a
thin layer of any kind of preserved fruit, roll it up,
arrange on a hot dish over which has been spread an
ornamental disli-paper, sift over caster sugar and a small
quantity of powdered cinnamon, and serve.
Stuffed Pancakes with Ham. — Finely mince Jib. of cooked
ham and add it to 1 breakfast-cupful of thick sour cream.
Beat 2oz. of warmed butter, then mix with it four well-
beaten eggs. Put 1 teacupful of flour into a basin with
a small quantity of salt, and stir in the beaten eggs to-
gether with | pint of warm milk. Put a him]) of butter
in a frying-pan, melt it, then pour hi a thin layer of the
batter, and fry it until nicely browned on one side; then
turn it over and fry the other. Proceed in this way until
all the Pancakes are cooked. Mask each Pancake with
a thin layer of the ham mixture, roll up, cut them into
strips about fin. thick, and lay them in a thickly-buttered
dish. Beat two eggs and \ pint of milk, season with a
small quantity of salt, and pour them over the Pancakes.
Put the dish in a moderate oven and bake until the
custard has set. Serve while very hot.
Stuffed Pancakes with Herbs. — Put into a stewpan with
a lump of butter, some finely-chopped parsley, chives,
thyme, and any other green herbs that may be liked, using
them in equal quantities. Put the lid on the pan, place
it over a slow fire until the herbs are soft, then mix with
them a small quantity of chopped ham. Beat five eggs
together with a little more than \ pint of milk and 3oz. of
warmed butter; stir in gradually sufficient flour to make
a thin batter, keeping it smooth. Melt a lump of butter
in a frying-pan, and fry the batter in small quantities,
letting it run in a thin layer over the pan. When all the
Pancakes are cooked and lightly browned on each side,
mask each with a thin layer of the herb mixture, on one
side only, and roll them up. Lay the Pancakes side by
side in a stewpan, placing them close together so that they
will not unroll, pour in just sufficient broth to cover the
bottom of the pan, put on the lid, and stew them slowly
at the side of the lire for twenty minutes. Drain them,
arrange them on a lace-edged dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
PANDANUS WINE.— See Ava-fara.
PAN-DOWDY.— This is the eccentric name given to
a deep pie or pudding made of baked apples, or of sliced
bread and apples baked together, with no bottom crust.
The following is a good receipt for it:
Peel, core, and quarter about 21b. of cooking apples,
put them in a basin, cover them with a light bread dough
that has been rolled out, and bake in a brick oven. When
the apples are cooked, remove the crust and stir in with
them 2 or .3 table-spoonfuls of molasses, a small quantity
each of powdered cinnamon and grated nutmeg, and loz.
of butter broken up into small bits. Put a plate over the
basin, return it to the oven, and bake for three hours
longer. Serve while hot.
PANTRY- Although in all Continental kitchens this
is practically included in what is termed the office of the
kitchen, in England it is usually associated with the
larder, as a chamber especially adapted for storing food.
The word is evidently derived from the Latin panis —
bread. See Larder.
PAP. — Any soft food for infants.
PAP ARE TT A. — A wine made in Piedmont, a
province of Italy.
PAP AW. — A tree of tropical America belonging to
the order Passiflorece. The milky juice of the plant is
said to have the property of making meat tender. Its dull,
orange-coloured, melon-shaped fruit is eaten raw, cooked,
or pickled.
FAPBOAT. — A kind of sauceboat or dish.
PAPER (Fr. Papier; Ger. Papier ; Ital. Carta ; Sp.
Papel). — In every kitchen Paper is occasionally useful.
Cooks use it for tying round delicate meats to be baked or
roasted ; for covering pies and other pastry that require
cooking thoroughly before browning ; for lining cake-tins ;
for covering jams ; for making cases to hold small birds,
cutlets, and ramekins ; for covering cutlets, fish, and other
things prepared for grilling or broiling, as en papillote ;
for making frills to fasten round cutlet- or ham-bones, or
the shank-bones of haunches ; to fold round cakes and
other delicacies ; and to make those ornamental dish-
papers which are used instead of the folded napkin.
Considerable ingenuity is exercised by some cooks in
the use of Paper, either for cooking or for ornamentation ;
but, in a general way, lace-edged dish-paper frills and
cases can be bought ready made, and at such a small cost
that cooks prefer to use them, especially as they are so much
more accurately made by machinery than it would be pos-
sible to construct them by hand (see Plate illustrating
Paper Cases and Ornaments). Nevertheless, as it may
sometimes happen that these ready-made goods are
unattainable, it is as well for the cook to understand
how to make them, should occasion, under such circum-
stances, require their use.
When lining cake-tins — a thin white or wliitey-brown
Paper does for this — two or three flats should be cut to the
shape of the tin, and laid at the bottom ; a long strip,
rather wider than the side of the tin, is then to be laid
accurately round, so that one edge touches the bottom
flats, and the other extends above the sides (see No. 1 on
Plate illustrating “ Home-made Paper Frills and Cases ”)
preventing the cake from overflowing as it rises.
For covering foods to be cooked no special instructions
are required, as the cook cuts the shapes to suit the parti-
cular purpose out of a common note or foolscap Paper.
Frills are made by folding a strip of thin Paper — coloured
perhaps — and cutting into it very evenly a little way
through the folded margin (see No. 2). By turning the
back of the strip over the front (see No. 3) a single
frill results. Two or three strips can be served in the
same way, and laid over each other, forming a very elegant
ornamentation (see No. 4). When making the incisions
they may be cut (instead of straight) either slanting,
zigzag, or scalloped, and will, when made up, have a very
pretty effect, according to the arrangement adopted.
In making Paper cases a somewhat stiffer Paper is
required, something of a thin cartridge, with an even
smooth surface. A very good square or oblong case
can then be made by cutting a sheet of Paper to the
required size, which will be the size of the bottom, plus
the height of the sides (see No. 5). When the sides
are bent over one at a time along the dotted line, the
case is easily formed by pinching up the corners, and
fastening them with a needle and thread (see No. 6).
Round, oval, or cutlet-shaped cases require blocks to fold
them on. These blocks are merely wooden columns (see
No. 7) about Sin. or 4in. long, which can be made
fast to a bench or table by a thumbscrew (see
No. 8) passing through the table and entering some two
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
ORNAMENTAL, ARTISTIC, AND FANCIFUL ARRANGEMENTS OF FRUITS FOR TABLE OR SIDEBOARD.
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THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
89
Paper — continued.
inches or less into the substance of the block. A piece of
Paper is then cut out to the desired size and shape, and
laid on the top of the block, the overlapping part being
neatly folded down in even pleats (see No. 9). Over the
folded paper a tin or wooden cap may be made to fit,
passing down only so far over the Paper as to have a free
Jin. all round (see No. 10). This free Jin can then
easily be turned over the edge of the cap, and a very excel-
lent case results (see No. 11). If the cap is not handy,
then the edge can be folded by pressing with the back
of a small knife (see No. 12), whilst the Paper is turned
up with the finger and thumb. “ All the numbers refer to
those on the Plate illustrating Home-made Paper Prills
and Cases.”
In order to make these pleats quite firm, it is advisable
to press the folds sharply and firmly with the handle of a
knife, or other hard, smooth substance. With these
instructions no difficulty should be experienced by cooks
in making cases for their own use.
PAFILLOTE. — Fr. for a curl paper. The term is
commonly applied to the papers used for wrapping cutlets
and other dainties before cooking.
PAPINS DIGESTER. — See Digesters.
PARADISE, GRAINS OP. — See Pepper.
PARAGUAY TEA. — The leaf of the Brazilian holly
or mate {Ilex paraguariensis), sometimes used as a sub-
stitute for Chinese tea. It is very extensively employed
in the South American States.
PARBOIL. — To partly boil.
PARFAIT-AMOUR. — See Cordials & Liqueurs.
PARKIN. — The name of a spiced cake that is manu-
factured on the 5th of November in almost every cottage
in the neighbourhood of Leeds. It is usual to send slices
of Parkin as presents.
(1) Warm lib. of butter and heat it until creamy
with 41b. of moist sugar, then heat in 1 break fast -cupful
of treacle and the beaten yolks of six eggs, mixing the whole
smoothly together with 3 breakfast-cupfuls of fine oatmeal ;
also mix in 14 teaspoonfuls each of bicarbonate of soda
and cream of tartar, loz. of caraway-seeds, and ‘2oz. of
thinly-shred candied lemon-peel. Whisk the whites of the
■ Fig. 103. Parkin.
six eggs to a stiff froth, and stir it in with the mixture at
the last. Butter a shallow baking-dish, turn the Parkin
into it, and bake it for about two hours in a moderate
oven. Serve when cold. See Fig. 103.
(2) Put 341b. of oatmeal into a basin and mix in lib.
each of flour and butter, 41b. of moist sugar, loz. of baking-
powder, and make the whole into a stiff dough by work-
ing in syrup. Make the dough into rounds, put them on
tins, keeping them about 3in. apart, and bake in a slow
oven. Take them out when done, and use cold, or it may
be made with 31b. of dough such as is used for making
brandy snaps, and working in 6oz. of moist sugar, 5oz. of
butter, 12oz. of oatmeal, foz. of bicarbonate of soda, ioz.
of caraway-seeds, and the same of any seasoning. In
baking care must be taken not to cook too fast, or tliey
will spoil.
(3) Rub lib. of butter into 31b. of line oatmeal until
perfectly smooth ; then mix in lib. of brown sugar, 1 1
table-spoonfuls of ground ginger, and 31b. of treacfe, and
Parkin — continued.
beat the whole well with a wooden spoon. Butter a
shallow tin dish, and drop the mixture on to it with a
spoon, leaving a small space between each. Bake the
Parkin in a slow oven, and as the pieces nearest the edges
of the tin are cooked they should be removed, and the
centre pieces brought forward.
(4) Put lib. of treacle in a small saucepan and place it
over the fire until warm ; dissolve 1 teaspoonful of bi-
carbonate of soda in 1 table-spoonful of warm water, then
mix it and the treacle with lib. of sifted oatmeal and
4 table-spoonful of caraway-seeds, beating with a wooden
spoon until well incorporated. Cover the basin, stand
it in a warm place for two hours, at the end of which
time turn the Parkin on to a buttered baking-dish, and
bake it. When cooked, cut it into pieces of the desired
size. It should be kept in a dry place.
(5) Prepare a moderately stiff dough by rubbing lib. of
butter into lib. of flour, and mixing in 2 teaspoonfuls of
bicarbonate of soda, 31b. of fine oatmeal, 1 teacupful of
beer, and sufficient syrup. When thoroughly mixed, turn
the dough into an edged pan about 3in. in height, and
bake in a slack oven until done. Turn it out, and serve
as required.
(6) Rub i-lb. of butter into 241b. of oatmeal until quite
smooth, then mix in a small quantity of ginger or finely-
shred candied peel, Jib. of moist sugar, and 21b. of treacle.
When quite smooth, turn the mixture into buttered cake
tins, and bake in a good oven.
PARLIAMENT CAKES.— See Cakes.
PARMESAN CHEESE.— This is already described
under Cheese. It is very valuable to the artistic cook,
entering into many receipts as a garnish or flavouring.
The following may be regarded as special applications
of Parmesan to culinary purposes :
Aigrettes of Parmesan Cheese. — Put 4 pint of water into
a saucepan with Jib- of butter, and place over the fire
until boiling. Stir in gradually 4oz. of flour, and continue
stirring it until cooked ; then mix in Jib. of grated Par-
mesan Cheese, and season to taste with salt and a small
quantity of cayenne pepper. When the cheese has dissolved,
move the saucepan to the edge of the fire. Beat four
eggs well, and mix them in gradually. Put a good-sized
lump of clarified fat or butter in a flat stewpan, place
over the fire until blue smoke rises, then with a
table-spoon drop in small quantities of the mixture and
fry them until a pale golden brown. Take them out of
the fat with a strainer, and lay them on a piece of kitchen
paper near the fire to drain. Spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, p>ile the aigrettes
on it, garnish with sprays of parsley, and serve them
while very hot.
Parmesan Cheese Omelet. — Break two eggs into a basin,
and dust over with a very little pepper and cayenne. Put
loz. of butter into a pan rubbed over with garlic. When
it is boiling pour in the eggs and hold the pan over the
fire to let the omelet set ; then put 1 table-spoonful of
grated Parmesan Cheese on one half of it, cover over with
the other half, cook for a minute longer, and serve
immediately.
Parmesan Cheese Pyramids. — Rub 2oz. of butter in 2oz.
of flour until quite smooth ; then mix in 2oz. of finely-grated
Fig. 104. Parmesan Cheese Pyramids.
Parmesan Cheese, season with salt and a small quantity of
cayenne pepper, and work the whole into a light paste with
a little water. Roll the paste out very thin, cut it into
For details respecting Culinary Processes. V tonsils, Sauces, . he., referred to, see under their special heads.
90
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Parmesan Cheese — continued.
squares, lay them on a buttered sheet of paper spread over
a baking-sheet, and bake them in a brisk oven. When
cooked, take the biscuits out of the oven and let them get
cold. Season f breakfast-cupful of thick cream with salt,
pepper, and cayenne pepper, and whip it to a stiff froth.
Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese with the
cream, and ice it. When ready, pile the cream high on
each of the squares (see Fig. 104), arrange them carefully
on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper spread over
a dish, and serve.
Parmesan Cheese Quenelle Soup. — Put 2oz. of butter into
a saucepan on the fire, melt it, and add sufficient flour to
form a roux. Cook this for a few minutes, add more
flour to form a soft paste, and let it dry for a few minutes
longer over the lire; then add the yolks of six eggs, 2oz.
of grated Parmesan Cheese, a small quantity of chicken
glaze, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste, and lastly
a slight colouring of essence of spinach. Poach a small
portion of this quenelle mixture to determine its firmness ;
should it be too stiff add a little broth, but if too thin
add a little more yolk of egg. Form it into quenelles,
put these into a buttered saute -pan, pour over some boiling
stock, and poacli them for about fifteen minutes. Take
them out, drain them on a cloth, put them into a tureen,
pour over as much strained macaroni soup as is required,
and serve very hot with grated Parmesan Cheese on a
separate dish. The macaroni from the soup may be served
with it or not as desired.
Parmesan Cheese and Rice. — Peel and slice two small
onions, put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and
fry them ; then add \ pint of shelled or tinned shrimps and
1 table-spoonful of dry French mustard. Stir the mixture
well for a few minutes, then move it off the fire. Wash 2oz.
of rice and boil it ; when cooked it should be dry and each
grain separate. Put the rice in with the fried onion and
shrimps, add 2oz. of grated Parmesan Cheese, and season
to taste with salt and pepper. Stir the mixture over the
fire until the cheese has well dissolved. Turn it on to a
hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets
of toast, and serve.
Parmesan Cheese Sauce. — Put l pint of rich creamy veloute
sauce into a saucepan, add 1 breakfast -cupful of freshly-
grated Parmesan Cheese, bring the sauce to the boil, rub
or wring it through a cloth, and use as required.
Parmesan Cheese Soup. — (1) Cut one or two rolls into
thin slices, put them into a bowl of cream, soak them,
and put them on a plate. Cover liberally on both
sides with grated Parmesan Cheese, then put them into a
tureen, pour over some rich soup, and serve. Toasted
brown bread may be used instead of the rolls.
(2) Peel and cut into strips about lin. in length three
small carrots, turnips, and onions ; wash and cut a head of
celery into pieces the same length. Melt 2oz. of butter
in a stewpan, put in the vegetables with a small quantity
of sugar, cover tightly with the lid, and place it over a
slow fire. Shake the vegetables about occasionally until
lightly browned, then pour in about 3 pints of good broth,
and boil them until tender. Cut a stale French roll into
slices of a moderate thickness, then cut them out with a
small round cutter into pieces about the size of a shilling ;
dip them in melted butter, and roll them in finely-grated
Parmesan Cheese, giving them a good coating. Cover a baking-
sheet with white paper, lay the pieces of bread on it, and bake
them a pale golden colour in a brisk oven. Place the Par-
mesan croutons in a soup-tureen, strain the soup through
a fine hair sieve over them, and serve immediately.
Parmesan Cheese Water Pie. — Put 21b. of flour on a
table and make a dent in the middle, in which put 1 salt-
spoonful of salt and as many beaten eggs as it will require
to make a softisli paste. Knead it well, divide it into
several equal-sized portions, and roll them out. Put a
saucepan of water over the fire with a lump of salt in it,
and when it boils scald the pieces of paste, one at a time,
with the exception of two. Drain and dry the pieces of
paste on a cloth, and smooth them out carefully. Butter
a baking-tin, lay in one of the unscalded pieces of paste,
and baste it with 1 table-spoonful of warmed butter ; lay half
Parmesan Cheese — continued.
of the scalded pieces on the top of that, basting these also
with a little warmed butter. Grate |lb. of Parmesan Cheese,
and mix with it a few table -spoonfuls of chopped fennel
and one or two raw eggs ; season the mixture ■with salt
and pepper, spread it over the pieces of paste, cover
the cheese with the remaining scalded pieces of paste,
moistening each with a small quantity of warmed butter as
before. Lay the unscalded piece of paste on the top, butter
it, and put it into a quick oven ; when cooked and nicely
browned, cut the pastiy into any form liked, put it on a
dish , and serve while very hot. This dish is a famous one
in Turkey, and it is especially light and agreeable.
PARR. — The name usually applied to the young
salmon, but by some it is used for a small species of trout
which is in season during the months of July and August.
They may be cooked like ordinary trout, but are best fried.
PARiSLEY (Fr. Persil; Ger. Petersilie; Itul. Petro-
sellino ; Sp. Perescil). — This plant ( Petroselinum sativum),
Lindley tells us, is said to have derived its botanical name
from the Greek petros — a stone, from its being a native of
rocky or stony places ; but there is good reason to believe
that it has a widely different origin. Parsley has ever been
an object of superstitious observance ; for besides its being
the assigned plant from beneath which came our brothers
and sisters, we remember how it was always considered
such ill luck to transplant it that but few people in
the Midland counties could be got to perform such an
act. Mr. John Jones, of Gloucester, who has published
some interesting notes upon this subject, on asking a
person to whom the order to remove a bed of Parsley
to another place had been vainly repeated, the reason
for this neglect, received a reply to the following effect:
Fig. 105. Curled Parsley.
He was quite willing to root it up and destroy it entirely,
but transplant it he would not, nor did he know anyone
who would willingly take upon himself the consequences
of such an act. Mr. Jones thinks that it is probable this
herb was dedicated to Persephone, as queen of the dead,
presuming her to be identical with Hecate or Selene;
the resemblance of its Greek name ( Selinou ) to that of
the last-named divinity at once suggesting its direct
derivation from it. The correctness of this supposition is
supported by other etymological considerations, as thus —
its Greek name being preserved with the prefix of Peter :
Archaic Greek
Latin ...
Italian
German
French
Welsh
English
Selinou
Petroselinum
Petrosellino
Petersilie
Persil
Perllys
Parsley
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
91
Parsley — continued.
These names our authority freely translates Peter’s
Moon Plant, and adds that the connection of the name of
Peter with it is suggestive of the policy hy which the pre-
judices of the rude people, amongst whom Christianity was
first introduced, were met and modified in the transference
of objects of reverential regard, from the tutelage of
long-honoured Pagan divinities, to that of Christian
Saints. Parsley, thus dedicated to funeral rites by the
Greeks, was afterwards consecrated to St. Peter in his
character of successor to Charon, and doorkeeper of
Paradise.
Whether the above glowing account be correct or not,
it is quite certain that well-curled Parsley (see Fig. 105)
is fit for the modern cook’s crown. As a seasoning and
garnish it has no equal, whether cooked or raw, and the
garnish of one day can be fried for either the garnish
or seasoning of another. Parsley should never be thrown
away, as even when greasy it can be cooked, and when
clean can be dried for use when the Parsley-beds are
no longer available.
Fried Parsley. — Carefully pick the stems from the Parsley,
wash it, dry it on a cloth, put it into a frying-basket and
then into hot fat, and fry for a few minutes, taking care
that the fat is not too hot, or the Parsley will lose its
colour and be spoiled. The fat that croquettes have been
fried in is best for it.
Farsley-and-Butter Sauce. — (1) Put '2oz. of butter into a
saucepan, and melt it ; then stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of
flour, mixing it well over the fire, but not letting it
brown at all. Pour in gradually 1 pint of boiling water or
white stock, and continue stirring until it thickens ;
then put in 2oz. more butter and 2 table-spoonfuls of
finely-chopped Parsley, and season to taste with salt
and pepper. When the butter has dissolved the sauce is
ready for serving.
(2) Blanch a small bunch of Parsley, and chop it finely.
Put lioz. of butter into a small saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until well mixed
but not browned ; then pour in gradually £ pint of water,
and stir it over the fire until boiling. Move the saucepan
to the side of the fire, add the Parsley, and season to
taste with salt and white pepper. Stir it for two or three
minutes longer, and it is then ready for serving.
Parsley Jelly. — Wash a large bunch of fresh young Parsley
in several waters, put it in a lined copper pan with as
much cold water as will nearly cover it, and boil for half-
an-hour. Strain it through a jelly-bag two or three times,
measure the juice, put it again hi the pan, with lib. of
loaf sugar and the rind and strained juice of a lemon to
eveiy pint, and boil it for twenty-live minutes. Stir in
foz. of isinglass, then skim the jelly and pour it into jars.
When cold, tie these down, and keep them in a dry store-
closet.
Parsley Juice for Colouring.— Pick some leaves of Parsley,
put them hi a mortar, and pound them. Squeeze the
juice oil into a jar, stand it in a saucepan, surround it
with boiling water, but do not let the water boil over the
edges (a bain-marie is best), and keep it by the side of
the fire till the juice is warm. It is then ready for use.
Parsley-and-Lemon Sauce. — Squeeze the juice out of a
lemon, remove all the pips, and finely mince the pulp and
rind. Wash a good handful of Parsley, shake it as dry as
possible, and chop it, throwing away all the stalks. Put
loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour hi a stewpan,
and stir them over the fire until well mixed ; then put in
the Parsley and minced lemon, and pour in as much clear
6tock as will be required to make the sauce. Season with
a small quantity of pounded mace, and stir the whole
over the fire for a few minutes. Beat the yolks of two
eggs with 2 table-spoonfuls of cold stock, and move
the sauce to the side of the fire ; when it has gone off' the
boil sth in the eggs. Stir the sauce for two minutes at
the side of the fire, when it will be ready for serving.
Parsley Omelet. — Break two eggs in a basin, put 1 table-
spoonful of milk in with them, and beat them, mixing
Parsley — continued.
thoroughly but not making them too light ; add 1
pinch of salt and 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped Parsley,
while beating. Put 1 table-spoonful of clarified butter in
a small omelet-pan, and when boiling put in the omelet
preparation ; when partly set, run the point of a knife
round to loosen it, and shake the omelet over to the
further side of the pan until the thin edge, forced up-
wards, falls back into the omelet. When nicely browned
underneath, and the middle nearly set, roll the brown side
uppermost, with the aid of a knife, and slide the omelet
on to a hot dish. Serve at once.
Parsley Powder. — Gather a quantity of fresh Parsley, and
dip it into a basin of boiling water in which a little bi-
carbonate of soda has been dissolved. Wring the Parsley
well to extract as much of the water as possible, tie it
together in moderate sized bunches, cover them with
thin paper to keep the dust oil', and hang them up in the
kitchen in a warm temperature. When quite dry, rub
the Parsley oil’ the stalks, powder it as finely as possible,
and sift it through a piece of coarse muslin. Put the
powder into small wide-mouthed bottles, and cork them
tightly. The corking must be especially attended to, as
the Parsley will lose its flavour if not kept dry and free
from air.
Preserved Parsley for Winter Use. — Tie some fresh
washed Parsley in bunches, having first carefully picked
it over, put it in a saucepan of boiling water with a
little salt and boil for three or four minutes. Put the
Parsley on a sieve to drain. Dry it slowly in front of a
brisk fire, and when dry enough almost to crumble put
it into bottles. When the Parsley is required for use soak
it in warm water for two or three minutes. Although
not equal in appearance to fresh Parsley, it answers very
well when the other cannot lie procured.
PARSNIPS ( Fr . Panais ; Ger. Pastinaken ; Ital.
Pastinaclie; Sp. Chirivais). — The Parsnip is the edible
aromatic spindle-shaped root of Pastinaca sativa (accord-
ing to modern botanists more properly called Peuce-
danum sativum). The name Pastinaca is derived from
the Latin pastinum , a kind of dibble, which it closely
resembles in shape. In its wild state the Parsnip is
poisonous, but under cultivation it is not only quite
Fig. 106. Long Parsnip. Fig. 107. Round Parsnip.
harmless, but nutritious as a vegetable food. The Parsnip
is a native of England and Ireland, but does not grow
wild in Scotland. It is also met with in many other parts
of Europe, and Northern Asia. In the Channel Islands
Parsnips, which frequently grow 18in. long and 6in. in
diameter, are largely used as winter food for cows, which
ai-e said to yield much better butter in consequence.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
92
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Parsnips — continued.
There are two principal kinds of Parsnips cultivated,
the long (see Fig. 106) and the round (see Fig. 107),
either of which may be used in the following receipts:
Baked Parsnips. — Peel and wash some large hollow-crowned
Parsnips, cut them lengthwise into quarters, and steam
them for one hour. Take them out, put them in a baking-
dish with a little salt and meat drippings, and bake till
nicely browned. Drain, put them on a hot dish, and serve.
Boiled Parsnips. — (1) Rub and wash some Parsnips well,
but do not scrape them ; put them in a saucepan with
boiling salted water, and boil them quickly till tender,
which will take from one hour to one-hour and-a-half accord-
ing to the size of the Parsnips. When done, rub their
skins off' with a rough cloth, put them in a hot dish, and
serve with butter sauce, seasoned with a little pepper and
salt, poured over them.
(2) Scrape three large Parsnips, slice them iin. thick and
2in. long, and boil them in boiling salted water until
they are tender. Drain off the water, add to the Parsnips
2 table-spoonfuls of butter and 1 teacupful of cream, season
with white pepper and salt, let them boil once, and serve.
Broiled Parsnips. — Boil some Parsnips, drain them, dry
them on a clean towel, split them into slices |in. thick,
dip them in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper,
put them between the bars of a double wire gridiron,
broil them brown over a hot fire, and serve immediately.
Pricassee of Parsnip. — Scrape some Parsnips and wash them,
boil them in milk till they are soft, and cut them length-
wise into quarters, and then into pieces about 3in. long.
Have a white sauce ready made of h pint of cream mixed
with 2 table-spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth flavoured
with pepper, salt, and mace, and thickened with butter
and flour. Put the Parsnips in, let them simmer for a few
minutes, and serve hot.
Fried Parsnips. — (1) Scrape some Parsnips, wash them, and
boil them in salted water. When tender, drain them, cut
them lengthwise into halves, and dredge them over with
flour. Put a piece of lard or butter in a flat stewpan,
place it on the fire, and let it boil ; then put in the
Parsnips, and fry them until nicely browned. Drain them,
pile them on a hot dish, over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
(2) A merican. — Peel and wash some Parsnips, put them
in boiling salted water, and boil till tender. Drain and
cut the Parsnips in thin slices lengthwise, and leave
them till cool, with a little salt sprinkled over them. Put
1 breakfast-cupful of molasses in a large frying-pan, place
it on the fire, and let it boil ; then put in the slices of
Parsnips and fry them ; when browned on one side turn them
and brown the other. Arrange them on a hot dish, and
serve.
Mashed Parsnips. — Scrape a large Parsnip, wash it, cut it
lengthwise into eight pieces, put it into a saucepan with
Iqt. of boiling water, a little salt, and a small lump of
dripping, and boil till quite tender ; then take the pieces
out, put them on a colander, drain, and press all the
water out. Mash the Parsnip till quite smooth with a
wooden spoon, then put it in a saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of milk or a small lump of butter, a little salt
and pepper, and stir it over the fire till thoroughly hot
again. Turn it into a dish, and serve at once.
Parsnip Balls. — Wash, peel, and boil sufficient Parsnips to
make 2 breakfast-cupfuls when mashed. When tender,
drain the Parsnips, mash them with 2 table-spoonfuls of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream. Put the ingredients when well mixed
in a saucepan, and stir them over the fire till bubbling.
Take the saucepan off, mix in one beaten egg, and set
it away to cool ; shape the preparation into balls, dip them
in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, put them in a frying-
basket, and plunge them into boiling fat. When well
browned, drain the balls, put them on a hot dish, and
serve.
Parsnip Fritters. — Peel and boil some Parsnips until tender,
then drain them thoroughly, mash them smoothly, mixing^
Parsnips — continued.
in with them two beaten eggs, salt to taste, and suffi-
cient flour to bind them rather stiffly. Divide and mould
the mixture into small round cakes with floured hands.
Put a large piece of butter into a flat stewpan, place it on
the fire, and let it boil ; then put in the cakes, and fry them
a bright golden brown. Drain them, pile them on a hot
dish, over which has been spread a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve.
Parsnip Pudding. — (1) Peel and wash two large Parsnips,
cut them in halves, and boil them. When tender, drain
them, and mash them smooth with a piece of butter,
sweetening to taste with caster sugar, and flavouring with
a small quantity of grated lemon-peel or powdered cinnamon.
Stir in 1 wineglassful of brandy, and sufficient beaten
eggs to make a stiff batter. Thickly butter the interior
of a pudding-basin, strew grated breadcrumb over it,
pour in the mixture, and boil. When cooked turn the
pudding on to a hot dish, and serve it with a sauceboat-
ful of sweet sauce.
(2) German. — Peel three or four Parsnips, wash them, and
boil them in water ; when tender, drain them thoroughly,
and mash them smoothly. Warm 2oz. of butter, mix
it with the Parsnips, sweeten to taste with caster sugar,
and flavouring moderately with grated lemon-peel. Beat
four eggs thoroughly, and stir them in with the mixture.
Thickly butter a mould, strew in some grated breadcrumb,
shaking the mould about so that it is covered equally,
then pour in the mixture, cover it with a stout pudding-
cloth, and boil it for an hour. When cooked, turn the
pudding on to a hot dish, and serve with a fruit sauce
poured over it.
Parsnip Salad. — (1) Scrape the skin off two or three raw Par-
snips, pick out the discoloured parts, cut them into thin
slices, and dredge with flour. Put a piece of butter
in a frying-pan, put in the Parsnips, and fry them till
brown; then drain them and leave till cold. Arrange
the slices of Parsnip in the centre of a dish; finely mince
some ham, arrange it round them in little mounds, with the
half of a hard-boiled egg between each, then put round
Fig. 108. Parsnip Salad.
that a border of well-washed and drained garden cress
(see Fig. 108). Pour a remoulade sauce over the Parsnips,
and serve.
(2) Rub the skin off some Parsnips with a coarse
towel, pick out the discoloured parts with a sharp-
pointed knife, cut them into quarters, and boil in salted
water till tender. Drain the Parsnips, cut them into
narrow strips, and sprinkle a few chopped herbs over
them. Prepare a plain salad dressing with oil and vinegar,
the oil predominating, season it with salt and pepper, pour
it over the Parsnips, and serve them.
Parsnips Sautees. — Scrape some Parsnips and wash them,
put them into a saucepan of cold water with a little salt,
place them over the fire, and boil until tender. When
cooked, drain them and cut them into slices, Put
2oz. of butter into a saute-pan, and place it on the fire ;
when it has melted, put in the slices of Parsnips, and toss
them gently about until lightly browned all over. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, arrange them on a hot dish over
which has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper, strew finely-chopped parsley over them, and
serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
93
Parsnips — continued.
Parsnip Soup. — (1) Peel and wash seven or eight Parsnips,
and put them into a saucepan with 2qts. of hot veal broth,
two sliced tomatoes, and two onions that have been sliced
and browned in a little butter. Put the lid on the sauce-
pan, stand it by the side of the fire, and let the contents
simmer from two liours-and-a-lialf to three hours. When
done, pass the vegetables through a fine hah- sieve, and boil
the pulp up again in the soup. Take the soup off the fire,
stir in the yolks of two eggs beaten in h pint of milk,
season to taste with salt and pepper, pour it into a soup-
tureen, and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast or
croutons of fried bread.
(2) Peel and wash one large or two small Parsnips, cut
them into little pieces, and boil them in lqt. of water till
quite tender; then take them out, pass them through a
sieve, and put them again into the water in which they
were cooked. Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of flour in \ pint of
milk, stir it into the soup, and boil till the flour is cooked.
Then put in salt and pepper to taste and two lumps of
sugar. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve it with
croutons of fried bread, or with sippets of toast.
(3) Put lib. of knuckle of veal or mutton in a saucepan
with 24qts. of water, and let it boil for one hour. Peel and
cut into small pieces six Parsnips and three small onions,
put them into the soup, add a piece of celery and a
tomato, also cut up, and boil for two hours ; then pour
through a strainer, rubbing the Parsnips through, and put
the soup in the saucepan with J pint of cream or milk,
and pepper and salt to taste. When very hot turn it
into a tureen, and serve with sippets of toast on a plate.
Parsnip Wine. — (1) Peel and cut 81b. of Parsnips into
quarters, put them in a large pan with 2galls. of water,
and boil until tender; then strain the Parsnip liquor,
being very careful not to bruise the Parsnips. Pour the
liquor into a cask, and mix with it 61b. of loaf sugar and
loz. of cream of tartar; when it has cooled, put in a small
quantity of either fresh brewers’ yeast or German yea-st.
Keep the wine in a temperature of about 60deg. until
fermentation ceases. When ready, put the bung firmly
down in the cask and leave it for about a year. Afterwards
draw the wine off, and bottle it.
(2) Peel 61b. of Parsnips, cut them into quarters, or
smaller if desired ; put them into a pan with 41b. of sugar,
loz. of cream of tartar, and 2galls. of water, and boil
them. Pour the whole into a tub, let it cool, add
2oz. each of bruised cloves and ginger, and lgall. of cold
boiled water. Let this remain for twelve hours, then add
yeast to cause fermentation, taking care to stir this well
in ; when the fermentation has ceased, draw off the liquor
into a cask, add the necessary finings, and bottle off in
two years, or it may be bottled in six months, and left
for two years before using.
Scalloped Parsnips. -Mix 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold
mashed Parsnips with 2 table-spoonfuls each of butter and
cream, and a little pepper and salt. Put it iu a saucepan,
stir it over the fire till bubbling, then take it off. Butter
a baking-dish, put the preparation in it, sprinkle plenty
of breadcrumbs over the top, pour a few table-spoonfuls
of warmed butter over, and brown it under a salamander.
Serve while hot.
Stewed Parsnips. — Peel and wash four large Parsnips, and
boil them till tender in salted water. Take the Parsnips
out when done, drain them, cut them into thin slices, and
put them in a saucepan with l pint of cream, a piece of
butter that has been mixed with a little flour, a little
grated nutmeg, and 1 pinch of salt. Toss them over the
fire till mixed and smooth. Turn into a hot dish and
serve.
PARTRIDGES (TV. Perdrix ; Ger. Reblm finer ;
Hal. Pernice ; Sp. Perdices). — There are several species of
birds of the genus Perdix, which differ from each other
in some few particulars, although all of them are ranked
as Partridges.
Two kinds of Partridges are known to the cook: the
European grey, and the French red-legged bird (bar-
tavelles), the latter being sometimes found in the eastern
Partridges — continued.
counties of Great Britain. The grey Partridge is con-
sidered the best for table when young, whereas the red-
legged Partridge is at its prime when mature. In selecting
grey Partridges, that is to say, those that are found chiefly
in our markets, care should be taken to examine the claws
and the beak, the condition of these very plainly indicating
the age of the bird. Those having tender unworn beaks
and sharp toes, with a fine skin over their legs, are
generally reliable. Partridge shooting commences in this
country on the 1st of September, and continues during the
winter months. Gamekeepers recognise old birds by a
horseshoe- shaped mark in the plumage of the breast.
Partridges should be cleaned and trussed as follows :
Pluck and singe the bird, empty it, and wipe it inside
and out ; cut the head off, but leave sufficient of the neck
Fig. 109. Trussing a Partridge.
skin to fasten back, cross the legs upon the breast keep-
ing them in position by tying them to a skewer passed through
the body (see Fig. 109) ; pass a skewer through the pinions
and the breast, threading the skinned head upon the skewer ;
the bird is then ready for stuffing.
Aspic of Partridges. — (1) Cut the fillets off the breasts of
a couple of Partridges, season each fillet with salt and
pepper, lay them in a buttered baking-dish, cover them
with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake them. When
the fillets are cooked, put them between two plates with
a weight on the top, and leave them until cold. Roast
the remainder of the birds, then cut off all the flesh, chop
it, put it in a mortar with an equal quantity of chopped
lean veal and the same each of butter and breadcrumbs
that have been moistened with stock and squeezed almost
dry. Pound the mixture until quite smooth, then mix with
it a small quantity of powdered sweet herbs, one whole
egg and one yolk, and a small quantity of game stock.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, and pass it through
a fine hair sieve. Butter a plain mould, turn the mixture
into it, and steam it for half-an-hour. Turn the forcemeat
out of the mould and leave it until cold ; then cut it into
slices, and then with the fillets into rounds of one size
and thickness. Slice some cooked truffles and some hard-
boiled white of egg. Pour a thin layer of liquid aspic jelly
into a plain mould, and leave it until it begins to set ;
then arrange tastefully over it some of the above ingre-
dients, pour in another layer of the jelly, then another
layer of meat, &c., and jelly again alternately until the
mould is full. Place the mould iu an ice-closet or other cool
place. When the jelly is firm, turn the contents of the
mould on to a dish garnished with sprigs of well-washed
parsley, chopped aspic, and halves of hard-boiled eggs, and
serve. See Fig. 110.
(2) Fillet six Partridges, and trim them ; put the minion
fillets in a buttered saute -pan, and cook them in the
oven. When done, take them out, and leave till cold. Fry
the large fillets in a little clarified butter, trim them
when cooked, and dip them in some chaudfroid sauce.
Decorate the inside of a round fluted cylinder-mould with
the minion fillets, putting one in each rib ; pour in a little
aspic jelly, and put in some truffles and hard-boiled white
of eggs cut in patterns. Arrange the large fillets in a
circle in the mould ; when the jelly has set, fill it gradually
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
94
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
with more jelly and leave it till set. Prepare a idee socle,
put it on a dish, and mask it with ravigote butter; turn
the contents of the mould on to it, arrange some croutons
and chopped aspic round the dish, and serve.
Ballotines of Partridge. — (1) Bone the birds carefully, lay
them open, and dust them over with salt, pepper, and
powdered sweet herbs. Prepare a sufficient quantity of
forcemeat with poultry livers, bacon, shallots, and sweet
herbs, and season it to taste with sal-t and pepper. Line
the inside of the birds with the forcemeat, then lay over
that a few thin strips of cold tongue, blanched pistachio-
nuts, and cooked truffles. Roll the birds up tightly, bind
each one hi a separate piece of cloth, put them into a
stewpan, moisten to their height with stock, and boil
gently for half-an-hcur. Drain the birds, remove the cloths,
bind them up again tightly, put them between two dishes
with a moderate weight on the top, and leave until
quite cold. When ready, unbind the birds, trim them
neatly, and brush them over with liquid glaze. Spread a
folded napkin or a fancy dish-paper over a dish, lay the
birds on it, garnish them with croutons of aspic jelly or
a circle of chopped jelly, and serve.
(2) Clean and bone five red Partridges. Cut some
tongue and truffles in dice, and mix them with galan
tine forcemeat. Stuff the Partridges with this, roll them,
and tie each one in a cloth ; put them in a stewpan with
some mirepoix, and cook them. When done, leave them
. till cool ; then drain, take them out of the cloths, put
them in fresh ones, and leave till quite cold. Take the
cloths off the ballotines, trim them at each end, and
glaze them until game glaze. Make a round rice socle
on a dish, mask it with montpellier butter, putting
a pat of it on the centre. Arrange the ballotines on the
socle. Make a small vase of prepared udder or fat, put a
crop ton of aspic jelly in it, and put it on the pat of
butter. Garnish the top of each ballotine with eroftfons
of aspic and chopped jelly, put some more croft tons round
the base of the circle, and serve.
Fig. 111. Boiled Partridges with Cream Sauce.
Boiled Partridges with Cream Sauce. — Pluck, singe, and
draw six birds without breaking the entrails, wipe them
For details respecting Culinary Processes,
Partridges — continued.
with a wet towel, and put them in a pan with suffi-
cient boiling water to cover ; add 1 table-spoonful of salt, and
boil them steadily and gently for fifteen minutes. Mean-
while put h pint of thick cream into a saucepan set in
a pan of boiling water, add to it 1 table-spoonful of butter
and J saltspoonful of white pepper, and stir one way
until the butter is melted ; then leave the sauce where it
will keep hot. When the Partridges are done, put them
on a hot dish, dry them with a soft cloth, pour the cream
sauce over (see Fig. Ill), and serve them hot, garnished
with sprigs of parsley.
Boudins of Partridge. — (1) Remove the skin and bone from
a Partridge, chop the meat, put it in a mortar, and pound
it until quite smooth. Put 2oz. of butter into a saucepan
with 2oz. of flour, and stir it over the fire until mixed;
then pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of stock, and continue
stirring it until boiling. Move the saucepan to the side
of the fire, mix hi the pounded meat, £ teacupful of cream,
and the yolks of four eggs. Season to taste with salt ami
pepper, return the saucepan to the fire, and stir the con-
tents until the eggs are set. Put the mixture on a dish,
spread it out, and leave it until cold. Wash eight or ten
truffles, put them in a saucepan, cover with cold water,
and boil for ten minutes. Drain and finely chop the
truffles, and mix them in with the forcemeat. Cut the
mixture into small equal-sized pieces, roll them into the
shape of pears, dip them in the well- beaten whites of
the eggs, and then roll them in finely-grated bread-
crumb, giving them a good coating. Put a lump of clari-
fied fat in a frying-pan, set it over the fire until blue
smoke rises, then drop in the boudins, and fry them until
lightly browned. As the boudins are cooked, put them on a
sheet of paper in front of the fire, and drain them thoroughly.
Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish paper over
a hot dish, pile the boudins in the centre, garnish them
with fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut the fillets off three young Partridges, trim off
the skin and sinews, and chop and pound the meat. Chop
and pound a boiled calf’s udder, pass it through a fine
hair sieve, and mix it with the pounded Partridge, adding
a third of the quantity of bread panada, binding together
with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and the whites
of two, and seasoning to taste with pepper, salt, and
allspice. Take a small portion of the forcemeat, roll it
into a ball with a little flour, and poach it in boiling
water to try the consistency. Divide the mixture into
small equal portions, and shape them into balls with
floured hands. Butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in
the puddings, cover them with boiling water, add a lump
of salt, and poach them. When done, drain the puddings,
and leave them till cold ; then dip them in frying-batter,
coat them thickly with grated breadcrumbs, and fry
in boiling fat. When nicely browned, drain the puddings
quite free of fat, put them on a hot dish, pour some
brown Italian sauce over, and serve. The puddings
can be broiled if preferred; in that case, dip them in
beaten yolk of egg instead of the batter, breadcrumb
them, brush them over with warmed butter, and bread-
crumb again. Arrange them on a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper placed on a hot dish, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Finely chop the remains of one or two cold roasted
Partridges, first picking out some of the best pieces of
meat and chopping it rather coarsely. Put the finest-
chopped meat in a mortar with an equal quantity of
chopped lean veal, the same each of butter and soaked
breadcrumbs, and pound the whole to a smooth paste ;
then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Return the mixture
to the mortar, season it to taste with salt, pepper, and
a moderate quantity of spices, moisten with a small
quantity of clear game broth, one whole egg and one
yolk, and mix all till perfectly smooth. Butter some
small dariole-moulds, and fill them with the mixture.
Make a hollow in the centre of each, which fill with the
coarsely-chopped meat, and cover with the forcemeat.
Stand the moulds in a flat stewpan with boiling water to
three parts their height, and steam them for three-quarters-
of-an-hour or a little less. When cooked, turn the boudins
see under their special heads .
Utensils , Sauces , &c., referred to,
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
95
Partridges — continued.
out of tlie moulds on to a hot dish, pour some game gravy
round them, and serve. The gravy may he made of the
trimmings of the birds.
(4) Prepare some Partridge forcemeat, mixing with it
some half-glaze and essence of Partridge. Fry an onion
cut in small dice in butter, but do not brown it ; then
mix it with the forcemeat. Cut some strips of paper
4in. long and 2 Jin. wide, and butter them ; put a piece of
forcemeat not quite so wide nor so long on each strip of
paper, and with the handle of a spoon work part of the
forcemeat to the centre of each boudin, so as to form a
hollow fin. deep and fin. wide. Put some salpiijon (made
with truffles, cooked fillets of Partridges and tongue, mixed
with Spanish sauce that has been stiffly reduced with
essence of Partridge) in the hollow, without quite filling
it, then fill it with forcemeat. Put the houdins in a
saute-pan with a little general stock and let them simmer
gently for a-quarter-of-an-hour. When cooked, drain the
boudins, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour
some reduced Spanish sauce over, and serve.
Braised Partridges. — Singe, draw, and truss three Partridges
as for boiling, put them in a stewpan with a slice of
chopped fat bacon and a bunch or faggot of sweet herbs
and fry them till nicely coloured all over ; then pour in a
little wine, put the lid on the stewpan with a few hot
ashes on it, and let them braise gently. When nearly
done put in with the Partridges Jib. of ham cut in dice,
and four large cloves of garlic that have been boiled
in plenty of water ; sprinkle a little Spanish red pepper
over, and continue cooking for about fifteen minutes.
When done, take the Partridges out, drain them, remove
the strings, put them on a hot dish, and garnish round
with the garlic and ham ; take the sweet herbs out of the
cooking-stock, skim the fat off, thicken it with a little
brown sauce, pour it over the Partridges, and serve.
Braised Partridges a la Cussy. — Chop some sweetbread,
boiled cocks’ combs, truffles, and mushrooms together. Remove
all the bones from the Partridges, with the exception of
the thigh bones and legs, stuff them until the chopped
sweetbread, &c., then sew them up, giving them their
original shape, and hold them until their breasts in front
of the fire till quite firm. Put a slice of ham in a braising-
pan, and when warm put in some chopped bacon, onions,
carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, the Partridge bones (which
should have been pounded in a mortar), a little salt and
pepper, and some stock and white wine, mixed in equal
quantities; cook the vegetables till soft, then put in the
Partridges. Cover them with a sheet of buttered paper,
put the lid on the braising-pan, with some hot coals on
the top, stand it over a slow fire, and cook the birds.
When done, put them on a hot dish. Strain the sauce
through a fine hair sieve, skim and boil it with a few
slices of truffles till reduced, then pour it over the Partridges,
and serve.
Braised Partridges a la Financiere. — (1) Singe, draw,
wipe, and truss two Partridges with their wings inside.
Lay a piece of pork-rind in a saucepan, adding one carrot
and one onion, both cut in slices, two bay-leaves, one
sprig of thyme, and the two Partridges, seasoning with 1
pinch of salt and J pinch of pepper. When the birds have
assumed a good golden colour on the hot stove, moisten
with J pint of broth, put the saucepan in the oven, and
cook for twenty minutes longer. Dress them on a dish,
untruss, pour over J pint of hot financiere, sauce, and
serve. The gravy from the Partridges can he utilised
for making the financiere sauce.
(2) Cook three Partridges as directed for Braised
Partridges a la Perigueux. Fry a three-sided block
of bread, fix it on a dish until a little paste made until
flour and white of egg, put a bird on each side, and fill
the spaces between them with some financiere ragoht.
Lean some crayfish, with the claws sticking upwards, on
each pile of the ragoftt, and put a larded and glazed
sweetbread _ on the top of the bread. Fill a sauceboat
with financiere sauce, and serve.
Braised Partridges a la Givry. — Draw some young Par-
tridges and truss them as for boiling, dip their breasts
Partridges — continued.
in boiling water, then refresh them in cold water; lard
them with thin strips of bacon, and put them in a stewpan
lined with far bacon. Pour in sufficient broth to reach to
half the height of the birds, put the lid on the stewpan
with some hot ashes on the top, and braise them for twenty
minutes. Put some rings of onions in a little white game
broth, and stew till tender. Cook some very black truffles
(they can be braised with the birds), then cut them
into rounds that will just fit in the rings of onions. Chop the
trimmings of the truffles, mix them with some Italian sauce,
and reduce it. When cooked, glaze the birds, drain them,
and- glaze them again. Put them on a hot dish, place
the rings of onions and the truffles three on each side of
the breast, using a little melted glaze for the purpose of
sticking them. Mix a small quantity of game glaze in
the sauce, pour it round, not over the birds, and serve.
Braised Partridges a la Perigueux. — Clean three Par-
tridges, and truss them as for boiling. Fasten some thin slices
of fat bacon round them, put them in a stewpan with
f pint of mirepoix and \ pint of essence of truffles, put
a sheet of buttered paper over them, stand the stewpan
over a slow fire, and let the contents simmer till the
Partridges are done. Cut a three-sided block of bread 3in.
high, 2 Jin. at the base, and I Jin. at the top, fry it, then
fix it in the middle of a dish with a paste prepared
until a little flour and white of egg. Drain the Partridges
when cooked, and place one on each side of the bread.
Shape three large Partridge forcemeat quenelles like
pears, and put one between each bird ; mix some essence
of Partridge with perigueux sauce, pour it over the birds,
put a large truffle on the top of the bread, fill a sauce-
boat with the same sauce, and serve it with the Partridges.
Braised Partridges a la Piedmontese. -Clean and truss
three Partridges, put some thin slices of lemon freed of
peel on the breasts, and tie some thin layers of fat bacon
round. Put in a flat stewpan a carrot, onion, and turnip,
cut in slices, some little pieces of ham and bacon, a bunch
of sweet herbs, J pint of white wine, and the Partridges.
When the liquid is boiling, move the stewpan to the side
of the fire and braise the birds, occasionally turning them.
When cooked, take the Partridges out, cut the strings
off, divide each into five pieces, and put them in a stew-
pan, which stand in a bain-marie ; skim the fat off the
liquor in which they were cooked, and put the backs of the
Partridges in with 1 pint of rich brown gravy and 1 tea-
cupful of sherry. Boil the liquor up, pass it through a
fine hair sieve, skim it again, and boil it till reduced to
half its original quantity; then stir a little thick tomato
sauce in. Pour the sauce over the pieces of Partridges,
and keep it hot without boiling in the bain-marie. Boil
some polenta in salt and water till thick, then stir in a
lump of butter and some grated parmesan cheese. Butter
a border mould, fill it with the polenta, and leave it till
set. When ready to serve, turn the border on to a dish,
put the legs of the Partridges in the centre, place the
breasts and fillets on the top, pour the sauce over, and
serve.
Braised Partridges a la Fortugaise.— Singe, draw, and
truss two Partridges with their legs inside, put them in
a saucepan with two slices of ham cut in large pieces,
three onions, one carrot, two or three cloves of garlic, a
piece of celery, a sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, and two or
three peppercorns and cloves; pour a little oil in, and fry
all over a brisk fire for eight or ten minutes ; then pour
in | pint of broth, and boil it quickly till reduced to
glaze. Add £ pint of vinegar and sufficient broth to
reach to three-parts the height of the birds, put a sheet
of oiled paper on them, place the lid on the saucepan
with some live embers on the top, stand it by the side of
the fire, and let the Partridges finish cooking. Put 3
teacupfuls of rasped breadcrumb in a frying-pan with a little
oil, and fry them till nicely browned and dried; then move
the pan off the fire, and drain out all the oil. When
cooked, take the Partridges out, pass their cooking-liquor
through a fine hair sieve, and skim the fat off. Move
the breadcrumbs on to the fire again, and mix with them
gradually the strained sauce. When boiling, move the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
96
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
pan to the side of the fire, and let the sauce simmer for
twenty-five minutes. At the end of that time it will he
sufficiently thick. Put the Partridges, which should have
been kept hot during the time the sauce was being pre-
pared, on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Braised Partridges a la Regence. — Truss six Partridges,
having previously singed and drawn them, put a thin slice
of fat bacon round each, place them in a braising-pan with
some mirepoix, and cook them. Prepare a rice socle on a
dish and put a plain block of rice in the middle of the
socle. Cook six small larded heart sweetbreads and six
chicken forcemeat quenelles, the same size as the sweet-
breads. Drain, and arrange the birds on the socle against
the block of rice, put a large turned mushroom on the top
and a truffle at the bottom of each bird. Put the sweet-
breads and quenelles alternately round the socle, and fill
up the spaces between the birds with cocks’ combs and
mushrooms. Stick six silver skewers garnished with cocks’
combs and crayfish in the top of the block (see Pig. 112),
and serve with a sauceboatful of sauce a la rdgence.
Braised Partridges and Cabbage. — (1) Truss a couple of old
Partridges as for boiled chickens. Put them in a saute -
pan, and brown them slightly over a brisk fire. Cut some
gammon of bacon and two onions into dice, put them in a
braising-pan with the Partridges, surround them with
stock, and braise till three parts done. Thoroughly wash a.
young cabbage, then blanch, drain, and dry it ; put it in
with the Partridges, and finish cooking them together.
When cooked make a bed of the cabbage on a hot dish
and put the Partridges on it with the pieces of bacon
round. Strain the cooking-liquor through a fine hair
sieve, boil it until reduced, keeping the Partridges hot
at the same time. When ready, pour the sauce round
and serve.
(2) Clean and truss a couple of old Partridges with their
legs inward. Put them in a pan with a little boiling water,
and let them simmer till the flesh is firm. Wash and
cut two large cabbages into quarters and blanch them
in boiling water, with 141b. of breast of bacon cut in
small pieces. When the cabbages are blanched, put them
in cold water till cool. Put the bacon in a small braising-
pan, then put in the birds, > cabbage well drained of
water, a few turned carrots, two or three onions, a
bunch of thyme and parsley, two or three bay-leaves, a
little allspice, salt and pepper ; put some slices of bacon
over and a sheet of buttered paper on the top, moisten
with a little well-seasoned broth, and put the braising-
pan over the fire till boiling, then move it to the side,
and let the contents simmer for three-hours-and-a-half.
Take out the bacon, carrots, and onions. Put a large
sieve over a dish of the same size, and place the birds in
the sieve. Mould the cabbages with a clean towel into a
large roll and squeeze them so as not to leave any fat. Get a
plain mould, line it with thin layers of the bacon, make a
kind of flower in the middle of the mould with the carrots,
and put a border of small glazed onions all round the top ;
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils,
Partridges — continued.
next take some of the cabbage with a spoon and fill the
mould with it, making a rosette of carrots on each side of the
mould, which should be full to the brim. Put the mould in
the oven for a short time. When ready to serve turn the
contents of the mould on to a hot dish, put a bird at each
end, and cover it with Spanish sauce.
(3) Prepare and truss two Partridges as for boiling, and
lard them with thin fillets of fat bacon; trim off the out-
side leaves of two large savoys, cut each into quarters,
wash them well, and partially boil them. Drain the savoys,
put them in a stewpan with the Partridges, an onion
stuck with three or four cloves, a small quantity of all-
spice, a hay-leaf, and a small bunch of sweet herbs, cover-
ing the whole with a few thin slices of bacon and moisten-
ing to height with stock. Put the lid on the stewpan,
and braise the contents at the side of the fire for an-hour-
and-a half. At the end of that time take the Partridges
out, brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in melted
glaze, and place them in the centre of a hot dish. Drain
the savoys, pressing them well, and arrange them round
the birds. Strain 1 pint of the cooking- liquor of the
birds into a small stewpan, and boil it quickly until
reduced to half -glaze ; then mix with it 1 breakfast-cupful
of brown sauce and 1 wineglassful of sherry, season it to
taste, and pour it over the cabbages. Serve while very hot.
(4) Prepare four birds, put them in a stewpan with some
trimmings of fat bacon, a few sliced vegetables, a bunch
of sweet herbs, salt and spices to taste, moisten them
to height with broth, and braise them. Trim off the out-
side discoloured leaves of a nice large cabbage, wash it in
several waters, divide it into four pieces, put it in a
saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt, a piece of
loaf sugar, and a small lump of soda, and boil it, keeping
the lid partly off' the saucepan. When cooked, drain the
cabbage well, put it in a saute -pan ■with butter, and
saute it. Put the cabbage on a hot dish, stalk to stalk.
Drain the Partridges, and lay them by it two on each
side (see Fig. 113). Strain the cooking-liquor of the birds
into a small stewpan, put a piece of glaze about the size
of a small walnut in it, and boil until somewhat reduced;
then pour it over the birds, and serve.
Braised Partridges with Game Puree. — Pluck, draw, and
truss two young Partridges with their legs turned inwards,
and lard the breasts with fillets of hacon. Line the bottom
of a flat stewpan with bacon, put in the birds with two
peeled onions, each stuck with two cloves, a small bunch
of parsley, and two bay-leaves ; cover the birds with a few
thin slices of bacon and a sheet of buttered paper, moisten
to height with white stock, and stew gently. When
cooked drain and glaze the Partridges, and brown their
breasts lightly under a salamander. Finely chop the livers
of the birds, ' put them in a basin with 4oz. of finely-
chopped beef suet, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of breadcrumbs, and
season with i table-spoonful of chopped thyme and parsley
in equal quantities, salt, pepper, and a small quantity of
nutmeg. Pound the chopped mixture well in a mortar,
bind it with beaten egg, spread thickly on two pieces of
toast, lay them in a buttered baking-dish, and bake
for twenty minutes. Chop and pound in the mortar about
lib. of cold cooked game. Put a chopped shallot in a
stewpan with ia small lump of butter, toss it over the
fire for a few minutes, then put in the pounded game ;
pour in 4 breakfast-cupfuls of half-glaze of game and
uces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
97
Partridges — continued.
1 teacupful of stock. Boil the sauce for ten minutes, and
season it with small quantities of salt and pepper and 4
teaspoonful of sugar. Place the pieces of toast on a hot
dish, put the birds on them, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Braised Partridges with Truffles. — Prepare and truss
three Partridges as for boiling, put them in a stewpan with
some mirepoix, and ccok them ; when done, drain, and
arrange them on a hot dish to form a hollow triangle.
Put round some sliced truffles that have been mixed in
supreme sauce, fill a sauceboat with supreme sauce, and
serve.
Broiled Partridges. — (1) Put Jib. of butter and 4 table-
spoonful of minced parsley into a stewpan : when it
has melted put in the Partridges and turn them about
over the fire until lightly browned. Take the birds
out, roll them in finely-grated breadcrumbs that have
been seasoned with minced parsley, salt, and pepper, lay
them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire. Prepare
the following sauce : Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan
with 1 teaspoonful of flour, mix them over the fire, and
stir in gradually 1 pint of milk; continue stirring until
boiling and thickened, then move the stewpan to the side
of the fire. Stir quickly into the sauce the yolk of an egg
that has been beaten up with a small quantity of water,
and season to taste with salt' and pepper. Put a can of
French peas into a saucepan of boiling water, and leave
them until they are hot; then turn them into the centre
of a hot dish, arrange the Partridges on the top, pour the
sauce round, and serve.
(2) The bird must not be high ; split it lengthwise down
the back, lay it open, and beat it as flat as possible with
a cutlet-bat. Brush it over on all sides with a paste-
brush dipped in olive oil, season it with salt and pepper,
lay it on a double gridiron, and broil it in front of a
clear fire, turning when done on one side. Lay the bird
on a hot dish, put a large piece of maitre d’hotel butter
on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Clean and truss two Partridges as for roasting, cut
them in halves, wipe them well, sprinkle plentifully
with pepper and salt, and broil them over a clear lire for
twenty minutes. When done, place the pieces of Partridge
on a hot dish, put a small lump of butter on each half,
and serve while very hot, with a sauceboatful of rich brown
gravy.
Broiled Partridges a l’Americaine. — Singe, draw, and
wipe neatly three tender Partridges ; cut them in halves,
lay them on a dish, and season with 1 pinch of salt, A
pinch of pepper, and 1 table-spoonful of oil. Boll them
in well, and put them to hroil for seven minutes on each
side. Prepare six slices of fried hominy, arrange them on a
hot dish, place the Partridges over, and pour 1 gill of
maitre d'hotel butter on top ; place six slices of broiled
bacon over the birds, and serve.
Broiled Partridges a la Chasseur. — (1) Draw and split
in halves three young and fresh Partridges, cut off the
tip of the legs, split the skin of the drum-stick, and thrust
the legs underneath ; slightly beat each half, sprinkle salt
and pepper over them, dip them in oil and then in bread-
crumbs, put them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear
fire, turning to do both sides equally. When cooked,
put them on a hot dish, pour round a little hot Madeira
sauce, and serve.
(2) Pluck, draw, and singe some fat young Partridges,
split them in halves lengthwise, sprinkle pepper and salt
over them, dip them in oil and breadcrumbs, put them on
a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire. Put a finely-
chopped onion and shallot in a saucepan with 3 table-
spoonfuls of streaky bacon cut in dice and two or three
sprigs of sweet herbs, and toss them over the fire for a
few minutes ; then put in 1 teacupful of chopped mush-
rooms, the chopped livers of the Partridges, and A- pint of
gravy. Boil the sauce for ten minutes. Work 2oz. of
butter with 2oz. of breadcrumbs, then put them in the
sauce and stir over the fire till thick. Mix a little glaze
with the sauce, then take it off the fire and add the
strained juice of two lemons. Arrange the Partridges on
a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Partridges — continued.
Broiled Partridges a la Crapaudine. — Empty, clean, and
truss the birds with their thighs inside their bodies ; singe
them to make the flesh firm, pinch the breast with the
left hand, and scallop it without quite reaching the skin.
Turn the flesh over on the table, beat the bird flat, sprinkle
salt and pepper over, dip it in clarified butter then in
breadcrumbs, again in the butter, and finish with the
crumbs. Broil them over a clear fire. When cooked,
arrange the Partridges on a hot dish, and serve with an
Italian sauce.
Broiled Partridge Cutlets with Colbert Sauce. — Chop
three tender Partridges each in halves lengthwise, sprinkle
salt and pepper over them, dip them in warmed butter, then
in breadcrumbs, put them on a gridiron, and broil over a
clear slow fire ; turn them when done on one side and finish
the other. When cooked, put the Partridges on a hot dish,
pour over them some colbert sauce, and serve.
Broiled Partridge Cutlets with Truffles.— Skin five
young Partridges, cut off the outside fillets and the small
inside ones, take the second skin off them, point the small
bone of the wing, and stick it into the end of the large
fillet ; season with salt and pepper, egg-and-breadcrumb
them, dip them in oiled butter and again in breadcrumbs,
and broil them over a very sharp lire. Fry the small
fillets lightly, make a forcemeat with them, and mix it
Fig. 114. Broiled Partridge Cutlets with Truffles.
with some glaze of game. Put the forcemeat in the
centre of the dish and arrange the broiled fillets round
it. Cover the fillets with game glaze. Garnish the dish
with croutons of fried bread (see Fig. 114), and serve hot.
Broiled Partridge's Legs.— Bone the legs of six uncooked
Partridges, leaving only the pinion-bones, and cutting the
claws at the joint. Put them in a deep frying-pan with a
lump of butter, and fry them till nicely browned on both
sides ; then put in with them a few chopped fresh mushrooms
and 2 table spoonfuls of chopped onions. Stand the frying-
pan at the side of the fire, and ccok the contents slowly
till almost diy; then take it oil', and leave all till cold.
Take the legs out, and mix with the mushrooms and onions
half the quantity of rasped bacon and 1 table-spoonful of
chopped truffles. Cover the legs with the above prepara-
tion, wrap each one separately in a sheet of paper that
has been dipped in oil, put them on a gridiron, and stand
it over a very clear, slow fire. The legs should be thoroughly
heated without blackening the paper. Arrange them on a
hot dish when done, and serve.
Celestines of Partridge. -This supreme dish is attributed to
Dubois. Cut in small dice the meat of two cold cooked
Partridges, and mix with it an equal quantity of cooked
truffles, also cut in dice. Cut the meat off the legs, and
finely chop it with a few cooked poultry livers ; pound it
in a mortar, then pass it through a fine hair sieve into a
small saucepan, and mix with it an equal quantity of tepid
game chaudfroid sauce. Stand the stewpan on ice and stir
the contents till thick, then put the chopped meat and truffles
in with it, take it oil the ice, flatten the preparation, and
cut it into twelve oval slices to the shape of a large
sandwich. Trim and coat the slices with a thick layer of
the above preparation, then stand them on ice till the
coating is quite firm. Dip the celestines one by one in
the chaudfroid sauce so as to cover them completely with
it (it should not be too thick, and quite smooth). Cut
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, £c., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
B
98
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges— continued.
some slices of cooked black truffles to an oval shape, and
put one on each of the celestmes. Mask the celestines
with aspic jelly, arrange them in a circular order on
a layer of aspic-jelly that has set on a dish, put some
cooked truffles in the circle, arrange some jelly croft tons
round the base, and serve.
Chartreuse of Partridge. — (1) Cut a cabbage into quarters,
wash it well, plunge it into boiling water, then steep it
in cold water for two hours. Drain and squeeze all the
water out of the cabbage, cut the stalks out, tie the pieces
together, and put them in a stewpan with two or three
slices of streaky bacon previously blanched ; pour some
general stock, mixed with essence of Partridge, over
it, put in some clarified fat, and finish as described for
Cabbage for Garnishing. Cut some carrots and turnips
into slices 2in. long with a vegetable -cutter, and cook
them separately as described for Garnishes. Put a round
of paper at the bottom of a plain entree-mould that has
been buttered, garnish it with the pieces of carrot and
turnip, and put, a layer of cabbage in the mould. Cut
up three roast Partridges, put four fillets on the cabbage,
then put another layer of the cabbage on them ; continue
with alternate layers of Partridge and cabbage till the
mould is full. Stand the mould in a bain-marie till the
contents are warm. When ready to serve, turn the char-
treuse on to an entree-dish, and arrange alternately round
the base some rounds of carrots and turnips, with a French
bean between each. Put some rings of turnip round the top of
the chartreuse, and put a Brussels sprout in each. Make
a sort of cup or vase with a carrot, fill it with French
beans, and place it in the centre. Reduce some Spanish
sauce with some essence of Partridge, fill a sauceboat with
it, and serve with the chartreuse.
(2) Empty and clean two full-grown Partridges (old ones
are the best, but they should be quite fresh), lard them
with bacon, and put them in a stewpan with a little well-
seasoned stock, some bacon cut in dice, and some sausages
cut in slices. Braise them till the Partridges are tender;
the bacon will require a little longer cooking. Partially
cook some cabbage, carrots, and turnips. Get a plain
mould that is not very deep, line it with the vegetables,
arranging them in patterns, put in the Partridges, sausages,
and bacon, pressing them down tightly, cover with a
sheet of buttered paper, stand the mould in a bain-
marie, and finish cooking.* Turn the chartreuse on to a
hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
(3) Cut the breast and wings of a pair of plump
Partridges into neat pieces ; break up the carcases of the
birds, put them with any trimmings into a saucepan, and
add a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of sliced shallots,
a sliced carrot, some trimmings of ham, a moderate quan-
tity of spices, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour in a
sufficient quantity of clear stock to cover all, and let it boil
gently at the side of the fire for two hours. Peel and boil sepa-
rately an equal quantity of turnips and carrots, drain them
before they are too much cooked, then with a small round
cutter cut the turnips and the red part of the carrots into as
many rounds as possible. If the vegetables are cut before
the bones are put on to stew, their trimmings can be used
to flavour the stock. A little sugar should be put in the
water that the vegetables are boiled in. Wash a nice
large cabbage, and boil it ; when tender, drain and press
out as much of the water as possible. At the end of
the two hours, strain the liquor from the bones into a
clean stewpan, put the wings and breasts of the Par-
tridges in it, and keep them simmering gently until
tender. Oil the interior of a plain round mould with
salad-oil, then line the mould with well-oiled paper cut
to fit it exactly, and cover the bottom with circles of
carrots and turnips, making each piece overlap the other
a little. When that is done, line the sides of the mould
in the same way, making the pieces keep in position by
pressing them with the fingers. Next line the mould with
some of the cabbage, fill the centre with the wings and
breasts of the Partridges, and moisten with a small quantity
of their cooking-liquor ; fill up the spaces between the
pieces of meat with cabbage, then over the top put what
cabbage there is left, and press it tightly down. Tie __ a
Partridges — continued.
sheet of paper over the top of the mould, stand it in a
saucepan with boiling water to three-parts its height,
and steam it for an hour. Boil the remainder of the
gravy until slightly reduced, and thicken it with a brown
roux. When the chartreuse is ready, remove the paper
off the top, put a hot dish in its place, and turn it
gently over. Leave it in that position for a minute or
two, then drain off' any water that may have run in the
dish, and carefully remove the mould. Pick all the
paper oft' the chartreuse, pour the gravy round it, and
serve.
Chartreuse of Partridges a la Moderne. — Pluck, singe,
and draw two Partridges, truss them with their legs forced
in, and lard them lengthwise with thin fillets of bacon.
Trim off the discoloured and outer leaves of two savoys,
cut them into quarters, wash them well, and boil for
five minutes ; then plunge them into cold water, drain
them well on a sieve, and squeeze as dry as possible
in a cloth. Cut out the stalks, and put the cabbages in
a stewpan with two onions, each stuck with three cloves,
one carrot, a bunch of parsley and thyme, two bay-leaves,
and fib. of streaky bacon. Pour in lqt. of white stock,
put the lid on the stewpan, and boil the contents gently
until the liquor has reduced to a thin glaze. Cover the
Partridges with sheets of buttered paper, and roast them
before a clear fire, keeping them well basted. When
cooked, remove the paper and trussing-skewers from the
birds, and put them in with the stewed cabbage, which
should be removed from the fire. Butter a large plain oval-
shaped mould, and line it with buttered paper. Peel
several large turnips and carrots, and cut them into thin
strips about tin. in length. Stew the carrots and turnips
separately in white stock with a small quantity of sugar,
and when tender drain them ; also peel and stew in the
same manner several small onions. Place a row of the
onions round the bottom of the mould, above them put a
row of the strips of carrots slantwise and touching each
other, next a row of turnips, then another of carrots, and
so on until the mould is full. Drain the cabbage, put a
thick layer of it at the bottom of the mould and a
thinner layer round the sides, place the Partridges in the
centre with the bacon cut into thin slices, and cover witli
a layer of the cabbage. Stand the mould in a saucepan
with boiling water to three-parts its height, care being
taken not to let the water enter the mould, and stand it
over the fire to get hot. Peel eighteen or twenty small
young carrots, turning them to the shape of pears ; put
them in a saucepan with a little sugar and white stock,
and boil them. Boil separately a small very white head
of cauliflower and 2 breakfast-cupfuls of green peas.
Prepare a thin border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish,
cut a little piece off the end of each carrot, and stick
them round on the potato border ; turn the chartreuse
into the centre, place the cauliflower on the top, and pour
the peas between it and the potato border. Strain the
cooking-liquor of the cabbage into a clean stewpan, mix
with it lqt. of brown sauce, and boil until reduced to
the consistency of half-glaze. Pour the sauce round and
carefully over the chartreuse, and serve. If a little care
and taste are exercised in the arrangement of this dish, the
effect will be very pretty.
Chaudfroid of Partridges. — (1) Cut off the legs and wings
from a couple of uncooked birds ; chop the carcases into
small pieces, put them in a mortar, and pound them. Put
the pounded carcases into a stewpan with some chopped
trimmings of bacon, one or two onions and carrots, a bunch
of sweet herbs, and a lump of butter ; season to taste with
salt, pepper, and spices, and toss the whole over the fire
for a few minutes. Moisten gradually with 2 wineglassfuls
of sherry, toss them about for a few minutes longer, then
pour in 1 } pints of clear stock ; move the saucepan to the
edge of the fire, and let it simmer for an-hour-and-a-half.
At the end of that time, strain the liquor into a basin,
and let it cool a little ; then skim off all the fat. Put 1
table spoonful each of flour and butter into a saucepan,
and stir them over the fire until mixed and browned ; then
pour the above liquor in slowly, and add 1 breakfast-cup-
ful of unclarified aspic jelly. Cut up two cold roasted
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
99
Partridges — con ti n tied.
Partridges as for serving, trim each joint neatly, and dip
them in the above sauce, coating them well. Leave the
Fig. 115. Chaudfroid of Partridges.
pieces of Partridges until the sauce lias cooled on them,
then arrange them in a pyramid on a dish, garnish with
chopped aspic jelly (see Fig. 115), and serve.
(2) Truss four Partridges, bind some buttered paper
round them, fix them on a spit, and roast without
browning them. When done, leave them till cold, then
take off all the skin, cut the meat in pieces, and dip each
piece in Partridge chaudfroid sauce. Put some decorated
minion fillets of Partridge in a round border mould, fill
it with aspic jelly, and leave it till set. Turn the border
out of the mould on to a dish, and put a block of fried
crumb of bread in the centre. Dip the pieces of Par-
tridges in the sauce again, and arrange them round the
bread. Garnish a silver skewer with a cock’s comb and
truffle, stick it in the top of the bread, and serve.
Chaudfroid of Partridges with Game Sauce. — Cut off the
breasts, wings, and legs from any uncooked game ; pound
the carcases in a mortar, then put them in a stewpan
with some chopped trimmings of bam or bacon, a bunch
of sweet herbs, one or two small onions and carrots, loz.
of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a moderate quantity
of spices. Toss the contents of the saucepan over the fire
until very hot, then pour in 2 wineglassfuls of Marsala,
and toss them about for a few minutes longer; add 1J
pints of clear stock, and simmer gently at the edge of
of the fire for an-hour-and-a-half. Strain the liquor, and
when somewhat cooled, skim off' all the fat. Put a lump
of butter in a saucepan with a moderate quantity of flour,
and stir over the fire until browned ; next stir in the
strained liquor and 1 teacupful of unclarified aspic jelly,
and when boiling move it to the side of the fire. Cut
two cold roasted Partridges into joints, trimming them
neatly and freeing them from all skin. Dip the pieces of
Partridges in the sauce, coating them well, and leave them
until the sauce is cold. Arrange the pieces of Partridges
in a pyramid on a dish, garnish them with croutons of
as [)ic jelly, or a border of the jelly, and serve. The wings
breasts, &c. of the birds can be utilised for fillets, stews, &c.
Chaudfroid of Partridges with Truffles. — Cut the breasts
off five or six cold roasted Partridges, divide each into
three pieces, and trim the skin and pinion-bones off. Pre-
pare some chaudfroid sauce with two-thirds of brown sauce
and one third of aspic jelly. Dip the pieces of Partridge
in the sauce, lay them on a dish, and leave them till
cool. Prepare a wooden stand with steps, mask it with
fat, and fix it on a dish, placing on top a small cast
subject in fat or stearine. Arrange the side fillets of the
breast on the lower step, upright and overlapping, and
surround them with a circle of chopped aspic ; put the
middle pieces of the breast on the upper step. Garnish
the base of the stand with some small folded paper-cases
each filled with a small glazed truffle, and serve.
Compote of Partridges. — Prepare these as for Comfote
of Partridges a Blanc, using, instead of broth, a little
veal gravy to moisten them. The onions should be fried in
butter till brown, then boiled in a little veal gravy. Truffles
and mushrooms should be put in the sauce previous to
reducing. Place the Partridges on a hot dish ; when the
sauce is thick enough, pour it over them, and serve.
Compote of Partridges A, Blanc. — Singe and truss four
young Partridges with their legs inward. Cut a little of
the breast of bacon in small pieces, and boil them for
half-an-hour in water. Drain the bacon, put it in a stew-
Partridges — continued.
pan, and fry lightly, but without colouring. Take the
pieces of bacon out of the stewpan, put the Partridges in
with a little more butter to the fat of the bacon, and fry
them. When the flesh is quite firm, take them out
(they should not be coloured). Put 1 table-spoonful of
flour in the stewpan, and fry it lightly ; pour in a little
broth, till the sauce is thin enough to be skimmed, then
put in some trimmings of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley
and thyme, a few green onions, two or three bay-leaves,
a clove, a little salt, a very small lump of sugar, and
the Partridges, and let the birds stew gently till done.
When cooked, drain, and put the Partridges in another
stewpan with the pieces of bacon. Skim and reduce the
sauce, strain it through a fine hair sieve over the
birds, and set the stewpan in a bain-marie. Have some
small white onions, previously boiled in a small quantity of
broth in which has been put a little sugar, also some mush-
rooms fried white in butter. Thicken the sauce with the
yolks of four eggs that have been beaten with a little cream
and lemon -juice, but do not let it boil after the eggs
have been added ; then put in the small onions, mush-
rooms, and pieces of bacon. Put the Partridges on a hot
dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Crepinettes of Partridge Fillets. — (1) Finely mince an equal
quantity of raw ham, fat bacon, and truffles, and mix with
it a little chopped shallot and 1 pinch of salt and pepper.
Cut the fillets oft' four young Partridges, and remove all
skin and bones. Split the fillets on the thick part, and
stuff them with the mince. Cut some pig’s caul into
squares, wrap one round each fillet, dip them in melted
lard and then in breadcrumbs, put them on a gridiron,
and broil over a clear moderate fire. When done one
side, turn them and finish the other. They will require
from twelve to fourteen minutes’ cooking. Put the crepi-
nettes on a hot dish, pour a little half-glaze round them,
and serve.
(2) Cut the fillets off' the bones of some young Par-
tridges, trim off the skin, and split open the thickest
part. Finely chop in equal quantities some raw ham, raw
truffles, fresh fat bacon, and a small quantity of shallot.
Season the mixture with salt and pepper, and stuff the
split fillets with it. Season the fillets, lay a few thin
slices of raw truffles on each, and wrap them separately
in a square of pig’s caul, fastening them securely at the
ends ; dip them in melted lard, then roll them in bread-
crumbs, put them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear
moderate fire, turning when done on one side and cooking
Fig. 116. Crepinettes of Partridge Fillets
the other. They will take from ten to fifteen minutes.
Arrange the fillets on a hot dish, baste them with a
small quantity of half-glaze, garnish \\ ith fried parsley
(see Fig. 116), and serve.
Curried Partridges. — Cut some Partridges into pieces,
disjointing them as when served at table, put them in a
saucepan with three sliced onions and a lump of butter,
and fry them till well browned. Mix 1 table-spoonful of
flour with 1 table-spoonful of Madras curry powder, put
it in the saucepan with 1 table-spoonful of butter, and
stir it over the fire till mixed ; then pour in gradually,
while still stirring, 1 pint of stock ; put in three apples, a
small cabbage heart, and one pickled capsicum, all finely
minced, the juice of a lemon, a little salt, and b pint of
cream. Put the cover on the saucepan, stand it at the
side of the fire, and stew the contents till done. When
cooked, take the pieces of Partridge out, and arrange them
on a hot dish ; boil the sauce till reduced, then pour it over
the birds, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Epigramme of Partridges. — Cut the large fillets off two
roasted Partridges, leaving the minion fillets on the birds ;
it 2
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100
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
trim the fillets and put them in a frying-pan with a little
butter. Cut the minion fillets off, lay them on the table,
and slightly beat them ; trim them like the others, fix
them together, two and two, using a little forcemeat to
fix them, sprinkle salt and pepper over, and put them in
with the large fillets. The forcemeat should be prepared
with the flesh of a raw Partridge and a few trimmings
of poultry. Put the bones and backs, broken up into
small pieces, into a saucepan with two or three slices of
carrots, turnips, and onions, two or three little pieces of
ham, a few sprigs of sweet herbs, and some Madeira
wine and gravy mixed in equal quantities ; simmer for
lialf-an-hour, then skim the fat off the liquor, pass it
through a fine hair sieve, and with it prepare a little brown
sauce. Sprinkle some flour on the table, put the force-
' meat on it, cut it into six equal portions, roll them out
to a pear shape, and flatten them. Butter the inside of a
stewpan, put the pieces of forcemeat in it, pour some
water in, add a small lump of salt, and poach them.
When cooked, drain and leave them till cool; then dip
them in beaten egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, put them
in a frying-pan with a little warmed butter, and fry
on both sides till nicely browned. Fry the fillets to
lightly colour them, but not to overdo them. Drain the
fillets and pieces of forcemeat when done, arrange them
alternately in a circular order on a hot dish, fill the centre
with some minced mushrooms that have been mixed with
the sauce, and serve.
Escabecliar of Partridges. — This famous Spanish dish is a
great favourite. Singe three Partridges, divide each into five
parts, and put them in a saute -pan with a gill of oil and
sweet herbs, a few peppercorns and cloves, and two un-
peeled cloves of garlic ; fry the pieces of Partridges till
nicely browned, then pour in some broth mixed with a
little vinegar, and move the pan to the side of the fire so as
to let the contents cook quickly. Take the pieces of
Partridges out when very tender, and put them on a dish.
Stir into the cooking liquor 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of aspic
jelly and boil it for three minutes longer; then pass it
through a fine hair sieve over the Partridges. This dish
is to be served cold.
Essence of Partridge. — Break up the bones of six Partridges
(having first removed the fillets and put them by for
further use), and place them in a saucepan with a carrot, an
onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a
small quantity of grated nutmeg, and 1 pint of Madeira.
Boil the wine till reduced to a glaze, then pour in 3qts.
of broth. Boil it up, move it to the side of the fire, and
let it simmer for an-hour-and-a-half. Strain the essence
through a broth-napkin, skim it well, and bottle for use.
Pillets of Cold Partridges Glazed. — Fillet some cold roasted
Partridges, and put all the meat oft’ the carcases in a
mortar with a few mushrooms and truffles. Put the bones,
the trimmings off the truffles, some eschalots, and a laurel-
leaf in a saucepan with \ pint of white wine, and boil it
till reduced to three-quarters the original quantity. Strain
the sauce through a fine hair sieve, and mix 2 table spoonfuls
of clear stock with it. Put half of the sauce in a sauce-
pan with the pounded meat, &c., and stir it with a wooden
spoon over the fire till boiling ; then pass it through a fine
hair sieve, and leave it till cold. Arrange the fillets round
an entree-dish, with alternate slices of truffles cut in the
same shape, turn the puree in the centre, pour the remainder
of the sauce over, put some croutons of clear meat jelly
round, and serve.
Fillets of Partridges a la Financiere. — Trim and lard the
fillets of six Partridges with thin strips of fat bacon, put
them in a saute -pan with a little melted glaze, and cook
them. Make a croustade of paste, the same size as the
dish on which the fillets are to be served and 2in. deep.
Prepare a financiere ragout of foies gras, truffles, mush-
rooms, cocks’ combs and kernels, and chicken forcemeat
quenelles, mixed in financiere sauce. Trim the minion
fillets into scallops, and mix them in the ragout, half of
which should be turned into the croustade. Arrange the
fillets on it in a circle, pile the remaining ragout in the
centre, and serve with a sauceboatful of financiere sauce. -
Partridges — continued.
Fillets of Partridges a la Florentine.— Cut the fillets off
the breasts of some cold roasted Partridges, trim them
nicely, put them in a stewpan with some white stock and
a small piece of glaze, and make them hot. Take the fillets
out, and reduce the stock to a glaze. Put 1 pint of half-
glaze of game into a saucepan and boil it till reduced to
a third its original quantity; then mix with it the glaze
in which the fillets were warmed, some dressed cocks’ combs,
and an equal quantity each of blanched mushrooms and
small French truffles, adding a little sugar. Put the fillets
in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce, cocks’ combs, &c.,
in the centre, and serve while very hot.
Fillets of Partridges d la Toulouse. — Cut the fillets off
six Partridges, and trim and curve them slightly ; put the
large ones in one buttered saute-pan and the minion fillets
in another. Stick a little piece of truffle with the white
of egg on the round ends of each of the small fillets. Fry
the large fillets, and when cooked drain and arrange them
round a croustade on a hot dish. Cook the small fillets
in the oven, and when done put in a circle on the others.
Fill the croustade with cocks’ kernels mixed in supreme
sauce, pour some supreme sauce over the fillets, and serve.
Fillets of Partridges with Lentils. — Remove the fillets
from some Partridges, skin them, beat them lightly, and
trim them to a nice shape. Season the fillets with salt
and pepper, lard them, wrap each in a slice of fat
bacon, and then in a sheet of paper. Thickly spread the
interior of a saute-pan with butter, lay the fillets in it,
and cook them in the oven for eight or ten minutes.
Prepare some Partridge forcemeat, put it into a buttered
border mould, and poach it in a bain-marie. The inside
of the mould can be decorated with fancy-shaped pieces
of truffles. Turn the border out on to a hot dish, and
when the fillets have been divested of the paper and bacon
arrange them on it ; fill the centre with a puree of lentils,
pour a little melted glaze over it, and coat over the
border and fillets with Spanish sauce that has been re-
duced with essence of Partridge.
Fillets of Partridges Sautes. — Procure four young Par-
tridges (rather stale if possible, as they will then have
more flavour), flay them, and separate the small inside
fillets from the upper ones ; remove all the sinews from
the small fillets, and flatten them with the handle of a
knife dipped in cold water ; then dip the blade in, and
take off the second skin of the fillets with it. Trim and
arrange the large fillets in a sautd-pan, put the small ones
over them, place a lump of butter on the top, sprinkle a little
salt over, and leave them till ready to fry. Put the rem-
nants of the birds in a stewpan with some thin slices of
veal and ham, pour in a little stock broth (see Broth),
and let it heat slowly over the fire ; then pour in some
boiling broth, a few mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and
two or three green onions, and let it simmer by the side
of the fire for an-hour-and-a-half. Strain the liquor
through . a fine hair sieve into another stewpan, and re-
duce it to glaze. Fry the fillets in the saute-pan over
a brisk fire, browning them equally all over ; drain
the butter off, put in 4 or 5 table-spoonfuls of bechamel
sauce and an equal quantity of the above glaze of game,
and stir them over the fire, but do not allow it to boil ;
then pour in a little thick cream, adding more seasoning
if required. Cut as many slices of bread as there are
fillets, and fry them till nicely browned on both sides in
butter. Arrange these croutons of bread on a hot dish,
put a large fillet on each, then a smaller one on the top,
pour the sauce over, and serve.
Fillets of Partridges with Small Vegetables. — Cook in
front of a clear fire some young Partridges, keeping them
rather underdone ; leave them till nearly cold, then remove
the fillets from the breasts, trim each fillet, and put them
in a flat stewpan with a small piece of glaze and sufficient
white stock to cover them. When the liquor boils, take
the fillets out, keep them hot, and reduce the liquor to a
glaze. Peel and cut some carrots, turnips, and button-
onions into small rounds, using a vegetable-cutter for the
purpose, and boil all separately in water till partly cooked.
Drain them, put them in a saucepan 'with a little
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
101
Partridges — continued.
butter and sugar, and stir about for a few minutes ;
then pour in the glaze from the saute-pan, 1 pint of game
sauce, and barely J pint of broth. Cook the vegetables
till quite tender, then skim the sauce and turn it into
the centre of a hot dish on which lias been placed a
border of mashed potatoes. Glaze the fillets, arrange
them on the potatoes, and serve.
Fillets of Partridges with Truffles. — (!) Cut the fillets off
the breasts of some Partridges, making four fillets of each
breast ; trim them to a nice shape, lay them in a thickly-
buttered baking-tin, dust them over with salt, and cover
with a sheet of buttered paper. Slightly roast the birds
from which the fillets have been removed, cut them
into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a few
trimmings of ham, two or three cloves and peppercorns, a
bunch of sweet herbs, two shallots, salt to taste, and
a sufficient quantity of clear stock to cover ; 1 wineglass-
ful of claret may he also added if l.ked. Let the whole
boil gently at the side of the fire for an-hour-and-a-half
or two hours. At the end of that time put loz. of butter
and toz. of flour into a stewpan and mix them over the
fire. Skim and strain the liquor from the birds and stir it
in gradually with the butter and flour ; put in a few
button mushrooms and truffles, and boil them gently until
cooked. Put the fillets in the oven and bake them until
just set. When the truffles and mushrooms are cooked,
take them out of the sauce and pile them in the centre
of a hot dish ; drain the fillets from the butter, arrange
them round the truffles, pour the sauce over them, and
serve.
(2) Cut the fillets off’ four roasted Partridges, trim them, [
put them in a stewpan with a piece of butter, and warm
them. Turn the trimmings and carcases into a mortar, pound
them, then mix them with a little stock : put the mixture
in a saucepan, stir it over the fire till warm, pass it
through a fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan with
3 table-spoonfuls of stock, and boil it till reduced to half-glaze.
Cut the fillets of Partridges into scallops, and put them in
the sauce with tlb. of truffles previously cooked in a
little butter ; warm them, but do not let the sauce boil
again. Turn the fillets, &c., on a hot dish, garnish with
croutons of fried bread, and serve.
(3) Cut the fillets and minion fillets off six Partridges ;
trim and put the large fillets in one buttered saute -pan
and the minion fillets in another; they should all be
slightly curved. Put a small piece of tongue on the
round end of each minion fillet. Cook the minion fillets
in the oven, and fry the large ones. Arrange the large
fillets in a circle round a croustade, alternating each one
with a thin slice of truffle cut the same shape. Put the
minion fillets on the large ones. Fill the croustade with
truffles turned to an olive shape, pour some half-glaze
over them, and serve with a sauceboatful of supreme
sauce.
Fried Partridges. — (1) Singe some young Partridges, cut
off their claws, and truss them with their legs inward.
Cut some breast of bacon into small pieces, and boil them
for half-an hour ; then drain them, put them in a frying-
pan, and fry without browning them. Put the Par-
tridges in with the bacon-fat and a lump of butter,
and fry them till firm, but keeping them white. Put 1
table-spoonful of flour into a saucepan, drain the frying-fat
into it, and stir it over the fire till mixed, but not coloured ;
then pour in gradually some chicken broth. The sauce
must be thin, so as to be able to skim it. Flavour the
sauce with some mushrooms, a bunch of spring onions, a
bunch of thyme and parsley, two bay-leaves, a few cloves,
and a small lump of salt and sugar. Put the birds into
the sauce with the pieces of bacon and stew them till tender.
When cooked, take the birds and pieces of bacon out
of the sauce, put them together in a stewpan, and
stand this in a bain-marie. Skim the fat off the sauce,
boil it till reduced somewhat, then strain it through a
fine hair sieve over the birds. Boil some small white
onions till tender in stock broth, adding a small lump of
sugar. Put some mushrooms in a frying-pan with butter,
and fry them without colouring. Place the stewpan
containing the Partridges over the fire. Boil the sauce
Partridge s — con tinued.
up again, move it to the side of the fire, stir in the
yolks of four eggs that have been beaten together with
a small quantity of cream and lemon juice, and add the
mushrooms and onions. Put the Partridges on to a hot
dish, pour the sauce, &c., round them, and serve.
(2) Clean two Partridges. Cook the livers, chop them,
and mix with them 1 pinch of chopped onion and parsley,
a little crumb of bread that has been soaked and pressed,
and season with salt and pepper. Stuff the Partridges
with this, truss them, put them in a stewpan with a lump
of butter, and fry over a quick fire until nicely browned.
When done (they will take from fifteen to twenty minutes)
sprinkle a little salt over, take them out, drain and untruss
them, and put them on a hot dish. Fry a pinch of chopped
shallots for a few minutes in the stewpan that the birds
were cooked in, then add 2 handfuls of breadcrumbs, and
slightly fry them. Stir in gradually 1 teacupful of broth
and a little glaze, boil it, then take it off the fire, squeeze
Fig. 117. Fkied Pautridues.
in the juice of two lemons, add a little pepper and 1 pinch of
parsley, pour it over the Partridges, which should have
been kept hot, garnish with cooked mushrooms and fried
parsley, and serve. See Fig. 117.
Fried Partridges a la Portugaise. — Singe and draw some
Partridges, cut them into joints, and put them in a frying-
pan with a sliced Spanish onion, a clove of garlic, and
just sufficient oil to cook them in ; fry till nicely
browned, then stir in a little thick tomato sauce. Simmer
the whole over the fire for a few minutes longer, then
turn them on to a hot dish, garnish with stoned olives, if
liked, and some crofitons of fried bread, and serve.
Galantines of Partridges. -(1) Singe, draw, and bone three
Partridges. Prepare some game forcemeat with the
flesh from the legs and an equal quantity of ham. Peel four
truffles, cut them in dice, and mix them with the forcemeat,
seasoning well. Sprinkle pepper and salt inside the Part-
ridges, stuff them with the forcemeat, roll them round, and
sew them up. Tie each one in a cloth, put them in a sauce-
pan of boiling stock, and boil them for an-hour-and-a-
quarter. Take the galantines out, and leave them till
cold. Trim and cut the galantines into small slices with-
out separating them, dip a paste-brush in melted glaze,
and brush them over. Embed three galantine -moulds in
pounded ice, and pour at the bottom of each a thin layer
of clear aspic jelly ; when the jelly has set, put a galan-
tine in each mould, pour gradually round them some
aspic jelly till the moulds are full, then leave them in
the ice till the jell}1' has set. Mould some fancy subject in
fat, and fix it in the centre of a pain-vert on a dish. When
ready to serve, dip the moulds in tepid water, wipe them,
and turn the galantines out round the design. Fill some
small fancy paper cases with cooked truffles that have been
glazed, arrange them round the base of the pain-vert, and
serve.
(2) Clean and bone three Partridges, stuff them with a
salpi9on of tongue and truffles mixed with a little galantine
forcemeat, and roll them. Mask the interior of three
Partridge galantine -moulds with aspic jelly, decorate each
rib with some hard-boiled white of egg and truffles cut
in patterns, set the moulds in ice, pour in a layer of
aspic jelly Him in thickness, and leave it till set. Trim
and glaze the Partridge galantines with game glaze, put
one in each mould, and fill them up with aspic jelly.
Cover the moulds with a baking-slieet, put some ice on
the top, and leave them. Prepare a round rice socle on a
dish, mask it well with ravigote butter, turn the galan-
tines out of the moulds on to the socle, put some croutons
of meat jelly round the base of the socle, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Lc., referred to, see under their special heads.
102
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
(3) Pluck and bone eight Partridges, spread them out
on the table, coat them with a thick layer of game force-
meat, then sew them up, giving them a round shape ; tie
the birds separately in some small cloths, put them in a
stewpan with some vegetables and a bunch of sweet
herbs, cover with broth, and boil gently. When tender,
which can be ascertained by running a larding-needle
into the flesh, drain the birds, put them on a deep
dish, place another dish over them with a weight on the
top, and leave them till cold. Fix a pain-vert on a dish,
with a support of fat, or of wood masked with fat, in the
centre. When quite cold, remove the cloths oil' the birds,
and coat them all over with a light brown chaudfroid
sauce. Decorate the galantines with a row of cooked
truffles cut into small squares on each side of the breast,
and glaze them over with aspic jelly. Place the birds on
the pain-vert leaning lengthwise against the support of
fat. Fix a garnished attelette- skewer in each, and garnish
the base of them with truffles. Arrange croutons of aspic
jelly round the base of the pain-vert, place the dish on a
decorated stand, and serve.
(4) Having prepared and cooked a galantine of Par-
tridge and allowed it to become cold, cut it across into
slices of a moderate thickness, and trim them to an equal
size and an oblong shape; dip a paste-brush in melted
glaze, brush them over, and put a slice of cooked truffle
in the centre of each. Put the galantines side by
side in a saute-pan that has been coated at the bottom
with a layer of aspic jelly and allowed to set ; stand the
saute-pan on ice, pour between the galantines some cold
liquid aspic jelly, allowing it just to reach the height of
the slices, and leave it till well set. When ready to
serve, cut through the jelly round the slices with the
point of a knife, dip the bottom of the saute-pan in warm
water, then take the galantines out with the jelly, arrange
them on a dish, and garnish with croutons of aspic.
(5) Bone the birds, stuff them with a game forcemeat,
roll to a round shape, and sew them with packthread.
Tie each bird separately in a cloth, put them in a
stewpan with sufficient broth to cover, and cook them
slowly. When the birds are tender, drain them, place
them between two dishes with a weight on the top
to keep them in shape, and leave them till cold. When
cold, unwrap the birds, glaze them, and cut them into
slices of the same size and thickness. Pour a thin layer
of aspic jelly into a square shallow baking dish, and place
it on ice till firm ; then lay the slices side by side on the
jelly, and pour round to the level of each some almost
cold aspic jelly which should not come over the slices.
When the jelly is quite firm, place the baking-sheet over
some hot water, and with the point of a knife cut round
each galantine, and take it off. Arrange the galantines
in a crown on a stand of fat, which should be slightly
concave, round in form, and ornamented with a friese
cut with a knife. Put a small support that has been
coated with aspic jelly in the centre, and round that place
some fillets of very red tongue masked with red jelly.
Garnish an attelette-skewer with a round truffle and a cock’s
comb. Place the dish on an ornamented stand, and serve.
Minced Cold Partridge. — Cut off the meat from a cold
roasted Partridge, mince it very fine, put it into a sauce-
pan with Hoz. of butter and loz. of flour, and fry to a
light brown. Add the liver and broken-up carcase of the
bird, also a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and two shallots
Fig. 118. Minced Cold Partridges.
stuck with a clove each, and continue to cook until the
whole is well coloured ; then pour in 1 teacupful of rich
stock, reduce it to half, strain it, and add it to the mince
again, having removed the carcase and liver ; stir until
Partridges — continued.
it is quite smooth and thick and as hot as possible without
boiling. Pour it out on to a dish, and serve with poached
eggs and croutons of fried bread. See Fig. 118.
Minced Cold Partridges served in a Loaf of Bread. —
Mince the fillets of some roasted Partridges. Put some
butter and a little flour into a frying-pan; when hot, add
to it the livers and lights of the birds, a leaf of sage, a
bay-leaf, three shallots, and a clove, and let these simmer
two or three minutes; then add 1 pint of stock, and let
this boil gently till it is reduced to 4 pint. Strain it, put
it into a saucepan with the minced Partridges, and stir it
over the fire till it is thick and smooth. Take a well-
shaped loaf weighing about lib., make a hole in it, and
through this scoop out the crumb ; rub the outside of the
loaf with a little butter, and put it in the oven for a few
minutes to dry. When dry, take it out of the oven, and
fill it with the minced Partridges ; then put the loaf bottom
upwards into a saucepan with 1 teacupful of veal broth,
and leave it over the fire until the bread is sufficiently
soft to be pierced with a straw. Put it on to a dish, and
garnish either with poached or hard-boiled eggs.
Minced Cold Partridges with Partridge Balls and
Truffles. — Cut the meat off two small cooked Partridges,
chop it, then put it in a mortar and pound together with a
piece of butter; mix with it 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of gravy
that has been prepared with the bones and backs of the Par-
tridges; season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and pass
it through a fine hair sieve. Finely chop the flesh of a
raw Partridge, and mix with it half its quantity of panada,
a little butter, and the yolks of two eggs. Put the minced
Partridge-flesh, &c., in a biscuit-forcer, and with it squeeze
symmetrically round the bottom of a dish some small round
balls. Trim some truffles to rounds, cook them for two
or three minutes in hot wine and melted glaze, drain, and
put one on each of the balls; cover the dish with a sheet
of buttered paper, put it in an oven, and bake them for
ten minutes. Put the puree in a saucepan, and stir it over
the fire till thoroughly hot, but do not let it boil. Take
the dish out of the oven, remove the buttered paper, brush
the truffles over with melted glaze, fill the centre with
the puree, pour a little melted glaze over it, and serve.
Partridges a la Crapaudine. — Split the birds open down
the back, beat them flat, and put them in a stewpan with
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and a small quantity
of chopped parsley, and toss them about for a few minutes
over a brisk fire. Take them out of the oil, roll them in
breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with salt and pepper,
lay them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire.
When cooked, put the Partridges on a hot dish on a bed
of tartar sauce, and serve them.
Partridges a la Mecklenburg. — Clean three large but
young Partridges, leaving the skin long at the neck to
lap over. Prepare 41b. of game forcemeat, mix with it
3 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked ham, 1 table-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the beaten yolks of two
eggs, and. ^ teacupful of thick cream; add a small quantity
of grated nutmeg, and mix well. Stuff the breasts of the
birds with the forcemeat, wrap each in thin slices of fat
bacon and then in sheets of oiled paper, tie them round
with twine, and lay them side by side in a stewpan, with
two peeled onions, an apple, and a bunch of parsley ; pour
over them 1 pint of stock and 4 pint of bucellas wine,
place the stewpan over a moderate fire until the liquor
begins to boil, then put it in the oven. In three quarters-
of-an hour take the birds out of the paper and bacon, put
them on a dish, and keep them hot whilst preparing the
following sauce : Strain the cooking- liquor through a fine
hair sieve into a clean saucepan, skim it well, and boil it
until reduced to half its original quantity. Mix 2 tea-
spoonfuls of arrowroot smooth with a little cold stock, then
stir it into the reduced liquor, and add 4 teacupful of
tomato sauce. Continue boiling and stirring it until
reduced to a half glaze. Stir 1 small table-spoonful of
red-currant jelly in the sauce, pour it over the birds, and
serve. The sauce should be highly seasoned.
Partridges a, la Princess Beatrice. — Prepare three Par-
tridges, truss them for roasting, and lard their breasts with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
103
Partridges — continued.
thin strips of fat Cumberland smoked bacon. The larding
can be done in a fancy design. Lay the birds in a basin
with some verjuice, and leave them for an hour or two.
When ready, drain and wipe them very carefully on a dry
cloth, without disturbing the pattern of the larding. Butter
some sheets of gril ling-paper, wrap each bird separately
in it, fix them on a spit, and roast in front of a
clear fire, keeping them well basted. In about half-an-
liour remove the paper and brown the birds. Lay them
on a hot dish, garnish with watercress and barberries,
and serve with a clear sauce.
Partridges a la Supreme. — Singe, draw, wipe neatly, and
remove the skin from the breasts of three Partridges ;
make an incision on the top of each breast-bone from end
to end, then with a keen knife carefully cut off the entire
breast on both sides, including the small wing-bone, which
should not be separated from the breasts, and seeing that
the entire breasts are cleanly cut away, without leaving a
particle of meat on the carcases. Under each breast will
be found a small fillet, which remove, and place on a
dish for further use. With a small, sharp knife, make an
incision in each breast at their thinner side 3in. in length
by lin. in depth. Season the inside of each breast with
1 pinch of salt and J pinch of pepper, equally distributed.
Stuff the breasts with 2oz. of chicken forcemeat mixed
with two finely-sliced truffles and four finely-sliced mush-
rooms. Butter well a well- tinned copper saute -pan, and
gently lay in the six breasts ; take the small fillets, press
them gently with the fingers, giving them a boat-like
form, make six slanting, small incisions on top of each, and
insert in each a small slice of truffle cut with a tube Jin.
in diameter. Lightly wet the top of each breast with
water, then lay one fillet on top of each lengthwise.
Sprinkle a little clarified butter over all, using a feather
brush. Pour into the pan (not over the supreme) J wine-
glassful of Madeira wine and 2 table-spoonfuls of mushroom
liquor, tightly cover the pan with a lid, and place it in
the hot oven for ten minutes. Pour in a hot dish 1 pint
of hot Toulouse garnishing, remove the supreme from the
oven, neatly dress over the garnishing, adjust paper nifties
on each wing-bone, and serve immediately.
Partridge Cheese or Pain. — Trim the fillets taken from
six Partridges, and cut them into small pieces. Put an equal
quantity of fat bacon cut in dice in a saute -pan, toss it
over the fire till melted, then put in the pieces of meat,
some thyme, a bay-leaf, a little parsley, and pepper and salt.
Fry all for a few minutes over a sharp fire, then turn it into
a mortar with half the quantity of bread panada; pound
them well, then press the whole through a fine hair sieve,
and mix with it J- pint of Spanish sauce that has been
reduced with a little essence of Partridge, three eggs, and
a few truffles cut in small dice. Fill a buttered plain round
cylinder- mould with the forcemeat, and also a small plain
round mould. Stand the moulds in a bain-marie and
poach the pains. When cold, turn the pains out of the
moulds, and trim and glaze them with game glaze. Prepare
a round rice socle on a dish, mask it with montpellier butter,
and put the large pain on it first, the smaller one on the
top. Garnish round the socle with croutons of aspic jelly,
put a crouton on the top of the pain, and serve.
Partridge Cheese (Pain) with Olives. — With the flesh of
two Partridges prepare a quenelle forcemeat, pass it through
a fine hair sieve, and mix with it 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls
of brown sauce which has been reduced with a little meat
glaze and wine. Cut some black truffles into small dice,
and sprinkle them round the sides and bottom of a plain
cylinder-mould that has been buttered. Stand it on ice
for ten minutes, then fill the hollow with the forcemeat,
set the mould in a bain-marie, and poach it. Take the
mould out, wipe it, turn the contents on to a hot dish,
and fill the hollow with stoned and blanched olives (see
Fig. 119). Pour over the pain some rich brown sauce that has
been reduced with Partridge fumet and Madeira wine,
and serve.
Partridge Collops. — Cut the fillets oft' four Partridges,
collop them, put them in a saucepan with a little butter,
and cook ' till firm ; take the collops out, drain the
Partridges — continued.
butter out of the saucepan, and put in 3 table-spoonfuls
of game stock and 2 table-spoonfuls of German sauce ;
when boiling, put in some peeled mushrooms or sliced
truffles, a lump of butter, the strained juice of one lemon,
and the collops. When ready, arrange the collops in a
circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce in the centre, and
serve.
Fig. 119. Partridge Cheese with Olives.
Partridge Collops a la Chef de Cuisine. — Cut the flesh
of the bird into nice shaped pieces, put them in a frying-
pan with a lump of butter, and fry to a pale brown.
Season some potato-flour with salt and pepper, and roll
the fried fillets in it ; next brush them over with beaten
egg, roll them in breadcrumbs and minced truffles, lay
them on a balting-disli, and put them in a brisk oven.
Pour 2 breakfast-cupfuls of stock into a small saucepan
with a piece of glaze about the size of a hazel-nut
and J teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and boil it until
somewhat reduced. Pass two boiled turnips through a
fine wire sieve and mash them up together with a lump of
butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. Butter some cold
scallop shells, pack the mashed turnips into them to gain
their shape, then turn them out on to the bird, pour the
sauce round them, and serve.
Partridge Collops in Paper Cases. — Oil the interior of
some paper cases about 2in. in diameter and put them in
a slack oven for five minutes. Trim some fillets of Par-
tridges, cut them into thin collops, and put them in a
saute-pan with some truffles, cut the same way ; add
clarified butter, and fry them. When cooked, drain the
collops, and fill the cases with them. Pour in some Spanish
sauce that has been reduced with a small quantity of
essence of Partridge, arrange the cases on a hot dish, and
serve.
Partridge Cromeskies. — Chop some cold remains of Par-
tridges, put them in a mortar with a small lump of butter,
and pound until quite smooth ; pass it through a fine liaii-
sieve, and season to taste with salt and pepper, also a
moderate quantity of spices. Melt a lump of butter in a
stewpan, put in the mixture, and stir it over the fire
until hot; then move it to the side. Beat the yolk of an
egg with the juice of half a lemon, strain it, stir it in
with the mixture, and leave it until cold; then divide it
into small equal-sized quantities, and roll each in a thin
rasher of partially-boiled bacon. Prepare a good frying-
batter, and dip the rolls into it, coating them well. Put
a large piece of fat or lard into a stewpan ; when boiling,
put in the cromeskies, and fry them until nicely browned.
Drain and pile them on a hot dish over which has been
spread a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper, garnish with
parsley, and serve.
Partridge Croquettes. — (1) With the flesh of two uncooked
Partridges prepare some quenelle forcemeat, pass it through
a fine hair sieve, and keep it on ice for half-an-hour.
Divide the forcemeat into small equal quantities with a
table-spoon, drop them on a floured table, and roll them to
a cork shape ; make a hollow in each with a wooden spoon
dipped in warm water, fill them with chopped raw truffles,
and cover the opening with some of the forcemeat. Dip
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104
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
the croquettes in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-
crumbs. Put some lard in a frying-pan, and when boiling
plunge the croquettes in. When cooked, arrange them in
a pyramid shape on a folded napkin spread over a hot
dish, and serve.
(2) Remove the flesh from some roasted Partridges, cut
it into dice of an equal size, put them in a basin, pour
over them some bechamel sauce that has been boiled with
a little game glaze till brown , and leave them till cool.
Shape the preparation like small corks, and dip them into
beaten eggs and then in breadcrumbs. Put some butter in
a frying-pan ; when boiling, put the croquettes in, and
fry them till lightly browned all over. Drain and arrange
the croquettes on a hot dish, garnish them with fried
parsley, and serve.
(3) Pick out the best meat from some cold remains of
Partridges, and mince it linely. Melt loz. of butter in a
stewpan, mix 1 table-spoonful of flour in with it, and put
in the minced Partridge, seasoning to taste with salt and
pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, Stir the
mixture over the fire for a few minutes, then move it to
the side, and stir in the yolk of an egg that has been
beaten up with the juice of half a lemon and strained.
Spread the mixture out on a dish, and leave it until cold.
Divide the mixture when stiff into small quantities, make
them into the shape of corks, dip them in beaten egg, roll
them in baked breadcrumbs, and leave for about half-an hour.
Put a large piece of lard or clarified fat in a stewpan,
and place it over the fire ; when blue smoke rises,
put in the croquettes, and fry them until equally browned.
Drain the croquettes, pile them on a hot dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Partridge Croustades. (1) Truss eight Partridges as for
braising, fasten a thin slice of bacon on each one, put
them in a stewpan with some mirepoix, stand them over
a. slow lire, and simmer till done. Prepare fourteen truffles,
eight cocks’ combs, and eight large crayfish as for garnish.
Cut an oval-shaped piece of bread, fry it, put it on a
dish, and place a block of fried bread in the centre. Drain
the Partridges when cooked, arrange them, necks down-
wards, against the block of bread, and put a crayfish
between each. Stick a silver skewer garnished with cocks’
combs and truffles in each bird so as to form a circle,
and place the remaining truffles inside the circle. Fill a
silver casserole with a financiere ragout that has had
some Spanish sauce reduced until essence of Partridge
mixed with it, and serve.
(2) Boil ilb. of well washed rice in salted water, moisten-
ing it with milk occasionally as it becomes dry. When
very tender, • stir in with it 2oz. of grated Parmesan
cheese, and season until salt and pepper. Spread the
rice out on a dish in a layer about 2in. thick, and leave
it until quite cold ; then cut it into rounds until a tin
cutter 2in. in diameter. Cut some pieces of cold cooked
Partridge into small pieces, put them in a stewpan with
an onion stuck with three cloves, a carrot, a small piece
of celery, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, and salt and
pepper to taste ; cover the whole with water, and boil
gently for two hours ; then strain the liquor into a basin.
Pick all the flesh off the pieces of Partridge, and chop it
Fig. 120. Partridge Croustades.
with an equal quantity of lean beef. Put the mince into
a mortar, and pound it until quite smooth. Moisten the
meat with some of the above liquor, pour it into a stew-
pan, add more seasoning if required, and stir it over the
fire until hot. Dip the rounds of rice in beaten egg and
roll them in grated breadcrumb, coating them well. Make an
Partridges — co n ti nned.
impression with a smaller cutter on the top of each.
Put a large lump of fat into a deep frying-pan ; when
boiling, put in the croustades, and fry them a nice golden
brown. When ready, drain the croustades as free from
fat as possible, and lift out the centre marked by the
smaller cutter. Scoop out some of the rice, and fill the
hollow with the puree. Spread a folded napkin or a fancy
dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the croustades on it,
garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 120), and serve.
Partridge Cutlets. — Bone and skin some Partridges, shape
them like cutlets, cut them across in thin slices, mask
them with a few cooked poultry livers that have been
pounded into a paste, and then mask them with brown
chaudfroid sauce ; arrange them side by side on a baking-
sheet, and bake. Glaze them with aspic jelly when done,
and as soon as the jelly has set trim off the superfluous
sauce and fasten paper ruffles round the bones. Put in
the centre of a dish some small glazed truffles, arrange
the cutlets round them, finish with a chain of small aspic-
jelly crofitons round the cutlets, and serve.
Partridge Cutlets a la Muscovite. — Trim one or two
whole galantines of Partridge into the shape of cutlets,
then cut them transversely in thin slices. Chop the meat
of a cooked Partridge with a few cooked poultry livers,
put it in a mortar,- and pound it ; add 1 teacupful of brown
sauce that has been reduced with the trimmings of a few
raw truffles and strained, and rub all through a fine hair
sieve. Mask the slices of galantine with a layer of this
preparation, and leave it till cool. Cook the cutlets with
brown chaudfroid sauce, lay them on a baking-disli, glaze
them with jelly, and leave them till set. Glaze some
small truffles. Trim the cutlets, put ruffles on them, arrange
them in a circle on a dish, fill the centre with the glazed
truffles, garnish round the cutlets with some croutons of
jelly, and serve.
Partridge Forcemeat. — (1) Put an equal quantity of
Partridge and chicken -flesh, cut in small pieces, in a
mortar, and pound it. Rub it through a fine hair sieve,
and mix with it lOoz. of udder of veal, that has been
boiled, pounded, and passed through the sieve. When well
mixed, add 10oz. of bread that has been soaked in a little
stiffly-reduced stock, and season with salt, pepper, and a little
grated nutmeg. Mix the whole thoroughly, then add 1
teacupful of Spanish sauce that has been reduced with
essence of Partridge. It is then ready for use.
(2) Cut two breasts of Partridges into large pieces,
pound them well in a mortar, gradually adding the same
quantity of bread soaked in milk, four egg yolks, one after
another, and 1 teaspoonful of butter. Season with 1 teaspoon -
ful of salt, h teaspoonful of pepper, and the same quantity
of grated nutmeg; thoroughly pound all together, then rub
through a sieve. If not stiff enough, add one more egg
yolk.
Partridge Fatties. — Chop the remains of some cold roast
Partridges, put them in a stewpan with a carrot, an onion,
two or three pieces of celery, one bay-leaf, half a blade of
mace, a few cloves and peppercorns, and salt to taste.
Cover the whole with water, put the lid on the stewpan,
and boil gently for two hours at the side of the fire.
Strain the liquor into a basin, and when slightly cooled
skim oft’ the fat. Pick out some of the best pieces of the
Partridges, chop them with an equal quantity of lean beef,
then put all into a mortar, and pound until smooth.
Bring the pounded meat to the desired consistency with
some of the above liquor, pass it through a fine hair sieve
into a stewpan, and stir it on the fire until hot, then
move it to the side. More seasoning should be added to
the puree if necessary. Peel and partially boil in salted
water 21b. of potatoes, then drain off the water, put in
with them a large lump of butter and a moderate quantity
of salt, and steam until quite tender, keeping the lid
on the stewpan. Mash the potatoes, heat in with them
the yolks of three eggs, season with a small quantity of
grated nutmeg, stir them over the fire for a minute or two,
then pass them through a fine hair sieve. Spread the
potato paste out on a dish to about lin. in thickness, and
leave it until cold. When ready, cut the paste into rounds
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THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
105
Partridges — continued.
with a tin cutter 2in. in diameter, and roll them in beaten
egg and grated breadcrumb. Mark a circle on the top of
each patty with a smaller cutter, and fry them in boiling
lard until nicely browned. When fried, drain the patties,
Fig. 121. Partridge Patties.
lift off the cover round the marked circle, and scoop out
some of the inside with the handle of a spoon. Fill each
patty with the puree, arrange them on a hot dish, and
serve while very hot. See Fig. 121.
Partridge Pie. — (1) Singe, draw, and clean three Partridges,
put them in a frying-pan with a little butter, season them
well, and fry lightly. Line the inside of a pie-dish with
some veal cutlet, and over that put a slice of bacon, a
little chopped parsley, and two chopped mushrooms. Cut
the Partridges in halves, put them in, and place two more
chopped mushrooms and a little chopped parsley over ; cut
some hard-boiled eggs in halves, put them on the top,
and pour in J pint of gravy. Put a strip of puff paste
round the edge of the dish, place a cover of the paste
on the top, damp the edges of the paste slightly, and
press them together ; dip a paste-brush in beaten egg,
brush the top of the pie over with it, and make a small
hole in the centre. Put it in a hot oven with a piece of
paper on the top to prevent it browning too much,
and bake it for an hour. Serve either hot or cold.
(2) Butter an oval pie -mould, Sin. long, and line it with
short paste, raising the paste Jin. above the top of the
mould. Clean and bone sufficient young Partridges to fill
the mould, lard them with strips of highly-seasoned fat
bacon, and roll them. Prepare a forcemeat with 14oz. of
cushion of veal freed of skin and gristle, and the same
quantity of bacon ; chop and pound it in a mortar, and
season with salt and mixed spices. Line the paste with
forcemeat, put the Partridges in, cover with a layer of
forcemeat, place a thin slice of fat bacon on the force-
meat, and a bay-leaf on the top of that. Cover the pie
vitli a flat of paste, moistening and pressing the edges
together. Trim round the edges of the paste to make it
even with the mould. Roll a second cover of paste out,
damp it underneath, and lay it on top of the other. Brush
the top of the pie over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten
egg, make a hole in the centre lin. wide, and carve a
pattern on the top with the point of a small knife. Put
the pie in the oven with a sheet of paper over to prevent
it getting too brown , and bake for two hours. Make a
gravy jelly with the bones of the Partridges; the trimmings
of bacon and veal, one calf’s foot boned and cut into small
pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, one onion stuck with two
cloves, and a pinch of salt, simmered in 3 pints of broth
till the calf’s foot is tender ; then strain it through a fine
hair sieve. Half-an-hour after the pie is done, pour the
gravy in through the hole in the centre of the cover, and
close it up with a piece of paste to prevent evaporation.
Serve when cold.
(3) Butter a pie-mould and line it with a sliort-paste in
which has been mixed the yolks of three eggs. Draw
and clean three Partridges, cut them in pieces, put them
in a saute-pan with a little clarified butter, and fry
for five minutes. Cut Jib. each of bacon and calf’s liver
in small pieces, put them into a saute-pan, season with a
little thyme, salt, pepper, and a bay -leaf, and fry them.
When cooked, take the pan off the fire, and leave the
liver and bacon till cold. Pound the liver and bacon in a
mortar, then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Put a
layer of the forcemeat at the bottom of the mould, leaving
a hollow in the centre ; lay one half of the pieces of Par-
tridges on the forcemeat, putting a little between each
piece to keep them together, put another layer of force- I
Partridges — continued.
meat on the top, with the remainder of the Partridge put
in the same way, and finish with a layer of forcemeat.
Wrap a thin slice of bacon round a piece of bread that
should have been cut to fit the hollow in the centre, and
put it in. Put a cover of paste on the top, moistening and
pressing the edges together, brush the pie over with a
paste brush dipped in beaten egg, place the pie in the oven,
and bake. Reduce some Spanish sauce with essence of
truffles and sliced truffles. When cooked, take the cover
off and the piece of bread from the centre of the pie,
put the pie on a dish, fill the hollow with the sauce
and truffles, place a circle of cocks kernels on the top of
the forcemeat, pile up some more sliced truffles in the
centre, and serve while hot.
(4) Clean and bone four red Partridges, lay them open
on the table, and sprinkle mixed spices and salt over them.
Remove all the skin and gristle from 1 Jib. of veal, chop
it with an equal quantity of bacon, put it in a mortar,
and pound. Place a layer of the forcemeat and three
slices of truffles on each bird, and roll them to an oval
shape. Butter a pie-mould, line it with short-paste, put
a layer of forcemeat at the bottom, two of the Partridges
on that, with a few slices of truffles over them, another
thin layer of forcemeat, then the other two Partridges,
some more sliced truffles, and a layer of forcemeat. Put
some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, cover the pie
with a fiat of paste, and make a hole in the centre, moisten-
ing and pressing the edges together ; dip a paste-brush in
beaten egg, brush the top of the pie over with it, and
bake. Half-an-hour after the pie has been taken out of
the oven, pour in through the top some melted meat
jelly that has been mixed with reduced essence of
Partridge, close the hole in the cover with a little piece
of paste, and serve the pie when cold.
(5) Procure a pair of Partridges that are not high, split
them lengthwise down the back, and dust them over well
v itli salt, pepper, and powdered spices. Put some thin slices
of ham in a pie-dish, then put in the birds ; add some
button mushrooms, strew over them in moderate quantities
some finely-minced parsley and shallots, and three-parts
fill the dish with liquid calf’s-foot jelly. Cover the pie
with puff paste, trimming it off neatly round the edges,
and bake it in a moderate oven for about an hour. Serve
it either hot or cold.
(6) Clean the birds, and season them inside and out with
salt, pepper, and a small quantity of pounded cloves. Cover
the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin rashers of fat
bacon, put in the birds, pour in a small quantity of water,
put the lid on the pan, and cook the birds slowly on a
smothered fire until tender ; but they must not be too much
done. Mix in equal quantities of finely-chopped veal, fat
bacon, and calf’s liver, and season the mixture with salt,
pepper, spice, and a small quantity of grated lemon-peel.
Line a buttered pie-mould with a good pie crust, spread
in a layer of the forcemeat, on which lay two or three of
the rashers of bacon that were cooked with the birds;
put in the birds, cover with the remainder of the forcemeat,
place two or three slices of bacon on the top, and cover the
whole with a fiat of paste. Trim round the edges, moisten
these slightly with water, and pinch them together,
making a small hole in the centre for the steam to escape
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106
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — co ntinued.
during the cooking. Cut flowers or leaves out of the
trimmings of paste, damp them underneath with water,
and arrange them on the top of the pie. Brush the pie
over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, and bake
it for about two hours. It should be covered with a sheet of
paper when it begins to colour, to prevent it getting too
brown. Skim the fat oil' the cooking- liquor of the Partridges,
strain it through a fine hair sieve into a small saucepan,
season highly, and give it a slightly acid flavour with
lemon- juice; mix in an equal quantity of clear broth, and
boil it for a few minutes over a brisk fire. When the pie
is baked, pour the gravy in at the top, and leave it
until cold. When ready to serve, lift the pie out, put
it on a folded napkin or a lace-edged dish-paper on a
dish, cut it open to show the contents, and garnish it with
a few sprigs of parsley. See Fig. 122.
Partridge Pudding. — (1) Cut a pair of plump Partridges
into convenient-sized pieces, and trim them neatly,
skinning each piece. Butter a pudding-basin, line it with
a good suet-crust, and put in the pieces of birds, with a
few mushrooms, 2 table-spoonfuls of minced shallots, 1
table-spoonful of minced parsley, and a moderate quantity
of salt and pepper. Moisten with a small quantity of water,
and cover with a flat of the crust. Tie a floured cloth
over the pudding, put it into a saucepan of boiling water,
and boil for three hours, adding more boiling water occa-
sionally to keep the pudding well covered with it. When
cooked, turn the pudding out of the basin on to a hot dish,
and serve.
(2) Clean two Partridges, cut them into joints, and trim
them. Butter a pudding-basin that will hold 1 \ pints,
and line it with a suet-paste. Cut till, of veal into thin
slices, lay them at the bottom of the basin, put the
Partridges in, and sprinkle over some salt, pepper, chopped
shallot, and chopped mushrooms ; pour in 1 teacupful of
stock, put a round of the crust on the top, damping and
pressing the edges together, tie a cloth over, plunge
the pudding into boiling water, and boil it for two hours.
When cooked, turn the pudding out of the basin on to a
hot dish, and serve.
Partridge Quenelles. — (1) Trim and cut the fillets of two
fresh Partridges into pieces, put them in a mortar, pound
them, and mix with them a third of their quantity each
of panada and butter; when well mixed and smooth, stir
in the beaten yolks of three eggs, season with salt, pepper,
and nutmeg, and pass all through a fine hair sieve ; work
the mixture in a basin with a spoon, adding gradually 2 or
3 table-spoonfuls of melted glaze. Mould fifteen quenelles
out of the forcemeat with two table-spoons, and put them
side by side on a buttered baking-sheet. Place the legs
and backs of the Partridges in a saucepan with some
trimmings of ham and bacon around them, minced vegetables,
a few peppercorns, and a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs,
brown them lightly over the fire, pour in some broth
and white wine mixed in equal quantities, skim it well,
put the lid on, stand the saucepan at the edge of
the fire, and let the contents simmer for thirty-five minutes.
Strain through a fine hair sieve. Let it cool, then skim
the fat off, and clarify it with 5oz. of lean veal, b wine-
glassful of Madeira, and one egg. Put the liquor when
clear into a small saucepan, boil it, thicken it very slightly
with a little flour mixed with water, and stir it over the
fire for a few minutes longer. Have a saucepan of
boiling salted water, and plunge the quenelles in. When
cooked, drain them on a cloth, arrange them pyramidically
on a hot dish, porn- the sauce over, and serve.
(2) Take the fillets of three young Partridges, trim off
the skin and sinews, chop the meat, put it in a mortar,
pound it, then rub it through a fine hair sieve, and mix
with it an equal quantity of bread panada. Boil a calf’s
udder in plain water. When it is done, leave it till cold ;
then trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces,
pound it in the mortar, pass it through the sieve, and
mix it with the other ingredients. Beat in two whole
eggs and the yolk of one, and season with pepper, salt,
and allspice. The preparation is then ready for use.
(3) Trim off the skin of some Partridge-flesh, pound it in
a mortar, and mix with it a third of its bulk of panada and
Partridges — continued.
the same of butter. Work the mixture till quite smooth,
season with salt and grated nutmeg, and mix with it
sufficient yolks of eggs to bring it to a good consistency.
Pass the mixture through a line hair sieve, and stir in
gradually 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of melted glaze. With
the aid of two table-spoons mould the mixture into quenelles,
and slip them out of hand into a buttered flat stewpan. Put
the bones and trimmings of the birds into a saucepan
with some pieces of bacon and ham, chopped vegetables, a
bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, and seven or eight
peppercorns. Stand the saucepan over the fire till the
contents have browned slightly, then pour in sufficient
broth and white wine in equal proportions to cover. When
boiling, skim the liquor, move the saucepan to the side
of the fire, and simmer for three-quarters-of-an-hour.
Pass the liquor through a fine hair sieve into a basin,
skim off the fat, and let it cool. Clarify the liquor,
turn it into a small stewpan, and boil it up again.
Blend 1 table-spoonful of arrowroot with a little milk, and
when smooth add it to the fumet, and stir over the fire
till slightly thickened. Have ready a saucepan of boiling
salted water, plunge the quenelles into it, and poach them
for fifteen minutes. When cooked, drain them, pile them
in a pyramid on a hot dish, pour the fumet over them,
and serve.
Partridge Rissoles. — (1) Cut the flesh of three roast Par-
tridges into small dice ; mince four or five mushrooms, mix
them with the meat, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over
them, and add a little grated nutmeg and the strained
juice of one lemon. Put 1 teacupful each of butter and
flour in a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till mixed ;
then pour in gradually b pint each of broth and cream,
and continue stirring the sauce over the fire till cooked ;
then put in the meat and mushrooms, and set it back to
become cold. When ready, shape the preparation into rolls
the size of the finger, and flour them well; dip a paste-
brusli in beaten egg, brush them over, and breadcrumb
them. Put some lard in a frying-pan, and when boiling
put the rissoles in and fry them till nicely and equally
browned. Drain and arrange the rissoles on a hot dish,
garnish them with fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut the fillets from two raw Partridges, pare and
chop them finely, and mix with them 5oz. each of blanched
bacon and raw ox-marrow, also chopped small and seasoned
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; mix with this two raw
truffles chopped, and the beaten yolk of one egg. Shape the
preparation into rissoles, put them in boiling fat, and fry
them till nicely browned on both sides. When cooked,
drain them, put them on a folded napkin on a hot dish,
and serve.
Partridge Salad. — (1) Cut the meat off the bones of
some cold roast Partridge, trim off the skin, and cut
the meat into small nicely-shaped pieces; pour over it a
plain salad dressing of oil and vinegar, and let it mace-
rate for an hour. Wash a large cabbage lettuce, pull the
leaves apart, and put them on to a dish. Mix a small
quantity of minced pickle and chopped parsley with the
Partridge, then turn the whole into the dish over the
Fig. 123. Partridge Salad.
lettuce-leaves, garnish with quarters or slices of hard-
boiled eggs (see Fig. 123), and serve. Another way of prepar-
ing this salad is to cut up some celery, put it in a
bowl, drain the Partridge -flesh from the plain dressing,
put it in with the celery, pour a mayonnaise dressing
over, garnish, and serve.
(2) Cut some cold roast Partridges into joints, skin them,
and trim each piece neatly. Make a dressing with one
part of tarragon vinegar to two parts of salad-oil, mix
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
107
Partridges — continued.
with it some finely-minced chervil and tarragon, and
season with salt and pepper ; arrange some washed endive
in a salad-howl, put in the pieces of Partridges, and pour
the dressing over them. Ornament the top with some
slices of hard-boiled eggs, pickled gherkins, and fillets of
anchovies that have been well washed. Strew over some
chopped capers, and serve.
Partridges Sautes. — Cut the legs off two Partridges, remove
the meat, chop it with an equal quantity of veal or
chicken, put it in a mortar, and pound it ; mix with it
a third of its quantity of panada and a little butter,
work it till smooth, and season with salt and nutmeg.
Mix in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs, pass it
through a fine hair sieve into a basin, and add 2 or 3
table -spoonfuls of thick cream. Fill a border mould with
the above preparation, and stand it in the bain-marie.
Divide each breast of Partridge into three or four pieces,
and put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, a
bunch of sweet herbs, and three or four peppercorns. Put the
bones and backs of the Partridges in a saucepan with two
slices of bacon and ham, a bunch of sweet herbs, and
some peppercorns, and brown them over a quick fire.
Pour in sufficient white wine and gravy to make the
sauce, and boil it for twenty minutes. Reduce J pint of
bechamel sauce with the trimmings of some truffles, then
strain into it the liquor that the bones were boiled in,
and keep it hot. Put the frying-pan containing the breasts
and fillets of Partridges over a quick fire, and fry them,
turning to brown them equally. When nearly done, put in
five truffles that have been cut in small dice and 1 tea-
cupful of Madeira, move the pan to the side of the fire,
and cook the truffles gently. Turn the border out of the
mould on to a hot dish, and put the breasts and fillets
of Partridges in the centre ; boil the sauce up again, then
strain it over the Partridges, and serve.
Partridges Sautes a la Chasseur. — Singe, draw, and wipe
two fine, tender Partridges, cut them into twelve pieces,
place them in a saute -pan with loz. of butter, seasoning
well with 1 pinch of salt and h pinch of pepper, and
brown well for three minutes on each side ; add a finely-
chopped shallot, J wineglassful of Madeira wine, J pint of
Spanish sauce, and twelve whole mushrooms. Finish cook-
ing for fifteen minutes, then serve, with six bread croutons
round the dish for garnish.
Partridge Soup. — (1) Cut up a brace of old Partridges,
put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter and a
slice of ham, and toss them about over the fire until
somewhat browned ; then put in an onion, a few pieces of
celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Pour hi 5 pints of
water, and boil them gently for three hours. Strain the
soup, make it hot again, turn it into a soup-tureen with
some stewed celery, and serve it with a plate of sippets
of toast or small croutons of fried bread.
(2) Make a good stock of a knuckle of veal, a piece of
lean ham, three good-sized onions, three good-sized carrots,
a white pepper whole, two blades of mace, and 5qts. of
water. Half roast four Partridges, then stew them in the
stock till they are quite tender; cut off all the best of
the meat, put the bones and trimmings into the stock,
and pound the meat quite fine, moistening it with 1 or 2
spoonfuls of the stock ; then rub it through a sieve.
Strain the stock, and mix the pounded meat into it,
together with 1 spoonful of sugar, pepper and salt to
taste, a small quantity of cream, and H wineglassfuls of
port wine. Serve very hot.
(3) Old birds are generally used for making soups.
Procure four Partridges, skin and disjoint them, and
put them in a large saucepan with 3 ill), or 41b. of
gravy beef cut into moderate-sized pieces, and Jib. of ham
in slices ; also add four moderate-sized onions, peeled and
sliced, a small head of celery cut into lengths, and a lump
of butter. Place them over the fire, and toss them about
well until lightly browned ; then drain off as much of
the butter as possible, pour in 7 pints of boiling water,
and season with salt and a few peppercorns. When boiling,
skim the soup, move it to the side of the fire, and let it
simmer gently for three hours. At the end of that time,
Partridges — con tinued.
strain the soup, boil it up again, pour it into a soup-
tureen, and serve with croutons of fried bread.
(4) Wrap a few slices of fat bacon round four Partridges,
and roast them. Let them get cold, cut off all the meat
from them, pound it in a mortar, and add 2oz. of bread-
crumbs and loz. of lice boiled in broth; put them all
into a saucepan with 1 table spoonful of Spanish sauce,
2 table-spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and 8 table-spoonfuls
of rich consomme. Stir well over a slow fire until the
puree is quite hot, pass it through a sieve into a tureen,
pour over a sufficient quantity of soup made from the
bones of the birds, and serve with pieces of bread fried
to a light colour in butter.
Partridge Soup with. Lentils. — Put 1 pint of lentils in a
saucepan with two or three carrots, turnips, and onions, a
piece of raw ham, and two Partridges without their fillets;
pour in sufficient broth to cover them, and simmer by the
side of the fire till the meat is done. Strain the soup through
a fine hair sieve. Put the lentils and flesh of the Par-
tridges in a mortar, and pound it ; then pour in the soup,
pass all through the sieve into the saucepan again, and
stir it over the fire till very hot, but do not allow it to
boil. Prepare some Partridge quenelles with the fillets
of the Partridges, cook them, and serve with the soup in
a soup -tureen.
Potted Partridges. — (1) Mix together the following spices:
1 teaspioonful of ground cloves, \ teaspoonful each of ground *■
mace, allspice, and white pepper, J table-spoonful of salt,
and a small quantity each of nutmeg and cayenne pepper.
Prepare the Partridges as for roasting, season them both
inside and out until the spice, and truss them. Put a
thick layer of vine-leaves at the bottom of a stewpan,
put the birds in, breasts downwards, and cover them with
clarified butter ; place the lid on the stewpan, and cook the
' birds over a very gentle fire. When cooked, take the
birds out and drain them well. Clarify their cooking-
butter and let it get cold, then take the solid butter that
is free from the gravy and melt it again. Put the birds
in jars, pour the warmed butter over them, and when it
has cooled again tie parchment over the jars. Should it
be required to keep the birds longer than a week, pour a
layer of melted paraffin-wax in each jar.
(2) Clean some Partridges well, and dry them. Mix
together a seasoning of finely-powdered allspice, white
pepper, salt, and mace, and rub the birds all over with
it ; then lay them breasts downwards in a pan, packing
them as close as possible. Put plenty of butter over them,
cover the pan with a common paste of flour and water,
tie a piece of strong paper over, and bake the Partridges
in the oven. When quite cold, pack the birds tightly into
pots, and cover them with butter.
Puree of Partridge. — (1) Empty and clean three Partridges,
put them in a braising-pan with a little game broth, and
braise them. When done, let them cool. Strain the cooking-
liquor through a fine hair sieve, skim off all the fat, put
it in a stewpan with double its quantity of veloute sauce,
and boil till reduced to the thickness of thick supreme
sauce. Take all the meat from the Partridges when cold,
chop it, put it in a mortar, and pound, pouring in
gradually at the same time the sauce. Pass the puree
through a fine hair sieve, and it is then ready for use.
(2) Peel fifty roasted chestnuts, put them in a sauce-
pan with some strong broth, and let them simmer for
a time. Cut off all the meat of a roasted Partridge, and
put it, minus the skin, in a mortar. Drain the chestnuts,
put them in with the Partridge meat, and pound them;
then pass all through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the
puree some breadcrumb that has been soaked in the
chestnut stock, put the puree in a saucepan, stir it
over the fire till thoroughly heated again, then turn it on
a hot dish, garnish with croft tons of fried bread, and serve.
Puree of Partridge with Plovers’ Eggs. — To Jules Goutle
is due the arrangement of this pretty dish. Draw and clean
four Partridges, and remove the fillets of three, keeping
the other one whole, for roasting. Cut the fillets into
three pieces each lengthwise ; trim fourteen of the pieces,
3in. long, Jin. broad, and Jin. thick. Shape the remaining
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
108
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges — continued.
pieces and the minion fillets like pears, ‘2in. long. Cut a
block of bread without any crust, 8in. long, 3in. high,
and liin. wide. Put a thin slice of fat bacon over it.
Contise the fourteen pieces of fillets with some round
slices of truffles, lay the fillets across the bread, and cover
them with another thin slice of fat bacon. Roast the
three Partridges and the whole Partridge. When cooked,
leave them till cool ; then take the skin and fat off', chop
the meat, put it in a mortar, and pound it, adding grad-
ually at the same time some game broth that has been
reduced with double the quantity of veloute sauce. Pass
the puree through a fine hair sieve, and put it in a
bain-marie pan. Put the piece of bread with the fillets
on in a saute pan, and put it in the oven till the fillets
are done. Boil fourteen plovers’ eggs. Prepare a rice
croustade on a dish, pour a little more than half of the
puree in the croustade, put the contised fillets and plover’s
eggs alternately round the top of it, turn the remainder of
the puree in the centre, arrange the ten small fillets on
the top, the points to the centre, put a small truffle in
the middle, and serve.
Puree of Partridge with Poached Eggs. — The following-
dish can he made with the remains of cold roast Partridges.
Cut the meat up, put it in a mortar with 3 table-spoon-
fuls of cooked rice, and pound ; stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of
brown sauce, then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Put
the puree into a saucepan with a piece of fresh butter,
a little glaze, and seasoning to taste; stir it over a slow
fire till thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil. Turn
the purde on to a hot dish, pour over it some gravy that
has been made with the bones of the Partridges, garnish
round with eight or ten poached eggs, and serve.
Roasted Partridges. — (1) Pluck the Partridges, draw and
trass them, and fasten some thin slices of fat bacon round
them. Fix the birds on a spit, put them before a sharp clear
fire, and roast for fifteen minutes. Five minutes before
dishing, take the bacon off, sprinkle a little salt over the
birds, and brown them. Put the Partridges on a hot
dish, and serve them with a sauceboatful of brown gravy.
(2) Dress and prepare a pair of Partridges, put them
before the fire, or in a very hot oven, and brown them
quickly ; then season them with salt and pepper, baste
with a little butter, and allow them to cook for about
half an hour. In the meantime, fry 1 pint of coarse
breadcrumbs brown in a frying-pan, taking care to
have the fat smoking hot ; when they are brown, [
take them up with a skimmer, and lay them on brown |
paper to free them from grease. Serve the roasted Par-
Fig. 124. Baiided Partridge.
tridges on the fried breadcrumbs. If gravy is desired,
make it from the drippings in the pan. Garnish round
with potato croquettes.
(3) Prepare the birds, and truss them for roasting, fasten-
ing a slice of bacon over the breast (see Fig. 124) ; fix them on
a spit, and roast before a clear but not too fierce fire.
Five minutes before taking the Partridges up, remove the
bacon, so that they may brown slightly. Put l pint of
milk into a saucepan with a small onion stuck with three
cloves and half a blade of mace ; let the milk simmer at
the side of the fire for a-quarter-of-an-liour, then strain
it, return it to the saucepan with f breakfast-cupful of
Partridges — continued.
very fine breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper, and
keep it at the side of the fire until the birds are ready.
Also prepare the following gravy : Put a finely-chopped
onion in a stewpan with a small lump of butter, and fry
it until a dark brown ; then put in a small quantity of
minced lean ham, two or three sprigs of thyme and parsley,
and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, and boil for ten
minutes, then strain. When the birds are cooked, put
them on a hot dish, and serve with the sauce and gravy
in sauceboats.
(4) Clean and truss the Partridges, chop the livers with
a little butter, season them with salt and pepper, and
stuff the Partridges with them. Bind some sheets of buttered
paper round the Partridges, fix them on a spit, and
roast them in front of a clear fire. Mix some breadcrumbs
with a little butter, chopped parsley, chives, shallots, and
a little salt, black pepper, and nutmeg. When three-parts
done, take the birds off the spit, slightly raise each joint
with a knife, and add the above forcemeat ; put the birds
in a stewpan with a little stock and champagne mixed
in equal quantities, stand the stewpan over a slow fire
without the lid on, and let the liquor simmer till reduced.
Put the Partridges on a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon-
juice over, pour the sauce round, and serve.
(5) Clean a Partridge, and make a stuffing with its
liver, some grated ham, minced parsley and chives, and
season with salt. Stuff the Partridge with the forcemeat,
put a slice of bacon round it, wrap it in a sheet of
buttered paper, fix it on a spit, and roast it before a
clear fire, basting occasionally. When cooked, remove the
paper and bacon from the bird, pour a little rich gravy
round it, and serve.
Roasted Partridges a la Montglas. — Roast three young
Partridges, and cut out the whole of the breast of each
in a square piece, so as to leave a square aperture ; clean
away from the interior all the spongy substance, in order
to put a salpicon inside the breasts of the birds. Cut
Fig. 125. Roasted Partridge a la Montglas.
into very small dice the pieces from the breasts of the
birds and some cooked mushrooms and tongue, adding if
convenient a few truffles also cut in dice. Mix a little
game glaze with some reduced Spanish sauce, add it to
the dice, season well, and fill the aperture in the birds
with it; brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in
beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, then brash
them over with warmed butter, and breadcrumb them
again ; put them on a baking-disli and roast in a
hot oven. Mix a little game glaze in a brown sauce,
put the Partridges on a hot dish (see Fig. 125), and serve
with the sauce.
Roasted Partridge a la Perigord. — Pluck, singe, and
draw three Partridges. Put 4oz. of scraped fat bacon in
a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and two
or three cloves, and place over the fire until boiling ; then
take out the bay-leaves, cloves, and mace. Finely chop
three large truffles, put them in with the fat, also put in
ten sliced truffles, pour in lqt. of white sauce, and boil it
until thickly reduced, keeping it well stirred at the same
time. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, stir in
quickly the beaten yolks of two eggs, and pour it on a
plate. When the truffle mixture is cold, stuff the Par-
tridges with it, then hang them up and leave them for
For details respecting Culinary Processes% Utensils , Sauces, dc.y referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
109
Partridges — continued.
a few days, so as to lie well flavoured with the truffles.
When ready for cooking, wrap the birds separately in
sheets of buttered paper, fix them on a spit, and roast
them in front of a clear fire for half-an hour. Pour 2qts.
of white sauce into a saucepan with 1 pint of veal broth,
put it over the fire, and when it boils put in a few
thinly-sliced French truffles and 1 scant teaspoonful of
sugar. Stir and boil it until thickly reduced, then mix
in 2 table-spoonfuls of whipped cream. When cooked,
take the birds out of the sheets of paper, put them on a
hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve while very
hot.
Roasted Partridges a la Sybarite. — Singe and draw two
Partridges and bone two snipe. Put the livers of the Par-
tridges and snipe in a mortar, having previously fried
them, add the peel of two raw truffles and a piece
of beef marrow, and pound them. Season the mixture,
and pass all through a fine hair sieve ; cut the peeled
truffles into dice, and mix it with the above. Sprinkle
some pepper and salt inside the snijie, put a small quantity
of the mixture on each, roll them up, put one in each of
the Partridges, and fill the crops with the remainder of
the preparation. Cut two squares out of some pig’s caul,
and wrap the birds in them, previously sprinkling a little
salt over them. The Partridges should not be cooked till
the following day. Run a thin iron skewer through them,
fix them on the spit, bind a sheet of buttered paper round
each, and roast them in front of a clear fire. They will
take about twenty minutes to cook. When cooked, take
them off the spit, remove the paper, put them on a hot
dish, pour some rich gravy that has been reduced to half-
glaze over them, and serve.
Roasted Partridges Stuffed with Truffles. — Singe and
draw two young red Partridges. Peel six black truffles,
cut them in quarters, and sprinkle salt and pepper over
them. Chop the livers of the Partridges that have been
cooked with two chickens’ livers, an equal quantity
of fat bacon, and the trimmings of the truffles ; put the
mince in a mortar, pound it, and pass it through a fine
hair sieve. Put some bacon-fat in a frying-pan, and when
melted put in the truffles ; toss them about over the fire
for two or three minutes, then mix them with the force-
meat, and stuff the Partridges with it; truss them, run a
skewer through them, tie them on a spit, and roast
them in front of a clear fire, basting occasionally with
butter. When the birds are cooked (they will take
from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to their size),
sprinkle salt over, and put them on a hot dish. Mix a
little gravy in the drippings, skim the fat off, and boil it
till reduced to half its original quantity, then strain it
through a fine hair sieve. Garnish the Partridges with
slices of lemon, and serve them with the sauce in a
sauceboat.
Salmis of Partridge. — (1) Truss three perfectly fresh Par-
tridges as for roasting, put them in a saute -pan with a
little butter, and brown them over a brisk fire. Leave
them till half cold, then cut the wings and legs off', and
separate the breasts ; pare and trim each piece. Put the
carcases, trimmings, and some fat bacon in a stewpan,
and with them prepare a little rich gravy. Fry the livers
in butter, then put them in a mortar, and pound them ;
add them to some brown sauce, stir it over the fire till
hot, then skim and pass it through a fine hair sieve.
Put it again in the saucepan, strain the gravy in, turn the
limbs of the Partridges in, and warm them. Arrange the
six legs on a hot dish, put the six wings on them, and
the three breasts at the top. Put some croutons of fried
bread, mushrooms, and truffles round the dish, pour the
sauce into a sauceboat, and serve.
(2) Clean and truss five rather stale young Partridges,
cover them with paper, and roast them underdone. Carve
the birds as when served at table, flay them so as not to
leave a particle of skin, and trim them nicely. Put four
shallots, some small pieces of ham, one carrot cut in dice,
three or four mushrooms, a bunch of thyme and parsley,
a bay-leaf, three or four cloves and peppercorns, and a
little allspice in a stewpan with some butter, and fry
Partridges — continued.
them lightly; then pour in 2 wineglassfuls of Madeira, 6
table-spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, 2 table-spoonfuls of broth,
and the lungs and skins of the birds. Stand the stewpan
by the side of the fire, and let the contents stew for an-
liour-and-a-half ; then skim the fat off, and put in a
small piece of sugar to lessen the bitter taste of the
lungs. Put the flayed limbs of the Partridges in a stewpan,
strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve over them, and
stand the stewpan in a bain-marie. Cut some slices of
bread in the shape of a kite, and fry them in butter ;
then drain and arrange them on a hot dish, turn the
salrnis over them, and serve.
(3) Cut three cold roasted Partridges into pieces, trim
them, and put them in a stewpan. Place the bones
and trimmings in a mortar, pound them, turn them
into a stewpan with 4 pint each of Madeira and
mirepoix, and boil it quickly till reduced to half its
original quantity; then pour in 1^ pints of Spanish sauce,
and let it simmer for an hour. Skim the fat off the
sauce, strain it through a fine hair sieve, pour half of it
in the stewpan with the pieces of Partridges, and stand
them over the fire till thoroughly hot. Arrange them on
a hot dish, garnish with glazed croutons of fried bread,
pour the remainder of the sauce in a sauceboat, and serve.
(4) Put 2 table-spoonfuls each of butter and flour into
a saucepan, and stir them over the fire till mixed, but do
not allow them to brown. Pour in some red wine and stock
mixed in equal quantities, a bunch of sweet herbs, one
shallot, and pepper and salt to taste, and simmer gently
for half-an-hour. Strain the sauce through a fine hair
sieve, return it to the saucepan, put in some ccoked
Partridges cut into joints and fillets, and let the sauce
simmer without boiling; then squeeze in the juice of one.
lemon, keeping back the pips. Put the Partridges on a
hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with croiitons of
fried bread, and serve.
(5) Lard and roast three Partridges, keeping them
rather underdone. Let them get cold, then skin and cut
them into pieces. Put them in a stewpan with a few
shallots and a small piece of lemon-peel, moisten with a
few spoonfuls of good broth and about 4 breakfast cupful
of reduced Spanisli sauce, and stew very slowly over a
smothered fire. When the liquor has reduced to half its
original quantity, take out the pieces of Partridges, and
mix in with the sauce 1 table-spoonful of aspic jelly. Put
the stewpan over ice, and shake it occasionally until the
sauce begins to set; then dip each piece of Partridge in
separately, so that the sauce may adhere all over. Arrange
them tastefully on a dish, pour what is left of the sauce
over them, garnish with croutons of aspic jelly, and
serve.
(6) Prepare and roast three Partridges, keeping them
rather underdone; leave them until cold, theri skin
and cut them into pieces. Put 2 wineglassfuls of claret
or other red wine into a stewpan with 3 table-spoonfuls
of salad-oil, the juice and grated peel of one lemon, and
a seasoning of salt and pepper, with a small quantity of
cayenne pepper. Put the Partridges in the sauce, and
keep them at the side of the fire until very hot. When
ready, turn the salmis on to a hot dish, and serve without
delay.
(7) Lard three Partridges and roast them, keeping them
rather underdone and basting frequently with butter. °Leave
them until cold, then trim off' the skin, cut them into
pieces, lay them in a stewpan, pour over a small quan-
tity of good broth, and put the pan over a smothered
fire so that the contents will not boil too quickly. Put
in six shallots, a small piece of lemon-peel, and 1 tea-
cupful of reduced Spanish sauce, and stew slowly until
the liquor has reduced to half its original quantity; then
take out the pieces of Partridges and lay them on a hot
dish with a crouton of fried bread between each. Pour
the sauce round them, squeeze over a small quantity of
lemon-juice, and serve. J
(8) Prepare and roast three Partridges, and when cooled
cut them into pieces. Put loz. of butter into a stewpan
with 1 table-spoonful of flour, and stir them over the lire
until mixed, but do not brown them ; next put in two
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Sec., referred to, see under their special heads.
110
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Partridges— continued.
shallots, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 1 teacupful each of
white wine and stock, season to taste with salt and pepper,
and stir over the lire until boiling. Turn the pieces of
Partridges into the sauce, move it to the side of the fire,
and leave them until hot through. Fry some slices of
bread in butter until nicely browned, then drain and place
them on a hot dish ; put a piece of the Partridge on each
slice of bread, strain their gravy round them, and serve.
Salmis of Partridge a l’Ancienne. — Lard and roast three
Partridges, letting them be underdone, and leave them
until cold ; then cut them into pieces, removing the skin
and paring them nicely. Put the pieces in a stewpan with
stock to nearly their height, a few shallots, a small piece
of lemon-peel, and J breakfast-cupful of reduced Spanish
sauce, and stew them gently until the liquor has reduced
to half its original quantity ; then take out the pieces of
Partridges, and strain the sauce through a tammy. Put the
trimmings of the Partridges in a mortar, and pound them,
moistening them occasionally with a few drops of the sauce.
Rub the pounded mixture through a fine hair sieve into
a stewpan, add the pieces of Partridges, and warm
them up again in a bain-marie ; make the sauce hot
again. When ready, arrange the pieces of Partridges and
the puree on a hot dish, with a crouton of bread fried
brown in butter between each piece, pour the sauce round,
and serve very hot.
Souffle of Partridge. — (1) Cut the flesh off some roasted Par-
tridges, chop it, put it in a mortar, and pound it together
with a few table-spoonfuls of veloutd sauce and a lump of
butter ; season to taste, beat in the yolks of four eggs, then
pass all through a fine hair sieve. Beat the whites of six
eggs well, and mix them with the puree. Butter a baking-
dish, put the souffle in, cover the top with paper, and bake
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. When cooked, it
is ready for serving.
(2) Pound the flesh of some roasted Partridges in a mortar,
having previously removed the skin and tendons ; moisten
the purde with a little rich gravy, season with pepper and
salt, then pass the whole through a fine hair sieve. Put it
in a stewpan with a little butter, and stir it over the fire
till warm ; then add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
when well mixed stir in the whites, which should have
been beaten to a stiff froth. Pour the preparation into a
silver souffle case, and bake it in a moderate oven till well
risen. The souffle should be served very hot, with a sauce-
boatful of rich brown sauce.
(3) Cut the flesh off three roast Partridges, removing all
skin and tendons ; chop it finely, then put it in a mortar,
pound it, and rub it through a line hair sieve. Prepare
a thick butter sauce, mixing a little mushroom liquor
with it if convenient. Measure the Partridge paste, and
for each 4 break fast-cupfuls use I \ cupfuls of the sauce;
season with salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg and lemon-
peel, and 1 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, stir it over
the fire till boiling, then set it away to cool. Whip the
yolks of eight eggs, mix them with the preparation, then
beat the whites to a froth, and put them in also. Turn the
souffle preparation into twenty fancy paper cases, put them
in the oven, and bake for fifteen minutes. When done,
put the cases on a large dish, and serve them at once with
a plate of buttered toast.
Stewed Partridges. — (1) Procure three Partridges, old ones will
do, lard them, and truss them as for boiling. Line a stew-
pan with slices of fat bacon, put in the Partridges, breasts
downwards, with a slice of lean veal, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a few chopped savoury vegetables ; pour in a
teacupful each of gravy and white wine. Let all simmer
gently at the side of the fire for an-liour-and-a-half ; at
the end of that time put the Partridges on a hot dish,
strain their cooking-liquor over them, garnish with cut
lemons and fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Clean, truss, and lard some Partridges ; put them in a
stewpan with two slices of fat pork, two carrots and an
onion cut in slices, a bunch of sweet herbs, and sufficient
ordinary white wine and stock mixed in equal quantities to
cover them. Season with salt and pepper, put the lid on the
stewpan, and let the contents simmer gently till the birds are |
Partridges — continued.
cooked. Take the Partridges out and keep them hot ; boil the
cooking-liquor till reduced to half, then skim off all the
fat, pass the sauce through a fine hair sieve over the
birds, which should have been put on a hot dish, and
serve.
(3) Singe, draw, and truss a Partridge as for roasting ;
put it in a saucepan with sufficient stock to cover, and
let it simmer gently for three-quarters-of-an-hour. When
cooked, take the Partridge out, brush over the breast
with a paste-brush dipped in beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle
breadcrumbs over with a little pepper and salt, and brown
it under a salamander. Thicken the sauce with a little
flour and butter that has been kneaded together, put the
Partridge on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
(4) Lithuanian Style. — Work Goz. of butter with
sufficient breadcrumbs to make a stiff paste, seasoning
with salt, pepper, and a little chopped parsley. Truss
two young Partridges, lix them on a spit, and roast
them under done. When nearly cold, divide the birds into
three lengthwise, and sprinkle salt over them. Divide the
paste into four equal parts, put one on each side of the
breasts, then tie the birds in their original form again;
put them side by side in a narrow stewpan, put the lid
on, and keep them by the side of the lire, basting them
occasionally. In fifteen minutes, take the Partridges out,
drain them, put them on a hot dish, put a little meat
glaze and the strained juice of three lemons in the stew-
pan with the butter, and stir over the fire till boiling;
then pour it over the Partridges, and serve.
Stewed Partridges a la Barbarie. — Truss two or three
young Partridges, and stuff them with chopped truffles
and rasped bacon that have been seasoned with salt,
pepper, and allspice, pounded in a mortar to a stiff paste,
and mixed with some peeled and cleaned whole truffles.
Cut a few more truffles in little pieces, make some incisions
in the breasts of the birds with a sharp-pointed knife,
stick the pieces of truffles in in regular order, and finish
them as described for Partkidges a la Montmorency.
When ready to serve, put some Italian sauce boiled with
truffles on a hot dish, place the Partridges on it, taking
care first to drain them well, otherwise the fat will spoil
the sauce.
Stewed Partridge a la Chipolata. — Cut a Partridge into
quarters, put it into a pan with butter, and fry it until
brown, dusting it over with flour. Put in two dozen
small onions, 4lb. of sausages cut into thin slices and
fried, six chopped mushrooms, and twelve roasted chestnuts;
add seasoning to taste, pour in 2 or 3 wineglassfuls of
white wine, and stew until all is tender. Thicken the
sauce, turn the whole on to a dish, and serve with croutons
of fried bread.
Stewed Partridges a la Chivry. — Truss and stew the
Partridges as for Partridges a la Montmorency. Stew
some rings of white onions in a little game broth. Take
a cutter, the same size as the inner rings of the onions,
and with it cut some round pieces out of some truffles that
should have been braised with the birds, reserving the
trimmings of the truffles to mix with the sauce. When the
birds are done and put on a hot dish, place the round
pieces of truffles over the breasts, three on each side, with
the rings of onions round the truffles, and one on each
pouch ; a little glaze may be used to make the truffles stick
on. Prepare the Italian sauce with the trimmings of truffles
and a little game glaze. Pour the sauce round the birds,
but not over, and serve.
Stewed Partridges a l’Espagnole. — Clean two or three
Partridges carefully, so as not to injure the skin ; pick
them, cut off the sinew that is under the joints of the
legs, and skewer the legs up towards the breast. Fill a
needle with packthread, run it through the stump of the
right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, next
across the body, and then again through the other stump ;
then tighten the packthread and fasten the knot. Run
the needle through from the back to the side beneath the
leg, and then .above the pinion below the breast, so as to
perforate the breast-bone ; let the needle come out from
the part parallel to that where it was first introduced,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <ic., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Ill
Partridges — continued.
and then through the side to the back, and fasten the
packthread. Care should he taken to give the birds as
nice a shape as possible. Put some slices of bacon at the
bottom of a large stewpan, put the Partridges in, cover
them with more bacon, pour in some rich fowl broth, put
the lid on, and let them simmer for twenty minutes over
a slow fire. Drain the Partridges when done, put them
on a hot dish, pour over them some Spanish sauce in
which has been mixed a little glaze, and serve.
Stewed Partridges a la Montmorency— Trass some
young Partridges as for STEWED PARTRIDGES A
L’ESPAGNOLE. Dip the breasts into boiling water to make
them firm, then dip them into cold water, and lard them
with bacon. Put some slices of fat bacon at the bottom
of a stewpan, put the Partridges in, put some more rashers
of fat bacon on the top of them, and moisten to half their
height with fowl broth. Stand the stewpan oyer a brisk
fire for a few minutes, then move it to the side, and let
the Partridges cook for twenty minutes Glaze them, take
them out, drain, and glaze them again. Put them on a
hot dish, and serve with a Dutch sauce.
Stewed Partridges a, la Parisienne. — Clean and truss
some Partridges, put them in a stewpan with a little
butter, and brown them over a brisk fire ; then pour in
an equal quantity each of stock, white wine, and reduced
Spanish sauce, put the lid on the stewpan, and let the con-
tents simmer for three-quarters-of-an-hour. Take the Par-
tridges out when cooked, put them on a hot dish, and
keep them hot till the sauce is ready. Skim the sauce,
and boil till reduced ; then stir in a lump of butter,
strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve over the birds,
and serve.
Stewed Partridges a la St. Clair.— Draw and clean the
birds, cut them in pieces, put them in a saucepan, cover
them with stock, put the lid on, and stew them till
tender. Put a finely-chopped small onion, 1 wineglassful
of port wine, 1 dessert spoonful of ketchup, 1 teacupful of
cream, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy paste, and a little pepper
and salt in with the birds. When ready, turn it all on
to a hot dish, and serve at once.
Terrine of Partridge.— Empty two Partridges, bone them,
cut them in two lengthwise, put them in a frying-pan
with a little bacon-fat, and fry them lightly till the llesli
is set, then take them out. Cut 'the half of a calf’s
liver in slices, fry it quickly in a little bacon-fat, with a
pinch of chopped onion, a sprinkling of fine herbs, and
two or three little pieces of raw ham. When cold, put
the liver in a mortar, pound it, then pass it through a
fine hair sieve. Put half as much pork and bacon as there
is liver in the mortar, pound it, then mix it with the
liver, and season well with mixed spices, salt, and pepper.
Line a terrine with thin slices of fat bacon, then fill it
with the halves of the partridges and the forcemeat ; add
some sweet herbs and a little madeira ; put a layer
of forcemeat on the top. Cover with a flat of paste, put
Fig. 126. Terrine of Partridges.
it in the oven, and bake it for two hours, basting it
occasionally. When cooked, take the flat of paste oft", put
a light weight on the terrine, and let it cool ; then take
the fat off, and cut the preparation up. Wipe and fix the
terrine on a dish : garnish round the base with a folded
napkin or ornamental dish paper (see Fig. 126), and serve.
FASCALINE SAUCE. — See Sauces.
PASCH EGGS.— See Easter Eggs.
PASSA SOUP. — See Soups
PASSOVER CAKES. — Unleavened cakes made by
the Jews from matso or purified flour. The following
is a good receipt:
Warm 1 teacupful of slightly-salted water ; beat together
four eggs and Jib. of matso-flour, and work in 1 teacupful
of milk in which a few lumps of sugar have been dissolved,
and add as much of the warm water as is required to
make a rather soft mass. Turn it into a buttered tin and
bake.
PASTAFROIiXiE. — The literal translation of this
term is “ light pastry.” Francatelli was especially famous
for the manufacture of pastry to which he gave this Italian
name. He manufactured it in many different ways, the
two following being considered the favourites. Other
varieties can be made according to the taste of the
pastry-cook.
(1) Slightly warm 3oz. of butter and beat it with
a wooden spoon until creamy ; stir in gradually C table-
spoonfuls of caster sugar, and when well-mixed, whip in the
yolks of five eggs, one at a time. Add 4oz. os blanched
and pounded sweet almonds, twelve pounded bitter ones,
and ilb. of flour. Work this mixture well, then put the
paste on a floured table, and roll it out. Cover a baking-
sheet with white paper, lay the paste on it, mark it into
any shape desired, and place it in a moderate oven.
When baked, break the Pastafrolle in the places where
it is marked.
(2) Beat 3oz. of slightly-warmed butter together with 6oz. of
caster sugar until creamy, then whip in, one at a time, the
yolks of five eggs, add 9oz. of flour, 4oz. of blanched and
pounded sweet almonds, and ten bitter ones, and work the
mixture well. Dredge a little flour over a table or paste-
board, put the paste on it, roll it out thin, and with a
tin cutter Sin. in diameter cut it out in rounds. Butter
some baking-sheets, lay the flats on them, and bake in a
moderate oven. When cooked, lay the cakes on a slab, put
a dish with a very heavy weight on it over them, and leave
until cold. Stick the flats together in twos, with a layer of
any kind of jam spread between them. Mask the tops of the
cakes with chocolate icing, and leave until it has dried upon
them ; then arrange tastefully on a fancy dish, and serve.
PASTE and PASTRY (Fr. Pate, Patisserie ; Ger.
Pastete, Pasteten hackwork ; Ital. Pasta, Pasticceria ; Sp.
Pasta, Pasteleria). — Old-fasliioned words are these that
head this article, and yet, although they, or words very
much like them — probably derived from the Greek passein,
to sprinkle, in allusion to the mode adopted for moisten-
ing the meal — are found in the oldest English, the art
of making and using Paste and Pastry is quite modern
in its perfection. Indeed, so rapidly has the Pastry-cook’s
art developed, that it is considered of sufficient importance
to form a separate and distinct branch of cookery. To
what nation we are indebted for the introduction of
Pastry-making is very uncertain ; probably all nations
may be considered as equally concerned in the primary
manufacture of flour-and-water Paste, from which primi-
tive source, cakes, puddings, and pies have originated.
It is to the French cook, however, that we must accord
the credit of the perfection to which Pastry-making has
now arrived. French Pastry is famous all over the world ;
this is not due to any secret of mixing or mysterious
handling, but simply to skill and care.
It would be impossible in the limited space available
for the subject in this Encyclopaedia to produce a complete
work on the art of Pastry-making ; but by reason of
the liberal assistance given by some of the best Pastry-
makers of the world, foreign and British alike, this article
will be found to give ample instruction for the pre-
paration of all kinds of Paste, even to the very finest
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
112
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
produced in this or any other country. Its adaptation
to the uses of the table must depend in a great measure
upon the ingenuity of the operator, and the instructions
hereunder given, being of a typical character, should
suggest innumerable others.
The Pastry-cook requires utensils that are especially
adapted to the purposes for which he intends to use them.
These, however, may be very simple, consisting principally
of a Paste-board, rolling-pin, and basin for mixing; but
an artistic Pastry-cook could not be expected to turn out
any very great results with
such utensils only : many
others would be required for
high class work, and these
will be described further on.
Pastes. — In making Paste
much confusion has arisen in
the minds of domestic Pastry-
makers, owing to the varia-
tions and modifications of
ingredients, and modes of
mixing adopted by individual
cooks ; the names given to Pastes being also somewhat
misleading. As a matter of fact, by disregarding
variations Pastry-making is exceedingly simple.
There are two kinds of Pastry, from which all others
take their origin ; these are known as Puff Paste and
Short-Paste, the difference between them being not so
much the question of ingredients as the mode of mixing.
All Pastes consist more or less of flour, water or milk-
and-water, and greasy matter of some kind ; any sort of
flour may be used, provided it is of a starchy character ;
but as a rule the best white wheat-flour is used for fine
Pastry; it should be dried, and passed through a sieve
Fig. 127. Flour-sieve
(Mathews and Son).
Fig. 128. Egg-bowl.
(see Fig. 127) to remove lumps and lighten it. Eggs mixed
with milk or milk-and-water, or sour milk, may be used
to moisten ; the latter requires an antacid with the flour.
In such a case this would answer as well as, and instead
of, baking-powder or yeast. A very superior quality flour,
called pastry whites, should alone be used for best Pastry ;
commoner kinds being made from what is called seconds
or household flour. Eggs when used should be the very
Fig. 129. Egg-whisk (Mathews and Son).
freshest, and are better if well beaten in a large bowl
(see Fig. 128), with a strong wire whisk (see Fig. 129).
The greasy matter may consist of a variety of kinds :
fresh butter, suet, lard, dripping, &c. In every case it
should be perfectly pure, clean, and fresh.
Puff Paste differs from Short-Paste in one essential
particular, and that is the mode in which the fatty matter
is blended with the flour. The best Puff Paste is made by
Paste and Pastry — continued.
rolling in the butter after the flour-and-water dough is
made. Short-Paste is made by working the fatty matter
into the flour before making it into dough. Accepting
Fig. 130. Making Puff Paste— Bay or Well.
these two kinds as the types from which numerous
varieties spring, they shall be described separately.
Puff Paste. — By the French cook this is styled Feuille-
tage, and is prepared as follows : Weigh out the flour,
best Vienna for choice, previously dried and shaken
through a sieve, and use an equal amount of best fresh
butter. In the summer keep this butter on the ice till
wanted ; in winter knead it in a
cloth to make it supple. Then
spread the flour on a table or
marble Paste-slab ; make a bay or
well in the centre (see Fig. 130).
Into this bay put a little salt, and
gradually pour in water whilst the
flour is worked in by a circular
motion of two fingers round and
round the inside of the well until
sufficient moisture has been added
to work the remainder of the flour
into a firm pliant dough. If this
is well and correctly made it will
not stick either to the table or to
the hands. Cover the Paste with a
cloth, and let it stand for a few minutes to settle, but
first be quite sure that the Paste is stiff, as it would
be disadvantageous to work in more flour or water,
as the case might require, after the dough has
settled. In the course of ten minutes or a-quarter-of-
an-hour the dough will be ready to work. Sprinkle the
slab with flour by means of a dredger (see Fig. 131),
Fig. 132. Plain Rolling-pin (Mathews and Son).
which should contain very dry flour only, or the per-
forations in the lid will get blocked ; place the Paste on
this, and roll it out with a rolling-pin, which may be
either plain (see Fig. 132), or fitted with an axle and
two handles (see Fig. 133), so that the hands remain
quiet in working— either answers admirably. The one
with the handles, which is sometimes preferred, permits
Fig. 133. Revolving Rolling-pin.
the operator to bear heavily on the Paste, but this
is not always an advantage. Roll out the Paste to
a square, not more than j-in. thick. Roll out the
butter also, on a slab, to a square shape, and lay
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
113
Paste and Pastry — continued.
it on the Paste (see Fig. 134). Fold over the sides
(see Fig. 135) and then the ends in such a manner
that the butter is entirely wrapped up. Roll this out
with the pin, pushing the Paste forward as well as the
Fig. 134. Making Puff Paste.
butter in its interior; continue rolling until it forms a
long strip (see Fig. 136 A), not more than -Jin, or
Jin. in thickness, preserving- the regularity of shape as
well as possible. Next fold it over in three layers (see Fig.
136 B), and when thus folded (see Fig. 136 C), give it another
turn as shown by the dotted line: this is called one turn.
Roll it out again to A, and fold again as in B-C : this makes
another turn. Every time this process is repeated adds
what is termed a turn to the Paste ; the very most required
at any time for the lightest of French Feuilletage being
six turns : five are generally recognised as good enough for
most purposes, and many pastrycooks will not exceed
three. A very famous French cook advises that under all
circumstances, whether in winter or summer, the Paste
should be set to cool for ten minutes between each two
turns. The greatest care must be taken to prevent the
butter escaping from the Paste. This happens, says
Dubois, “ if the Paste is too soft, rolled out too thin, or
not rolled out regularly to a flat, that is, if it remains
thicker on one side than on the other.” The same author
informs us that “ In summer it is very difficult to make
good Puff Paste without the help of ice ora cool cellar;
but this inconvenience may be obviated by replacing the
butter with beef-suet. This suet must previously be well
picked over, then soaked in fresh water, well drained, and
then pounded,” and thus made into a fine smooth Paste.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
Should it require to be rendered more supple, it can be
worked in the cloth as prescribed for the butter.
The plan of making Puff Paste, as practised by British
professional pastrycooks, differs from the French mode
in one or two particulars, as shown in the following in-
structions, contributed by Mr. W. A. Rawson to the Cooks’
Journal :
Take 31b. of well-dried sifted flour and the same quan-
tity of butter ; mb a fourth of the butter until it is
taken up in the flour, then mix with water, adding the
j uieq of half a lemon. If salted butter be used, it must
be washed in cold water, so as to free it from salt. Let
the Paste be firm, for if it is made soft it will not be a
success. When you have proceeded so far, roll out the
Paste on a slab to about Jin. thick, and spread the
remainder of the butter over it, which should not be too
soft or too hard, but spreadable. This done, fold over
and roll out again ; repeat this three times, then roll it up
loosely, cover with a floured cloth, and put it in a cool
place for two or three hours, or until wanted for use.
You will understand from this that Puff Paste consists of
a number of layers of butter and dough ; these layers
should be worked without breaking through into each other.
You must therefore use your rolling-pin very lightly, for
if you use it too heavily you will perforate the Paste, and
the butter will run out in cooking.
Fig. 136. Making Puff Paste.
The trimmings of Puff Paste or pieces cut away should
never be mixed up again with the original mass, as the
cut edges would allow the butter to overrun the layers,
and spoil its flakiness. It is commonly used for making
patties, pies, or decorating tartlets, &c., and is known to
the pastrycook as second or patten Paste.
Of the varieties of Puff Paste the following may be
considered the more important:
(1) Sift 21b. of very dry flour, put it on the table, make
a hollow in the centre, and throw in 1 pinch of salt
and two or three little pieces of butter that have been
cut off 21b. In making this Paste, the same quantity of
butter as of flour is used. Work the butter and flour
together, then add the beaten yolks of three eggs and
sufficient water to make a Paste of the consistency of the
butter. If the Paste is not of the right consistency, the
butter will break through when the Paste is turned. When
the dough has been lightly worked, mould it into a ball,
which flatten quickly in the middle. Put the remainder of
the 21b. of butter on the table, and work it with a little
water to extract the butter-milk, then roll it in a cloth,
and squeeze till all the moisture is out. Flatten the butter,
put it in the Paste, and fold the Paste well over it. Sift
a little flour over the table, and roll the Paste out with a
rolling-pin into a long strip. Double the Paste in three,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Jtc., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOT,. II.
114
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry— continued.
then roll it out again, sprinkling a little Hour over to
prevent it sticking. Sprinkle a baking sheet with flour,
double the Paste in three folds, put it on the baking- sheet,
and leave for a short time in a cool temperature. Roll
the Paste out again twice, proceeding as before ; then let
it rest again, and give it another two turns, which will
make six in all ; then roll it out to a long shape, and
fold it in two. It is then ready for use.
(2) Put lib. of butter in a basin of cold water, and
work it with the hands till light and waxy ; this frees it
of the salt and butter-milk and lightens it, so that the
Paste will be more delicate. Divide the butter, flatten it,
and if soft put it into a basin of ice-water to harden.
Turn lqt. of pastry-flour on to a table, and mix with it
1 table-spoonful each of sugar and salt. Rub with the
hands one-third of the butter into the flour, pour in sufficient
iced water to make a stiff Paste, and stir vigorously and
quickly with a knife. Sprinkle a little flour on the table,
roll the Paste on it with a floured rolling-pin, taking care
not to break it. Roll from you, and to one side. When
the paste is about Jin. thick, drain the water off the rest
of the butter, break it into little pieces, and spread them
on the Paste. Sift a little flour lightly over, fold the
Paste one-fourth from each side, so that the edges meet,
then fold it from the ends, but do not let these meet.
Double the Paste, beat it lightly, then roll down to about
Jin. in thickness. Fold as before, and roll down again.
Repeat this operation three times if for pies, and six
times if for vol-au-vents, patties, tarts, &c. Place it on
ice to harden, where it should be kept for at least an hour
before using. In the summer, if the Paste sticks when
being rolled down, put it on a tin sheet, and place it on
ice. The less flour used in rolling out the Paste, the
lighter it will be.
(3) Have ready lib. each of flour and fresh butter, 1 pint
of ice-water, and 1 saltspoonful of salt. If the butter be
salt instead of fresh no salt is necessary, but wash the j
butter well before using it. Pour the flour on the table, i
make a hollow space in the centre, put in it loz. of the
butter, adding the pint of ice-water and the salt, and
gradually mix the whole well together. Put it aside in a
cool place for five minutes. Sprinkle the space of a square
foot of the table with a very little flour, place the dough
on it, lengthen and widen it with a roller to the thickness
of Jin. and lay the 15oz. of butter (which must be very
firm) in one lump in the centre. Fold over the four edges so
as to enclose it, flatten again lightly with the roller until
it forms a piece 2in. thick, and put it away to cool for
ten minutes. Roll it again lengthwise, fold it into four,
and let it rest for another five minutes. Then repeat the
same twice more, rolling it each time in a different
direction. After five minutes it will be ready for use.
(4) Sift lib. of flour upon a board or table, and work
in Jib. of butter ; then add sufficient water to make it the
stiffness or softness of butter, work it up smooth, then
roll it out lengthwise, Jin. thick ; place fib. more butter
cut into slices half way over the Paste, dust lightly with
flour, and double it up. Press down with a rolling-pin, and
let it lie for a few minutes; roll it three times, thinner
each tune, letting it lie a few minutes between each
roll, and prevent it from sticking to the board or rolling-
pin.
(5) Sift lib. of flour on a paste-board, and rub in 4oz. of
butter until quite smooth. Beat an egg in 1 table-spoon-
ful of brandy and J teacupful of milk, mix it gradually
into the flour, and work it to a smooth Paste with a
knife, moistening occasionally, if necessary, with a small
quantity of milk. Knead the dough with the hands on a
floured board, roll it out, p>ut Jib. of butter on it, and
fold the dough over it. Roll and fold the Paste four
times, touching it as little as possible with the hands.
It is then ready for use.
(6) Make a cavity in about Jib. of sifted flour on a
board and work in the white of one egg and yolks of two ;
also J wineglassful of warm water and 1 table-spoonful of
warmed butter. Work well until thoroughly kneaded, roll
it out several times, and cut it into two or three pieces.
Roll them out quite thin, put them in layers into a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Paste and Pastry — continued.
buttered mould, cutting the Paste to fit them, with a small
quantity of butter between the layers, and with a sharp
knife mark a cover on the Paste, cutting it to the required
depth, but taking care not to injure the bottom. Put the
Paste to bake in a moderate oven, remove the cover, fill
up the cavity with any desired preserve, remove a portion
of the Paste from the cover, replace it, and serve hot or
cold, as may be desired.
(7) Put flour and butter on a paste -board, allowing fib.
of butter for every pound of flour ; add a small quantity
of salt, and chop the butter until well mixed in with the
flour ; then squeeze in a small quantity of lemon-juice and
sufficient cold water to mix it into a firm Paste. Roll
the Paste out to about Jin. in thickness, then fold it over
in three, and roll it out again. After this has been twice
repeated the Paste will be ready for use.
(8) Prepare lib. of Puff Paste, give it twelve turns, then
let it rest for half-an-hour. Butter the interior of a plain
round or oval-shaped mould, line it with the Puff Paste,
line the Paste with paper, fill it with breadcrumbs to
keep it in shape, and bake till rather crisp. When the
Sawn is cooked, empty out the breadcrumbs and remove
the paper. Turn the flawn out of the mould, dust caster
sugar over it, and glaze under a salamander ; leave the
flawn till cold, then fill it with any kind of fruit that has
been cooked and left till cold, and serve.
Half Puff Paste.— This is made as for Puff Paste, using
12oz. of flour, Joz. of salt, two eggs, lOoz. of butter, and
1 teacupful of water, keeping the Paste very firm.
Puff Paste made with Beef-suet. —To prepare Puff Paste
with beef-suet, chop the suet very fine, put it in a mortar,
and pound to a pulp, adding gradually sufficient olive oil
to give it a body, and to make it as easy to work as
butter. When thoroughly worked up, mix in the flour as
for ordinary Puff Paste. Lard may be substituted for oil,
using half lard and half beef-suet.
Puff Paste made with Lard. — To prepare Puff Paste with
lard, use 12oz. of flour, 2oz. of lard, the yolks of two
eggs, and about 2 drachms of salt. Work these into a
Paste, let it stand for a few minutes, then roll it out, brush
over with warm lard, fold the Paste in three, roll it out
gently again, let it stand for a few minutes, and continue
in this way, brushing the Paste with lard until 12oz. have
been worked into the flour. It is then ready for use in
the ordinary way.
Puff Paste made with Oil. — Puff Paste prepared with
sweet-oil is made in the same way as for Puff Paste
made with Lard, using the same quantity of oil as lard,
and working it in in the same manner.
Puff Paste made with Veal-suet. — Put three veal udders
into a stockpot and boil ; let them get cold, trim off any
uneatable parts, put them into a mortar and pound, adding
sufficient oil or lard to make it of the consistence of butter.
Short-Paste. — This, as lias already been explained,
differs from Puff Paste in that the butter or other fat
is rubbed into the flour before wetting. In other particulars
one Short-Paste may differ from another according to the
fancy of the cook as shown in the following receipts :
Short -Paste for Savoury Pies. — (1) Sift lib. of dried
flour on to the slab or table, collect it altogether in a
heap, and make a hollow in the centre. In this hollow
put 1 teaspoonful of salt and the yolks of two or three
eggs. Put into a small stewpan 1 teacupful of water and
Jib. of fresh butter ; set this over the fire till the butter
is melted, then pour it, little by little, into the hollow
in the flour, and work the flour in with two fingers until
it is all taken up and worked into a stiff Paste ; work
this on the slab with both hands till it is well kneaded,
then gather it together, roll it into a ball, wrap it up in
a floured cloth, and let it stand for two or three hours
in a cool place ; by this time the dough will have set, and
be ready for use. The rolling-out should be done lightly ;
any heavy handling spoils this crust.
(2) Sift lib. of flour on a table, make a hollow in the
centre, and pour into it Jib. of well- washed butter, 1 salt-
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
115
Paste and Pastry — continued.
spoonful of salt, and 1 gill of cold water. Knead the salt,
butter, and water well for two minutes, then incorporate
the flour gradually, which will take three minutes more,
and knead sharply with the hands. Detach the Paste from
the table, roll it into a ball, then press it again on the
table in different directions for two minutes ; remove again
from the table, flour the table slightly, lay the Paste over,
and with the fingers of the right hand press down the
Paste in the centre, and with the left bring up the edges
all round to the centre ; repeat this three times, and when
finished the Paste must have its original shape. Lay it
on a dish, cover with a towel, set it in a cool place for
twenty minutes, and it will be ready for use.
(3) Put lib. of flour into a basin with Alb. of dripping or
lard and dripping mixed; work the dripping lightly into
the flour with the tips of the fingers, keeping your hands
out of the flour as much as possible. When properly mixed
the flour should resemble fine breadcrumbs or coarse meal.
Then mix in quickly just sufficient water to make it to a stiff
Paste. Flour the hands, take the Paste out of the bowl,
and put it on a paste board that has been dredged with a
little flour ; work it a little with your lingers, still keeping
the hands from it as much as possible. Flour the rolling-
pin and roll the Paste out three times, folding it up twice,
and cover the pie. If it is a fruit pie brush over with
milk or the beaten white of an egg and dredge powdered
white sugar over it.
(4) Make lib. of flour quite hot in the oven. Put
jib. of butter and j pint of water in a saucepan over
the fire, and let it melt. When the flour is hot, mix into
it, with the blade of a knife, jib. of cold butter; then
pour the water and melted butter out of the saucepan
into the middle of the flour, stir it well together with
the blade of the knife, and work it a little with your
fingers. Flour the rolling-pin and paste-board, put the
Paste on the board, roll it out once, put it over the pie,
and bake immediately.
(5) Put lib. of Hour on a pasteboard with 4oz. of
caster sugar ; cut 1 Ooz. of butter into slices, put it in the
flour, and chop it all well together with a knife. Beat the
yolks of six eggs together with 1 wineglassful of brandy,
and mix them into the flour gradually, working it until
quite smooth. Dredge flour over the paste board, and roll
the Paste out thin; fold it over, beat it with the rolling-
pin, roll it out, fold it twice, and roll it out again. The
Paste is then ready for use.
(6) First weigh the necessary quantity of flour and put
it into a large bowl, keeping back as much as will more
than half fill the flour-dredger ; then put into the Hour in
the bowl fib. of lard, butter, or dripping to every pound
of flour, and work it lightly into the flour with the tips of
your fingers, keeping the hands out of the flour as much
as possible. The butter, lard, or dripping, whichever is
used, must be thoroughly incorporated with the flour so
that it resembles fine breadcrumbs or coarse meal in
texture. Then mix in quickly barely enough cold water
or milk to form a stiff Paste. Dredge a little flour on the
paste-board, and flour the fingers; then take the Paste out
of the bowl, put it on the paste-board, work it a little
with the fingers, still keeping the hands from it as much
as possible, and roll the Paste out three times with a
floured rolling-pin, folding it up twice, and put it on the
tart.
(7) Put lib. of Hour into a basin, sprinkle over it 1
saltspoonful of salt, and mix well 'with it All), of finely-
chopped suet. Stir in then quickly just enough water to
form it to a stiff Paste, dredge the rolling-pin and paste-
board with flour, put the Paste on the board, work it a
little with your fingers, and then roll it out.
Besides Puff Paste and Short-Paste, there are a few
others especially recommended for certain reasons, which
are explained in the following receipts : They may be
regarded as variations of one or both of the two previously
described.
For other Pastes, such as Brioche, Choux, Fran-
gipane, Macaroni, FTouille, Potato, Rice, &c., see
those headings.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
Chopped Paste. — Put lqt. of pastry-flour, 2 breakfast-cup-
fuls of butter, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful
of salt on a chopping-board and chop them all together
till well mixed ; add j breakfast-cupful of iced water, and
continue chopping. When thoroughly mixed, lift the
Paste, sprinkle the board with flour, then roll the Paste
out thinly on it. The Paste is better when stood upon
ice for a time, as it should be hard before used.
Crisp Paste. — Sift jib. of flour and 2oz. of powdered white
sugar ; and mixing them together, work them into a
paste with the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Use a
wooden spoon to mix the Paste, touching it as little as
possible with the hands. This Paste may be used in making
fruit tarts ; it should be baked in a hot oven, and imme-
diately before putting it into the oven should be brushed
over with well-beaten white of egg and sprinkled with
powdered white sugar.
Croquante Paste. — Mix Jib. of caster sugar with lib. of
flour ; then stir in a sufficient number of beaten yolks of
eggs to form a smooth Paste. When well kneaded, roll it
out to the specified shape and about jin. thick. Rub the
shape with butter and press the Paste closely over it to
cut the pattern well through, then lay it on a baking-
tin, dip a paste-brush in the beaten white of egg, and
brush the surface of the Paste over; sprinkle with caster
sugar and bake it in a slow oven. When cooked, remove
it carefully from the tin, and cover with jam.
Geneva Paste. — Rub lib. of fresh butter into lib. of finely-
sifted dried flour until the butter is entirely absorbed,
then work in lib. of caster sugar and jib. of blanched
and pounded almonds, adding three bitter almonds to the
quantity and a little salt. Mix with sufficient beaten egg
to make a stiff Paste. This is useful for making Genevese
and other fancy Pastry.
Genoa Paste. — Sift Alb. of flour on to a table, make a
hollow in the centre, put in 1 breakfast-cupful of caster
sugar and four eggs, mix thoroughly, and afterwards work
in 4oz. of melted butter. Let it stand for a few minutes,
and it is then ready and may be used for making many
kinds of fancy Pastiy. Some varieties of this Paste are
given under GENOESE PASTRY.
German Paste. — (1) Rub Alb. of butter in jib. of sifted flour;
then mix with it Alb. of caster sugar and the grated peel
of one lemon. When mixed and rubbed through a fine
hair sieve, work it with a little cold water to a stiff Paste.
Sprinkle some flour over a paste-board, slightly flour a
rolling pin, and roll the Paste to about Ain. in thickness ;
spread over the surface jib. of butter, then fold it up,
sprinkle more flour over the board and rolling-pin, and
roll it out again ; spread another jib. of butter, proceed as
before, use another jib. of butter, making in all lib. The
Paste is then ready for use.
(2) Sift Alb. of flour into a basin and mix a small quantity
of salt with it ; beat an egg together with 1 teacupful of
water and stir it in with the flour. Put 3 pints of milk
into a saucepan, and when boiling drop the mixture into
it in flakes. Boil for five or six minutes, then turn the
Paste on to a hot dish, dredge over caster sugar, and serve.
Italian Paste. — What is known by this name is merely
an admixture of fine wheat-flour and water, used chiefly
in the manufacture of macaroni and vermicelli.
macaroni Paste. — This consists essentially of the best white
flour moistened with water. It is more generally known
as Italian Paste.
Office Paste (Pate d'Office). — (1) Make a bay in l^lb. of flour
and work in the whites of two eggs and yolks of five, lib.
of crushed loaf sugar, and a little salt, adding if required
another yolk of egg so as to have the Paste as firm as
possible. Work it five or six times, or until it is quite
smooth and well mixed. It is then ready for use, and
may be cut into pieces of any desired shape ; blit when
being baked care should be taken to squeeze the Paste on
to the tin or whatever is used so as to exclude the air,
which would spoil the Paste by cooking it unevenly.
Office Paste is used for making foundations and ornaments
for various custards, baked egg puddings, and creamy pies ;
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Sec., referred to, sec under their special hcad6.
116
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
it is palatable, and more digestible tlian Pastry made with
butter or shortening.
(2) Sift lib. of flour on a paste board, make a hollow in
the centre, and put in Jib. of powdered sugar, two eggs,
the yolks of two more, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Mix
these ingredients to a smooth Paste, using the tips of the
fingers, and then knead the Paste thoroughly until it is
smooth and firm. If the Paste is too dry to knead well,
add one or more yolks to produce the proper consistency,
and then roll it out and use it.
Paste for Borders. — Put into a bowl the yolks of six or
eight eggs, a few drops of water, and a little salt, and mix
in flour until it is so stiff that it can scarcely lie worked.
Beat and work it till quite smooth, and keep it moist until
required; roll it out quite thin, cut it in the desired shapes,
and then place them upon the dish before they get too dry.
Brash over with white of egg.
Paste for Cheese Cakes. — Mix until lib. of best sifted flour
3oz. of caster sugar. Beat Jib. of butter till of a creamy
consistence, then sift the flour and sugar gradually into it.
When well mixed, work in the whole yolks of three eggs
and the well beaten whites of two. It is then ready for use.
Paste made with Cream. — (1) Mix J teaspoonful of salt
and J teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda with 1 breakfast-
cupful of cream ; stir in gradually sufficient flour to make
a stiff Paste. Sprinkle a little flour on the table, and roll
the Paste out on it to about Jin. thick. Cut about 2oz.
of butter into small pieces and put it on the Paste ; sift
over a little flour, double the Paste, and roll it out thin.
It is then ready to be used.
(2) Put 4 breakfast-cupfuls of flour in a basin, and mix
in 1 pinch of salt and A pint of thick cream. Put the
Paste on a floured baking-sheet and leave it for half -an -
liour. Sprinkle some flour on a paste-board and roll the
Paste out on it ; cut Jib. of butter in small pieces, put
them on the Paste, roll it out five times, then cut it into
any desired shape. Dip a paste-brusli into beaten yolk
of egg, brush the Paste over, and bake.
Paste for Custards or Preserved Fruits. — Put 6oz. of
butter over the fire in a saucepan with 6 table-spoonfuls
of water, let it come to the boil, and then mix into it as
much flour as will make it into a stiff Paste. Knead and
beat it with a rolling-pin till smooth. When quite
smooth knead it into a lump and turn a pan down over
it or cover with a cloth till it is almost cold. Take a piece
of the Paste, large enough for the purpose, knead it into
a lump, then press the knuckles of the left hand into the top
of this lump of Paste, pretty nearly in the middle, and
with the right hand keep working the Paste up the back
of the left hand, shifting it round and round meanwhile,
forming the Paste into a circular shape with a flat bottom
and upright sides like an ordinary jam-pot. The Paste
ought to be stiff enough to keep in shape when the hand
is withdrawn if it has not been pressed too thin or into
holes. Trim the edges, line the Paste with paper till half
baked, then remove the paper, pour in the custard or
preserve, and finish the baking.
Paste made with Dripping. — This requires great care, as
the dripping runs very readily, even the heat of the hand
being sufficient to melt it. it should be made in a cool
room with cool hands, and the dripping should he clarified.
To every lib. of flour allow 6oz. of dripping and 1 tea-
spoonful of baking-powder. Mix the baking-powder with
the flour, and add at the same tune 1 teaspoonful of fine
salt. Break the dripping into small pieces about the size
of peas, and rub these pieces into the flour until all have
been taken up ; then moisten the flour with a teacupful
of cold water, and work until it is a stiff Paste, adding a
little more water now and again if necessary. It can then
be rolled out on a well-floured board, folding it over and
over again to three turns.
Paste for Meat and Game Pies. — Use Alb. of butter to ilh.
of flour ; chop one half the butter into the flour, and add
1 teaspoonful of salt and enough cold water to mix it to
a smooth Paste just soft enough to roll out. If ice-water
is used, and the Paste is mixed with a knife instead oi
Paste and Pastry — continued.
the hand, it can be kept cooler, and will be lighter and
more delicate than if mixed with the hands. In making,
touch the Paste as little and as lightly as possible with the
hands, because heating and pressing heavily upon it make
it dense and tough. After the Paste is mixed and rolled
about Ain. thick, dredge it with flour, cut half the remain-
ing butter into slices, and lay them on the Paste, leaving
a space of about lin. all around the edges ; dredge the
butter with flour, turn the edges in all round to enclose
the outside layers of butter, and then double the Paste,
and again roll it out about Ain. thick ; put the rest of
the butter on it in slices, dredge with flour, fold in the
edges, double it, and roll out as already directed. If any
Paste remains after the pie is made, wrap it in a floured
cloth, and keep in a cool dry place ; it will be good for
several days, and only requires to be rolled out two or
three times before using to make it quite light.
Paste for Ornamenting Tartlets. — Rub loz. of butter
into 4oz. of flour. Mix it to a stiff Paste with a little
cold water, rub it well on the board till it begins to
string, then cut it into four or five pieces and roll them
out : draw it into fine strings, and lay them across the
tartlets in any fancied pattern.
Paste for Oyster Patties. — Put fib. of well-sifted flour
in a basin, and mix in with it the strained juice of a
lemon that has been mixed with a sufficient quantity of
water to form a light dough. Dredge a marble slab with
flour, put the dough on it, and knead it well ; then roll
it out, spread fib. of butter over, fold it again, and roll
out four times, then fold it in three and stand it in a
cool place. In about two hours’ time, roll the Paste out
to about Jin. in thickness, and cut out several large
rounds and the same number of small rounds, using two
different-sized Paste-cutters, which should be dipped in
flour each time they are used to prevent them sticking.
Lay the rounds on a baking- tin, and bake them until
lightly browned. When cooked, scoop a little of the Paste
out of the centre of each round, fill the hollow with
whatever may have been prepared for it, and cover with
the smaller rounds.
Paste for Patties. — Sift lib. of the best white flour through
a fine wire sieve on to a marble slab; mix with it a few
drops of lemon- juice, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and stir it into
a smooth stiff Paste with cold water. Squeeze the water
out of lib. of butter by putting it in a cloth and working
it well with the hands; then put it in the middle of the
Paste, fold the edges round it, and roll it out. Fold the
Paste in three, turn it round and roll it the other way.
Let it rest for twenty minutes, then roll it twice more,
and so on until it has been rolled six times. Next roll
the Paste out to the thickness of Ain., and with a plain
tin cutter, 2Jin. in diameter, cut the Paste into rounds ;
the cutter should be dipped into boiling water each time
it is used. Place the rounds on a baking-tin, brush them
over with a paste-brusb dipped in beaten egg, then with
a tin cutter about lAin. in diameter cut half-way through
the centre of each round. Bake them in a brisk oven,
taking care not to let the Paste brown too much. When
the patties are cooked, lift the Paste where the circle is
marked, that being to form the covers, scoop out some of the
Paste, and fill them with whatever has been prepared for them.
Paste for Pies. — (1) Put 31b. of well-sifted flour on to a
board or table, work in 20oz. of butter, make a bay, and
work in the yolks of four eggs, loz. of salt, and 1 break-
fast-cupful of cold water. Should the Paste while being
used be too hard and crack, it may be rolled out again
and slightly damped with water before being worked up.
If preferred, the butter may be worked in with the liquids
before being introduced to the flour, which must be well
worked in, adding it gradually. It is far easier to make
this Paste in winter than in summer.
(2) Put 4oz. of butter and 4oz. of lard into a saucepan
with 1 pint of water, and place it on the fire until boiling.
Put in a small quantity of salt, and stir in gradually
about 31b. of flour. Work and beat the mixture, dredging
it occasionally with flour until a smooth firm Paste is
formed. Let it get quite cold before using.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
117
Paste and Pastry — continued.
(3) Work into lib. of sifted flour Jll>. of lard or besf-
dripping and 1 dessert-spoonful of salt. When thoroughly
mixed, pour in enough cold water to bind it together.
Flour a paste -slab or table and rolling-pin; take a part of
the Paste and roll it to les; than Jin. in thickness. For
the upper or outside crust of a pie, roll the Paste out
thin, spread a hit of butter half the size of an egg over
it, fold it up, roll it out again, and cover the pie. Place
a narrow rim of Paste round the edge of the dish, and
fill with the desired fruit, either raw or stewed, and cover
with the rolled Paste.
(4) Sift 12oz. of flour on to a board, make a bay, and
work in Goz. of butter, the yolks of two eggs, joz. of
salt, and about 4 teacupful of cold water. Continue to
work the Paste as for ordinary Puli' Paste, hut giving it
one more turn for having more butter in it. It is
more difficult to blend in summer. Should the butter
be too oily in summer-time, it should he iced before
being used. If the Paste becomes heated it should be
cut into thin slices, moistened with water, and then
worked together.
(5) Sift on a table lib. of flour, make a bay in the
centre, pour in 1 pint of cold water, and add 2oz. of
butter and J table-spoonful of salt ; knead the ingredients
well together with the hand for two minutes, and gra-
dually and slowly incorporate the flour with the rest. Lay
the Paste on a dish, and put it in a cool place for three
minutes. Have ready Goz. of well-washed butter in one
lump, return the Paste to the table, flatten it slightly,
put the lump of butter in the centre, fold over the edges
so as to enclose the butter, roll it out lengthwise with
the roller, and refold the Paste into three folds. Put it
again in a cool place for three minutes, then roll it
again, fold it as before, and set it on the ice for five
minutes. The Paste will now be ready to use, and by
keeping it in the ice-chest it will remain in good con-
dition for three days.
Paste for Savoury Pies. — Boil about 2oz. of lard and
2oz. of dripping with 1 teacupful of water. While
this is hot, mix with it smoothly sufficient flour to make
a stiff Paste. Knead it well, and beat it with the rolling-
pin till quite smooth. Knead it into a lump, and turn a
pan down over it till it is almost cold. Then roll it to
a proper thickness on a floured paste-board with a floured
rolling-pin. Cut out a piece for the bottom of the pie,
a piece for the top, and a long narrow piece to form the
sides. Fasten the bottom to the sides by brushing egg over
the edges and then pressing them well together, joining up
the side edges in the same way. Fill the pie, then put
on the cover, brushing the edges over with beaten egg,
and pinching them together. If the pie is made in a tin
mould, all the edges must be fastened together in just
the same way. The tin must be well buttered before
putting the Paste in, and when the pie is baked it should
be slipped out of the tin and put back again into the
oven to brown the sides, first brushing beaten egg all
over.
Paste made with Suet. — (1) _ Take all the skin off, and
finely chop lib. of beef-suet, using a little flour to prevent
it sticking to the knife. Mix 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder and 1 pinch of salt with lib. of flour, then put
the suet in ; work it into a light Paste with a little cold
water, but do not make it too wet. It may be used for
boiled or baked puddings and pies.
(2) Put 31b. of beef suet that has been melted in a
saucepan with 3 pints of cold water and 31b. of butter.
Put it over the fire till nearly boiling and the suet and
butter are dissolved; then pour it at once over the flour.
The exact quantity cannot be stated, as some flours
absorb more liquid than others. The preparation is then
ready for use.
(3) Boil about 2oz. of lard and 2oz. of dripping in 1 tea-
cupful of water. While this is hot, mix with it smoothly
flour enough to make a stiff Paste, knead it well, and
beat it with a rolling-pin till quite smooth; make it into
a lump and turn a pan Gown over it till it is almost cold.
Then take a piece large enough for the pie, knead it into
a lump, then press the knuckles of the left hand into the
Paste and Pastry — continued.
top of the Paste nearly in the middle, and with the right
hand keep working the Paste up the back of the left hand,
shifting it round and round meanwhile, forming the Paste
into a circular form with a flat bottom and upright sides
like an ordinary jam-pot. The Paste ought to lie stiff
enough to keep in shape when the hand is withdrawn if
it has not been pressed too thin or into holes. When
properly raised or pressed into form the meat may be put
into it and another piece of the Paste, rolled out, laid on
for the cover. Brush the edges over with a little beaten
egg, trim, and press them together. A small ornament for
the top may be made of the trimmings of Paste. When
the pie is finished, brush beaten egg over the top and
sides, and bake it.
Transparent Paste for Tartlets. — Warm fib. of butter
without oiling it ; when nearly cold again, stir in one
beaten egg, and continue beating for a little while ; sift
in with the butter and eggs lib. of the finest dried white
flour, and make a thin Paste with it. Butter some patty-
pans or tart-dishes, line them with the Paste, brush over
a little water, and sift some caster sugar over ; bake them
at once in a moderate oven.
Pastry. — Having made the Paste, the next thing for
the pastrycook to do is to use it ; and this brings him to
the threshold of his art. He sees before him a vast array
of ingenious and beautiful subjects, amongst which are to
be found Patties, Pies, Tartlets, Souffles, Cakes,
Yol-au-Yents, Plawns, Puddings, Bouchees, Crou-
stades, Puffs, Biscuits, Decorative and Fancy
Fig. 137. Dough-knife (Mathews and Son).
Pastry. Most of these are described under special head-
ings ; in this article the details necessarily must be of a
limited character, illustrating the prime features of the art
rather than the details of execution. The artistic pastry-
cook, however, requires certain aids to his work beyond
those already named, and these will be found described
hereunder.
Fig. 138. Palette-knife (Mathews and Son).
One of the essentials of Pastry-making is a knife (see
Fig. 137) shaped conveniently for cutting dough, such as
would be required for shaping or trimming. A palette-
knife (see Fig. 138) is also found very useful as well as a
little instrument called a jigger (s?e Fig. 139), which has
a fluted cutting-wheel at one end and corrugated pincers
at the other for nipping and stamping the edge of a pie
Fig. 139. Jigger.
and other Pastry. Ho pastrycook would consider his
apparatus complete without a set of Pastry-cutters, plain
and fluted rounds, ovals, and other shapes (see Figs. 140
and 141) suitable for cutting out patterns to be used
for various pimposes. The value of these cutters is shown
in the manufacture of bouchees (see Fig. 142) or rissoles
(see Fig. 143) ; they are also very useful for cutting
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Ac., referred to, see under their special heads.
118
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
out Paste-leaves, &c., to be used for decorating raised
and other pies.
Tlie pastrycook should provide himself with a brush
(see Pig. 144) for moistening the edges of the Paste
with water to make them adhere, or for other purposes
Fig. 140. Pastry-cutters, various designs (E. Cox).
such as glazing, as well as a brush (see Pig. 145) for
applying softened butter ; these will be found most useful.
Another important requisite is a Pastry-bag (see Pig. 146),
this is also known as a biscuit-bag, being used chiefly for
apportioning and depositing such small quantities of soft
Fig. 141. Fluted or Scalloped Pastry-cutters (E. Cox).
dough as would be required for the manufacture of
macaroons, lady’s fingers, and other biscuits. For making
tartlets, patties, and other such goods, a great variety
of pans or moulds (see Fig. 147) are designed by manu-
facturers. In the making of cakes, the pastry-
Fig. 142. Bouchee.
cook has an immense variety of tins for shaping ;
first of all he has the round cake-ring (see Pig. 148),
which answers so well for the manufacture of wedding-
cakes ; then the shallow cake-ring (see Pig. 149), for flat
Paste and Pastry — continued.
cakes ; the oblong tin (see Pig. 150), for Genoa and similar
cakes ; square (see Pig. 151), for spiced loaves ; round
(see Fig. 152) with straight sides; round with sloping
sides (see Fig. 153), and oval (see Pig. 154). In the way
sponge baba cakes (see Fig. 157). Although the dawn
(see Fig. 158) seems to have gone out of date to some
extent, probably because it requires a ring, it is neverthe-
FiG. 145. Butter-brush (Mathews and Son).
less one of those productions that give the pastrycook
almost unlimited scope for the exercise of his talent. The
old-fashioned puff (see Fig. 159) is another species
of Pastry that deserves encouragement; it is easily
manufactured and gives most satisfactory results pro-
vided the Pastry be light, although not necessarily so
Fig. 147. Tartlet- and Patty-moulds.
light as that required for a vol-au-vent (see Fig. 160).
In the way of fancy Pastry, some very pretty designs are
occasionally prepared, such as bird’s-nests (see Fig. 161),
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
119
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry— con tinned.
walnuts (see Fig. 162), and a variety of other tasty
designs, even to the extent of making a cornucopia (see
Fig. 163). To produce cornucopias, special moulds
Fig. 148.
Round Cake-ring (Mathews and Son).
(see Fig. 164) are required, which open by means of pins
and hinges in such a way that the Paste can be removed
whole and perfect so soon as it is set by baking. One of
Fig. 149. Shallow Cake-ring.
the most modern samples of fancy Pastry is the cannelon,
which is usually filled with cream and garnished with pre-
serves. A cannelon is made by twisting a long narrow
Fig. 150. Oblong Cake-tin (Mathews and Son).
strip of Puff Paste round a stick prepared for the purpose
(see Fig. 165). The stick is removed after the cannelon is
baked, and the place where the stick came from filled with
Fig. 151. Square Cake-tin
(Mathews and Son).
Fig. 152. Round Cake-tin
with Straight Sides
(Mathews and Son).
Paste and Pastry— continued.
above, completing the drying of all parts equally without
making the underneath sodden. Most kinds of fancy
Pastry require a little drying in the hot-closet, a sort of
Fig. 155. Madeleine Cake and Mould.
tin-lined screen (see Fig. 167), fitted with shelves, which
is open on one side towards the fire. _ In this, if placed
upon a Pastry- wire as described, biscuits containing sugar
Fig. 156. Breakfast Cake and Hoop.
become crisp and keep better, especially if stored in
regular biscuit-tins. Sometimes the pastrycook finds it
advisable to decorate his uroductions with little round
Fig. 157. Baba-moulds (Adams and Son).
balls, or beads of Paste, called quenelles ; these may
be dipped in different kinds of coloured sugars, chocolate,
and other icing, and if carefully used afford a very
Fig. 158. Fi.awn and Ring.
jam or cream, or both, or any other sweet that the fancy
of the pastrycook may suggest. This kind of Pastry being
very delicate, it requires great care in handling, and should
useful mode of decoration. The balls are prepared by
cutting strips of Paste and rolling them into sticks of an
equal calibre, they are then cut into equal lengths, say
be set to dry after baking on a wire frame (see Fig. 166)
raised by legs from the table, shelf, or counter, so that the
air can reach the Pastry from underneath as well as from
j-in. thick and Jin. long, and rolled into spherical
shape with the aid of a small piece of board (see Fig. 168)
and a slight dusting of flour, by giving the board a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, e fee., referred to, see under their special heads.
120
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY .
Fig. 163. Cornucopia.
designs made for all sorts of savoury contents, such as
game, pork, veal and ham, or pigeon. The Paste eroustade
(see Pig. 171) is made in the same way as the raised
Fig. 167. Hot-closet.
Genoese Pastry. — (1) Warm 4oz. of fresh butter, beat it,
then mix in 4oz. of caster sugar and whip the two
together until creamy ; beat in, one at a time, four eggs,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
circular motion while pressing lightly upon the balls
beneath.
The manufacture of Paste puddings is described under
Paste and Pastry — continued.
pie, but its application is somewhat different and more
varied.
Fig. 160. Vol-au-Vent.
various headings in this Encyclopaedia, so also is the ordi-
nary pie ; but the savoury raised pie (see Pig. 169), with its
concomitant decorations and garnishes is regarded by
Fig. 161. Paste Bird’s Nest.
all pastrycooks as a work worthy of a master hand. For
the preparation of the crust and its ornamental appearance
the pastrycook is indebted to the metal mould-maker, who
Fig. 165. Plan of making Pastry Cannelon.
Genevese Pastry. — Make a Genoa Paste adding a little
chopped candied orange, or citron-peel and 1 teacupful of
brandy. Spread the Paste over a baking-sheet, level it off
with a knife, and bake. When done, with tin cutters cut
Fig. 162. Paste Walnut.
has provided an apparatus that enables the cook to look
with pride upon his work ; these are known as raised pie
moulds (see Pig. 170), of which there are numerous
Fig. 16a. Cornucopia-mould.
The following receipts may be considered a useful
addition to the examples already described:
French Pastry. — Several varieties of this will be found
under different headings. See Puff Paste (Feuilletage),
page f 14.
Fig. 166. Pastry-wire (Mathews and Son).
it into any shapes desired, then spread a sheet of paper
over another baking sheet, arrange the cakes on it, and
brown them on both sides in the oven.
/"■V
r
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
121
Paste and Pastry — continued.
then stir in quickly Jib. of finely-sifted flour, and work
it until quite smooth. Thickly hutter a flat tin, pour the
mixture on to it, spreading it out to about the thickness
of Ain., and bake at once for fifteen minutes in a brisk
oven. When cooked, turn the Pastry on to a sieve, and
leave until cool, the under-side uppermost. Spread a thin
layer of apricot jam over the Pastry, then a layer of
chocolate icing, and put it to dry for a minute in the
oven. When quite cold, cut the Pastry into various fancy
shapes, and serve.
(2) Mix together Jib. each of flour and caster sugar and
1 pinch of salt ; then stir in four well-beaten eggs and a
liqueur-glassful of brandy. Melt ilk of butter, and mix it
thoroughly with the Paste till quite smooth. Butter a cake-
tin, turn the Pastry into it, and bake. It can be cut in
slices when cold and served with jam between them, or it
can be baked in dariole-moulds, and served hot with a fruit
syrup sauce.
(3) Mix 4oz. of flour with 6oz. of caster sugar, then stir
in six beaten eggs, a little essence of lemons, and 4oz. of
melted butter. Line a copper pan with two thicknesses of
paper, pour in the preparation, and bake in a very hot
oven. When cooked, take it out, and serve cold, with
either fruit or preserves.
German Paste Croquettes. — Sift lib. of flour on the
table, make a hollow in the centre, then work in a piece
of butter about the size of a walnut, a pinch of salt, three
or four eggs, and sufficient water to make it of the right
consistency. When thoroughly well mixed, roll the Paste
out twice on a floured table, sprinkle it with flour, then
cut it into small equal portions, which roll into balls.
Fig. 169. Savoury Raised Pie.
Arrange these on a sheet of paper, and let them dry for
an hour, turning occasionally. Dip the balls in beaten eggs,
then in breadcrumbs, and fry them in butter. When
lightly and equally browned, drain, place them on a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Neapolitan Pastry. — Make a rich Puff' Paste, roll it out
to about Jin. in thickness, and cut it into strips nearly
2in. wide ; lay these on a baking-dish a little distance
from each other, so that when they spread they will not
join, and bake in a quick oven. When done, take them
out, mask half of them with strawberry or raspberry jam,
and place the other half on top of them. Ice them with
coloured icing, arrange tastefully on a fancy dish, and
serve.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
Paste Cases for a Chinese Temple. — Boil loz. of double-
refined sugar together with Joz. of butter and a little
water, put it away till quite cold, and then mix into it a
well-beaten egg. Work flour into this till it is a thick
Paste and very stiff, and roll it out extremely thin. Lay
it in a set of tins (the Paste should be cut the exact
size) in graduated sizes and bake in a slow oven. When
cooked, take them out and let them remain in the tins
till quite cold ; then remove them from the tins and join
together with isinglass and water in the shape of a temple.
The pieces of Paste for the lower part of the temple
should be thicker and stronger than the rest, as they have
to sustain the weight of the whole. The cases may after-
wards be filled with light confectionery or crystallized
flowers. If for confectionery, make the Paste and supports
stronger.
Fig. 170. Raised Pie Moulds.
Paste Crowns. — Sift Hlb. of flour, put it in a basin, make
a bay in the centre, into which put fib. of moist sugar,
the grated rinds of two lemons, fib. of fresh butter, and
ten eggs. Knead all well to a Paste, and if the Paste
should be too thin add more flour. Cut this Paste into
small pieces, and roll them to the length and thickness of
fingers. Form an edge to each of these pieces of Paste
by pressing them with a thin rolling-pin or round stick
about the size of an office-ruler from about half their own
thickness, then turn them into little crowns, the thin edge
uppermost. Moisten the ends and anneal them ; lay them
on white paper, and bake in not too hot an oven. Dip
them in white sugar icing and return them to the oven
for a minute.
Paste Plaits. — Prepare a sufficient quantity of Puff Paste,
put it on a floured table, and roll it out to about Jin. in
thickness ; cut it into three strips of an equal length and
width, stick the three of them together at one end with
beaten egg, and plait them. When plaited, stick them
together at the other ends with the egg. Brush lightly
over with a paste-brush dipped in the beaten egg, lay it
on a buttered baking-sheet, dust over with caster sugar,
and bake in a brisk oven. Cut a few thin strips of red-
Fig. 171. Paste Croustade.
currant jelly, and twist them round. When cooked, lay
the twists of jelly between the plaits of Paste, and serve.
Puff-Paste Cakes.— (1) Prepare lib. of Puff Paste of six turns,
put it in a cold place for a few minutes, then roll it out
to Jin. in thickness. Cut it with a sharp knife into
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, See., referred to, see under their special heads.
122
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Paste and Pastry — continued.
pieces of a rectangular shape, about 4in. long and 2in.
broad, which cut again into halves, across and from one
corner to the other ; mark with the point of a knife in
lines converging to the square coiner, so as to resemble
a fan. Butter a baking-tin, lay the pieces of Paste on
their sides on it, leaving a small space between them, and
bake in a very quick oven. Arrange them on a hot dish,
dust over with caster sugar, and serve.
(2) Melt 1 Jib. of fresh butter, turn it into a basin with
ljlb. of caster sugar, and beat it until well mixed ; then
stir in gradually sufficient flour to make a stiff Paste.
Turn the Paste on to a table or paste board over which
a small quantity of flour has been sifted, and work it
well for a few minutes. Divide the Paste into small
portions, shape into round cakes, lay them on a buttered
baking-tin, put them in a moderate oven, and bake till
of a light golden colour.
Puff Paste with Clotted Cream. — Mix four eggs, 1 tea-
spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to make a soft
Paste with 1 Jib. of flour, and work it Mrell with the
hands, dipping them occasionally in warmed butter ; dredge
flour over the table, roll the Paste out as thin as possible,
and cut it into rounds about 6in. in diameter. Butter a
baking-sheet, lay half of the rounds on it, and brush
over each round with a butter-brush dipped in warmed
butter. Divide about It lb. of clotted cream into small
pieces, brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in
beaten white of egg, lay a piece of cream on each piece,
and cover them with the remainder of the rounds. The
pieces of cream should be brushed all over until the white
of egg, as that will prevent it melting during cooking.
Bake in a moderate oven. Boil lib. of loaf sugar in lqt.
of water until reduced to a syrup. When cooked and
lightly coloured, take the Pastry out of the oven, pour
over the syrup, dust with caster sugar, and serve.
Royal Pastry. — Put J- pint of water in a large saucepan
with a little more than Jib. of fresh butter, 2oz. of sugar,
the peel of one lemon, and 1 pinch of salt. Boil it till the
butter is melted, then take the lemon-peel out ; throw in
sufficient finely-sifted flour to make a stiff Paste, stir it
over the Are with a wooden spoon till the Paste can be
easily detached from the saucepan, then take it oft'. Break
in, one at a time, five or six eggs, but do not put more
than the Paste can absorb, and mix each one in before
the next is added. Shape the Paste into equal sized balls,
and put them, about lin. apart from each other, on a
baking-sheet. Brush over with a paste-brush dipped in
beaten egg and milk, put them in a moderately hot oven,
and do not open the door till they are done, or they will
flatten. Dry them, detach them from the baking-sheet
with the point of a knife, make a small hole in the tops,
put 1 teaspoonful of jam or any kind of sweetmeat in
each, and serve.
Short-Paste Cakes. — Put 12oz. of fresh butter in a sauce-
pan, place it over the fire until melted, then mix in gra-
dually a little over lib. of the finest wheat-flour, and
stir over the fire until the flour is lightly browned.
Remove the flour from the fire, and beat it until smooth
and cool, then mix in 1,1b. of caster sugar and a small
grated nutmeg. Knead the mixture with the hands, then
divide it into small portions, which mould into fancy
cakes. Butter a baking-sheet, lay the cakes on it, put
them in a moderate oven, and bake till of a pale golden
colour. These cakes will keep for some months, provided
they are put into biscuit-tins and kept in a dry cup-
board.
Turkish Pastry. — Work Jib. of fresh butter into lib. of
ground rice, and when smooth add Jib. of caster sugar
and 1 saltspoonful of salt; mix the whole into a rather
stiff Paste with orange-flower water. Mould the Paste
into rather large balls, lay them on a baking-dish over
which has been spread a sheet of buttered paper, cover
with another sheet of buttered paper, and bake for half-
an-hour in a brisk oven. When cooked, pile the balls on
a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper, sift caster sugar over them, and
serve.
PASTILLES . — The name given to small lozenges or
loaves. Pastilles are made of a variety of aromatics ; they
derive their title from the Latin pastillus, the diminutive
of pastus— food. Receipts for their manufacture will be
found under Apricots, Chocolate, Currants, Dam-
sons, Ginger, Oranges, Raspberries, &c.
PASTRY. — See Paste and Pastry.
PASTRY CREAMS.— Another name for Eclairs.
PASTY— The name given to a sort of savoury pie,
especially used in connection with game and venison.
FATfi DE FOIES GRAS. — See Goose’s Fat
Liver.
PATNA RICE. —See Rice.
PATTEN- or PATEN-PASTE. — Literally Paste
that is used for spreading over a Paten or dish. See
Paste (Puff).
FATTIES (. Fr . Pates; Ger. Pasteten). — Although
this term has somewhat fallen out of use in this country,
being nothing more or less than a corruption of the word
pasties, it would he well if it were retained in culinary
nomenclature, in order to distinguish between large and
small pies. In this way we should speak of oyster or
mince Patties as the diminutive of savoury or sweet pies.
The following receipts, contributed by famous cooks, give
good variety :
(1) Take a few small Patty-pans (see Fig. 172) and spread
them with short paste. Make a savoury forcemeat of
raw calf’s liver, All the pans with it, put over these
covers of thin paste, and place them in a slack oven to
bake. When done take them out, let them get cold, cut
off the covering of paste, take out a little of the inside,
Fig. 172. Patty-pans.
and put in a little cooked goose’s fat liver. Replace that
which was removed, and put it over the goose’s liver, rais-
ing the preparation in a dome above the edges of the paste.
Set a small jelly crouton on the top. Arrange the Patties
in a pyramid on a dish, and garnish with more aspic
according to taste.
(2) Line some Patty-pans with a light paste at five
turns ; fill them with quenelle forcemeat, cover each with a
round of paste, and trim and press them round the edges.
Brush over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, and
bake for a-quarter-of-an-hour. When cooked, arrange the
Patties on a folded napkin or ornamental paper on a hot
dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Cornish. Patties. — ( 1 ) Peel Jib. of potatoes, put them into a
saucepan with 1 table-spoonful of salt, and cover with
cold water. Place the saucepan over the fire, and
when the water boils take out the potatoes and divide
them into small square pieces. Peel and cut up into
shreds one onion, and chop into small square pieces fib.
of beef-steak. Mix the pieces of steak, onions, and
potato well together with a fork, and sprinkle over them
1 saltspoonful of pepper and nearly 1 teaspoonful of salt.
Chop fine Jib. of beef-suet, stir it into lib. of flour and
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, and mix this to a light
dough, adding 1 breakfast-cupful of cold water. Cut the
dough into seven or eight pieces, and roll them out till
they are Jin. thick. Divide the steak, potatoes, and onions
into as many portions as there are pieces of the rolled-out
dough, lay a portion on each piece, gather up the edges
of the crust, brush the edges with a little cold water,
and pinch them firmly together. Brush over each Patty
with a little milk or beaten egg, and bake for three-
quarters-of-an-hour in a tolerably quick oven.
(2) Trim off the skin and discoloured parts from Jib. of
beef-suet, chop it fine, mix it with Jib. of flour, add
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
123
Patties — continued.
1 saltspoonful of salt, and mix it to a smooth paste with
cold water ; roll the paste out to a moderate thickness
and with a tin cutter about 2in. in diameter cut it into
rounds. Peel and slice some raw potatoes, cut them into
small pieces, mix with them an equal quantity of raw meat,
also cut into small pieces, and season to taste with salt,
pepper, and a small quantity each of sweet herbs
and finely-chopped onions. Spread the mixture over half
of each of the Patties, double the other half over, moisten
the edges slightly with water, and pinch them together.
Brush over the top of the Patties with a paste-brush
dippc ;1 in beaten egg, lay them on a baking- tin, and bake for
twenty minutes. Spread a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the Patties on it,
garnish with parsley, and serve ; or they may be served
cold.
Dresden Patties. — (1) Take Alb. of any kind of cold boiled
fish, trim off the skin and bone, and chop the fish fine.
Put loz. of butter into a fiat stewpan with 1 table-
spoonful of flour, stir over the fire until mixed, then pom-
in 1 teacupful of milk, and continue stirring. Put the
fish into the boiling milk, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and stew gently at the side of the fire for fifteen
minutes. Cut two large rounds of bread about 4in. in
diameter and 1 Ain. in thickness, and with a 3in. tin-cutter
cut half-way through each. Dip the rounds well in cream,
then drain, and dip them in well-beaten egg. Season a
small plate of finely-grated breadcrumb with salt and
pepper and roll the rounds in them, giving a good coating.
Put a large lump of clarified fat or lard into a frying-
pan, place it over the fire until blue smoke rises, then
put in the rounds and fry them until lightly browned.
Take them out of the fat until a slice, and put them on
a sheet of kitchen-paper to drain for a few minutes. Lift
off the inner round of bread with a sharp knife, and scoop
out from the centre of the large round all the soft bread.
Fill the hollows with the fish mixture, and put the small
rounds of bread on the top. Place the Patties on a hot
dish c rer which has been spread a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper, garnish with a few neat sprigs of
fried parsley, and serve while very hot.
(2) Cut some thick slices off a stale household loaf and
stamp them with a fluted tin cutter; dip each in cream,
hollow out the centres, then dip them in beaten yolk of
egg ; sprinkle raspings over them, put them in a frying-
pan with a little fresh butter, and fry a golden brown.
When done, drain oil' all the fat, fill them with a hot
savoury mince of meat or poultry, put them on a folded
napkin on a dish, and serve.
Fontange Patties. — Stir up with 4oz. of flour the yolks of
three or four eggs, 1 pinch of salt, and 1 teacupful of
olive oil ; mix with this I A teacupfuls of beer and warm
water mixed in equal quantities ; put a cloth over the basin,
and keep it in a warm place for two hours, then pour the
batter into a stewpan. Warm in boiling fat an iron mould,
made for this purpose, of the shape of a little timbale ;
when hot, dip it nearly, but not quite, to the rim in the
batter, take it out again immediately, plunge it into
the boiling fat, and leave till the batter is cooked ; then
remove it from the mould and proceed as before till all
the batter is used. Prepare a salpipon with poultry -meat,
pickled tongues, brains, and mushrooms, thicken it with
a little sauce, fill the batter shells with it, arrange them on a
folded napkin on a dish, and serve.
Fried Patties. — Finely chop three or four slices of cold roasted
veal and six oysters; mix with them 1 teacupful of bread-
crumbs, a little finely-chopped lemon-peel, and the strained
liquor of the oysters, and season to taste with pepper, salt,
and grated nutmeg. Put the above mixture in a small
stewpan, stir it over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil,
then take it off and leave to cool. Roll some puff paste
out thin, cut it into rounds with a tin cutter 4in. in di-
ameter, put a small quantity of the mince in the centre of
each of one half of them, fold the round of paste over, damp
the edges, pinch them together with the fingers with a
twisting motion, and fry till nicely browned ; then brush over
with beaten egg and put them in the oven for a few minutes.
Patties — continued.
Arrange the Patties on a folded napkin or ornamental
paper on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Lent Fatties. — Make fifteen small puff-paste Patties as for
Patties a la Yol-au-Vent, and bake them. When done,
take them off the baking-sheet, empty the pans, and keep
the Patties warm. Beat fifteen eggs, and season them
with salt and a little grated nutmeg. Peel and cut into
small dice three raw truffles, put them in a saucepan with
a small lump of butter, and warm them. Pour the beaten
eggs in with the truffles, add a little more butter, broken
in little pieces, and stir them over a slow fire till thick.
Mix 1 teacupful of bechamel sauce with the above ingre-
dients, take them oft’ the fire, fill the Patties with the
mixture, arrange them on a folded napkin or ornamental
dish-paper on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Patties a la Dauphine. — Roll out 1 Alb. of brioche paste
four times, then with a round tin cutter, 2in. in diameter
cut out of this forty round flats ; put in the centre of each
one of half of the rounds a small ball of croquette prepara-
tion, then put the other rounds on top, and moisten and pinch
the edges together ; cut them again with the same tin
cutter to make them round. Spread a floured cloth on a
baking-sheet, arrange the Patties on it a short distance
from each other, cover with a floured cloth, and keep them
in a warm temperature for thirty-five minutes ; then put
them, a few at the time, in boiling fat, and fry till nicely
browned. When cooked, drain the Patties in a cloth,
pile them on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve.
Patties a la Financiere. — Butter twelve fluted Patty-pans
rather high in shape, line them with short-paste, then with
paper, fill them with flour, and bake in a moderate oven.
When done, remove the paper and flour, coat them inside
with a thin lave of forcemeat, and set them at the entrance
of the oven to keep warm. Roll out some puff paste, and
cut twelve rounds out of it the same size as the inside of
the Patty ; brush over with beaten egg, mark lines
across the top with a sharp-pointed knife, and bake till
lightly browned. Prepare a mixture of little collops of fat
livers and truffles, some cocks’ combs, and small quenelles ;
put it in a saucepan with a little reduced brown sauce
and warm thoroughly, but do not let it boil. Fill the
Patties with the mixture, previously turning them out of
the pan ; put on the covers of puff paste, arrange them on
a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve hot or
cold. See Fig. 173.
Patties a la Toulouse. — Boil some calf’s brains, and when
cold cut them into small cubes. Mix with them an equal
quantity of cold cooked chicken-flesh, also cut into small
cubes, and add a few sliced mushrooms. Prepare a white
sauce, mix it with the meat, and keep it hot to fill the
Patties as wanted.
Patties a la Vol-au-Vent. — Roll out a piece of puff'
paste to about |in. in thickness, cut out some rounds
with a tin biscuit-cutter about 2Ain. in. diameter, then
take a smaller cutter about Hin. in diameter, and cut
nearly but not quite through in the centre of each one ; put
them on a baking-dish, and bake in a quick oven. The
paste rises, and the inside becomes a lid that may be
lifted out with the point of a knife. Trim off the surplus
paste from the inside, fill them with whatever has been
prepared for them, put the lids on, and decorate them
with a sprig of parsley.
Russian Patties. — Divide 6oz. of sweetbread into small pieces,
and put them in a stewpan with 2qts. of water and a
small lump of salt. Boil till tender, then drain on a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred, to, see under their special heads.
124
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fatties — continued.
sieve ; chop them quickly, and keep hot. Fry a chopped
onion in butter, then mix with it some parsley-roots,
celery-roots, and mushrooms, all cut in dice. Fry all
together for a few minutes, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a
little flour over them, moisten with a little broth, and stir
the liquid while boiling. Add the chopped sweetbread,
continue stirring over the lire for two minutes, then take
it off, and mix in five hard-boiled eggs and a little chopped
parsley. Roll lib. of short-paste out thin, cut it into
small rounds with a tin cutter 2in. in diameter, put on
the centre of each round a little of the preparation in the
shape of an oval quenelle, then draw up the paste on
both sides, and pinch the edges together with the fingers.
Arrange the Patties on a baking-sheet, dip a paste-brash
in beaten egg, brush them over with it, and bake in a
hot oven for twenty minutes. Put the Patties on a
folded napkin on a dish, and serve either hot or cold.
Swiss Patties. — Cut some thick slices of stale bread into
round pieces with a biscuit-cutter ; with a cutter a size or
two smaller cut a small piece from the middle of each
round piece (not right through) and scoop it out so that
each round is hollowed without having a hole made right
through it. When all the pieces are cut and hollowed,
dip them in well-beaten egg, dredge well with cracker-crumbs
rolled to a very fine powder, fry them a pale brown in
boiling lard or dripping, and drain on kitchen-paper.
When all are fried, arrange them on a hot dish, and fill
each one with nicely-thickened hot minced veal or chicken.
FATJPIETTES. — The literal meaning of this term
would probably be little peeps, it being derived from the
French paupiere — an eye-lid. This may be in allusion
to the forcemeat peeping from between the rolls of the
material which encloses it. Nowadays, in a well-made
Paupiette, the cook is careful that the forcemeat shall
Fig. 174. Paupiette of Beef.
not be exposed (see Fig. 174). The following receipts
are very good examples of what Paupiettes should be,
other receipts being found under special headings, such
as Beef, &c.
Paupiettes a la Milanaise. — Cut about twelve thin slices,
about ‘2in. wide and 6in. long, from a loin of cold roasted veal,
trim them, removing all the sinew, and beat them flat.
Mince very finely 6oz. each of ham and lean veal and 4oz.
of beef kidney-suet. Season to taste with chopped sweet
herbs, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a very small
quantity of garlic. Bind the mixture with beaten egg,
dust each slice of veal with salt and pepper, and
put a small quantity of the chopped mixture on each. Roll
them up and tie them with pieces of string. Cut the
same number of thin slices of ham, and thread them alter-
nately with the Paupiettes on skewers. Butter the interior
of a flat stewpan, lay the skewers in it side by side,
dredge them lightly with flour, and baste with a few
table-spoonfuls of clarified butter. Put them in a brisk oven,
and bake until nicely browned. Place the Paupiettes on
a hot dish, leaving them on the skewers, pour the re-
mains of the basting-butter over them, garnish with cut
lemons and parsley, and serve while very hot.
Wurtemberg Paupiettes. — Mix 6 table-spoonfuls of flour
with six beaten eggs and f A breakfast-cupfuls of milk.
Paupiettes — continued.
Season with a little salt and pounded mace, then strain
the mixture through a fine hair sieve. Fry the above
like omelets in clarified liutter, keeping them as thin
and broad as possible. When cooked, turn them out on
to a plate, leave them to cool, then cut them into squares.
Fry six chickens’ livers in clarified butter, chop and pound
them, and mix with them Jib. of cooked ham and the
meat of a cooked minion fillet of veal, also chopped and
pounded. Season the mixture and bind it with the yolks of
two and the white of one egg. Pass it through a fine hair
sieve, and spread a layer of it on each of the squares.
Cut them into strips 4in. long and lin. wide, roll them
and tie them round, lay them side by side in a baking-
dish, baste with warmed butter, cover with grated stale
breadcrumbs, and bake them from fifteen to twenty
minutes. When the Paupiettes are cooked, put them on
a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
FAYSANNE, A LA. — Literally the style adopted by
peasants. From the receipts given, as Potage a la Pay-
sanne and Petits Pois a la Paysanne, the French Peasant,
after whom they are named, might be said to vie with the
highest peers in the land, so far as artistic culinary taste
is concerned.
FEAS ( Fr . Petits Pois; Ger. Erbsen; Ital. Piselli ;
Sp. Guisantes). — The history of the Garden Pea (Pisum
sativum ) and the date of its introduction into England
A, Field Pea ; B, Scimitar Pea ; C, Marrow-fat Pea.
seems to be rather obscure. The plant is said to be a native
of the South of Europe, and to have been introduced into
this country through France and Holland in the reign
' of Henry VIII. Since the date of their introduction
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
125
Peas — continued.
Peas have been familiar in every household, either as
fresh Green Peas, or dried Split Peas as they are called.
Some varieties of these are found in the dried, bottled,
or tinned Green Peas, and the ground Split Pea, which is
commonly known as Pea-flour or Pea-meal.
All authorities acknowledge Peas in any form to be
very nutritious as food. According to Poggiale the
analysis of Peas gives in 100 parts :
Starch ... ... ... ... ... 57-0
Legumin ... ... ... ... ... 21 -7
Fatty matter 1-9
Cellulose ... ... ... ... ... 3 2
Ash 2-8
Water ... ... ... ... ... ]2-7
This shows a remarkable proportion of nutrient matter,
which goes far to establish Peas in the important culinary
position they occupy.
Green Peas, as supplied to the vegetable market, are of
various kinds, the more familiar being the Field Pea, with
a short, pointed pod (see Fig. 175a), the Scimitar Pea,
so-called from the pod resembling the scimitar in shape
(see Fig. 175b), and the Marrow-fat Pea, large and full
(see Fig. 175c). Of the varieties of Peas cultivated for
the table Nicholson gives us in his “Dictionary of
Gardening ” the following selected list :
Earliest Sorts. —Alpha (Laxton’s), wrinkled blue marrow,
six to nine in apod; American Wonder, wrinkled marrow;
Beck’s Gem, round, white, smooth, about six; Blue Prussian,
round, light blue, smooth ; Daniel O’Rourke, round, white,
smooth, rather large; Dr. Hogg, wrinkled green marrow,
seven to nine; Earliest of All (Laxton’s), round, blue ; Early
Dwarf Frame, round, white, smooth; Early Frame, small,
very round, white, about six ; Early Sunrise (Day’s), white
wrinkled marrow, large ; Maclean’s Blue Peter, round, blue,
very large, six to eight ; Maclean’s Little Gem, green
wri deled marrow ; Ringleader, round, white, smooth, six
or seven; William I., smooth, green marrow, of good
size, seven to nine.
Second Early and Main Crop.— Advancer, wrinkled blue
marrow, very large, about eight in a pod; Champion of
England, wrinkled blue marrow, six to nine, one of the
best; Dickson’s Favourite, round, smooth-skinned; Dr.
Maclean, blue wrinkled marrow, very large, about nine ;
Duke of Albany, wrinkled green marrow, large, about ten ;
Fillbasket (Laxtons), round, light green, of good size,
seven to nine; G. F. Wilson (Carter’s), wrinkled blue
marrow, very large, somewhat flattened, six to eight ;
Gladiator, wrinkled marrow, deep green, of excellent quality ;
Maclean’s Wonderful, wrinkled marrow, of excellent flavour;
Marvel (Laxton s) wrinkled white marrow, very green,
seven to nine; Prodigy, green wrinkled marrow, of
excellent quality and flavour, about ten ; Stratagem (Carter’s),
wrinkled manow, very large, nine to eleven; Supreme
(Laxton’s), smooth, green marrow, large, of fine flavour;
Telegraph (Culverwell’s), wrinkled marrow, large, deep green,
of excellent flavour, nine to eleven ; Telephone (Carter’s),
wrinkled marrow, large, of first-rate quality, eight to
ele\ en ; Veitch’s Perfection, wrinkled blue marrow, com-
pressed, large, one of the best.
Late Sorts.— British Queen, wrinkled white marrow, large,
tender, about eight in a pod; Culverwell’s Giant Marrow,
blue, wrinkled, large, of the finest quality ; King of the
Marrows, wrinkled, green, large, oblong, six to eight;
Maclean’s Best of All, wrinkled green marrow, large, five
to eight ; Ne Plus Ultra, wrinkled green marrow, very
large, of first rate quality, seven to nine ; Omega (Laxton’s),
wri ikied green marrow, very large, dark green, of excellent
quality, eight to ten ; Prizetaker, green marrow, smooth,
misshapen from being, compressed in the pod, six to ten;
Sturdy (Laxton’s), wrinkled green marrow, large, dark
green, of excellent quality, six to nine.
Fresh Green Peas are in season for only a very limited
period of the summer months ; but as they lend them-
selves to the formation of so many good dishes, a system
of preserving them soft and green in bottles originated
Peas — co ntinued.
in France and has been since extensively followed up in
America. One grave objection to this mode of preserving
was the use of copperas to retain the green colour ; this
has however now ceased as a practice, the bottled Peas
being perfectly pure and maintaining sufficient of their
green colour without the aid of chemicals. The following
may be considered reliable instructions for bottling :
Shell the Peas, and pick out the largest and best, as
these only should be used ; put them into wide-mouthed
bottles and cork tightly, rendering them perfectly air-tight.
Put the bottles in a saucepan with sufficient cold water
to reach to their necks, placing a little hay between each
to prevent them knocking together and breaking. Put the
lid on the saucepan, place it over the fire, and when the
water boils move the saucepan to the side and keep the
water at the same heat for nearly two hours ; the lid
should be on the saucepan all the time. Leave the bottles
in the water until cold, when they should be dried and
the nozzles dipped in bottle-wax. Keep them in a cool
dry place.
Tinned Peas, or “canned” as the Americans call
them, are not so reliable or tasty as bottled Peas, for
some reason or other unexplained. The following is
the process by which they are prepared :
Shell the desired quantity of young freshly-gathered
Peas, put them into a saucepan with plenty of water anil
a little salt, and boil for about ten minutes. Strain off
the water and put the Peas by means of a large funnel into
tins already prepared for them, filling them to within a
jin. of the top ; stand the tins in a pan of water and boil
slowly for an-hour-and-a-lialf. Before the boiling ceases,
take the tins out one at a time, dry them, and solder the
lids down before they cool so as to exclude the air.
Fresh Green Peas. — These should be gathered early
in the morning, before the sun has sufficient power to
dry any of the moisture they may have absorbed
during the night. As soon as they are shelled they
should be rinsed in cold water and the defective ones
picked out. Some cooks contend that washing spoils
them, but that is merely a matter of prejudice, and has no
foundation in fact. It is also advisable that all the Peas
Fig. 176. Pea-shelling Machine (A. Lyon).
forming one boiling should be as near one size as pos-
sible. A very ingenious machine (see Fig. 176) has been
invented, by which Peas can be shelled with extraordinary
rapidity, a very great convenience when large quantities
are used.
Boiled Green Peas.— Shell 1 peck of Fresh Green Peas;
wash them in water. Put the Peas into 2qts. of boil-
ing water with 1 table-spoonful of salt, and boil fast until
they are tender (they should take about ten minutes),
then drain, season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve
at once. If the Peas are to be served with lamb, a small
bunch of green mint should be boiled with them. Parsley,
and young onions are also boiled with green Peas when
their flavours are desired ; sometimes 1 teaspoonful of sugar
is added to sweeten them.
Buttered Green Peas. — Put some Fresh Green Peas into a
saucepan with a lump of butter, a little salt, and a small
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
126
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peas — continued.
quantity of water; place tlie lid on, and boil over a quick
lire until tender. Knead loz. of butter with some Hour,
put it in with the Peas, stir them till thickened, then put
m Jib. of butter, broken in little pieces, J teaspoonful of
sugar, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Turn the
Peas out on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of fried
bread, and serve.
Pried Green Peas.— Cut a few thin slices of bacon into
small pieces, put them in a stewpan, and fry ; moisten with
water or stock, put in the required quantity of Peas with
a few white onions, the heart of a lettuce, and a hunch
of sweet herbs, and simmer slowly until tender. Skim off
the fat, turn the Peas and bacon on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Green Peas a l’Ancienne. — Take 3qts. of young tender
green Peas, shell them carefully, and keep them wrapped
up in a wet napkin until needed. Clean, drain, and tie
up a lettuce head, put it in a saucepan with the Peas,
season with a pinch of salt, cover with 1 wineglassful of
water, and add Jib. of butter. After cooking for a- quarter- |
of-an-hour remove the lettuce, and when ready to serve
thicken the Peas with 3 table-spoonfuls of cream, diluted
with one yolk of egg, adding J pinch of white pepper and
1 table -spoonful of powdered loaf sugar. Let all thicken
together for five minutes, and serve immediately in a
tureen.
Green Peas a l’Anglaise. — Shell and wash 1 peck of
green Peas, remove the small ones, put them in a sauce-
pan, cover with boiling water, add a handful of salt, and
boil quickly, without covering, for fifteen minutes, skim-
ming the scum off as it rises. When done, strain
through a colander, return them to the saucepan, and
toss well, adding ljoz. of fresh butter. Dish them in a
vegetable-dish, place another Joz. of butter in the middle,
and serve.
Green Peas a la Bourgeoise. — Select the required quantity
of young Peas, put them into a stewpan with butter,
allowing Jib. to every lqt. of Peas; add also the washed
heart of a large lettuce, a bunch of parsley, a few small
onions, and a small lump of salt. Moisten with a little
broth, and stew slowly until tender. Stir in the beaten j
yolks of two eggs and 1 teaspoonful of caster sugar, but
do not boil after the eggs are added. Turn the Peas on
to a hot dish, and serve.
Green Peas a la Paysanne. — Wash a few cabbages and
long lettuces, a handful of parsley, and tlnee or four green
onions ; cut them into shreds and put them in a saucepan
with 3qts. of green Peas and a piece of butter ; place the
lid on the saucepan, and let them steam over a very slow
fire without any other moisture, stirring occasionally to
prevent them burning. When sufficiently cooked, season
with pepper and salt, turn them on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Green Peas and Cheese. — Put 2oz. of grated cheese in a
lined stewpan with ljoz. of butter, 1J teacupfuls of milk, j
and J teacupful of cream, and stir the whole with a j
wooden spoon over a gentle fire. When the cheese has
dissolved add about 3 heaped breakfast- cupfuls of freshly-
shelled green Peas that have been boiled in water until
tender, season to taste with salt and pepper and a small
quantity of cayenne, and stir at the edge of the fire for
a few minutes. Turn the Peas on to a hot dish, garnish
with sippets of bread fried in butter, and serve. If pre-
ferred, the beaten yolks of two eggs may be used in
place of the cream, only they must not be stirred in until
the last, or they will curdle.
Green Peas and Crabs. — Shell 1 peck of young Peas and i
put them in a small quantity of broth together with a
lump of butter and a piece of mint. Pick the meat out
of three or four young crabs, put it in with the Peas,
add about 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and season I
to taste with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Mix the
whole well over the fire, turn them on to a hot dish,
garnish with a few small claws of the crabs, and serve.
Green Peas for Garnish. — Boil the required quantity of
Peas in salted water, taking care not to cook them too 1
Peas — continued.
much, drain, put them in a saute-pan with a little butter,
and toss them over the fire for a few minutes.
Green-Pea Griddle Cakes. — Boil some green Peas, and
before they are quite done drain off the water, mash them,
and pass the pulp through a strainer. Mix with every
breakfast-cupful of pulp J pint of boiling milk and 1
table-spoonful each of butter and sugar. W hen cool, add
1 breakfast-cupful of flour in which has been mixed 2
teaspoonfuls of baking powder anti J teaspoonful of salt ;
stir in one beaten egg, and if it is then thicker than stiff
batter dilute with more milk. Butter a griddle-iron,
and when hot pour J teacupful of the batter on it and
cook the cake, beating up the mixture before each lot
is taken out. Serve hot with butter.
Green-Pea Pie. — Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls of green Peas
(shelled) into a saucepan with J table-spoonful of sugar,
J saltspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and sufficient water
to cover; place the pan without a lid on the fire, and
boil the Peas until quite tender; when done, drain them.
Line a pie- or tart dish with a thin layer of puff paste,
pour over 2 break fast -cupfuls of custard flavoured with
noyau, place the dish in the oven for the custard to set,
then put the Peas on top; pour over 1 breakfast-cupful of
rich cream, cover with more paste, hake in a moderate
oven, glaze, and serve.
Green-Pea Salad. — (1) Shell sufficient Peas to fill two break-
fast-cups, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter
the size of an egg and a very small quantity of water,
and let them simmer till tender, keeping them constantly
stirred. When cooked, take them off the fire and leave
till cold. Thoroughly wash and drain a nice lettuce, pull
the leaves apart, and put them into a salad-howl. Chop
some cold remains of roast lamb or other cold meat, 2'ut
it about on the top of the lettuce, then pour the Peas
over. Prepare a plain salad-dressing with oil, vinegar, a
few chopped tarragon- and mint-leaves, and season with
pepper and salt. Pour the dressing over the salad, toss
it lightly, then serve.
(2) Put some green Peas in a saucepan with a lump of
butter and a very small quantity of water. Boil them
slowly till tender, keeping them well stirred, then take them
off tlie fire and leave till cool. Cut up into small pieces
Jib. of cold roast lamb ; put some washed and well-drained
lettuce-leaves into a salad-bowl, then add the lanib and
Peas. Mix in equal quantities some oil anil vinegar,
season with salt and pepper, and pour it over the salad.
Sprinkle with chopped tarragon- and mint-leaves, toss the
salad lightly about, and serve.
Green-Pea Soup. — (1) Put J peck of freshly-shelled green
Peas into a stewpan with a lump of salt, a small onion,
a few sprigs of mint and parsley tied together, and water
to cover. Boil the Peas until tender, then strain, remove
the onion, mint, and parsley, and mb the Peas through
a fine hair sieve into a basin. Have ready boiling as
much clear stock as will make the required quantity of
soup, seeing that it is perfectly free from fat, put in the
Peas, with about loz. of butter and 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls of
spinach-green to give it a brighter colour, and boil up
again, then turn it into a soup-tureen, and serve with
sippets of toast.
(2) Put 1J pints of green Peas in a saucepan of water
with a small lump of salt and a few sprigs of mint, and
boil until tender. When cooked, pound the Peas, and
rub them through a fine hair sieve. Peel an onion and a
carrot, and cut them into thin slices ; put a small lump
of butter in a. saucepan, and, when melted, put in the
sliced vegetables and fry them until browned. Next pour
in lqt. of clear stock, season to taste with salt, pepper,
and a small quantity of loaf sugar, and boil for fifteen
minutes. Stir the puree of Peas into the soup, and boil
up again. Strain the soup through a fine hair sieve into
a soup-tureen, and serve while very hot with a plate of
sippets of toast, or small croutons of biead that have
been fried golden brown in butter.
(3) Pare half-a-dozen cucumbers ; and cut them in slices ;
also chop in pieces the hearts and best leaves of a dozen
cos lettuces. Put the sliced cucumbers and lettuces into
referred to, see under their special heads.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec.,
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF
Peas — co n tinned.
a stewpan, together with 1 pint of young Peas, two spring
onions nicely washed (the root trimmed, but the leaves left
on), a small bunch of parsley, a seasoning of salt and
black pepper, and lib. of butter. Cover the pan closely,
and let the vegetables stew for two bom's, shaking the
pan frequently, but not uncovering it. Poil 1 pint of
young Peas very soft, rub them through a sieve, and add
the pulp to the vegetables in the stewpan when removed
from the fire. On the following day, warm up the vege-
tables in the stewpan, and add to them another pint of
young Peas, boiled and passed through a sieve, adding at
the same time as much of the water the Peas were boiled
in as will reduce the soup to the required thickness. If
a smooth soup is preferred all the vegetables may be
rubbed through a sieve.
(4) Boil 1 pint of old Peas and a French roll in 4qts. :
of water until the Peas go to a mash, then rub them
through a coarse sieve, put them again over the fire, and j
add a seasoning of whole pepper and mace, also 1 pint of
young Peas, and let them boil. Cut in pieces, but not
very small, two or three cabbage lettuces, a few green
onions, and a handful of spinach-leaves ; put them over
the fire with about 4oz. of butter, and let them cook till
very tender. When the Peas are sufficiently boiled, add a
few marigold-leaves, and let them boil ; then put in the
vegetables stewed in butter, mix together, and serve hot
with little squares of bread fried very dry.
(5) Shell 1 peck of Peas, and put the old ones into one
vessel and the young ones into another. Have a large
saucepan half-full of water on the fire. When the water
boils, put in the old Peas (reserving the young to boil
separately), together with 1 table spoonful of salt, and let
them boil for from twenty minutes to half-an-hour, according
to their size and age; then drain them in a colander, and
put them into the soup-kettle with 3qts. of unseasoned
veal or mutton broth. Place the lid on tight, set the
pan over a slow tire, and let the contents stew gently
for an hour ; then add 1 teacupful of breadcrumbs, and
rub all through a sieve into a stewpan. Boil the young
Peas in hot water, drain, and add them to the soup. Should
the soup be too thick, mix with it a little more stock before
putting in the freshly-boiled Peas. Then season to taste
with salt and sugar, pour it into a tureen, and serve. A
few thin slices of cucumber, floured and fried brown, may
be added the last thing. If the soup should not be green
enough, pound some spinach, and squeeze the juice into
it through a cloth. A few leaves of mint may also be
added.
(6) Boil slowly 31b. of lean beef in 3qts. of water, and
skim it well. Boil separately ‘2qts. of green Peas with
two or three lumps of sugar, and a little salt. When
quite soft, strain the Peas, and pass them through a
hair sieve. Strain the soup, mix the pulp with it, and
warm all up again together. Turn the soup into a tureen,
and serve with squares of toast or croutons of fried
bread.
(7) Warm Jib. of butter in a saucepan, then put in 3
pints of young green Peas, two onions peeled and sliced,
two cucumbers also peeled and sliced, and two chopped
cabbage lettuces. Fry them sharply, tossing well, then pour
in gradually 3qts. of veal broth; add two or three slices of
lean ham, 1 breakfast-cupful of cooked and mashed potatoes,
and 1 dessert-spoonful of flour, previously worked smooth
vdth a little of the broth. Let all simmer for two hours,
stinnng occasionally to prevent them burning at the bottom
and skimming off all fat as it rises. Boil 4 pint of green
Peas separately in a little broth. Turn the soup into a
tureen, put in the boiled Peas and their cooking-liquor,
and serve with a plate of croutons of fried bread.
(8) Without Meat. — Trim and cut up two or three
small lettuces, two or three onions, and two moderate sized
cucumbers ; put them in a stewpan with 4oz. of fresh butter,
dust over with moderate quantities of salt and pepper,
put the lid on the pan, and stew at the side of a moderate
fire. Boil lqt. of Peas in lqt. of water with a small piece
of mint. When the Peas are tender, rub them through a
fine hair sieve, mix them with their cooking-liquor, and
add them to the other ingredients. Add more seasoning
PRACTICAL COOKERY. 127
Peas — continued.
to the soup if required, turn it into a soup-tureen, and
serve while very hot.
(9) Imitation. — Put 1 table-spoonful of flour in a basin
with 1 saltspoonful of salt, and stir in gradually
4 pint of milk and one beaten egg. Put a lump of lard in
a frying-pan, place it over the fire until blue smoke rises,
then pour the batter into the fat through a colander with
large holes. The batter will then be like Peas, and should
be fried a pale brown. Drain the Peas, put them into a
soup-tureen, pour over them 3 or 4 pints of boiling clear
soup, and serve.
Kedgeree of Green Peas (Indian). — Put 4oz. of fat into
a frying-pan, let it boil, put in twelve large onions, cut
in slices, and let them brown slightly. Push them on
one side of the pan, add about f breakfast-cupful of rice
and 1 teacupful of ground wheat, and fry until they have
absorbed all the fat ; then mix in a few slices of green
ginger, some peppercorns, three or four cardamoms, a few
cloves, six bay -leaves, six small sticks of cinnamon, and
1 dessert-spoonful of rice. Pour over sufficient water to
cover, place a lid on the pan, set it over a slow fire, and
cook until all the water is absorbed or evaporated, allowing
the lire to gradually lessen in heat. A few minutes before
the rice is cooked, add 1 breakfast-cupful of green Peas,
turn the whole out on to a dish, and serve.
Omelet of Green Peas. — Break twelve eggs into a bowl,
adding 4 pint of boiled green Peas, 1 pinch each of salt and
pepper, and beat well for four minutes ; then make it into
an omelet in a saute-pan, as described under Omelets.
Pea Shells iBrowning) for Soups. -When shelling Peas,
pick out the cleanest and plumpest of the shells and put
a layer of them on an iron baking-sheet ; place them in
a slow oven and brown them, taking great care they do not
burn or char. Keep them in a dry place when done. A
few of these thrown into broths or soups will improve the
flavour and colour them nicely.
Puree of Green Peas. — (l) Put some green Peas in a
saucepan with a very small quantity of water and boil them
till tender, then pass the whole through a fine hair sieve.
Put the puree in a saucepan with a little broth, and stir
it over the lire till boiling. Move the saucepan to the side
of the fire, put in 4 teaspoonful of sugar, salt to taste, and
a moderate-sized lump of butter. Cut some slices of bread,
shape them into small croutons, and fry them in butter.
When lightly browned, drain the croutons, put them in
a deep dish, and pour the puree over them. Serve it with
a separate dish of boiled rice.
(2) Shell and wash the Peas, put them in a saucepan
with one onion, a little salt and sugar, and sufficient water
to cover them. Boil till the Peas are soft, then drain
and press them through a fine hair sieve ; put the puree
in a stewpan, and mix with it a small quantity of bechamel
sauce. Stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then turn
it on to a hot dish, and serve.
Puree of Green Peas for Garnish. — Put the Peas in a
saucepan with a few sprigs of mint and parsley, a small
onion, and a lump of salt ; cover with water, and boil them
until tender. Drain the Peas, mb them through a fine hair
sieve, moisten with clear stock, bringing them to the con-
sistency of a thick puree. Put loz. of butter and 1 tea-
spoonful of flour in a stewpan, mix them well over the fire,
then stir in the puree of Peas. Stir them over the fire
for two or three minutes, and when thoroughly hot again
they are ready for serving.
Puree of Green-Pea Shells for Soup. — Pick out all the
discoloured shells and wash the remainder ; put them
into a saucepan with water to cover, and boil them until
tender. Drain the shells and mb them first through a
coarse colander and then through a finer one. The puree
can be then flavoured and used either with or without
Peas as stock for vegetable soup.
Stewed Green Peas. — (1) Blanch 2oz. of streaky bacon,
cut it into small squares, and put it in a stewpan with
loz. of butter; fry for two or three minutes, then dredge
in a small quantity of flour, pour in 4 pint of water, and
stir until boiling. Put in the Peas with a small onion,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
128
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Feas — continued.
and boil them very gently. In about three-quarters-of-an-
hour’s time remove the onion, turn the Peas on to a liot
dish, and serve.
(2) Put the Peas in a stewpan with two small lettuces
washed and cut up, 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, a
few sprigs of mint, and about h teacupful of oil ; add 1
dessert-spoonful of moist sugar and a sufficient quantity
of water to cover the Peas. Stew them gently until
tender, taking care that they do not become too dry.
When cooked they should have a yellowish brown appear-
ance; turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(3) Cut up small three cabbage lettuces, first washing
them well, put them into a stewpan with a rasher of ham
or bacon, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, 2oz.
of butter, lqt. of green Peas, and a small quantity of
chopped mint (1 teaspoonful of powdered white sugar may
be added to the Peas if liked). Put the stewpan at the
side of the fire, and let all stew very slowly till the Peas
are half done, then add 1 pint of good gravy. When the
Peas are nearly cooked thicken with butter and Hour, stir
till quite thick, and then add the yolks of two eggs beaten up
with 1 gill of cream. Stir till thoroughly hot, and then serve.
(4) Peel and chop two or three onions, wash a lettuce,
and cut it into thin shreds ; melt Jib. of butter in a stew-
pan, then put in the above vegetables with lqt. of freshly -
shelled green Peas ; add a small quantity of finely-chopped
mint, season to taste with salt and pepper, and stew
gently until tender. When the Peas are cooked, move
the stewpan to the side of the fire and stir in the yolk of an
egg that has been beaten up with 2 table-spoonfuls of milk.
Turn them on to a hot dish, and serve while very hot.
(5) Put lqt. of green Peas and Joz. of butter into a
saucepan, pour over as much warm water as will cover
them, and let them stand (but not over the fire) for ten
minutes ; then strain off the water, cover the saucepan,
and stir frequently. When they begin to get tender, add
a bunch of parsley, 1 dessert-spoonful of powdered white
sugar, loz. of butter with 1 teaspoonful of flour rubbed
into it, and a young onion. Keep stirring occasionally till
the Peas are tender. If they get too thick add 1 table-
spoonful of hot water. When tiie Peas are done take out
the parsley and onion, and serve hot.
Stewed Green Peas with Bacon. — Remove the rind from
Jib. of streaky bacon ; cut the bacon into small pieces,
blanch them for a few minutes, then drain ; put them in a
saucepan with loz. of butter, and fry for five minutes;
put 1 table-spoonful of flour in with the bacon, stir it
over the fire for a few minutes, then add lqt. of young
green Peas, one onion, and 1 pint of water. When the
liquid is boiling, put the lid on the saucepan, move it to
the side of the fire, and let the contents stew gently for
half-an-hour ; take the onion out, skim the fat off the
liquor, add salt and pepper to taste, turn all into a hot
dish, and serve.
Stewed Green Peas and Buttered Bggs. — Put 2 break-
fast-cupfuls of freshly-shelled green Peas into a stewpan
with loz. of butter, 1 table-spoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste, and stew over a
gentle fire until quite tender. Beat three eggs thoroughly,
and when the Peas are cooked stir them in quickly ; turn
the whole on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast
or croutons of bread fried in butter, and serve.
Stewed Green Peas with Cream. — Put in a saucepan
loz. of butter well kneaded with 1 table-spoonful of flour,
dissolve it, then add 3qts. of shelled young Peas, a
bouquet garni, a quarter of a bunch of chives, 1 pinch of
salt, and l pinch of pepper ; cook in their own liquor for
twenty minutes, then take the saucepan of!' the fire. Pour
the gravy from the Peas into another vessel, add to it 4
breakfast -cupful of cream and 1 teaspoonful of powdered
loaf sugar ; pour this sauce over the Peas, and beat up
once again (without boiling) for two minutes before serving.
Stewed Green Peas and Ham. — Cut some ham into small
squares and fry them with some slices of onion in a
saucepan; then put in the Peas and sufficient broth to
cook them in. When done (the time will depend on the
age of the Peas), thicken the liquor with 1 table-spoonful
Feas — continued.
of flour that has been kneaded with butter ; turn all on to
a hot dish, and serve.
Stewed Green Peas with Spanish Sauce. — Put some
young Peas in an earthenware pan with a small piece of
butter and plenty of fresh water ; rub them well with the
hands, then drain. Put them in a stewpan with a bunch
of parsley and two or three green onions, place the lid on,
ami let them sweat. When nearly done, pour in with the
Peas 1J teacupfuls of Spanish sauce, season with sugar and
salt, skim off all the fat, and boil the sauce till reduced ;
thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, and serve.
This is a very flavoursome dish, and should be freely
garnished with a border of small croutons of bread fried
in bacon-fat.
Sugar-Peas. — These are quite a variety by themselves,
the pods not having the inner film peculiar to all other
Pea-pods. They are consequently more fleshy and crisp,
and admit of being cut and dressed like French beans,
or in other ways in which the pod is cooked with the Peas.
There are several varieties of Sugar-Peas, the best being
Butter-Pea, Dwarf Dutch, Early Dwarf Brittany, Forty
Days, Giant, and Large Crooked.
Boiled Sugar-Peas. — Put the required quantity of Peas in
a saucepan of water, leaving them in their shells, and boil
for half-an-hour. Drain the water off the Peas and put
a lump of butter in with them ; beat the yolks of two
eggs with a small quantity of cream, then stir them in
with the rest, adding a few drops of vinegar; when quite
hot (do not let them boil again), turn the Peas on to a
hot dish, and serve.
Stewed Sugar-Peas.— (1) Boil 2qts. of young Sugar-Peas,
and when done, drain them. Put them in a stewpan with
six young green onions, I A teacupfuls of white sauce, 2
teaspoonfuls of fine moist sugar, and a small quantity
of pepper and salt ; stir all gently over a slow fire and let
them simmer for ten minutes ; then stir in the yolks of
two eggs beaten with a little cream. Move the stewpan
to the side of the fire, stir the contents till thick, but do
not let them boil again ; take out the onions, turn the
rest on to a hot dish, and serve.
(2) Put 2qts. of Sugar-Peas in a large saucepan with
six young onions, Jib. of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley,
and sufficient water to cover the Peas ; rub them together
for a few minutes with the hands, then strain otl the
water, and put in 1 table-spoonful of moist sugar and
1 teaspoonful of salt. Place the saucepan over a sharp fire
and toss the Peas about occasionally ; a little water may
be added if too dry. When the Peas are tender, take out
the onions and bunch of parsley; mix 1 table-spoonful of
flour with 2 table-spoonfuls of butter and stir it in with the
Peas over the fire till thick ; then stir in a liaison of two
yolks of eggs, but do not let it boil ; add more seasoning
if required. When moderately thick (it should be neither too
thick nor too thin), turn the Peas on to a hot dish, and serve.
(3) Wash the pods, shred them like French beans, cut them
into pieces about lin. long, and stew them gently with
butter, allowing 2 table-spoonfuls to each quart of Peas, a
seasoning of salt and pepper, and enough water to prevent
burning. They will cook tender in from twenty to thirty
minutes. Serve them in their sauce.
Sugar-Pea Salad. -Pick some Sugar-Pea pods when they
are about lin. or so in length; put them into a dish with
an equal quantity of garden cress, and arrange some slices
of tomatoes on the top (see Fig. 177). Prepare a plain
dressing of oil and vinegar, season with salt and pepper,
pour it over the salad, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
1 . -Kipper Herring.
2. — Bloater.
3. — -Sprats.
DRIED FISH.
4. — Haddock.
5. — Digby Chick.
0. Salted Cod.
7. — Salted Newfoundland
Capelins.
8. — Salted Cod’s Sounds.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
129
Peas — continued.
Tinned Green Peas. — Although these admit of al-
most precisely the same treatment as fresh green Peas,
the following receipts for their preparation are given
by cooks who have thus used them :
Stewed Tinned Green Peas. — Empty a quart tin of preserved
green Peas into a colander, then dip the colander in boil-
ing salted water. Put ‘2oz. of butter into a stewpan ;
drain the Peas well, put them in with the butter, and
season with salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg. Stir them
over the fire till hot, then mix with them a small quantity
of white sauce or loz. of butter that has been worked
with 1 table-spoonful of Hour. In the latter case the Peas
must be stirred over a moderate fire till the flour is
cooked. Turn the Peas on to a hot dish, garnish them
with sippets of toast, and serve.
Tinned Green Peas a la Frangaise. — Empty a quart tin
of green Peas into a saucepan, and put in with them 2
table-spoonfuls of butter mixed with 1 table-spoonful of
flour; stir over the fire for six or seven minutes, then
pour in h pint of cream, and let them simmer for ten minutes.
Serve the Peas with the sauce over them in a hot dish.
Tinned Green Peas in Sauce.— Strain the liquor off a
tin of French tinned Peas and stand them on the stove
to get warm ; put 1 teacupful of milk in a small sauce-
pan with 1 teaspoonful of butter and h teaspoonful of salt,
and stir it over the fire till boiling. Blend 1 teaspoonful
of flour in 1 teacupful of milk, then mix it in with the
sauce and stir it a minute or two longer over the fire ;
put the Peas in, heat them thoroughly, then turn all into
a hot dish, and serve.
Tinned Green-Pea Salad. — Empty a tin of preserved green
Peas into a stewpan, put in with them a few sprigs of
mint and a pat of butter, and stew them over a gentle
fire ; afterwards let them get cold. Put the yolks of two
hard-boiled eggs in a basin, and mash them up with 1
teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste,
and a few drops of the best salad-oil. When quite smooth
work in with the paste some more oil, making 4 table-
spoonfuls in all, | teacupful of tarragon vinegar, and a
few chopped leaves of mint and tarragon. Mix all well
with the Peas, pile them on a dish, and serve.
Tinned Green-Peas Sautes. — Open a tin of green Peas,
drain, wash them in cold water, drain again, and
put them into a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls of butter,
1 saltspoonful of salt, and | saltspoonful of pepper, and
shake them over the fire until they are hot; then serve
at once.
Dried Green Peas. — Many cooks use these in pre-
ference to any other mode of preparing green Peas for
winter use. The following receipts for drying them lias
been contributed by one of our staff, who states that he
is never without a goodly supply of them, so highly does
he esteem their culinary qualities. These Peas are some-
times put on a dish, sprinkled with water, and placed
in a warm place until they commence to sprout ; they are
then used as green Peas.
Procure freshly shelled Peas, put them in a saucepan of
boiling water and leave them for five minutes ; next turn
the Peas into a colander and drain them. Lay them on
a cloth spread over a table until the moisture has been
absorbed, then put them on dishes, and place them in a
cool oven for a short time to harden. Afterwards put
them in paper bags, tie them up, and hang them in a
warm dry closet. Before cooking these Peas they should
be soaked all night in soft water, or water with a pinch
of soda in it.
Dried Green Peas with Sweet and Sour Sauce. — Soak
the Peas and then put them in a saucepan with a little
water to keep them from burning, and boil until tender,
which will take from three to four horn's. When done,
strain the water off the Peas and take a little of it to
make the sauce with. Thicken the water with 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour; mix with it 111), of treacle and 1
dessert-spoonful of vinegar, and stir over the fire till
Peas — continued.
boiling ; put in the sauce some fried bacon cut in small
pieces, and some fried onions also finely cut. Turn the
Peas on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Puree of Dried Green Peas. — (1) Soak lqt. of these Peas
overnight, and next morning drain them, put them in a
saucepan with an onion stuck with four cloves, a few
sprigs of thyme and parsley, and 2 bay-leaves tied
together, several peppercorns, and a moderate-sized lump
of salt, pour in plenty of cold water, and boil the Peas
until tender. When cooked, strain off the water and
mash the Peas through a fine hair sieve. Melt a large
lump of butter in a saucepan, put in the Peas and stir
them over the fire until quite hot, adding a small quan-
tity of milk or broth if too stiff. Turn the puree on to
a hot dish, and serve with boiled bacon.
(2) Put the Peas, previously soaked, in a saucepan with
a piece of the back of bacon, three or four carrots and
onions, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, and
some cold water ; boil them about four hours or till the
Peas are soft. Pass all through a hair sieve. Warm the
puree again thoroughly, colour it green with a little
extract of spinach, turn the puree into a hot dish, and
serve.
Stewed Dried Green Peas. — Put the Peas to soak in
soft water all night; if very good boiling Peas a shorter
tune will do. Put them over the fire with just enough
water to cover them, a bit of pork or beef, and a gcod-
Fig. 178. Stewed Dried Green Peas.
sized piece of butter. Let them stew very gently till the
meat is done and the Peas are quite soft. If the meat is not
salt, add salt and pepper, lay the meat in the centre of
the dish, put the Peas all round (see Fig. 178), and serve hot.
Split Peas. — The common field Pea is the one that is
usually used for the preparation of these. They are
shelled when old, dried, and then split. Sometimes they are
ground into flour, in which form they are exceedingly
liable to adulteration. It is therefore advisable to pur-
chase only such Pea-flour that bears the name of some re-
liable firm on the packets. When ground, Peas quickly
lose much of their flavour.
Peas Porridge. — Peel and cut in slices two Spanish onions,
fry them with a stick of celery and a little butter till
nicely browned, then put them in a saucepan with two
anchovies, a crust of bread, a bunch of sweet herbs, a
small quantity of pepper and salt, and 3qts. of water;
boil them gently for an-liour-and-a-half. Skim and strain
the liquor; grate lib. of raw potatoes, put them in the
soup with 1 pint of split Peas ; boil the Peas till soft,
then pass them through a sieve into the porridge again.
Put in six leeks that have been cut up, and cook them
in it. If not thick enough a little flour and butter may
be mixed with the Porridge. Turn it into a hot dish,
and serve.
Peas Pudding. — (1) Take lib. of split Peas, put them into
enough soft water to cover, and let them steep for
twelve hours. Then tie them in a cloth, leaving room
to swell, and boil for nearly four hours. Take them
out of the cloth, rub them through a hair sieve, then mix
into them a little salt and a small quantity of butter ; put
them into the cloth again, tying tightly, and boil for
half-an-hour, and serve.
(2) Put 1 pint of split Peas to soak the night before
they are wanted, and on the following morning drain
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tfcc., referred, to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
K
130
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peas — continued.
them; put them into a saucepan with plenty of fresh
water and boil until tender. When cooked, drain all the
water off the Peas and rub them through a fine hair
sieve. Beat the Peas up together with a lump of butter,
the yolks of two eggs, and salt and pepper to taste.
Butter a mould, turn the mixture into it, tie a cloth
over the top, and put it into a saucepan of boiling water.
Boil the pudding for two hours, then turn it on to a hot
dish, and serve.
(3) Tie 1 pint of split Peas loosely in a cloth, leaving
them plenty of room to swell ; put them in a saucepan
of water and boil gently for about three hours. When
cooked, turn the Peas on to a fine hair sieve and rub
them through with the aid of a wooden spoon. Beat well
in with the Peas two eggs, 2 table-spoonfuls of cream,
and loz. of butter, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
Turn the mixture into a cloth, tie it up tightly, plunge
it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for lialf-an-
hour. Turn the pudding on to a hot dish, and serve.
Peas Soup. — (1) Put over the fire in 4qts. of water or
broth a ham-bone, bones of roasted beef or mutton, two
heads of celery washed aud trimmed, four onions peeled, and
l|lb. of split Peas. Let it boil till the Peas are quite
soft, take out the bones, and mb the Peas and vegetables
through a sieve, return them to the soup, add salt and
pepper to taste, and boil it for an hour, skimming
when required. Spinach or green Peas added when
the bones are taken out improves the soup very much.
(2) Put 6 breakfast-cupfuls of split Peas into a sauce-
pan with a small lump of butter, salt to taste, and more
than sufficient cold watei to cover them ; put in a slice
or two of lean ham and simmer gently for about two
hours. Take out the ham, mb the Peas through a fine
sieve into another saucepan, add the required quantity of
consomme, and boil for an hour to clarify it. Put a little
spinach colouring at the bottom of the tureen, remove
the saucepan with the purde of Peas from the fire, stir
in a little sugar and butter, pour it gradually into the
tureen, stirring well, and serve with pieces of toasted bread.
(3) Without Meat. — Boil \ pint of split Peas in 3qts.
of water for three hours, then fry in dripping a carrot,
scraped, washed, and cut in slices, two onions peeled and
sliced, and a head of celery washed and cut up ; add them
to the boiling Peas, together with pepper and salt to
taste, and simmer gently for an-hour-and-a-half.
(4) Imitation. — Put a saucepan containing some well-
flavoured stock on the fire, season to taste with herbs,
especially mint, and add sufficient revalenta Arabica or
other farina to make it of the consistence of thin cream.
Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve with pieces of
toasted bread. A little butter or thick cream may be
added if desired.
(5) It may be made by mixing some revalenta with
water, or milk and water in equal parts, and stirring in
some extract of meat, and salt and pepper to taste.
PEAFOWL (Fr. Paons ; Ger. Psauen ; Ital. Pavona ;
Sp. Pavoes). — These very beautiful birds do not often find
their way to the table, nor, according to some, is this much
to be regretted. The flesh is tough, having something of
the flavour of the pheasant, if properly hung. The great
attraction of the male bird is its beautiful plumage, which
proved too great a temptation for some of our old time
cooks, who stuffed the carcase of the bird with savoury
meats, and dressed the cooked body in its gaudy plumage
stripped from the bird together with the skin soon after
death. It is usual to leave the head on, feathers and all,
and to wrap it round with several folds of paper to prevent
it being spoiled in the cooking. This custom was not
practised by our ancestors, who served the peacock at
Christmas; they preferred to skin the bird as before
mentioned, and then the whole plumage, head, feathers,
and tail could be mounted beforehand, and all set on the
cooked bird at once. See Pig. 179.
The Peafowl, either peacock or peahen, can be cooked
in every respect like the pheasant ; but the two following
receipts are especially recommended :
Peafowl. — continued.
Braised Peacock.— .The bird should not be plucked, but
carefully skinned, so as not to disturb the plumage.
Care should also be taken not to disturb the neck and
head. Cover the bird with slices of bacon seasoned with
finely-chopped parsley, chives, shallots, half a head of
garlic, sage, thyme, grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper.
Put some slices of bacon at the bottom and round the
sides of a braising-pan, put in the bird, cover it with
more bacon, and moisten with equal quantities of water,
white wine, and stock. Put round the peacock some
pieces of knuckle of veal, a few carrots, turnips, a parsnip,
a bunch of sweet herbs, a few cloves and peppercorns,
and some mixed spices. Put the lid on the braising-pan
and let the contents simmer for four hours. When cooked,
take the bird out, leave it till cold, then put the plumage
on in its original position, raise the head and neck with
a piece of wire, spread out the tail in a fan shape, and
serve.
Boasted Peahen. — Trass a young peahen, lard its breast
and legs, stuff it with a veal or turkey forcemeat, fix it
on a spit, and roast it for an-hour-and-a-half in front of
a clear fire. Put the bird, when cooked, on a hot dish,
remove the buttered paper from the head, glaze the body,
pour a little rich brown gravy round it, garnish with
watercress, and serve with a sauceboatful of bread sauce.
Fie. 180. Pea-nuts;
PEA-NUTS . — The remarkable plant ( Arachis hypogsea)
which bears Pea-nuts is said to be a native of the western
coast of Africa ; but it is now cultivated very extensively
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COO KELT.
131
Pea-nuts — continued.
in India for tlie sake of its oil, which has many peculiar
merits. The pods containing the seeds (see Tig. 180)
are usually found either on or under the ground. The
external husk, something of a lobster shape, with a waist
or central depression, contains from two to four red
coloured seeds about the size of field peas, having also
much the same flavour. In Africa the negroes make
a food from it called munduli, which they eat with much
relish.
The Pea-nut which is also known as Monkey-nut,
Earth-nut, Ground-nut, and Goober, is not much used
in cookery in this country, nevertheless it admits of some
useful forms of preparation.
Pea-nut Candy. — (1) Dissolve 21b. of sugar and 1 salt-
spoonful of cream of tartar in J pint of cold water, then
set it over a moderate fire and cook till brittle, adding
and stirring in about Joz. of butter. Shell some Pea nuts,
and rub off as much of the inner skin as possible. Put
a layer of them, two deep, at the bottom of some well-
buttered tins, and when the candy is ready, pour it over
them, and leave till cold. Then cut it or break it into
pieces of a convenient size.
(2) Shell lqt. of Pea-nuts (measured in their shells).
Put Jib. of molasses in a saucepan over the fire, boil it,
stirring constantly till a little dropped from the spoon
hardens in cold water. Then stir in 1 table -spoonful of
extract of vanilla, 1 saltspoonful of bicarbonate of soda
(dry), and lastly the shelled Pea nuts. When these are
well mixed in, turn the candy into buttered shallow tins,
and press it down smooth with the back of a wooden
spoon.
Pea-nut Sauce. — Remove the shells from 1 pint of Pea-
nuts, blanch, and break them in halves, put them in
boiling stock, and boil till soft ; then mash them fine in
the stock in which they were cooked. Brown 1 table-
spoonful of flour in 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, then stir
it in with the nuts and cook for five minutes. Season
to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
Salted Pea-nuts. — Shell and skin about lqt. of Pea-nuts, melt
loz. of butter before the fire, put the nuts into it, and
stir them about so as to oil them well with it. Put
them on another dish, brown them in the oven, sprinkle
with fine salt, and serve hot.
PEACHES (Fr. Peclies ; Ger. Psirsichen ; Ital.
Pesche ; Sp. Melocotons). — This very delicious fruit
{Persica vulgaris) is a variety of the almond tribe; the
three fruits Almond, Peach, and Nectarine differ from
each other principally in the nature of the covering of the
stone. In the Almond the covering, or drupe as it is
called, is tough and leathery, whereas in the Peach and
Nectarine it is fleshy and succulent. The Peach
differs from the Nectarine in that the skin of the former is
fluffy and that of the latter smooth. All three fruits
are sometimes found growing on the same tree, and at
times on the same branch. More than this the fruit is
occasionally found to be a Peach on one side and a Nec-
tarine on the other. The word Peach is a corruption of
Persica, so called because they are supposed to be natives
of Persia, and on their introduction in the South of
Europe were known as Persian Apples. In many parts
of the East, and in the more temperate parts of North
and South America, the Peach is grown abundantly,
especially in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Maryland.
“ The varieties of Peaches and Nectarines,” Lindley
informs us, “ are very numerous, and would be difficult
to distinguish, were it not for a classification formed from
certain characters afforded by the fruit, leaves, and
flowers. In some varieties the fruit has firm flesh, ad-
hering to the stone ; such are termed clingstones. Others
have melting flesh, parting readily from the stone ; these
are called melters or freestones. The leaves are either
glandless, or are furnished with globose, or with reniform
glands at their bases. In some the flowers are large, in
others small. Formerly the Peaches and Nectarines
Peaches — continued.
known in Europe had all bitter kernels; but sweet -
kemelled varieties have of late years been introduced from
Syria. The following are some of the best varieties of
Peaches : Noblesse, Royal George, Acton Scot, Gross*;
Mignonne, Bellegarde, Late Admirable, and Walburton
Admirable.”
Although the fruit of the Peach is perfectly harmless
the flowers and the seeds contain a quantity of prussic
acid. From the crushed fruit and seeds together a very
fine nutty-flavoured brandy is prepared in many parts
where Peaches are plentiful. In America, more par-
ticularly in Maryland, Peaches are used for feeding
hogs.
The best Peaches for dessert are the freestones; the
clingstones being more frequently used for cooking.
Large quantities of Peaches preserved in tins are imported
from America; and these are considered by many con-
fectioners to answer every purpose for cooking, although
it must be confessed that they lack somewhat in flavour.
See Almonds, Nectarines.
Baked Peach Dumplings. — Mix 1 teaspoonful of cream of
tartar and 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda with lqt.
of flour; add a little salt, sift them together, and make
it into a paste with a small quantity of milk and water.
Sprinkle a little Hour on the table, and roll the paste
out several times, putting little pieces of lard on it to
the extent of 6oz. Roll out thin the last time, and cut it
into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. Put two or three
pieces of canned Peaches on each round, 1 teaspoonful
of butter, and 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar. Draw
the edges firmly together ami place the dumplings on a
large deep baking-dish, put them in a hot oven, and
bake quickly. When baked, place. them on a hot dish,
sprinkle a little caster sugar over them, and serve.
Boiled Peach Dumplings. — Put in a basin Jib. of well-
sifted flour, mixed with Joz. of baking powder ; make a
hollow in the centre and pour into it 1 gill of lukewarm
milk ; add Joz. of butter, J saltspoonful of salt, and break
in one whole egg. Mix the ingredients well for two
minutes, then incorporate the flour gradually. Lay the
paste on a lightly-floured board or table, roll it into a
square Jin. thick, then with a plain paste-cutter cut out
six pieces, putting in the middle of each piece 2oz. of
stewed peaches, fold up the edges all round, so as to
enclose the peaches entirely. Have six small pieces of thick
white cloth, Sin. square, butter and flour them well,
arrange the dumplings in them, tie them firmly, leaving
an empty space of lin. to allow the dumplings to swell,
plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water, and
let them boil for twenty minutes ; remove from the fire,
lift them out with a fork, drain for two minutes, cut the
strings, and remove the cloths. Dress the dumplings on
a hot dish, pour over hot wine sauce, and serve.
Compote of Peaches. — (1) Take some ripe Peaches, cut
them in halves, peel and stone them, and put them over
the fire in a saucepan; cover with thick syrup, and let
them simmer till sufficiently cooked. Crack the stones,
and when the peaches are done enough lift them carefully
out of the syrup with a skimmer, place them in a rather
deep dish, and put the kernels in. Let the kernels and
syrup boil till pretty thick, add strained lemon-juice to
taste, mix it well with the syrup, and then pour it over
the peaches in the dish. This may be served either hot
or cold.
(2) Wipe some Peaches, divide them in halves, and put
them in a preserving pan with a little syrup, and let
them stew gently for eight or ten minutes. When done,
take the Peaches out carefully, drain, and arrange them
in a circle on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup with a little
raspberry juice, pour it round the Peaches, fill the centre
with whipped cream, and serve.
Compote of Peach and Orange. — Peaches put up in tins
with syrup will do very well for this dish. Cut the tin
open, drain the syrup from the Peaches, and add to this
syrup as much sugar as it will dissolve. If the Peaches
are not already sliced, slice them ; to a 2lb. tin of Peaches
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils. Sauces, &c., refetred to, see under their special heads.
K
2
132
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peaches — continued.
add six medium sized oranges, peel them, slice them rather
thin, taking out all the pips; arrange the Peaches and
oranges in alternate layers on a dish. Sprinkle over them
, plenty of finely-powdered white sugar, pour the syrup
over, and serve.
Compote of Peaches with Rice. — (1) Boil some rice and
slightly sweeten it, flavour with vanilla, and mix up the
yolk of an egg with it. Prepare a compote of Peaches.
Put the rice in small pats on a dish, place half a Peach
on each, pour the syrup over, and serve.
(2) Split nine Peaches into halves, take out the stones,
and plunge the Peaches in boiling water to loosen their
skins ; drain, peel, put the Peaches in a basin, and
cover them with syrup at 3Udeg. ( see Syrups). Wash
Jib. of rice, blanch it for eight or nine minutes, then
drain and refresh it ; put it in a stewpan with sufficient
warm milk to cover it, adding more milk as that dries up.
When the rice is nearly cooked, put it in together with a
stick of vanilla, cut in pieces, and 2 heaped table-spoonfuls
of caster sugar. Take the saucepan off the fire and keep
it covered for ten minutes. Butter a border-mould ; mix
3 table -spoonfuls of butter with the rice and put it in the
mould, pressing it well down. Keep the rice warm for
ten minutes, then turn it out of the mould on to a dish,
fill the centre with the halves of Peaches, building them
in a pyramid shape. Reduce some of the syrup with a
little apple juice and pour it over them. Blanch and peel some
sweet almonds, split them into halves, stick one on each
Peach, and serve, with the remainder of the syrup mixed
with a little maraschino in a sauceboat.
Dried Peaches. — (1) Cut some Peaches into halves and put
them in a preserving-pan with some syrup at 22deg. ( see
Syrup) ; let them simmer for a few minutes till the skins
can be easily removed ; take them out, peel, and put them
back in the syrup ; boil for a few minutes, then turn all
into a basin and let them be till the following day. Drain
the syrup off the Peaches, boil it up again, then pour it
over them. Proceed in this manner the two following days.
Put the Peaches on drainers, dip a camel’s hair brush in
prepared cochineal or carmine, paint the Peaches lightly
over, and set them in the screen to dry. Boil 1 1,1b. of
sugar to the pearl degree [see Sugar-boiling), drain the
juice of a lemon in with it, and work the sugar at the
side of the pan with a spoon until it becomes whitish,
then put in the Peaches and shake them gently about.
Take each piece out with a fork, arrange them on the brass
drainer, anti set them in the screen at a moderate heat to
dry. In about an hour’s time pack the Peaches in card-
board-boxes, with a sheet of white paper between each
layer.
(2) Get the Peaches just before they are ripe, peel them
and take out the stones. Put the Peaches in boiling water,
and leave till they are a little soft, then take them out
and throw them into a bucket of cold water. When cold,
drain, and weigh them, and to every pound of Peaches,
use Jib. of caster sugar. Put the Peaches in a preserving-
pan with the sugar, and leave them till enough syrup has
run from them to allow of their being put over a slow
fire. Boil the Peaches gently till they look very clear, then
turn them into a large basin, and leave all night. On the
following day, put the Peaches in dishes and set them in
the sun or in a warm place to dry, turning them every
day. When quite dry, pack them in boxes or jars.
(3) Select perfectly sound ripe Peaches, cut them length-
wise into halves, and remove their stones. Thread a large
needle with very strong thread or twine and pass it through
the halves of Peaches. If possible, hang the Peaches in
the sun ; but, if otherwise, they should be hung in a strong
current of air. When quite dry pack the Peaches away
in bottles.
Tried Peaches. — Take ten or twelve firm ripe Peaches.
Have ready on the stove a frying-pan with melted lard to
the depth of rather more than Jin. Cut the Peaches in
halves and take out the stones. When the lard is smoking
hot, put the fruit in the pan, the cut side down, fry them
a light brown, and as soon as the side next the pan is done
turn them without letting them break and cook the other
Peaches — continued.
side. As soon as they are hot through take them up, put
them on a hot dish with their cut sides up, place a little
powdered white sugar in the hollow of each, and serve
hot.
Frosted Peaches. — Take two dozen ripe Peaches and rub
the fur oft' with a soft cloth. Beat the whites of half-a-
dozen eggs and 1 teacupful of water to a stiff froth and
dip the Peaches into it, one at a time, rolling each one
immediately in powdered white sugar, and then laying
them, stem end downwards, on white paper laid on a
tray in a window well exposed to the sun ; when half dry
roll them again in sugar and place in the sun till
quite dry ; then put in a cool dry place till required. Arrange
them in a glass dish, and garnish with green leaves.
Frozen Peaches. — Take fresh ripe Peaches (large sized if
possible), skin them and cut them in halves or quarters, or
even smaller pieces if the fruit is very large; dredge over
and among every pound of Peaches Jib. of powdered white
sugar, put them into a freezer, and when frozen serve them
in a glass bowl, sprinkling on top more powdered white
sugar. Serve cream with them.
Macedoine of Peaches. — Split nine large Peaches, remove
the stones, and put the largest pieces into boiling water
to loosen their skins. Drain, peel, and put them in a
basin. Prepare a syrup, flavouring it with vanilla, and
when cold pour it over the Peaches. With the smallest
pieces of the Peaches make a puree, pass it through a
fine hair sieve, and mix with it 1 tumblerful of sweet
jelly. Wash lib. of rice and boil it in plenty of water;
when tender, drain, and pour over it some syrup flavoured
with vanilla. Cut out some little balls of apples with a
vegetable-cutter and boil them in a little weak syrup;
drain, and put them in a basin with a little prepared
carmine and 2 table-spoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup,
and let them soak in it for half-an-hour. When ready to
serve, drain the Peaches, stir the purtle over ice to thicken
it, and mix the rice, well drained, with it ; fill the halves of
the Peaches with the puree and rice ; drain the balls of apples,
cut them in halves, and arrange them round the prepara-
tion in the halves of Peaches, with one piece on the
top. Brush all over with half set jelly, fix a gum-paste
mound with a support in the centre on a round dish,
and garnish with croutons of orange jelly; arrange the
Peaches in a circle on the mound, putting one in the
middle, and serve.
Peaches au Gratin. — Tinned or fresh Peaches can he used ;
if the latter, they must be cut into halves, their stones
removed, and stewed with plenty of sugar and a small
quantity of water. Thickly butter a shallow dish ; drain
the Peaches from their syrup, lay them in the dish, cut
side downwards, and strew over them plenty of finely-
grated breadcrumbs. Mix with the syrup J wineglassful
of noyau and a small quantity of strained lemon-juice;
pour it over the Peaches, strew more breadcrumbs over the
top, and. baste them with a few table-spoonfuls of
warmed butter. Put the dish in a brisk oven and bake
until lightly browned over the top. Serve the Peaches in
the same dish, accompanied by a jug of frothed cream.
Peach-and-Apricot Fritters. — Cut some ripe Peaches and
apricots in halves and take out the stones ; divide them
in quarters and peel them; put them in a basin, sprinkle
a little caster sugar over, pour in a little cognac, and let
them steep in it for half-an-hour. Drain the Peaches and
apricots, dip them in frying-batter, and fry them a few at
a time in boiling butter. Drain, anil arrange them on a
hot dish, sprinkle caster sugar over, and serve.
Peach. Bavaroise. — Mash lqt. of canned Peaches, pass them
with the juice through a fine hair sieve, and mix in 1
breakfast-cupful of caster sugar. Soak Joz. of gelatine in
1 teacupful of cold water for two hours. Put the Peaches
in a lined saucepan and let them simmer for twenty
minutes, stirring often. Mix the gelatine with the 'Peaches
and remove them from the fire at once. Whip 1 pint of
cream to a froth. Stand the saucepan with the Peaches
in a bowl of ice water, and beat them till they begin to
thicken, then stir in the cream. When thoroughly mixed,
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
133
Peaches — continued.
pour the preparation into a mould and set it away to
harden. Turn the cream out of the mould on to a dish,
and serve with whipped cream.
Feach Brandy. — Take 51b. of sound ripe peaches, crush
them together with the peels and stones, and put all into
a tub ; pour over them 5qts. of alcohol, of 95 per cent.,
and 4qts. of water, and let it stand for twenty-four hours,
keeping the tub covered. Strain off the liquor, squeezing
the Peaches to get all the liquor from them, and strain
it through flannel or filtering paper. Make a syrup by
dissolving in water as much white sugar as the water will
hold in solution, and if the sugar he very pure indeed
this need not he hoiled. Should the sugar not he suffi-
ciently pure, it must he hoiled till clear, taking off the
scum as it rises. Add to the strained liquor 1| pint
of this syrup (if hoiled, the syrup must he left till it
is cold before adding it to the liquor), then mix it a
little and bottle, corking it well. 1 wineglassful of this
mixed with 1 table- spoonful of honey makes a nice winter
drink.
Peaches in Brandy. — Split some large Peaches in halves,
put them in a lined pan with some syrup, and boil for
two or three minutes ; then take them out, peel the skins
off, put them hack again in the same syrup, and let them
simmer for five minutes ; then take the pan off the fire,
and leave the Peaches in it till the next day. Drain the
Peaches, and arrange them carefully in jars. Boil their
syrup to the feather degree ( see SUGAR- BOILING), then
mix with it an equal quantity of white brandy, and when |
nearly cold pour it over the Peaches. When the syrup is
quite cold, cork the jars, and tie bladder over the tops.
Keep them in a cool dry cupboard.
Peach. Brandy and Arrack Punch. — Put loz. of noyau
essence and Joz. of essence of lemon into a howl, and
mix them well up with 1 qt. of Peach brandy. Now pour
in lqt. of essence of arrack, h pint of lime-juice, and stir
in 3qts. of plain syrup, bottle it, cork up securely, and
it will he fit to use in seven or eight days.
Peach-Brandy Fiz. — Mix 1 dessert spoonful of syrup in a
small glass with 1 wineglassful of brandy, put in a few
lumps of ice, then pour the whole through a strainer into
a large glass. Add 1 teaspoonful of Peach brandy, pour in
a small bottle of soda water, and drink at once.
Peach-Brandy Julep. — Put 1 wineglassful of good Peach
brandy or liqueur into a large glass with an equal quan- I
tity of syrup and half the quantity of brandy (cognac) ;
then fill up the glass with broken ice ; over that place
a sprig of balm to flavour. Sprinkle the ice with a little noyau,
dust over with sugar, and serve with a few sprays of red
and white currants in the glass. Serve with straws.
Feach Butter. — Rub ‘2qts. of Peaches with a coarse towel,
cut them into slices, and put them in a preserving-pan
with 1 pint of water. Place the lid on, move the pan to
the back of the fire, and let the contents stew for an
hour. Put 4 breakfast-cupfuls of preserving sugar in
with the Peaches, and boil them for half-an-hour longer,
stirring all the time with a wooden spatula. If left it
will burn. Turn the butter into a jar, and keep it in a
cool place.
Peach Charlotte. — Peel six Peaches, cut them in halves,
and take out their stones ; chop them in little pieces,
put them in a basin, sprinkle some vanilla sugar over
them and 1 wineglassful of rum. Cut some thin slices of
cake into fingers and line a charlotte-mould with them,
letting them overlap each other. Stand the mould in a
basin and surround it with pounded ice. In a-quarter-of-
an-hour’s time put a layer of the pieces of Peaches at the
bottom of the mould. Whip a little unset jelly with
some maraschino, then pour sufficient into the mould to
cover the Peaches. Leave it till the jelly is set, then
put in another layer of the Peaches and some more jelly ;
continue in the same manner till the mould is full, allow-
ing the jelly to set before another layer is put in. Lay
a cover over the mould and keep it in ice for lialf-an-
hour. Turn the charlotte out of the mould on to a dish ;
dip a paste brush in some maraschino, and brush all round
Peaches — continued.
to flavour it. Peel three Peaches, cut them in quarters,
garnish round the base of the charlotte with them (see
Fig. 181), pour some maraschino syrup over it, and serve.
Peach Cheese.— (1) Procure the requisite amount of green
Peaches, wipe them with a dry cloth to remove any im-
purities, put them in a saucepan, and for each pound of
fruit pour in about ^ pint of cold water. Boil them
over a gentle fire until quite soft, then rub them through
a fine hair sieve. Break some of the stones and mix
their kernels with the Peach pulp. Weigh the pulp, and
allow half its weight of coarsely-crushed loaf sugar; put
it into a preserving-pan, boil it for a few minutes, then
put in the sugar with the strained juice of two or three
lemons, and stir it with a wooden spoon until reduced to
a thick pulp. Turn the pulp into small moulds, keep
them in a cool place, and when cold and firm the pulp
may be turned out of the mould. The Peaches should be
well looked over to see that they are perfectly sound
before they are used. If one or two rotten ones are put
in they will spoil the whole cheese.
(2) Peel eight ripe Peaches, divide them into halves,
take out the stones, and stew them in a little syrup till
very tender; then drain, and pass them through a fine
hair sieve. Crack the stones, peel the kernels, and put
them in a mortar, pound them, pass them through a line
hair sieve, and mix with the pulp of the Peaches and a
little melted isinglass. Beat 1 pint of thick cream to a
froth, then add it to the Peaches with more sugar if re-
quired ; stand the basin over ice, and continue whipping
till the isinglass is melted. Fill a mould with the pre-
paration, surround it with pounded ice and salt, and stir
the contents till frozen. Dip the mould in tepid water,
wipe it, turn the cheese on an ornamental dish, and serve.
(3) Peel twelve ripe Peaches, take out the stones, and
pass the pulp through a fine hair sieve. Dissolve ten or
twelve leaves of gelatine, mix it with the puree in a
small copper bowl, and add also 4 pint of syrup that has
been slightly flavoured with vanilla; stand the bowl on
ice and whip the contents till beginning to thicken. Mix
with the puree 1 wineglassful of maraschino, a little
kirschenwasser, and 1 A teacupfuls of whipped and sweetened
cream. Pack a jelly-mould in pounded ice, fill it with
the preparation, cover the mould, and leave it for an
hour. Dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, and turn
the contents out on to a fancy dish, and serve.
Peach. Cheese Cakes. — Soak loz. of gelatine in a small
quantity of water, then strain and put it into a stewpan
with 1 breakfast-cupful of tinned Peaches and 1 breakfast-
cupful of the juice. Stew the whole until the fruit is
tender and the gelatine has dissolved ; then mash the
fruit with a wooden spoon, and mix in \ teacupful of
pounded sweet biscuits, two well-beaten eggs, and about
1 table-spoonful of caster sugar; the mixture should be
moved off the fire before the eggs are added. Butter
sufficient patty-pans for the above quantity of fruit mixture
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134
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peaches — continued.
and line them with a light paste. Pour the mixture into
the pans, put a small lump of butter on the top of each,
and put them in a brisk oven. In about half-an-liour’s
time the cake should be sufficiently baked ; turn them out
of the tins and arrange them on a dish that has been
garnished with a folded napkin or a fancy-edged disli-
paper. They may be served either hot or cold.
Peach Cobbler. — Make a short-paste and line a buttered
shallow baking-dish with it. Peel some Peaches, cut them
into halves, put them an inch deep in the tin and sift
a little caster sugar over them; cover with crust, just
moistening the edges and pressing them together, and bake
for kalf-an-hour. When cooked, take the pie out of the
tin, put it on a dish, cut it into squares, and sprinkle
caster sugar over. Serve either hot or cold.
Peach Conserves. — Peel some Peaches and cut them in
thick slices from the stones. Make a syrup, allowing fib.
of sugar to each pound of fruit. Boil the Peaches in it,
then drain, and put them on dishes till dry. As they
dry roll them in granulated sugar, and pack in jars or
boxes.
Peach Cordial. — Take J peck of very juicy Peaches, peel
and stone them, and crack about half the stones. Put
the Peaches, the kernels, and the stones that are not
cracked into a large jar, pour over them lgall. of double
rectified whisky, and add I Alb. of rock sugar-candy. Cork
it tight and let it stand three months. Filter through
blotting paper, bottle it, and cork well. It is fit to use
immediately.
Peach Cream. — (1) Peel twelve ripe Peaches and take the
stones out. Put the Peaches in a preserving-pan with ilb.
of crushed loaf sugar and \ pint of cold water. Boil the
fruit gently over a slow fire till it is dissolved, then pass
it through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the pulp 1 pint of
whipped cream and loz. of dissolved gelatine, colour it
with a few drops of cochineal, and mix it well. Wet a
fancy-mould with cold water, pour the preparation in, and
leave it till firm. "VVTien ready to serve turn it out on to
a glass dish.
(2) Open a tin of Peaches and strain the juice through
a fine sieve into a basin; colour the rounded side of each
Peach until cochineal and let them dry. Put loz. of
isinglass in 1 pint of cream and stir it over the fire until dis-
solved. When the cream is nearly cold, mix it until the
juice of the Peaches and the strained juice of one lemon.
Pour two-thirds of the cream into a glass dish and put it
in a cold place ; when set, arrange the Peaches on the top
of it, pour the remainder of the cream carefully in between
them, and leave until firm ; then serve.
(3) Put 1 heaped breakfast-cupful of tinned Peaches and
then- juice into a lined saucepan, stew them over a slow
fire until tender, then pass them through a fine wire sieve.
Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of condensed milk and 1 teacupful
of cream with the fruit and beat well. Put a few rusks
in a glass dish, pour the cream over them, and serve.
(4) Put Joz. of isinglass and A pint of cream in a small
saucepan and stir it over the fire till the isinglass is dis-
solved. Take the cream off the fire, leave it till almost
cold, then mix with it the strained juice of a tin of
Peaches, and pour three-parts of it in a glass dish and
leave till set. Brush the rounded sides of the Peaches
over with a little prepared cochineal, and arrange them
pink sides up on the cream when firm. Pour the rest
of the cream carefully between the Peaches and leave
till set.
Peaches and Cream. — Peel lqt. of soft yellow Peaches, cut
them in quarters, put them in a glass dish, sprinkle Jib.
of caster sugar over, and leave them for two or three
hours. Serve with cream poured over them, or separately.
Peach Cream Ice. — (1) Peel six ripe Peaches and boil them
in J pint of water until dissolved. Pass the pulp through a
fine hair sieve, then mix with it 1 pint of syrup, 1 pint
of thick cream, a few drops of essence of kernels, and colour it
lightly with a little cochineal. Put the preparation in a
freezing- pot ( see Ices), and work it till frozen. Fill a
plain mould with the Peach ice, put the lid on, and pack ,
Peaches — co ntinued.
it in ice. When ready to serve, dip the mould in tepid
water, wipe it, and turn the cream out on to a dish.
(2) Flavour lqt. of thick cream with some Peach extract,
put it in the freezer, and work it till frozen. Peel and
cut in halves lqt. of Peaches, mix 2 breakfast-cupfuls of
caster sugar with them, pour the frozen cream over, and
serve.
(3) Put in a basin 41b. of powdered sugar and the yolks
of six eggs, mix them well with a spatula for ten minutes,
add 1 pint of boiling milk, stir for two minutes longer,
and pour the whole into a copper basin. Place it on a
hot stove and heat it thoroughly, stirring continually, but
do not let it boil ; remove, lay it on the table, mix in
immediately 1 pint of sweet cream, and leave it to cool
for thirty minutes. Take six ripe Peaches, wipe them, cut
them into halves, remove the stones, and mash them into the
cream, mixing thoroughly for three minutes ; strain through
a fine sieve into a freezer, pressing the Peaches through
with a wooden spoon, and freeze. Serve on a cold dish
with a folded napkin over.
Peaches on Crohtons with Cream. — Peel some Peaches,
cut them in halves, and remove the stones ; put them in
a stewpan with a small quantity of water and plenty of
loaf sugar, and stew them gently until tender. When
cooked, mix with them 1 wineglassful of white wine. Cut
some French rolls into slices about £in. thick. Put a large
piece of butter in a frying-pan and, when boiling, put in
the rounds of bread and fry them a bright golden brown.
As the rounds are fried, take them out of the fat and put
them to drain on a sheet of kitchen-paper in front of the
fire. Rest half a Peach on each round of bread, the cut
side uppermost? put a small piece of black-currant jelly in
the hollow left by the stone (see Fig. 182), arrange the
croutons tastefully in a dish, dust a little sugar over,
strain their syrup round them, and serve with cream. Tinned
Peaches may be used if more convenient than the fresh
ones ; in that case they should be turned with their syrup
into a stewpan, and boiled for three or four minutes.
Peach Custard. — Make a paste with lib. of sifted flour,
two eggs, 2oz. of butter, and a very little salt. Butter
the inside of a tin mould, line it with the paste, and bake.
Boil the Peaches in syrup ; take the paste out of the
mould when done, and put the Peaches in. Boil the syrup
till reduced, then pour it over the fruit, and serve.
Peaches for Dessert. — Wipe the Peaches carefully and
lightly over with a clean cloth ; put a circle of them on a
dish, then over those a narrower circle, and so on, finish-
ing off with one at the top, and using Peach-leaves and
moss to garnish and build them with. Put a circle of
the moss and leaves round the dish at the base of the
Peaches (see Fig. 183). Vine or artificial Peach-leaves may
be used if the genuine ones cannot be obtained.
Peach Flawn. — (1) Butter a shallow baking-dish and line
it with a good pie-crust. Cover with quartered Peaches,
then fill it with a custard and bake in a moderate oven.
Cut into squares when done, and serve.
(2) Put eight or ten not very ripe Peaches in boiling
water to loosen their skins, then drain and peel them ;
cut them into halves, remove the stones, and put the half
Peaches into a flat stewpan. Mix some kirschenwasser with
syrup and pour it over the Peaches. Peel and take out
the stones of five or six small Peaches, chop [hem, and put
them in a stewpan with a little more than J tumblerful
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TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
135
quarter-of-anhour ; when done, shake the flour out, take
the paste out of the mould, and put it back in the oven
to dry and colour. Put lOoz. of caster sugar in a sauce-
pan with | pint of water, and the thin peel of a lemon ;
peel ten Peaches, put them in with the syrup, and boil
them till tender. Fill the paste case with them, and
serve.
Peach Fritters.— Skin some ripe but firm Peaches, cut
them into halves, and take out the stones. Put the
Peaches in a bowl with some caster sugar and toss them
about well, taking care not to break them. Put lib. of
finely-sifted flour into a basin and stir in h pint of water
gradually with a wooden spoon. Beat the "whites of three
eggs till very stiff, mix them with the batter, and add
l£oz. of -warmed butter. Put a lump of lard in a frying
pan, make it warm, but not too hot, dip each piece of
Peach separately in the batter, then fry them in the lard.
When lightly browned, drain the Peaches on a cloth, lay
them on a baking-dish, the cut side downwards, sift some
caster sugar over, and glaze them under the salamander.
Arrange the Peaches in a pyramid on a folded napkin
placed on a hot dish, and serve.
Peach Ice. — (1) Peel 3 pints of ripe yellow Peaches, cut
half of them into pieces, the size of cherries, and put the
other half in a preserving-pan with lib. of preserving-
sugar and lqt. of water. Crack the stones, put the
peeled kernels in, and let them simmer over a slow fire
for a few minutes. Then mash the fruit with the back
of a wooden spoon; mix with them 1 breakfast-cupful of
bright red currant jelly, then pass all, with the exception
of the kernels, through a fine hair sieve. Put the prepar-
ation in a freezer (see Ices), and when frozen, beat in the
whipped whites of four eggs and add the pieces of Peaches.
Line some moulds with Peach ice-cream, and fill the centre
with the Peach ice. Put the lids on the moulds, embed
Peaches — continued.
them in ice, and leave them till ready to serve. Then
turn the contents on to a glass dish.
(2) Peel and stone a few ripe Peaches, and pass their
pulp through a fine hair sieve. Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls
of the puree into a basin, and mix with it the same
quantity of vanilla sugar. Then stir in f pint of cold
water and the strained juice of three oranges and one
lemon. In ten minutes’ time pass the preparation through
a fine hair sieve, put it in a freezer (see Ices), and work
it in the ice till smooth and frozen. Mix a few drops of
carmine in 1 wineglassful of maraschino and 2 table-
spoonfuls of the preparation, then mix all together. When
frozen, take the ice up with a table-spoon and build it
rock shape on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve.
Peach Jam. — (1) Procure ripe clingstone Peaches, peel them,
crack the stones, and blanch the kernels. Put the kernels
in a mortar, and pound them well. Put the skins and
broken stones in a pan with twice the quantity of water
required for the jam, and boil it until reduced to half
the quantity. Afterwards strain the liquor through a
fine hair sieve. Put the Peaches in a preserving-pan with
the pounded kernels, and for every pound of fruit put in
lib. of preserving sugar, and 1 teacupful of the liquor
from the stones, &c. Boil the mixture, keeping it well
stirred until reduced to a stiff consistency. Fill some
jars with the jam and let them stand until the following
day. Then sift a small quantity of caster sugar over
each, cover them with rounds of paper that have been
dipped in beaten egg, and tie round with twine. Keep
the jars in a dry store cupboard for use.
(2) Put some Peaches, skinned and freed of their stones,
in a preserving-pan, with an equal weight of preserving
sugar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim it, turn it
into jam pots, and leave it till cold. Dip some rounds
of white paper, cut to fit the jars, in brandy, put one on
the top of each jar, cover them with bladder, and tie
down. Keep the jars in a cool dry place.
(3) Allow for some unripe Peaches an equal quantity of
caster sugar. Peel the fruit, cut it into quarters, and
remove the stones. Put it in a preserving-pan with the
sugar, and let it stand all night. On the following morn-
ing, put the pan over the fire and boil the contents
until very tender, and the juice will jelly. When ready,
turn the preserve into jars. Two or three days later, put
in each jar a round of white paper that has been saturated
with brandy, cover with parchment, and tie down tightly.
Pack them in a dry store cupboard for use.
Feach Jelly. — (1) Procure some large Peaches, not too ripe,
wipe them well, and take out the stones, cut the Peaches
in quarters, and put them in a covered jar. Crack the
stones, cut the kernels into small pieces, and put them
in with the Peaches. Set the jar in a saucepan of boiling
water, taking care it does not come over the top, and let
it simmer till the Peaches are soft. Strain them through
a jelly-bag to extract all the juice ; measure the juice,
and put it in a preserving-pan with lib. of loaf sugar
for every pint of juice. Boil them for twenty minutes,
and skim carefully. Turn the jelly into glasses, and when
cold, lay a round of paper that has been dipped in brandy
on each, put another paper on the top, and tie down.
They will keep in good condition for some tune.
(2) Soak lioz. of gelatine in j pint of cold water. Peel,
cut in halves, and stone a-dozen-and-a-half ripe Peaches,
putting them into a stone jar with sufficient cold water
to cover. Crack about a fourth part of the stones, bruise
the kernels, and put them into the jar with the Peaches.
Cover the jar, not tight, but so that the steam may
escape, put it over the fire in a saucepan of warm water,
and cook the Peaches till they break in pieces. Put the
soaked gelatine into a large bowl, together with the grated
rind of one lemon and the juice of two, and lib. of
powdered white sugar. Strain the Peaches, scalding hot,
upon the gelatine through a colander or very coarse sieve,
and stir till the gelatine is quite melted. Then strain
through a flannel bag without either shaking or squeezing
it. Wet the inside of a mould with cold water and pour
the jelly into it. Let it stand in a cold place all night
and turn it out next day on a glass dish.
Peaches — continued.
of syrup ; stir it over the fire till boiling, adding gra-
dually a little potato flour. When thick, pass it through a
fine hair sieve, add 1 wineglassful of kirschenwasser and
a stick of vanilla, and keep it hot in the bain-marie.
Butter a flawn-mould, line it with short-paste, put a
buttered paper round, and bake it in a slack oven ; when
baked, take the buttered paper out, spread some apricot
marmalade all round the inside of the paste, take it out
of the mould, and stand it on a dish. W arm the Peaches
gradually, but do not boil them. Drain, and pile them
inside the crust, brush them over with a paste-brush
dipped in Peach marmalade, arrange some preserved fruits
of various colours over them, mix together in equal quan-
tities some kirschenwasser and syrup and pour it over them.
Put the Peach puree in a sauceboat and serve it with
the Peaches.
Fig. 183. Peaches for Dessert.
(3) Butter the inside of a mould and line it with a good
short-paste, pressing it in to take the shape of the mould.
Pinch the paste that rises above with the paste-pinchers,
■fill if. ■vvit.li flmiv fl.ml 1 iD.lc p. in n. mrwlnvQt.o nrmn «
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , iSauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
136
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peaches — continued.
Peaches in Jelly. — (1) Skin the Peaches very carefully so
as not to spoil or bruise them, using a silver knife. As
they are peeled cut them into halves, lay them in cold
water, first taking the stones out. Crack a quarter of the
stones and boil the kernels for half-an-hour in just enough
water to cover them. When all the Peaches are peeled
and stoned, take them out of the water and weigh them,
put them into a preserving-pan in layers, with their own
weight of sugar sprinkled over the layers, and let them
gradually heat until the sugar melts ; then put in the
water in which the kernels were boiled and let the Peaches
gently boil until they become transparent. Carefully lift
them out of the syrup and lay them on sieves; let the
syrup boil, keeping it well skimmed till a little of it put into
a saucer stiffens slightly as it cools ; then put the Peaches
into jars, and pour the syrup over them when it is slightly
cooled. When quite cold cover the jars down so as to be
perfectly airtight.
(“2) Peel twelve Peaches, cut them in halves, and put
them without the stones in a lined saucepan with a little
thin syrup, and boil them gently for four or five minutes.
Break the stones, peel the kernels, and put them in with
the fruit; in about an hour’s time drain the Peaches on a
sieve. Squeeze the juice of six lemons into the syrup through
a fine strainer, then pass it two or three times through a
jelly-bag till very clear; mix some clarified isinglass with
it, pour some of it into a plain mould, and stand it in
ice. When firm, arrange the Peaches over the jelly, putting
the blanched kernels between them, and sticking them
together with a little jelly. When stiff', pour in some more
jelly gradually; let it set, then fill the mould; leave the
Fig. 184. Peaches in Jelly.
mould in the ice, which should have been broken and
mixed with a little salt. When ready to serve dip the
mould in tepid water, wipe it, and turn the jelly carefully
out on to a glass dish (see Fig. 1 84).
Peach Leather. — Allow Jib. of sugar to each pound of
stoned Peaches; put sugar and fruit together over the
fire, and let them stew together, mashing it smooth as it
cooks. When it has cooked tolerably dry, take it from the
fire, butter a board well, and spread the stewed Peaches
over it in a thin sheet; put it in the sun to dry, and
when quite dry roll it up and wrap it in a cloth. It
keeps very well from one season to another.
Peach-leaves Flavouring (Persica). — Cut about a hundred
Peach- leaves, wipe them quite clean, put them into a jar
or a large bottle with a wide mouth, and pour over them
lqt. of best French brandy. Cork it well and let it stand
three weeks; strain it, and add to it an equal quantity of
capillaire; bottle and cork it tightly. It makes a nice
flavouring for puddings and custards, or may be served as
a liqueur.
Peach Leche Crema. — Put lqt. of milk over the fire in a
double-boiler; when very hot stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of
cornflour blended with a little cold milk, keep stirring
till it begins to thicken, then take it from the fire and stir
in loz. of butter. Beat up the yolks of three eggs very
light, and when the cornflour is only just warm stir them
in, and whisk all together till quite light and smooth.
Butter a pudding-dish ; peel, halve, and stone some ripe
Peaches, strew over them sufficient sugar to sweeten, put
them into the buttered dish, pour the custard or crema
over, and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes. Beat the
Peaches — continued.
whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, with enough powdered
white sugar to sweeten them. Spread this over the
leche crema after it is baked, and return it to the
oven for two or three minutes. If served hot, serve sweet
sauce with it; if cold, serve cream.
Peach Marmalade. — Put some ripe autumn Peaches that
have been peeled and stoned in layers in a deep dish,
cover them thickly with crushed loaf sugar, and leave them
for a day and night. Place the Peaches in a preserving-
pan, putting in 1 lb. of sugar for each pound of Peaches.
Boil them till thick, then pass them through a fine hair
sieve. Crack the stones, peel a few of the kernels, boil
them in a little thin syrup and mix with the marmalade.
When cold, put it in a glass dish, and serve.
Peach Meringue. — (1) Peel some ripe Peaches and stew
them. When nearly done, mix some sugar and 1 tea-
spoonful of butter with them. Butter a deep pie-dish, line
it with short-paste, and bake. When done, take the crast
out of the oven, put the stewed fruit in it, cover with the
whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and sweetened
with 3 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and put it back in
the oven and brown lightly. Serve either hot or cold.
(2) Boil together 1 breakfast-cupful of granulated sugar
and l pint of water. Peel three dozen ripe Peaches, cut
them in quarters, then put one-third of them in the boiling
syrup, and let them simmer for eight minutes. Take them
out and put in another third. Continue this till all the
fruit is done. Put the Peaches in a basin and boil the
syrup till it becomes thick, then pour it over the Peaches.
Put the whites of six eggs in an ice-box and beat the yolks
with 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar. Put 1J pints of
milk in a double boiler, and when boiling stir in 3 table-
spoonfuls of cornflour that has been mixed smooth with J
pint of milk, and boil it for five or six minutes, stirring
all the time ; pour the preparation gradually over the beaten
eggs and sugar, then return all to the boiler and stir it
over the fire for four minutes longer. Take the preparation
off’ the fire and put it away to cool. Pile the Peaches in
the centre of a shallow dish. Beat the whites of the eggs
to a stiff froth, adding gradually 5 table -spoonfuls of
caster sugar, pour it over the Peaches, put them in the
oven, and bake till lightly browned. Take the pudding
out, and leave it till cold. Flavour the cornflour pre-
paration with a few drops of essence of almonds, pour it
round the Peaches, and serve when cold.
Peach Miroton. — Put 1 table-spoonful of butter in a
sautd-pan, and when melted lay in lib. of tinned Peaches
that have been previously drained of their syrup, and
steeped for an hour in brandy. As the Peaches get warm,
dust caster sugar over them freely. When they are soft
remove the pan from the fire, squeeze the juice of a lemon
over the Peaches, stir them gently with a wooden or
silver spoon, pile them in a glass dish, and pour 1 wine-
glassful of madeira wine over. A little red-currant jelly
makes an appropriate garnish.
Peach Paste. — Peel and stone some ripe Peaches, cut them
into little pieces, and put them in a preserving pan with
a very small quantity of water. Boil and stir them till
reduced. Weigh the pulp, and for every pound use Jib. of
loaf sugar: clarify it and boil it to the feather [see Sugar-
BOILING), then stir the pulp in with it, and keep it over
the fire for a short time. Dry the paste in any shape
required.
Peach-Paste Drops. — Put lib. of thick Peach pulp in a pre-
serving-pan with lib. of preserving sugar, a few drops of oil of
almond (see Almond), and enough prepared cochineal to
give it a light pink colour. Stir it over the fire with a
wooden spoon until reduced to a stiff paste. Lay the
preparation out in drops on sheets of polished tin, using
a spouted sugar-boiler for the purpose. Put the sheets of
tin in a screen of moderate heat to dry the drops. In an
hour’s time move the drops from the tins with the aid of
a sharp-pointed knife, pack them in boxes between sheets
of paper, and keep them in a cool dry place.
Peaph Pickle (Souk).— Take ljgalls. of freshly-gathered
Peaches not quite ripe, but still pretty hard. Lay them
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
137
Peaches — continued.
carefully without bruising them in a stone jar, and cover
with weak brine. Let them stand in it for twenty-four
hours. Then take them out and carefully wipe each Peach
dry. Place them over the fire in a large pan, cover with
cider vinegar, put in with them 1 dessert spoonful of sliced
horseradish, three or four blades of mace, Joz. of stick
cinnamon, a drop or two of oil of cloves, and sufficient
sugar to temper the acidity of the vinegar. As the
vinegar begins to get warm watch the Peaches, turning
them with a wooden spoon that they may all get done
evenly. As each one gets tender enough to run a needle
into it, take it out and lay it in the jar. Do not let
them remain over the fire long enough to shrivel or
become very soft. When all the Peaches are in the jar,
boil the vinegar and spices for an hour and then pour it
over them. Put on the top of the jar 1 table-spoonful of
olive oil. The pickle will be ready for use in a few days.
Peach. Pie. — (1) Peel the Peaches, cut them in slices, and
put them in a preserving-pan ; crack the stones and put
in the peeled kernels, using for every pound of Peaches
Jib. of crushed loaf sugar and 1 cupful of water. Put
the lid on and let them stew slowly ; mash the Peaches in a
colander, line some buttered shallow tins with pie-crust, fill
them with the Peaches and bake. Serve either hot or cold.
(2) Peel lqt. of Peaches, and put them in a lined sauce-
pan with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of sugar and a little water.
Boil them till nearly as thick as marmalade, stirring
frequently, then take them off the fire and leave till nearly
cold. Mix with the Peaches 1 table-spoonful of butter ;
butter three shallow tin dishes, line them with short-paste,
and bake them. When done, take the crusts out, and
spread some of the fruit on each. Serve either hot or cold.
(3) Peel some ripe Peaches and stew them till nearly,
done, then sweeten to taste and boil them for two or
three minutes longer. Line a buttered pie-dish with short-
paste, turn the Peaches in it, place some little bits of
butter in and sift dour over ; put a crust on the top,
moisten the edges and press them together, trimming all
round close to the edge of the dish. Bake it in a quick
oven. When ready to serve, sprinkle some caster sugar
over the pie.
(4) Butter a pie-dish and line it with a fine flaky crust ;
roll out a flat of paste large enough to cover the top of
the pie, and bake the crust in a brisk oven for a-quarter-
of-an-hour. Peel 21b. of very ripe Peaches and cut them
into slices, removing the stones ; put them in a basin
with 4 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar and 1 teacupful of
cream. When the crust is baked, put in the Peaches,
place the crust cover over them, and return to the oven for
five minutes. Stand the pie-dish on a flat dish, strew caster
sugar over the top of the pie, and serve either hot or cold.
Peach Pudding. — (1) Peel twelve ripe Peaches and cut
them in pieces, put them in a basin, sprinkle caster sugar
over, and let them stand for an hour. Put 1J pints of
milk in a double boiler. Before preparing the Peaches,
put loz. of gelatine or isinglass in 1 teacupful of milk
and let it soak for an hour. Stir four beaten eggs
with 2 table spoonfuls of caster sugar and the gelatine in
the milk when boiling, and continue stirring for four or
five minutes. Take the double boiler off the fire, and
mix with the custard 1 pinch of salt and 1 wineglassful
of madeira. Put the Peaches in a glass dish, and when
the custard has partly cooled, pour it over and leave
them for a few hours before serving. It is better if
possible to make this pudding the preceding day.
(2) Make a batter of 6oz. of flour, 1 saltspoonful of
salt mixed in it, six well-whisked eggs, lqt. of milk, and
loz. of butter warmed quite soft. Peel the Peaches but
do not stone them, and lay them close together in a
pudding-dish; when the oven is hot, stir into the batter
J teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda and 1 teaspoonful of
cream of tartar, pour it quickly into the dish over the
Peaches, and put it instantly into the oven and bake.
Serve sweet sauce with it.
(3) Peel and stone sufficient ripe Peaches to make lqt.
of pulp, masli them and put them in a lined saucepan
with Jib of butter and the Peach kernels. Mix 2oz. of
cornflour with Jib. of caster sugar, put it in with the
Peaches — continued.
Peaches, stir them over the fire for three or four minutes,
then take the saucepan off. Beat in with the Peaches
the yolks of eight eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, and J tea-
cupful of Peach brandy. Butter two shallow baking-
dishes, line them with pie-paste, pour in the Peach
preparation, about 1 Jin. thickness, and bake for twenty
minutes. Beat the whites of eight eggs with 6oz. of
caster sugar, spread it over the pudding, and serve.
(4) Put 2 gills of milk with 2oz. of butter into a sauce-
pan, and when they boil drop in Jib. of flour, and stir
immediately with a spatula as briskly as possible for two
minutes; remove the pan from the fire, add the yolks of
three eggs, and stir again vigorously for two minutes. Add
3oz. of powdered sugar, continue stirring, pour in 1 gill of
cold milk, and mix well. Beat to a stiff froth the whites
of the three eggs, and add them gradually to the prepara-
tion, mixing slowly for two minutes. Butter and sugar
a mould holding 3 pints, put a layer of the preparation
Jin. thick1' at the bottom ; have eight peeled and finely-
sliced Peaches, cover with 2oz. of them, then another layer
of the preparation, again the same quantity of Peaches,
and repeat twice more. Place the mould in a pan, fill it
to half the height of the mould with warm water, and
set it in the oven to steam for an hour. Remove, turn
it on a hot dish, and serve with the following sauce :
Pour into a saucepan 1 pint of cold water, add Jib. of
granulated sugar, and place the pan on a hot stove.
Dilute loz. of cornflour in a cup with 1 gill of cold water, and
when the water in the saucepan- is boiling, add the cornflour
to it, stirring well for two minutes with a whisk. Take it
from the fire, add immediately J gill .of kirschenwasser,
and mix again for one minute ; strain through a fine sieve
into a sauce-bowl, and serve very hot with the pudding.
(5) Italian. — Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin
with 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar and 1 teacupful of
boiling milk, whisk them all together, and add 1 tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice. For 1 pint of tinned Peaches
allow 1 breakfast-cupful of breadcrumbs. Put a layer of
the Peaches on a flat dish, cover with a layer of the
breadcrumbs, and proceed in this way until all are used,
then pour over a small quantity of the liquid mixture,
and let it absorb before pouring in more. When all the
liquid is used, place the pudding in a moderate oven and
bake for half-an-hour. Beat the whites of the two eggs
to a stitt' froth. When cooked, take the pudding out of
the oven, spread the frothed egg on the top, and over
that strew 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar. Put it in the
oven for five or six minutes to brown slightly, then take
it out, and serve at once.
Peaches-and-Rice Meringue. — Divide fifteen ripe Peaches
in two, remove the stones, and put the Peaches in boiling
water to loosen the skins ; drain and peel them ; put them
in a basin and cover with a syrup at 28 deg. ( sec Syrups).
Wash Jib. of rice and boil it for ten minutes; drain it,
put it in a stewpan with some cream, flavoured with
vanilla, and boil it, adding more cream when likely to
become too dry. When the rice is done and nearly cold,
dish it, dome shaped, in the centre of a dish, in layers,
alternating each layer with half of the Peaches. Coat
the rice with meringue, smooth the surface, then orna-
ment it with meringue squeezed through a pastry-bag.
Sprinkle a little caster sugar over the shape, and put it
in a slack oven to dry and lightly brown. Take the dish
out of the oven and put the rest of the Peaches round
the rice. Mix a little maraschino with the syrup, colour
it with a few drops of vegetable carmine, put it in a
sauceboat, and serve with the meringue.
Peach-and-Sago Pudding. — Put Jib. of sago into a pie-dish,
pour in 1 pint of cold water, and leave it to soak for three
hours. At the end of that time, skin and stone lqt. of
Peaches and stand them upright in the sago; strew 3oz.
of caster sugar on the top. Put the pudding in a
moderate oven and bake it for one hour. When cooked,
stand the pie-disli with the pudding on a flat dish, and
serve it while very hot.
Peach. Short-Cake. — Peel lqt. of ripe Peaches, cut them
into small pieces, mix with them 1 breakfast-cupful of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dc., referred to, see under their special heads.
138
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peaches — continued.
caster sugar, and set them in a cool place. Rub |lb. of
butter in fib. of flour, make a hollow in the centre, then
pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of ice water, and mix it up
soft. Sprinkle a little flour over a paste-board, and roll
the paste out on it, folding and rolling it out three or
four times to make it flaky ; gather the paste into a lump,
let it stand five minutes, then roll it out to about fin.
in thickness, and bake it on a baking-sheet. Split the
cake in two when baked, spread some of the Peaches and
sugar on the lower half, put the top on, the split side
upwards, and spread more Peaches and sugar over that;
put it on a dish, and serve with cream.
Peach Sponge. — Strain the juice from a tin of preserved
Peaches and pass the fruit through a fine hair sieve, then
beat it up with the juice and a small quantity of caster
sugar. Put loz. of isinglass in a basin with J pint of
cream, let it steep for some tune, then stand the basin
in a stewpan containing boiling water, and stir the con-
tents until the isinglass has dissolved. Mix the fruit
pulp with the cream and stir it, out of the water, until
nearly cold. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a stiff'
froth, stir them in with the cream, and pile it up high
in the centre of a glass dish. Select several small thickly -
berried sprays of holly, and brush each leaf carefully over
with a strong solution of gum Arabic, strew caster sugar
over, and leave them until dry. Arrange the sprays of
holly round the sponge, and serve.
Peach Spongeade. — Peel and stone sufficient ripe Peaches
to make If pints of pulp. Pass them through a fine hair
sieve, put it in a basin with the whites of six eggs, not
whipped, and If pints of syrup at 38 deg. (see Syrups) ;
pass the preparation through the fine hair sieve into the
freezer (see Ices), and work it till frozen. Mix 2 table-
spoonfuls of maraschino with a little syrup, then mix it
in gradually with the spongeade. Serve the spongeade in
ice-glasses.
Peach Sweetmeats. — Dissolve lib. of brown sugar in 1
pint of water and clarify it with an egg. Wipe 21b. of
Peaches, put them in a lined pan with the sugar and
boil, skimming off' the egg as it rises to the top. The
Peaches should not be peeled if done whole; but previously
put in a little boiling water and boiled, then taken out
and wiped dry.
Peach Syrup. — Select some perfectly ripe Peaches, split them
and remove the stones, then put them into a mortar and
pound. Keep the pulp for about twenty-four hours, in a
temperature between 70 and 80degs., stirring occasionally
and pressing it. Strain the juice from the pulp, leave it
for twelve hours, then weigh it, and for every pound of the
juice, mix in loz. of Cologne spirit or deodorized alcohol;
leave it for twelve horns longer, then filter the juice
through paper. For each pound of the filtered juice, use
1 lib. of preserving sugar, and put them together in a
syrup-boiler, stir them over the fire till on the point of
boiling. Remove the syrup from the fire, skim well,
and bottle it, first rinsing the bottles with a small quantity
of Cologne spirit.
Peach Tart. — (1) Line a pie-dish with puff paste, put twelve
half Peaches at the bottom, dust over with 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of caster sugar, pour over \ wineglassful of any
white -wine ; over this put six chopped apples, and 1 break-
fast-cupful of rich custard flavoured with noyau, cover
with more paste, put a piece of paper over that, and bake
in a moderate oven. When done, spread over the top with
two well-whipped whites of eggs, mixed with 1 table-
spoonful of caster sugar ; over this arrange preserved cherries
and imitation leaves cut out of angelica, arranging them
according to fancy. Place the pie in the oven for a few
minutes so as to set the egg, and it is then ready for
serving, or may be served cold.
(2) Wipe on a cloth eight or ten good-sized Peaches, cut
them into slices, put them in a basin with 4oz. of
powdered sugar, and let them remain for some time. Line
a pie-dish with paste, spread over a little apple preserve,
place the Peaches over it, moisten the edges of the tart
with beaten egg, put a rim of paste round, brush this over
with more egg, and bake in a moderate oven for about
Peaches — continued.
fifty minutes. Sprinkle over a little more sugar, glaze it
in the oven, spread over a little sweet jelly, and serve
hot or cold as desired.
Peach Tartlets.— (1) Sift lib. of flour through a fine sieve
on to a table, make a hollow in the centre, and put in
fib. of butter, broken in little bits, 2 table-spoonfuls of
caster sugar, 1 pinch of salt, the yolks of three eggs, and
a little water, and work them gradually together. Line a
dozen or more buttered tartlet -moulds with the prepared
paste, put a thin layer of apple marmalade on the bottom
of each and half fill them with rice boiled in milk ; cover
each with paper and bake in a moderate oven. When
baked, take the tartlets out of the oven and leave them
for ten minutes ; then spread in a layer of marmalade,
fill up the spaces with rice that has been boiled and mixed
with cream, and put half a preserved Peach on each round
side upward. Squeeze some meringue through a biscuit-
forcer in little beads between the paste and Peaches,
sprinkle caster sugar over, and put them in a slow oven for
ten or twelve minutes. Reduce the Peach syrup, take the
Fig. 185. Peach Tartlets.
tartlets out of the oven, dip a paste -brush in the syrup,
and brush the Peaches over with it. Arrange them in a
group on a dish covered with an ornamental dish-paper
(see Fig. 185), and serve.
(2) Take lib. of puff paste, roll it out 12in. long by 8in.
wide, cut out six pieces with a paste-cutter, and arrange them
neatly on six scalloped tart moulds, each 31in. wide. Take
each mould in the hand, and with the thumb press the
paste gently at the bottom and sides so as to give it the
perfect shape of the mould, but avoid pressing the paste
on the edge, so that in baking it will swell and rise.
Divide 3oz. of apple marmalade into six equal parts, and
fill the bottom of the tarts with it ; then wipe six good-
sized Peaches, peel and cut them into six pieces, arrange
them over the marmalade in the tarts, sprinkle over 2oz.
of powdered sugar, lay them on a baking-sheet, put them
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, draw them to the
door, and sprinkle the edges lightly with powdered sugar,
then leave them in the closed oven for two minutes to
allow the sugar to melt thoroughly. Remove them from the
fire, put in a cool place for twenty minutes, then spread evenly
over the Peaches l£oz. of apple jelly. Dress the tartlets
on a dish with a folded napkin, and serve.
(3) Peel and stone some ripe juicy Peaches. Cut them
into small pieces, dredge over sufficient powdered white
sugar to sweeten well, and let them stand till the juice
mns from them. Make some puff paste, line some medium-
sized patty-pans with it, bake them, and let them get
cold. Crack half the Peach stones, blanch the kernels,
and add them to the Peaches; put the Peaches over the
fire in a saucepan together with the sugar, the blanched
kernels, and their own juice, and let them stew till soft,
then take them from the fire and mash them. When
both fruit and pastry-shells are quite cold, mix some cream
with the stewed Peaches and fill the pastry -shells with
them. Dredge powdered white sugar over the tops, and
serve.
(4) Butter twelve tartlet-moulds and line them with
short paste. Boil some rice, mix some cream with it,
flavour with a few drops of essence of vanilla, and put a
layer of it in each of the moulds. Bake them, and when
done, take them out and fill them with the rice and cream.
Peel some Peaches, cut them in halves, and boil them in
a little syrup. Drain the Peaches, and put half a one on
each tartlet; boil the syrup till reduced, then mask the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
130
Peaches — continued.
Peaches with it. Crack the stones, blanch, and split the
kernels, put half a one on the top of each Peach, and
serve.
Peach Trifle. — Put the Peaches into a saucepan with plenty
of sugar and a small quantity of water, and stew them
over a gentle fire until quite tender. When ready, drain
the fruit and mb them through a fine hair sieve, then
beat the pulp up with the syrup. Cover the bottom of
a glass dish with slices of sponge cake, and moisten them
with a little sherry. Sweeten 1 pint of thick cream to
taste with caster sugar, flavour it with ratafia, and whip
it to a stiff froth, which skim off as it rises to the top,
and place on a fine sieve to drain. Spread the Peach
pulp over the cake, pile the cream on the top, and serve.
Peach Water Ice. — (1) Slice ten ripe Peaches, but do not
peel them, boil till soft in J pint of water, then rub them
through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the pulp 1 pint of
syrup, the strained juice of one lemon, three or four
drops of oil of almonds, and colour it with a little carmine
or cochineal. Put the preparation in the freezer ( see ICES),
turn it till frozen, then fill a plain mould with it, put
the lid on, and pack it in ice. When ready to serve,
turn the contents of the mould on to a fancy dish.
(2) Procure eight medium-sized ripe Peaches, wipe them,
cut them into halves, remove the stones, mash them
in a vessel with Mb. of powdered sugar, and squeeze in
the juice of three lemons ; mix well with the spatula for
two minutes, and pour in lqt. of cold water, mixing for
two minutes longer. Strain through a fine sieve into the
freezer, cover, and freeze. Serve on a cold dish with a
folded napkin.
Pickled Peaches. — (1) Allow to 1 41b. of Peaches, weighed
after peeling, 2qts. of vinegar and 61b. of brown sugar.
Mix together in a plate or saucer 1 table-spoonful of
blades of mace, 2oz. of stick cinnamon broken up into
small pieces, and 1 teaspoonful of cloves. Lay at the
bottom of a 2gall. jar about lqt. of the Peaches, cover
with sugar, and sprinkle over them a portion of the mixed
spices. Then lay in more Peaches, covering them as
before with sugar, and sprinkling in some of the mixed
spice. Proceed in this manner till the jar is full, or till
all the Peaches, sugar, and spice are in. Then pour in the
vinegar, put a plate or saucer over the fruit to keep it
well under the vinegar, tie a cloth tight over the top of
the jar, and set it over the fire in a saucepan half full of
cold water. Let the water boil till the Peaches are soft
enough to pierce with a straw.
(2) Take 1 peck of common Peaches, and, without peel-
ing them, put them into a jar with a wide mouth or into
a bowl. Place over the fire lqt. of red or white vinegar,
41b. of sugar, either loaf or moist will do, loz. of cloves,
and loz. of stick cinnamon. Let these simmer gently for
half-an-hour, and then pour this syrup over the Peaches.
Lay something over them sufficiently heavy to keep them
down in the syrup, and let them stand for three days.
Put fruit and syrup together into a preserving-pan, and
let it boil till the Peaches are soft, then lift them out
of the syrup carefully and put them into jars. Let the
syrup boil fast until it thickens, and when sufficiently
thick pour it over the Peaches in the jars, putting some
of the spice into each jar. Tie the jars down airtight,
and the pickle will keep for twelve months. It is very
nice with cold meat.
(3) Choose perfectly sound Peaches of medium-size and
brush them all over with a soft brush. Boil together
6qts. of water and 1 pint of coarse salt, and skim it
until clear ; then cool it. The quantity may be increased
or diminished to suit the quantity of Peaches, enough
being used to cover them ; but this proportion of salt
and water must be observed. When the brine is
cold, put the Peaches into it and let them stand for
forty-eight hours ; then rinse them in cold water, dry them
on a soft towel, and stick half-a-dozen cloves in each one.
Boil and skim till clear as much vinegar as will well
cover the Peaches (the quantity may be gauged by
measuring the brine), allowing for each quart of vinegar
four blades of mace and Joz. of stick cinnamon. When
Peaches — continued.
the vinegar has boiled for about fifteen minutes, put in
the Peaches and remove the preserving-pan containing
them to the back of the fire, where its contents will not
boil. Let the Peaches stand in the hot vinegar for five
minutes, and then put both Peaches and vinegar at once
into glass jars and seal them airtight.
(4) Get the Peaches when they are fully grown and
just before they begin to turn ripe ; they must not be in
the least bit bruised. Put the Peaches in a brine strong
enough to bear an egg, place a thin board over them to
keep them under water, and let them stand for three
days. Take the Peaches out, wipe them with a soft
cloth, and lay them in a glass jar. Fill the jar with
vinegar, and for every gallon put in three heads of
garlic, plenty of ginger, cut fine, and Joz. of mace, cloves,
and nutmeg; put a bladder over the jar, and then a
leather, and tie it closely round. At the end of three
months the Peaches will be fit for use.
(5) Peaches for yellow pickle must lie for three days in
salt and water; they will then be soft enough for the
down to be nibbed off and for the stones to be taken out,
which should be done very carefully. Keep the slice cut
from the bottom in removing the stone. Stuff the cavity
made by the removal of the stone with a paste composed of
Jib. of white ginger, soaked in salt water till soft, Jib. of
horseradish, scraped and soaked for twelve hours, J pint of
garlic, soaked and dried, J pint of onions, chopped small,
loz. of long pepper, dried and salted, Joz. of common
black pepper, 1 table -spoonful of mace, 1 table-spoonful of
cloves, loz. of celery-seed, 2oz. of black mustard-seed, 2oz.
of white mustard-seed, and a little turmeric pounded to
powder and mixed with perfectly fresh butter or olive-oil.
Sew the piece cut from the bottom of the Peach on again.
Put the Peach mangoes into a jar and cover them with
vinegar, then tie them down.
(6) Canadian. — Put 11 pecks of Peaches that have not
been peeled into a large stone or earthenware jar. Put 3
pints of white vinegar into a lined pan with 61b. of coarsely-
crushed loaf sugar and ljoz. each of stick cinnamon and
whole cloves ; boil the mixture for about forty minutes,
then pour it, while boiling, over the Peaches. Press the
Peaches well under the syrup and let them steep in it for three
or four days. Next put them with their syrup into a pre-
serving-pan and boil them gently until soft. Lay the
Peaches carefully into jars, and continue to boil the syrup
until thickly reduced, then pour it over the Peaches and
leave them until cold. Cover the jars with parchment and
tie them down securely. This is a very good relish for
cold meats and will keep good for a year or more.
(7) American. — These are styled pickled Peach mangoes.
Take large-sized black Georgia Peaches, full grown, but
not at all soft. Cover them with brine salt enough for a
fresh egg to float in, and let them remain in it for a week.
Take them out, then wipe them dry, and very carefully
take the stones out. Have a paste ready, made of 5 table-
spoonfuls of ground mustard, Jib. of chopped onion, Jib.
of white mustard-seed, Jib. of black mustard-seed, Jib. of
long pepper, 4 table-spoonfuls of black pepper, loz. of mace,
Joz. of cloves, and Jib. of horseradish, all pounded together
and mixed with olive-oil. First rub the inside of each
Peach with 1 teaspoonful of celery-seed, then stuff into each
as much of the paste as it will hold, and sew it up with
strong linen thread or fine twine. Put over the fire lgall.
of vinegar with lib. of brown sugar and a pod of red
pepper cut in slices, or 1 teaspoonful of cayenne in it, let
it come to a boil, then take it off. Put the Peaches into
jars and pour this vinegar over them. When perfectly cold
tie the jars down closely.
Pickled Stuffed Peaches. — Choose fresh sound Peaches,
brush them with a soft brush, and lay them in a cold
brine for three days. Then remove them from the brine,
cut a piece out of the top of each one, and take out the
stone without enlarging the hole. For two dozen large
Peaches, mix together 21b. of brown sugar, one onion, and
a clove of garlic, chopped fine, 4oz. each of grated horse-
radish and white mustard-seed, loz. of powdered cinnamon,
and Joz. each of ground cloves, mace, and turmeric. Use
sufficient salad-oil to moisten these ingredients. Fill the
for details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
140
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peaches — continued.
Peaches with them, close the cut with a piece of Peach,
and either sew or tie it in place. Put the stuffed Peaches
into glass jars, cover them with cold vinegar, pour 2 table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil in each jar, and seal them.
Preserved Peaches. — (1) Take some large juicy Peaches,
peel, and quarter them. Crack half the stones and blanch
the kernels. Weigh the Peaches, lay them in a deep
dish, mixing with them the blanched kernels and lib. of
powdered white sugar to every pound of Peaches ; cover and
let them remain all night. Next day put Peaches, kernels,
sugar, and any juice that has run from them into a pre-
serving-pan and boil them till they look clear and are
quite soft, skimming off’ all scum as it rises. When the
fruit is soft and looks clear take the pan from the fire,
let it cool a little, and then put the preserve into jars.
When quite cold lay a piece of white paper dipped in brandy
on top of the preserve in each jar, and cover the jars
airtight.
(2) Mix together an equal quantity of honey and spring
water, beat well, and put it into an earthenware vessel.
Place some freshly-gathered Peaches in and cover them
closely. Wash the fruit when taken out in cold water,
and it is fit for immediate use.
(3) Canadian. — Make a sufficient quantity of thin syrup
(allowing Jib of coarsely crushed loaf sugar to every pint
of water) to cover the fruit well. Peel the Peaches and
drop them carefully into the boiling syrup. Boil them
for ten minutes, then take them out, a few at a time,
and put them into wide-mouthed bottles or jars. When
the jars are full, pour in a sufficient quantity of the
syrup to cover the fruit, and, should any air bubbles have
formed on the top, remove them with the handle of a
spoon. Cover the jars immediately with rounds of white
paper, three thick, pasting each round down separately
with boiled flour-and-water paste, and stow them away
in a dry store-cupboard.
Stewed Peaches. — (1) Peel and cut into quarters ten
medium-sized ripe Peaches, removing the stones, put them
into a saucepan with I pint of cold water, and add Jib
of granulated sugar. Place the pan on the stove, and
when boiling skim well ; cook for five minutes, meanwhile
stirring slowly from the bottom, to avoid mashing the
fruit ; remove from the fire, and immediately add 1 gill of
kirschenwasser, mixing well together for about half a
minute. Pour the preparation into a bowl, let it get cool,
turn it out on to a dish, and serve.
(2) To lib. of loaf sugar allow J pint of sherry, madeira,
or marsala wine. Put the wine and sugar into a pre-
serving-pan on the stove and let it boil slowly, removing
the scum as it rises. Skin the Peaches, cut them into
halves, and lay them in cold water as they are done to
keep their colour. When the syrup is clear, put in as
many Peaches as will boil without crowding, let them boil
gently till they begin to look clear, then take them care-
fully out of the syrup without breaking, and put them
into glass jars, if to be kept, or if for immediate use, into
glass dishes. Continue cooking the Peaches, a few at a
time, till the syrup is reduced to f pint ; boil this till it
is reduced to J pint and pour it over the Peaches. If
they are not for immediate use be careful when they are
cold to cover the jars airtight.
Stewed Peaches a la Conde. — (1) Wipe the Peaches, put
them in a preserving-pan with some clarified sugar, and
stew them. Prepare a croustade of rice, bake it, and
when done turn it out on to a hot dish ; ornament it with
dried cherries and strips of angelica, and put the stewed
Peaches round it; make a sauce with apricot marmalade
and madeira in equal parts, and pour it over.
(2) Split twelve Peaches into halves, take out the stones,
put them in boiling syrup for a few minutes, then drain
and take off the skins. Mix 1 teacupful of cornflour with
3oz. of crushed loaf sugar, 1J pints of milk, and a stick
of vanilla; stir it over the fire till a thick paste; spread
half of the paste on a dish, and when cold shape it into
croquettes the size of a cork ; dip them in beaten egg
and breadcrumb them. Prepare a savarine socle and put
it on a dish. Fry the croquettes in boiling butter, drain
Peaches — continued.
them, and garnish round the socle with them ; arrange
the Peaches in two circles on the socle; stir some hot
cream in with the remainder of the paste till it becomes
thick, then put it in the circle of Peaches; reduce the
syrup, pour it over them, and serve.
FEARS (Fr. Poires ; Ger. Birnen ; It at. Pere ; Sp.
Peras). — The tree that bears this fruit (Pyrus communis)
is of the same tribe as the apple, and is a native of Europe,
Circassia, Central Asia, and the
north of China ; but it is not met
with in Southern India. Lindley,
in the “ Treasury of Botany,” in-
forms us that from the Wild
Pear have arisen improved varie-
ties in different countries, which
instead of being hard and gritty,
as the earlier cultivated sorts
generally were, become at matu-
rity as melting as a Peach. Many
of the French Pears, raised up-
wards of two centuries ago, are
no longer reckoned worthy of
cultivation. A collection of them,
consisting of fifty sorts, existed
at Chelsea 150 years ago, and are
figured in an early volume of the
“ Transactions ” of the Horticul-
tural Society. Most of the kinds
imported from France have been
superseded by Belgian varieties,
which have proved in general of
better quality, and more suitable
for the climate of England. Some
of these improved varieties, only
known comparatively recently in this country, existed in
the latter part of the last century, chiefly in the gardens
attached to numerous religious establishments in Belgium ;
and it was only after the close of the war in 1815 that they
were obtained in England and other countries. The
varieties of Pears are now very numerous. After
excluding a vast number of worthless kinds, up-
ward of a thousand of excellent quality exist in some
collections. The following are of established merit :
Passe Colmar, Glou Morceau, Winter Nelis, Beurre Bose
(see Fig. 186), Thompson’s, Louise Bonne, Autumn
Bergamot (see Fig. 187), Jargonel, Fondante d’Automne,
Fig. 187. Autumn Bergamot Pear.
Comte de Lamy, Passe Crassane (see Fig. 188), Easter
Beurre Bergamotte d’Esperen, Williams’ Bon Chretien
(see Fig. 189), Josephine de Marines, Easter Beurre (see
Fig. 190), Uvedale’s St. Germain (see Fig. 191), Beurre
Sterckmans (see Fig. 192), and Beurre Ranee. Mr.
Knight, when president of the Horticultural Society,
devoted great attention to crossing and raising new Pears
from seed. A considerable number of those which he
obtained were very good ; but perhaps the best is Knight’s
Monarch. Besides its use for dessert, the Pear is employed
Fig. 186.
Beurre Bose Pear.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
141
Fears — continued.
for stewing, baking, compotes, and for making of perry.
The latter is described under its own beading.
Baked Pears. — (1) Peel, core, and cut in halves twelve
large Pears, put them into a pan with two dozen cloves,
Fig. 188. Passe Crassane Pear.
lib. of sugar, and nearly enough water to cover them.
Bake them in a moderate oven till tender, keeping the pan
covered ; then put them over a slow fire, and let them stew
gently. Grate a little lemon-peel over them, and add
more sugar if it is required.
Fig. 189. Williams’ Bon Chretien Pear.
(2) Peel a dozen Pears and cut them in halves. Cut a
lemon in thin slices, picking out the pips. Lay the Pears
in an earthen jar in layers, covering each layer with
sugar and some slices of the lemon, and putting in a
Fig, 190. Easter Beurre Pear.
clove here and there. When all are in, pour over sufficient
water to cover the Pears completely, set the jar in a
moderate oven, and bake for five hours.
Fears — continued.
(3) Peel 2qts. of hard Pears, core and cut them in
quarters, and put them in a deep pie-disli, with 1 break-
fast-cupful of moist sugar and a little water ; cover them,
and bake in a moderate oven for several hours. Pears
cooked in this way will keep for an indefinite time if
put in jars and sealed down.
Bavaroise of Fears. — Peel and core some moderately large
Pears, slice them into a preserving-pan, and squeeze in
the juice of two lemons and the thinly- pared rind of one.
Blanch about seventeen or nineteen bitter almonds, chop
them finely, put them in the pan with Jib. of loaf sugar
and loz. of dissolved isinglass, place the pan over a
moderate fire, and stew the Pears till tender. Rub the
Pears through a fine hair sieve into a basin, stand them
on ice, and stir them till cold. Mix 1 pint of welbwhipped
cream in with the Pears, pour the mixture into a mould,
cover it, and pack it in ice. When set, dip the mould in
tepid water, wipe it, turn the contents out on to a fancy
dish, and serve.
Fig. 192. Beurre Sterckmans Pear.
Candied Knots of Pear Paste. — Boil 14oz. of sugar to the
ball degree (see Sugar-boiling), then mix with it lib.
of Pear-pulp, colour it a delicate pink with a few drops
of prepared cochineal, and boil it till reduced to a stiff
consistency. Pour the paste out on a baking-sheet, level
it off, and dry it for four or five hours in a screen ; at
the end of that time, turn it, and dry for an hour
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
142
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
fears — continued.
longer. When quite cold, cut the paste into strips about
■gin. thick and 6in. long. Tie the strips into knots, re-
sembling the figure of 8, place the knots on wire trays,
and put them for another hour in the screen.
Candied Pears. — (1) Peel and core some Pears, and let
them simmer in syrup with a squeeze of lemon-juice in it
for ten minutes ; turn the Pears out, pour the syrup over
them, cover the basin, and leave them till the next day.
Strain the syrup off the Pears, boil it up again, then pour
it over the Pears. Repeat this operation the two follow-
ing days, giving in all four syrapings. Drain the Pears
on a cane sieve, then, when quite free from moisture,
put them a little apart from each other on wire trays,
rest them on dishes, and put them in a screen at a slow
heat to dry them. Take the Pears off the trays when
cold, and dry and pack them in boxes lined with white
paper.
(2) Put the Pears just as they are into boiling water,
and leave them till soft; then take them out, peel them
carefully, put them on a strainer, and catch the juice.
Place the Pears in the oven, heated to the ordinary tem-
perature for bread, and leave them there for three or four
hours. When taken out and cold, press the Pears flat,
plunge them into their own juice, and pack them in stone
jars. Many uses can be found for Pears prepared in tliis
way, and many a tasty supper-dish can be put on the table
with a few minutes’ notice when the dried Pears are in
the store-room ready to be worked up.
Candied Pear Paste. — Boil some Pear marmalade till greatly
reduced in quantity. Colour half of it with a few drops
of prepared cochineal, turn each half on to a clean plate,
and leave them till they are cold. With some tin -cutters
cut the paste into squares, diamonds, ovals, leaves, rings,
&c. ; dip each with a fork in caramelled syrup, place them
out of hand on a trellised wire drainer, and leave them till
dry.
Compote of Pears. — (1) Cut four large baking Pears into
six pieces each lengthwise, but keeping one whole half
for the centre of the compote ; pare and core the pieces
of Pears and put them in a lined pan with some 16deg.
syrup ( see Syrup), 1 teaspoonful of prepared cochineal, and
a little lemon-peel. Boil them, and when done, drain,
and arrange the quarters in a compote dish, putting
the half pear in the centre. Boil the syrup till reduced
to 30 deg., pour it over the Pears when cold, and serve.
Compote of Pears la Princesse. — Use nine large Pears,
as near one size as possible. Scrape the stalks, turn the
Pears spirally from head to stalk, put them in a preserving-
pan with a little syrup, and let them simmer till tender, but
not too soft. A little lemon-juice squeezed in the water
will keep the Pears white. When done, remove the pan
off the fire and leave them till cold in the syrup. Cut
off the ends of the Pears so as to leave about Jin. surface
in diameter , at the stalk end. Cut some rings of angelica
the same diameter as the cut part of the Pears, and put
one on each. Pass some strawberries or cherries through
hot syrup, then place one in each of the rings. Cut some
strips of angelica and ran them through the cherry and
angelica rings to imitate the stalks of the Pears. Arrange
them in a compote dish, pour some syrup over them, and
serve.
Compote of Pears a la Victoria. — Peel seven Pears and core
them through the thick ends lial f-way down the fruit ; turn
them spirally, and let them simmer in syrup delicately
coloured with a little prepared cochineal. Drain the Pears
on a cloth when done, fill the interiors with strawberry
jam, put a ring of angelica on the surface of each Pear,
and put a mirabelle plum in each ring, previously passing
them through a little hot syrup. Arrange the Pears in a
compote dish in an upright position, flavour the syrup with
vanilla, pour it round the Pears, and serve. The rings are
cut with two different vegetable cutters, cutting the out-
side with the large cutter first.
Compote of Pears a la Zing’ara. — Peel and core some
Pears, cut them into thick slices, and let them simmer in
syrup ; when tender glaze the Pears in their own syrup
Fears — continued.
Cut three, oranges in slices, and remove the rind and pips,
pour some boiling syrup over them and leave them to steep
in it for 1 hour. Arrange the slices of orange and Pear
alternately, leaning against each other in the same manner
as cutlets are dished ; build up the compote three tiers in
elevation, and ornament them tastefully with angelica on
the pieces of orange and currant jelly or damson cheese
on the Pears. Flavour the syrup with brandy, pour it
round them, and serve.
Crisped Pears. — Peel and core some Pears (those that
easily cook soft are the best), cut them into halves if large,
and steep them for several hours in a syrup well flavoured
with lemon. Take the Pears out, roll them in flour, and
fry them in boiling lard. Drain, put them on a hot dish,
and serve with a sweet sauce.
Pear Charlotte. — (1) Cut some thin slices of stale bread,
without the crust, and cut out a round with a ljin. in
diameter tin-cutter, then cut some heart-shaped pieces of
bread, and dip them and the round piece in warmed
butter. Put the latter at the bottom of a plain round
cliarlotte-mould, arrange the heart-shaped pieces overlapping
each other round it, cut the slices of bread into strips ljin.
wide and of the height of the mould, dip them in butter,
and stand them all round the mould, also overlapping
each other. Pare and core fifteen Bon Chretien Pears,
cut them in quarters, put them in a saute -pan with a
little butter and vanilla sugar, and fry them. Put the
Pears in the mould when cooked, and brown the charlotte
in the oven. Turn the charlotte out on to a hot dish,
mask it over with reduced apricot jam, and serve.
(2) Peel and core a dozen good-cooking Pears, cut
them into several pieces lengthwise, and put them in a
flat stewpan with a little warmed butter and half a stick
of vanilla ; toss them over the fire for a few minutes to
cook them slightly, then sift in a little caster sugar, and
finish cooking till their moisture is reduced. Drain the
Pears, mask them with a little apricot marmalade, and
leave them till cool. Put Jib of butter in a saucepan
and melt it, cut some thin slices of household bread, and
shape the pieces like a longish triangle, the long side of
which should be exactly half the diameter of the mould,
slightly rounding the shorter side of the triangles ; dip
them one at a time in the melted butter, and arrange
then rosette fashion at the bottom of a charlotte -mould
with the pointed ends towards the centre. Cut some
strips, lin. wide, and the same height as the mould, off some
slices of household bread, dip them in the warmed butter,
and range them like horses in a stable against the sides
of the mould, and resting on the bread at the bottom.
Warm the Pears and fill the charlotte with them; dip
some broad slices of bread in the butter, lay them on the
top, put the mould in the oven, and bake for twenty-five-
minutes. Turn tlie charlotte out of the mould on to a
hot dish, sift caster sugar over it, and serve quickly.
(3) German. — Peel and core six Pears, mince them, and
put them in a flat stewpan with a very little water and 1
teacupful of caster sugar; add a little lemon-peel, put the
cover on the stewpan, and boil the Pears quickly for a
few minutes to reduce their moisture without dissolving
the Pears. Move the pan off the fire, take out the lemon-
peel, and stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of apricot marmalade.
Butter a charlotte-mould and line it with brioche paste ;
fill the mould with the Pears when cool, and put a round
of the same paste on the top, trimming and pressing it
round the edges. Put the charlotte in a moderate oven
and bake for thirty-five minutes, turn it on to a hot dish,
mix a little apricot marmalade with some light syrup and
1 teacupful of rum, pour it over the charlotte, and serve.
Pear-Cream Ice. — Peel twelve mellow Pears, core and cut
them in quarters, pass them through a fine hair sieve
with 1 pint of cream, sweeten to taste with caster sugar,
and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Turn the preparation
into a freezing-pot, working it from the sides to the middle
as it freezes. When frozen, put the cream in an ice mould,
cover, and pack it in ice. When ready to serve, turn
the contents of the mould on to a fancy dish.
For details respecting Culinary Processes. Utensils,* Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
143
Pears— continued.
Pear Drops. — Put the required quantity of crushed loaf-
sugar in a preserving-pan, using enough water to make
it drop off the spoon without adhering to it; flavour with
essence of jargonel Pear, colour it lightly with a little
prepared cochineal that has been finely ground and
moistened with a little water. Stir the sugar over the fire
with a spatula until it dissolves and makes a slight noise,
hut on no account should it boil ; take it off the fire when
on the point of boiling, continue stirring with the spatula
until it is sufficiently thick not to spread much when
dropped from the spoon, but remain rounded in form; if
too thin, more crushed loaf sugar may be added. Fill a
small drop-pan with the preparation, and drop it from the
lip on to a copper plate at regular intervals, separating
the drop of sugar from the lip of the pan with a piece of
straight wire. Leave the drops for an hour or so till
firm and dry, then detacli them from the sheet with a
thin knife, bottle them, and keep in a dry place.
Pear Dumplings. — Make a good pastry, and cut it into
pieces large enough to enclose a medium-size Pear; peel
some Pears, leaving them whole, and keeping the stem
intact; enclose them in pastry, brush them with beaten
egg, and bake them in a moderate oven. Serve the dump-
lings, either hot or cold, with powdered sugar or sauce.
Pear Flavour with Cream. — Mix 5oz. of caster sugar and
1 pinch of salt with 4oz. of flour; then stir in one whole
egg and the yolks of three ; add 3oz. of butter and a piece
of lemon-peel, and stir it over the fire till cooked but do
not let it boil ; then keep it at the side till ready to use.
Line a flawn-circle with short-paste, put some buttered
paper all round the inside, fill it with common flour, and
bake it. When baked, take the flawn out of the oven,
empty it, and turn it out of the mould ; nearly fill the
crust with the prepared cream; have some small Pears
cooked whole in syrup, colour them slightly with prepared
cochineal, and arrange them in an upright position on the
cream, pour a little of the syrup in which the Pears were
cooked over them, and serve.
Pear Flawn. — Prepare a good paste with Jib. of flour and
some butter, roll it out into a round about lOin. in
diameter, then gather it up about 2in. all round the edges,
which crimp and decorate with a wreath of paste leaves.
The edges of the flawn should be moistened with a little
water to make them stick. Peel some fine Pears, cut them
in halves lengthwise, and put them in a preserving- pan,
with some sugar, the juice of one or two lemons, and the
thinly-pared and shred rind of one lemon. Cook the Pears
slowly till tender, then leave them till cold. Bind a strip
of buttered paper round the flawn, fill it with the Pears
and their syrup, and bake for three-quarters-of-an-hour.
When cooked, take the paper oft' the flawn (see Fig. 193),
glaze it over with apricot marmalade, and serve it.
Pear Fritters. — Put as many good-cooking Pears as are
required for the dish, cut them into slices lengthwise,
cover with caster sugar, dip them in batter, plunge
them into boiling oil, and fry a delicate brown. Take
them out, drain, dust over again with sugar, place
them on a napkin over a dish, and serve with sweet or
wine sauce.
Pear Jam. — Peel some ripe Pears, cut them into quarters,
take out the cores, weigh them, and put them into an
earthenware jar, packing them closely. Put the jar into
a saucepan of water on the stove, cover the jar with a :
piece of strong paper tied over, and let the water round the '
Fears — continued.
jar boil till the fruit is soft enough to break ; then put
the same weight of sugar as there is fruit on the stove
with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of water to each pound of sugar,
and boil and skim till it is a clear syrup ; put the fruit
into it and stir till it boils, and boil for twenty minutes,
stirring all the time ; then let it get a little cool, put it into
jars, and when quite cold cover as for other marmalades.
Pear Jelly. — Select ripe juicy Pears and cut them into
quarters. Put them in a preserving-pan with 1 pint of
water for every 41b. of Pears. Place them over a slow
fire and boil until reduced to a pulp. Put the Pears
in a jelly-bag, which should be hung over a basin,
and let them drain for twelve or fourteen hours. At the
end of that time, squeeze the bag to obtain any juice
that has not run through into the basin, measure the
juice, and put it into the preserving-pan with 4oz. of loaf
sugar for every breakfast-cupful of it. Flavour with a
small quantity of lemon-juice, and boil it over a brisk
fire, stirring continually until reduced to a jelly. Turn
the jelly into small jars, leave it until cold, then put
a brandied paper on the top of each, and cover with
parchment, tying it down securely. Keep the jars in a
dry store cupboard for use.
Pears in a Jelly Border. — Peel some nice-sized ripe Pears,
cut them in halves length-wise, core and put them into
a preserving-pan, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and
add Jib. of preserving sugar ; stew the Pears n tlier quickly
till tender, then take them carefully out so as not to
break them, and lay them on a dish till cold. Flavour
lqt. of jelly with any liquor preferred ; stand a cylinder
mould, one not too deep must be used, on ice, pour in a
layer of the jelly Jin. thick, and leave it till set. Dress
the Pears round in a border, the reverse way, so that
when the mould is turned over they will be in the right
position, fill the mould up with jelly, and leave it till
cold and set. When ready to serve, dip the mould in
tepid water, wipe it, turn the contents out on to a
fancy dish, and fill the hollow in the centre with whipped red
jelly.
Pear Marmalade. — (1) Peel some ripe Pears, cut them
into quarters, core and weigh them, put them into a
preserving-pan, add sufficient water to cover, and bring
very slowly to the boil, and simmer till they are tender ;
then take them out of the water, put into the water
the cores and peel, boil for an hour, strain the water
off into a basin or jug, and allow to every half pound
of fruit, 1 breakfast-cupful of this water, and Jib. of sugar.
When the requisite quantity of water is measured, and
the sugar weighed, boil both together in the preserving-
pan, keeping it well skimmed ; try it now and then by
putting a little in a saucer to cool ; if it jellies slightly
as it cools, then stir the Pears into it, boil for five
minutes stirring all the tune, let it partly cool, then put
it into jars. When quite cold, cover with white paper
dipped in brandy, and fasten with paper dipped into
white of egg beaten up, but not to a froth.
(2) Peel and core 61b. of ripe cooking Pears, cut them
in slices, and put them in a preserving-pan with 1 pint
of water. Boil the Pears till thoroughly dissolved, keep-
ing the cover over the pan, then mix with them 41b. of
crushed loaf sugar, and stir it with a wooden spoon till
reduced to a stiff paste. Turn the marmalade into pots,
dip some rounds of paper in brandy, put one on each
jar, and tie them down with paper and string. This is
best done on the fol lowing day, or care must be taken
that the marmalade is first quite cold.
(3) Put 91b. of Pears in a saucepan over the fire in water,
and boil them till they begin to soften. Take them up, drain
them from the water, peel, quarter, and core them, and
throw each piece as it is done into a saucepan of cold
water. When all are in the saucepan, set it over the fire
till the Pears are soft. Then teke them from the fire,
and mb them through a sieve. Clarify 61b. of loaf sugar
and boil it to the thread (see Sugar-boiling). Put the
pulp of the Pears into a preserving-pan, pour the boiling
sugar over it, set it over the fire, and keep stirring
till the marmalade is of the proper thickness. Take it
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
144
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fears — continued.
from the fire and put it into pots, and when quite cold,
lay on top of each a piece of white paper dipped in
brandy, and cover the pots airtight.
Fear Paste Drops. — Peel and core sufficient Pears to make
lib. of pulp, put them in a lined pan, with \ pint of
cider or perry, and boil them to a pulp. Rub this through
a coarse hair sieve, and mix with it lib. of crushed loaf
sugar. Stir the pulp and sugar over the fire till reduced
to a stiff paste. Put this into a small round-bottomed sugar-
boiler with a pointed spout. Lay the paste out in drops
upon square sheets of polished tin, and dry them in the screen.
When dry, detach the drops from the sheets by the aid
of a thin knife. Keep them between sheets of paper in
closed boxes, and they are ready when wanted.
Fear Fie. — Peel and slice six medium-sized fine Pears,
place them into a basin with 3oz. of powdered loaf sugar,
put this over a pie-dish lined with paste, and cover over
with more paste, moistening the edges with beaten egg,
and pressing them down with the hand. _ Brash the surface
over with more beaten egg, put the pie in a moderate
oven, and bake for alrout fifty minutes. Remove it to
the oven door, sprinkle powdered loaf sugar over the top,
push it into the oven again for two minutes to melt the
sugar, put the pie on a fiat dish, and serve either hot or
cold.
Pear Preserve with Cream. — Peel and cut in halves
about six Pears, put them in a stewpan with an equal weight
of sugar, and a small quantity of water to prevent them
burning, and boil slowly until clear and tender, and
the moisture reduced to a jelly. When the Pears have
cooled a little, turn them on to a glass dish ; and when
quite cold, serve them with whipped cream.
Pear Puffs.— Peel and core five or six Pears, cut them into
small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with 1 table-
spoonful of cold water, the juice of half a lemon, and
1 \ table-spoonfuls of caster sugar. Put in also Jib. of
raisins, and stew the whole slowly for half-an-hour. When
cooked, turn the mixture on to a plate and leave it until
cold. Put ill), of flour and Jib. of butter on a paste-
board, and rub them together until quite smooth, then
mix in the yolk of an egg, and sufficient cold water to
knead it into a a slight paste. Dredge flour over the
paste board and roll the paste out on it to about the
thickness of lin., and divide it into pieces about 3in.
square. Beat the white of the egg lightly and brush it
round the edges of the paste with a paste-brush. Put an
equal quantity of the cold Pear mixture in the centre of
each of the pieces of paste, and fold the edges together ;
brush over each a little of the white of egg and dust
them over with a small quantity of caster sugar. Dredge
a baking-sheet lightly with flour, place the puffs on the
baking-sheet, leaving a short space between, put them
into a moderate oven and bake them for half-an-hour.
When cooked, arrange the puffs on a hot dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin, and serve them.
Pear Pulp for Ices. — Take off the peel from the required
quantity of Pears, cut them up into slices, remove the
cores, put them into a preserving-pan with a little water
and the strained juice of a lemon, set the pan on the fire,
and let it remain until the slices are quite soft. Take
them out carefully and drain, put them into a copper
pan, reduce them to a pulp over the fire, rub the pul])
through a coarse sieve, and mix in 3oz. of crushed loaf
sugar to each pound. Put the mixture into wide-mouthed
bottles, cork and tie down securely, place them in a deep
pan with hay between them to prevent breakage, pour in
water to half their height, and simmer gently to steam
the pulp for fifteen minutes. Remove the pan from the
fire, let the bottles cool in the water, take them out, seal
the corks, and put them in a cool place until wanted.
Pear Quenelles. — Peel five or six large Pears and cut them
into rather small pieces, throwing away the cores. Beat
four eggs with 2oz. of slightly-warmed butter, and mix
with them 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 teaspoonful of
grated lemon-peel, a small quantity of grated nutmeg or
cinnamon, and sugar to taste. Mix the Pears with the
Fears — continued.
other ingredients, and stir in sufficient grated breadcrumbs
to form a stiff mixture. Put a saucepan of water over
the fire, and when boiling, take up the mixture in table-
spoonfuls, and lay them in gently. Keep the quenelles
boiling slowly at the side of the fire for half-an-hour.
When cooked, drain and put them on a hot dish, strew
caster sugar and powdered cinnamon over them, and serve
with a sauceboatful of sweet milk sauce.
Fear-and-Quince Marmalade. — Peel and core twelve
juicy Pears and five ripe Quinces. Stew the parings and
cores in sufficient cold water to just cover them. When
they have stewed to pieces strain the liquor off, and when
it is quite cold slice the fruit, weigh it, and put it over
the fire in the liquor strained from the cores and parings,
bring it quickly to a boil, let it boil till thick and smooth,
and then stir in the strained juice of a lemon and a half,
and the sugar in the proportion of fib. of sugar to each
pound of sliced fruit. Let it boil steadily for an hour,
working it up and mashing the fruit with a wooden spoon
to a smooth jelly. When sufficiently boiled take the pan
from the fire, let it cool a little, and then put the mar-
malade into jars; when quite cold lay on top of the
marmalade in each jar a piece of white paper dipped in
brandy, and cover them down airtight.
Pear Salad. — (1) Peel and core some ripe Pears, cut them
in thin slices, and lay them in a glass dish; sprinkle
caster sugar over them, pour in a little brandy or ram,
and serve.
(2) Peel, core, and cut five large mellow Pears in slices,
put them into a glass bowl, cover them with caster sugar,
and squeeze the juice of one lemon over them. Keep
them in a cold place till ready to serve, then pour 1
wineglassful of kirschenwasser over, and shake them about
well to mix them.
Pear Soup. — (1) Peel about 21b. of large Pears, cut them
into thin slices, put them in a saucepan with a sliced
penny French roll, half-a-dozen cloves, and 3 pints of
water, and boil them gently until quite soft. Strain the
soup through a coarse sieve, return it to the saucepan,
flavour it with 1 teacupful of wine and the juice of one
lemon, and sweeten to taste with sugar. Boil the soup
up again, then pour it into a soup-tureen, and serve it
while very hot with a plate of sponge cake or macaroons.
(2) Remove the peel and cores from six large Pears, put
them into a saucepan with 6 break fast -cupfuls of rain
water and a roll cut into slices, also a few cloves, and
boil them until they are quite soft. Pass the whole
through a fine sieve into another saucepan, add sufficient
sugar to sweeten, 1 or 2 wineglassfuls of wine, and the
strained juice of a medium-sized lemon. This sweet soup
should be served in glasses with sponge or other cake.
Pear Tart. — (1) Core and peel a dozen or so cooking Pears,
fill up the cavity with sponge cake soaked in cowslip
wine, place them in a pie-dish, pour over a liqueur-glass-
ful of orange-flower water, sprinkle over a good supply of
caster sugar, about half-fill the dish with cold water,
cover over the top with puff paste, glaze the surface, and
bake in a moderate oven. This tart may be seived either
hot or cold at discretion.
(2) Peel and slice six medium-sized Pears, place them
in a basin with 3oz. of powdered loaf sugar, and mix
well. Line a pie-dish with paste, spread over 1 table-
spoonful of apple sauce, and arrange the slices of Pears
over this. Roll out 3oz. more of the paste to 2ft. in
length, fold it over to make a long narrow strip, and roll
it slightly until about 30in. long. Moisten the edges of
the pie with beaten egg, place the strip round, fastening
the ends together, one overlapping the other, glaze the
surface with beaten egg, put the pie in a moderate oven,
and bake for about fifty minutes. Bring the pie to the
oven door, sprinkle over powdered loaf sugar, return it
to the oven for two minutes to melt the sugar, cover over
evenly with about 2oz. of sweet jelly, and serve hot or
cold.
(3) Peel, core, and cut ten Pears in halves, put them
in a lined stewpan with lqt. of water and Jib. of crushed
loaf sugar, and simmer gently by the side of the fire till
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, ice., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
145
Fears — continued.
the Pears are tender. Fry some slices of apple in butter
and sugar. Line a buttered mould with puff paste, and
bake it. Put a layer of the apples at the bottom of the
paste, first turning it out of the mould, and put the Pears
on the top. Strain the syrup, .boil it till reduced to
32 deg., and pour it over the tart, which should be served
cold.
Fear Tartlets. — Roll out ilb. of puff paste, 12in. long by
8in. wide, cut it into six pieces with a cutter, arrange
them on six scalloped tart pans, 3iin. wide, and press down
the paste at the bottom and sides, so as to have the im-
pression of the moulds, but without touching the rim,
which will rise considerably when baked. Mask them
with 3oz. of apple marmalade, equally divided ; on top of
this put half a large Pear, dust them over with caster
sugar, put them on a baking-sheet, and bake in a
moderate oven for twenty minutes. Bring them to the
oven door, dust the edges over lightly with more powdered
sugar, melt this in the oven for about two minutes, take
them out, and let them cool for twenty minutes. Spread
over each a little apple jelly, turn them out carefully on
to a napkin spread over a dish, and serve.
Pear Timbale with Raisins. — Butter a timbale-mould and
line it with short-paste. Peel, core, and mince twelve
Pears, put them in a preserving- pan with a piece of
butter, and cook them over a slow fire till half-done. Put
in with the Pears a quarter of a stick of vanilla, 2
breakfast-cupfuls of picked Smyrna raisins previously
softened in warm water, 3 table-spoonfuls of apricot
marmalade, and a small quantity of caster sugar. When
done leave the Pears to cool. Dilute a little apricot
marmalade with kirsehenwasser. Fill the lined mould
with the Pears, put a flat of the same paste over it, and
bake it in a slack oven for three-quarters-of-an-hour.
When done, turn the timbale on a dish, sprinkle over some
chopped pistachios, pour over the apricot sauce, and serve.
Fear Vinegar. — Select small Pears of an equal size, all of
them having the stems on, and peel them thinly and
evenly. For every pound of Pears put in a saucepan J
pint of vinegar, Goz. of loaf sugar, a stick of cinnamon,
and eight or ten cloves. Boil the vinegar mixture for five
minutes, then put in the Pears, and let them simmer
until tender. The Pears must not be very soft, or they
will break. Place them on a sieve until well drained,
then put them carefully into jars. Boil the syrup until
thickly reduced, leave it until cold, then pour it over the
fruit.
Fear Water-Ice. — (1) Peel a few ripe Pears and grate them
into a kitchen basin ; mix with them ilb. of caster sugar,
the strained juice of two oranges and one lemon, a little
of the peel, and 2 table-spoonfuls of vanilla sugar. Leave
it for half-an-hour; then pass the preparation through a
fine hair sieve, mix a little cold water with it, and freeze
Fig. 194. Pear Water-ices.
it in the ice-box. When firm, take the ice up with a
large spoon, and pile it like a pyramid on a folded napkin.
Put some little fancy cakes round the dish, and serve.
(2) Fill some pear-shaped moulds with pear-water ice
(No. 1), coloured with infusion of saffron, and pack them in
ice and salt until set firm. Turn them out and with a fine
camel’s-hair brush ornament them artistically with dry
Fears — continued.
powrdered carmine on one side, giving them a slight shade.
Into the narrow end stick a real pear-stalk with an
artificial leaf attached, and into the thick end push a dried
currant to give the appearance of the eye of the Pear
(see Fig. 194). Put them into the ice-box until wanted, and
serve. To prepare these well great care is required.
Fickled Fears. — (1) Peel 61b. of Pears, stick 2 cloves in each,
put them in a lined preserving- pan, in which 31b. of crushed
loaf sugar and 1 pint of vinegar are boiling. Cook the fruit
till tender, then turn all into stone jars. AYlien cold, tie
them down.
(2) Select some sound Pears, not too ripe, peel them,
and leave them whole with their stems on. For 81b. of
fruit use lqt. of vinegar, 41b. of brown sugar and 1 tea-
cupful of mixed whole spices and a stick of cinnamon,
cassia buds, allspice, and cloves. Tie the spices in a
piece of muslin, and boil them with the vinegar and
sugar. When boiling, skim the liquor, put in the Pears, and
boil them till tender ; then take them out and put them
into stone jars. Boil the syrup five minutes longer, then
pour it over the fruit. On the following day, strain the
syrup off and boil it up again. Perform this operation
for three mornings, pouring the syrup over the fruit each
time, and keeping the spices in it. Tie the jars down
wdien the syrup is cold, and keep them in a dry store
cupboard.
Preserved Fears. — (1) Pears for preserving should be firm
and rather sour ; if they are small, they should he preserved
wdiole ; if medium-sized, cut into halves ; or if very large,
into quarters. Peel them with a silver knife, dropping each
Pear into a basin of cold water as soon as peeled to keep
the colour nice. When the Pears are all peeled, and if
necessary cut, weigh them, allowing an equal weight of
sugar ; put the fruit into a saucepan on the stove with
enough cold water to cover it completely, and let it boil
gently till soft enough to yield slightly to gentle pressing
with the fingers. While the Pears are in the saucepan
boiling, put the sugar into a preserving-pan, to each pound
of sugar adding 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold water, and to
every 5lb. or 61b. of the juice the rind of two thinly-pared
lemons, and 2oz. of green ginger- root scraped and scalded ;
boil the syrup, taking off the scum as it rises. When the
fruit is tender, put it into the preserving pan with the
syrup, and boil till the Pears look clear ; when they are
so, and the syrup has penetrated them, take the pan off
the fire, let the preserve cool in the syrup, and then put
into jars, which cork and fasten in such a way as to be
air-tight.
(2) Parboil a dozen large Pears ; as soon as they are
tender, take them out of the saucepan and lay them in
a pan of cold water. Peel them, cut them into halves,
core them, and put them into a syrup made of 3 pints of
water, 2ilb. of loaf sugar, ami a little thinly-pared lemon-
peel. Put into this with the Pears a little cochineal, bruised
and tied in a muslin bag. Cover the pan, and let the Pears
boil quickly in the syrup till they are a good colour and
quite tender.
(3) Peel one hundred medium-sized ripe Pears carefully,
keeping them in their original form, split them into halves,
and cut out the cores and seeds. Fill ten jars with them
and pour over 5qts. of syrup. Put on the covers very
tightly. Place them in a large saucepan, taking care that
they do not touch one another, and put a little hay or
straw between them. Fill the pan with cold water so as
to cover them, and boil for fifteen minutes. Take from
off the fire, stand the pan on a table, and with a towel
lift up the jars one by one, laying them carefully in a
dry but not cool place. Let them stand until cold, and
put them away until wanted for use.
(4) Peel and core some Pears, cut them in halves or
quarters according to the size, and put them for a few
minutes in acidulated water to preserve their whiteness.
Put the pieces of Pears in syrup (see Syrups), and let
them simmer till half-done ; then take the pan off the fire,
and leave the Pears till next day in the syrup. J>ain,
and put the Pears in wide-mouthed bottles. Bon the
syrup to the feather degree ( sec Sugar boiling), mix
VOL. II.
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L
146
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pears — continued.
Fears — continued.
with an equal proportion of pale brandy, and leave it
till nearly cold. When quite cold, pour the syrup and
brandy on the Pears, cork and tie bladders over the bottles,
and keep them in a cool store cupboard.
(5) If the Pears are not large, peel them whole, leaving
the stalks on and just scraping off the outside. Have
ready a lined pan containing cold water, slightly acidu-
lated with lemon-juice and a pinch of bruised alum, and
drop the Pears in it as they are done. Let the Pears
simmer till half done, but do not boil them. Refresh the
Pears in two separate cold waters, drain them on a sieve,
then put them carefully in some wide-mouthed bottles,
but do not press them down. Fill them up with syrup
boiled to 38 deg. (see Syrups), and slightly acidulated
with citric acid and alum. Cork and tie the bottles down,
stand them in a deep saucepan with water to half their
height, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. To keep the
bottles from breaking, a good plan is to put some straw or
hay between them, so that they cannot knock together.
The Pears should be kept in a dry store cupboard.
(6) Pare some Pears very thinly, cut them lengthwise
in halves, and remove the cores. Weigh them, and for
every pound allow fib. of loaf sugar that has been crushed
for preserving. Put the Pears and sugar, evenly propor-
tioned, into jars, and moisten with a small quantity of
water. Put into each jar a moderate quantity of lemon-
juice and thin strips of lemon-peel, stand the jars in a
saucepan of boiling water, and keep simmering gently
until the Pears are tender. When cooked, colour the
Pears with a few drops of cochineal, stand the jars in a
dry place, cover with a cloth to keep out the dust, and
leave them all night. On the following day cover the jars
with bladder, tie down securely, anil stow them away
in a dry store cupboard.
Stewed Pears.— (1) Cut some Pears lengthwise in halves
and remove the cores. Place them in a stewpan, the cut
side upwards; put in ill), of caster sugar, pour over them
\ pint of red wine and a sufficient quantity of cold water
to cover them. Add a few cloves and the thinly-pared
rind of a lemon, and stew them gently at the side of the
fire. When tender, arrange the Pears on a dish, strain
their syrup through a fine hair sieve over them, and serve.
(2) Wash the required quantity of dried Pears, remove
the stalks, and cut them each into four pieces across.
Arrange the Pears in a large stone jar, cover them with
hot water, put the lid on the jar, and leave them for
twelve or fourteen hours. At the end of that time, strain
some of the liquor off the Pears into a stewpan, sweeten
it to taste ■with caster sugar, put in about | table-spoon-
ful of cloves, and boil it for two or three minutes, then
take it off the fire, and leave till cold. Arrange the
Pears in a glass bowl, pass the liquid through a fine hair
sieve over them, put in five or six small lumps of ice,
and serve.
(3) Peel six Pears, cut them into quarters, and lay them
in a saucepan with 1 pint of cold water, adding |lb. of
granulated sugar. When the contents of the pan come
to a boil, skim well, and flavour with the juice of half
an orange or the same quantity of lemon, and 1 salt-
spoonful of ground cinnamon if desired. Cook for five
minutes longer, and with a spatula stir slowly from the
bottom to avoid mashing the Pears. Remove from the
fire, pour into a bowl, and cool thoroughly before serving.
(4) Select nice-cooking Pears of as near one size as
possible, peel them carefully, leaving the stalks on, and
scoop out the cores from the broad ends. Lay them
closely together in a lined stewpan, the stalks uppermost,
put in plenty of sugar, a stick of cinnamon, five or six
cloves, the juice of half a lemon, 1 wineglassful of port
wine, and sufficient water to reach to height. Cover the
stewpan with the lid, and stew the contents at the edge
of the fire until the Pears are tender. When cooked,
drain the Pears and arrange them carefully and prettily
in a glass dish. Mix a small quantity of arrowroot with
the syrup and boil until thickened, stirring at the same
tiraq, being very careful not to let it burn at all. When
ready, strain it, and leave tiil cold. Afterwards pour
the syrup over the Pears, and serve them.
Stewed. Fears with Rice. — (1) Peel and cut four large
Pears in halves, put them in a lined pan, with Jib. of
caster sugar and 1 pint of claret, and let them boil gently
till tender. Wash |lb. of rice and boil it in milk, sweet-
ening to taste. Turn the rice on to a hot dish, drain the
Pears, and arrange them on it. Reduce the cooking liquor
of the Pears to half its original quantity, then pour it
over the Pears, and serve either hot or cold.
(2) Peel four large cooking Pears, cut them in halves
and core them, put them in a stewpan with Jib. of loaf
sugar, a quarter of a stick of vanilla, and 3 pints of
water, and let them boil gently till cooked. Wash 6oz.
of rice, put it in a saucepan with I \ pints of milk, 4oz.
of caster sugar, and a quarter of a stick of vanilla, and
boil it gently for an hour. Put the rice when cooked on
a hot dish, drain the Pears, and arrange them on it ; boil
the syrup till reduced, then pour it over the Pears, and
serve.
(3) Peel and core fifteen Rousselet Pears, put them in a
preserving-pan with some syrup and a smali quantity of
prepared cochineal, and boil them till tender. Prepare a
rice croustade 2in. high and the same size as the dish
on which it is to be served. Wash \ pint of rice in two
or three waters, and boil it in lqt. of milk, adding sugar
to taste. When tender, turn it on to the croustade.
Drain the Pears, arrange them on the rice, ornament
them with preserved cherries and heart-shaped pieces of
candied angelica. Strain the syrup and boil it till reduced,
pour it over the Pears, and serve. Almost any stewed
fruit makes a nice dish if prepared as described above.
Stewed Pears in White Sauce. — Select small Pears as
nearly as possible of one size, peel them, put them in a
saucepan, cover them with a thin syrup, add the thinly-
pared rind of a lemon, and stew them gently until tender.
When cooked, arrange the Pears in a glass dish ; thicken
| pint of milk with potato flour, mix it with the syrup
in which the Pears were stewed, and strain it over the
fruit. Serve when cold.
Stuffed Pear.— Select a large beurre Pear, not too ripe,
and peel it, but do not remove the stalk. Cut the Pear
lengthwise about two-thirds of its height from the side
on which it is lying. Empty the thick part by means of
a vegetable spoon. Cook the pieces of Pear by boiling in
a little sugar and water, but keep them firm, then leave
them till cool in the syrup. Drain the Pear on a cloth.
Put a layer of cooked rice and cream on a dish, put the
thick part of the Pear on it, fill the hollow with a salpifon
of fruits thickened with a little apricot marmalade, put
the other piece of Pear on the top, and arrange a circle of
crystallized greengages round it (see Fig. 195). Reduce the
syrup, flavour with a little vanilla extract, and pour it when
cold over the Pear.
FEAR, PRICKLY. — See Prickly Pear.
PEARL-BARLEY— See Barley.
PEARL-MOSS . — Another name for Carrageen.
PEEL.— See Candied-Peel.
FEELING-.— Although this operation can scarcely
be regarded as one presenting any great difficulty, yet,
unless judiciously performed, it may cause great
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces , <kc., referred to, see under their special heads -
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
147
Peeling — continued.
waste. Apples, potatoes, and other thin-skinned fruit
and vegetables, require a very thin removal, and the
better to secure this a knife-blade fitted with a guard
is recommended ; but most kitchen-hands are content to
rely upon the dexterity of their fingers. A Peeling
machine has been invented, which answers admirably,
and is of much value when large quantities are included
in the operation. Special information concerning the
preparation of vegetables, &c., for use by Peeling is
given, when necessary, under the particular headings to
which the instruction refers.
PEGEE. — A water-bucket made by the natives of
Australia from the leaves of a Palm.
PELLOW, or POOLOO.— -See Pilau.
PEMBROKE PUDDING —See Puddings.
PEMMICAN.— This is the name given by North
American Indians to meat cut in thin slices, divested of
its fat, and dried in the sun. It is then pounded and
mixed with melted fat, and sometimes dried fruits, and
then compressed into cakes, or stored in bags. As it
contains much nourishment in a small compass, it is
greatly used by explorers and other travellers over the
American Continent. This word is sometimes spelt
Pemican.
PENELOPE PUDDING.— See Puddings.
PEPPER (Fr. Poivre ; Ger. Pfefer; Ital. Pepe; Sp.
Pimienta). — Kettner gives ns in his “ Book of the Table ”
the following interesting piece of information : “ Much
as we value Pepper, it is difficult to think of it as being
at one time in Europe so precious and so scarce that it
was as good as money. In Prance at that time, the taxes
might be paid in Pepper ; so also church dues and rents.
We have all heard of peppercorn rent. Pepper was in
fact cash ; and to pay in Pepper, in spice, or in specie — all
words meaning the same thing — became equivalent to
paying in cash. In token of which, to this day specie is
a common name for the hardest of hard cash — gold and
silver- — as distinct from paper money.”
What we term in our kitchens black Pepper is the
immature fruit or berry of the black Pepper vine (Piper
Fig. 196. Pepper-plant.
nigrum), an Oriental climbing shrub (see Fig. 196) which
is found growing wild in the East Indies, but cultivated in
other tropical climates ; but that which comes from
Malabar is held in highest esteem for the sake of the fruit.
Pepper — continued.
Peppercorns may produce either black Pepper, or white
Pepper. Black Pepper is the dried berry picked before it
is ripe; white Pepper is produced from the ripe berry,
which is red, the pulp and skin being removed and the
enclosed corn dried separately. Before the corns ai-e
ground they are known to cooks as mignonette Pepper,
the unground black Pepper maintaining the name which
should be common to both peppercorns.
Red Pepper, or cayenne, will be found described under
Capsicum. Long Pepper is composed of the immature
fruit (dried female spikes) of the long Pepper vine ( Chavica
Roxburghu). The spikes are about 11 in. in length, with an
indented surface, and are of a dark grey colour. In its
general properties it resembles black Pepper, but it is
less aromatic, though equally pungent. Elephant Pepper
is merely a larger variety of this species. The root and
stems, sliced and dried, form the “ pippula moola ” of the
East Indies.
In Cooley we find the following unsatisfactory state-
ment: “The ground black Pepper of the shops is uni-
versally adulterated ; in fact, the public taste and judg-
ment are so vitiated that the pm-e spice is unsaleable.
A most respectable London firm, on commencing business
supplied their customers with unadulterated ground
Pepper; but in three cases out of every four it was returned
on their hands and objected to, on account of its dark
colour and rich pungency, which had induced the belief
that it was sophisticated. The house alluded to was
therefore compelled by its customers to supply them with
an inferior but milder and paler article. The substances
employed to lower black Pepper are known in the trade as
—‘P.D.,’ ‘H.P.D.,’ and ‘ W.P.D.’ — abbreviations of ‘Pepper
' dust,’ ‘hot p.d.,’ ‘white p.d.’ The first is composed of the
faded leaves of autumn, dried and powdered; the second
the ground husks (hulls) of black mustard, obtained from
the mustard mill; and the third is common rice, finely
powdered. Equal parts of black peppercorns, H.P.D. ,
and W.P.D., form the very best ground Pepper sold. The
ordinary Pepper of the shops does not contain more than
’ tli to jrth of genuine Pepper, or 2oz. to 2ioz. in the lb.
Very recently ground oil-cake or linseed meal has been
employed as the adulteration, instead of the old ‘ P.D.’ ”
With such a record as the above it would certainly be
worth the cook’s while to use a mill and grind his own
Peppercorns. See Capsicum.
PEPPER-BOX (Fr. Poivrier; Ger. Pfeffer-buchse).
— The best kind of Pepper-box for kitchen use is one
made of tin with a rather large top, somewhat closely
perforated. The Pepper-caster is one of the cruet set.
A very ingenious mill has been invented by which the
peppercorns can be ground as used at table ; but
whilst deserving of every attention, it has not found
much favour as yet, probably owing to the extra
trouble entailed in its use.
PEPPER, JAMAICA.— -See Allspice.
PEPPERMINT.— The name of this plant is a com-
pound of the two words pepper and mint, the plant itself
being a variety (Mentha piperita) of the mint tribe. It
is occasionally found growing wild in this country, but is
more often cultivated for the sake of its volatile oil, which
is much used by confectioners for flavouring.
Extract of Peppermint for Flavouring. — 1 pint of
essence of Peppermint, added to h pint or 1 pint of alcohol
will give the extract ; or the essence may be used by
itself.
Peppermint Brandy. — To 40galls. of proof spirit add 4oz.
of essence of Peppermint, dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Colour with tlb. of powdered turmeric infused in lgall. of
spirit, 95 per cent. Use this infusion in such quantity
as to get the proper shade.
Peppermint Candy.— Put the required quantity of clarified
sugar into a sugar-boiler on the fire, and boil to the ball
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L
148
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Peppermint — con tinued.
degree (see Sugar boiling) ; add sufficient essence of
Peppermint to flavour, and with a spatula rub some of the
sugar against the sides of the pan until the sugar has
a white appearance. Have ready some well-oiled tins,
pour the candy into them, let it cool, and mark it with
a knife into squares ; when cold, break them where marked,
and put them away in boxes or tins.
Peppermint Candy Drops. — Boil 1 lb. of crushed loaf sugar
to the ball degree in just enough water to dissolve it ;
then put in a few drops of essence of Peppermint and a
few drops of acetic acid. Work the sugar with the back of
a spoon (a silver one is best) against the sides of the
boiler, to give it a granular appearance. Pour the sugar
at once into a shallow tin dish. When half-set, mark it
with the back of a knife into small tablets, so that when
quite set they can be easily snapped asunder. Previous to
pouring in tbe candy rub the tin over with oil of almonds.
Peppermint Cordial. — (1) Put 1 gall, of plain syrup at 45deg.
containing 61b. of sugar per gall, into a vessel that has a
tightly fitting lid, and add 1 drachm of Peppermint oil
and 10 minims of best crystallised carbolic acid. Set the
vessel with the lid on in such a position that it can be
shaken continually for an hour or so. Bottle the liquor
if bright; if it is not, filter it through a jelly-bag lined
with paper-pulp before bottling. If possible, the cordial
should go through the process of churning to mix thoroughly.
(‘2) Put Joz. of oil of Peppermint with 3 fluid ounces of
rectified spirits of wine into a bottle, cork it securely, and
shake it for some time. Have ready a cask that will just
contain 5 galls., pour in 14J pints of white and flavourless
proof spirit, add the oil of Peppermint, and shake well for
ten minutes or so ; add lOJlb. of best double refined lump
sugar dissolved in 7qts. of water (filtered rain), and shake
up for fifteen minutes longer ; add sullicient clear rain water
with joz. of alum dissolved in it to fill up the cask,
and shake well for fifteen minutes longer. Let it stand
for fourteen days with the cask bunged-up, and it will be
ready for use. Should it be too thick, add a little salt
of tartar dissolved in hot water, and leave it for a few
days before using.
Peppermint Drops. — (1) Pour over 21b. of the best sugar
J pint of cold water, and let it stand for half-an-hour ; put
it then over a moderate fire, and stir it till it nearly
boils. Remove it from the fire as it just comes to the
boil, add oil of Peppermint, and stir till the mixture is
quite smooth. Drop it in small drops on a smoothly-oiled
marble slab, or on oiled paper, and keep them in a warm
place till they are quite dry.
(2) Beat 6oz. of finely-powdered white sugar with the
whites of three eggs till quite smooth, add then 90 drops
of oil of Peppermint, and beat all well together. Drop it
in small drops on white paper, and dry them at a little
distance from the fire.
Peppermint Liqueur. — This is prepared in the same way
as Liqueur des Eveques (see Cordials and Liqueurs),
using 1 Jib. of bruised Peppermint leaves, 1 Joz. of ground
or crushed aniseed, 9Jqts. of spirits of wine, 3Jqts. of
capillaire, 3qts. of Peppermint water, and 4qts. of pure
water.
Peppermint Lozenges.— Put loz. of picked gum-dragon
into a jar with about J teacupful of tepid water, and leave
it to soak for six hours. When ready, work the gum on
a marble slab with the doubled fist until it becomes white
and elastic; then work in with it ljlb. of fine icing sugar,
and when quite smooth add 1 teaspoonful of essence of
Peppermint, and a few drops of thick wet cohalt blue ;
continue working the paste till it assumes a brilliant
whiteness. Sift some caster sugar over the slab, and roll
the paste out on it to nearly Jin. in thickness, using
if possible a ribbed rolling-pin ; then roll it again in cross
directions, so as to imprint on the surface a diamond
pattern. With a tin-cutter about Jin. in diameter stamp
out the lozenges ; sprinkle caster sugar over some baking-
sheets, and put on the lozenges as they are cut. Put the
sheets in the screen and leave them till the lozenges are
dry. Keep in well -stoppered glass bottles.
Peppermint — continued.
Peppermint Pastille Drops.— Put 3J table-spoonfuls of
coarsely-sifted sugar into a sugar-boiler with 4 drops of
essence of Peppermint and 1 table -spoonful of water ; place
the pan on the fire, and as soon as the contents begin to
dissolve, stir with a wooden spoon for a minute or two;
then take the pan off the fire. Drop the mixture in small
drops from the lip of the pan, using a curved piece of
wire to cut them off, and let them fall in rows on a sheet
of stiff paper ; leave them until firm, then turn the paper
of drops over, and brush the back of it with a brush that
has been dipped in water. When sufficiently moistened,
pass the blade of a knife between it and the drops, and
let them fall on to a sieve. Move the sieve backwards
and forwards over a very slow fire until they are thoroughly
dry. Pack the sweets in glass bottles, cork them tightly,
and keep them in a dry place.
Peppermint Stick Candy.— Mix together J pint of water,
21b. of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and
cook over a moderate fire till brittle. This may be ascer-
tained by putting a little into cold water. Wlien the
candy is brittle, stir into it twelve drops of oil of Pepper-
mint. Pour about 1 pint of the syrup, or rather less,
into a separate vessel, and mix with it about six drops
of cochineal. Pull the rest till it is white, and before
cutting it into sticks twist round it a small quantity of
the red candy.
Peppermint Syrup.— Put 3Mb. of crushed loaf sugar into
a sugar-boiler with lqt. of water and 1 loz. of" soluble
essence of Peppermint, and boil it for one minute.
PEPPER-POT. — The name given to a soup or stew
which is very highly esteemed in the West Indies. The
following receipts will be found to give an excellent
variety for its preparation :
(1) Partially boil 31b. or 4lb. of lean pork and cut it
into small slices ; put the pork into a saucepan with
a sufficient quantity of the water in which it was boiled
to cover it, and J pint of cassareep ; season to taste
with salt and peppercorns, and boil the whole gently for
several hours, taking care it does not burn. The meat
should be always well covered with the gravy.
(2) Put into a saucepan 31b. of beef, Jib. of lean ham,
two large potatoes peeled and sliced, a couple of onions
and a bunch of dried thyme, pour over them 4qts. of
water, and let all simmer gently till the liquor is reduced
to 3qts. Then strain through a colander, return the liquor
to the saucepan, and add to it a fowl, skinned and cut
into joints, 41b. of slices of pickled pork, some suet
dumplings about the size of walnuts, and the meat of a
lobster chopped small. When the fowl is cooked, add
J peck of boiled spinach that has been rubbed through a
sieve. Season the Pepper-Pot with cayenne pepper and
salt. Serve hot.
(3) Wash as much spinach as will fill a good-sized dish,
put it into a saucepan without any water, and let it boil ;
then drain off the liquor and chop the spinach fine.
Return the spinach with its liquor to the saucepan, add a
little water to it, one or two onions, a lettuce or a head
of endive, cut small, about lib. of potatoes, Jib. of bacon,
and any bones of roasted meat that may be at hand. Put
the saucepan over the fire. When it has boiled for an hour,
add a few cold boiled suet dumplings, and boil for twenty
minutes longer. Season with cayenne pepper, pick out the
bones, and serve.
(4) Put a shin of beef and a knuckle of veal into a
stock-pot, with a large slice of ham, cover over with cold
water, and bring it slowly to the boil. Skim well, and
simmer on the side of the fire for three hours, or until
the meat is tender. Strain off the liquor, return it to the
pot, and add six potatoes peeled and cut into small pieces,
two onions cut into slices, half a red pepper cut up, six
cloves, 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, summer savoury
and sweet basil mixed, a pinch of sweet marjoram, and a
bay-leaf. Cut the beef and veal into small pieces and
the ham into dice, put them into the pot, together with
Jib. of tender well-boiled tripe cut up into small pieces,
and boil up once more; add two dozen small dumplings
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
149
Pepper-Pot — continued.
made of flour, eggs, and milk or water, simmer gently for
fully lialf-an-hour, and serve as hot as possible.
(5) If in the winter time, such vegetables as beetroot
carrots, turnips, onions, and celery may be used ; but if in
the summer, French beans, cauliflowers, peas, lettuces, and
spinach, also onions. Prepare the vegetables and cut them
up into small pieces. Clean a fowl, disjoint it, cut the
carcass across into four pieces, and put them in a large
saucepan with the vegetables, about fib. or lib. of pickled
pork cut into pieces about 2in. square, and about 1 tea-
cupful of rice. Pour in 5 pints of water, and let the
whole boil gently at the side of the fire for three hours,
keeping it well skimmed. Pick the meat out of a lobster
or crab, and put it in with the above ingredients twenty
minutes before removing them from the fire. Mix 2
table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with a small quantity of
cold water, stir it into the hotch-potch, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and serve it very hot.
(6) Put 21b. of gravy beef into a saucepan with a bundle
of sweet herbs and 3qts. of cold water, and place it over
the fire until boiling ; then move it to the side and let
it simmer for three or four horn's, keeping it well skimmed,
When all the goodness is thoroughly extracted from the
meat, leave the liquor until cold and then free it of fat.
Pour the liquor into a saucepan, and place it over the fire
until hot. Pick the flesh out of a large crab, cut it into
small pieces, and put it into the soup with 4oz. of cold
boiled pickled pork cut into small pieces, and some boiled
and chopped spinach. Prepare a few small dumplings
with 2oz. of chopped beef-suet, flour, the beaten yolk of
one egg, and a small quantity of water to mix it into a
paste. Put the dumplings in the soup with the juice of
half a lemon, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Let it simmer gently for half-an-hour, stirring it occa-
sionally to keep it from burning. Turn the soup when
ready into a soup-tureen, and serve while very hot.
PEPPER PODS. — See Capsicums.
PERCH (Fr. Perche ; Ger. Barsch ; Ital. Berticlie ; Sp.
Pereas). — Tlie Perch ( Perea jiuviatilis) is found in most of
the rivers, canals, and lakes of Great Britain, and
numerous fish of the same tribe are found in various other
Fig. 197. Perch.
parts of Europe and also in America. The Thames Perch
is famous (see Fig. 197) ; but not so famous perhaps as is
the Giant Perch of Germany. This is known as the
Zander, is especially abundant in the Elbe, and is cooked
to perfection in Dresden. Prepared according to any of
the following receipts, the flesh of the Perch is delicate and
dainty. Perch are in season from the latter end of May to
the beginning of February, during which time their con-
dition may be judged by the rosy appearance of then- gills
and general rough appearance.
Boiled Perch. — (1) Clean and scale the fish, leaving the roe
and liver inside. Pour a small quantity of water in a
fish-kettle with a bunch of parsley, a lump of salt, and a
small quantity of pepper, and boil the water until the
parsley is soft ; then put in the fish with a lump of
butter, and boil it gently for ten or twelve minutes.
When cooked, take the fish gently out of the fish-kettle,
Perch — continued.
lay it on a hot dish, strain the cooking liquor over, and
serve it with Dutch sauce.
(2) Clean and scale the fish, then put it in a fish-
kettle with an onion, one bay-leaf, a small quantity of
pepper, and boiling water to cover it. Finely chop two
hard-boiled eggs and a few sprigs of parsley, and mix
with them nearly double their quantity of finely-grated
breadcrumb; season the mixture with grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper. When the fish are cooked, take them
out of the fish-kettle, being careful not to break them,
and slip them on to a hot dish; spread the egg-and-
breadcrumb mixture thickly over them, baste them with
a few table-spoonfuls of their cooking-liquor, also a few
table-spoonfuls of warmed butter, and serve.
(3) Scrape off the scales, remove the spines from the
back, and thoroughly clean and wash the Perch. Put
them in a fish-kettle, cover them with cold water, and
boil them very gently for twenty minutes or half-an-hour,
according to the size of the fish. Drain the fish, put
them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a
hot dish, and serve with a fish sauce.
(4) Scale and clean some large Perch and put them in
a saucepan; work a little flour with 1 1 table-spoonfuls of
butter, then put it in with the fish, adding also a bunch
of finely-chopped sweet herbs, two or three small onions,
and b pint of white wine. Let them simmer gently for
twenty minutes. Drain the Perch when sufficiently cooked,
put them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on
a hot dish, garnish round with fried parsley, and serve.
(5) Scale and clean the fish, leaving the milt and liver
inside ; put it in a fish-kettle with a small bunch of
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and a lump of butter.
Pour in a small quantity of boiling water, and boil gently
until it is cooked, which will take from ten to fifteen
minutes. Take the fish carefully out of the fish-kettle,
lay it on a hot dish, strain its cooking liquor over, and
serve.
(6) German Style. — Scale and clean the fish, put it
in a fish-kettle with an onion, a bay-leaf, and a small
quantity of water, season with pepper, and boil it until
tender. Grate about 1 breakfast-cupful of stale crumb
of bread, and mix with it two chopped hard-boiled eggs,
1 table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and season with
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. When the fish are
cooked, drain them carefully, put them on a hot dish,
cover them with the breadcrumb mixture, baste them
with 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of their cooking liquor, pour
about Jib. of warmed butter over them, and serve.
(7) Dutch Style. — Put 2qts. of water in a fish-kettle
with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of parsley, 1 teacupful
of vinegar, and 1 pinch of salt; when boiling, put in two
Perch that have been cleaned, but not scaled. Let them
simmer by the side of the fire for a-quarter-of-an-hour,
then drain them, and take off their skin and scales
together. Wash the Perch in their liquor, put them on a
hot dish, garnish with quarters of lemon and sprigs of
parsley, and serve them with a sauceboatful of butter
sauce, in which has been mixed a little chopped parsley
and lemon- juice.
Broiled Perch. — (1) Choose Perch of a moderate size, fresh
from the water; scale and clean them, and dry them in
Fig. 198. Broiled Perch.
a napkin. Melt a good quantity of butter with some
salt; let it be thick when it is cooled a little; dip tlie
Perch in it, and roll it about till the butter sticks well
to every part of it ; then set a gridiron over a very clear
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Joe., referred to, see under their special heads.
150
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Perch — continued.
and brisk fire, but let it stand at a very great height
above the fire, for the Perch must be cooked well before
it is brown. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, garnish
with quarters of lemons (see Fig. 198).
(2) Scale and clean the Perch, put them in a deep dish,
sprinkle in with them some pepper, salt, finely-minced
parsley, and sweet herbs ; pour a little olive oil over them,
and let them steep for several hours. When ready to
cook, dip the fish in beaten egg, sprinkle over them
finely-grated stale breadcrumbs and minced sweet herbs,
put them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire,
turning them so as to cook both sides equally. When
done and nicely browned, put the fish on a hot dish, on
which has been laid a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper; serve it with oiled butter in which has been
stirred a dash of vinegar.
(3) Clean the Perch through the gills, wash and dry
them, thinly lard the backs, and stuff them with a veal
stuffing with a little curry powder mixed in. Wrap
them separately in buttered paper, and grill them over a
clear fire. Serve on a hot dish with mango chutney and
cream sauce in a sauceboat.
(4) Clean the Perch carefully, grease a gridiron, and lay
them on it side by side. Place the gridiron over a clear
fire, and turn the Perch constantly until they are nicely
cooked. Melt about 6oz. of butter, beat it up with the
strained juice of a lemon, and season it to taste with salt
and pepper. When the fish are cooked, lay them on a
hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish-paper, garnish it with fried parsley,
and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Fried Perch. — (1) Scale, clean, and wash the Perch, dry
them thoroughly and flour them. Put some dripping in
a frying-pan, and when boiling put the fish in, and fry
them till nicely browned on both sides. Put them on a
folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful
of butter-sauce (see Sauces).
(2) Scrape off the scales and thoroughly clean the
Perch, egg them well, and roll them in plenty of bread-
crumbs. Put some lard or fat in a frying-pan, and when
boiling put the fish in and fry them till lightly and
equally browned. Drain the fish, and arrange them on a
folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish,
garnish with parsley, and serve with anchovy or butter-
sauce.
(3) Scale and clean two Perch, flour them, and season
with salt; put them in a frying-pan with some slices of
fat bacon, and fry them till nicely browned both sides.
Place them on a hot dish, garnish round with the bacon,
and serve with any fish sauce preferred.
(4) Choose large Perch for this; scale, wash, and dry
them, cut them deep into the sides and back, dredge them
with flour with a little salt in it, and fry them till they
are thoroughly done and perfectly brown. When the fish
is ready, make a sauce by melting in a saucepan 2oz. of
butter; put in some flour and brown it, some chives
and parsley, a few mushrooms, all shred fine, and add a
little boiling water. Lay the Perch into a small stewpan,
pour the sauce over them, and let them simmer in it two
or three minutes ; then take them out, and lay them on a
warm dish. Add to the sauce 2 table-spoonfuls of capers
cut small, thicken it up, and then pour it over the Perch.
There is no way in which they eat better than this, the
frying giving them a firmness and crispness. The soaking
in the sauce does not take this off, although it mellows
the flesh very finely, and gives the whole of the flavour
of the ingredients that are put in the sauce.
Mayonnaise of Perch. — Cut out the fillets of three or four
middle-sized Perch and season them with pepper and salt ;
butter the bottom of a flat stewpan, put the fillets in,
pour a little white wine over them, and boil them, keep-
ing them rather firm. Take them off the fire when done
and leave till cold ; then divide the fillets in two parts,
put them in a deep dish, sprinkle in some salt and
pepper, and pour some oil and vinegar over them ; let
them steep for an hour. Arrange the fillets in layers on
an aspic border, building them in a dome-like shape, and(
Perch — continued.
masking each layer with mayonnaise sauce. Cover the top
with mayonnaise sauce, and serve.
Perch a l’AHemande. — Scale and clean two moderately
large Perch and put them in a stewpan. Finely mince the
red part of a few carrots, some roots of parsley and celery,
put them in the st wpan with the fish, with a bunch of
parsley, a small quantity of salt, and one onion ; cover the
Perch with white wine and let them boil over a moderate
fire for twenty minutes. Take the fish out when cooked,
drain them, and put them on a hot dish. Take the bunch
of parsley and onions out of the stewpan, then put in
with the vegetables some finely-minced raw mushrooms,
and cook them for five minutes ; then stir in a piece of
butter kneaded with flour to thicken it ; take the stewpan
off the fire, put in it some more butter, cut in small pieces
but not kneaded, add the strained juice of two lemons,
pour it over the fish, and serve.
Perch a la Normande. — Scale and clean the Perch ; put
some chopped onions at the bottom of a flat stewpan and
put in the Perch, with a bunch of parsley, some trimmings
of fresh mushrooms, a small quantity of salt, and white
wine to cover. When the liquid is boiling, move the stew-
pan to the side of the fire and keep the contents simmer-
ing for a quarter-of-an-hour. Prepare a garnish with some
quenelles, mushrooms, oysters, and mussels, reserving the
liquor of the oysters and mushrooms. Drain the liquor
off the fish, through a fine hair sieve, into a saute-pan,
and boil it till reduced to half; then take the pan off the
fire, thicken the sauce with kneaded butter divided into
little pieces, stirring all the time ; then add a liaison of
three yolks of eggs. Put the Perch on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over it, put the prepared garnish round, glaze
it under a salamander, and serve.
Perch d la Silesienne. — Draw and clean two or three fine
Perch, but do not scale them. Put some water in a sauce-
pan with a bunch of parsley, a small quantity of vinegar,
and a little salt, and boil it ; then plunge the Perch into
it and boil for twenty minutes. Make the following
sauce : Put in a stewpan 2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a
few sprigs of parsley, a little tarragon, two chopped shallots,
a bay-leaf, and four or five peppercorns. Boil the liquid
till reduced to half its original quantity ( see Reducing).
Leave it till cool, then mix with it 1 teacupful of melted
glaze, the beaten yolks of six eggs, |lb. of butter, and a
little salt ; stir the sauce over a very slow fire to thicken,
without letting it boil. Place the sauce in the bain-marie
and whisk it, adding gradually some small pieces of butter.
When frothy, put in 1 teacupful of brown sauce and about
2 table-spoonfuls of grated horseradish. Take the Perch
out carefully with a skimmer, scrape the scales off, dip
the fish in the cooking liquor, then wipe them in a cloth ;
put them on a hot dish, pour the prepared sauce over them,
first mixing with it a little chopped parsley and a few
capers, and serve. Care must be taken to remove the scales
quite cleanly, or they will spoil the dish.
Perch Soup. — Clean five or six Perch and boil them in
white wine and fish-broth, mixed in equal quantities;
when done, drain them and leave till cool. Cut the fillets
from the Perch, divide them, put them in a small stew-
pan, and keep them warm. Put 3oz. of butter in a sauce-
pan with 3oz. of flour, and stir it over the fire till warm,
but do not brown it ; pour in 2qts of the Perch-stock, and stir
it over the fire till it begins to boil; move the saucepan
to the side of the fire, put some vegetables and a bunch
of parsley in, and let it simmer for thirty-five minutes.
Skim and strain the liquor, mix with it some parsley,
celery roots, and carrots previously blanched and chopped,
and boil it for ten minutes longer ; stir in a liaison of
yolks of eggs, to thicken it, put in the Perch fillets,
pour all into a soup-tureen, and serve.
Perch. Stewed in Wine. — (1) Clean and scale the Perch
and put them in a saucepan, with some white wine and
broth, mixed in equal quantities, a bunch of parsley, a
clove of garlic, a laurel-leaf, one onion, three cloves, and
a small quantity of salt. Let the contents of the sauce-
pan simmer for twenty minutes or till the fish are done.
Put the fish on a deep hot dish ; pass their cooking liquor
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
151
Perch — continued.
through a strainer, then stir into it a little butter and
flour that has been kneaded together, a small quantity of
grated nutmeg, black pepper, and essence of anchovy ; stir
it over the lire for a few minutes, then pour it over the
fish, and serve at once.
(2) Scale and clean a few Perch; thickly butter a flat
stewpan and put the fish in it, arranging them one beside
the other ; season with pepper and salt, and cover them
with white wine ; sprinkle in a little chopped parsley, put
the lid on, and boil the Perch over a brisk lire, so that
when the fish are cooked, the liquid will be reduced to
half its original quantity. Put the fish on a hot dish,
thicken the cooking liquor with a piece of butter that has
been worked up with a little flour, pour it over the fish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Scalloped Perch. — Pick some cold fish from the bones, and
mix with it 1 teacupful of milk, \ teaspoonful of made
mustard, a few drops of anchovy sauce, and salt and pepper
to taste ; put it into a small saucepan, and stir it over the
fire for a few minutes. Turn the preparation into scallop-
shells, sprinkle grated breadcrumbs thickly over them, put
a few little pieces of butter on each, and brown them
under a salamander. Put the shells on a dish, garnish round
them with slices of lemon and parsley, and serve them hot.
Watersouchet of Perch. — (1) Scale and clean four Perch,
cut oft' the red fins, and keep them for future use. Put
the Perch into a stewpan with a celery -root and carrot
cut into small shreds, and a few sprigs of parsley ;
sprinkle in a little salt to taste, moisten to the height of
the fish, &c., with white wine, and boil all over a sharp
fire. When cooked, take the fish out with a skimmer,
put them on a hot dish, stand them on their bellies, fix
the red fins on the top (see Fig. 199), and keep the fish
warm. Boil the cooking liquor till reduced to half its
original quantity, garnish round the fish with the vege-
tables, pour the sauce over, and serve with a sauceboatful of
butter-sauce.
(2) Scale and thoroughly clean the Perch, put it into
a fish-kettle of boiling water with one onion, a bunch of
parsley, It teacupfuls of milk, and a small quantity of
salt, and boil it for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Put the Perch
in a deep dish, put in with it the parsley and onion, and
pour a little of the liquor over. Serve with a sauceboat-
ful of parsley-sauce and some thin slices of brown bread-
and-butter.
PERCOELL.— This is a sort of stew prepared by the
Hungarians, amongst whom it is held very highly in
esteem, being declared by some to be their national stew.
The following receipt is contributed by one of our staff :
Cut up in squares lib. of lean veal and lib. of loin of
pork. Thinly slice an onion, and put it in a flat stewpan
with a piece of lard, half a bay-leaf, and a small quan-
tity of paprica (a sort of pepper) sprinkled over ; fry it
lightly, then put in the meat, season with pepper and
salt, and fry it for seven or eight minutes longer. Place
the lid on the stewpan, put hot ashes on the top, stand
it over a moderate fire, and cook the meat, giving it an
occasional stir. Prepare a border of rice on a dish, turn
the meat, &c., on to it, pour 2 table-spoonfuls of brown
sauce over, and serve.
PERIGORD FIE. — This pie is named after Perigord,
formerly a province of France. It is made from truffles,
Perigord Pie — continued.
which are very plentiful in that locality. A very good
Perigord pie can be made as follows:
Cut off the meat from the breasts and wings of any
game intended to be used, and prepare a forcemeat of the
entrails of the birds, brown breadcrumbs, sweet herbs,
spices, truffles, and bacon-fat. Line a pie-mould with
paste ; over this at the bottom and round the sides place
slices of cooked ham; over these place a layer of the
forcemeat, and then put in the game meat, filling up
with rich consomme or melted aspic jelly. Place a layer
of the ham on top, cover over with more of the paste,
brush over with glaze, bake in a moderate oven, brush
over with brown glaze wdien done, and serve cold.
PERIGUEUX SAUCE. — See Sauces.
PERIWINKLES (Fr. Bigomeaux). — The old Anglo-
Saxon name from which the modern term is derived was
pinewin cila, signifying
any form of shell fish
generally. The common
European Periwinkle ( Lit -
torina littorea) (see Fig.
200) is very abundant
along our shores, and has
recently been introduced
into America, where it
seems to thrive consider-
ably. Periwinkles are in
season almost all the year
round, and can be dis-
tinguished from other shell fish of a similar character by
the roundness and blackness of their shells. They require
about twenty minutes’ boiling in salt water.
Periwinkle Patties. — Boil some Periwinkles, pick them
out of their shells, mince them fine, mix with them pepper,
salt, and lemon-juice to taste, and moisten them with a
little stock and a very small quantity of cream. Line
some small patty-pans with puff paste rolled out very
thin, put a good spoonful of the mixture in each, cover
them with puff paste, trim the edges, and press them
together. Brush the patties over with the beaten yolk of
an egg, and bake them.
Periwinkle Salad. — Put the fish in a saucepan of boiling
water with a lump of salt, 1 wineglassful of vinegar, and
four cloves, and boil them slowly for two hours. At the
end of that time, drain the winkles, pick them out of
their shells, cut them into halves, and put them in a
salad-bowl. Prepare a plain salad-dressing of oil and
vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt, pour it over the
winkles, and let them stand an hour. Wash a quantity
of watercress, drain it thoroughly, anti put it into a salad-
bowl; skin and bone three anchovies, cut them up, put
them in the bowl with the watercress, and add the winkles :
pour in the remainder of the dressing, garnish with hard-
boiled eggs, and serve.
PERRY (Fr. Poire). — A pleasant and wholesome
liquor prepared from pears, in the same way that cider is
prepared from apples ( see Cider). It is said to be very
wholesome, and makes an excellent champagne. The fruit
from which it is generally prepared are so rough and
harsh that they are only fit for this purpose or for
cooking.
Perry Jelly. — Beat up the white and shell of one egg with
a little water, then put it in a saucepan with f pint of
water, loz. of leaf gelatine, the rind and juice of one
lemon, and 3oz. of sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire
till boiling, and allow the scum to rise to the top. Move
the saucepan off the fire, cover it, and let it stand for ten
minutes. Make 1 pint of Perry warm, then mix it with
the jelly; warm a jelly-bag by pouring hot water through
it, then pour the jelly through several times till clear.
Pour a layer of jelly in a mould, and leave it till set;
then put in a layer of stewed pears cut into halves, pour
another layer of jelly over them, and let this set. Fill
For details rejecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, ice., referred to, see under their special heads.
152
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Perry — continued.
the mould with layers of pears and jelly, proceeding as
before; then put it in a cold place till well set. When
ready to serve, turn the jelly out on a dish, and garnish
it with stewed pears.
PERSICOT. — See Cordials and Liqueurs.
FERSILLABE. — A French dish, consisting of sliced
cold boiled beef, vinegar, and parsley.
PERSIMMONS.— The fruit of the Virginian Date
Palm ( Diospyros virginiana). They are an inch or
more in diameter, nearly round, and of a yellowish-orange
colour. In taste very rough and harsh, even when
quite ripe, and can only be considered eatable when
softened by the action of frost. In the Southern States
of America, Persimmons are pounded and made into
cakes with bran ; they also make a good beer when
prepared as follows :
Mix together some Persimmons and one-third of their
quantity of corn-meal ; divide the mixture into loaves, and
bake them in a slow oven till firm and hard. Care should
lie taken not to burn them. Then put the loaves into a
clean tub, and pour over them sufficient warm water to
soften them, mash them well to a thin dough, then pour
in as1 much boiling water as there is dough; when well
stirred, strain the mixture through a sieve and pour it
into a keg or barrel. In two or three days’ tune the
beer will be ready for use.
PESTLE and MORTAR.- — Very useful items of
the kitchen furniture are the Pestle and Mortar. Most
large kitchens are fitted with metal Mortars let into
a strong wood block, the Pestle having a long handle
and being supported in an upright position by a slot
fixed in the wall, through which the handle works.
In smaller kitchens Pestles and Mortars of wedge-wood
(see Fig. 201) are found sufficient for all purposes,
especially if two sizes be kept, one from Gin. to 8in.
diameter at the top, and another much larger. Pestles and
Mortars are sometimes made of hardwood, especially for
pounding meat.
PETTITOES. — See Pig’s Feet.
PHEASANTS (. Fr . Faisans ; Ger. Fasanen ; Ital.
Fagiani; Sp. Faisans). — According to some authorities
the word Pheasant signifies a Phasian bird, as being a
native of the banks of a Grecian river, in Colchis, named
Phasis. There are several varieties of Pheasants, but
the common or English Pheasant ( Phasianus colchicus)
is now found over most of temperate Europe, and is
that upon which the cook is chiefly called upon to exercise
his skill. Pheasants are in season during the winter
months commencing with October, and are usually sold
in pairs, constituting what is called a brace. The young
birds may be distinguished from the old ones by the
shortness and roundness of the spur. They require to be
hung until the game flavour is pronounced. They should ,
Pheasants — continued.
be hung up by the tails and not by the necks, as is
so frequently done, and the French cook says that they
are fit only when the bird falls away from the tail.
When preparing a Pheasant for cooking, it should be
caref nlly plucked of its feathers ; the tail, head, and
breast being sometimes preserved for the sake of garnish-
ing. Directions for carving are given under headings ;
some instructions are also given for trussing, the
Fig. 202. Pheasant Trussed for Roasting.
principle being very simple, consisting merely of bringing
the legs close to the breast (see Fig. 202), then passing
a skewer (a b) through the pinions and thick part of
the thigh bones and securing the ends of the legs by a
little skewer passed through the legs above the joints.
Boiled Pheasant. — Cut off the feet, head, and neck of a
Pheasant, leaving a portion of the neck skin to turn over.
Mix together a scant breakfast- cupful of breadcrumbs and
2 table -spoonfuls of finely-chopped beef-suet, season with
pepper, salt, and minced lemon-peel, and bind the mixture
with beaten egg and 1 teaspoonful of thick cream. Stuff
the bird with the mixture, fastening the skin over with a
skewer, put it into a stewpan that will just contain it,
cover it with cold water, and place it over the fire. When
the water boils, move the pan to the edge of the fire,
Fig. 203. Boiled Pheasant.
take the scum off the top, and keep it simmering gently
for half-an-hour. When cooked, place the Pheasant on a
hot dish and serve it with a white sauce over it. Garnish
with parsley and cooked button-mushrooms. See Fig. 203.
Boudin of Pheasant. — (1) Cut the flesh off the bones of a
cold roast Pheasant, and trim off all the skin and sinewy
parts. Put the trimmings into a stewpan with about
\ pint of stock, and boil them gently to make a little rich
gravy. Finely mince two onions that have been boiled
until tender in a little broth ; mince the flesh of the
Pheasant, mix it with the onions, strain the gravy over
it, add 2 table -spoonfuls of finely-chopped veal fat and
sufficient breadcrumbs to render the whole consistent, and
season with salt and pepper. Turn the mixture into a
mortar, and pound it well ; then beat in the yolks of six
raw eggs. Stuff the mixture into skins, and boil them
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
153
Pheasants — continued.
gently for half-an-hour in milk. Take them up and let
them get cold ; prick the boudins here and there with the
point of a skewer, wrap each one separately in a sheet
of buttered paper, and put them in a quick oven until
they are thoroughly hot through. Remove the paper, and
arrange the boudins on a hot dish over which has been
spread a folded napkin or an ornamental disli-paper,
garnish them with fried parsley, and serve.
(‘2) Prepare a forcemeat as directed for No. 1. Fry a
small chopped onion in butter without browning it, then
mix it with the forcemeat. Cut some sheets of paper into
strips, 4in. long and 2Jin. wide, butter them, and put on
each, with the handle of a spoon, a piece of forcemeat
3 Jin. long, 1 Jin. wide, and about Jin. thick or thereabouts.
Move part of the forcemeat from the centre of each
boudin, so as to form a hollow Jin. deep and fin. wide ;
put in the hollow a salpifon, made with truffles, fillets
of cooked pheasant and tongue, and some stiffly reduced
Spanish sauce, without quite filling it ; and cover the
salpifon with forcemeat. Put the boudins in a saute -pan
with some general stock, and let them simmer for fifteen
minutes. Boil some Spanish sauce with essence of game
till reduced to half. When cooked, drain the boudins on
a cloth, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the
reduced sauce over, and serve.
Braised Pheasant. — Prepare and truss a Pheasant as
for boiling. Line a stewpan with slices of fat bacon and
one or two thick slices of veal, put in the bird, seasoning
it well with salt and pepper ; add a few sweet herbs,
cover it with more slices of bacon and veal, cover the
stewpan down perfectly air-tight, and put it into a
moderate oven and cook it for two hours. When done,
put the bird on a hot dish, strain over it some of the
gravy that will have run from it whilst cooking, garnish
it with sliced lemons, and serve.
Braised Pheasant a la Finaneiere. — Prepare and braise
two Pheasants. Then prepare a finaneiere ragout with foies
gras, cocks’ combs, truffles and Pheasant forcemeat quenelles,
and mix with them some finaneiere sauce. Put a block of
fried bread in the centre of a dish, sticking it on to the dish
with white of egg and flour-paste ; arrange the Pheasants
leaning against each end of the bread, put the ragout in
the dish in order, put a row of Pheasant forcemeat
quenelles below each Pheasant, a cooked and larded sweet-
bread each side of the bread, with cooked truffles on each.
Put four crayfish and some cocks’ combs in the spaces,
and put another larded and cooked sweetbread on the top
of the bread. Get five silver attelettes and garnish them
with cocks’ combs, truffles, and crayfish, stick them in
the Pheasants and sweetbreads, and serve with a sauceboat-
ful of finaneiere sauce that has been reduced with essence
of Pheasant.
Braised Pheasants a la Soyer. — Singe and draw three
young Pheasants and truss them as for boiling. Chop the
livers and Jib. of beef-suet, and put them in a mortar
with lib. of breadcrumbs, a small quantity of chopped
thyme and parsley, and a seasoning of pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture well, and bind it with
four beaten eggs. Stuff the birds with the forcemeat and
braise them, with vegetables. Shape a croustade like the
bow of a ship and dress it at the head of the dish ; or-
nament a large quenelle with pieces of truffles, stick it
through lengthwise with a silver skewer, and fix it at the
top of the croustade. When cooked, arrange two of the
Pheasants on the dish, with their tails touching the
croustade, and the other between with its breast towards
the end of the dish. While the Pheasants are cooking, pre-
pare the following sauce : Put 2qts. of essence of game in
a saucepan with 1 breakfast-cupful of clear broth, and
boil it till of a thick creamy consistency; then put in
some heads of mushrooms and dressed cocks’ combs. Mask
the Pheasants over with the sauce, and serve.
Braised Pheasants with Pat Goose Liver and Truffles.
— Cut lib. of fat liver (foie gras) and lib. of truffles into
small squares, and sprinkle over them a small quantity of
salt and pepper. Stuff two Pheasants with this preparation,
and truss them as for braising ; tie some thin slices of fat
Pheasants — continued.
bacon over them (see Bakding), and put them in a
braising-pan with the drainer in it. Pour in with the
Pheasants H breakfast- cupfuls of mirepoise and 1 break-
fast-cupful of white wine, put the lid on the pan, with
some live embers on it, and let the contents simmer
gently over a slow fire for three-quarters-of-an-hour. Lard
and braise two fat livers. Prepare as for garnish 1 dozen
or so cocks’ kernels, 1 dozen or so truffles, and 1 dozen
large and white cocks’ combs. Cut a block of bread 4in.
long and 2in. wide, and cut it out at each end on the top
for the Pheasants to rest against, fry the bread in boiling
lard, then drain and fix it in the centre of a hot dish
with a little fiour mixed in the white of egg. When
cooked, drain the Pheasants, untie them, and put them,
resting against the bread crop upwards, one at each end of
the dish. Fill the spaces with truffles, fat livers, cocks’
combs .and kernels in such way as to completely cover
the bread. Garnish three attelettes (skewers) with cocks’
combs and truffles, mask them with a little Spanish sauce
that has been reduced with essence of truffles, and serve
with a boatful of the same sauce.
Broiled Cutlets of Pheasant. — (1) Draw and clean two
well-hung Pheasants and cut them up; take out the
bones from the legs and breasts, and put them with the
trimmings into a saucepan ; put in also a carrot and
turnip, two or three sprigs of sweet herbs, a small quantity
of pepper and salt, and about f pint of water or stock.
Let it simmer by the side of the fire for three-quarters-of-
an-hour. Trim the pieces of Pheasant into cutlets, stick
a small bone at the end of each, dip them in beaten egg
and breadcrumbs, and broil them over a clear fire. When
the cutlets are cooked, arrange them in a pyramid on a
hot dish; strain and thicken the gravy with a little flour
and butter mixed together, pour it over the cutlets, and
serve.
(2) Cut out the fillets of three young Pheasants, trim
them, and divide the fillets of each Pheasant into six
cutlets, reserving the small bones to stick at the end of
each ; then dip them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, put
them on a gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire, turn-
ing to do both sides equally. Arrange the cutlets when
cooked on a hot dish, pour over them some brown sauce
flavoured with fumet of game, and serve. s,
(3) Prepare some cutlets from the fillets of some young
Pheasants, making two with the large ones and one with
the small ones. Beat the cutlets lightly to flatten them,
trim them to a nice shape, dip them in beaten egg and
then in breadcrumbs, and broil them over a clear fire.
When nicely browned, arrange the cutlets in a circle on
a hot dish, fill the centre with a brown sauce flavoured
with fumet of game, and serve them.
Broiled Pheasant.— Cut the bird into four pieces and fry
them in lard ; when nicely browned all over and half-done
through, take them from the fire, drain the lard from
them, brush over with beaten egg, roll them in a paper of
breadcrumbs mixed with salt and cayenne, put them on a
hot well-greased gridiron, and broil them for ten minutes
over a clear fire.
Chaudfroid of Pheasants.— Pluck and trass two Pheasants,
wrap them in buttered paper, and roast them without
colouring. When cold, cut them up into several pieces,
strip oft’ the skin, dip them in chaudfroid sauce, and leave
on a dish to set. Arrange some small evenly-cut pieces
of the fillets in a border-mould ; fill it with half-set savoury
aspic jelly, and when the jelly is quite set turn out the
border on to a dish. Fix a crouton of fried bread in the
centre, and pile the pieces of Pheasant over it. A few
sprigs of parsley may be tucked in here and there to
complete the effect.
Collops of Pheasant in Cases. — Cut off the meat of some
Pheasants, cut it into thin collops, put them in a saute-
pan_ with a couple of minced truffles, and fry them in
clarified butter. Oil slightly some paper-cases, about 2in.
in diameter, and put them in a slack oven for five
minutes. Drain the Pheasant collops and truffles when
done, put them in the cases, pour in a little Spanish sauce
that has been reduced with essence of truffles, and serve,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£c., referred to, see under their special heads.
154
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pheasants — continued.
arranging on a dish covered with an ornamental paper,
and garnish with parsley. See Fig. 204.
Fig. 204. collops of Pheasants in Cases.
Consomme of Pheasant. — Remove the skin from anout
lib. of the flesh of a cooked Pheasant, chop it up small,
and cover it over. Meanwhile, take an onion, a leek, and
half a root of celery, mince them very fine, put them
into a stewpan with a little butter, and fry them, adding
tire backs and bones of a Pheasant broken in pieces, and
any other raw trimmings that are at hand ; also add a few
pieces of ham, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 3qts. or 4qts.
of good broth. Put the pan on the fire, boil up the con-
tents, skim it, and then put it on the side of the fire,
and leave it for one-and-a-half hours. Strain it through
a cloth and take off the fat. During this time put the
cooked meat of the Pheasant into a mortar, pound it
well, add 4 table-spoonfuls of the stock, the yolks of eight
eggs, and rub it through a sieve, adding a little grated
nutmeg to season it. Take a mould, put a layer of
buttered paper at the bottom, butter the sides, and pour
it in. Put the mould in a stewpan, and put the pan in
the bain-marie to poach the contents. When thick, remove
it from the fire, let it get cold, turn it out, and cut it
up into squares. Put these in the soup-tureen, and pour
the consomme over.
Curried Pheasant. — Disjoint a Pheasant as for serving,
and partially fry, so as to nicely brown it, in butter with
three or four sliced onions. Mix 1 table-spoonful of flour
with 1 table-spoonful of curry-powder and a lump of
butter, put it in a stewpan, and pour in gradually
1 pint of stock, stirring it over the fire till quite smooth.
Finely chop three or four apples, and mix with them an
equal quantity of chopped heart of cabbage, 1 finely-
minced pickled capsicum, the strained juice of one lemon,
and a small quantity of salt. Put these and the fried
Pheasant in the stock, add h pint of cream, and let
it boil gently by the side of the fire till the meat and
vegetables are done, stirring occasionally. Arrange the
meat, when cooked, on a hot dish ; reduce the cooking
liquor by boiling, then pour it over the meat, and serve.
Devilled Legs of Pheasants. — Take the legs of cold roast
Pheasants, score them across four or five times, rub mustard,
pepper, and a little salt into the cuts, and broil them on a
hot gridiron with a piece of cold butter laid on each leg.
Serve as hot as possible.
Essence of Pheasant. — Put the bones and trimmings of
about six Pheasants into a saucepan, having removed the
flesh and put it by for other uses, such as entries, &c.
Slice a small onion with two cloves, and put it in with
the bones, adding also a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs,
a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and 1 pint of madeira.
Boil the mixture till reduced to a glaze, then pour in
3qts. of broth, and let it simmer for one-and-a-half hours
by the side of the fire, skimming it occasionally. Strain
the essence through a broth-napkin, cool it a little, then
skim off the fat, and bottle it for use.
Fillets of Larded (Pique) Pheasants served with Potatoes
and Mushrooms. — Remove the fillets from two or three
Pheasants, trim them neatly, lard and braise them. Cut
some slices of cucumber, the same size as the fillets, put
them into a saucepan with a little stock and h teaspoon-
ful of sugar, and boil them gently till tender. Put a
border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish ; mix some
blanched mushrooms with some jardiniere sauce, and pile
it in the centre of the dish. Arrange the fillets
Pheasants — continued.
and slices of cucumber alternately on the potato, and
serve.
Fillets of Pheasants d la Financiere. — Cut the fillets
off six Pheasants, trim them, and put them in a buttered
saut6-pan, covering them with a sheet of buttered paper.
Trim and put at each end of the minion fillets a small
square of truffle, put them in a buttered saute -pan,
curving them slightly, with some quenelles, fat livers,
mushrooms, and truffles. Prepare a ragout, and mix
them with financiere sauce. Saut6 the fillets and minion
fillets. Prepare a croustade and fix it on a dish with
white of egg and flour; drain the fillets and put them
round it. Put the prepared ragout in the centre of the
croustade, and arrange the minion fillets round the top,
placing a cock’s comb in the centre. Reduce some finan-
ciere sauce with essence of Pheasant, mask the fillets
with it, and serve with a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
Fillets of Pheasants with Brussels Sprouts. — Remove
the fillets from the bones of some young Pheasants, lard
them, and braise them the same way as fowls. Wash
some Brussels sprouts, plunge them into boiling water,
add a lump of salt, and partly cook them. Drain the
sprouts, put them into a stewpan with 4oz. of streaky
bacon and 1 pint of stock, season them with salt and
pepper, and boil them over a moderate fire till the stock
is reduced to a glaze. When the fillets of Pheasants are
cooked, lay them in circular order on a hot dish. Press
the sprouts in a colander, turn them into the centre of
the dish, pour some game sauce round, and serve.
Fillets of Pheasants Sautes a la Maintenon. — Take the
fillets from two large young Pheasants and cut each into
two slices, beat them lightly, season with salt and
pepper, put them into a saute -pan with 2 table-spoonfuls
of olive-oil, and saute them over a quick fire, keeping
them rather underdone. When cooked, take the fillets
out and drain them. Put two chopped onions into the
saute -pan and fry them till lightly browned, adding more
oil if necessary ; then mix in 2 table-spoonfuls each of
chopped mushrooms and chopped parsley, and 1 pint of
white sauce, seasoning with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg,
and | teaspoonful of sugar. Boil the sauce till thickly
reduced, stirring it at the same time ; put the fillets in
the sauce, move it away from the fire, and leave it till
cold. Cut as many pieces of white paper as there are
fillets into heart-shaped pieces, put a fillet on each, with
the sauce divided equally, and wrap the papers over,
twisting them well at the ends. Broil the fillets over a
clear but slow fire. When cooked, put them on a hot
dish, leaving then in their papers, and serve with a sauce-
boatful of rich gravy.
Fried Fillets of Pheasants with Cream Sauce. — Remove
the fillets from four young Pheasants, trim them neatly,
lard four of them, and braise them as for fowl. Finely
mince some ham, and mix it with an equal quantity of
grated breadcrumbs. Brush the remaining fillets over
with a paste -brush dipped in beaten egg, and roll them
in the mixed breadcrumbs, giving them a good coating ;
then put them into a frying-pan with some clarified butter,
and fry them till lightly browned. Meanwhile prepare
the following sauce: Chop the bones of the Pheasants,
put them into a saucepan with an onion, a small quantity
of chopped carrot and turnip, two or three sprigs' of thyme
and parsley, a bay-leaf, and 1 teacupful of white wine ; stir
the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, then pour in
lqt. of bechamel sauce and 1 pint of veal stock. Reduce
the sauce till thick, stirring it at the same time; then
pass it through a fine hair sieve, return it to the sauce-
pan with 1 teacupful of cream and 1 teaspoonful of sugar,
and boil it up again. Mix some white dressed cocks’
combs with the sauce. Glaze the braised fillets, and
arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, alternating them
with the fried fillets; pour the sauce in the centre, and
serve.
Fried Fillets of Pheasants with Green Sauce.— Prepare
a Pheasant, cut off the fillets from the breast, spread them
over with truffle forcemeat, roll them up, fasten with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
155
Pheasants — continued.
skewers, brash them over with egg, (lust with breadcrumbs,
plunge them into boiling fat, and fry them a golden
colour. Colour 1 pint of bechamel sauce with parsley or
spinach juice, and stir in a little minced pickled samphire.
Arrange the pieces of Pheasants on a dish, pour round the
sauce, arrange a few sprigs of parsley round the top, and
garnish until slices of tomato and button mushrooms.
Pried Fillets of Pheasants with Quenelles.— Cut out
the fillets of six Pheasants, trim them, and put them in
a buttered saute -pan until a sheet of buttered paper on the '
top. Trim the minion fillets and fix a small square of
truffle at the end of each, put them in a buttered saute -
pan, curving them to a crescent shape, and fry them.
Prepare some Pheasant forcemeat quenelles, and shape it
into pieces the size of olives. Fix a croustade on a dish,
arrange the fillets round it, and fill it with the quenelles.
Reduce some Spanish sauce with essence of Pheasant, pour
some over the fillets, and serve until the remainder in a
sauceboat.
Pried Fillets of Pheasants with Truffles. — Cut off the
fillets of two young but well-liung Pheasants ; put them
in a saute -pan with some thin slices of truffles, and fry ,
them in clarified butter. When nicely browned on both ,
sides, drain the fillets, put them on a sheet of paper on
the table, and trim them to the same shape, leaving the
truffles to cook a little longer ; put the fillets into the saute -
pan again, and give them one or two turns over the
fire. Reduce some bechamel sauce with essence of truffles,
and Pheasant. Drain the fillets and truffles, arrange ,
them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Pried Legs of Pheasants Stuffed with Forcemeat. — Bone
one dozen legs of Pheasants, but do not remove the shanks.
Prepare lib. of forcemeat as for Pheasant A. la Perigueux,
mixing with it four chopped truffles. Season the legs, and stuff
them with this mixture. Sew
them up, put them in a stew-
pan with 1 pint of madeira and
the same quantity of stock,
and stew them till the liquor
is reduced one-half ; then,
take the legs off' the fire,
and leave them to cool in
the liquor. Untruss the legs,
shape them nicely, dip them in
beaten egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry them in boiling fat.
When nicely browned, fasten a ruffle on each bone (see
Fig. 205), put them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-
cover on a hot dish, garnish round with fried parsley, and
serve.
Galantine of Pheasant. — (1) Select a large Pheasant, pluck
and draw it, split it down the back and bone it, spread
the bird open upon a cloth, and stuff it with a forcemeat
composed of tongue, veal fat, truffles, white meat of
poultry, and larding bacon, seasoned well with spices.
Sew the bird up, bringing it back to its original shape as
nearly as possible, wrap it in slices of fat bacon, fasten-
ing this on with small skewers, put it in a stewpan, pour
over in equal quantities sufficient white wine and broth to
cover it, and stew it gently for three hours. Afterwards
remove the stewpan from the fire, and leave the bird in
the liquor for an hour ; then take it out, clarify the liquor
and strain it, and leave it until set. Remove the bacon,
place the bird on a dish, garnish round with the jelly cut
into nice-shaped pieces, and serve.
(2) Pluck the bird with the exception of the neck, wings,
and tail, which should be left with the plumage on, then
bone it carefully. Chop some game flesh, half the quantity
of chicken flesh, and an equal quantity of fat bacon ; put
the chopped meats in a mortar, pound them well, season-
ing them, and mixing a third of the quantity of chopped
truffles and fat liver with them. Bind the mixture with
beaten yolk of egg, and stuff the bird with it. Trass the
Pheasant and wrap it in a cloth to a round shape. Put
the bones and trimmings of the Pheasant, truffles, and
bacon in a saucepan with some good broth, boil it up,
then put the bird in, and boil it gently for an-hour-and-
Pheasants — continued.
a-half. When cooked, drain the galantine, untie it, and
wrap it up again, keeping it in a rounded oblong shape,
and leave till cooled. Line an oblong-shaped mould with
pie-crust, and bake it till a light brown. When the galantine
is cold, cut it crosswise and glaze it. Fill the interior of
the pie-crust with bread, and turn it over on to a pain-vert
fixed on a dish ; then place the Pheasant on it, ornament
it with the wings, tail, neck and head, which should
be kept upright by means of a bit of wire, fastened on
to the crust support. Garnish the base of the crust
with a thick string of chopped aspic jelly, and some
chicken legs that have been boned and stuffed with galan-
tine forcemeat to resemble ducks. Garnish the base of the
pain-vert with croutons of aspic jelly, in the centre of each
of which is placed a small quantity of chopped jelly.
Place the dish on an ornamented stand, and serve it.
Hashed Pheasant. — Cut some cold cooked Pheasant into
small pieces, and put them in a frying-pan with a little
flour and butter, and fry them till lightly browned. Put
in a small saucepan 1 breakfast-cupful of water, 1 wine-
glassful of port wine, a small quantity of browning, and
pepper and salt to taste ; when boiling, skim it, stir it
over the fire till very thick, then put in the pieces of
Pheasant to warm them, but do not boil the sauce again.
Arrange the meat on a hot dish, garnish with croutons of
fried bread, and serve.
Minced Pheasant. — Cut the meat off two cooked Pheasants
into small slices, removing all skin and tendons, put them
in a stewpan and keep them covered. Put the bones,
broken up, in another stewpan with 1 teacupful of finely
chopped vegetables, half that quantity of trimmings of ham,
a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, and 1 teacupful of
white wine and broth, mixed in equal quantities ; stew
them to make a Pheasant extract. Put 2 table-spoonfuls
of chopped mushrooms and the same quantity of chopped
onions into a stewpan and fry them. When the moisture
of the mushrooms has evaporated somewhat, sprinkle in a
handful of breadcrumbs, and the strained gravy from the
bones of the Pheasant ; stir them over the fire and then
boil it for three or four minutes ; put in the pieces of
Pheasant, and warm them without boiling. Sprinkle in
the mince a little pepper and chopped parsley, and add
the strained juice of a lemon and 1 table-spoonful of Harvey
sauce. Turn the mince on to a hot dish, garnish with
croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Pheasants a, la Bohemienne. — Truss the Pheasants, prepare
a forcemeat with chopped truffles, foies gras, mixed herbs,
pepper and salt, and stuff the birds with it ; then put
them in a stewpan with some mirepoix, and 1 wineglass -
ful of Madeira, and stew them gently till done. Put the
Pheasants on a hot dish, garnish them with stewed truffles,
foies gras, cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Pass the sauce
through a fine hair sieve over the birds, and serve.
Pheasant a la Diplomate. — Pluck and singe a young
Pheasant that has hung long enough to be tender, split
the skin of the neck down lengthwise, remove the bone,
slightly split the back bone, so as to widen the opening
of the stomach, and draw it without making another
opening. Bone and skin a large woodcock that lias hung
till tender, cut the flesh into squares, and put it in a
basin with three or four raw truffles, also cut into squares;
sprinkle over them some mixed spices, pepper and salt;
pour in 2 table-spoonfuls of madeira, and let them steep
for two hours. Put the livers of two fowls in a stewpan
with the liver and trail of the woodcock, a little chopped
shallot, half the trimmings of the truffles, and a small
piece of butter; fry them, season with pepper and salt,
and let them cool. Put this fried liver mixture into
a mortar, pound them, and pass them through a sieve;
mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls of melted glaze and 1 pinch
of cayenne. Coat six oval-shaped croutons of fried bread
with the preparation. Chop and pound 5oz. of bacon, mix
it with the squares of woodcock and truffles, stuff the
Pheasant with it, and sew up the skin underneath.
Sprinkle a dust of salt over the bird and wrap it up in
a square of pig’s caul, tie it round with string, and make
it fast to a spit; roast it in front of a clear fire, putting
Fig. 205. Fried Leg of
Pheasant Stuffed with
Forcemeat.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, See., referred to, see under their special heads.
156
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pheasants — continued.
the six crofitons of bread in the dripping-pan underneath,
and basting continually with a paste-brush dipped in wanned
butter. W hen cooked, put the Pheasant on a hot dish,
garnish round with the crofitons of bread, and serve with
a sauceboatful of rich gravy.
Pheasant & l'Etouffade. — Singe, draw, and pluck a fine
cock Pheasant, lard it, and wrap some thin slices of fat
bacon round it. Line a stewpan with slices of bacon, put
in the Pheasant, moisten it to height with equal quantities
of white wine and rich gravy, and cover the stewpan closely.
Stew the bird slowly for two hours, then drain it, put it
on a hot dish, pour round it a sufficient quantity of essence
of game that has been made hot, and serve.
Pheasants a l’Extravagante. — No other cook than Soyer
could ever have conceived such a dish as the following : Pre-
pare and bone the breasts of two large Pheasants. Make
the following forcemeat : fillet six woodcocks, and cut each
fillet into halves lengthwise, put them in a saute-pan with
lib. of chopped mushrooms, 1 table- spoonful of chopped
shallots, and 2oz. of scraped bacon ; season them with salt
and pepper, and set them over the fire for ten minutes,
turning the fillets at the end of five minutes ; then mix
in 1 i breakfast-cupfuls of bechamel sauce, fib. of cooked
cocks’ combs, and a small quantity of sugar and grated
nutmeg. Mix the beaten yolks of three eggs with the
other ingredients, and stir them over the fire till the egg
sets ; then turn the mixture on to a dish, and leave it
till cool. When quite firm, divide the stuffing into equal
portions, and stuff the Pheasants with it. Sew the skin
of the neck over on the back, but take care not to stretch
it too tightly across the breast, or it may break ; put
some slices of fat bacon over the birds, wrap them in
sheets of greased paper, and roast them in front of a clear
fire. Put the trimmings, &c., of the woodcocks into a
saucepan with 1 pint of white stock, 2 wineglassfuls of
sherry, two sliced shallots, one bay-leaf, two or three sprigs
of parsley and thyme, half a blade of mace, and three
cloves. Let the sauce simmer for fifteen minutes, then
pour in lqt. of brown sauce, and boil the whole for twenty
minutes. At the end of that time, take out the pieces of
woodcock, cut the flesh and trails from the bones, and
pound them in a mortar, then return them to the sauce,
having first passed it through a fine hair sieve into a clean
stewpan. Season the sauce with salt, pepper, and b tea-
spoonful of sugar, then rub it again through a fine hair
sieve. Just before taking the birds up, remove the paper
and bacon, to brown them lightly ; then put them on a
hot dish on which has been placed a border of poached
forcemeat, pour the sauce in the centre over the birds, and
serve. A very tasty garnish for this dish is made by cutting
about twenty-four pieces of bread in the shape of hearts,
then masking them on one side with forcemeat, making it
rather thicker in the middle, and place a ready dressed
cocks’ comb on each. Butter a deep baking dish, lay the
pieces of bread in it, cover them over with a sheet of
buttered paper, and bake them for half-an-hour in a
moderate oven.
Pheasant a la Minute. — Cut off the best pieces of meat
from a fine large Pheasant, and trim them nicely; put a
good-sized lump of butter into a flat stewpan, and place
it over the fire until melted ; then put in - the pieces of
Pheasant with a few chopped herbs and toss them about
over the fire for a few minutes. When the meat begins
to stiffen, moisten with a few table-spoonfuls of white
wine and good gravy, season to taste with salt and pepper,
and boil gently at the side of the fire for five minutes.
Arrange the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it,
and serve with a sauceboatful of shallot sauce.
Pheasant a la Perigueux. — Pluck, singe, and draw a
Pheasant, and make the following forcemeat : Peel tlb.
of fresh truffles, chop them, and pound them in a mortar
witbr3oz. of bacon-fat. Put the pounded mixture into a
Small saucepan, and stir it over the fire until hot through ;
then turn it into a basin and let it get cold, and season
it to taste. Stuff the bird with this, wrap it in thin
slices of bacon, and leave it for two days, to absorb the
flavour of the truffles. Wrap it in a sheet of buttered
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Pheasants — continued.
paper, fix it on a spit, and roast it before a clear fire,
keeping it well basted. When the Pheasant is cooked,
remove the paper, place it on a hot dish, pour round it
a rich brown gravy made from the gizzards, neck, &c., and
serve, garnished with truffles and potato croquette with
a little mushroom ketchup and essence of ham in it. See
Fig. 206.
Pheasant a la Soubise. — Trass a Pheasant as for Boiled
Chicken, put it in a braising pan with a layer of bacon,
some chopped vegetables, some sweet herbs, and b pint of
stock, and braise it. When cooked, take the Pheasant
out of the braising-pan, drain it, and dry it in front of
the fire. Put the Pheasant on a hot dish, surround it
with soubise sauce, and serve.
Pheasant Croquettes. — (1) Cut some of the meat of a cold
roasted Pheasant into small pieces, removing all the skin,
fat, tendons, and gristle; mix with it an equal quantity
of truffles, chopped up in the same way. Boil b pint °f
Spanish sauce with 1 wineglassful of essence of truffles
till stiffly reduced, then mix it with the meat and truffles,
and leave it to cool. Divide the preparation of Pheasant
meat and truffles into equal-sized portions, and roll them
into balls or “cocks.” Beat two beaten eggs with 1 table-
spoonful of oil, pepper and salt to taste ; roll the croquettes
in it, then in breadcrumbs, and fry them in boiling fat
till crisp and lightly browned. When cooked, drain the
croquettes, sprinkle salt over them, and put them on an
ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish ; garnish with fried
parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of either poivrade,
Perigueux or tomato sauces.
(2) Trim off all the skin, bones, and sinewy parts from
a cold roasted Pheasant, cut the flesh into small squares,
put it into a saucepan with a small quantity of thick
white sauce, and stir it over the fire until hot. Turn the
mixture on to a dish, and leave it until cold ; then with
two table-spoons mould it into egg-shaped croquettes.
Roll the croquettes into breadcrumbs that have been
seasoned with salt and pepper, then in beaten raw egg,
and again in the breadcrumbs. Put clarified fat or butter
into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the
blue smoke arises, put in the croquettes, a few at a time,
and fry them a rich golden brown. As each lot are cooked,
rest them on a sheet of kitchen paper for a minute to
drain off the fat. Spread a folded napkin or an orna-
mental dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the croquettes
on it, garnish them nicely with fried parsley, and serve.
(3) Cut the meat of a cooked Pheasant into small
squares, and put these in a saucepan with one-third of
their quantity of cooked truffles, also cut in squares, and
keep them covered. Make a gravy with the bones. Boil
some brown sauce till reduced, then stir in gradually with
it the gravy, pour it into the stewpan with the chopped
meat, and leave it till cool, h orm the preparation
into pear-shaped croquettes, roll them in beaten eggs
and breadcrumbs, put them in boiling fat, and fry them
till nicely browned. Drain the croquettes, put them on
a hot dish, garnish until fried parsley, and serve.
Pheasant Forcemeat.— Chop fib. of Pheasant and J2lb. of
chicken meat together, put it in a mortar, pound it, and
then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Pound and pass
through the sieve lOoz. of boiled udder of veal, mix it
with the pounded meat, and work it up with fib. of
bread panada ; sprinkle over it a little grated nutmeg, salt
and pepper, and mix the whole thoroughly with 1 tea-
<
uces, cfcc., referred tot see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
157
Pheasants — continued.
cupful of reduced Spanish sauce. Test a small piece of
the forcemeat by poaching it in boiling water, and if it
is too still’, mix a little more of the sauce with it.
Pheasant Forcemeat Cake with Grenadines. — Trim and
laid the fillets cut off six Pheasants with thin strips of
fat bacon, put them in a buttered saute 'pan, sprinkle over
with a pinch of salt and pepper, and put a sheet of
buttered paper on the top. With some crumb of bread
and essence of Pheasant, prepare a panada and put it on
a plate to cool. Cut the remaining flesh off the bones of
the Pheasant, put them in a mortar with the minion
fillets and the fillets of six fowls, and pound them ; pass
all through a fine hair sieve, then put it in the mortar
again, and mix with it an equal quantity of boiled udder,
that has been pounded and passed through the sieve, and
with this mix half the quantity of the Pheasant-meat
and the panada ; sprinkle with more salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg; pound all together to mix them well,
adding three eggs, one at a time, and sufficient reduced
(see Reducing) Spanish sauce to make it stiff. Fill a
plain oval-buttered border mould, lOin. long and 2^in.
wide, with the forcemeat, and poach it in the bain-marie,
without boiling. When set, turn the forcemeat out on to
a croustade on a dish, glaze it, and arrange the Pheasant
fillets, previously cooked and glazed, on the top. Garnish
six silver skewers, with cocks’ combs and truffles (see
Attelettes), and stick them in the forcemeat. Serve
with a sauceboatful of Spanish sauce reduced with an
addition of essence of Pheasant.
Pheasant in Paste. — Prepare the bird, and put in its
inside a small onion and a piece of bacon ; then enclose
it in a suet crust, and boil or steam it like a beef-steak
pudding. Care should be taken to make the paste thick
enough not to break when it is taken out of the pot.
Place it on a hot dish, cut a circular piece out of the top,
through which pour a small quantity of highly seasoned
gravy, and serve while very hot.
Pheasant Pie. — (1) Cut up a Pheasant and lay the pieces
in a pie-dish, putting the breast in the middle; season
with salt and pepper, moisten to height with gravy, cover
the pie-dish with another dish, and put it in the oven
for ten minutes; then dredge the Pheasant with flour,
put in two or three hard-boiled eggs, cut into halves, put
a few pieces of butter about on the top,- cover the pie
with a good crust, and bake it. Make some gravy with
the gizzard, neck, &c., of the bird, and season it with a
small onion and two or three cloves. When cooked, take
the pie out of the oven and strain in the gravy at the
top. Serve the pie either hot or cold. A few bones should
be boiled with the gravy to make it jelly.
(2) Cold. — Take the meat off a young Pheasant, cut it
up small, and put it in a basin with six peeled raw
truffles; sprinkle with salt and spices, and pour over 1
wineglassful of madeira, and let the pieces macerate in
this for one hour. Cut the flesh off two hares’ legs into
small pieces, and fry it with the liver of the Pheasant ;
when done, let it cool, then chop it up with an equal
quantity of lean veal or pork and bacon. Put it in a
mortar, pound well, season with salt and spices; mix with
the pieces of Pheasant and truffles, adding 6oz. of cooked
bacon cut in dice. Line a buttered cold-pie mould with
short paste, fill it with the Pheasant and forcemeat, in
alternate layers, raising them in a dome, and put a round of
paste on the top ; moisten and pinch the edges together.
Cut the paste straight two-thirds of an inch above the
rim of the mould, and with paste-pincers pinch this crest
on the top as well as on its outside. Roll the parings of the
paste out thin, cut it into strips, then cut these into shapes
of leaves ; lightly brush over the top of the pie with water,
arrange the leaves like a rosette upon it, cut four rounds of
paste out, each one smaller than the other, and stick them
one above the other at the top of the pie, putting the smallest
on top, then make an incision right through the top. Brush
the pie over with beaten egg, using a paste-brusli, and put
it in a moderate oven for a quarter-of-an-hour; then cover
it with paper and bake for two hours. With the bones
of the Pheasant, together with some trimmings of meat
Pheasants — continued.
and truffles, a little wine and aspic jelly, prepare a
rich gravy ; twenty minutes after the pie has been taken
out of the oven, pour the gravy in through the hole at
the top, and serve when cold.
(3) Singe, draw, and clean two Pheasants which have
been hanging for about two days to improve their flavour,
cut them up into pieces, put them into a frying-pan with
a little butter, and cook them until done. Let them get
cold, put them into a pie-dish lined with paste, and mix
them up with a few truffles and a little game forcemeat.
Cover over with two bay-leaves and slices of very fat
bacon, and lastly with more paste, and bake for about an-
hour-and-a-half. When done, remove from the oven, take
off the slices of bacon and bay-leaves, replace the cover of
paste, turn the pie out on to a dish, and serve cold.
Pheasant Quenelles with Truffles. — Chop up lib. of cold
roasted Pheasant meat, put it into a mortar and pound
it, pass it through a fine hair sieve, and mix with it lOoz.
of panada, prepared with broth and rice-flour and left
till cold. Work it well together in the mortar, and pound
them for seven or eight minutes longer. Mix in with the
forcemeat lOoz. of butter, the yolks of three eggs, and
salt and spices to taste ; three minutes after, pass it
through the sieve into a basin and smooth it with a spoon.
Mould some of the forcemeat with two table-spoons into
sixteen or eighteen quenelles, then lay them on the buttered
bottom of a flat stewpan, and put the lid on. Shape the
rest of the forcemeat into a border on an entree-disli,
cover it with buttered paper, and cook it in the oven.
Poach the quenelles in broth, take them up with a
skimmer, drain them, and arrange in circular order on
the border of forcemeat ; fill the cavity with small round
cooked truffles, pour over them a little brown sauce that
has been reduced with the trimmings of truffles and ex-
tract of Pheasant, and serve with the rest of the sauce
in a sauceboat.
Pheasant Rissoles. — Chop up fine the white meat of a
Pheasant, add to it four or five chopped mushrooms or
truffles, a small quantity (about 2 table-spoonfuls) of
sifted breadcrumbs, pepper and salt to taste, chopped
herbs and lemon-peel, \ teaspoonful of each ; mix all to a
paste with 1 table-spoonful of milk and a little white
broth. Stir it then in a saucepan over the fire for ten
minutes. Turn it out of the saucepan, mix well into it a
beaten egg, put it in a cool place, and let it stand six
hours, when it well be stiff enough to work into balls, or
whatever shape the rissoles are to be. When the rissoles
are formed, brush them over with beaten egg, roll them
in a paper of breadcrumbs, and fry in boiling lard or
dripping. When taken from the frying-pan, lay them
on kitchen paper to drain, arrange them on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Pheasant Saute. — Disjoint two young Pheasants, put them
in a saute -pan with a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley
and sweet herbs, sprinkle in a small quantity of pepper
and salt, and fry them over a moderate fire. When the
breasts and fillets are done, take them out and finish
cooking the legs. Drain the butter out of the saute-pan,
put the fillets and breasts back again, pour over them a
little melted glaze, and roll them well in it. Reduce
some brown sauce with Pheasant fumet. Prepare a purde
of apples, seasoning them with a pinch of salt and a
small quantity of sugar. Arrange the pieces of Pheasants
in a group on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and
serve with a sauceboatful of the apple puree.
Pheasant Saute with Truffles. — Pluck, singe, and draw
a Pheasant, divide the breast into two pieces, and cut off
the legs and wings. Partially fry the legs in a stewpan
with butter, then put in the wings and breasts, a small
onion, a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, and 1 or 2
pinches of pepper and salt; fry them till nicely browned,
then put the lid on the stewpan with hot ashes on it,
and finish cooking the contents by the side of the
fire. Peel and slice five or six raw truffles, and keep
them covered. Cut the back of the Pheasant into small
pieces, and put it in a stewpan with the pinions, neck
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
158
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pheasants — continued.
Pheasants — continued.
leg bones, a small piece of raw ham, and a few sliced
vegetables, and fry them over a brisk lire. Sprinkle in a
little flour to thicken the liquor, and moisten with broth
and 1 wineglassful of white wine. Stir the sauce over
the fire till boiling, then move the stewpan to the side,
put the lid on, and let the contents cook for three-quarters-
of-an-hour. Skim the fat off, and pass the sauce through
a fine hair sieve into a fiat stewpan. Put in with it the
trimmings of the truffles, and reduce it over a brisk fire,
adding gradually 1 wineglassful of sherry. When done,
strain, and keep the sauce hot. When the Pheasant 'is
nearly cooked, remove the onion and herbs, put in with
it the sliced truffles and 2 wineglassfuls of sherry, put
the lid on, and finish cooking. Place the Pheasant on a
hot dish, dividing each wing and leg in halves. Drain the
fat off the stewpan, pour the sauce over the truffles, and
boil it up; then pour it over the Pheasant, and serve.
Pheasant Soup. — Put 6oz. of sago into a stewpan with
2qts. of Pheasant broth, and boil it; then move the stew-
pan to the side of the fire. Cut the meat off a cooked
Pheasant, put it in a mortar and pound it ; mix with
it the yolks of four or five eggs; stir this into the soup,
and pass all through a fine hair sieve. Cut some macaroni
in small pieces, and boil it. Stir the soup over the fire
till hot, but do not let it boil. Put the macaroni in a
soup-tureen, pour the soup over the macaroni, and serve.
Potted Pheasant. — (1) Pluck and draw the Pheasant,
wipe it clean with a damp cloth, singe it, and season the
inside with pepper, salt, cloves, beaten mace, and grated
nutmeg. Break the breast-bones and flatten them down.
Put the bird in an earthen bowl with a large lump of !
butter, and bake it for one hour. When cooked, drain I
the Pheasant, and leave it till cold; then put it into a
large jar, the breast downwards, and pour in clarified
butter to |in. in. thickness. Tie the jar over with paper, |
and keep it in a cold place.
(2) Roast some Pheasants, and let them be rather over
than under done. Take the flesh of breast, wings, and
merrythought clean from the bones; take oft- the skin, I
mince the meat, and then pound it to a smooth paste j
with rather less than one-third of its weight of fresh
butter. Add and pound in by degrees a seasoning of
mace, cayenne, and salt. When sufficiently seasoned, press
the paste into shallow glass jars, and cover them with
butter warmed till liquid. Keep the jars in a cold place.
Fulled Pheasant. — Cut the flesh oft' the breast of a cold
roasted Pheasant, remove the skin, and pull the meat
into shreds with two forks. Prepare some cream sauce,
thickening it with breadcrumbs, and put in it the pieces
of Pheasant, warming them up in it. Score across the
legs and drumsticks of the bird, season them anti the
wings with salt and pepper, dip them in warmed butter, i
lay them on a gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire,
Fig. 207 Pulled Pheasant.
turning them when done on one side. Put the pulled
Pheasant meat and sauce on to the centre of a hot dish,
arrange the broiled limbs round it (see Fig. 207), and
serve.
Puree of Pheasant.— Singe and draw two Pheasants, put
them in a braising- pan, and braise them with 1 pint of game
broth. Take the Pheasants out when done and leave them
till cool. Strain the cooking liquor through a silk sieve,
skim the fat off, and boil the broth with double the quantity
of veloutd sauce till reduced to a creamy consistency. Chop
the meat off the Pheasants finely, first removing all the
skin and fat; put it in a mortar, and pound it, pouring
in the prepared sauce gradually. Pass this purde through
the sieve and put it in the bain-marie, when it is ready
for use.
Puree of Pheasant in a Croustade. — (1) Cut off the fillets of
three Pheasants, cut them into halves lengthwise, trim them
to a long pear shape, and lard them with thin strips of fat
bacon ; put them in a buttered saute -pan and cover them
with a sheet of buttered paper. Roast the Pheasants from
which the fillets have been taken, first covering them
with buttered paper. When done, cut off all the remain-
ing flesh, and leave it till cold. Put the meat in a
mortar and pound it with 1 table-spoonful of butter ;
dilute the puree with Spanish sauce that has been reduced
with essence of Pheasant, then pass it through a fine hair
sieve. Garnish a croustade with the puree, arrange the
fillets, cooked and glazed, in a circle on the top ; pour
the remaimder of the puree in the centre, and serve.
(2) Boil some well-washed rice in water until rather dry,
then mix a small quantity of butter with it. Sprinkle a little
water on a baking-sheet, put the rice on it, and work it
well. Butter a deep pan, put the rice in it, press it well,
and stand it on ice for several hours, placing a weight on
it to keep it compact. When ready for the croustade,
take the rice out of the pan, carve it to the desired shape,
and make a small hollow in the centre. Put the rice on
a dish, and warm it slightly in a moderate oven. Coat
the inside of the croustade with some sauce, and fill it
with a puree of Pheasant. Cut some truffles into diamond-
shaped pieces, and arrange them tastefully on the top of
the puree. Brush the truffles and puree over with a paste-
brash dipped in melted glaze, and serve.
Puree of Pheasant with Macaroni. — Put the meat of a
cooked Pheasant (cut into small pieces) in a mortar and
pound it, taking care to remove the skin and sinews. Pound
also the same quantity of rice, boiled in broth, mix it
with the meat, and pass it all through a fine hair sieve
to make the puree {see Puree). Put 3 table-spoonfuls of
butter and 6 table-spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and
stir it over the fire till well mixed, but not browned ; then
pour in k pint of broth, the bones of the Pheasant, 1 tea-
cupful of chopped vegetables, and a bunch of parsley and
sweet herbs. When boiling, move it to the side and let
it simmer for twenty-five minutes. Skim the fat oft' the
liquor, strain it, mix the puree with it, and stir it over
the fire till boiling; then season it, and pour it into a
soup-tureen. Serve the puree with boiled macaroni.
Roasted Plieasant. — (l) Singe and truss the bird, and put
inside a shallot with a lump of butter. Lard the breast,
close with thin strips of bacon, and tie a slice of bacon
over the larded part. Fix the bird before a clear but not
too fierce fire, and roast it, basting it constantly with
butter. Five minutes before taking the bird from the
fire, remove the slice of bacon and brown the larded part.
When cooked, place the bird on a hot dish, strew over it
some crumbs of bread that have been fried brown. in
butter, and serve it with a sauceboatful each of rich
brown gravy and bread sauce.
(2) When the Pheasant has hung till tender, pluck it,
putting the neck by with the skin and feathers on ; singe
and draw the bird ; preserve the feathers of the tail for
decoration after cooking. Chop tlb. of bacon with the
Pheasant’s liver and two or three cooked chickens’ livers, put
them in a mortar, pound them, and pass them through a
sieve. Stuff the bird with this preparation, trussing it to
a nice shape ; lard the breast and legs with thin strips of
bacon, and bind some paper round the legs to prevent
their breaking off. Fix the bird on the spit, put a large
slice of bread underneath it in the dripping-pan, and
roast it in front of a clear fire, basting often with a paste-
brush dipped in warmed butter. When cooked, take the
Pheasant off the spit, arrange the slices of bread out of
the dripping-pan on the dish, and stand the bird on them.
Pierce the neck of the Pheasant with an iron skewer or
wire, and insert in it a croft ton of fried biead, fixing it
on the end of the dish in such a way as to keep the head
upright; fix the tail feathers at the end of the dish, put
a nicely picked and sorted bunch of watercress each side
■ej erred to, see under their special heads.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec.,
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
159
Pheasants — continued.
of the bird, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich game
gravy.
(3) Prepare a stuffing with the flesh and liver of a
woodcock or partridge, the liver of the Pheasant, and the
inside fat ; chop them all together very finely, Jib.
of truffles cut into small squares, season with salt, pepper,
and sweet herbs, stir in the yolks of three eggs, and mix
them thoroughly. Bone a fine cock Pheasant, stuff it
with the above, and sew it up; then fix it in a cradle
spit and roast it, hasting occasionally with chablis wine.
A piece of toast should he put at the bottom of the pan
to catch the gravy. When cooked, put the Pheasant on
a hot dish, first having put the toast on, and serve with
a sauceboatful of Italian sauce, in which has been mixed
some chopped truffles.
(4) Let the Pheasant hang till tender, then pluck, draw,
and lard it carefully. Bone and draw two woodcocks,
keeping the trails separate, and throwing away the gizzards.
Chop the flesh of the woodcocks with some cooked beef
marrow ; mix with it some scraped bacon, pepper, salt,
and chopped truffles, and sweet herbs. Stuff the Pheasant
with the preparation; cut a thick slice of bread, rather
broader than the Pheasant, and put it in the dripping-pan.
Put the trails of the woodcocks in a mortar with some
truffles, an anchovy, a little scraped bacon, and a piece
of fresh butter, and pound them ; lay this thickly on the
slice of bread. Fix the Pheasant on the spit, over the
bread, and roast it. When ready, put the Pheasant on a
hot dish, and garnish with the bread cut into pieces.
(5) Prepare some young hen Pheasants, and truss them
for roasting. Prepare a forcemeat with their livers and
Jib. of suet, finely chopped, and put into a mortar with
lib. of breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt, pepper, grated
nutmeg, finely-chopped thyme and parsley, and pounded
together. Bind the mixture with three eggs, 1 wineglass-
ful each of brandy and cream, and pass it through a fine
hair sieve. Stuff the birds with the forcemeat, wrap them
in sheets of buttered paper, put them on a spit, and roast
them for three-quarters-of-an-hour in front of a clear fire.
Put loz. of glaze in a saucepan with 2 wineglassfuls of
port wine and 1 teaspoonful of sugar, and boil for three
or four minutes ; then pour in 1 qt. of essence of game,
and boil it for ten minutes longer. Skim the sauce, mix
2 table-spoonfuls of butter with it, and stir it over the
fire till it has dissolved ; then move it to the side. When
cooked, remove the paper from the birds and put them
on a hot dish, the heads to the centre, pour the sauce
over them, and serve.
(6) Singe and draw the bird and truss it, putting inside
a small lump of butter and two shallots ; lard the breast
with thin strips of bacon, and tie a slice of fat bacon
over them. Fix the bird in front of a clear moderate fire,
and baste it constantly with butter. Ten minutes before
taking the Pheasant away from the fire, remove the
bacon from the breast. Remove all the discoloured leaves
from a nice bunch of fr eshly-gathered water-cress, wash
the remainder, and shake it as free as possible from
water. Mix together some olive oil and tarragon vinegar,
the former predominating, season with salt, and pour the
mixture over the water-cress. When cooked, place the
Pheasant on a hot dish, and strew over it some bread-
crumbs that have been fried brown in butter; garnish it
with the water cress, and serve it with a sauceboatful of
rich brown gravy and a sauceboatful of bread sauce.
(7) Put 2oz. of scraped bacon and h teacupful of oil into
a stewpan with two or three cloves, a piece of mace, two
bay-leaves and half a clove of garlic, scraped ; stir the
mixture over the fire till quite hot, then strain it into
another stewpan, add ten large truffles cut into slices, and
three or four finely-chopped ones, pour in 1 qt. of white
sauce, and stir it over the fire till reduced to a thick
creamy consistence. Mix the beaten yolks of two eggs
with the mixture, then turn it on to a dish, and leave it
till cool. Stuff the breasts of some young, perfectly fresh
Pheasants with the above mixture, in such a way that
the truffles can show as much as possible under the skin.
All this should be done a week or more, according to the
weather, before the birds are wanted for dressing. Wrap
Pheasants — continued.
the birds in oiled or buttered paper, fix them on a spit,
and roast them in front of a clear fire. Put lqt. of
clear aspic jelly into a saucepan and boil it for twenty
minutes. Mix twelve sliced truffles with the reduced
aspic, add 1 wineglassful of either madeira or hock, 1
teaspoonful of sugar, and stew them for twenty minutes.
In about three-quarters-of-an-hour remove the paper from
the Pheasants and brown them lightly all over. When
cooked, put them on a hot dish, arranging them, if there
are four, in the shape of a cross, pour the prepared sauce
over, and serve them.
(8) Pluck and clean a couple of Pheasants, truss them
for roasting, lard the breasts and thighs, put them into a
deep saucepan, cover over with clear stock, add a season-
ing of allspice, mace, long peppers, and white peppers,
pour in 1 wineglassful of marsala, and stew gently until
the Pheasants are tender, which will take about ten
minutes or so. Take out the pieces, wipe them dry, dust
them over with Hour, dip them into olive-oil or hot
dripping, put them on a spit in front of a clear fire, and
roast them to a good brown, basting frequently. Place them
on a hot dish, pour round a chutney sauce, garnish with
slices of lemon and small sprays of endive ; strain the
liquor in which the birds were cooked, reduce it, and add a
little glaze, colouring, and flour (baked a deep colour) ; pour
it over the birds, and serve hot.
(9) Stuffed with Mushrooms.— Pluck, singe, and draw a
Pheasant, lard it on each side of the breast with pieces
of fat bacon, and stuff it with twelve large mushrooms,
cut into halves or quarters, and mixed up with 2oz. of
butter, salt, and cayenne to taste. Trass the bird,
cover the breast with a piece of thickly-buttered paper,
place it in front of a clear fire, and roast it for thirty
minutes, basting frequently with its own liquor. Take
off the paper, roast for ten minutes longer, place it on a
dish and serve with bread sauce in a sauceboat, and gravy
made as follows, poured over: Put loz. of butter into a
saucepan with a finely chopped onion, fry the latter
until quite brown ; add the chopped liver of the Pheasant,
1 saltspoonful of salt, sugar and mustard to taste, 1
table-spoonful of ketchup, and 3 teacupfuls of stock ; boil
for thirty minutes, and strain before using. A little flour
may be added to thicken if required.
Roasted Pheasants served a la Royale. — Carefully roast two
young Pheasants, and whilst they are cooking, stew gently
in some veal stock, several turned truffles, cocks’ combs, and
button mushrooms. Prepare also ten small timbales of
Pheasant or other game forcemeat. Prepare also a fried
bread crofiton (see Fig. 208), and fasten this on a hot dish
with white of egg. When the Pheasants are done, arrange
them nicely, feet uppermost, against the narrow ends of the
croft ton. Set the ten timbales, five on each side, at the
base of the broad side of the croft ton, and then cover up
the broad sides of it from the timbales right up to the
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160
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pheasants — continued.
top with a tastefully arranged mixture of cocks’ combs,
truffles, and button mushrooms; set also round the fronts
of the Pheasants from one row of timbales to the other
a ring of neatly turned truffles. On the top of the crouton,
supported neatly between the legs of the Pheasants, set a
gilt paste or metal crown filled in its centre with the
truffle, mushroom, and cock’s comb mixture (see Fig. 209).
Some cooks prefer to garnish with crown atelettes, decorated
with truffles, cocks’ combs, and mushrooms, or in any other
way that may be selected or convenient.
Salmis of Pheasant. — (1) Cut off the flesh of a cold roast
Pheasant, remove the skin, and trim each piece nicely ;
put the bones and trimmings in a stewpan with two
shallots, a clove of garlic, a laurel-leaf, the grated rind of
half a lemon, and a small piece of meat glaze ; moisten
with 1 pint of white wine and 1 table-spoonful of rich
gravy. Stew the whole gently until the sauce has suffi-
ciently reduced, then strain it through a fine hair sieve.
Return it to the saucepan, put in the pieces of Pheasant
flesh, and make them hot without boiling the sauce again.
Arrange the meat on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of an
orange into the sauce, pour it round the meat, garnish
with sippets of toast or cro ft tons of bread that have been
fried brown in butter, and serve while very hot.
(2) Cut up a cold roasted Pheasant, put it into a stew-
pan with 3 table-spoonfuls of Italian olive-oil, 2 wine-
glassfuls of wine, the juice and grated peel of half a
lemon, and salt and pepper to taste, and stir the whole
over the fire until hot but not boiling. Arrange the
meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, garnish with
sippets of toast or crofttons of fried bread, and serve.
(3) Prepare a rich game sauce, thickening it well with
glaze and game jelly. Carve nicely a cold roasted Pheasant,
dip the pieces into the sauce, giving them a good coating,
and lay each piece as it is done on a dish, pouring what
is left of the sauce round them. Leave until the sauce
has got cold and jellied, then garnish with crofttons of
aspic jelly, and serve.
(4) Wrap some thin slices of fat bacon round a trussed
Pheasant ( see Barding), and put it in a stewpan with
the neck and gizzard, some trimmings of ham and scraped
bacon ; fry it for fifteen minutes over a slow fire, then put
in a bunch of sweet herbs, some trimmings of truffles, and
1 wineglassful of white wine. When it boils, move the
stewpan to the side of the fire. Fry the liver of the
Pheasant and a few poultry livers in butter, season them,
and leave them to cool; then put the livers in a mortar,
and pound them with a piece of butter. Moisten the liver
paste with a little game sauce, and pass it through a fine
hair sieve. When the Pheasant is cooked, drain and un-
truss, cut it into eight pieces, trim off all the skin, glaze
the pieces, and keep them warm. Put the body, bones,
and trimmings of the Pheasant, pounded, into the stewpan
whence it was taken, having previously drained off the fat.
Add | wineglassful of Madeira and 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls
of gravy, and boil it for five or six minutes, then pass it
through a sieve. Mix the liver puree with the gravy,
adding at the same time 3 table-spoonfuls of minced
truffles that have just been cooked, and stir it over the
fire till boiling. Place the pieces of Pheasant on a hot dish,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Pheasants — continued.
pour the sauce over them, garnish with crofttons of fried
bread, and serve.
Souffle of Pheasant. — (1) Cut the flesh from the breast of a
cooked Pheasant into small pieces, put them in a mortar
with the fried liver - of the Pheasant, and pound them ;
then mix with them half their quantity of dry boiled rice,
and pound again. Mix with the preparation 3 table-
spoonfuls of brown sauce that has been reduced with the
trimmings of the Pheasant and some truffle trimmings,
season with pepper and salt, and pass all through a fine
hair sieve ; put the mixture in a saucepan, stir it over the
fire till warm, then take it off and add gradually the
beaten yolks of six eggs, and 3oz. of butter, broken in little
bits, and work it quickly for three minutes. Butter a
souffle-mould, and fill it half-way up with the preparation.
Cut a strip of paper out 2in. wide, then put it round the
interior of the mould, allowing half of it to come above
the rim ; then fill the mould with the rest of the mixture,
stand it on a baking-sheet, surround it with ashes, and
bake the souffle for twenty-five minutes in a slow oven.
Take the mould out of the oven, put it on a hot dish,
and serve at once.
(2) Skin and bone a roasted Pheasant, put the meat and
liver, if the bird was not too high to use the liver,
into a mortar, and pound them ; put the meat in a sauce-
pan with some rich gravy, and stir it over the fire till hot,
but do not let it boil. Break the bones of the Pheasant
into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a little
gravy, and stew them gently. Strain the gravy from the
bones, stir in a little butter and flour that has been worked
together, and a small quantity of glaze, and stir it over
the fire till thick; then add a lump of plain butter, a
small quantity of grated nutmeg, and the yolks of four
eggs. Pass the puree of Pheasant-meat through a hair
sieve, mix it with the sauce, add the whites of two eggs
that have been beaten stiff, but do not let the sauce boil
after the eggs have been added. Fill some soufllft cases
with the preparation, and bake it in an oven for twenty
minutes or till it rises, then serve at once.
(3) Mince very fine the meat of a Pheasant, that has not
been cooked, by putting it through a sausage-machine twice,
mix with it Jib. of sifted breadcrumbs and h pint of strong
stock, put it over the fire in a stewpan, and boil it till it
will come clean from the pan. Take it from the fire
and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs, 1 table-spoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, two truffles finely chopped, six
mushrooms finely chopped, and a seasoning of pepper and
salt. Line a souffle -mould with buttered paper. Beat the
whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and when the mixture
is cold beat them lightly into it, pour it into the mould,
and bake it. Serve it in the mould it is baked in, with a
hot napkin pinned round it.
Stewed Pheasants. — (1) Lard two Pheasants with strips of
bacon, having previously trussed them as for boiling. Line
a stewpan with bacon, put the birds in, and sprinkle over
them some mixed spices, pepper and salt ; cover them with
slices of bacon, pour in sufficient white wine and stock,
mixed in equal quantities, to cover them, put the lid on
the stewpan, and let the contents simmer by the side of
the fire for two hours. Drain the Pheasants when cooked,
put them on a hot dish, without the slices of bacon, pour
some game sauce over, and serve.
(2) Truss a Pheasant as for roasting, stuff the crop with
forcemeat, and flour it. Place the bird in a stewpan with
about 2oz. of butter, and fry it till lightly browned. Put
in the stewpan four or five small onions, cut into pieces, and
| pint of strong well-seasoned gravy ; put the lid on the
stewpan, and cook the bird slowly for three-quarters-of-an-
bour or till tender. When done, take the Pheasant out
and keep it hot whilst the gravy is being prepared. Strain
the cooking-liquor through a fine hair sieve, put it in a
saucepan, skim off the fat, mix in with it a little butter
rolled in flour, and stir it over the fire till boiling. Lay
the Pheasant on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and
serve.
(3) Cut a Pheasant up as it is carved at table, put the
pieces into a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them
.ces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
1- — Port Glasses.
2. — Soda-and-Brandy Glasses.
3. - Champagne Glasses.
DRINKING-GLASSES.
4. — Liqueur Stand and Glasses.
5. — Sherry Glasses.
6- — Hock and Claret Glasses.
Silver-mounted Horn Drinking-cup.
8. — German Bock (Ale) Glass.
9. — Ale Glasses.
10.— Venetian Ale Glasses.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL COOKERY.
161
Pheasants — continued.
until slightly browned ; then pour 1 pint of rich brown
gravy over them, and put in two or three slices of ham,
a few mushrooms, a couple of hay-leaves, and 1 wineglass-
ful of sherry. Put the lid on the stewpan and keep the
contents simmering slowly for about two hours. When
cooked, lay the pieces of Pheasant on a hot dish, strain
their gravy over them, and serve.
Stewed Pheasant a la Piedmontese. — Draw, singe, and
divide two young Pheasants into live or six pieces each.
Put the necks, gizzards, leg-hones, and hacks into a stew-
pan with a little water, and boil them to make a gravy.
Skim the fat oft'; reduce and thicken the liquor with
game sauce. Put the legs into a flat stewpan with a
piece of butter, and partially fry them. When the legs
are half done, put in with them the breasts and wings,
Goz. of lean ham cut in small squares, two small sliced
onions, and a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs ; put the
lid on the stewpan and some live coals on the top of the
lid, and finish cooking the Pheasants, turning them occa-
sionally. Take the pieces of Pheasants out when cooked,
put them on a plate, trim them, and remove the drum-
sticks from the legs; drain the butter out of the stewpan,
pour in the prepared gravy, and let it simmer for two or
three minutes ; take out the onions and aromatics, put
the pieces of Pheasant in, stand the stewpan at the
side of the tire, and let them heat gently without boiling.
In the meantime, prepare a border of rice, made in the
following manner : Put a chopped onion into a stewpan
with a little melted beef marrow, and fry it ; wash and
drain lOoz. of rice, put it in with the onion, and stir it
over the fire till warm ; then moisten to double its height
until broth, and boil it dry of moisture. Mix with the
rice when done 4oz. of grated Parmesan cheese and 5oz.
of butter, turn it into a border-mould, and keep it for a
few minutes in a warm place. Turn the border of rice
on to a hot dish, fill the hollow with slices of raw white
Piedmont truffles ; arrange over these the legs of the
Pheasants, putting the breasts and wings on the top ;
mask them with a little of the sauce, and serve with the
rest in a sauceboat.
Stewed Pheasants a la Royale. — Truss two young
Pheasants as for boiling, lard the thickest part of their
breasts in a square, put them into a stewpan that has been
lined with thin slices of fat bacon, with two large onions,
two or three cloves, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves,
and sufficient white stock to reach the larded part of the
birds ; cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and
stew them gently for an hour. Finely chop the livers of
the birds with jib. of beef-suet, put them in a mortar
with 111), of breadcrumbs, 1 table-spoonful of chopped
thyme and parsley, a small quantity of grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper, and pound them; bind the mixture with
four well-beaten eggs, and pass it through a fine hair
sieve. Cut two thick pieces of bread, toast them, spread
them with the prepared stuffing, lay them in a buttered
saute -pan, and bake them for twenty minutes. Pound the
flesh of the remains of some cold cooked game in a mortar,
then put it in a stewpan with 4 table-spoonful of chopped
shallots, and a small piece of butter ; stir them over the
fire for a few minutes, then pour in Iqt. of demi- glaze
of game and 1 teacupful of white stock. Boil the sauce
for ten minutes, then pass it through a fine hair sieve
into a clean stewpan, and season with salt, pepper, and
£ teaspoonful of sugar. If too thick, the sauce can be
thinned with a little broth. Warm it up again, but do
not let it boil. Trim the pieces of toast to a nice shape,
place them on a hot dish; glaze the larded parts of the
birds, lay one on each piece of toast, pour the sauce
round them, and serve.
Stewed Pheasant served with Chestnut Puree. — Pluck,
draw, and singe a Pheasant, fry the liver till firm, put it
in a mortar with double its quantity of chopped bacon,
and pound it. Stuff the Pheasant with the mixture, and
truss it ; lard the breast and legs with bacon. Put at the
bottom of a stewpan some trimmings of ham and finely-
chopped bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little salt ;
put in the bird, moisten it to the height of the legs with
Pheasants — continued.
white wine and broth mixed in equal quantities, and boil
till the liquor is reduced to about half ; then move the
stewpan to the side of the fire, put hot ashes on the
lid, and let the contents simmer gently, basting the
Pheasant occasionally with its own cooking- stock. When
the bird is cooked, brush it with a paste-brush dipped in
melted coloured glaze. Have ready a chestnut puree, put
it on a hot dish ; drain, and untruss the Pheasant, and
put it on the puree ; pass the cooking liquor through a
fine hair sieve, skim ott- the fat, pour it over the Pheasant,
and serve.
Stewed Pheasants with Lettuce. — Singe and draw two
young Pheasants, and truss them as for boiling : lard the
best part of the breast in the form of a square. Put some
thin slices of fat bacon into a stewpan, put in the Pheasants,
the breast upwards, with some blanched cabbage lettuces,
two large onions, each stuck with two cloves, a bunch of
parsley, and two bay- leaves; pour in enough white stock
to reach the larded part of the Pheasants, lay six pork
sausages on the top, and cover them with a sheet of
buttered paper. Put the lid on the stewpan, and cook the
birds gently for an hour. When cooked, glaze and salamander
the breasts of the birds. Take the sausages and lettuces
carefully out, and rest them on paper till the grease has
drained off. Put two large pieces of lettuce in the centre
of a hot dish, put a bird on each, and with the remainder
chopped small make a flat border round the edge of the
dish; slit the sausages into two pieces each, and arrange
Fig. 210. Stewed Pheasants with Lettuces.
them on the border of lettuce (see Fig. 210). Pass the cooking-
liquor through a fine hair sieve into a clean stewpan,
skim off all the fat, mix 14 pints of brown sauce with it,
and boil it quickly till reduced to a demi-glaze ; stir
4 teaspoonful of sugar in with it, pour the sauce over the
birds, and serve them.
Stewed Pheasant with Peas. — Cut some cold remains of
roast Pheasant into convenient-sized pieces. Peel and
slice an onion, put it into a stewpan with loz. of butter,
and toss it over the fire until cooked, but do not brown
it. Dredge the onion over with a small quantity of flour,
put in the pieces of Pheasant with another lump of butter,
season to taste with salt and pepper, and fry them for a
few minutes ; then put hi a small tin of preserved peas,
moisten with a small quantity of stock, and put in also
a slice of bacon and some finely-minced parsley. Keep
the whole simmering gently at the side of the fire for
half-an-hour. When cooked, remove the bacon, turn the
Pheasant on to a hot dish, garnish it with crofitons of
fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve.
Stewed Pheasant with Sourcrout. — Put 21b. of sour-
crout, previously washed, into a stewpan with lOoz. of
goose fat and 12oz. of washed and blanched salt pork,
pour in 4 pint of broth, close the stewpan hermetically,
putting live embers on the lid, and let the contents simmer
over a moderate fire. Get a well-hung fat Pheasant,
pluck, draw, and truss it, put it in a stewpan with a
little goose fat, and fry it over a brisk fire till nicely
browned. Put six dozen oysters in a stewpan with 1
wineglassful of white wine ; when bubbling, drain them,
preserving their liquor. Refresh them by dipping them in
cold water; beard, and keep them covered in the stew-
pan. Mix with the liquor of the oysters a little good
broth, and slightly thicken it with flour worked in butter.
After the sourcrout has been cooking two-hours-and-a-
half, mix with it 1 tumblerful of champagne ; lialf-an-hour
later, put the coloured Pheasant in with the sourcrout,
and cook it for one hour longer. When done, drain the
VOL. II.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads.
M
162
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pheasants — continued.
Pheasant, 1 toil the moisture of the sourcrout till reduced
hy evaporation, and pour in with it some of the prepared
sauce, and the oysters. Place it on a hot dish, leaving a
cavity in the centre, fill it with the pork cut in slices,
put the Pheasant, previously cut into six or seven pieces,
on it, brush it over with a paste-brush dipped in melted
glaze, and serve.
Stewed Pheasant with Truffles, served Cold. — Bone a
Pheasant, being careful not to break the skin, and stuff
it with sliced truffles. Line a stewpan with slices of fat
bacon, put in the bird, and cover it with more slices of
fat bacon, moistening it with a small quantity of highly
seasoned veal stock ; put the lid on the pan, and keep the
contents simmering very gently. When the bird is cooked,
take it out of the pan and leave it until cold. When ready
to serve, place it on a dish, and garnish it with croutons
of aspic jelly, hard-boiled eggs that have been cut into
various shapes, and sliced gherkins.
PICCALILLI. — See Pickles.
PICKERELS. — See Pike.
PICKLE. — The name usually given in this country
to the liquor in which substances used for food are
soaked in order to give them certain flavours, or to assist
in their preservation. These are commonly known to
French cooks as Marinades, under which heading some
special receipts will be found. The butcher preserves
meat in Bkine, which is described under that head. The
preservation of vegetables and fruit is described under
Pickles, but the following receipts for the manufacture
of pickling liquor used by the British cook for various
purposes, will be found useful :
(1) For Beep or Brawn. — Dissolve 9qts. of salt in
18galls. of water, and add 21b. of coarse brown sugar and
Jib. of saltpetre. Boil and skim well. Let the beef get
thoroughly cold and firm after killing, and let as much as
possible of the blood drain out before putting it in the
pickle. The brine should be boiled up and skimmed now
and again, then it will last for many months, and suffice
at one tune to pickle about half of an ordinary ox.
(2) Put in a large copper pan ljlb. of common salt, Jib.
of bay-salt, 6oz. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 table-
spoonful of saltpetre, eight peppercorns, and lgall. of
water. Stir the ingredients to thoroughly mix them, then
boil them for twenty minutes, skimming them constantly.
When quite cold, pour the pickle over the beef, and turn
and baste it well every day for two weeks.
(3) To 2galls. of water add 2Jlb. of salt, Jib. of brown
sugar, and 2oz. of saltpetre. Boil it for two hours, skim-
ming off all the scum as it rises. Let it get cold, and
then put the meat into it. It will keep good for four or
five months if boiled every month.
(4) For Hams. — For a large ham allow Jib. of bay-salt,
4oz. of common salt, and loz. each of saltpetre and black
pepper. Rub the ham well with this mixture, once or
twice' every day for four days. At the end of that time,
pom- Jib. of treacle over the ham, rubbing it well in.
Leave it for a month, nibbing and turning constantly.
Afterwards soak the ham in cold water for one day and
night, then hang it up to dry. When cooked, the ham
should be put in cold water and placed over a slow fire.
(5) Put in a stone pickling pan lib. of coarse salt, lib.
of brown sugar, Jib. of bay-salt, loz. of saltpetre, and
loz. of salt-prunella, and mix these together; then rub it
in the hams and let them lie in the pickle for a fortnight,
turning and rubbing them every day. At the end of that
tune, pour over the ham or hams 1J pints of hot ale, and
keep it in the pickle for a month, turning it frequently.
It will then be ready for smoking, or may be cooked
green.
(6) Mix together lib. each of coarse sugar and salt, also
loz. of saltpetre. Leave the ham in this for fourteen
days, rubbing well, and turning it. over daily. After-
wards roll it in sawdust, and smoke for fourteen days.
(7) For Pork. — Put in a boiler as much water as will
Fickle — continued.
well cover the pork. When it boils, mix in salt by
degrees. To ascertain whether there is enough salt in the
water, put an egg in, and when it floats, there is suffi-
cient. Pour the brine in an earthenware jar and let it
cool. It is then ready to pour over the pork.
(8) For Tongue. — Crush Jib. of common salt with 2oz.
of saltpetre, and mix them with lib. of treacle. When
the tongue is prepared, rub it over with the above mix-
ture. It should be kept in pickle for a fortnight, being
turned and well rubbed occasionally.
(9) For Mackerel. — For 1 pint of vinegar allow J tea-
cupful of beer, three bay-leaves, Joz. of ground allspice,
and Joz. each of salt and pepper, also J teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper. Mix all these ingredients together and
pour them over the fish. A sufficient quantity of pickle
should be made to completely cover the fish.
(10) For Salmon. — Mix with lqt. of the cooking liquor
of the fish f pint of vinegar, four blades of mace, four
bay-leaves, three pieces of whole ginger, Joz. each of black
pepper and allspice, and a small quantity of salt. Boil
the liquor for a little over half-an-hour, then pour it over
the fish, which should be laid in a deep dish or jar, and
cover it with another dish to keep the air out.
FICKLES. — No other people in the world seem to
have such a craving for Pickles, as the British. Kettner
says of Pickles generally: “We should be sorry for those
who have to eat Pickles. The craving for this condiment
usually implies a sickly digestion and a jaded appetite.
It also implies had cookery — being the substitute for
a sauce .which the cook ought to provide.” But since
Pickles we must have, it is desirable that they should
be good ; and it is a sad thing to chronicle that the craft
of making good Pickles is departing from England.
This country used to make the most wonderful mixed
Pickles ; and the name for them, together with the square
green English bottle, has gone abroad over the earth.
In the deserts of Arabia, and in the mountains of
the Moon, the forlorn traveller has lighted on empty
bottles of Day and Martin’s blacking and of Crosse and
Blackwell’s Pickles, and his heart has rejoiced at eve,
as Mungo Park did over a solitary flower in the burning
wastes of Africa. The best mixed Pickles, even those
of the great magicians of Soho, Crosse and Blackwell,
are now made with a woebegone compound called Pic-
calilli. The good old sorts are neglected ; and the best
English Pickles of that kind come at present from Bordeaux
(from Louis Freres et Compagnie), in bottles of English
shape, and with the English name of Mixed Pickles. Why
is this ? One cause may be excess of competition — leading
to lowering of price, cheapening of vinegar, and general
deterioration. But another, and even more powerful
cause, is to be found in a transition of English taste.
Indian pickles — strange irrecognisable compounds con-
fused with curry, an amazing jumble of hot, sweet, sour,
and bitter things — have come into fashion. Manu-
facturers, even those who, like Crosse and Blackwell,
take the highest rank, truckling to this fashion, turn
their chief skill to put an Oriental tinge on their mixed
Pickles ; and when they affect to produce these in all
their original simplicity, they do so almost as if the old
English receipt were no longer worthy of respect. The
favour which has been recently shown to the French
Pickles of Louis Freres et Compagnie ought to teach
them a lesson. Although it is probable that some
epicures may agree with Kettner, it is equally certain
that the British appetite will never cease to appreciate
a slice of cold meat and Pickles. A variety of Pickles
are given in the following receipts, and many others will
be found described under special headings; but unless
made at home or by reliable firms, it must always
be doubtful of what they are made, in spite of
fancy names. The word Pickle is derived from a Danish
word, Pekel, which is supposed to be the diminutive of
tb,e word Pick or Peck, which might either refer to the
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , Ac. , referred to. see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
163
Pickles — continued.
selection of the materials or the mode of preparing them
by pricking with a fork as if pecked. Home-made Pickles
are always the best, greater care being generally bestowed
upon the preparation, and better materials selected.
Large vegetables must be cut into small pieces, and for
Fig. 211. Vegetable-Slicer for Pickles.
this purpose an ordinary knife may be used on a chopping
board; or a knife fastened at the point to a swivel pin
set into a piece of stout board (see Fig. 211) will be
found expeditious in its working.
A very important part of pickling is the salting or
brining, which should be thoroughly effected, or the
Pickles will be soft and flabby. Some Pickles are merely
covered with salt, having been freely pricked with a fork,
as in the case of green walnuts ; others are soaked in
strong brine, and in order to soak them effectually
they should be placed in an earthen crock, three-parts
filled with brine, with an inverted plate laid over them
and a brick on the top of the plate (see Fig. 212).
When Pickles are served at table it is usual to put a
small quantity in a flat glass dish, and place by their
side a fork (see Fig. 213) of silver or electro-plate.
When served in jars, however wide the mouths may be.
Fig. 213. Pickle-fork Adams and Son).
considerable difficulty is usually experienced in securing
the particular Pickle desired by the consumer.
American Mixed Pickles. — Procure seventy-five small
cucumbers and 1 pint of small martinoes, and wipe them
with a damp cloth. Cut the cucumbers lengthwise into
quarters, and the martinoes into halves. Scald arid peel
1 pint of button onions, wash one small cauliflower, a
quarter of the rind of a water-melon, and K pints of
green string beans. Break the cauliflower into small
pieces, and cut the melon-rind about the size of the
pieces of cucumber. Dissolve 3 teacupfuls of salt in 2qts. of
cold water, put the pickles in a large earthen vessel, and
Pickles— continued.
pour the brine over them, adding more cold water if not
sufficient to cover them. Put a plate over the Pickles,
with a weight on the top, to keep them under the brine.
In two days, take the Pickles out of the brine and wash
them in cold water. Wash and scrape 2oz. of horseradish-
root. Pack the Pickles and horseradish-root in a firkin.
Tie in a bag \ table-spoonful of white mustard-seed,
4 table-spoonful of stick cinnamon broken into ^in. lengths,
h table-spoonful of whole cloves, 1 teaspoonful of pepper-
corns, 1 teaspoonful each of allspice and whole mace, and
h teaspoonful of celery seed. Put the bag of spices and,
ioz. of alum in a porcelain kettle (earthenware jar will
do as well), pour in lqt. of white wine vinegar, and boil
them for ten minutes. Skim it carefully, then pour in lqt.
of boiling water, and turn all at once over the Pickles,
leaving the bag of spices on the top. Put a plate with a
weight on it over them to keep them under the vinegar,
and stand the vessel in a cool place. In two weeks add
1 wineglassful of brandy. The Pickles will be ready to
use in a montri.
Trench Pickles. — Slice I peck of green tomatoes, cover them
plentifully with salt, and leave them for one night. Cut
\ peck of onions into slices, and put a thick layer of them
in a bell-metal kettle ; then put in a layer of tomatoes,
next a layer of onions, and so on till all are used. Sprinkle
between each layer some of the following spices : 4oz. of
white mustard-seed, loz. each of cloves, allspice, and celery-
seed, and 1 table-spoonful of cayenne pepper ; add also lib.
of brown sugar and 4 table-spoonfuls of mixed mustard.
Cover the above ingredients with vinegar, and boil them
well for one hour. At the end of that time, pack the
Pickles in jars and pour the vinegar over them. When
the Pickles are quite cold, tie some stout paper over the
jars, and put them away for use in a dry store cupboard.
German Pickle. — (1) Put 1 pint of vinegar into a sauce-
pan with 41b. of crushed loaf sugar, two or three sticks of
cinnamon, and 1 teaspoonful of cloves ; boil the vinegar
till reduced to a syrup, then drop in one at a time lib.
of damsons that have been carefully picked over and
wiped. As the skins of the damsons crack, take them
out and put them into stone or earthenware jars, filling
them three-parts full. When all are done, strain the
syrup, pour it over the damsons, and leave them till cold ;
then cover the jars with paper, tying it tightly round
them, and pack them in a dry cupboard.
(2) Take 71b. of fruit — peaches, pears, damsons, plums,
or cherries will do. If damsons or plums are to be pickled,
they must lie pricked with a coarse needle to prevent
their skins bursting. If pears are chosen, they should be
small sized and firm in flesh, they need only be pared.
Boil together in a saucepan lqt. of vinegar, 31b. of brown
sugar, loz. of stick cinnamon, 4oz. of cloves, and half-a-
dozen blades of mace, and pour it boiling hot over the
fruit ; then fasten a cover tightly over it and let it stand
twenty-four hours. Pour the liquor off, boil it, and pour
it again over the fruit. Next day, put fruit and all over
the fire, scald it, and it is done. This Pickle should be
kept in a dry cool place.
Green Pickles. — (1) Make a brine of salt and water, so
salt that a fresh egg will float in it, put into it the
vegetables to be pickled, green tomatoes, gherkins, snap-
beans, cucumbers, green foxgrapes, &c., and let them
remain in it for a fortnight (a longer time will not hurt
them). They must be kept well covered with grape-leaves,
and sufficient weight must be put on the top to keep
them well down in the brine. When the vegetables are
taken out of this brine they must be steeped in weak
vinegar for several days, then put over the fire in 2qts.
of strong vinegar (which quantity will be sufficient for
4 peck of vegetables), 2oz. of long pepper, 2oz. of mustard-
seed, loz. of celery-seed, hoz. of cloves, 4oz. of mace, three
red pepper- pods, 1 dessert-spoonful of scraped horseradish,
and sugar to taste ; when this boils, have the Pickles
drained from the weak vinegar and put into jars, and
pour the vinegar over them boiling hot.
(2) Take nice medium-sized cucumbers, pour over them
boiling hot sufficient strong brine to cover them, and let
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pickles — continued.
them stand for three days. On the fourth morning, drain
off the brine, pour boiling water over them without any
salt, and let them stand. The fifth morning drain the
water off, anil cover them with boiling water again, adding
a lump of alum about the size of a walnut. Drain them
again on the sixth morning, again pour over them suffi-
cient boiling water to cover them, and add a smaller lump
of alum than on the preceding day. The seventh morning
pour off the water, drain the Pickles well, dry them, and
put them into jars. Prepare sufficient cider vinegar to
cover the Pickle, adding to each quart 2oz. of sugar, 2
drachms each of cloves, black pepper, and stick cinnamon.
Put the vinegar and spices over the fire, and when it
boils pour it boiling hot over the Pickles in the jar. Put
on the top of the Pickles in each jar three onions, three
cloves of garlic, and a good-sized horseradish, before pour-
ing in the boiling vinegar. Let the Pickles stand in a warm
place for three days, stirring occasionally from the bottom.
Honolulu Pickle. — Put 4lb. of sugar into a pan with
4 pints of vinegar, 1 table spoonful each of cloves and
cinnamon, and boil them ; then put in as many melons
as the vinegar will cover, and boil them for fifteen minutes.
Put the melons in jars, pour the vinegar over them, and
leave till the next day. Strain the vinegar off the
melons, boil it up again, and pour it over the melons.
Boil the vinegar every day till the melons are done.
After the last boiling leave the Pickles till cold, then
cover the jars with stout paper, tie them down, anil pack
away in a dry store cupboard for use.
Indian Pickle. — (1) Cut a small white-hearted cabbage in
fine shreds or thin slices ; slice a few turnips, carrots, and
onions ; tear a small cauliflower into small branches ; throw
them all into boiling brine, and let them remain in it two
minute's, not longer : then drain them well in a colander,
and place them in a warm place till they shrivel. Put
lgall. of vinegar over the fire, together with 2oz. of
mustard flour, blended smooth in a little of the vinegar
anil stirred smoothly into the whole, 4oz. of horseradish,
2oz. each of whole ginger and long pepper, and a few
shallots. Put the shrivelled vegetables into a stone jar,
and pour the spiced vinegar boiling hot over them.
(2) Add to lgall. of the best white wine vinegar l|oz.
each of salt and bruised ginger, |oz. of cloves, Joz. each
of white pepper, long pepper, black pepper, and mace, and
1 drachm of cayenne. Put the vinegar at the side of the
fire, and let the spice steep in it for two or three days ;
then put it over the fire, and when nearly boiling add to
it Jib. of mustard and loz. of turmeric blended quite
smooth with a small quantity of cold vinegar. Put this
Pickle into a jar, and add to it from time to time as they
come into season garlic, capsicum, nasturtium, horseradish,
green-peaches, young hard apples, half-grown shallots,
white turnip radishes, small onions, French beans, gherkins,
very small carrots, and cauliflowers or broccoli pulled into
small pieces. Take care to dry thevegetables thoroughly before
adding them to the Pickle, and keep the jar closely tied
down.
Mixed Pickles. — (1) Mix in equal quantities some small
cucumbers, sliced green tomatoes, cauliflower picked into
small flowerets, and small button onions.. Put them in a
large vessel, cover them with strongly-salted water, and
let them steep for twenty -four hours. At the end of that
time, drain the brine off the Pickles, scald it, and dissolve
in it a piece of alum the size of a nutmeg. Pour the boil-
ing brine over the Pickles. When cold, strain the brine
off, and prepare as many quarts of vinegar as there are
quarts of brine. To each quart of vinegar allow 1 break-
fast-cupful of brown sugar, 1 teacupful of flour, and Jib.
of ground mustard. Boil the sugar and vinegar. Mix the
flour and mustard smoothly with a very little water, then
stir the boiling vinegar gradually into it. When quite
smooth, pour it over the Pickles. When cold, tie the jar
over with stout paper.
(2) Procure in equal quantities, gherkins, the smallest
vegetable-marrows, the same of melons, water-melons, and
pumpkins, also half the quantity more of button onions.
Scald them, drain them, prick them in several places with
a wooden needle, and put all together in a stone jar; pour
For details respecting Culinary Processes,
Pickles — continued.
in sufficient of the best white vinegar to cover them, put
a plate over the top, and leave them for nearly three weeks.
At the end of that time they will be fit for use. If kept
for any length of time, the vinegar should be changed every
four or five days.
(3) Cut 3qts. of cucumbers into slices, separate the branches
of three cauliflowers, and peel 3 pints of small onions.
Put the vegetables into a large vessel, and pour over them
sufficient water to cover, putting in 4 table-spoonfuls of
salt for lgall. of water. Let the vegetables steep all night,
and on the following morning put them with the water
into a lined pan, and heat them gently over the fire. When
very hot, but not quite boiling, drain the Wider off, and
let the vegetables stand until cool. Mix in 3qts. of
vinegar, l|oz. each of curry -powder, turmeric, and ground
ginger, 3oz. of mustard, 1| teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper,
and a scant teacupful of salad-oil. Place this mixture over
the fire until on the point of boiling. Put the Pickles in
large glass jars or bottles, and pour the vinegar over them.
When quite cold, cover the jars with parchment and tie
them down.
Mustard Pickles. — This name is given to a variety of
Pickles containing mustard ; several receipts of this kind
will be found amongst those here given.
Piccalilli. — (1) Bruise Jib. of mustard seed, put it into a
saucepan with 3 pints of vinegar, and boil it, then move
it from the fire and let it get cold. Cut Jib. of ginger
into slices, separate Jib. of garlic into cloves, put them
into a jar with |oz. each of turmeric and whole pepper,
and a small quantity of saffron. Strain the vinegar, boil
it up again, and pour it while boiling over the contents
of the jar; then cover the jar close, and leave it until the
vinegar is cold. Prepare whatever vegetables may have
been selected for the Pickle, wash them well, rub them
over with salt, and dry them in the sun for a day or two.
When ready, put the vegetables in the vinegar, cover and
tie the jar over with parchment, and put it in a dry
store cupboard. In about six months the Pickle will be
ready for use.
(2) Cut 1| pecks of green tomatoes into slices, with one
dozen moderate sized onions, and six green peppers ; lay
them on a deep dish, strew over them 1| breakfast-cupfuls
of salt, and leave them all night. On the following
morning put them on a sieve to drain as much as
possible, then put them into an enamelled saucepan with
fib. of moist sugar, a heaped table-spoonful each of cloves,
turmeric, peppercorns, and allspice, and sufficient cold
vinegar to cover them. When boiling, move the saucepan
to the side of the fire and keep the contents simmering
for about one hour. Put the Pickle into jars and let it
get cold, then cover with stout paper, tie them down, and
put them away in a dry store-cupboanl.
(3) Prepare one dozen large green tomatoes, one dozen
good-sized light -coloured cucumbers, one dozen onions, one
dozen large green bell peppers, and a head of white cabbage,
firm and solid. Scrape out the seeds from the peppers,
cucumbers, and tomatoes, and then cut tomatoes, cucum-
bers, onions, peppers, and cabbage into square pieces, as
nearly as possible of an equal size. Place them over the
fire, cover with a weak brine, and cook gently until they
look clear and are just tender without being soft. Take
them from the fire, strain the water off, and drain. Put
over the fire sufficient cider vinegar to cover the Pickles,
put into it loz. of mace, one dozen cloves, 2oz. of stick
cinnamon, 2 table-spoonfuls of mustard blended with 2
table-spoonfuls of light coloured liquid turmeric, cayenne
pepper to taste, and sufficient loaf sugar to temper the
acid of the vinegar, and let it boil up well. Have the
Pickles well mixed and in the jars, and pour this over
them. In a few days this Pickle will be ready for use.
A dozen fresh juicy peaches boiled in the vinegar with
the spices improves the flavour.
Spanish Pickle. — Cut or pull in pieces the flower of a
small head of cauliflower, and cut in pieces, about lin.
lone, eighteen large white cucumbers. If the cucumbers
are ° 'fresh, let them steep in weak brine for twenty-four
hours; but if they have been kept in brine, soak them
referred to, see under their special heads.
Utensils, Sauces, <5cc.,
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pickles — continued.
for three days in pure cold water before cutting them up.
Put the pieces of cucumber and cauliflower over the fire
in water with a little salt in it, and let them simmer
gently for twenty minutes. Cut twelve small onions in
quarters, put them in a little fresh milk-and-water over
the fire, add a little salt, and let them cook till just
tender, but not soft. Let cucumbers, cauliflower, and
onions drain till next day, together with four bell peppers
that have been steeped in weak brine for twelve or
fourteen hours. Next day put them all into a pan, with toz.
eacli of light coloured turmeric, celery seed rolled, and
white mustard, 2oz. of the best English table mustard,
and 1 saltspoonful of prepared cornflour blended with a
little vinegar, and |lb. of loaf sugar. Add sufficient
vinegar to cover, and let it boil till it begins to thicken.
Let it cool a little, and then put it into glass jars with
glass tops.
PICNICS (Fr. Pique-niques ; Ger. Picknicken). —
Etymologists appear to have been in great doubt as to
the origin and meaning of this word. It is of purely
English origin, taking its rise from the word pick or peek,
and knick, or knack — signifying literally to peck at knick-
knacks, or trifles, or, in other words, to partake of a light
repast or snack ; the latter word is undoubtedly a confused
combination of snap and knack. The French, who pro-
bably instituted the sociable meal, have two words in their
language which exactly give the meaning, piquer, to peck,
and niques, odds and ends or trifles. The general use
of this word is probably owing to custom, which we find
recorded as far back as the commencement of the present
century, when persons were in the habit of meeting to-
gether, either promiscuously or by arrangement, at friends’
houses, where dancing and eating were indulged in at the
joint expense of those present. Failing the advantage
of a friend’s house, the company would meet at an ap-
pointed place in the country, where each one would supply
something towards the feast. That is what we under-
stand of a Picnic now-a-days. The chief drawback is that
an unfortunate unanimity might prevail, producing an
abundant supply of one class or kind of food only. Un-
doubtedly a Picnic supplied by one person, that is under
one direction or management, would be more likely to
give satisfaction by its variety , but, as much amusement
would necessarily be created by the disclosing of the
individual supplies brought by a number of persons,
without previously concerting as to what the supplies
should be, there will always be found some to prefer the
mirth thus created to the pleasures of an organised
feast.
The class of foods suitable for Picnics are those which
are the most portable and require least trouble in serving
and eating. Patties and pies, sandwiches, cold meats,
and salads, are usually selected for this purpose, Every-
thing of a savoury character should be previously boned
and stuffed in such a manner that a slice cut off in almost
any direction would be equal to the best, thus avoiding the
necessity of careful carving.
Baskets fitted with all the utensils necessary for a
small party can be purchased, and are very compact and
useful.
Numerous receipts suitable for Picnic dishes are given
throughout this Encyclopaedia.
PIES (Fr. Pates ; Ger. Pasteten ; Ital. Pastacci ; Sp.
Pastels). — The origin of the English word Pie seems to
be one of great mystei-y, and some most extraordinary
attempts have been made to give it a derivation. Not the
least extraordinary, and yet the most probable, is that
given by Kettner. He will not admit that Pie is a cor-
ruption of pastie, as some of our greatest etymologists
maintain, the word pastie or pasty having come into
existence quite modernly. He believes Pie to be a com-
pound corruption of the words Pain — a loaf, and Pied —
foot. This he explains by the similarity of pronunciation
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
165
Pies — co ntinued.
between Pie and Pain, and the fact that Pies were
formerly made in the shape of loaves instead of in dishes,
of which our modern raised Pie may be considered an
example. The connection between Pie and Pied is ex-
plained by a very ancient custom of serving birds, such
as pigeons, d pied — that is in such a manner that they
would be eaten holding them by the feet. This would
probably have been in those days when forks were un-
known or not in general use, just as it was also customary
to serve smaller birds or bits of meat strung on skewers
or small spits (d la broche, or brochette), from which they
were pulled off with the fingers to be eaten, and they are
sometimes served in this way now. To support this ex-
planation of the origin of the word Pie, Kettner reminds
us that Pigeon Pies are to this day made with the feet
stuck into the crust. Probably the bird was originally
cooked with a crust round it, and the feet would then
be left protruding for the convenience of the eater.
Although these ingenious sugges-
tions appear to be rather far-
fetched, we should have no reason
to doubt their accru'acy if the
notion did not occur to one, that
probably the word Pie may have
been older than them all.
To Alexis Soyer we are in-
debted for the following very
smart instructions for the manu-
facture of Pie : He says, “ To
make a Pie to perfection — when
your paste (half puff or short) is
carefully made and your dish or
form properly full, throw a little
flour on your paste-board, take
about lib. of your paste, which
roll into a strip with your hand
until say an inch in circum-
ference; then moisten the rim
of your Pie-dish, and fix the
paste equally on it with your
thumb (see Fig. 214). When you
have rolled your paste for the
covering or upper crust, of an
equal thickness throughout and in proportion to the
contents of your Pie (|in. is about the average), fold
the cover in two, lay it over one half of your Pie, and
turn the other half over the remaining part; next press it
slightly with your thumb round the rim, cut neatly the
rim of the paste, form rather a thick edge, and mark this
with a knife about every |in. apart, observing to hold
Fig. 215.
Pastry Leaf for
Ornamenting Pie-crust.
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
166
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pies — continued.
your knife in a slanting direction, which gives it a neat
appearance ; lastly, make two small holes on the top, and
egg over the whole with a paste-brusli, or else use a little
milk or water. Any small portion of paste remaining
Fig. 216. Raised Pie.
may he shaped to fanciful designs, such as leaves, &c.
(see Fig. 215), and placed as ornaments on the top.
“ For meat Pies observe that if your paste is either
too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or too short,
and requires pulling one way or the other to make it fit,
your Pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer
Fig. 217. Raised-pie Moulds (Adams and Son).
protecting the contents. It is the same with fruit ; and
if the paste happens to be rather rich it pulls the rim
of the Pie to the dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy,
and, therefore, indigestible as well as unpalatable.”
Meat Pies require the addition of either cayenne,
black pepper, or allspice ; and fruit Pies, of enough sugar
Fig. 218. Meat Pie in Flat-rimjied Basin.
to sweeten, with mace, ginger, cloves, or lemon-peel,
according to taste and the substance operated on.
Raised Pies (see Fig. 216) are made in moulds (see
Fig. 217), and are usually stuffed with game, pork or
some other savoury meat, receipts for which are given
Pies — continued.
under the special headings. Meat Pies are sometimes
made in round basins with flat rims (see Fig. 218),
instead of the ordinary Pie-dishes, the advantage being
that there is more contents in proportion to the crust.
| See Paste and Pastry.
Bengal Shikaree Pie.— Put four brace of partridges or
grouse into a saucepan with a knuckle of ham cut into
small pieces, and plenty of common stock, also seasoning
to taste, and simmer gently until the birds are tender.
Cut the meat from the breast of the birds, with some of
the lean, ham, and leave it until cold. Boil the liquor
until thickly reduced, strain it, and when cool skim off
the fat. I hit the meat in a mortar with small quantities
of mushroom powder, chopped lemon-peel, allspice, and
salt and pepper to taste, and pound it until smooth. Cut
a pheasant and two brace of partridges into nice-sized
pieces, put them into a stewpan with the above liquor,
and stew them gently until tender. Make a raised pie-
crust, and when the game is cold, fill the crust with
alternate layers of game and the pounded meat, com-
mencing with a layer of game and finishing with a layer
of forcemeat. Pour in some of the gravy, place the cover
on the Pie, and bake it in a good oven. When cooked,
lift the cover carefully oft' the Pie, pour in the remainder
of the gravy, and replace the cover. Keep the Pie in a
cool larder until the following day, when it may be served.
Brazilian Pie. — Boil 31b. or 41b of potatoes, and when cooked
mash them with 4oz. of butter and a little salt. Cut a
loin of mutton in small pieces, put them into a saute -pan
with some chopped parsley, butter, pepper, and salt, and
saut6 them. Put the cutlets into a pie-dish, with slices
of raw ham on the top, and pour in ( pint of rich brown
gravy. Cover the pie with the mashed potatoes, and bake
it for two hours in a moderate oven. When cooked, serve
the Pie.
Camp Pie. — Cut up and mince some cold mutton or other
meat very fine, add pepper, salt, and finely-chopped onion,
put these into a Pie-dish, mix with it a little gravy
flavoured with ketchup or Worcestershire sauce, or both,
and cover with a thick layer of mashed potatoes mixed
with a little butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper.
Bake in the oven or in a Dutch oven before the fire.
Eccles Pies. — Stone lib. of raisins and chop them very
fine ; mix with them Mb. of chopped citron-peel, 1 break-
fast-cupful of moist sugar, the strained juice of one lemon,
and a little water. Put them in a saucepan and boil
them for five minutes. Butter some small patty-pans,
line them with puff paste, fill them with the fruit pre-
paration, cover them with the paste, and trim round
the edges, moistening and pinching them together. Bake
them in a quick oven. When cooked, arrange the Pies
on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a dish,
sprinkle caster sugar over them, and serve.
Goblet Pie. — Chop 2oz. of any kind of lean meat with 2oz.
of beef suet, and mix with them 2oz. of stoned and
chopped raisins, 2oz. of washed and dried currants, and two
moderate -sized apples that have been peeled, cored, and cut
into thin slices. Butter the edges of a pie-dish, and line it
with thin strips of short-paste; put in the mixture with
2oz. of moist sugar, and cover with a flat of the paste.
Moisten and press the edges together, trimming them off
neatly, and make a small incision in the top of the crust.
Bake the Pie for lialf-an-hour, and serve either hot or cold.
Italian Pie. — Make a well of about Hlb. of flour, and
break into it the yolks of two eggs and the white of one.
Add 1 table-spoonful of warmed butter, and work this in,
moistening with tepid water until a still' paste is made.
Knead this thoroughly and roll it out several times, fold-
ing up again after each rolling. Diride the paste into two
or three portions, and then roll each out very thinly,
cutting out flats of it to fit a small tin. Lay these in
with butter between. Just before putting this into the
oven to bake, mark round with a sharp knife a part to
be removed, and when the crust is baked remove the
piece. Hollow out the interior to the last flat, and fill the
Pie with savoury forcemeat or stewed fruits.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
167
Pies — continued.
Pies — continued.
Leicestershire Medley Pie. — Any kind of cold roast meat
can be used. Cut it into thick slices with an equal quantity
of cold fat bacon, and season them well with pounded
ginger, salt, and pepper. Cut several cooking apples into
quarters, remove their cores, but do not peel them. Put
the above ingredients into a Pie-dish in alternate layers,
and pour in 4 pint of ale. Cover with a nice dripping
crust, and brush it over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten
white of egg. Bake the pie in a moderate oven for about
an hour or a little longer. When cooked, serve either
hot or cold.
Lent Pie. — Finely chop the yolks of twelve hard-boiled
eggs, also twelve peeled and cored apples, and 2lb. of
stoned raisins. Mix these together, with 21b. of cleaned
currants, lib. of moist sugar, and 1 table-spoonful each of
powdered mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon. When these are
thoroughly incorporated, add the grated rind and juice of
three lemons, 4lb. of finely-shred candied citron, and moisten
with 2 tumblerfuls each of white wine and brandy. The
mixture can then be either baked or boiled in a basin
lined with suet crust.
Pie a la Pinanciere. — Butter a pie-mould and line it with
short-paste. Mix some sweet herbs with a sufficient
quantity of raw-chicken forcemeat, and put a layer of it
at the bottom ; fill the pie with collops of calves’ or lambs’
sweetbreads that have been fried with sweet herbs, put in
another layer of the forcemeat, lay a flat of paste on the
top, moisten the edges, and press them together, trim-
ming round evenly ; with a paste-brush dipped in beaten
egg brush over tire top of the pie, put a sheet of paper
on the top, and bake it for an-hour-and-a-quarter in a
moderate oven. Shape out of some veal forcemeat fifteen
quenelles, and poacli them in salted water. Lard a lamb’s
sweetbread, braise and glaze it with some fowls’ livers,
truffles, cock’s combs, and button mushrooms. Prepare a
ragout. When cooked, take the pie out of the oven, take
off the round of paste and the top layer of forcemeat, slip
the Pie on to a hot dish, and pour in it some brown sauce that
has been reduced with a little madeira. Arrange the
ragofit in the centre, placing the sweetbread on the top,
put the quenelles in a circle on the rim, and serve the Pie
while hot with a sauceboatful of Madeira sauce.
Roman Pie. — Rub 14oz. of butter into 4oz. of flour, pour
in sufficient cold water to make a paste, and roll it
out rather thin. Take a mould that null hold 2 pints,
butter it well, and sprinkle it over until as much crushed
vermicelli as will stick to it. Line the bottom and sides
with the paste, reserving a piece for the cover. In the
meantime break 4oz. of macaroni into small pieces, and
boil it in salted water for fifteen minutes ; take it out and
drain it. Boil a small onion, and chop it up. Cut up
into slices, 4oz. of cooked fowl, rabbit, or any other kind
of lean meat, put them into a basin with the onion,
macaroni, and 4oz. of grated cheese, sprinkle over £• tea-
spoonful of salt and \ teaspoonful each of mustard and
pepper, and pour in 1 gill of cream or rich milk. Stir all
together, fill the mould with it, put on the paste cover,
and bake in a moderate oven for fully half-an-hour. Turn
it out on to a dish, pour a little brown gravy in through
the crust, and serve.
Savoury Pie. — Cut about lib. of ox-liver into small pieces ;
peel and cut in thin slices Hlb. of potatoes, and peel and
slice an onion. Put a layer of the potatoes in a pie-dish,
then a layer of the pieces of liver, and over that a few of
the slices of onion ; proceed like this until all are used,
seasoning witli salt and pepper between each layer, then
pour in a little more than 4 pint of water. Rub 4oz. of
lard into lib. of flour until quite smooth, then add 1
teaspoonful of baking powder and 4 teaspoonful of salt.
Mix in sufficient water to make a stiff paste, roll it out
on a floured table, cover the Pie witli it, ornament
the top with flower or other shapes, moisten and trim
the edges, and bake it in a moderate oven. In two hours’
time take the pie out of the oven, brush the top over with
white of egg, put it in the oven to set, and then serve it
resting on a folded napkin, and the top garnished here and
there with fried parsley (see Fig. 219).
Sea Pie. — Cut l£lb. of nice tender steak into small pieces,
put them in a stewpau with 1 breakfast-cupful of cold
water, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and 4 saltspoonful of pepper,
and put the stewpan over the fire. Peel two small turnips,
two small carrots, and two onions ; cut the carrots and
turnips into thin slices and put them with the onions in
with the steak. When boiling, move the saucepan to the
side of the fire, and keep the contents simmering gently
for an-hour-and-a-half. Trim the skin and discoloured
Fig. 219. Savoury Pie.
parts off 6oz. of beef-suet, chop it finely, put it in a basin
with fib. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, and 1
saltspoonful of salt, and mix them well; then pour in
gradually sufficient water to form the whole into a light
dough. Dredge flour over a paste board, turn the dough
on to it, knead it lightly, and divide it into ten equal-
sized pieces, which mould into balls witli floured hands,
When the meat has been cooked for an-hour-and-a-half, lay
the balls in with it, and cook the whole slowly for half-an-
hour longer. When cooked, arrange the balls in a circle
round a hot dish, pile the meat and vegetables in the centre,
and serve.
Shepherd’s Pie. — Cut lqt. of cold meat into small pieces,
and mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls of finely-minced salt
pork, four large uncooked potatoes, peeled and cut into
dice, one finely chopped onion, and 1 table-spoonful of
chopped parsley. Mix them well, sprinkle in plenty of
salt and pepper, and add 1 breakfast-cupful of water.
Partially boil four large potatoes, and mash them into a
paste with 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, 1 breakfast-cupful
of boiling milk, and 1 pint of flour. Sprinkle some flour
on the table or a paste-board and roll the paste out,
making it a little larger than the top of the dish. Cover
the dish with the paste, doubling the superfluous paste
round the inside of the rim of the dish, and make a hole
in the top to let out the air. Bake in a moderate oven
for one hour. When ready to serve, stand the Pie-dish on
another dish, and send to table.
Shropshire Pie. — Butter a deep pie-dish and line the sides
with puff paste. Cut two rabbits into pieces and put
them in the pie-dish, intermixed with 21b. of fat pork
cut in small pieces, and sprinkle in some pepper and salt.
Partially boil the livers of the rabbits ; then put them
into a mortar with an equal quantity of fat bacon, a small
quantity of finely-chopped parsley and sweet herbs, six
oysters, and some pepper and salt, and pound them all
together. Stir the yolk of an egg in the mixture and
shape it into quenelles ; put them over the meat, with a
few artichoke bottoms cut in dice ; grate over all half a
nutmeg, and pour in 1 pint of red wine and water, mixed in
equal quantities. Cover the pie with a thick flat of puff
paste, moisten and press the edges together, ornament it
with paste leaves, and make a hole in the top. Brush
the pie over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg,
and bake it for two hours. Serve either hot or cold.
Squab Pie. — Cut some mutton chops off the best end of a
neck of mutton, and season them highly with salt and
pepper. Line the edges of a pie-dish with short crust,
put in the meat in layers, with slices of sweet apples and
chopped onions between each layer. Cover the Pie with
a flat of the short crust, make a hole in the centre, and
bake it. When cooked, lift the cover of the Pie, and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tfcc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
168
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pies — continued.
pour tlie gravy out at the side. Skim the fat off the
gravy, flavour it with mushroom ketchup, and pour it
hack in the Pie through the hole in the centre. Serve
the Pie while hot.
Swiss Pie. — Cut 21b. of rump steak into moderate-sized
pieces, and split four mutton kidneys open; put the meat
into a stewpan with a thinly-sliced Spanish onion, pour
in a sufficient quantity of cold water to cover, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and set the stewpan over the
fire. Peel and hoil about a dozen moderate-sized potatoes,
drain them before they are too much cooked, cut them
into moderately thick slices, and fry them a delicate
brown in butter. When the meat is cooked, turn it into
a game Pie-dish, arrange the browned potatoes, overlapping
each other, on the top, and serve.
Tartar’s Pie. — Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to lib. of flour,
and mix it to a soft flexible paste with two eggs and
some water. Roll the paste out to Jin. in thickness, then
cut it into square pieces, 2in. long and 2in. broad. Finely
mince some raw mutton, lamb, beef, or other meat, judging
the quantity hy the number of pieces of paste; put it in
a frying-pan with a lump of hutter, and fry it till cooked.
Put about J teaspoonful of the meat in one corner of each
piece of paste, then fold the other half over it, giving it
a triangular shape, and press the edges with the fingers
to make them adhere. Put a saucepan three-parts full of
water over the fire, and when it boils, throw in the pieces
of paste, and boil them until cooked. Drain the Pies,
brush them over with dissolved butter and curd, arrange
them on a hot dish, dust a small quantity of pepper over,
and serve them. In the boiling, care must be taken that
the pieces of paste do not stick together.
Thatched Pie. — Butter a Pie-dish thickly, and then arrange
a layer of vermicelli at the bottom and in lines standing-
up, sticking in the butter round the sides; fill the centre
with any kind of well-seasoned fish forcemeat, packing it
so that it may stand above the sides of the dish ; pour
in J pint or so of rich gravy, which, when cold, will set
into a strong jelly. Bake the Pie for about one hour in
a moderate oven. When cooked, leave the Pie till cold ;
then turn it out of the Pie-dish on to a flat dish like a
jelly, and send it to table.
Turkish Girdle Pie. — Put 21b. of flour into a basin with
a small quantity of salt, and stir in sufficient water to
make a softish paste. Knead the paste well, leave it for
a few minutes, then divide it into ten or twelve pieces,
each of which pin out round to the size of a tea-plate,
and very thin. Finely mince some raw mutton, or beef
if preferred, and mix 2 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped
onions with it, seasoning with salt, pepper, and powdered
cinnamon. Lay some of the mixture over one-half of each
piece, then double the other half over; moisten the edges
slightly with a paste-brush dipped in water, and press
them together with the fingers. Put a slightly-domed
piece of thin iron on a trivet over a charcoal fire;
when it begins to get hot, brush it over with a paste-
brush dipped in warmed hutter, lay the pieces of paste
on it, and cook them till nicely browned on both sides,
basting them occasionally with the paste-brush dipped in
warmed butter. When nicely cooked, lift them off the
iron with a slice, and arrange them across each other on
a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper placed on a
hot dish, and serve.
Washington Pie. — (1) Put into a basin lib. of breadcrumbs,
Jib. of finely-chopped suet, Jib. each of well-washed
currants and stoned raisins, 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground
spices, Jib. of brown sugar or molasses, two eggs, 1 tea-
cupful of vinegar, and 1 breakfast-cupful of water, and
mix them thoroughly. Butter a baking-tin, and cover the
bottom witli a thin layer of short-paste ; pour in the
mixture, cover it with another layer of paste, brush over
the top with heaten egg, and bake it in a moderate oven
for three-quarters-of-an-hour. When cooked, sprinkle caster
sugar over the top of the Pie, cut it into squares, and
serve either hot or cold.
(2) Peel and blanch 4oz. of almonds, put them into a
mortar with 2oz. of powdered sugar, and pound them
Pies — continued.
thoroughly, adding gradually one raw egg. When well
pounded, add 2oz. more of powdered sugar, 2oz. of melted
butter, J gill of rum, J saltspoonful of ground cinnamon,
six drops of orange flower water, and break in another
egg. Pound the whole briskly for five minutes, then add
2oz. of well-pounded macaroons, and mix again for two
minutes longer. Line a Pie-dish with light paste, pour all
the preparation over, cover over with more paste, and
bake in a moderate oven ; place the Pie on a dish, decorate
the top and sides artistically with 2oz. of candied cherries,
3oz. of pear, loz. of angelica, 2oz. of apricot, and 2oz. of
pineapple, all the fruits being candied, and send to the
table.
PIGS. — In a book called the “ Pantropheon,” said to
have been written by the noted Soyer, we read: “If intelli-
gence, strength, or graceful beauty of form were to
decide what rank this animal should occupy on our tables,
the Pig, with its vile and stupid ugliness, its depraved
habits and waddling obesity, would be banished for ever.
But, in refusing to it brilliant external qualites, Nature,
by a wise compensation, has conferred on it others much
more solid; and this quadruped, so despised during its
lifetime, does not fail, after its death, to conciliate the
favour of rich and poor.
“ Pliny, the naturalist, placed the Pig one degree below
the scale of human beings. Apicius, the cook, gave it
a marked preference over all meats which passed through
his skilful hands. From this it will be readily understood
that the Pig ranks high in the animal diet of all nations.
The Pig is variously estimated by different countries.
Certain people consecrated it, when living, to their
divinities ; others honoured its image — a symbol, they
thought, of the quiet happiness of states. A small number
abhorred it, and the greater part found it excellent
eating.
“ The inhabitants of Cyprus abstained from it, in order
to offer it to Yenus. The Cretans loaded it with acorns
and all the comforts of life, because Jupiter was believed
to have been first suckled by a sow in their island. The
Egyptian priests never allowed a ham to grace their
feasts; they fled at the sight of Pigs — unclean animals,
whose presence alone defiled them, although respected
by the whole nation on account of the services they ren-
dered in turning up the earth and covering the seeds
thrown upon it. The law of Moses forbade the Jews to eat
pork or touch a Pig after its death ; and more than once
they exposed themselves to the most frightful torments
rather than be defiled by this proscribed viand. Tradition,
again, strengthened their religious dread by interdicting
the faithful from even pronouncing the name of this
animal, from looking at it,, or selling it to foreign
nations.”
From time immemorial the flesh of the Pig ( Sus scrofa)
has been considered the most tasty of all meats. It consti-
tutes pork, bacon, and ham, and its fat makes famous lard.
All these are described under special headings. Under
this heading we are only able to include the various parts
of the Pig which do not come under the denomination of
pork.
Pig’s Cheek, Jowl, or Pace. — These special parts
of the Pig’s-head require notice, as they are regarded
by many in light of titbits. Pig’s Cheek or Jowl may
be either freshly pickled, dried or smoked ( see Bath
Chaps). The following are good receipts for cooking
them :
Dried Pigs’ Faces. — Rub the required number of Pigs’
faces over with salt and saltpetre in the proportion of
8oz. of salt to loz. of saltpetre. Put them into a jar of
pickle, let them remain for three or four weeks, and then
hang them up in a warm place to dry. W hen wanted
for use, put them In a saucepan of water, and boil until
they are done. Take them out, drain oil' the liquor,
brown them a little with a salamander, and they are
ready for use.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
169
Figs — continued.
Pig's Cheek. — (1) Put a pickled Pig’s cheek in a saucepan
of water, and boil it until quite tender. Take it out,
and place it in a warm place until wanted. Put 1 break-
fast-cupful of split peas tied up in a muslin bag in a
saucepan of boiling water, set it on the fire, and boil for
an hour. Take out the bag, turn the peas out on to a
sieve, and rub them through. Put the puree into another
saucepan with loz. of butter and four eggs, sprinkle over
a little salt and pepper, and stir well over a slow fire
until the eggs are nearly set. Smear this mixture over
the Pig’s cheek, sprinkle it with breadcrumbs, put it on a
dish in a moderate oven, and bake for ten minutes. Take
it out, brown it with a salamander if it is not sufficiently
coloured already, and serve very hot.
(2) Take two lean smoked Pig’s cheeks, and let them
soak in cold water all night. Next morning drain them
well, put them in a saucepan, covering with cold water,
and cook for an-hour-and-three-quarters; then lay them
on a dish, drain well again, remove the rind and skin
which adheres to the tongue, take out all the hones, and
place the cheeks on a hot dish. Garnish with 1 pint of
hot spinach, and serve.
Fig’s Jowl. — Put the under-jaw or jowl of a young Pig in
a saucepan, and boil it until the bone can be easily
removed. Sprinkle over with salt and pepper before boil-
ing and again afterwards. When the meat is tender,
score it across, brush it over with beaten egg and then
with bread or biscuit -crumbs (the Americans use cracker-
meat). Put it in a pan with a little of its stock, set the
pan in the oven, and brown.
Fig’s Ears. — These are esteemed as food principally on
account of their crisp cartilaginous character.
Baked Pigs’ Bars. — Singe off all the hair from half-a-
dozen or so Pigs’ ears, then scrape and blanch them. Let
them get cold, put them into warmed butter, rub over
with breadcrumbs, covering them completely, then dip them
into well-beaten yolk of egg and breadcrumb them again.
Fig. 220. Baked Pigs’ Ears.
Put them into a baking-dish in a moderate oven, and bake
until done and of a light brown. Take them out, put them
on a dish (see Fig. 220), pour over some remoulade sauce,
and serve.
Braised Pigs’ Bars. — Thoroughly clean the required quantity
of Pig’s ears, singe off all the hair, and scrape them. Put
a layer of slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a braising-
pan, place the ears on it, sprinkle over with salt and
pepper, and add a few slices of carrots and onions and a
bunch of sweet herbs. Pour in sufficient stock to moisten,
set the pan on the fire with hot ashes on the lid, and let
them coek until they are done. Strain the liquor through
a fine sieve, skim off the fat, arrange the ears on a dish,
pour the liquor over, and serve very hot.
Pigs’ Bars d la Lyonnaise. — Singe off all the hair from
some Pig’s ears, scrape them, wash them well, and cut
them lengthwise into strips. Put them into a saucepan
with a little stock, and add a small quantity of flour, a
few slices of onions fried, and salt and pepper to taste.
Set the pan on the side of the fire, and let the liquor
simmer gently until the ears are thoroughly cooked. Arrange
them on a dish, add a little lemon-juice to the liquor,
Figs — continued.
pour it with the onions over the ears, and serve with a
garnish of fried slices of bread.
Pig’s-Ears Soup. — (1) Put a couple of salted Pig’s ears in
a basin of water, and let them steep for a few hours ; take
them out, drain, wipe them on a cloth, and singe. Put them
into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover, set the pan
on the fire, and boil gently for an-hour-and-a-half. Take
them out, cut each one lengthwise in halves, and put
them into a stock-pot with lgall. of water, adding 1 pint
of split peas, a carrot and onion cut in slices, two cloves
and a sprig of parsley. Put the pan on the fire, and as
soon as the liquor boils remove it to the side and let it
simmer gently until both the ears and peas are thoroughly
cooked. Take out the ears, trim off the fat, and cut
the remainder into shreds. Strain the liquor from the
peas, vegetables, &c., and nib them through a fine sieve.
Then add the stock again to them, and pass the whole
through a sieve into a saucepan. Put the pan on the
fire, and stir frequently until the mixture boils ; add
the pieces of ears, and boil slowly at the side of
the fire for ten minutes to clarify. Skim off all the fat,
and serve with pieces of bread fried in butter.
(2) Singe, scrape, and clean two or three Pig’s ears,
and put them in a saucepan with sufficient water to
cover, and boil slowly for twenty minutes. Mince two
carrots and onions, one or two leeks, and a root of celery,
put them into a frying-pan with a little butter, and
fry them for a few minutes. Turn them into a saucepan,
and add lqt. of broth and J pint of white wine to moisten.
Set the pan on the fire, and as soon as the liquor boils
add a bunch of sweet herbs and lastly the Pig’s ears;
remove the pan to the side of the fire and boil slowly
until the ears are done ; they will take from three to four
hours. Take out the ears, put them on a dish to keep
warm, strain the stock through a fine sieve, and remove
all the fat. Prepare a roux with 3 table-spoonfuls of
flour and 5oz. of butter, but without allowing it to colour ;
pour over the stock that the ears were cooked in, put the
pan containing these on the fire, and as soon as the liquor
boils remove the pan to the side and add a small slice of
uncooked ham. Let the liquor boil gently for forty-five
minutes, skim off the fat, strain it through a fine sieve
into another saucepan, and mix in \ wineglassful of
Madeira, a little pepper, and lastly the ears cut into
small pieces. Put the pan on the fire, boil for a few
minutes longer, then turn the whole out into a soup-
tureen, and serve.
Salted Pigs’ Bars. — Singe off all the hairs from four salted
Pigs’ ears, plunge them into a basin of boiling water, let
them remain for a few minutes until they are scalded,
take them out, drain, and wipe dry on a cloth. Put
them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover, and
add a few vegetables cut in slices, cloves, peppercorns,
and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Set the pan on the
fire and boil gently from three to four hours ; take them
out when done, drain, and wipe them on a cloth. Have
ready a puree of lentils, placed on a dish and well raised
in the centre, arrange the ears in an upright position on
it, and serve with a little of the liquor, reduced with 4 or 5
table-spoonfuls of vinegar and slightly thickened with flour.
Stuffed Pigs’ Bars. — (1) Prepare a savoury forcemeat with
fib. of breadcrumbs, Jib. of beef-suet very finely chopped,
one anchovy, a little minced veal, and sage, parsley, salt
and pepper to taste. Very little salt will be required.
Make the mixture into a paste by adding the yolks of
two eggs. Have ready four parboiled or soused Pigs’ ears,
lift up the skin of the upper side and stuff them, put
them into a frying-pan with butter, and fry to a rich
colour. Take them out, drain, and place them in a stew-
pan with 1 breakfast-cupful of rich gravy, seasoned with 1
wineglassful of sherry and 3 teaspoonfuls of made mustard,
and thickened with flour and butter ; add to the stewpan
a small onion, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the
pan and cook the contents gently for thirty minutes, toss-
ing the pan frequently. Remove the onion, arrange the ears
on a dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. The cooked
flesh from two or three feet may be added (see Fig. 221).
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, < t-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
170
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigs — continued.
(2) Clean and singe two ears, put them into a saucepan
of water, and boil for thirty minutes ; then take them out
and keep them warm. In the meantime make a forcemeat
with 5oz. of breadcrumbs, 4oz. of finely-chopped beef-suet,
Fig. 221. Stuffed Pigs’ Ears.
and salt and pepper to taste, binding them all together
with the yolks of two well -beaten eggs. Stuff the ears
with this forcemeat by raising the skin of the upper side,
put them into a frying-pan with 2oz. of butter, and
fry to a light brown. Take out the ears when they are
done, and drain them on a cloth. Pour 1 breakfast-cupful
of rich stock or gravy into a saucepan, and add 1 wine-
glassful of sherry, loz. of butter rolled in flour, 3 table-
spoonfuls of made mustard, a small onion, and a small
quantity of cayenne. Warm these all together, add the
ears, cover over the pan, and stew gently for half-an-hour
with the cover on the pan, and tossing it frequently.
When done, take out the onion, which must be whole,
place the ears on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and
serve.
Pig’s Feet. — Sometimes these are fastidiously called
pettitoes, from the French petit — small. Pig’s feet are
considered a very great delicacy, and can be prepared
in any of the following modes. They require great care,
and must be thoroughly scalded and scraped before
cooking. The feet of the young animal are the best for
culinary purposes. They are often prepared in com-
bination with other parts of the Pig, such as the fry,
ears, &c.
Boiled Pig’s Feet. — Wash some Pig’s feet well, put them
over the fire in a stewpan with just enough water to cover,
and as soon as the water boils take the feet from the fire,
strain off the water, and plunge them into a bowl of cold
water. Clean the stewpan and put the feet into it again,
with 2qts. of water, 1 table-spoonful each of salt and
vinegar, and 1 oz. of Hour blended smoothly in a little cold
water. Put the pan over the fire and stir the contents
till they boil ; then draw the stewrpan to the side of the
fire, and simmer slowly for four hours. Place the feet
on a hot dish, pour over some good white sauce, and serve
hot.
Broiled Pig’s Feet. — (1) Thoroughly clean as many Pig’s
feet as are required, split them lengthwise in halves, tie
them round with broad tape so that they will not open
or shrink in cooking, put them into a saucepan with a
seasoning of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, allspice, carrots, and
onions, with sufficient water to cover, and boil gently till
tender, then let them cool in the liquor. Dip them
into beaten yolks of eggs and warmed butter, sprinkle them
with salt and pepper to taste, and cover with breadcrumbs,
seasoned with very finely-chopped shallot and parsley.
Put them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until
well and evenly browned. Unbind and arrange them on
a dish and garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 222) ; or
they can be served with Robert sauce.
(2) Split four good-sized, boiled Pig’s feet into halves,
place them on a deep dish, season with 1 pinch of salt,
J pinch of pepper, and 1 table-spoonful of oil, and roll
them well in breadcrumbs. Broil for four minutes on each
side. Pour on to a dish J pint of hot piquant sauce, to
which has been added 1 teaspoonful of diluted mustard, and
Figs — continued.
arrange the feet in it ; or they may be served with
maitre-d’hotel butter.
(3) Stuffed. — Mince Jib. of lean pork and Jib. of bacon,
mix with it some finely-pounded trimmings of" raw truffles,
sweet herbs, salt, spices, and a little cayenne. Scald the
required quantity of split Pig’s feet, bind them round
with broad tape, put them in a stewpan with some carrots,
turnips, and onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little
salt. When the feet are tender, take them out, drain,
untie the tapes, take out the bones, and cut off all the
sinewy parts. Stuff the feet with the mince and some
slices of highly-seasoned raw truffles, bind eacli foot round
with a square of Pig’s caul, dip them in melted lard and
Fig. 222. Broiled Pig’s Feet.
breadcrumbs, put the feet on a gridiron over a clear fire,
and broil for twenty minutes, turning so as to cook them
equally. Pour some hot gravy on a shallow dish, arrange
the feet in it, and serve.
Crepinettes of Fig’s Feet. — Put the four feet of a Pig into
a saucepan of water, and boil them until they are quite
tender ; take them out, drain, and cut them up into slices
about Jin. in thickness. Put some Pig’s caul into a basin
of water to steep, take it out, drain, and wipe it dry on
a cloth. Prepare some forcemeat with knuckle of veal
and fat bacon in equal quantities and mixed with a little
spiced salt ; spread a layer of this over the caul about Jin.
thick, 3in. long, and 1 Jin. wide. Have ready some truffles,
cooked in Madeira and cut in slices, arrange a few of
them on the forcemeat and then a few pieces of the Pig’s
feet. Cover over the whole with another layer of the
forcemeat, and then roll over the caul so as to form an
oval, 3in. in length and 2in. in width. When the required
number of crepinettes are made, dip them into warmed
butter, then roll them in breadcrumbs, place them on a
gridiron over a clear fire, and broil slowly for a-quarter-of-
an-hour, when they should have attained a light brown
colour. Put them on a dish, and serve with a little
perigueux sauce in a sauceboat.
Fricasseed Pig’s Feet and Bars. — (1) Clean and wash the
feet and ears of a Pig, cut them up into small pieces, put
them into a saucepan with 1 pint of milk, and boil for
an hour. Put the pieces of meat (after straining off the
liquor) into another saucepan, together with 1 breakfast-
cupful of veal broth, a small onion, the peel of half a
lemon, and a little powdered mace. Simmer gently at the
side of the fire until all are cooked, then mix in 1 gill
of cream, loz. of butter well rolled in flour, and l salt-
spoonful of salt. Warm up again, turn all out on to a
dish, and serve very hot.
(2) Put some Pig’s ears and feet (that have been par-
boiled or pickled without vinegar) into a saucepan with
sufficient milk to cover, and boil until quite tender. Take
them out, cut the feet into small pieces, and the ears into
strips about Jin. in width ; dry them on a cloth, put them
into another saucepan with some veal broth or stock,
season with mace, onion, and lemon- peel, and simmer
gently for ten or fifteen minutes; thicken with flour and
butter, add a small quantity of cream, cook for a minute
or two, and serve.
Jelly of Pig’s Feet and Ears. — Wash and clean carefully
the feet and ears of a Pig, and put them in a basin of
water to soak for several hours. Take them out, put
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, etc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
171
Pigs — continued.
them into a saucepan with a little water, and boil slowly
at the side of the fire for four or five hours, until
the ears and feet are quite done, and all the hones of the
latter can he easily extracted ; then add 1 teacupful of
chopped sage and parsley in equal proportions, \ saltspoon-
ful of powdered mace, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and half that
quantity of pepper. Put the pan at the side of the fire
again, and simmer the contents gently until the herbs are
scalded; then pour the whole into a melon-mould, and
when set, turn it out, and serve.
Pig’s Feet a la St. Menehould. — (1) Procure the four feet
from a large fatted bacon hog, put them into a sauce-
pan of water, and add one hay-leaf, two cloves, and one
onion, and boil gently over a moderate fire until the bones
will easily come out (it will take from ten to twelve hours).
They should never be allowed to boil quickly, or the meat
will become hard, whereas it should be tender and like
chicken. A little salt should lie added to the water if the
feet are fresh, but if they are salted it will not be re-
quired ; they must be soaked in water for three or four
hours before being used. Take out the feet when done,
divide them down the centre, remove the long bones, and
let them get perfectly cold. Dip each of the pieces into
a little warmed butter, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, place
them on a gridiron, and broil until they are warmed
through and the breadcrumbs well browned, turning so as j
to cook both sides. When cold, put them on a dish, and
serve. If desired, after the long bones have been taken
out, the cavity may be filled with a quenelle and trutHe
forcemeat, anil the two halves tied back into their original
positions and then broiled ; or they may be dipped into
frying-batter and fried in boiling fat, either stuffed or
plain, but for this way without stuffing is preferable.
(2) Steep a dozen small and young Pigs’ feet in boiling
water, having first singed them ; take them out, scrape
them with a knife, and boil again in fresh water for three-
quarters-of-an-hour, after having bound them round with
broad tape to keep tlie bones together. When cooked
tender, put them in a saucepan, with two or three carrots,
turnips, onions, or any other vegetable that is in season ;
pour in \ pint of white wine and sufficient water to cover,
and season with a bunch of sweet herbs and a little salt.
When the water boils, skim it, stand the saucepan at the
side of the fire, and let the contents simmer for twenty-
four hours, half-cooking one day and finishing the next.
Let the feet remain in the stock till cold, take them out,
drain, and unwind the tape; cut each in halves lengthwise,
and sprinkle pepper, salt, and a little powdered dried sweet
herbs over them. Rub the crumb of some stale bread till
very fine ; roll the feet in beaten eggs and then in the
breadcrumbs, broil over a clear fire, arrange them upon
upon a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Pig’s-Feet Salad. — Boil four Pig’s feet until tender, then
drain them, and leave till cold ; separate the meat from
the bone, cut them into medium sized pieces, pour a plain
salad dressing over them, and let them stand in the ice-
box for two hours. Put into a salad bowl the bleached
leaves of two heads of chicory ; chop some leaves of
tarragon, chervil, and chives. Put the meat and dressing
in with the chicory, strew over the minced herbs, and
serve the salad.
Soused Pig’s Feet. — Put a couple of Pig’s feet into a basin
of boiling water and scald them. Take them out, scrape
clean, and remove the covering of the toes. If this cover-
ing will not come off easily, hold the toes in some hot
embers until it is loose. The feet may lie placed in a
weak solution of lime-and-water to whiten them, but this
is not essential. Put them into a basin of water, wash
thoroughly, drop them into a saucepan of water, quite
hot but not boiling, and sprinkle in a little salt. Set the
pan on the fire and boil gently for about an-hour-and-a-
half, or until by placing a fork in the flesh it will easily
break and the bones drop out. Skim frequently, take
out the feet, and put them into a deep dish with 1 pint
of the liquor mixed with enough vinegar to nearly cover
them. Season with six peppercorns, four cloves, and a
little mace and allspice. Cover over the dish, let them
Figs — continued.
remain for a few hours, and they are ready for use
(see Fig. 223).
Fig. 223. Soused Pig’s Feet.
Soused Pig’s Feet and Ears. — (1) Boil some Pig’s feet
and ears until they are tender and the ibones will slip
out. Throw them into cold water, take out the bones,
and pack them in a jar. Boil with the jelly liquor an
equal quantity of vinegar, salt to season, cloves, cinnamon,
and pepper to taste, and pour it while boiling on the souse.
When wanted for use, make it all warm, and serve ; or
dip each piece in batter, and fry in hot butter. The
latter way is usually preferred, and gives it the qualities
of tripe.
(2) Clean the required number of ears and feet (an equal
quantity of each), put them into a bowl of cold water, and
let them soak for several hours, and afterwards boil till
quite tender. Take them out, put them into another bowl,
and pour over a pickle composed of part of their cooking
stock, a quarter that quantity of vinegar, and a little salt,
all boiled together and allowed to get cold. When suffi-
ciently pickled, drain and dry them, split the feet in
halves, cut the ears into slices, flour them and fry in
butter ; or they may be dipped in batter and then fried.
Serve hot, with a sauce made of butter, vinegar, and
mustard.
Stewed Pig’s Feet. — (1) Put four boiled Pig’s feet cut into
halves into a saucepan with Joz. of butter, simmer for five
minutes, add 1 pint of poulette sauce, heat without boil-
ing for five minutes, and serve with a little chopped
parsley sprinkled over.
(2) Clean and split some Pig’s feet, boil them until
tender, and put them into a stewpan with sufficient gravy
to cover. Add an onion sliced, a few sage-leaves, whole
black pepper, allspice, and salt, and stew for forty minutes.
Strain off the gravy, thicken with flour and butter, add
2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar or 1 dessert -spoonful of lemon-
pickle, and serve it hot with the feet.
(3) Place a couple of thin slices of bacon at the bottom
of a stewpan, put in the feet with a blade of mace, a few
peppercorns, two or three sprigs of thyme, and a sufficient
quantity of good gravy to moisten them to height, and
boil gently. When quite tender, split each foot lengthwise
into halves, and lay them open on a hot dish ; strain their
cooking liquor into a small saucepan, mix with it a small
lump of butter that has been kneaded with Hour, and the
bacon from the stewpan, first cutting it up into small
pieces. Let the sauce simmer at the edge of the fire for
two or three minutes, then pour it over the feet, garnish
them with small crofttons of bread that have been nicely
browned in butter, and serve.
Stewed Pig’s Feet and Fry. — (1) Simmer the feet, liver,
and heart of a sucking Pig in a little water till half cooked.
Mince the heart and liver, and split the feet. Put the feet
and the mince back into the saucepan with some of the
water they have been partly cooked in, and boil very
slowly till the feet are quite tender. Then add a small
lump of butter rolled in flour, a little pepper and salt, and
1 table-spoonful of cream, and let it boil for ten minutes.
Have a few sippets of bread ready in a hot dish, pour
the mince over these, and lay the feet on top.
(2) Wash and thoroughly clean the heart, liver, lights,
and feet of a Pig, put them into a saucepan of water
over a clear fire, and boil for fifteen minutes. Take out
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <£c., referred to, see under their special heads.
172
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigs — continued.
the heart, liver, and lights, chop them up very fine, and
keep them hot. When the feet are done (they will take
forty-five minutes), take them out, drain them, and split
in halves. Pour a little of the liquor into another sauce-
pan, add a little butter, well rolled in flour to thicken it,
set the pan on the fire, and when the butter is dissolved
put in the mince, and add 1 table-spoonful of white
wine, a thin slice of lemon, and salt to taste. Boil these
together for a few minutes, and add the yolk of an egg
beaten up with 2 table-spoonfuls of cream, and a little
grated nutmeg. When this is well mixed in, add the
feet, toss the pan over the fire, warm them all up with-
Fig. 224. Stewed Pig’s Feet and Fry.
out boiling, pour the mince out on to a dish, arrange the
halves of feet, with the skin side up, on top of it in the
centre, and serve with a garnish of fried pieces of bread
(see Fig. 224).
Stuffed Pig’s Feet a la Perigueux. — To 141b. of honed
turkey forcemeat, add two minced truffles and \ wine-
glassful of madeira wine, and mix well together in a
howl. Shred six pieces of cnipinette (a skin found in the
stomach of a Pig), the size of the hand, on the table, lay
on each one a piece of forcemeat the size of an egg,
spread it well, and lay one-half of a honed Pig’s foot on
top. Cover with another light layer of forcemeat, and
finish each with three thin slices of truffles. Cover the
cr6pinettes so that they get the form of envelopes, fold
them up, and dip them one after the other in beaten egg,
then in breadcrumbs, and cook in a sautd-pan with 2oz.
of clarified butter. Place a heavy weight on top of the
feet, cook on a slow fire for twelve minutes on each side,
and serve with 4 pint of hot perigueux sauce on the
dish, and the Pig’s Feet on top; or they may be served
with hot Madeira sauce.
Toasted Pig’s Feet. — Put four Pig’s feet in a stewpan with
some common stock, and stew until tender ; then drain them
well, season with salt and pepper, and cover with a layer
of freshly-mixed mustard. Fix the feet in front of a sharp
clear fire and toast them all over equally. They should
be quickly done or they will get tough. When nicely
browned, put them on a hot dish, pour some boiling rich
brown gravy round, and serve.
Pig’s Fry. — This term may be said to include almost
all the internal organs of the Pig. In localities where
Pigs ar’e largely bred, the fry is an essential dish of the
farmer’s table, and may be prepared as follows :
Baked Pig’s Fry. — Put a large Spanish onion in a sauce-
pan of water, boil it, take it out when done, and chop it
up very fine, with a few sage-leaves. Put fib. of Pig’s fry
at the bottom of a pie-dish, mask it with a little of the
sage-mixture, sprinkle over pepper and salt, and cover
with a layer of potatoes cut in slices. Put another fib.
of fry on the top, then sage, and potatoes again. The
quantity of potatoes required will be about 2411). Pour
over sufficient stock or water to fill the dish, put it in the
oven, and bake for two-hours-and-a-half. Take it out, brown
it on the top with a salamander, and serve very hot.
Roasted Pig’s Fry. —Well wash and thoroughly dry the
required quantity of Pig’s fry and a little fat and lean pork
(beaten tender with a rolling-pin), highly season with finely -
Figs — continued.
chopped onion, sage, salt, and pepper, and mix thoroughly.
Turn the whole into a Pig’s caul, sew it up with thread,
and roast in a jack in front of a clear fire. Serve hot.
Stewed Pig’s Fry. — Throughly wash 21b of Pig’s fry,
cut it into nice slices, mix with 1 teacupful of grated stale
breadcrumbs, a finely-chopped onion, a moderate quantity
of powdered sage, and salt and pepper to taste. Put two
or three slices of bacon in a stewpan, then a few slices of
the fry, and over that a layer of the seasoned crumbs ;
cover with a layer of the bacon, then fry, and so on,
until all is used. Pour in 2£ breakfast-cupfuls of water,
put the lid on the pan, and keep the contents simmering
at the side of the fire for three hours. When cooked, turn
the stew on to a hot dish, and serve it.
Pig's Head. — Although not aspiring to the dignity
of the boar’s head, which is often but a Pig’s head in
disguise, the cook can claim for the latter a variety of
delicious dishes that stand almost unrivalled in the annals
of culinary art, as may be seen hereunder.
Baked Pig's Head. — Cut a Pig’s head into halves and
thoroughly clean it, take out the brains, trim the
snout and ears, and bake it in a moderate oven for an-
hour-and-a-lialf. Wash the brains thoroughly, blanch
them, heat them up with an egg, pepper and salt, some
finely-chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of
butter. Fry or brown them before the fire, and serve
with the head.
Boiled Pig’s Head. — (1) Take out the bone from half a
Pig’s head, rub it over with salt, and put it into a basin
with a few sweet herbs, cloves, and peppercorns. Pour over
\ pint of vinegar and let it remain for a day or so. Take the
half head out, drain, wipe it dry on a cloth, singe it, and
cut it in pieces ; put them into a saucepan, pour in the
strained vinegar pickle, add a little water, and a few
vegetables cut in pieces. Set the saucepan on the fire,
boil up, then remove the pan to the side and let it cook
slowly for about four horn's. Take out the pieces of meat,
trim the outer sides of the tube of the ear, place it in
the centre of a dish with the pieces of meat round it,
pour over some poivrade sauce, and serve.
(2) Put a salted Pig’s head into a saucepan with suffi-
cient water to cover, set the pan on the fire, and boil
gently for an-hour-and-a-half, when it should be done and
quite tender. Take it out, drain, pour over a little rich
gravy, and serve with a garnish of cooked vegetables and
suet dumplings (see Fig. 225).
Boiled Stuffed Pig’s Head.— Split a Pig’s head lengthwise,
wash, and bone it, being careful not to cut through the skin.
Spread open the head, with the skin side down, and season
well with salt and pepper. Prepare a stuffing of finely-
minced bacon and liver and a small quantity of minced
onion, and breadcrumbs, seasoning with salt, pepper, grated
nutmeg, finely -chopped thyme, sage, and sweet basil.
Bind the mixture with beaten egg, and when well mixed
spread it thickly over the head. Lay some sliced Pig’s
tongue and strips of pork over the forcemeat, alternately
with pickled gherkins and fillets of fat bacon ; strew over
a small quantity of finely-minced shallot, then spread
For details respecting Culina.ry Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
173
Pigs — continued.
over that the remainder of the forcemeat. Close the two
halves of the head together, sew them up tightly with
strong thread, and bind round the snout. Cover the back
of the head with a piece of well-soaked bladder, sewing
it securely on. Put the hones of the head and three or
four calf's feet in a deep stewpan, put in the head,
cover it with water, add a root of celery, two hay-
leaves, a few shallots and cloves, a small hunch of
sweet herbs, and 1 teacupful of the best white vinegar.
Boil the head very gently for three hours, then take it off
the fire and leave it in the stewpan until cold. Take the
head carefully out of the stewpan, remove the bindings
and threads, brush the head over with melted meat glaze,
and leave it until it has set. Cut a slice off the neck
part of the head so that the contents may be clearly seen,
put it on a dish, arrange a circle of green bay-leaves and
jelly crofltons round, and serve.
Hashed Pig’s Head. — Put the head, feet and haslet ( see
Haslet) of a Pig into a saucepan with a little water,
and boil until quite tender. Take them out, cut them up
fine, and remove the bones. Put back in the saucepan,
together with two onions chopped small, 1 teaspoonful each
of mace and cloves, a little cayenne, powdered sage, and
salt and pepper. Set the pan on the fire again, and cook
the contents until the whole is done ; then thicken it with
a small quantity of flour, add two hard-boiled eggs
cut into slices, and t pint of walnut ketchup. Turn it out
on a dish, and serve.
Pig’s-Head Cheese. — Thoroughly clean a Pig’s head, split
it into halves, take out the eyes and brains, cut off the
nose and ears, and pour scalding water over the latter and
the head, and scrape them clean. Then rinse all in cold
water, and put them into a saucepan with sufficient water
to cover, and boil gently, taking off the scum as it rises.
When boiled so that the bones leave the meat readily,
take them from the water and put them into a large
wooden bowl or tray. Remove every particle of bone, chop
the meat small, and season to taste with salt and pepper,
and, if liked, a little chopped sage or thyme. Spread a
cloth in a sieve, set it in a deep dish, put in the meat,
then fold the cloth closely over it, lay over a plate with
a weight on it, which will press equally the whole surface.
Let the weight be more or less heavy according as the
cheese is to be fat or lean ; a heavy weight by pressing
out the fat will of course leave the cheese lean. When
cold, scrape off whatever fat may be found on the outside
of the cloth, and keep the cheese in the cloth in a cool
place. It should be sliced thin, and can he eaten with or
without mustard and vinegar or ketchup.
Pig’s-Head Cheese Salad. — Cut some Pig’s-head cheese into
thin small squares; wash some lettuces, pull the leaves
apart, and put them in a salad-bowl with a few dandelion-
leaves, arranging the pieces of meat on the top. Boil an
egg till hard, leave it till cold, then peel and finely-chop
it, and sprinkle the egg all over the salad. Mix some
vinegar and oil together, allowing the latter to predomi-
nate, season the mixture with salt and pepper, pour it
over the salad, and serve it. This is a far better way of
serving Pig’s head cheese than the unsightly method
generally adopted.
Pig’s Head in Jelly. — Clean a small Pig’s head, put it in
a saucepan with the feet, also cleaned, and two calf’s feet,
one onion and a bunch of sweet herbs ; season with salt
and pepper, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and moisten
to height with water ; put the saucepan over the lire until
boiling, then move it to the side and keep the contents
simmering for two or three hours, or until the meat is
soft. When cooked, take the head and feet out of the
liquor and remove all the bones, cut the meat into small
pieces, and mix with it a small quantity of roast meat,
and any remains of cold cooked tongue or poultry. When
the cooking liquor has partly cooled, skim off all the fat,
strain it through a fine hair sieve, return it to the sauce-
pan, and boil until it is reduced to the consistency of
thick jelly. Put the meat into the liquor with a few
pickled gherkins and 1 table-spoonful of vinegar, and season
with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg
Pigs — continued.
or mace. Stir the mixture over the fire until thoroughly
hot. Coat the inside of a mould with a small quantity of
clear gelatine ; arrange at the bottom a design cut out of
pickled beetroot, and around the edges finely-minced parsley
and the separated yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs.
Over these articles place a thin layer of the mince, being
careful not to disarrange them ; leave it until set, then
fill the mould up with the remainder, pack the mould in
ice, or let it stand for one night in a cool place, as the
contents must not be turned out until well set. When
ready to serve, dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, and
turn the head out on to a dish that has been em-
bellished with a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, and garnish with a few sprigs of well-washed parsley.
Fig’s-Head Pudding. — Cut a boiled Pig’s head into small
pieces, put it into a saucepan with the liver of the Pig,
also boiled and cut up, pour over a little warm water,
add a small quantity of butter, a small onion finely chopped,
and salt and pepper to taste. When the mixture is
warmed, turn it out into a baking-dish and stir in a well-
beaten egg ; put the dish in a hot oven, bake for two hours,
take it out, put some slices of hard-boiled eggs on the
top, and lay strips of puff paste over the whole. Bake
until the paste is done, then take it out and serve.
Potted Pig’s Head. — Clean a Pig’s head thoroughly, wash-
ing it in strong salt and water ; put it linto a saucepan
with plenty of water, and boil gently. When very tender,
so that the bones can easily be removed, drain the head,
separate all the meat from the bones, and pass the cook-
ing liquor through a fine hair sieve. When the liquor is
quite cold, skim off the fat, and pour the liquor into a
saucepan, being careful not to disturb the sediment. Cut
the meat into moderate-sized pieces, put it in with the
liquor, and boil for half-an-hour, seasoning to taste with
salt, pepper, and a moderate quantity of Jamaica pepper.
Pour the meat and liquor into moulds, leave until cold,
then tie stout paper over the tops. It may be kept for
six weeks in a cool cupboard.
Pressed Pig’s Head. — Take the different parts of the head
of a Pig as well as the feet, and boil them all in separate
pans. When they are done and quite tender, take them
out, and while they are still warm separate the meat from
the bones and chop it up fine ; sprinkle over with salt,
pepper, and spices to taste. Put it all into a strong
bag, place a weight on the top, and when the meat is cold
put it on a dish, cut it in slices, and either fry it or pour
vinegar over it, and serve. After the parts have been
separated, before boiling, they should be put in salted
water for twenty-four hours.
Roasted Pig's Head. — Clean a Pig’s head, put it into a
saucepan of water, and boil it over a clear fire until quite
tender, when the bones will come out easily. Take it out,
drain, and rub it over with toz. of powdered sage, mixed
with 1 table-spoonful of salt and 2 table-spoonfuls of
pepper. After the bones are taken out, put it in front of a
clear fire and roast for thirty minutes, basting frequently
with the drippings from it mixed with a little warmed
butter. When done, put it on a dish on a bed of boiled
cabbage (see Fig. 226), thicken the gravy slightly with flour,
strain it over, and serve with apple sauce in a sauceboat.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
174 THE ENCYCLOPEDIA
Pigs — continued.
Stewed Marinaded Pig's Head. — Clean the head well, lay
it in a deep dish with a few sliced onions, two or three
slices of lemon, two hay-leaves, 2 or 3 table -spoonfuls of
bruised peppercorns and juniper-berries, and a few cloves.
Dredge over plenty of salt, and baste with 4 or 5 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar. Leave the head for four days, turn-
ing and rubbing it well every day with the marinade.
At the end of that time, dry the head well on a cloth.
Melt a lump of butter in a stewpan, put in the head,
baste it with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of warmed butter, and
place it over the fire until lightly browned. Put about
f pint of water in with the marinading mixture, pour it
over the head, place the lid on the stewpan, and stew the
contents _ at the side of the fire for one-hour- and-a-half,
basting it now and then with the cooking liquor. When
the head is cooked, put it on a hot dish, skim the fat oft'
the sauce, strain it through a fine hah' sieve over the
meat, and serve.
Stewed Stuffed Young Pig’s Head. — Clean the head,
feet, and liver of a young hog, put them in a saucepan
with a little water, and parboil them. Take out the head,
split it up through the nose, and remove all the bones.
Chop the liver and meat from the feet, and season with
salt and pepper. Lay the head open on a table, and put
the mince and the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs in it ;
if there is not sufficient to fill it, add some breadcrumbs
or cracker-crumbs and butter. Sew up the head, and tie
it with fine string or thread; put it in a stewpan with
its stock, and cook gently over a slow fire. Take out the
head, put a piece of butter rolled in flour in the liquor,
and add some browning and walnut ketchup. Place the
head on a dish, pour this over, and serve. Bread-and-
butter should be used in place of the liver if the hog is
not very small.
Stewed Young Pig’s Head. — Clean the head and feet
of a Pig, take out the bone above the nose, cut off the
ears, and clean them thoroughly. Divide the jowl from
the head, and put the brains in a basin. Place the head,
jowl, feet, and part of the liver in a saucepan with suffi-
cient water to cover, and boil until they are quite done
and Fender. Put the meat from the head and liver, cut in
small pieces, into a saucepan with the brains. Split the
feet and add them as well as the jowl, which must remain
intact ; then put in 1 breakfast-cupful of cream, loz.
of butter, 1 table-spoonful of walnut ketchup, one onion
finely chopped, a stalk of celery, and pepper and salt to
taste. A teaspoonful of mustard may be added if desired,
as it is a great improvement. Place the pan on the fire
and stew for thirty minutes. Put the jowl and feet in
the centre of a dish, thicken the hash with a little grated
breadcrumb, pour it round, and serve.
Pig’s Kidneys. — These are by no means equal to
sheep’s kidneys, lacking much of their unctuous flavour.
Nevertheless Pig’s kidneys are not to be despised when
prepared as follows :
Pig’s Kidneys a la Maitre d’Hotel. — Clean and wash
some Pig’s kidneys, cut them down the centre without
quite dividing them, and run them through with a skewer
to keep them flat. Rub them with a little butter, sprinkle
over salt and pepper, put them on a gridiron over a clear
fire, and broil for a-quarter-of-an-hour, when they should be
quite done. Take them off when done, remove the skewers,
put them on a dish, pour over a little maitre-d’hotel
sauce, and serve.
Stewed Pig’s Kidneys.— (1) Put a couple of Pig’s kidneys
in a little cold water, and steep them for a few minutes.
Take them out, drain, cut them into slices, and put them
in a saucepan together with 2oz. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, half that quantity of minced parsley, two
chives, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, and 1 wineglassful of
Madeira. Place the pan on the fire and cook the contents
gently, without letting them boil, for a-quarter-of-an-hour.
They must be stirred constantly, as they are very likely to
burn. When done, put them on a dish, and serve very hot.
Pig’s kidneys may also be cooked in the same way as
sheep’s if desired.
OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Figs — continued.
(2) Wash some Pig’s kidneys, put them into a basin of
water, and let them steep for a few minutes. Take them
out, wipe dry, cut them in slices, and put them into a
saucepan with 1 wineglassful of white wine, 2oz. of butter,
1 table-spoonful of flour, three chives, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, and 1 saltspoonful of pepper. Put
the pan over a slow fire, stirring the mixture continually
to prevent it sticking to the pan ; let it cook for a-quarter-
of-an-hour, without boiling, turn it out on to a dish, and
serve.
Pig’s Liver. — In spite of the tastiness of other parts
of the Pig, the liver by itself is not considered a very
prime dish. Prepared, however, with plenty of seasoning,
as shown in the following receipts, Pig’s liver may be
considered acceptable :
Baked Pig’s Liver. — Wash a Pig’s liver, cut it into slices,
put them in a basiu of water, and soak. Put 24-lb.
of peeled and washed potatoes into a saucepan of
water, and boil until they are tender, then take them out
and mash them. Chop up fine a large Spanish onion, and mix
with it 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley and sage. Well
butter a mould or deep dish, put a layer of the potatoes
at the bottom, then a layer of the slices of liver, and one
or two thin slices of bacon ; dust these well with salt and
pepper, then sprinkle over a little of the onion mixture.
Put another layer of all of these in the same order, finish-
ing with a layer of the mashed potatoes. Pour over a
little water or stock, put the dish or mould in a moderate
oven, and bake the contents for two hours. When done,
turn it out of the dish or mould on to a flat dish, biown
the top and side with a salamander, and serve.
Pig’s Liver Saute. — Thoroughly wash a Pig’s liver and
steep it in water until all the blood has disgorged; cut it
into slices about Jin. thick, and dust them over with salt
and pepper. Lay them in a buttered saute -pan and fry
over a brisk fire, turning them when done on one side ;
just before taking them out of the pan strew over them
some choppied parsley and shallot. A lien quite cooked,
place the slices of liver on a hot dish. Put in the saute -
pan with the butter and seasonings 1 teaspoonful of flour
that has been smoothly mixed with a small quantity of
Fig. 227. Pig’s Liver Saute.
white wine, add a little more butter if necessary, and
stir it over the fire, but do not boil it. Pour the sauce
over the liver, garnish with slices of lemon (see Fig. 227),
and serve at once.
Pig's-Liver Saveloys. — (1) Procure 21b. of Pig’s liver,
scrape it with a knife, then mince it finely. Chop 21b.
of lean cooked pork, and mix with it an equal quantity of
chopped fresh fat bacon and the liver ; sprinkle over the
mixture a little salt, saltpetre, spices, and cayenne pepper,
and pour 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of kirschenwasser over.
Fry three chopped onions anil mix them with the rest.
Chop the preparation for ten minutes more. Soak and
well wash some pig’s intestines, and fill them as full as pos-
sible with the above mixture ; tie them round at din. or
bin. distance from each other, then hang the saveloys in
the air where they will dry. Have a saucepan of boiling
water, put the saveloys in, and let them simmer by the
side of a slow fire for one hour. When done, take the
saucepan away from the fire, and leave the saveloys in the
water for one hour longer. Drain the saveloys, tie them
up in cloths, and when quite cold they are ready for
serving.
(2) Mix with 81b. of finely-chopped raw Pig’s liver 41b.
of finely-chopped fat pork, and season the mixture with
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
175
Figs — continued.
salt, pepper, and pounded cloves ; fill some well-washed and
soaked intestines with it, tie them up, plunge them in a
saucepan of boiling water, anil simmer for one hour. When
cooked, drain the saveloys and wrap them up in cloths.
These should he served quite cold.
(3) Peel and cut into small dice sufficient truffles to
weigh 10oz., boil them for two or three minutes in about
2 table-spoonfuls of Madeira, then mix with the truffles,
in a basin, an equal quantity of fat liver, also cut in dice,
and sprinkle salt and spices over them. Scrape 21b. of
Pig’s liver, chop it, and pass it through a sieve. Cut up
in dice 21b. of fat bacon, and mix it with the liver. Put
21b. of pork, taken from the neck, and cut up in small
pieces, in a frying-pan with a little lard, and fry it over
a moderate fire. When cooked, take it off, let it cool,
then chop it finely, and pass through a sieve ; mix with it
the liver, bacon, and truffles, sprinkle a little saltpetre
and cayenne over the preparation, then finish as described
for No. 1.
Roasted Pig’s Liver. — Cut the liver up into moderate-sized
pieces, put them in a basin, strew over them some fennel-
seed, chopped garlic, and sweet herbs, season with salt
and pepper, and cover with oil. Let the pieces of liver
macerate for several hours, then roll each piece in grated
breadcrumbs. Wrap them up separately in pieces of pig’s
caul, and fix them on a skewer with a bay-leaf between
each. Roast them before a brisk clear fire, and when
cooked, lay the skewers on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich gravy.
Fig’s Tails. — These are generally left by the butcher
attached to the loin. When Pig’s tails can be obtained
separately, they may be cooked as follows :
Boiled Pig’s Tails. — Trim and well wash four or five Pigs’
tails, put them in a saucepan of salted water, and boil
until done. Take them out, drain, wipe them on a cloth,
and arrange on a dish over a puree of peas. Put a few
chopped mushrooms into a frying-pan with a little butter,
ami fry until quite brown ; put them into a saucepan with
a little stock, reduce it, and add the yolks of one or two
eggs to thicken. Pour it, when ready, over the tails, and
serve.
Fig’s Tongues. — It is not usual to find these separated
from the heads. They are very tasty cooked as fol-
lows :
Braised Pig’s Tongues and Pillets of Pork. — Trim olf
the skin from some small fillets of pork that have been
cut from the under loins, beat them flat, and lard them
with fillets of bacon. Place some thin slices of bacon and
sliced onions at the bottom of a stewpan, put in the
fillets, add a bunch of thyme and parsley, and one or two
bay-leaves; moisten with 1 pint of stock, stand it over
the fire till boiling, then put the lid on the stewpan with
some hot ashes on it, and keep it at the side of the fire
till the fillets are tender. Boil three or four small Pigs’
tongues, and when cooked, drain them, cut each into
halves lengthwise, peel ofl the skin, and trim them nicely.
When the fdlets are cooked, glaze them, and also the
halves of tongues. Dress the tongues and fillets alter-
nately on a border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, and
serve with a sauceboatful of tomato sauce.
Cured Pig’s Tongues.— Clean and trim three or four Pigs’
tongues, put them into a saucepan of water, and parboil
them in order to remove the skins. Put them into a
large jar, one on top of the other, fill up the jar with a
good ham pickle, and put a weight on the top of the
tongues so as to keep them immersed. Cover the jar and
let it stand for seven or eight days; then take out the
tongues, dry them on a cloth, squeeze them into prepared
sausage skins, and smoke them. Take them out of the
skins when done, and they are ready for use.
Sucking-Pig. — Charles Lamb wrote of this the fol-
lowing rhapsody : “ Of all the delicacies in the whole
mundus edibilis, I will maintain it to be the most
delicate— 'princess obsoniorum.
Figs — continued.
“ I speak not of your grown porkers — things between
Pig and pork — those hobbidehoys — but a young and tender
suckling — under a moon old — guiltless as yet of the sty —
with no original speck of the amor immunditix, the here-
ditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest— his voice
as yet not broken, but something between a childish treble
and a grumble — the mild forerunner, or prseludium, of a
grunt.
“ He must be roasted or baked. I am not ignorant that
our ancestors ate them seethed or boiled — but what a
sacrifice of the exterior tegument !
“There is no flavour comparable, I will contend, to that
of the crisp, tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted
crackling , as it is well called ; the very teeth are invited
to their share of the pleasure at this banquet in overcoming
the coy brittle resistance, with the adhesive oleaginous
— O call it not fat ! but an indefinable sweetness growing
up to it — the tender blossoming of fat — fat cropped in the
bud, taken in the shoot, in the first innocence — the cream
and quintessence of the child-pig’s yet pure food : the lean,
no lean, but a kind of animal manna, or rather fat and
lean (if it must be so) so blended and running into each
other, that both together make but one ambrosian result
or common substance.”
The Sucking-Pig should not be more than a month
or six weeks old, and if possible it should be dressed
the day after it is killed. The first step is to scald it, and
this is done as follows :
Put a large pan of water over the fire to boil. Steep
the Pig in cold water for fifteen minutes, then plunge it
into the boiling water, hold it by the head and shake it
about until the hairs begin to loosen. Then take it out
of the water and rub it vigorously with a coarse towel
until all the hairs are removed. Cut the pig open, remove
the entrails, and wash it thoroughly in plenty of cold
water. Dry the Pig on a towel, cut the feet off at the
first joint, lea rung sufficient skin to turn over, and keep it
wrapped in a wet cloth until ready to use.
Baked Sucking-Pig1. — (1) Choose a small plump Pig. Use
the liver, heart, and lights for the dressing, after first
putting them over the fire in salted boiling water, and
boiling them until tender, or mincing them after brown-
ing them in butter. Peel and grate an onion, put it
over the fire in a frying-pan with 2 table-spoonfuls of
butter, and fry it slowly ; mince the heart, liver, kidneys,
and add them to the onion ; soak 2 breakfast-cupfuls of
bread in cold water until soft, then squeeze it in a towel
to extract the water, and put it with the minced mixture
and onion ; season the mixture highly with salt, pepper,
ground sage, and marjoram, and stir it until it is scalding
hot. Use this stuffing for the Pig, sewing it up; truss it
Fig. 228. Baked Sucking-Pig.
so as to keep the legs in place, put it into a dripping-pan
just large enough to hold it, and bake it in a moderate
oven. For the first hour baste it with butter and hot
water, and after that with butter alone. If the ears and
tail seem in danger of browning, wrap them in buttered
paper, season the Pig with salt and pepper two or three
times while it is being basted. A medium sized Pig will
take from two to two-hours-and-a half to bake. When
the Pig is done, put it on a dish to keep hot after reniov-
For details respecting Culinary Processes. Utensils . Sauces. <tc., referred to. see under their special heads.
176
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigs — continued.
ing the stitches which retain the stuffing, and garnish
with brussels sprouts and potato croquettes (see Fig. 228).
Place the dripping-pan over the fire, stir in 1 table-
spoonful of flour, and brown it ; then add equal quantities
of boiling water and wine, or three-parts of water and one
of mushroom or walnut ketchup. Let the gravy thus
made boil once, season it with salt and pepper, and then
serve it with the baked Pig. The stuffing may he varied
by using mashed potatoes instead of soaked bread. Apple
sauce is the usual accompaniment. Cold slam and cranberry
jelly or stewed cranberries are used in South America
with roasted or baked sucking Pig. Prepare the apple
sauce as follows : Peel, core, and quarter some tart
apples, stew them to a pulp over a slow fire, adding at
first 3 table-spoonfuls of water to 1 pint of apples, to
prevent burning ; when the apples are stewed to a pulp,
stir them with 1 table-spoonful of butter to each pint of
the sauce, and then use the sauce either hot or cold.
(2) Clean and wash a small Pig, rub it well all over
with butter, and then sprinkle with flour. Put it into a
well-buttered baking-dish, and set it in the oven to hake
for about two hours. When done, take the Pig out, rub
it well with a greased cloth, and put it hack in the oven,
with the door open, to dry. Take it out, chop off its
head, which must be split in halves, then cut the Pig in
halves lengthwise and put it on a dish, back to hack,
and place the halves of head at either end. Skim off the
fat from the liquor in the baking dish, add a little veal
gravy and a small lump of butter rolled in flour to thicken
it, boil it up once, pour it through a sieve over the Pig,
and serve.
(3) Clean a young Pig, stuff it with potatoes, boiled
and mashed together with a little milk, and add salt and
pepper to taste. Sew up the belly and truss it with the
fore legs secured backwards and' the hind-legs forward.
Put it on a trivet in a baking-pan, cover with small
lumps of butter, and dust over with flour, salt and pepper.
Put the pan in a hot oven, pour 1 pint of water in it,
and let it bake, hasting it with the water and drippings.
When it is nearly done, haste it with 2 table-spoonfuls
of butter, shut the oven door, and let it remain until
quite done, which will be about two hours in all. Take
it out, put it carefully on a dish ; thicken the gravy with
a little flour, stir it well, boil it up and strain it over
the Pig. Serve a little currant or apple sauce with it in
a sauceboat.
Galantine of Sucking-Pig. — Use a freshly killed Sucking-
Pig, split it lengthwise, remove the inside, and wash it
thoroughly. Bone the Pig, with the exception, of the head
hones and the hones of the first joints of the feet. Chop
21b. of lean veal, Jib. of tongue, bib. of ham, and Jib. of
fat bacon. Put the veal and bacon in a mortar, and pound
them to a smooth paste. Add 1 breakfast-cupful of stale
breadcrumbs and Jib. of butter, and pound again. When the
above mixture is quite smooth, mix with it the chopped
ham and tongue, four hard-boiled eggs, 2 table-spoonfuls
of blanched pistachio -nuts, and 1 wineglassful of brandy.
Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity
each of grated nutmeg and mace. Stir these ingredients
so that they get thoroughly well mixed together, stuff
the Pig with the mixture, and sew it up. Wrap the
Pig in a piece of calico, and hind it round securely with
tape. Put a plate at the bottom of a large saucepan, in
which put the bones of the Pig, a calf’s foot cut into
small pieces, a hunch of sweet herbs, two or three
cloves, the same of peppercorns, a clove of garlic, and a
French roll cut into halves. Put in the Pig, pour in
sufficient French light wine to cover, and close the lid
tightly. Place the saucepan over the fire until the liquor
boils, then move it to the side and keep it simmering for
five hours. When the Pig is cooked, drain it, remove the
bindings and cloth, rub it over with pure oil, and dredge
with a small quantity of salt, then put it in a brisk
oven. When nicely browned, stand the Pig on its feet
on a long dish. Strain the cooking liquor of the Pig
through a fine hair sieve, and leave both until the following
day. Remove all the fat that will have settled on the
top of the jelly, put the jelly into a saucepan, and place
Pigs — continued.
it over a slow fire until melted. Beat the whites and
shells of two eggs together, then stir them quickly into
jelly. Continue stirring until boiling, then strain it
through a jelly-hag until quite clear. Brown half of the
jelly with brown colouring, leave it with the plain jelly
until set, then cut it into fancy-shaped pieces, and garnish
the Pig with it. If placed upon ice, the galantine may
be kept for a week or two.
Roasted Sucking-Pig. — (1) Clean a Sucking-Pig, and stuff it
with veal forcemeat. Sew up the belly, and truss it with the
legs brought together at the sides. Wipe it well with a cloth
and rub it all over with flour. Put it in front of a clear
fire with a dripping-pan under it, and let it roast, basting
frequently with a little olive-oil or its own gravy, or
both, and occasionally brushing it over with butter.
When done (it will take from an-hour-and-a-half to two
hours), take it up, and with a sharp knife cut off the
head, and split it in halves. Then cut the Pig down the
Fig. 229. Roasted Sucking-Pig.
centre of the hack, lay the halves hack to hack on the dish,
and put the halves of head at each end (see Fig. 229),
in which the dotted lines indicate the manner of carving.
Add a little thin melted butter and lemon-juice to the
gravy, boil it up, and strain it over the Pig. A little
only of the gravy should he poured over, and the remainder
served in a sauceboat if desired.
(2) Clean and wash a Sucking-Pig, and stuff it with a
forcemeat made as follows: Put the crumb of a French
roll into a basin with 6oz. of finely-slired beef-suet, and
add the peel of half a lemon chopped up with a sprig of
parsley and six sage-leaves. Sprinkle over salt and pepper
to taste, and mix it into a paste with the yolks of two
eggs. Sew up the cut with strong thread, put the Pig on
the spit, and roast it before a clear fire until nearly done.
Remove it from the lire, and take out the stuffing care-
fully, in one piece if possible. Cut the Pig up into small
pieces or slices, and put them into a saucepan with 3
breakfast-cupfuls of gravy, 1 of white wine, and a couple
of onions cut up small. Add a little seasoning of thyme,
the peel of half a lemon finely -minced, and grated nutmeg,
cayenne, and salt to taste. Cover the pan closely, set the
pan on the fire, and stew gently for an hour. Then put
in a small lump of butter rolled in flour, 1 table-spoonful
of mushroom pickle, the same of anchovy sauce, and lastly
the stuffing cut into small squares. Cook for fifteen
minutes longer, then take out the pieces of Pig’s meat,
arrange them on a dish, pour the remainder over, and
serve.
Timbale of Sucking-Pig. — Cut up half a small Sucking-Pig
into small pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a
little mirepoix and white wine, and boil them. Take
out the pieces of meat, and let them cool, removing the
hones if any. Add a little calf’s-foot jelly to the
liquor, and clarify it. Pack a large-sized timbale mould in
ice, place poached eggs intermixed with sliced gherkins and
slices of beetroot at the bottom and round the sides,
dipping each into half-set jelly to keep them fixed in
their places. Pour a thick layer of jelly at the bottom
of the mould, and when it is set and firm, arrange the
pieces of Pig’s meat, alternating with minced gherkins
, and whole capers, taking care to leave a hollow space in
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, i-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
177
Pigs — continued.
the centre. Fill this cavity with almost cold hut stiff
liquid jelly, and let it set firm. Turn the pain out on to
a dish, and serve with a little horseradish sauce in a
sauceboat.
PIGEONS (Fr. Pigeons; Ger. Tauben; Ital. Co-
lombi; Sp. Colombis). — Excepting for the purpose of
making pies, Pigeons are not much used by British cooks.
To the Continental cook, next to fowls, the Pigeon ranks
highest as a culinary bird, being used in innumerable
ways. Of the tribe to which the Pigeon belongs ( Colombo. ),
there are innumerable varieties all over the world; so
many, indeed, that it would be impossible for the cook
to distinguish one from the other when stripped of their
beautiful plumage. The British Pigeon requires no
special description. It should be plump and young, and
the feet, being usually left on even after trussing, will
be the best indication of its age. In France, Pigeons
are especially bred and fattened for the market, those
from Bordeaux being especially high-class, giving their
name consequently to fatted Pigeons generally, whether
bred in that or any other part of the European continent.
The season for them lasts from March to October. We
are informed by a famous poulterer that old Pigeons
can be detected by the thinness of their breasts and limbs,
and the darkness of their skins. The flesh on the breast
of the young bird should be of a light red colour, and
the claws pinkish. Wild or wood Pigeons are usually
larger than tame Pigeons ; the same rules for selecting,
preparing, and cooking apply equally to all. The common
name for wood Pigeon is Cushat, and the common term
for young Pigeons of any kind is Squabs. Under the
latter heading will be found some special receipts for
nestling Pigeons or other young birds, which are all
included correctly under that name.
Pigeons should always, if possible, be drawn directly
they are killed, then well washed and thoroughly dried.
They are trussed by cutting off the neck and head, also
Fig. 230. Pigeon Trussed for Roasting or Boiling.
the toes at the first joint, then crossing the wings over the
back, and securing these with a skewer thrust through
them and the body (see Fig. 230) ; they are then ready for
roasting.
Ballotines of Pigeons.— These are prepared in tire same
way as Ballotines of Quails, substituting Bordeaux
Pigeons for quails.
Boiled Pigeons. — (1) Singe and draw eight Pigeons and bone
them. Wash and scald the livers of the Pigeons and eight
livers of chickens. Chop them together, and mix with
them lib. of chopped veal and Jib. of chopped bacon.
Put the chopped meats into a saucepan with loz. of
butter, a blade of mace, and a small quantity of salt and
pepper. Stir them constantly over the fire for ten minutes,
then add Jib. of breadcrumbs. Pound the forcemeat smoothly,
and put in more seasoning if required. Stuff the Pigeons
with the mixture, truss them neatly into shape, put them
into a saucepan, pour over 1 pint of stock, and let them
simmer gently for an hour. Drain the Pigeons, and lean
Pigeons — continued.
them against a pile of mashed potatoes in the centre of
a dish. Boil the cooking liquor till reduced to a small
quantity, and glaze the Pigeons with it. While the
birds are cooking, put their bones into a saucepan with
a shallot, three cloves, \ pint of stock, and J pint of
water, and boil them for an hour. Then strain the
liquor from the bones into a stewpan, stir in 1 dessert-
spoonful of flour which has been first worked smooth in a
little cold water, and boil up for ten minutes longer. Pour
this gravy into a tureen, and serve with the Pigeons.
Garnish the dish with fried parsley (see Fig. 231).
(2) Prepare and trass the birds as for stewing. Lay a
slice of bacon over the breast of each bird, wrap them
separately in small cloths, and boil them gently in stock.
Wash 4oz. of rice, put it into a saucepan with sufficient
veal stock to cook it without making it too liquid, and
boil gently until tender. When the rice is cooked, mix
with it 2 table-spoonfuls of cream, and season it with
salt and pepper. When the Pigeons are cooked, remove
the cloths, divide each bird into halves, splitting them
lengthwise, place them on a hot dish, pile the rice all
round them, and serve.
Braised. Pigeons. — Draw and wash three young Pigeons,
wipe them well, and stuff them with breadcrumbs that
have been well seasoned and moistened with warmed
butter, and cook them in a braising- pan. Boil some
spinach, finely chop it, and season with salt and pepper.
Toast three slices of bread, lay them on a hot dish, spread
the spinach over them, put a pigeon on each slice, and
serve with a sauceboatful of gravy.
Braised Pigeons Stuffed with Parsley. — Wash some
parsley in two or three waters, cut off the large stems,
and finely chop it, allowing 1 pint for each bird, and
adding while chopping, salt, pepper, and 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of water. Draw and clean the Pigeons, stuff
them with the parsley, put in their hearts, and a square inch
of salt pork for each bird. Cook the Pigeons in a braising-
pan. When done, put them on a hot dish, and serve with
a sauceboatful of gravy.
Broiled Pigeons. — Clean the Pigeons, split them down the
back, wipe them with a damp towel, and sprinkle salt
and pepper over them. Roll them in warmed butter,
dredge them with flour, and broil for ten minutes over
a clear fire, turning to do both sides equally. Toast
some thick slices of bread without the crust, butter them,
and put them on a hot dish. When cooked, lay the
Pigeons on the toast, garnish round with parsley, and
serve.
Broiled Pigeons a la Crapaudine. — Clean two Pigeons,
cut them lengthwise under the breast, beat them flat, and
season them with pepper and salt. Put the Pigeons into
a saute-pan with 1 table-spoonful of butter, and fry them
for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Drain the Pigeons, put them
between two plates with a weight on the top, and leave
them till cold. Fry 1 table-spoonful of chopped shallot
in the saute -pan, then pour in J pint of broth, season
with a small quantity of pepper, and boil till reduced to
half its original quantity. Skim the fat off the gravy,
strain it through a pointed strainer into a smaller stew-
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VOL. II.
N
178
the encyclopedia of practical cookery.
Pigeons — continued.
pan, and keep it hot. Roll the pieces of Pigeons in
warmed butter, then in breadcrumbs, and broil them over
a clear fire, browning both sides equally. Put the Pigeons
on a hot dish, garnish round with slices of lemon, and
serve with the gravy in a sauceboat.
Broiled Pigeons en Fapillotes.— Clean the Pigeons, put
them into a stewpan with chopped bacon, a lump of
butter, and a small quantity of pepper, salt, and grated
nutmeg. Fry them slowly, and when half-done, put in
with them mushrooms, a minced shallot, an’d sweet herbs.
When nicely but not over done, take the Pigeons out
and leave them to get cold. Then split the birds in
halves lengthwise, sprinkle them over with pepper, salt,
and powdered sweet herbs, and wrap each piece in buttered
writing paper. Broil them over a clear slow fire for twenty
minutes, turning them to do them equally. Put the
pieces of Pigeons on a hot dish on which a folded napkin
or ornamental dish-paper has been placed, garnish round
with slices of lemon, and serve.
Chartreuse of Pigeons. — (1) Peel an equal quantity of
carrots and turnips and cut them into small balls with a
vegetable-cutter, and boil them separately in salt and water,
keeping them a little firm. Drain the vegetables, wipe
them on a cloth, and leave them till cold. Cut the fillets
off some plump young Pigeons, trim away the sinewy
skin, beat them lightly, season them with salt and pepper,
and lay them in a buttered saute-pan. Thickly butter a
plain border mould, arrange the vegetable balls in circles
alternately round the sides, fill the hollow of the mould
with potatoes that have been boiled and mashed with a
little butter, and stand the mould in the bain-marie for an
hour. When ready, fry the fillets over a quick fire, turn-
ing them. When cooked, drain off the butter, pour over
them 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of glaze, and keep them hot.
Turn the decorated border out of the mould on to a hot
dish, and fill the centre with some chopped and cooked
young vegetables that have been mixed with some bechamel
sauce. Arrange the fillets almost upright on the border,
letting them slightly overlap each other, and serve with a
sauceboatful of brown sauce which has been prepared with
the legs and trimmings of the Pigeons.
(2) Peel some carrots and turnips, and with a tin cutter
cut them into sticks 4in. long, using the red part only
or the carrots. Boil the vegetables till three- parts done
in salted water, then drain them and leave till cold.
Line an oval timbale mould with buttered paper, then
arrange round the sides, first three sticks of turnips lying
lengthwise on the top of each other, next four sticks of
carrots standing up, then three more sticks of turnips,
and so on, putting them alternately all round the mould,
and building them up by putting four sticks of carrots on
the three sticks of turnips, and three sticks of turnips on
four sticks of carrots, so that when turned out of the
mould it may have the appearance of red and white
squares. Support the vegetables by applying inwardly a
thin layer of forcemeat. The bottom of the mould must
also be spread with forcemeat. Blanch a cabbage and lib.
of bacon, and braise them, together with a small raw
sausage. Draw four large Pigeons, clean them well, and
trass them with their legs inside. Cook them in a brais-
ing-pan, and when done divide each into four parts.
Remove all the skin and bones of the Pigeons, put the
meat into a stewpan, and pour over it 4 or 5 table-spoon-
fuls of brown sauce. When the cabbage is done, press it, to
drain off the moisture and fat ; remove the stalk and
bruise it; cut the sausage and bacon up. Fill the hollow
of the timbale, in alternate layers, with the cabbage, bacon,
sausage, and Pigeons, put a layer of forcemeat on the top,
stand the chartreuse in the bain-marie, and poach it for
three-quarters-of-an-liour. Boil separately in salted water
some green peas, green and white asparagus, and cucumbers.
Braise some cabbage lettuces, and glaze the cucumbers when
cooked. When ready, turn the timbale over on a dish in
order to drain it, without taking off the mould, slip it
on to another dish, garnish round the chartreuse with
alternate groups of asparagus, green peas, and cucumber,
and put the lettuce, spread out, on the top, with a pile of
green peas in the centre. Thicken the liquor in which the
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils ,
Pigeons — continued.
Pigeons were cooked with a little white sauce, and serve
the chartreuse with a sauceboatful of it.
Chaudfroid of Pigeons. — Prepare and truss the Pigeons as
for roasting, and season them -until salt and pepper. Put
them in a baking-dish, pour round some veal stock, and
bake them, basting occasionally with the liquor in the
pan. When cooked, drain and cut the Pigeons into con-
venient sized pieces. When the stock is cold, skim off
all the fat, pour it into a small saucepan, add the white
of an egg, and boil it until reduced to a jelly. Then
strain it through a napkin and let it get cold. Put the
Pigeon on a dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, cut the jelly into
crofttons and place round them, garnish with a few sprigs
of fresh green watercress, and serve.
Compote of Pigeons. — (1) Singe and draw six Pigeons and
trass them. Prepare a forcemeat with fib. of finely-chopped
bacon, 1 breakfast-cupful of grated breadcrumbs, a little
finely-chopped parsley and thyme, the grated peel of half
a lemon, and a dust of salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; stir in
two well-beaten eggs and mix them well together. Stuff
the Pigeons with the forcemeat, put them in a stewpan
with some thin slices of bacon over the breasts, and fry
them lightly. Cover the Pigeons with beef stock and stew
them for three-quarters-of-an-liour. When cooked, take the
Fig. 232. Compote of Pigeons.
birds out and place them on a hot dish ; thicken the gravy
with a piece of butter that has been rolled in flour, strain
it over the birds, and serve (see Fig. 232). Garnish round
with stewed button mushrooms.
(2) Procure three young live Pigeons and bleed them at
the neck, collect the blood, and mix with it 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar to keep it liquid. Pluck, singe, and
draw the Pigeons, truss them with their legs inward, put
them into a stewpan with ^lh. of streaky bacon cut in
squares, twelve small onions, and a lump of butter, and
fry them till nicely browned ; then dust in a handful of
flour and a little salt. Two minutes after, cover them with
white wine and broth, mixed in equal quantities, and add
a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs and a pinch of pepper.
When boiling, move the saucepan to the side of the fire
and simmer till the Pigeons are done, adding at the last
moment the livers and blood. When cooked, take the
Pigeons out, un truss them, put them on a hot dish, and
garnish round with the onions and bacon. Take the bunch
of herhs and parsley from the sauce, strain it through
a sieve over the Pigeons, and serve.
Curried Pigeons (Indian).— Put 4 teaspoonfuls of ground
onions, 1 teaspoonful each of ground chillies and turmeric,
half the quantity of ground ginger, and \ teaspoonful of ground
garlic into a saucepan with 2oz. of boiling fat, and cook until
the ingredients are slightly browned; add four young
Pigeons, each cut up into quarters, and about I teaspoonful
of salt, and cook until they are browned ; then add 2
breakfast-cupfuls of water, and continue to stew slowly until
the Pigeons are cooked. Turn the curry out on to a hot
dish, and serve very hot.
Epigrammes of Pigeons.— Cut the fillets off four Pigeons
and remove the skin and minion fillets. Beat the minion
fillets lightly and put them on the larger ones. Dust salt
t and pepper over them, arrange them on the bottom of a
uces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
179
Pigeons — continued.
flat stewpan with some clarified butter, and cover over
with a sheet of buttered paper. Cut the meat off the legs
of the Pigeons, and with that, the trimmings of the fillets,
and an equal quantity of poultry flesh, prepare some
quenelle forcemeat; take up 6 table-spoonfuls of it, put
them on a floured table, and shape each spoonful like the
fillet of the Pigeons. Place them, side by side, in a buttered
saute-pan, stand it in the bain-marie, and poach them ;
when done, drain and leave them till cool. Dip the forcemeat
fillets in beaten eggs, and roll them in breadcrumbs seasoned
with sweet herbs. Fry the fillets of Pigeons, and at the
same time the fillets of forcemeat, in a flat stewpan with
a piece of butter. When nicely browned on both sides,
drain the fat off the fillets of Pigeons, pour over them 2
table-spoonfuls of melted glaze and 1 table-spoonful of
Madeira; boil it, then move the pan off the fire. Put the
fillets on a hot dish in a circle, alternating them with the
fillets of forcemeat, fill the centre with a puree of vegetables
or chestnuts, pour a little rich brown gravy over them,
and serve with a sauceboatful of the same.
Fillets of Pigeons a la d’Uxelle. — Cut twelve fillets off
some Pigeons, trim and beat them with a cutlet-bat, put
them in a stewpan with a piece of butter, sprinkle with
salt, and fry them over a brisk fire. When cooked and
nicely browned, drain, and leave them till cold. Dip
the fillets in cold d’Uxelle sauce, roll them in breadcrumbs,
then egg them and roll them again in breadcrumbs. Put
the fillets in a frying-pan with some clarified butter, and
brown them. Arrange the fillets in a circle on a hot dish,
fill the centre with chopped mushrooms that have been
cooked in Provencale sauce, and serve with a sauceboatful
of thin Spanish sauce.
Fillets of Pigeons, Stuffed. — Cut the fillets off five Pigeons,
remove their minion fillets, and truss them ; beat them with
the wet handle of a knife, split them 'without separating
them, and dust them over with salt and spices. Fry
the livers and chop them up small. Chop the trimmings,
minion fillets, the same quantity of fresh bacon, a small
piece of ham, and a handful of cooked fine herbs, such as
mushrooms, onions, truffles, and shallots ; mix them all well
together, and add a little melted glaze to bind it. When
cool, stuff the Pigeon fillets with the mixture, pressing
them slightly. Beat two eggs with a little warmed butter,
dip the fillets in, then roll them in breadcrumbs. Put
them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire for
fifteen minutes, turning them frequently. When cooked,
arrange the Pigeons on a hot dish, and garnish round 'with
green peas and crofttons of fried bread.
Fricandeau of Pigeons. — Singe and draw four Pigeons,
truss them as for roasting, remove the feet and pinions,
lard the breasts, and stuff them with forcemeat. Place some
thin slices of fat bacon in a stewpan, then a layer of
veal, put in the Pigeons, also a blade of beaten mace,
a bunch of sweet herbs, and a dust of salt and pepper;
cover the birds with some more veal and bacon. Prepare
with the bones and trimmings 1 pint of gravy, pour it in
with the Pigeons, put the lid on the stewpan, and let the
contents stew gently for one hour. Take the Pigeons out,
skim and strain the gravy, then boil it till reduced to half
its original quantity; put the Pigeons in again, and stand
them over the fire for five minutes. Lay the Pigeons on
a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with slices of
lemon, and serve.
Fricasseed Pigeons.— Singe and draw two Pigeons and
wipe them well with a damp cloth. Cut them into pieces,
and put them in a saucepan ; pour in 1 pint each of
claret and water, add a blade of mace, one onion, a bunch
of sweet herbs, a small quantity of pepper and salt, and
14 table-spoonfuls of butter that has been kneaded with a
little flour. Put the lid on the saucepan, and let the
contents simmer for three-quarters-of-an-liour. Take the
pieces of Pigeons out, put them on a hot dish, and keep
them hot. Strain the gravy, and stir in with it the yolks
of three eggs; when thick, pour it over the Pigeons, put
some fried oysters over the top, garnish round with crofttons
of fried bread, and serve.
Pigeons — continued.
Fried Pigeons. — Pluck and prepare three Pigeons for cook-
ing, split them into halves lengthwise, remove the
breast bone, and beat the flesh flat. Put the pieces in a
frying-pan with 2oz. of butter and 1 pinch each of pepper
and salt. When fried, put the Pigeons between two
plates with a weight on the top, and leave them till cold.
Prepare Jib. of quenelle forcemeat, and spread it over the
side of each half ; roll them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry them in clarified fat. When cooked, put them in
a circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with a macedoine of
vegetables, pour some hot brown sauce round, and serve.
Fried Pigeons with. Celery. — Cut three Pigeons into halves,
brush them over with egg, dip them into breadcrumbs,
plunge them into a pan of boiling lard, and fry them.
Have ready a puree of celery, put it on a dish, place the
halves of Pigeons on top, and serve with crofttons of fried
bread for garnish.
Fried Pigeon Cutlets. — (1) Remove the wing-bones from
four Pigeons and tuck the leg-bones inside. Cut them in
halves, dust them with salt and pepper, and put them
into a sautd-pan with a little butter, and fry them. When
they are done, press them between two boards with a
weight on top until they are cold. Dip them first in
butter and then in breadcrumbs, and broil over a good
fire to colour them. Place them in a circle on a dish.
The cavity in the centre may be filled either with French
beans, asparagus, peas, sliced mushrooms, or with a mace-
doine of various vegetables.
(2) Remove the flesh from the breasts of eight Pigeons,
and put them into a mortar with the same bulk of calf’s
udder, and well pound them, to make a forcemeat,
adding two eggs, and mixing well with plenty of season-
ing. Spread the forcemeat upon a buttered tin about
the same thickness as a mutton chop, and let it get
cold ; cut it into the shape of cutlets with a knife. Put
the tin over a fire to just melt the butter. Take the
pinion bones, scrape them well, and use them for the
bones of the mock cutlets. Dip the cutlets first into egg,
then into breadcrumbs, and fry them, taking care not to
let the dripping get too hot so that they will be burnt
before done through. Put them in a circle on a dish with
fried parsley or Italian sauce in the centre, and serve with
a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
Jugged Figeons. — Singe and draw four Pigeons and wipe
them with a damp cloth. Boil the livers, then mince and
pound them. Mix with the livers the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs, the grated peel of half a lemon, and an equal •
quantity of chopped beef-suet and breadcrumbs ; season
with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind the in-
gredients together with a well-beaten egg and a piece of
butter. Stuff the birds with the forcemeat and sew up
the openings. Dip them in warm water, then put them
into an earthenware jar with two or three sticks of celery
broken in small pieces, four cloves, three or four sprigs of
thyme and parsley, and h pint of Madeira. Tie a stout
piece of paper over the jar, stand it in a saucepan with
boiling water up to three-parts its height, and let it
simmer gently for three hours. At the end of that time,
strain the gravy off the Pigeons into a stewpan, and
thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour. Put the
Pigeons on a hot dish, garnish round with slices of lemon,
pour the gravy over, and serve.
Pigeons a la Bourgeoise. — Clean and trass twro Bordeaux
Pigeons, and braise them for three-quarters-of-an-hour.
Stone six olives, and shape six pieces of carrots and six pieces
of turnips like olives; boil them in a weak stock together
with six mushrooms and eight small quenelles. When
these are cooked, cut the Pigeons into four pieces each and
put them on a hot dish ; pour \ pint of hot brown sauce over
them, arrange the vegetables and quenelles tastefully about,
and garnish with nicely-shaped crofttons of fried bread. This
is a very plain and unpretentious, but delicious, mode of
cooking Bordeaux Pigeons.
Figeons a, la Duchesse. — Clean the Pigeons, cut them
into quarters, pour boiling water over the clawrs, and when
sufficiently soaked trim off the skin and nails. Dust the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
N
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180
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigeons — continued.
birds over with black pepper and a little allspice, rubbing
it in lightly with the hands; lay them in a basin, pour
some red wine over them, put a plate over the basin, and
leave them for several hours. When sufficiently steeped
(they are better if left in the wine for one night), put
the birds with the wine into a stewpan, pour in enough
brown stock to cover, and boil them gently at the edge
of the fire. In about an hour’s time, when the birds
will be sufficiently cooked, drain them, and pound their
livers in a mortar. Boil the cooking stock quickly until
reduced to half its original quantity, then mix with it the
pounded livers and 1 table-spoonful of desiccated cocoanut.
Arrange the wings and claws of the birds together to form
a centre piece for the dish, putting a piece of watercress
in each claw. Put it in the middle of a hot dish, lay the
quarters of birds round it, putting between each quarter a
small roll of fried bacon, pour round the thickened gravy,
garnish the edge of the dish with a fringe of watercress,
on which lay quarters of lemon, and serve.
Pigeons a la Financiere. — Put four Pigeons, cleaned and
trussed, into a stewpan, with some thin slices of fat bacon
on the top, and chicken broth to their height ; put a
sheet of buttered paper over them, close the stewpan, and
stew the Pigeons gently till tender. Prepare a ragofit of
truffles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs and some chicken
quenelles, mixed in financiere sauce. Fry a block of
bread 3in. high and narrower at the top than at the
bottom. Drain the Pigeons and rest them against it, put
some of the ragofit round the dish, and some piled irp
Fig. 253. Pigeons 1 la Financiere.
between the birds. Put a larded and glazed sweetbread
on the top of the bread (see Fig. 233). Pour a small
quantity of financiere sauce over the Pigeons, and serve
with some more in a sauceboat.
Pigeons a l’lniperiale.— Clean and bone the Pigeons, and
season them inwardly with small quantities of powdered
allspice, mace, coriander and cardamom seeds, salt, white
and cayenne pepper, nibbing it well in the flesh. Turn
them the right side out again, and lay them in a
deep dish. Pour into a lined saucepan 1 pint of marsala
and h pint of white wine vinegar, add two or three bay-
leaves, \ table-spoonful of sliced and bruised ginger, and
i teaspoonful of bruised cloves. Place the saucepan over a
slow fire, boil the contents gently for two or three minutes,
then pour the liquor immediately over the birds. Let the
birds steep in the pickle, which should well cover them,
for one night ; on the following morning drain and wipe
them on a clean cloth. Prepare a sufficient quantity of
forcemeat to stuff the birds, with their livers which should
be partially boiled and finely chopped, the yolks of two or
three hard-boiled eggs, and some breadcrumbs. Season the
forcemeat to taste, bind it with beaten egg, and stuff the
birds with it, giving them then- original shape. Lard the
breasts of the birds with thin fillets of fat bacon, brush
them over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, and
roll them in grated breadcrumbs. Put a large lump of
butter into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire, and when
the blue smoke rises, lay in the birds on their backs first,
but afterwards turning them over on to their breasts, and
fry them a light golden colour. String some cardoons, cut
them into pieces a little more than lin. in length, put
them in a stewpan, with some claret and a few drops of
cochineal to give them a bright red colour, and cook them.
When tender, place the cardoons on a hot dish; mix 1
table-spoonful of potato flour and 1 table-spoonful of butter
with their cooking liquor, season it to taste with salt,
Pigeons — continued.
white and cayenne pepper, and stir it over the fire until
thickened ; then pour it over the cardoons. Drain the
birds as free from fat as possible, and lay them on the
bed of cardoons. Garnish them with fried parsley and cut
lemons, and serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown
sauce. The sauce can be made with the marinade of the
birds, thickened with a brown roux.
Pigeons a la Julienne. — Procure the required quantity of
nice young Pigeons, pluck, singe, and draw them, and
truss them as for boiling. Lay them side by side in a
stewpan, moisten to height with strong clear jelly stock,
and place them over the fire. When the liquor begins
to boil, put in some dried julienne vegetables that have
been well soaked in cold water. Season to taste with
pepper, salt, and allspice, and let them simmer at the edge
of the fire until the birds are sufficiently cooked. Put 1
table-spoonful of flour in a basin and mix it smoothly with
a small quantity of clear cold stock, also a small quantity
each of walnut ketchup and Worcester sauce. Take
the Pigeons out when tender, and if the vegetables are not
quite cooked, boil them a little longer. When ready,
stir the above mixture in with the vegetables, boil it a
minute or two, then put the Pigeons back again to warm
up. Arrange the Pigeons on a hot dish, pour the vegetables
and sauce over them, and serve.
Pigeons in Aspic Jelly. — (1) Wash and truss twelve
Pigeons, put them in a large saucepan with 4lb. of the
shank of veal, one onion that has been fried, one stick of
celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, five or six cloves, two
dozen peppercorns, and 4iqts. of water. When boiling,
move the pan to the side of the fire and let the contents
simmer for three hours, adding at the end of the first
hour 2 table-spoonfuls of salt. When ready, take the
Pigeons out carefully so as not to break them, and remove
the strings. Draw the saucepan forward, where it will
boil rapidly, and keep it there for forty minutes ; then
strain the liquor through a fine hail- sieve, adding more
seasoning if necessary. The liquor should be reduced to
2Jqts. during boiling. Have two large moulds that will
hold six Pigeons each, pour a little of the liquor into each,
and set them on ice to harden. Arrange the Pigeons on
the set jelly, cover them with the liquor, which must be
cool but not hardened, and set the moulds in the ice chest
for twelve hours. When ready to serve, dip the moulds in
tepid water, wipe them, and turn the contents on to a
Fig. 234. Pigeons in Aspic Jelly.
cold dish. Garnish round the dish with chopped jelly, slices
of pickled beetroot, and some nicely-picked sprays of
parsley (see Fig. 234), and serve with a sauceboatful of
Tartar sauce.
(2) Put a cow-heel in a saucepan with a bunch of sweet
herbs, the peel of half a lemon, half a blade of mace, and
3qts. of water, and boil it for six hours. Skim the fat
off the jelly, clarify it with the whites and shells of three
eggs, and after it has stood a few minutes strain it
several times through a jelly-bag. Truss two Pigeons
with their legs bent under, roast them, and when done
and nicely browned leave them till cool. Pour some jelly
into a mould that will hold the Pigeons, put the birds in
upside-down, then fill up the mould with jelly, and keep
it in a cold place. On the following day, turn the jellied
Pigeons on to a dish, and serve.
Pigeon and Beef-steak Pie. — Prepare and cut a couple
, of Pigeons into quarters; cut five or six thin slices of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigeons — continued.
steak, and as many thin rashers of streaky bacon. Lay
a slice of bacon on each slice of steak, and roll them up.
Dust the quarters of Pigeon over with salt, pepper, and
powdered spices, put a small lump of butter on each piece,
lay them with the rolls of steak in a pie-dish, put in a
few sliced hard-boiled eggs, and pour over them some liquid
aspic jelly; cover the pie with a good crust, trimming it
evenly round the edges, brush it over with a paste-brush
dipped in beaten yolk of egg, and bake it for about an
hour in a quick oven. Serve the pie either hot or
cold.
Pigeons in a Case. — Singe and clean three young Pigeons
and bone the breasts. Prepare a quenelle forcemeat, and
mix with it a salpifon of raw ham and 3 table-spoonfuls
of cooked line herbs. Stuff the birds with the forcemeat,
truss them with their legs inward, and cover them with
thin layers of fat bacon. Put some chopped bacon, onion,
and trimmings of mushrooms in a stewpan, add some cloves,
peppercorns, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and put the
Pigeons in ; pour in f pint of white wine. Wlieu the
liquid boils, move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put
the lid on, with some hot ashes on it, and stew the Pigeons
gently till cooked. Fry five chickens’ livers in butter;
pound them, dust some salt and pepper over them, anil
pass them through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the pounded
livers an equal quantity of scraped fat bacon, and the
same of peeled and chopped raw truffles. Oil an entree
paper case, and mask the bottom with the liver forcemeat ;
cut the strings off the Pigeons and put them on it, and
glaze them with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze.
Put a sheet of paper on a baking-sheet, cover the case
with paper, and stand it on it; place the baking-sheet on
a trivet at the entrance of the oven, thus warming the
Pigeons gently for fifteen minutes. Skim the fat off the
liquor in which the Pigeons were cooked, strain it, pour
in some brown sauce and Madeira, mixed in equal quan-
tities, and boil till reduced to half its original quantity.
Take the case out of the oven, put it on a hot dish, pour
a little of the sauce over, and serve with the remainder in
a sauceboat.
Pigeon Cutlets. — Having plucked and prepared the birds,
put them in a stewpan with sufficient clear stock to cover,
and stew them gently until tender. Wheu cooked, drain,
and cut them up into convenient pieces. Season some
grated breadcrumbs with moderate quantities of finely-
chopped thyme, parsley, and lemon-peel, and a small quantity
of cayenne pepper. Dip the pieces of Pigeons in beaten egg
and roll them in the seasoned breadcrumbs, giving them a
good coating. Put a large lump of lard or fat into a deep
frying-pan, place it on the fire, and when the blue smoke
rises lay in the pieces of Pigeons and fry them until nicely
browned. Put loz. of butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour
into a stewpan, stir them over the fire until mixed and
browned, then strain in the liquor in which the Pigeons
were boiled, season to taste, and stir it until boiling. Form
a pyramid of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, arrange the
pieces of Pigeons in an upright position all round them,
pour the sauce round the Pigeons, and serve.
Pigeon Cutlets served with French Beans or Asparagus
Peas. — Clean four Pigeons, split them in halves length-
wise, remove the wing-bones, and truss the leg-bones inside.
Put them in a saut(5-pan with a lump of butter, a small
quantity of pepper and salt, and fry them. When cooked,
put the halves of the Pigeons between two plates, and a
weight on the upper plate, and press them till cold. Roll
them in warmed butter and breadcrumbs, and broil them
till nicely browned over a clear fire. Arrange the cutlets
in a circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with cooked
French beans, and serve with a sauceboatful of half glaze.
The cutlets can be served with asparagus peas in the place
of French beans.
Pigeon Dumplings. — Truss four Pigeons as for boiling, put
some pickles inside them, and season with sweet herbs,
pepper and salt; rub some butter on the breasts, roll each
one in a thin piece of paste, tie them separately in cloths,
and boil them slowly for one-hour-and-a-lialf. When
cooked, take the birds out of the cloths, place them on a
3 81
Pigeons — continued.
hot dish, put some hard boiled eggs cut into halves round
them, pour a rich gravy over, and serve.
Pigeon Pie. — (1) Pick and draw some young Pigeons, wash
them, lay them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water,
put in a piece of onion and a piece of salt, put the
lid on, and boil them till tender. Take the Pigeons
out, drain them, and put in each 1 teaspoonful of butter,
a small quantity of salt, pepper, minced parsley, thyme,
and a hard-boiled egg. Lay them in a deep baking-dish
and strain their cooking liquor over them ; put in 1 teacup-
ful of cream, 1 table-spoonful of butter, 2 table- spoonfuls
of breadcrumbs, 1 table-spoonful of minced parsley and
thyme, and 1 pinch of salt. Cover the pie with a rich
crust, ornament it, stick four of the claws in the crust,
and bake it. Serve either hot or cold. If cold, set the
pie-dish in an under-dish with a napkin folded about it,
and garnish freely with sprays of parsley (see Fig. 235).
(2) Draw anil clean six young Pigeons, finely chop
their livers, hearts, gizzards, and lungs, and mix with them
twelve shallots, one clove of garlic, a little parsley and
thyme, 2oz. each of beef suet and lean veal, also chopped
fine. Sprinkle over them a dust of salt, pepper, and mixed
spices. Mix them together with a beaten egg and 1 table-
spoonful of brandy. Stuff the Pigeons with the forcemeat.
Put at the bottom of an earthenware pie-dish some thin
slices of bacon, sprinkle with chopped shallots and powdered
sweet herbs, then put in a layer of Pigeons, another
layer of bacon, more chopped shallots and sweet herbs, and
so on, till all the Pigeons are used. Put some knuckle of
veal, cut in small pieces, on the top, and pour in \ pint of
white wine. Cover the top with paste, brush it over with
beaten egg, and bake it for three hours in a moderate oven.
Serve either hot or cold.
(3) Boil and blanch three ox-palates ; truss three Pigeons
as for baking; cut four veal sweetbreads in halves, and
partially boil them ; blanch seventeen or eighteen cocks’
combs ; and blanch and beard 1 pint of oysters. Butter a
pie-disli, line it with a good crust, put in the Pigeons,
sweetbreads, the ox-palates cut into small pieces, the cocks’
combs, and oysters, also three artichoke bottoms and the
marrow from two bones. Season all well with mace,
grated nutmeg, and salt; put about 6oz. of butter, broken
in small pieces on the top, and moisten with a small
quantity of water. Bake the pie about an-hour-and-a-half,
and when cooked, strain off the butter at the top. Pour
in some nicely-flavoured gravy, and serve while hot.
(4) Pluck, singe, and draw eighteen young Pigeons,
split them into halves, and beat them flat. Dredge a
little flour, pepper, and salt over them on both sides. Put
4 lb. of butter in the baking-pan in which the pie is to
be made, and melt it ; then lay in the Pigeons, and bake
them till light brown. Pour into the £an about 2qts. of
broth or water, and continue baking. When the Pigeons
are nearly done, thicken the gravy, add 1 table-spoonful
of ketchup, salt, and pepper, cover them with a short
crust, and bake for twenty minutes longer. Serve either
hot or cold.
(5) Singe and draw some iplump young Pigeons, and
truss them with their legs inside. Put a few button
onions into a saucepan with a lump of butter, lay in the
Pigeons, dredge them with salt and pepper, and fry them
over a moderate fire till nicely browned. Then put in
I lb. of streaky bacon, and dredge in a little flour. In two
or three minutes’ time pour in sufficient broth and white
wine to reach the top of the birds, place the lid on the
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182
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigeons — continued.
saucepan, and boil the contents for fifteen minutes. Then
add a few raw mushrooms and some chopped cooked
salsify. When about half cooked, remove the Pigeons
from the fire. Butter a pie-disli, line it with puff
paste, put in the birds, and pour over them the cooking
liquor, &c. Cover the pie with a Hat of puff paste, trim
round the edges, moisten with water, press them to-
gether, and channel them all round. Roll out the trim-
mings of the paste and cut a few imitation leaves out of
it. Arrange the leaves on the top of the pie, damping
them first with a little water to make them adhere.
Make a hole in the centre, brash the pie over with a
paste-brash dipped in beaten egg, and bake it for three-
quarters-of-an-hour in a moderate oven. After the pie has
been in the oven for ten minutes, it should be covered
with a sheet of paper to prevent it taking too much
colour. When cooked, take the pie out of the oven, and
stand the dish on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper on another dish, and serve it.
(6) Clean and prepare three Pigeons, cut off the feet,
pour boiling water on them, remove the skin from the
legs and claws, as well as the nails, wipe them dry,
and put them on one side. Prepare a forcemeat with the
livers, parboiled mushrooms, cold cooked and chopped
meat of any kind, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, spices, and a
good supply of breadcrumbs, making the whole a solid
mass by working in one or two eggs. Well beat |lb. of
beef steak, dip it in flour, cut it into 2in. squares, place
them at the bottom of a pie-dish, and put the forcemeat on
top. Over this lay the Pigeons, intermixed with small
pieces of hard-boiled eggs, add a bay-leaf (if not objected
to), pom- over about 1 pint of gravy made from the trim-
mings of meat, put on a cover, decorate according to
fancy, and bake in a moderate oven. When done, glaze
the surface, insert the claws in the crust, and serve either
hot or cold.
(7) Butter the edges of a pie-dish and line it with puff
paste ; put at the bottom a few thin slices of veal cutlet,
and season them with salt, pepper, and small quantities
of cayenne and grated nutmeg. Place in as many young
Pigeons (that have been cleaned) as the dish will hold,
season them as before, and fill up the gapsi with yolks of
hard-boiled eggs ; put a few pieces of butter on the top,
and moisten with some rich gravy. Cover the whole with
a flat of puff paste, and make a slight incision in the top.
Brash the pie over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten
yolk of egg, and bake it in a moderate oven. Serve
either hot or cold.
(8) Prepare some highly-seasoned forcemeat, line a well-
buttered dish with it, and put in a layer of thin slices
of bacon. Draw some Pigeons and truss them, put them
on the bacon, and lay on them a sweetbread cut into
slices, five or six asparagus -tops, a few mushrooms, two
cocks’ combs, an ox-palate that has been boiled tender and
cut into small pieces, and the yolks of four hard-boiled
eggs ; put a layer of forcemeat on the top, cover all with
a flat of short crust, and bake it for an hour. When
cooked, turn the pie out on a hot dish, pour a rich gravy
round it, and serve.
(9) Draw three Pigeons, divide each into four parts, and
put them in a stewpan with |lb. of streaky bacon and
5oz. of bacon-fat, both chopped. Fry the Pigeons till
half done, season, and pour in \ pint of white wine.
When the moisture has evaporated somewhat, add the
Pigeons’ livers and two or three table -spoonfuls of cooked
fine herbs ; stir all over the fire for three minutes, then
take the pan off, and let the contents cool. Put a flat of
puff paste on a buttered baking-sheet, mask it with veal
quenelle forcemeat, leaving Din. of the edge clear all
round. Place the Pigeons on it in a dome shape, filling
in between them with the bacon and fine herbs, cover the
birds with forcemeat, put some thin slices of fat bacon on
the top, cover them with a flat of paste, damp the edges,
and press them together, still leaving lin. of clear edge
all round. Roll out a flat strip of the paste, and fix it up
right round the pie, resting on the under flat of paste,
and fasten it at the ends. Roll the trimmings of the
paste out and carve some imitation leaves with it, moisten
Pigeons — continued.
them, and place them in scrolls on the top of the dome ;
make a small hole in the centre, and place over it a
small round of paste. Brash the paste all over with a
paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, cover the tart over
with paper, and bake it one-hour-and-a-quarter. When
cooked, put the pie on a hot dish, make an incision
round the dome so as to open it, remove the bacon, and
put in its place some poached veal forcemeat quenelles,
pour in a little rich thickened gravy in which a few
fresh mushrooms have been stewed, put the top on again,
and serve with a sauceboatful of the sauce, mixed up
with mushrooms and quenelles.
Pigeon Pudding (American). — Prepare three young Pigeons
for cooking. Finely chop a shallot with 2 table-spoonfuls
of parsley and 1 table-spoonful of thyme ; then add the
pounded yolk of a hard-boiled egg, a finely minced
mushroom, and two or three slices of bacon, seasoning with
pepper, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg. Cut the
Pigeons lengthwise into halves, put an equal quantity of
the stuffing in each, roll them up in vine-leaves, put them
into a pudding basin lined with suet-paste, pour in suffi-
cient water to half cover, put a top of paste over the basin,
tie over with a cloth, and steam for fully two hours. Turn
out, make a small hole in the top, pour in some richly
flavoured stock, and serve.
Pigeons with Rice and Parmesan Cheese. — Pluck and
clean four or six nice-sized Pigeons, and divide each one
into quarters; put loz. of butter in a stewpan with 1
heaped table-spoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until
mixed and browned ; then mix in slowly two breakfast-
cupfuls of good stock. Put in the Pigeons with two or
three finely-chopped onions, salt and pepper to taste, and
keep them simmering at the side of the fire until tender.
When cooked, take the Pigeons out, and squeeze the juice of
one lemon in their cooking liquor. Wash and boil fib. of
rice in stock with 6oz. of butter, and when tender mix
with it j-lb. of grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning it with
salt and grated nutmeg. Make a wall with some of the
rice round a dish, put the Pigeons in the centre, strain
their gravy over them, and cover with the remainder of
the rice. Brash the top of the rice over with a paste-
brusli dipped in beaten egg, and strew some grated Par-
mesan cheese thickly over it. Stand the dish on a flat
baking-tin that has been covered with salt, and put it into
a slow oven. In about three-quarters-of-an-hour’s time, or
when nicely browned over the top, take the dish out of
the oven, and serve.
Pigeon Salad. — Roast some Pigeons and leave them till
cold. Take the fillets from the breasts of the birds, cut
them into thin slices, put them in a deep dish, season with
salt and pepper, and moisten them with salad oil and
vinegar in equal quantities. In about an hour’s time,
drain the pieces of meat, lay them hi a salad dish, put
some small pieces of celery in with them, cover until a
mayonnaise dressing, and serve them. Another way, is to
put the chopped meat in a salad bowl in which have been
arranged some lettuce-leaves. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs
and slices of beetroot, and pour a rtmoulade sauce over
them.
Pigeons an Soleil. — To the inventive genius of Ude we
owe this dish. Cut four cold cooked Pigeons in halves.
Put three or four carrots and onions into a stewpan, add
Fig. 236. Pigeons au Soleil.
a parsley root, one clove, one shallot, half a bay-leaf, two
or three sprigs of thyme, and a small lump of butter. Fry
them, but do not brown them; moisten with vinegar and
water mixed in equal quantities and dust in a little pepper
and salt ; let it simmer till the vegetables are quite done.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
183
Pigeons — continued.
Put tlie halves of Pigeons into a stewpan, strain the liquor
of the vegetables over them, and simmer for half-an-
liour. When cool, drain the Pigeons, dip them in
frying batter, and fry them in boiling fat till nicely
browned. Put the birds on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley (see Fig. 236), and serve with a sauceboatful of brown
sauce, or a sauce piquante.
Pigeon Soup (1). — Clean and truss three Pigeons, put them
into a stewpan with a few chives, 6oz. of raw ham cut in
dice, and some broth toppings. Toss them over a brisk fire
till nicely coloured, then pour in £ pint of Madeira, and
boil it till reduced to half its original quantity. Dredge over
the birds 2 table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, and stir it over the
fire for two or three minutes, then pour in 3qts. of broth.
When the broth is boiling, move tlie stewpan to the side
of the fire, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, and simmer
till the Pigeons are done. Take the Pigeons out, drain,
cut them into four pieces each, and put them in a
soup-tureen. Skim the fat off the liquor, put in the yolks
of three eggs, and stir it over the fire till thick. Strain
the soup through a fine hair sieve over the Pigeons in the
tureen, and serve.
(2) Singe and draw six plump young Pigeons, and roast
them for ten minutes ; cut the meat off, put the bones
into a mortar, sprinkle some flour over them, and pound
them. Put the pounded bones into a saucepan with 2qts.
of gravy, a bunch of tarragon and chervil, two or three
sprigs of parsley, three or four onions, a few carrots and
turnips cut in slices, one blade of mace, and a dust of
cayenne. When boiling, move tlie saucepan to the side of
the fire and let the contents simmer for two hours. Pass
the vegetables and soup through a fine hair sieve, return
it to the saucepan, put in the flesh of the Pigeons, and
let it simmer one hour longer. Ten minutes before dishing
it, stir into the soup a piece of butter that has been rolled
in flour. Turn the soup into a tureen, and serve- with a
plate of sippets of toast.
(3) Take four Pigeons, and cut up the oldest one into
pieces, with the livers, gizzards, necks and pinions of the
other three; put these pieces over the fire in Jgall. of
water, boil till all the good is got out of the pieces of
Pigeon, and then strain the broth. Put it back into the
stewpan to keep hot. Hash a small bunch of parsley and
add it to the broth, add also some chives or young onions,
and two large handfuls of spinach ; all these should be
chopped. Fry in 4oz. of boiling butter and 1 teacupful of
crumbs ; keep stirring them about till they are nicely
browned, then put them also into the soup. Trass the
other three Pigeons as if for stewing, season them with
salt and mixed spices, and boil them in the soup with
the herbs till they are tender. Taste the soup, and if it
requires more seasoning, add it. Serve very hot.
Pigeon Soup with Curry. — Truss three Pigeons, put them
into a saucepan with 6oz. of raw ham (cut in dice), the
giblets of the Pigeons, two chives, and a piece of butter,
and fry them over a brisk fire till browned ; then stir in
1 Jjoz. of curry powder, mixed with twice its bulk of flour ;
pour in gradually 3qts. of broth, and continue stirring till
the liquid boils. Stand the saucepan at the side of the
fire, and let the contents simmer till the Pigeons are tender.
When cooked, take the Pigeons out, divide each into four
or five pieces, and put them in a soup-tureen. Skim the
cooking liquor, strain and thicken it with the beaten yolks
of three eggs, pour it over the birds, and serve.
Potted Pigeons. — (1) Boil the livers and gizzards of some
Pigeons until tender, then drain and finely chop them, and
make them into a forcemeat with grated ham, breadcrumbs,
the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and a seasoning of herbs.
Stuff the Pigeons with the forcemeat, put them into a
stewpan with an onion, h pint of white wine, and the
liquor in which the gizzards were stewed, also loz. of butter
that has been kneaded with 1 table-spoonful of flour, and
stew them gently until tender. When cooked, pack the
Pigeons in suitable pots ; strain their cooking liquor, return
it to the saucepan, and boil quickly for a few minutes ;
then pour a little of it over the birds to level up, and
when cold, cover the contents with warmed clarified butter.
Pigeons — continued.
(2) Draw and wash twelve Pigeons, stand them upside-
down in a deep earthenware jar, and pour over them 1 pint of
vinegar. Cut three large onions into four pieces each, and
place one piece on each Pigeon. Put a plate over the jar
and let it stand all night. On the following morning
take tlie Pigeons out, drain them, and put them in a
deep stewpan with six slices of fat pork ; fry them till
brown, then take them out, and fry in the fat six onions
finely sliced. Trass the Pigeons and dredge them well
with salt, pepper, and flour ; place them in the stewpan with
the onions and pork ; put the lid on, and cook them slowly
for forty-five minutes, stirring occasionally; then pour in
2qts. of boiling water, and simmer gently for two hours.
Mix a heaped teacupful of flour in £ pint of cold water,
then stir it in with the Pigeons, adding more seasoning if
required. Cook half-an-hour longer. Put the Pigeons on
a hot dish with a border of potatoes, pour the gravy over,
and serve.
(3) Take some perfectly fresh Pigeons, clean them
thoroughly, season with pepper and salt, and lay them
close together in a small deep pan. The smaller the
pan, and the closer the birds are packed in, the less butter
will be required. When all the birds are in the pan,
cover them with butter, tie over the pan a piece of very
thick paper, unless it has a well-fitting lid, and bake them.
Let them get quite cold, then put them into pots that
"will hold two or three birds, and pour over them the
butter they were baked in, with more added to it. It is
an improvement to bone them, and stuff with force-
meat made with veal and bacon before baking.
Boasted Pigeons. — It is well to stuff Pigeons for roasting
with a well-seasoned veal forcemeat. Their flavour is much
improved by this means, and parsley fried in butter can
then be served with them. The stuffing should con-
sist of minced raw veal, fat bacon, breadcrumbs soaked in
milk, and all mixed together and well seasoned. In
America it is usual to serve roasted Pigeons with red-
currant jelly or stewed apples without sugar ; dressed
celery or other salad ; mashed turnips or squash. All are
considered suitable for these birds.
(1) Pluck, clean, and trass the Pigeons, and put them into a
roasting-pan. Cut as many slices of bread as there are
birds, toast and butter them, sprinkle over them minced
mushrooms and anchovies in equal quantities, dust over
with pepper, place them under the Pigeons, and roast
them until done. Serve on a hot dish with the toasts
under them.
(2) Singe and draw four Pigeons; finely mince their
livers with an equal quantity of beef- suet, hard-boiled
eggs, and breadcrumbs. Season with a bunch of sweet
herbs chopped fine, salt, pepper, and ground mace to taste ;
bind all together with the beaten yolk of an egg. Cut
the skin of the Pigeons between the legs and the bodies;
carefully raise the skin from the flesh with the fingers,
taking care not to break it, then put in the stuffing, and
truss tlie legs close to keep it in. Fix the birds on the
spit, roast them in front of a clear fire, and baste them
continually with butter. When cooked, take the birds up
and put them on a hot dish. Mix with the gravy that
has ran from them 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little
grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, thicken it with the well-
beaten yolk of an egg, and boil it up; then pour it over
the Pigeons, and serve hot.
(3) Truss three Pigeons as for roasting, and tie a slice
of fat bacon over the breast of each ( see Barging). Fix
them on a spit, and roast them in front of a clear fire for
a-quarter-of-an-hour. When cooked, take the Pigeons off
the spit, and remove the string or skewers, but leave the
bacon on the breasts; put them on a hot dish, garnish
round with watercress, pour over a rich gravy, and serve.
Boasted Pigeons Stuffed with Chestnuts. — Singe and
draw two Pigeons, and truss them as for roasting. Boil
h pint of chestnuts, and when tender, peel, chop, and
pound them in a mortar with the same quantity of finely -
chopped bacon. Stuff the Pigeons with the chestnut
mixture, put a vine leaf on each breast, and bind them
round with a thin slice of fat bacon ; fix them on the
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , <&’c., referred to, see under their special heads.
184
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pigeons — continued.
spit, and roast them in front of a clear fire for twenty
minutes or half-an-hour. Finely chop the livers, and mix
with them a sprig of chopped parsley, 1 table-spoonful
each of sauce and gravy, a lump of butter, a piece of
grated lemon-peel, and dust over a small quantity of
grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over
the fire for a few minutes. Put the birds on a hot dish,
and serve them with the sauce.
Salmis of Pigeons. — Cut some cold cooked Pigeons into
nice pieces, season them on both sides with salt and pepper,
and flour them well ; put them in a stewpan with a small
quantity of cold water, loz. of butter, and a few drops of
mushroom ketchup, and boil them gently at the edge of
the fire for a few minutes. When cooked, turn the salmis
on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or
croft to ns of fried bread, and serve.
Stewed. Pigeons.— (1) Pluck and prepare the birds; for two
Pigeons, put in a stewpan ‘2oz. of butter, |lb. of thinly-
sliced lean ham, a few button mushrooms, a moderate
quantity of powdered sweet herbs, and the juice of half
a lemon. Put the birds in the stewpan, moisten them to
height with clear gravy, and keep them simmering gently
for half-an-hour or until tender. When cooked, put the
Pigeons on a hot dish, and arrange the mushrooms round
them. Mix 1 wineglassful of port wine with the gravy,
strain it over the birds, and serve.
(2) Clean four Pigeons, and truss them with their legs
inwards. Put them in a stewpan, lay some thin slices of
fat bacon over them, pour in some chicken broth to the
height of the Pigeons, and place a sheet of buttered paper
on the top. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let the
contents simmer by the side of the fire until the Pigeons
are done. Cut a block of crumb of bread, 3in. high, l-jin.
square at the top, and widening out to 2^in. square at the
base. Fiy it in boiling fat till nicely browned. Drain
the piece of bread, and fix it in the middle of a dish with
a paste made of white of egg and flour. Cook some
cauliflowers, carrots, turnips, and French beans. Drain the
Pigeons, rest them against the sides of the bread, and
pile the vegetables tastefully up between them. Flollow
out the bottom of an artichoke, shaping it like a bowl,
put it on top of the bread, and fill it with French beans.
Pour a little bechamel sauce over the Pigeons, and serve
with a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
(3) Clean two house Pigeons, cut off their necks, and truss
them -with their legs inwards ; wash the livers and put
them back in the body of the birds. Blanch |lb. of
streaky bacon in boiling water, first removing the rind,
cut it into squares, and fry it in a stewpan with a little
butter till lightly browned, then take it out. Place the
Pigeons in the same stewpan with the fat, and brown
them. Take them out and lay them on a plate with the
bacon. Put 2 table- spoonfuls of flour in the same stewpan,
and mix it with the fat over the fire till brown ; then
pour in 1 pint of broth and the liquor in which lqt. of
turned mushrooms have been boiled. Sprinkle in a small
quantity of salt and pepper, and stir it over the fire till
boiling. Strain the liquor through a pointed strainer into
another stewpan ; then put in the Pigeons and bacon,
twenty fried button onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Put the lid on the stewpan and let the contents cook
gently for half an-hour; then add the mushrooms, and
simmer for five minutes longer. Take the birds out when
done, remove the strings, put them on a hot dish, skim
the gravy, and take the sweet herbs out. Put the bacon,
onions, and mushrooms round the Pigeons, strain the gravy
over, and serve.
(4) Truss a pair of plump young Pigeons, and soak them
for an hour in 1 pint of Bordeaux wine. Chop an onion
and some streaky bacon, then mix with it 4 breakfast-
cupful of breadcrumbs and a small quantity of sage ; bind
the mixture together with a beaten egg, stuff the birds with it,
and fasten them up securely. Put them in a saucepan with
h pint of gravy and the wine in which they soaked. Let
them simmer gently for an hour. Take the Pigeons out
of the gravy, drain them, brush them over with beaten
egg, sprinkle fine raspings over them, and put them in a
Pigeons — continued.
very hot oven, basting them with butter. Skim the fat
off the gravy, and boil it sharply till reduced to \ pint.
Put the Pigeons on a hot dish, pom the gravy round
them, and serve.
Stewed Pigeons served with Green Peas. — Truss two
Pigeons with their legs inwards, cutting oil' the necks, and
washing the livers and returning them again to the insides
of the birds. Blanch |lb. of streaky bacon, cut it into
squares, removing all rind, and fry it in a stewpan with
loz. of butter. When lightly browned, take the bacon out,
put the Pigeons in, and fry them brown ; then take them
out and put them on one side with the bacon. Stir 2
table-spoonfuls of flour in the stewpan with the fat, and
when cooked pour in 1 h pints of broth. When boiling,
strain it through a conical strainer into another stewpan;
put in the Pigeons and bacon, lqt. of green peas, 1 bunch
of sweet herbs, and pepper and salt to taste. Cook the
Pigeons slowly for half-an-hour, then take them out,
remove the strings, and put them on a hot dish. Take
the bunch of herbs out, skim the fat off the peas,
put them and the bacon round the birds, and serve with
a sauceboatful of the strained gravy.
Stewed Pigeons and Tinned Tomatoes. — Draw and wash
a couple of Pigeons, cut off their heads, necks, and the
toes at the first joint, and truss them. Cut 4oz. of bacon
into small square pieces, and fry them until beginning to
take colour ; then put in the Pigeons and turn them
occasionally until browned all over. Add 1 pint of tinned
tomatoes and sufficient stock to cover, season to taste
with salt and pepper, place the stewpan at the side of
the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for one-hour-
and-a-half. Put loz. of butter into a stewpan with 1
table-spoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until mixed.
Pass the tomatoes and stock through a coarse wire sieve
into the flour and butter, and stir over the fire until
boiling, then put in 4 table-spoonfuls of cream. Lay the
Pigeons on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and
serve.
Stewed Wood-Pigeons. — Pluck, singe, and draw three
wild Pigeons, split them lengthwise into halves, then cut
them across into quarters. Put the pieces of Pigeon into
a saucepan, pour in 1^ pints of stock, and place it over
the fire until boiling. Put in with the Pigeons one
chopped onion, a small piece of mace, eight peppercorns,
four cloves, and f, teaspoonful of salt. Put the lid on the
saucepan, and keep the contents simmering at the side of
the fire. Put table-spoonfuls of flour into a basin and
mix it smoothly with a small quantity of cold water ; then
mix with it 1 scant table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup
and a few drops of caramel. When the Pigeons are
tender, pour in the flour mixture, place the saucepan over
the fire, and stir and boil the contents for ten minutes.
At the end of that time, put the Pigeons on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over them, and serve.
Stuffed Pigeons (Faecis).— Pluck, draw, and clean the
required quantity of Pigeons, and make an incision in the
centre of the skin of each breast without cutting the
flesh. Put the crumb of a stale roll in as much milk as it
will absorb, and when soft squeeze it well, and mix with
it two or three finely-chopped button mushrooms, a moderate
quantity each of chopped shallot and parsley, salt and
pepper to taste, and toz. of butter. When these ingre-
dients are well mixed, lift the skin on each side of the
incisions made in the breast of the bird, and stuff them
with it. Sew up each opening, and put a small onion in
each bird. Put them in a stewpan with a few trimmings
of ham or lean bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, and salt
to taste. Moisten them to height with stock, and stew
them gently at the edge of the fire. When the Pigeons
are cooked, strain off some of their liquor into a smaller
stewpan, thicken it with a little flour and butter that
have been rolled together, and mix 1 wineglassful of white
wine with it. Stir it over the fire until boiling, then
move it to the side. Toast some slices of bread, lay them
on a hot dish, and place the Pigeons on them ; pom- a
small quantity of the gravy round, and serve with the
remainder in a sauceboat.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
185
Pigeons — continued.
Timbale of Pigeons with Olives. — Peel and stone six-
dozen salted olives, immerse them in cold water, drain,
stuff them with raw quenelle forcemeat, and roll them
to their original shape. Plunge them into boiling water
until the forcemeat is firm. Line a dome-shaped timbale-
mould with buttered paper, and stand it on ice. Drain
the olives, and arrange them in rows on the bottom and
against the sides of the mould, supporting them inside
with a layer of forcemeat. Draw and singe three Pigeons,
divide each into four pieces, put them in a stevpan with
a piece of butter, and fry them. Add Alb. of streaky
bacon cut in squares, and season with salt and
pepper. When nicely browned, pour in \ pint of
white wine and boil it. When it has evaporated
somewhat, add a few table-spoonfuls of brown sauce,
and finish braising over a very slow fire. Blanch
and cut in quarters some chicken’s livers, and put
them in with the Pigeons. Take the stewpan off
the fire, and let the contents cool. Fill the mould
with the stew of Pigeons, put a layer of forcemeat
on the top, and cover it with a sheet of buttered
paper. Stand the timbale in the bain-marie, and
poach it. Turn it on to a dish (see Fig. 237), pour a little
brown sauce round it, and serve with a sauceboatful of
the same.
Timbale of Pigeons and Truffles. — Pluck, singe, and
clean eight Pigeons, truss them, chop them into halves,
put them into a saute -pan with butter and bacon-fat,
adding 1 table-spoonful of parsley, 2 table-spoonfuls of
mushrooms, and 4 table-spoonfuls of truffles, all finely
chopped. Season to taste with grated nutmeg, salt and
pepper, and simmer gently over a slow fire for fifteen
minutes or so. Let them cool in the liquor, and remove
as many bones as possible. Fill a mould with paste, mask
the bottom and sides with game forcemeat, put in the
halves of Pigeons with a few slices of truffles intermixed,
pour over the flutter from the frying-pan, cover over with
a little more of the paste, set the mould in a moderate
oven, and bake for an-hour-and-a-half. Turn it out when
done, and serve.
PIGEON PEAS.— These are the seeds of a plant
( Cajanus indicus) much cultivated in the East and West
Indies. Although not much known in this country, they
form a favourite dish amongst our countrymen in India,
who, in common with the natives, esteem their nutritious
qualities. The following is the usual mode of preparing
them : -
Pigeon Peas and Rice. — Put Alb. each of Pigeon Peas and
well-washed rice into a saucepan with plenty of water,
and boil them. When half cooked, put in with them
some small pieces of salt pork, salt beef, and salt fish,
two or three chopped onions, and two fresh peppers, and
finish cooking gently. Add more water if necessary, but
it must not be too liquid. When quite cooked, turn the
mixture into a buttered mould, pressing it firmly in to
Pigeon Peas — continued.
give it the shape, then turn it out on to a hot dish, and
serve as quickly as possible.
PIGNOLO. — An Italian wine of Nerve, in the Ligurian
Provinces; it is quite unknown in this country.
PIKE (Fr. Brochet; Ger. Hecht; Ital. Luccio; Sp-
Lucio). — This fish is commonly known as jack, and some-
times as luce, and the young are called pickerel. It
is a very voracious fresli-water fish, found in the gentle-
flowing rivers and ponds of Europe and America. The
name Pike is probably derived from a Celtic word re-
ferring to the shape of its mouth. The British Pike ( Esox
Indus) (see Fig. 238) is not much esteemed by epicures,
although it is asserted by some that the flesh has a
very good flavour, if properly cooked. They are in season
during the winter months up to the beginning of March,
their spawning season ; after which they are quite out
of favour for some time. Izaak Walton in his “ Compleat
Angler ” gives the following receipt for cooking the Pike :
First open your Pike at the gills, and, if need be, cut
also a little slit towards the belly. Out of these take his
guts, and keep his liver, which you are to shred very
small with thyme, sweet marjoram, and a little winter
savory ; to these put some pickled oysters and some
anchovies, two or three, both these last whole, for the
anchovies will melt, and the oysters should not ; to these
you must add also lib. of sweet butter, if the Pike be
more than a yard long, or if he be less, then less butter
will suffice, which you are to mix with the herbs that
are shred, and let them all be well salted. These being thus
mixed, with a blade or two of mace, must be put into the
Pike’s belly, and then his belly so sewed up as to keep
all the butter in his belly if it be possible; if not, then
as much as you possibly can. But take not off the scales.
Then you are to thrust the spit through his mouth, out
at his tail. And then take four or five or six split
sticks, or very thin laths, and a convenient quantity of
tape or filleting; these laths are to be tied round about
the Pike’s body from his head to his tail, and the tape
tied somewhat thick, to prevent his breaking or falling off
from the spit. Let him be roasted very leisurely, and
often basted with claret wine, and anchovies and butter
mixed together, and also with the moisture that falls from
him into the pan. When you have roasted him sufficiently,
you are to hold under him, when you unwind or cut the
tape that ties him, such a dish as you propose to eat him
out of and let him fall into it with the same that is
roasted in his belly, and by this means the Pike will be
kept unbroken and complete. Then to the sauce which
was within, and also that sauce in the pan, you are to
add a small quantity of the best butter, and to squeeze
the juice of three or four oranges. Lastly, you. may either
put it into the Pike, with the oysters, two cloves of
garlic, and take it whole out when the Pike is cut off
the spit; or, to give the sauce a liogoo (liaut gout) let the
dish into which you let the Pike fall be rubbed with it;
the using or not using of this garlic is left to your discre-
tion. This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers
or very honest men; and I trust you will prove both, and
therefore I have trusted you with this secret.
Baked Pickerel with Green Peas. — Scald the fish, split it
lengthwise down the back, take out the backbone, and
Fig. 238. Pike.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Sic., referred to, see under their special heads.
186
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pike — continued.
cut off the head, tail, and fins. Lay the fish, the skin
side upwards, in a deep baking-pan, with a little salt and
1 teacupful of water. Bake the fish for about ten minutes
and baste it once with the water in the pan, then take
out the pan and remove the skin from the fish. Drain
the water out of the pan, roll the fish in beaten egg and
breadcrumbs, put it in the pan with a lump of butter,
and bake it for twenty minutes, or till well browned,
basting continually with the butter. Put the fish when
cooked on a hot dish, and serve with a border of green
peas.
Baked Pike. — (1) Scale and clean a Pike, cut it into slices,
and place it in a baking-dish; put in some slices of onion,
two bay -leaves, a piece of butter, some pepper and salt,
and i pint of sour cream. Bake it for twenty-five minutes
in a brisk oven, and baste it often with the cream. Strew
some breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over the
fish, and brown them under a salamander. Put the slices
of fish on a hot dish ; pour some broth in the baking dish,
add some lemon-juice, salt, and pepper, stir it for a
minute or two on the fire, then pour it over the fish, and
serve.
(2) These fish can be baked whole thus : Scale and
clean the Pike, stuff the belly with veal stuffing, sew up
the slit with a needle and thread, and fasten the tail to
the head, to form a circle. Put the fish in a baking-dish,
with a little flour and water, and put a piece of butter on
its back. Baste it occasionally, and when nearly cooked
add \ table-spoonful of capers and their vinegar, also three
or four olives, and finish cooking. Strain the gravy off
the fish into a saucepan, and mix with it the required
quantity of stock, a dust of pepper, salt, and flour. Put
the Pike on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and
serve.
(3) Well wash and clean a Pike, taking care to remove
all the film in the belly, put it into a bowl of salted
water and vinegar, and let it soak for an hour. Prepare
a stuffing udth |lb. of chopped beef-suet, breadcrumbs,
lemon-peel, parsley, thyme, marjoram, salt and pepper, and
eggs to moisten. Dry the Pike and stuff it, fasten it with
skewers, put it into a deep dish with a little stock, a few
sweet herbs and cloves, two or three bay-leaves, and a
little lemon-rind, and bake for an hour, basting frequently.
Take out the fish, put it on a hot dish, brush it over
with egg, dust it over with breadcrumbs, return it to the
oven for a few minutes, strain the liquor into another
saucepan, add 1 wineglassful of sweet red wine, warm it
up without boiling, pour it round the dish, and serve with
mussels cooked in white sauce in a sauceboat.
(4) Prepare a stuffing with 2oz. of finely-chopped beef-
suet, 2oz. of sifted breadcrumbs, an anchovy, and some
savoury herbs chopped very fine, half-a-dozen oysters chopped
small, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and powdered mace, b
pint of cream, and the beaten yolks of four eggs; put all
together in a small saucepan over the fire and stir till it
thickens, then turn it out on a plate. Scale the Pike
and open it close to the throat, clean and dry it well, put
the stuffing in, and sew it up. Lay it in a baking-tin,
stick bits of butter over, put it in the oven, and bake.
Serve with a sauce of butter, gravy, and anchovy.
Boiled Pike. — (1) Scale, empty, and wash the fish. Chop
twelve oysters, and mix with them the crumb of a French
roll, a little finely-chopped lemon-peel, a piece of butter,
the well -beaten yolks of two eggs, and season to taste
with salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. When well mixed,
stuff the fish with this forcemeat, and truss it with its
tail in its mouth. Put the fish in a fish-kettle with boil-
ing water, 2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 1 table-spoon-
ful of salt. Boil it from lialf-an-hour to one hour, accord-
to the size of the fish. When cooked, put the fish on a
hot dish, garnish with pickled barberries, and serve with
a sauceboatful of anchovy sauce.
(2) Draw the fish, removing the gills and fins, wash
them well in plenty of salted water, and next -wipe them
dry on a clean cloth. Put them into a fish-kettle with a
large lump of salt, the peel of a lemon, a large nutmeg
grated, a slice of ginger, a blade of mace, a few cloves
and peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Fike — continued.
onions, b pint of white wine, and sufficient boiling water
to cover the fish. Let them simmer gently until tender.
When cooked, lay the fish on a hot dish, putting the
herbs and spices on the top. Mix f b breakfast-cupfuls of
its cooking-liquor with 1 breakfast-cupful of butter sauce,
and stir in two smoothly-pounded anchovies and a small
quantity of powdered ginger. When boiling, pour the
sauce over the fish, garnish with slices of lemon (see Fig.
239), and serve while very hot.
(3) Potsdam. — Clean a Pike and cut it into pieces ; put
them in a stewpan with a bunch of parsley and sweet
herbs, cover with white wine, season with salt and pepper,
and boil them ’slowly over a clear fire. When cooked,
drain and skin the pieces of Pike, put the best in a stew-
pan, and pass the cooking-stock through a sieve. Put two
chopped onions in a stewpan with a piece of butter and
fry them, then stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of flour and the
cooking-stock of the fish; continue stirring the sauce over
the fire till thick, then move it to the side, skim oft' the
fat, and pour it over the fish. Let it simmer for fifteen
minutes, then add \ teacupful of whole capers, the same
quantity of gherkins, cut in small squares, 1 pinch each of
grated horseradish and chopped parsley, and two peeled
lemons cut in slices. Add a piece of butter to the sauce
and 2 table-spoonfuls of anchovy essence. Put the fish on
a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Boiled Pike a la Dubois.— Get a gold-coated Pike, weigh-
ing 61b. or 71b., scale and draw it, truss the head, and
wash it well. Make incisions across the back, as deep as
the spine-bone, stand the fish on its belly in the fish-
kettle, cover with white wine and water mixed in equal
quantities, put in a few minced vegetables, a bunch of
sweet herbs and parsley, four or five peppercorns, and a
little salt. When boiling, move the fish-kettle to the side
of the fire, and let the contents simmer for one hour.
Prepare a good sauce with 1 pint of fish-stock strained
and cooled, thicken it with flour and butter kneaded
together, add 2 table-spoonfuls of soy and 5 table-spoon-
fuls of butter, broken into small pieces. Drain the fish,
lay it on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on
a hot dish, garnish with nice little sprigs of fresh parsley,
and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Boiled Pike with Caper Sauce.— A Pike will improve by
being kept for two days. Clean it, cut off the fins,
and bind its head round with string. Put the fish in a
fish kettle, cover with court bouillon, and let it simmer
for forty minutes ; then leave it to soak in the couit
bouillon as long as possible; twenty-four hours is not too
long and will greatly improve it. Before warming the
Pike again, take it and the liquor out, clean the kettle,
then put it back again and warm it for twenty minutes.
Place the fish on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper
on a hot dish, garnish round with fresh parsley, and
serve with a sauceboatful of caper sauce.
Boiled Pike served with Quenelles. — Clean and wrap a
Pike in buttered paper, and boil it in mirepoix and white
wine mixed in equal quantities. Prepare some quenelles
with Pike forcemeat and crayfish butter, and poach them.
When cooked, glaze the Pike, lay it on a folded napkin
or ornamental dish-paper, place the quenelles round, and
serve with a sauceboatful of financiere sauce for fish.
<
Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
187
Pike — continued.
Boudins of Pike. — (1) Prepare a Pike quenelle forcemeat and
mix with it 4 table-spoonfuls of cooked and chopped fine
herbs. Divide the forcemeat into small equal portions, and
roll them out on a floured table to pieces three times the
thickness of macaroni. Twist the ends of each of these
pieces in a spiral and in an opposite direction, imitating
the letter S. Put a wooden skewer through each boudin,
range them side by side in a buttered saute -pan, and
poach them in boiling salted water. Drain the boudins,
leave them till cool, then dip them in beaten eggs and
breadcrumbs, and fry till lightly browned in boiling fat.
When done, drain, and arrange the boudins on a folded
napkin or ornamental disli-paper on a hot dish, garnish
round with parsley, and serve.
(2) Prepare a Pike forcemeat, also a salpipon made of mush-
rooms, carp’s roes, and truffles, mixed in stiffly reduced
German sauce. Butter some strips of paper, 4in. long and
2Jain. wide, and put a piece of forcemeat, 3Jin. by 1 Jin. thick
on each strip, with the handle of a spoon. Press part of
the forcemeat in the centre of each boudin, to form a
hollow fin. deep and fin. in diameter, fill the cavity with
some of the salpipon, then cover it with some forcemeat, put
the boudins in a saute -pan with a little stock, and let them
simmer for a quarter-of-an-hour. Arrange the boudins in
a circle on a hot dish, pour some German sauce over, and
serve.
Broiled Fillets of Pike. — Pick the fillets of three or four
Pike off the bones and cut each into halves lengthwdse,
rub them over with finely-minced shallots and salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and broil them over a clear fire.
Beat 4oz. of butter together with the juice of a lemon and
a small quantity of cayenno pepper. When cooked, put
the fillets on a hot dish, coat them with the prepared
butter, and serve.
Broiled Fillets of Pike d la Tide. — Cut the fillets off a
Pike, skin them and shape like cutlets, dust with a
little salt and pepper, brush them over with beaten
yolks of eggs, strew with breadcrumbs, brush over with
warmed butter, and breadcrumb them again. Broil the
fillets over a clear but slow fire. Put 2 table-spoonfuls of
tarragon vinegar in a saucepan and boil it until reduced
to half, then add 3 table-spoonfuls of brown sauce ;
thicken it with the yolk of an egg, stir in 2 table-spoon-
fuls of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon, season
with salt and pepper, and continue stirring till the sauce
is quite smooth. Put the fillets on a folded napkin or
ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve with the
sauce in a sauceboat.
Carbonade of Pike. — (1) Skin and bone a Pike, cut it into
nice slices, dip them in warmed butter, and strew over
some chopped sweet herbs and finely-grated breadcrumbs.
Baste them with 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of ibeaten egg,
lay them on a baking-dish, and bake until nicely browned.
When cooked, lay them carefully on a hot dish ; pour some
clear gravy in the baking-dish, stir it well over the fire,
pour over the fish, garnish with cut lemons, and serve.
(2) Clean the Pike, remove the skin and bones, and cut
it into moderately thick slices. Dip the slices in warmed
butter and then in fine herbs, giving them a good coating.
Leave the slices of fish for lialf-an-hour, then coat them
with finely grated breadcrumbs, having previously moistened
them with beaten egg. Lay the slices on a baking-dish,
put them in a brisk oven, and bake till lightly browned.
When cooked, lay the slices of fish on a hot dish. Pour
\ pint of broth in the baking-dish, with a squeeze of lemon-
juice, stir it well over the fire until boiling, then pour it
over the fish, and serve.
Fillets of Pike a la Maitre d’Hotel. — Put a lump of
butter in a frying-pan and melt it ; divide the fillets of
Pike into halves, put them skin side downwards into
the warmed butter, sprinkle some chopped shallots over
them, season with salt and pepper, and fry over a slow fire
for ten minutes, turning them when done on one side. The
fillets should not be browned. Make f pint of melted
butter, mix with it Jib. of maitre-d’hotel butter, and stir
till it has quite dissolved. When cooked, arrange the fish
on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Pike — continued.
Fillets of Pike a la Royale.— Fillet a large Pike, cut the
thick part of each fillet slantingly into slices, beat them
lightly, and trim to an oval shape of an equal size. Put
one half of the fillets into a buttered saute -pan, spread the
remaining ones with a thin layer of quenelle forcemeat,
sprinkle them over with chopped truffle, and put them in
a saute -pan with some clarified butter. Prepare some
paste for a crust to dish the fillets on with some flour,
water, and butter; it should be kept rather consistent.
Leave the paste till somewhat dry, then put it on a floured
table, and work with the hand, adding more flour, till
very firm ; let the paste rest for twenty-five minutes, giving
it seven turns like puff paste. When very smooth, form
the paste into a crust, brush it over with beaten egg, and
dry in the hot closet ; it will not require baking. Put the
crust on a dish and fix a bread support in the centre, the
top of which should be finished with a garnished attelette
skewrer. Cook all the fillets, and when nicely done, arrange
them in a circle on the crust. Fill the space between the
fillets and the column of bread with mushrooms that have
been glazed over with Normandy sauce, and serve.
Fricasseed Pike. — Draw and wash two middling-sized Pike,
cut off the fins, divide the Pike into pieces, and wipe
them. Put a finely-chopped onion in a stewpan with a
piece of butter and fry it for two minutes ; then put in
the pieces of Pike, season with salt and pepper, and fry
them. When the flesh is firm, sprinkle over 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, and add gradually some water and white
wine, mixed in equal quantities, a bunch of sweet herbs
and parsley, five or six peppercorns and cloves, and some
trimmings of fresh mushrooms; boil the pieces of Pike
quickly, so as to reduce the liquor one-third. When cooked,
take the pieces of Pike out, drain, and put them on
a hot dish. Strain the sauce, and mix -with it a few fresh
cooked morels, and their liquor freed of all fat. Boil the
sauce, then move it to the side of the fire, and stir in the
yolks of two or three beaten eggs and a little chopped
parsley. When thickened, pour the sauce over the fish,
Fig. 240. Fricasseed Pike.
garnish with the morels and a few stuffed crayfish body-
shells, and sprinkle over some capers; roll some fillets of
anchovies into rings, put them round the dish (see Fig. 240),
and serve.
Fried Fillets of Pike. — Cut the fillets carefully off a Pike,
wash and dry them well, then dip them in beaten egg and
breadcrumbs, and fry them in plenty of oil. When nicely
brow'ned, drain the fillets, arrange them in a circle on a
hot dish, fill the centre with a matelote sauce, and serve.
Fried Fillets of Fike served with Bice. — Cut the fillets
off a Pike, remove the skin, dust some pepper and salt
over them, and fry in butter, keeping them white and
firm ; turn wdien done on one side and finish the other.
Wash some rice and blanch it in boiling water, drain,
put it in a stewpan witli some stock, and boil gently till
well cooked ; then mix with it a little thick cream and
3 or 4 table-spoonfuls of veloutd sauce, keeping it tldck
and firm. Dish the rice in a dome shape in the centre
of a hot dish, arrange the fillets on it, mask them with
a little maitre-d’hotel sauce, and serve with a sauce-
boatful of the same.
Fried Fike. — Select small Pike, draw and wash them ; put
a lump of butter in a stewpan, and when blue smoke
rises put in the fish, seeing that they are perfectly dry,
and fry until nicely browned and crisp. Afterwards drain
the butter off them, and put in with them two or three
anchovies, a slice of ginger, a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, salt to taste, and a sufficient quantity of claret
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Ac., referred to, see under their special heads.
188
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fike — continued.
to cover them. Boil the fish until tender, when the liquor
should he reduced to half its original quantity ; then put
in the juice of an orange and a small lump of butter.
Lay the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them,
garnish with slices of oranges, and serve.
Pickled. Pike. — Scale and empty a Pike, wash it thoroughly,
bind its head up, put it in a fish-kettle, and cover with a
fish stock made with red wine ; add two or three bay-
leaves, and boil it gently till cooked. Leave the Pike in
the sauce till the following day. When ready to serve,
drain the fish, put it on a folded napkin or ornamental
dish -paper, garnish with fresh parsley, and serve with oil
and vinegar.
Fike a la Chambord. — (1) Thoroughly clean a large Pike,
lard it in a square on one side with bacon, and put it in
a fisli-kettle, the larded side upwards. Cut four onions,
one carrot, and one turnip into slices, and put them in a
saucepan with four bay-leaves, six cloves, a bunch of
parsley and sweet herbs, two blades of mace, and Jib.
each of butter and lean ham, and fry them over a slow fire
for twenty minutes. Pour in with the vegetables 1 wine-
glassful of vinegar, \ pint of Madeira, and 6qts of broth;
boil them for one hour, then pass all through a sieve over
the fish, and stew gently for one hour or more, according
to the size of the fish. Care should be taken that the
liquor does not come over the larded part, but it should
be basted occasionally with it. Hot coals should be kept
on the lid of the stewpan. When cooked, drain the fish
and glaze it. Put 1 pint of the cooking liquor in a sauce-
pan, with 2 wineglassfuls of Madeira wine, first skimming
off all the fat. Boil it till reduced to half its original
quantity, then mix with it 2qts. of brown sauce, and" stir
over the fire till it coats the spoon. Put in the sauce one
carp’s or mackerel’s roe, cut in large pieces but not broken
at all, fifteen cocks’ combs, fifteen heads of white mushrooms,
twelve large whiting forcemeat quenelles, 1 table-spoonful
of essence of anchovies, and J table-spoonful of sugar.
Put the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce round it,
arranging the quenelles, &c. tastefully, and serve while
very hot.
(2) This handsome dish is attributed to Jules Gouffe.
Skin and clean a Pike, removing the intestines through
the gills, and bind the head round with string. Wrap
the fish in buttered paper, put it in a stewpan, and cover
with mirepoix and French white wine, mixed in equal
quantities. Boil the Pike, and when done, drain, stud it
across with rows of square pieces of truffles and with a
little Pike forcemeat. Stick a fillet of sole between each
row ; put the Pike in the oven to cook the fillets. Prepare
a ragout of Pike forcemeat quenelles, truffles, and mush-
rooms. Strain the cooking liquor of the fish, boil it till
slightly reduced, then mix with it 2 pints of Spanish
sauce, and reduce again. Prepare a rice socle on a dish,
lay the Pike on it, put the ragofit over it, and pour round
Fike — continued.
some of the sauce. Garnish with large Pike forcemeat
quenelles, carp roes, mushrooms, and crayfish, all previously
cooked as for garnish. Stick some mushrooms, crayfish,
and carp roes on four silver skewers, fix them in the fish
(see Fig. 241), and serve with a sauceboatful of the same
sauce.
Pike a la Clemont. — Scale and clean a Pike, cut it into
pieces, and put them in a deep tin with some chopped
onions, parsley, lemon-juice, and olive oil, and let it soak
for half-an-hour. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the pieces of
fish, stand the tin on a slow fire and boil it, basting
frequently with the oil. When cooked, put the fish on a
hot dish, garnish with stewed carp’s roe, and serve with
a sauceboatful of maitre-d’hotel sauce.
Pike a la Financiere. — Clean a Pike, skin it, wrap it in
buttered paper, and boil in mirepoix and French wine,
mixed in equal quantities. Make a ragofit of Pike force-
meat quenelles, mushrooms, crayfish-tails, and truffles,
mixed in financiere sauce, prepared as for fish. Put a rice
socle on a hot dish, drain and glaze the Pike, and put it
on the socle ; pile the ragoftt round it, in such a way that
it hides the socle. Garnish round with truffles, mushrooms,
and crayfish. Garnish four silver skewers with crayfish,
mushrooms, and fried smelts, stick them in the fish, and
serve with a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
Pike a la Genevaise. — Scale and clean a Pike, boil it in
highly-seasoned fish stock, and while cooking prepare
the following sauce : Make a roux with flour and butter,
mix with it some fish stock, chopped onions, mushrooms,
and parsley, adding a small quantity of wine if liked.
Stir it over the fire, then put in 1 dessert-spoonful of
essence of anchovies, and the strained juice of half a
lemon. Put the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over,
and serve. Or this may be served with Dutch sauce.
Pike a la Genoise. — (1) Clean and scale a Pike, and put
it in a baking-pan without splitting it open, but scored
across where the portions are to be taken off. Put in
with it a carrot, a piece of turnip, onion, and a stalk of
celery, all cut in small pieces, a slice of fat salt pork, one
bay-leaf, pepper, salt, and 1 pint of stock. Bake the fish
for three-quarters-of-an-hour or more according to the size,
and baste it frequently. Put the Pike, when cooked and
nicely browned, on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the cooking
liquor, and pour in with it another pint of stock, 1 table-
spoonful of tomato ketchup, and 1 teacupful of wine.
Boil the sauce till reduced, thicken it slightly with flour,
then strain it over the fish, and serve.
Fike with Aspic Jelly. — Thoroughly clean a Pike, stuff
it with some rather stiff fish forcemeat, sew it up, wrap
it in a cloth, and boil it in court bouillon and white wine.
When cooked, leave the fish in its cooking-liquor till
cold, then take it out, remove the cloth, put it, belly
downwards, on the drainer of the fisli-kettle, and leave it
for some tune to make sure of its being thoroughly drained.
Trim the skin off the thickest part of its body, cut the
flesh into slices, which put back again in shape, then
glaze the fish with aspic jelly. Put the Pike on to an
oval dish, propping it up on both sides with pieces of
bread ; surround it first with aspic jelly, then with halves
of hard-boiled d^gs and small crofitons of aspic jelly,
arranged alternately. Garnish four attelette skewers, each
with one truffle and one quenelle, and one with a truffle
and two crayfish, one of which should be smaller than the
other, and placed next the truffle. Stick the crayfish
skewer in the middle of the Pike’s back, and place the
others two on each side. The dish containing the fish
should be placed on an ornamented stand.
Pike Cheese (Pain) with Crayfish. — Cut the fillets off a
Pike, remove the skin and bones, and put the flesh in a
mortar with half its quantity of butter, a part of which
should be mixed with crayfish butter. Pound it and
season with pepper and salt, pass it through a fine hair
sieve, and work it for a few minutes in a basin. Stir in
slowly the whipped white of one egg and double the
quantity of whipped cream. Butter a mould, fill it with
the forcemeat, and poach it in the bain-marie. When
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, <Ssc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
189
Pike — continued.
cooked, turn the pain on to a hot dish, pour over it some
reduced bechamel sauce, that has been coloured with cray-
fish butter and mixed with a few cut crayfish-tails, and
serve the pain with a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
Pike Cheese (Pain) with Truffles. — Prepare a quenelle
forcemeat with ljlb. of Pike flesh, Jib. of ground rice
panada, 14oz. of butter, and the yolks of four or five eggs.
Thickly butter a cylinder-mould and garnish the sides
with some peeled and cooked truffles, fill it with the
forcemeat, and poach it in the bain-marie. In three-
quarters-of-an-liour take the mould out of the bain-marie,
turn the contents out on a dish, with a fried bread
support in the centre, and pour some fish sauce that has been
reduced with trimmings of truffles in the dish ; garnish a
silver skewer with shrimps, stick it in the bread, and
serve with a sauceboatful of the same sauce.
Pike Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. — Mix with lib. of raw
Pike flesh Jib. of butter, and chop and pound them to-
gether. Season the mixture, and mix with it the beaten
yolks of two eggs, and a little more than J teacupful of
stiffly-reduced bechamel sauce. Shape the forcemeat into
cutlets on a floured table, egg-and-breadcrumb them, and
fry them till nicely browned on both sides in clarified
butter. Put them on a hot dish, pour tomato sauce over,
and serve.
Pike Forcemeat. — Cut off the fillets of a cold boiled Pike,
rub them through a fine hair sieve, weigh them, and to
every pound of fish add lOoz. of bread panada and lOoz. of
butter ; mix well, season with salt and pepper, stir in two
beaten eggs, and moisten with reduced veloutd sauce
maigre, thickened with egg. When of the proper con-
sistency for forcemeat, it is ready for use.
Pike Forcemeat Cooked as a Whole Pish. — Select a rather
large Pike, remove the gills, and chop the end off the tail ;
cut off the flesh of the fish, leaving only a small quantity
on the backbone, but with the head and tail still attached
to it. Finely mince the flesh of the Pike with an equal
quantity of flesh off another one. Put a finely-chopped
onion in a stewpan with a good-sized lump of butter, and
stir it over the fire till cooked, but without browning it ;
mix the onion and butter with the fish, also 1 breakfast-
cupful of grated breadcrumbs, and season the mixture
with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg.
Mix in sufficient beaten egg to bind the whole to a stiff
paste. Thickly butter a baking-dish, lay in the skeleton
of the fish, and cover it with the forcemeat, smoothing it
over to the shape of the fish with the blade of a knife.
Brush it over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg,
cover with grated breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese, and
moisten with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of warmed butter.
Fasten a piece of paper round the head and tail of the fish,
Fig. 242. Pike Forcemeat Cooked as a Whole Fish.
put it into a moderate oven, and bake. When the fish is
cooked, place it carefully on a table-napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper on a hot dish (see Fig. 242), and serve with a
sauceboatful of any kind of fish sauce and parsley garnish.
Pike Soup. — Cut 21b. of Pike into small pieces, removing
all the skin and bones. Put 4oz. of well-washed rice in a
large saucepan with plenty of water and a lump of salt,
and boil it until very soft. Place the fish in a frying-pan
with plenty of butter, and toss it about over the fire until
cooked. Next chop the fish finely, put it in a mortar
Pike — continued.
with the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and pound them
until smooth. Stir the pounded mixture in with the rice,
add as much more water as will be required to make the
soup, season to taste with salt and pepper, and pass the
whole through a fine hair sieve. Put in a couple of
ounces of butter broken into small pieces, and boil the
soup up. When ready, pour the soup into a soup-tureen,
and serve it with sippets of toast or small croiitons of
bread that have been fried a delicate brown in butter.
Any other flavouring liked may be added to the soup.
Potted Pike. — Having cleaned and scalded the fish, cut off
the head, split it down the back, and take out the bone.
Season the inside with bay-salt and pepper, roll it up
tightly, put it in a baking-tin with butter, cover it, and
bake for one hour. When cooked, take it out, drain, and
leave it till cold. Put the Pike in a jar, cover it with
clarified butter, and tie the jar over with paper.
Quenelles of Pike and Mushrooms. — Mix with 41b. of
chopped and pounded Pike-flesh 2Jlb. of bread panada
and Jib. of fresh butter ; season them, and pound all to-
gether, adding gradually, one at a time, the yolks of three
eggs. Pass the forcemeat through a fine hair sieve into a
kitchen basin, smooth it, and try a little piece in boiling
water. Mould the forcemeat into quenelles with 2 table-
spoons, put them side by side in a flat buttered stew-
pan, and poach them in boiling salted water. Turn
eighteen or twenty button mushrooms, and cook them in
lemon- juice and butter. With the bones and trimmings
of the Pike, trimmings of mushrooms, chopped vegetables,
and some Avhite wine prepare a fish gravy ; strain the
gravy, skim the fat off, and stir in gradually with it 3 tea-
cupfuls of reduced white sauce and the liquor of the mush-
rooms. Thicken the sauce Avith the yolks of two or three
eggs, and strain it through a fine silk sieve; stir it over
the fire again, and mix with it 4 table-spoonfuls of butter,
but do not let it boil. Arrange the quenelles in a circle
on a hot dish, put the mushrooms in the centre, pour a
little of the sauce over, and serve with the remainder in
a sauceboat.
Rissoles of Pike. — Prepare a little Pike quenelle forcemeat.
Roll out some short-paste that has been prepared with lib.
of flour and lOoz. of butter, and cut some rounds out of
it with a fluted tin-cutter, 2in. in diameter. Put on the
Fig. 243. Rissoles of Pike.
centre of each flat of paste a little ball of the forcemeat;
damp the edges of the flats, and fold them in such a
manner that the forcemeat is completely enclosed. Dip the
rissoles in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them in
clarified butter over a slow fire. When cooked, put the
rissoles on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-cover on a
hot dish, garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 243), and serve.
Roasted Pike. — (1) Peel 1 pint of shrimps, chop them, and
mix with them one onion and one sprig of parsley, both
chopped, and some breadcrumbs; season to taste with salt,
pepper, and spices, and mix all well together with Jib. of
butter. Clean the Pike, stuff it with the mixture, and
spread some over the outside. Put the Pike in a cradle-
spit and roast it in front of a clear fire, basting fre-
quently with butter. When cooked (it will take "about
lialf-an-hour), put the fish on a folded napkin or orna-
mental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish round with parsley,
and serve.
(2) The fish should be perfectly fresh when used ; draw
out the inside through the gills, chop the liver as
finely as possible, mix with it lib. of butter, a few chopped
pickled oysters and boned and chopped anchovies, powdered
sweet herbs, parsley, mace, and salt to taste. Stuff the
fish with the mixture, sew it up carefully to keep in the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces , &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
190
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fike — continued.
stuffing, pass the spit through the mouth and tail, and
fix it in front of a clear but not too brisk fire. Baste it
continually with claret and butter, with a small quantity
of anchovy paste mixed with it. When cooked, lay the
fish on the dish on which it is to be served, and cut the
thread that it is trussed with, when the sauce inside will
run out. Mix a small piece more butter with the drippings
in the pan and the strained juice of four oranges, boil it up,
stirring well, and pour it over the fish. Serve without
delay.
Roasted Stuffed Fike. — The Pike should be kept for two
days after it has been caught. Scale, draw, and lard
it with fillets of anchovies and gherkins. Prepare a
stuffing for the fish in the following way: Put a well-
cooked omelet in a mortar ivith the yolks of three hard-
boiled eggs, some bread panada, and a lump of butter ;
pound them all well together, stir in sufficient well-
whipped whites and yolks of eggs to make it the proper
consistency, and stuff the Pike with it. Spread some sprigs
of sweet herbs on a sheet of buttered paper, sprinkle some
mixed spice and salt over them, and wrap the Pike up in
it; fasten it together with skewers, and roast in front of
a clear fire, basting occasionally with white wine and
warmed butter. When cooked, unwrap the Pike, put it on
a hot dish, garnish with sprigs of fresh parsley, and serve
with a sauceboatful of thick piquante sauce.
Soused Fike. — Do not scale the fish, but draw it, save its
liver, and thoroughly wash it. Put a sufficient quantity of
water in a fish-kettle to just cover the fish, with a quarter
the quantity of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, and
spices to taste. When the liquor boils, add a dash of
vinegar, put in the fish, and boil it. When cooked, take
the fish out of the kettle and lay it in a pie-dish; mix
with the liquor in moderate quantities some bruised ginger
and white pepper, boil it up again, then move it from the
fire. When cold, pour the liquor over the fish, and leave
it in a cold larder for three or four days. Serve the fish
with chopped fennel and vinegar.
Stewed Fike. — (1) The famous Soyer is accredited with the
following receipt, given under a rather more elaborate title :
Scale and clean a Pike, and truss it with its tail in its
mouth. Put it in a stewpan with two onions, two turnips,
one carrot, one head of celery, and one leek, all chopped ;
add a bunch of parsley and thyme and three or four bay-
leaves. Pour in 3 pints of broth, put the lid on the stew-
pan, with some live embers on the top, and let the con-
tents stew gently by the side of the fire till the fish is
cooked, which can be easily ascertained by running a
knife close into the backbone ; if done the meat will
detach easily. Drain the Pike and dry it with a cloth,
brush it over with beaten egg, and dredge plenty of bread-
crumb over. Place the fisli in the oven and brown it
nicely. Put 2J breakfast-cupfuls of white sauce in a
stewpan with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of milk, boil it for five
minutes, then add the whites of four hard-boiled eggs,
four gherkins, and two truffles, all cut into small squares.
When ready, stir in with these ingredients 2 table-spoon-
fuls of essence of anchovy, the strained juice of half a lemon,
and 4oz. of butter. Stir it over the fire till the butter has
dissolved. Put the fish on a hot dish without a napkin,
pour the sauce over, and serve.
(2) Clean a Pike, cut it across in slices, flour and season
them with pepper and salt, put them in a frying-pan,
and fry lightly in oil. Fry a chopped onion with a little
oil in a stewpan, then add a bunch of mint and 1 pint of
light tomato sauce. Boil it, put in the pieces of fish,
move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let the con-
tents simmer for twenty minutes. Take the bunch of
mint out, put the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over,
and serve.
(3) Polish. — Skin and clean the Pike and cut it into
thick pieces. Blanch in salted water three or four carrots,
a stick or two of celery, and some parsley roots, then
mince them. Fry a finely-chopped onion with butter in
a stewpan, and when nicely browned put in the pieces of
fish ; season with salt and pepper, and fry them for ten
minutes. Cover the fish with white wine, and when boil-
Pike — continued.
ing put in the minced vegetables, and let it continue
boiling till the sauce is reduced to half its original quantity.
Thicken the sauce with kneaded butter, mix with it two
handfuls of minced nouilles that have been boiled in
salted water, and let it boil five minutes longer. Take the
pieces of fish out with a skimmer, put them on a hot
dish, without the head ; put a piece of butter and a little
chopped parsley in the sauce, pour it over the fish, and
serve.
Stewed Fike with Agro-Dolce Sauce. — Clean a Pike, cut
it up into pieces, and soak them in a basin of salted water
for one hour. Rinse the pieces of Pike in clean water, dry
them on a cloth, dredge flour over them, and put them
side by side in a buttered stewpan; put in with them a
bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, 2 table-spoonfuls of red-
currant jelly, 1 teacupful of stoned raisins, five or six
peeled and chopped almonds, 1 pinch of pepper, and vinegar
to three-parts the height of the fish. When boiling, move
the stewpan to the side of the fire, close the lid tightly,
put some hot cinders on, and let the contents simmer for
one hour. When cooked, put the fish on a hot dish ;
strain the liquor to make a sauce, colour it with a few
drops of caramel, and pour it over the fish. Put at each
end a bunch of scraped horseradish, and serve.
Stewed Pike with Butter Sauce. — Draw and clean a
Pike, cut off the fins, nib it well with salt, and baste
with a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in a stewpan witli
an onion, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf tied together,
and a few peppercorns. Moisten to height with three parts
stock that has been freed of all fat, two parts wine, and
one part vinegar, season to taste with salt, and boil it
gently until tender. When the fish is cooked, strain off
a sufficient quantity of its cooking-liquor into a small
stewpan to make the sauce, put in with it 4oz. of butter
in small pieces, 4 teacupful of milk, and a small quantity
of grated nutmeg, and boil it up. Beat the yolks of three
eggs with 3 table-spoonfuls of cream, and strain them.
Move the sauce to the side of the fire and stir in the
beaten eggs. Lay the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce
over, and serve.
Stewed Fike for Lent (German Style). — Thoroughly
clean and scale a Pike, and let it steep in salted water
for an hour or two. Rub a stewpan over with a clove of
garlic, and put in it a good-sized lump of butter, two or
three slices of lemon, 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley,
salt and pepper to taste, and a few cloves. Toss the whole
over the fire for a few minutes, then pour in J pint of
water, 1 wineglassful of red wine, and 2 table-spoonfuls of
vinegar. Cut the fish into convenient-sized pieces, put
them in with the above ingredients, place the lid on the
stewpan, and keep the contents boiling gently for about
lialf-an-hour. When cooked, lay the fish on a hot dish,
and mix with the sauce the yolks of three eggs that have
been beaten with 3 or 4 table-spoonfuls of cream, also
some finely-grated breadcrumbs. Stir it over the fire until
thickened and boiling, then put in a lump of butter, pour
it over the fish, and serve quickly.
PIKELETS. — The origin of this word is doubtful.
It does not seem to have any particular signification, but
to be a provincial name for thin muffins or cakes pre-
pared as follows :
Mix in a basin Jib. of sifted flour with 1 large table-
spoonful of bran, 1 saltspoonful of sugar, and J saltspoon-
ful of salt; add just sufficient warm milk to form the
whole into a stiff dough, cover the basin with a cloth, and
leave it in a warm temperature. On the following morn-
ing knead the dough again, mixing with it a little more
flour if it is not stiff enough, and mould it into small
round cakes. Butter some baking-sheets, arrange the cakes
on them, leaving a space between each, and bake them in
a quick oven. When cooked through and lightly browned,
split the Pikelets open and butter them. Arrange them
on a napkin on a hot dish, and serve.
PILAU. — This is a strictly Oriental dish, not suffi-
ciently esteemed by Europeans. It is sometimes called
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, ice., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
191
Pilau — continued.
Pillau, Pilaf, Pellow, Pooloo, &c., according to the fancy
of the writer. Several receipts will be found under various
headings, the following being very fair types of all :
English Pilau. — Bone a loin of mutton, trim off all the
sinewy pieces of fat and skin, and cut the meat up into
pieces of an equal size. Put the bones in a stewpan with
a knuckle of veal, cover them with broth, place them over
the fire till boiling, then move it to the side, skim, and
keep it simmering ; season with a few sliced vegetables
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put the pieces of loin in a
stewpan with Jib. of raw ham, cut into small pieces, and
a lump of butter; toss them about over a quick fire till
nicely browned, then pour in h pint of broth, dust hi a
small quantity of salt and pepper, and boil till the broth
is reduced to a glaze. Pour a little more broth over the
meat, boil that also till reduced to a glaze, then pour in
some more, and continue thus till the mutton is tender,
seasoning it with 1 pinch of cayenne pepper. Put a
chopped onion in a saucepan with a little butter, fry it
till lightly browned, then put in 1 breakfast-cupful of well-
washed and dried rice, and toss it about for a few minutes
over the fire. Strain the broth from the bones, pour it
over the rice, and cook gently at the side of the fire
without stirring. When tender, the rice should be dry
and the grains left whole. Put 2oz. of butter in small
pieces into the rice and 3oz. of grated Parmesan cheese,
and stir lightly to mix it. Turn two-thirds of the rice
into a deep dish, make a hollow in the centre, in which
put the stewed meat ; place the remainder of the rice on
the top, level the surface with the blade of a knife, pour
a few -table-spoonfuls of melted butter over it, grate over
2oz. of Parmesan cheese, brown it lightly under the
salamander, and serve.
Xndian Pilau. — Throw 1 teacupful of rice into fast-boiling
water and let it boil for twenty minutes, then drain it
in a colander or a sieve. Stir in loz. of butter and a
seasoning of pepper and salt. Pile the rice on a hot dish,
garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and surround
it with onions fried till dry.
Persian Pilau. — Cut about 21b. of lean raw mutton, lamb,
or other meat into small pieces, put them in a saucepan
with 3oz. of butter, and fry till brown, taking care not to
burn them. Take the pieces of meat out of the saucepan
and place them on a dish. Peel and chop three onions,
put them into the saucepan with the butter that the meat
was fried in, and stir them about until browned. Put the
pieces of meat in with the onions, also a few table-spoon-
fuls of blanched pistachio kernels, 1 table-spoonful of well-
washed currants, h teaspoonful of mixed spice, and ljlb.
of rice that has been well washed ; pour in 3 pints of cold
water, and add a lump of salt. Place the lid on the pan,
solder round the edges with flour-and-water paste to keep
it air-tight, and boil the contents slowly at the side of
the fire until all the moisture is absorbed. When
cooked, turn the Pilau carefully on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Turkish Pilau. — Put 1 breakfast-c.upful of stewed and
strained tomatoes in a saucepan with l pint of broth, one
minced onion, and season well with pepper and salt.
When boiling, put 1 breakfast- cupful of well-washed rice
in, stir it lightly till the liquor is absorbed, then put in
1 teacupful of butter. Put the saucepan at the back of
the stove, and steam the contents for twenty minutes.
Remove the lid, stir the Pilau lightly, cover it with a
cloth, and let the steam escape; I breakfast- cupful of
chopped cooked meat can be added if liked. Serve the
Pilau as a vegetable without the meat, and as an entree
with it.
PILCHARDS.— The common name for the Pilchard
( Clupea pilchardus) is the gipsy herring. It is a fine fat
fish (see Fig. 244) and is very abundant on the Devonshire
and Cornwall coasts ; but may be found all over the Channel
even to the French coast, where it is known by the
name of sardine. Pilchards are generally salted or
preserved in oil in tins. Fresh Pilchards are in season
Pilchards — continued.
between July and Christmas, but are rarely found fresh
in our inland markets. The following receipts are well
known where Pilchards are plentiful; or they may be
cooked like herrings.
Pilchard Crodtons.— Open a tin of Pilchards, take the
fish carefully out, and lay them on a sieve to drain. When
all the oil possible has run off, skin the Pilchards and
separate the flesh from the bones ; chop the flesh, mix
with it plenty of anchovy sauce, and season well with
salt and pepper. Put a small piece of butter in with the
mixture, and work it until smooth with the broad flat
blade of a knife. Boil two or three eggs hard, put them
into cold water, and leave until cold ; then peel, and cut
them into slices. Cut some rounds of bread with a pastry-
cutter, about 2in. in diameter, and toast them; butter
them, spread some of the fish mixture over each, lay the
slices of hard-boiled eggs on the top, and put them into
an oven for a few minutes just to heat. Spread a folded
napkin on a fancy disli-paper over a hot dish, lay the
pieces of toast on it, garnish -with parsley that has been
fried, and serve.
Pilchard-and-Leek Pie.— The night before making this
pie, put four or five salted Pilchards in a bowl of cold
water, and let them soak all night. On the following
morning, clean them and trim off their tails and fins.
Trim off all the green from six leeks, cut the white
part into pieces, and scald them in boiling salted water.
Arrange the fish and leeks in layers in a pie-dish, season-
ing to taste between each layer; cover them with a good
crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Whenrtlie pie is
cooked, lift the cover and mix in J breakfast-cupful of
thick boiling cream ; replace the cover, stand the pie-dish
on a flat dish, and serve.
PIMENTO. — See Allspice.
PINE-APPLES ( Fr . Ananas; Ger. Ananase; Ital.
Ananassi; Sp. Pinas de Indias). — The Pine-apple is the
fruit of a tropical plant ( Ananas sativa ) with rigid foliage,
having sharp spines along the edges, and it has long been
acknowledged one of the most delicious fruits in exist-
ence. It is said to be a native of Brazil, and to have
been carried thence to the West, and afterwards to the
East Indies. The fruit is borne on a short stem which
rises in the centre of the plant and bears a scaly conical
spike, surmounted by a number of small spiny leaves
called the crown. This conical body, after flowering,
gradually enlarges until it becomes the fruit (see Fig. 245).
The Pine-apple is first mentioned in England as having
been presented to Oliver Cromwell, and afterwards it was
regarded as a delicacy by Charles II. Since then ex-
traordinary efforts have been made to cultivate the Pine
in this country, and with the greatest success, for Pine-
apples have been matured in pots, surpassing in
size and flavour those of foreign growth. The Provi-
dence Pine-apple is a common kind imported from
the Bahama Islands, and it may frequently be seen on
costermongers’ barrows, selling at very low prices.
Pine-apples can be used for many culinary purposes,
and those preserved in tins are nearly as good as the fresh
for confectionery.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
192
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fine-apples — continued.
Bavaroise of Fine-apple. — Peel the Pine, cut it into slices
Jin. in thickness, put them in a preserving- pan with Jib.
of loaf sugar, Joz. of isinglass, and \ teacupful of water.
Put the pan over a moderate fire, and stew the contents
till tender, keeping them well stirred. Ruh the Pine through
a fine hair sieve into a basin, stand it on ice, and keep it
stirred till on the point of setting, then mix in thoroughly
1 pint of well -whipped cream. Pour the bavaroise into a
mould, close it, and pack in pounded ice and salt. In
about two hours’ time, or more, dip the mould in tepid
water, wipe it, turn the bavaroise out on to a glass or
fancy dish, and serve.
Bottled Fine-apple. — Peel the rind smoothly and carefully
off some Pine apples, pick out all the discoloured parts,
and cut off the heads and stalks. Cut the Pines into
slices, and pack them closely in wide-mouthed bottles or
glass jars ; fill each one with some syrup boiled to the
26deg., cork them, and tie down. Put the bottles in a
saucepan of water, placing straw round them to prevent
them knocking together and breaking, and boil them
gently for twenty-five minutes. At the end of that time
take the saucepan off the fire, and leave the bottles in the
water till cold ; then dip their noses in bottle wax, and
store them away for use.
Candied Fine-apple Knots. — Peel and slice sufficient Pine-
apple vuth a fourth of the quantity of ribston pippins to
make lib. of pulp. Boil them in \ pint of water till
tender, then rub them through a cane sieve. Boil 14oz. of
sugar to the ball (see Sugar-boiling), then mix the pulp
with it, colour with a small quantity of saffron, and stir
it over the fire till reduced to a stiff pasts. Turn the
paste on to a baking-sheet, level it off with the blade of
a knife to about Jin. in thickness, then place it into a
moderately- heated screen, and dry for several hours. Pass
a knife between the paste and baking-sheet to detach it,
turn the paste over, and dry it for an hour longer. When
cold, cut the paste into narrow strips between 5in. and 6in.
in length, shape them into true-lover’s knots, or double
figures of eight, and place them on closely-latticed wire
trays. Dry the knots for about an hour in the screen,
then pack them away for use.
Fine-apples — continued.
Compote of Fine-apple. — Peel a Pine-apple and cut it
into slices about Jin. in thickness. Cut all the slices into
halves, with the exception of one of the middle ones,
which should be -left whole. Put them in a sugar-boiler,
with some syrup at 20deg., and let them simmer gently
at the side of the fire for an hour. Put the Pine-apple
into a basin, pour the syrup over, and let it steep for
twenty-four hours. At the end of that time, put the
slices on a wire drainer, strain the syrup through a silk
Fig. 246. Compote of Pine- apple.
sieve into a sugar-boiler, and boil till reduced to 32deg.
Arrange the half -slices of Pine -apple in the centre of a
compote dish, put the round slice on the top, pour the syrup
over (see Fig. 246), and serve.
Dried Fine-apple. — Peel and cut out any discoloured parts
of a Pine apple, cut them in slices Jin. thick, put them in
a preserving-pan with some syrup at 22deg., and let
them simmer for ten minutes. Put the Pine apple and
syrup in a white-lined pan, and leave them till the follow-
ing day. Strain the syrup off, boil it, skim, and pom- it
over the Pine-apple again. Proceed in the same way the
two following days. On the fourth day take the slices
of Pine-apple out of the syrup, drain them well, and put
them, apart from each other, on wire trays. Stand the
trays on dishes to catch the drippings, and put them in
the screen. When dry, take them out of the screen, and
when cold, pack the slices of Pine apple in boxes between
sheets of white paper.
Fine-apple Brandy. — Take a good-sized ripe Pine-apple,
cut off the crown, pare off the rind, and cut out the
eyes. The rind will do to make Pine apple Cider. Cut
the Pine apple into slices about Jin. thick, weigh it, and
take the same weight of powdered white sugar. Put a
layer of the sugar at the bottom of a large glass jar,
then a slice of Pine-apple on top of this, a layer of sugar,
then Pine-apple, and so on, finishing with a layer of sugar,
and pour into the jar enough brandy to stand lin. above
the Pine apple. Close the jar so that it is quite air-tight,
and keep in a cool dark place for at least a month.
Serve the Pine apple at dessert. Three-parts of a wineglassful
of the brandy put into a tumbler and filled up with seltzer or
soda water makes a nice summer drink.
Fine-apple Cake. — (1) Mix 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar
and 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in 34 breakfast-
cupfuls of flour ; then mb in the flour Jib. of butter.
When quite smooth, work in five eggs, beaten separately,
and 1 teacupful of milk. Pour the mixture in jelly cake-
tins, 4in. or 5in. deep, and bake it. Mix some tartaric acid
and Pine apple juice with icing, and when the cake is
done, spread it thickly over the top and put a thick
layer of grated Pine apple over.
(2) Have ready two cake moulds. Peel a small Pine-
apple and grate it. Beat Jib. of butter to a cream with
lib. of powdered sugar; add the yolks of twelve eggs to
it, also the grated Pine-apple. Sift a teaspoonful of salt
and 2 piled teaspoonfuls of baking-powder with lib. of
flour, and quickly heat them into the cake batter. Put
the hatter at once into the moulds, and bake the cakes
in a moderate oven for about three-quarters-of-an-hour, or
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